Mission Furniture Volume III Part 11

30 small copper washers, 3/8 or 7/16 in. outside diameter and drilled 3/16 in.

4 bra.s.s corners, 1-3/8 in, deep.

2-1/2 doz. No. 5 oval head bra.s.s screws, 3/4 in. long.

4 No. 2, 7/8-in. rubber screw tips.

1 piece felt, 1 yd. square.

1 sheet wadding, 1 yd. square (if pad is wanted under felt).

1 pt. wood stain.

3 doz. No. 14 wire beads, 2 in. long.

Some 2-oz., 4-oz., and 6-oz. flat-head tacks.

Begin by squaring up the four legs making them all 24-3/4 in. long and 1 in. square. Also square up the crosspieces marked B in the detail drawing. These should be 5 in. long and should have 1/4-in. holes about 1 in. deep drilled in both ends of each for the 1/4-in. oak swivel pins.

Measure back 1-1/2 in. from one end of each and bore a 9/16-in. hole, 7/8 in. deep as shown. Now cut a tenon on one end of each leg, 3/4 in.

long, that will fit tightly in this 9/16-in. hole. Round the corners of the piece B at the top as shown at C. Fasten the two pieces together with glue and brads, being careful to get them square with each other.

After the glue is set bore a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the leg, 7 in. from the edge of the crosspiece, for the brace rod. Bevel the corners as shown. Sandpaper them smooth, then stain and polish.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Card Table]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Card Table Ready for Use]

Lay the two pieces marked D and E in the sketch on a level surface with the 7/8-in. edge up, place the cardboard on top and tack it fast to the pieces, using 6-oz. tacks. Place the center piece in and tack it fast also. Fasten the ends to the other pieces with brads. The four pieces of electric wire moulding should each measure exactly 27-1/2 in. long, or the same length as the center piece. Fit a piece of wood about 4 in.

long in the groove at each end of the moulding, plane down and fasten with brads. Next take the thin batten or covering strip that comes with the moulding and bore a 1/2-in. hole in the center, 6 in, from one end, and a 1/4-in. hole, 8-3/16 in. from the other end. With a gouge cut a slot 1/4 in. wide from one hole to the other in the center as shown in the section A-A. Sandpaper this slot smooth and then fasten the batten to the moulding with small brads driven in about 2 in. apart. At a point 3/4 in. from each end and in the center drill 1/4-in. holes through the moulding at the small ends of the slots. These are for the ends of the brace rods to spring into, to lock the legs when they are open. Tack the two pieces of moulding marked F and J on the remaining edges of the cardboard with the slots facing in and the large holes of the slots at opposite sides, then place the other two pieces (G and H) 5 in. inside of these, or just the length of the cross ends of the legs, with the slots facing the first two placed (F and J) and tack fast with 4-oz.

tacks. Use brads at the ends and be careful that they do not enter the 1/4-in. holes. This part of the table can now be stained or painted the same as the legs. The 3/8-in. side pieces can also be stained at this time.

The ends of the bra.s.s rods can be bent in a vise. One end should be 1 in. long and should be square with the stock. Measure 11-1/4 in. center to center and bend in opposite direction, leaving this end at a slight angle out from square. Just at this bend raise a burr with a sharp chisel to keep the washer on. Now place five of the copper washers on the 1-in. end and batter the end of the rod so they will not slip off.

They should be loose so that they will roll and slip on the brace. Slip a washer on the other end and put the end of the rod through the 3/16-in. hole in the leg from the short end side, place another washer on the rod, saw off and rivet down the end.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Legs Fold on the Under Side of Top]

To put the legs in the table, slip the end of one of the braces and the washers in the large hole in the slot, shove it up until the 1/4-in.

hole in the crosspiece and the one in the moulding meet, then drive an oak dowel or rod into each end. This is the hinge or pivot that the legs swing on. When the leg is extended the end of the brace rod should spring into the 1/4-in. hole in the moulding and lock the leg in place.

Rubber tips should be put on the bottom ends of the legs. Two wooden b.u.t.tons should be made and fastened to the cardboard as shown at K for locking the legs when they are closed.

The felt can now be put on the top of the table. Stretch it tightly and then tack the edges securely to the sides of the table. Now fasten on the 3/8-in. side pieces and the bra.s.s corners with the small bra.s.s screws as shown on the drawing, and the table is complete.

MAGAZINE STAND

If you do not possess the necessary tools for getting out the material used in this piece of furniture, it can be purchased from a mill already planed, sanded and cut to lengths given in the list. Any kind of wood can be used, but quarter-sawed red oak with a mission stain and waxed, gives the best appearance. The following pieces will be needed:

2 shelves, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in., S-2-S.

1 shelf, 3/8 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.

1 shelf, 3/8 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.

8 slats, 3/8 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.

2 slats, 1/4 by 1-1/8 by 38 in., S-4-S.

4 doz. 1 in. No. 9 round-head screws.

Take the four shelves and line them up with their backs and ends even and clamp them together firmly. Mark the places for the slats across the edges of the shelves, making the first line 1/2 in. from their ends. Use a square to get the lines at right angles to the surface. Another line is drawn 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. The ends of the shelves are marked in the same manner, beginning from the back edges and making the first line 1/2 in. from them, and then another line 1-1/8 in. from the first, or the width of the slat. Make a line across the ends, 1/2 in. from the front edge of the 8-in, shelves, and another line 1-1/8 in. back from the first one. This will leave 2-1/2 in. and 4-1/2 in. of s.p.a.ce respectively from the front edges of the 10-in. and 12-in. shelves. s.h.i.+ft the shelves so they will be even on the front edges and mark them the same as the back. Make a 1/4-in. depth mark on all edges between the lines and cut this material out. This can be done while the shelves are clamped together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Stand Complete]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Stand]

Place the shelves on end in their order and start by s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g on the back slats on both ends first, then screw on the two front slats. Turn the stand down and put on the two back slats. Attach the two front slats on the top shelf first. Then bore the places for the remaining holes and turn in the screws. This will bend the slats into place. The two remaining slats are screwed on the ends of the shelves without letting them in, making the s.p.a.ces equal. Mark each slat 1/2 in. below the bottom shelf and saw them off. The stand can be taken apart, sandpapered and stained.

A TABOURET

The stock necessary to make a tabouret of craftsman design as shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration can be purchased from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is also the easiest to secure. Order the following pieces:

4 legs, 1-1/2 in. square by 22 in. long.

1 top, 3/4 in. thick by 14 in. square.

4 top rails, 3/4 by 4 by 12 in.

4 lower rails, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in.

First square up the four legs. Bevel the tops at an angle of 30 deg. and hollow out the lower part of the legs as shown in the detail sketch.

Clamp them together with the ends square and lay out the mortises all at once. Cut the tenons on the rails to fit these mortises. Lay them out in the same manner as the posts so as to get them all the same distance between shoulders. The upper rails should be cut out underneath as shown.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Tabouret]

The rails and posts can now be glued together. Be careful to get them joined perfectly square. When they are dry cut and fit the top as shown.

This is fastened to the top rails by means of screws from the inside.

Remove all surplus glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is any glue. Go over the whole with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots, then apply the finish you like best.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Finished Tabouret]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Complete Porch Swing]

A PORCH SWING

The porch swing shown in the ill.u.s.tration can be made of southern pine at a very moderate cost. It should be suspended by rustless black chains and eyebolts pa.s.sing through the lower rails. If cus.h.i.+ons are desired they can be made up quite cheaply of elastic felt covered with denim cloth.

These pieces, dressed and sanded, may be bought at the mill:

2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 71 in., S-4-S.

1 rail, 1-3/4 by 3 by 65 in., S-4-S.

2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 25 in., S-4-S.

2 posts, 1-3/4 by 3 by 17 in., S-4-S.

2 rails, 1-3/4 by 3 by 22-1/2 in., S-2-S.

2 arm rests, 7/8 by 4 by 28 in., S-2-S.

5 slats, 3/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S.