Mission Furniture Volume III Part 3

[Ill.u.s.tration: Book Trough Complete]

The two end pieces should be made first with the top corners rounded off and the lower end, which is of simple design, can be cut out with a bracket saw and smoothed with a wood rasp. The mortises should then be laid out according to the sketch and cut, by first boring 3/4-in. holes and finis.h.i.+ng with a chisel, being careful to keep all edges clean and free from slivers.

The shelf can now be made by cutting a double-key tenon at each end to fit the end pieces. The s.p.a.ce between the two tenons at each end can be cut out with a bracket saw and finished with a rasp. The key holes should be mortised as shown in the sketch. The trough pieces are made in a similar manner, care being taken to have all tenons and mortises perfectly square and a good fit, so the trough when a.s.sembled will have a neat and workmanlike appearance. The trough can be finished in any one of the many mission finishes which are supplied by the trade for this purpose.

AN OAK SERVING TABLE

The serving table is another useful piece of furniture that can be made in mission style. This table should be made in quarter-sawed oak and stained very light. The stock order is as follows:

2 posts, 2 by 2 by 37 in., S-4-S.

2 posts, 2 by 2 by 31 in., S-4-S.

1 top, 1 by 21 by 40 in., S-2-S.

2 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.

4 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 15-1/2 in., S-2-S.

1 back panel, 3/4 by 4 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.

1 stretcher, 1 by 5 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.

1 slat, 1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Serving Table Complete]

The four posts are ordered 1 in. longer than necessary for squaring to length and the two back posts should be chamfered 1/4 in. on top, as they are the longest and project above the back panel. All of the posts are cut tapering for a s.p.a.ce of 4 in. from the bottom ends. Mortises in the posts and tenons on the rails are laid out and cut as shown by the dimensions in the drawing. These parts are then well glued and put together. The top, which should be of well seasoned wood, is cut to fit around the back posts so the back edge and the back side of the posts are flush. The back panel is placed in mortises cut in the corners of the back posts. This is done so the back surface of the panel will be flush the same as the edge of the top. The slat is fastened with round-headed bra.s.s screws on the front of the two back posts about half way between the top and the ends of the posts.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Serving Table]

The top may be fastened to the rails by one of two methods. One way is to use a small b.u.t.ton made of wood and so mortised as to set in the rails and then fastened to the top with screws. About six of these b.u.t.tons will be sufficient to hold the top in place. The other method is to bore a hole slanting on the inside of the rails, directing the bit toward the top, which will make a seat--if not cut too deep--for a screw that can be turned direct into the top.

The glue must be removed from about the joints and the surfaces smoothed over with fine sandpaper before applying the stain. The directions for staining will be found on the can in which it is sold. The grain of the wood will show up well if the surface is given a dull waxed finish after staining.

AN UMBRELLA STAND

[Ill.u.s.tration]

The umbrella stand shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration will be found quite appropriate for the hall or reception room that is furnished in mission style. It can be made of any of the furniture woods, but quarter-sawed oak gives the best results. The stock necessary to make this stand can be secured from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded, and is given in the following list:

4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in., S-4-S.

4 top rails, 7/8 by 2 by 10 in., S-2-S.

4 lower rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-2-S.

4 slats, 3/8 by 3 by 20 in., S-2-S.

1 bottom, 7/8 by 10 by 10 in.

First square up the posts and bevel the tops as shown in the detail sketch. Place them side by side, on a flat surface with the ends square and lay out the mortises with a try-square on all four pieces at the same time. This will insure your getting them all straight and of the same height. Now lay out the tenons on the rails in the same manner and cut them to fit the mortises in the posts. Mortises should also be cut in the rails for the ends of the side slats as shown. Try all the joints and see that they fit tight and square. Glue two sides of the stand together and let them dry for at least 24 hours, then glue the remaining parts, being careful to get everything together perfectly square.

The bottom board can now be fitted in place. It should have a hole cut in it for the drip pan. The pan should be about 6 or 7 in. in diameter.

One suitable for the purpose can be purchased in any hardware store. The bottom board can be fastened to the rails with nails driven from the under side, or cleats can be nailed to the rails for it to rest upon.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

When the stand is complete, sc.r.a.pe all glue from about the joints and go over the whole with fine sandpaper, removing all rough spots. Apply the finish you like best, or the one that will match your other furniture.

Should the builder want an entire hand-made stand, the drip pan may be beaten into shape from sheet bra.s.s or copper. This kind of work is known as repousse. After beating the pan into shape, it can be finished in antique, old copper or given a polished surface, as desired.

A CHAFING-DISH BUFFET

The chafing-dish buffet is something very convenient and attractive for the dining room. For the best effect it should be made of quartered oak, stained brown or weathered and trimmed with bra.s.s hardware.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Buffet in Quartered Oak]

To save a great deal of uninteresting labor, secure the following pieces of stock, surfaced on four sides and cut to length:

4 legs, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., S-4-S.

4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 10 in., S-4-S.

2 rails, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.

2 panels, 3/8 by 9-3/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.

1 panel, 3/8 by 6-1/2 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.

2 shelves, 7/8 by 12 by 19 in., S-4-S.

1 top, 7/8 by 16 by 20 in., S-4-S.

2 stiles for door, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.

2 rails for door, 7/8 by 3 by 10 in., S-4-S.

1 back, 7/8 by 12 by 13 in., S-4-S.

8 slats, 3/8 by 1 by 8 in., S-4-S.

Begin the work on the rails for the sides of the stand. Have them all squared up to exactly the same length and to the correct width and thickness. Mark the tenons on the ends of each and cut them with a saw and chisel.

When this is finished, try the legs to see that they are all the same length and that their surfaces are square with each other. Next mark the mortises in the legs for the tenons of the rails. To make the mortises, first bore to depth with a bit 1/8 in, smaller than the width of the mortise and cut to the line with a chisel.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Method of Fastening with Screws]

Before gluing up the sides, cut the mortises in two lower rails for the tenons on the ends of the shelves. These tenons, with the smaller mortises in them for the keys, should be cut first. Square up the two side panels and cut grooves 3/8 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep for them in the rails and part of the legs.

Make the eight slats 8 in. long, 1 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, and cut mortises for them in the two upper rails.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Chafing-Dish Buffet]

The two sides of the buffet are now ready to be glued up and clamped.

While the glue on these is setting, make the door. The rails are mortised into the stiles 1/2 in. and both are grooved to receive the panel. It is best to get the stock a little full for the door so that it may be made up a little larger than necessary and planed down to fit.

There only remains to fit in the shelves and fasten the top and back.