Mission Furniture Volume II Part 2

With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives the thicknesses and widths exact. To the length, however, enough has been added to allow squaring up the ends.

Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this.

Front posts, 2 pieces, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 26 in., S-4-S.

Back posts, 1 piece, 1-5/8 by 8 by 45 in., S-2-S.

Front horizontals, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Rear horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/4 in., S-4-S.

Side horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Back slats, 2 pieces, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.

Arms, 2 pieces, 1-1/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-4-S.

Seat slats, 5 pieces, 1/2 by 2-1/4 by 20 in., S-4-S.

Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall not splinter through usage. Next lay out the mortises and tenons.

The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed as described on another page. The curved form to which the steamed piece is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to straighten a little.

The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the forms. The rails of the front and back may be tenoned, too. It should be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying out the shoulders of the tenons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Curved Back Arm Chair]

a.s.semble the back, then the front. When the glue has hardened on these parts so that the clamps may be removed, put in the side rails or horizontals and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be fastened to the posts with dowels and glue.

The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather cus.h.i.+on to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back seat rails or they may be "let in" to these rails by grooving their inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place. The latter method is more workmanlike, but more difficult.

A cus.h.i.+on such as is shown can be purchased ready made up, or it may be made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather thong. It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers use.

Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put on a very thin coat of sh.e.l.lac. Sand this lightly and follow with two or more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well.

A PLATE RACK

The plate rack shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration is designed for use in a room furnished in mission style. The dimensions may be changed to suit the wall s.p.a.ce. The parts are held together entirely by keys.

The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall.

The following list of material will be needed, and, if the builder does not care to do the rough work, the stock can be ordered planed, sanded and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given.

2 ends, 7/8 by 5 by 20 in.

1 top, 7/8 by 6 by 36 in.

1 shelf, 7/8 by 5 by 36 in.

1 bar, 7/8 in. square by 36 in.

4 keys. Sc.r.a.p pieces will do.

Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the shelf, also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings.

In laying these out, work from the back edge of the pieces. Cut the tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces, numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive the tenons on the end pieces.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Parts Held Together by Keys]

In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when the keys are driven in the mortises. All the mortises and diamond shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides of the board.

If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as shown.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Plate Rack]

Finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain. When thoroughly dry, apply a very thin coat of sh.e.l.lac. Finish with two coats of wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates fastened on the back edges of the end pieces.

TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES

On some work it is quite difficult to locate the exact point for a dowel, but with the tool ill.u.s.trated placed between the joint to be made and the parts gently pressed together you have the exact point for the dowel in each piece. The tool is made from a piece of sheet steel about 1/2 in. square with a pin having a point on both ends driven in the center, as shown in Fig. 1. The tool is placed between the pieces that are to be joined, as shown in Fig. 2. The small pin will mark the point for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Marking Bore Holes for Dowels]

A MAGAZINE TABLE

This little magazine table will be found a very useful piece of furniture for the den or library. Its small size permits it to be set anywhere in a room without being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be used in its construction, and the following pieces will be needed:

4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in., S-4-S.

4 end slats, 1/2 by 2 by 10 in., S-4-S.

1 shelf, 1 by 16 by 30 in., S-1-S.

1 top board, 1 by 18 by 36 in., S-1-S.

If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces ready cut to length, squared and sanded. This will save you considerable labor.

The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to prevent the corners from splitting. The mortises for the shelf should be cut 9 in. from the top of each leg, as shown in the sketch. Care should be taken to make these a perfect fit.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Table Complete]

The shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges, and the corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs. An enlarged view of this joint is shown in the sketch.

The top board may have to be made of two 9-in. boards, dove-tailed and glued together. It should be finished on the top side and the edges. The edges can be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs by means of screws through four small bra.s.s angles. These angles can be made or they can be purchased at any hardware store.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Magazine Table]

The top board and the shelf should be mortised at each end for the 1/2 by 2-in. slats. These slats should be finished on all sides.

The table is now ready to be a.s.sembled and glued together. The glue should dry at least 24 hours before the clamps are removed.