The Perdue Chicken Cookbook Part 21

FILLO WRAPPED CHICKEN Deanna Doyel, a Californian, brought these to a pot luck at my house, and since they were far and away the most popular food at the party that night, I thought you might enjoy knowing about them. They're tender, flaky, delicious, and they look good. You might garnish the plate with some parsley or watercress. I've served them here to a gathering of 50 of the Perdue marketing men and women, but for variation, I cut the chicken into bite size pieces and wrapped them individually to form c.o.c.ktail-size morsels.

To make this successfully, be sure to keep the pastry sheets from drying out or they'll get brittle and impossible to fold. Work with only one sheet at a time and keep the others covered with a sheet of waxed paper and topped with a damp tea towel.

WRAPPED CHICKENServes 6 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup chopped scallions 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 3 cloves garlic, minced, divided 1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Pinch salt Pinch ground pepper 1 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 12 sheets fillo pastry (available in most quality supermarkets) 6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves Grated Parmesan cheese In a shallow dish combine mayonnaise, scallions, parsley, half of garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper. In a small saucepan over medium heat melt b.u.t.ter with remaining garlic. Brush one pastry sheet with melted garlic b.u.t.ter, top with second sheet and brush again. Dip chicken breast in mixed ingredients turning to coat thoroughly. Place chicken diagonally on one corner of pastry sheets, then roll while folding in sides to make a neat rectangular package. Brush top of wrapped chicken with b.u.t.ter and top lightly with Parmesan cheese. Preheat oven to 350oF. Place wrapped b.r.e.a.s.t.s in a baking dish and bake for about 35 minutes. They're a golden brown when done.

MUSHROOM SNAILS Serves 4 as an appetizer This is one of the very few recipes that I've developed on my own. In spite of its name, it doesn't contain snails.

I'd eaten escargot (snails) in France, and thought they were expensive and overrated, but loved the garlic b.u.t.ter and other seasonings. One day it occurred to me that those flavorings would be delicious with the mushrooms and chicken livers that I happened to have in the refrigerator.

I sat down and wrote what I thought would be right, and then made the recipe exactly according to the directions that I'd written. The verdict from guests was that these mushroom snails are a showstopper, especially if you by any chance have any of the escargot serving dishes with little indentations for each snail. Since I'm guessing that you probably don't, I've suggested in the recipe that you serve the mushroom "snails" on little rounds of sauteed French bread.

1/2 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, softened 2 cloves garlic, minced 4 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley 2 tablespoons snipped fresh or frozen chives 1/8 teaspoon salt or to taste 12 large mushroom caps 6 chicken livers, halved Preheat oven to 400oF. In a small bowl combine b.u.t.ter with garlic, parsley, chives and salt. Fill each mushroom cap with a half chicken liver. Then, top each mushroom cap with 1/12th of the b.u.t.ter mixture. Bake at until filling is melted, and bubbly, about 8 minutes. Serve on 1/2 inch thick slices of French bread which have been sauteed in b.u.t.ter until lightly browned.

OLD WORLD CORNISH HENS BAKED IN SALTServes 4 This is one of my personal favorites. When it's brought to the table, this dish looks so impressive that I can still remember the first time I saw it, which was more than ten years ago. When the hostess brought the platter with the four cornish hens, we couldn't be sure what we were getting. It looked like four chicken-shaped pieces of white pottery in the exact shape of cornish game hens, only a little larger. Our hostess explained that she had coated the cornish hens with a half-inch layer of salt, and then roasted the hens in this casing. To serve the hens, she took a small wooden mallet and gave each sh.e.l.l a sharp whap. Each time she did this, the sh.e.l.l would crack into several pieces, revealing the fragrant and beautifully- roasted game hen inside. I thought the hens would taste salty, but found instead some of the tenderest and most succulent chicken you could hope for.

8 garlic cloves, unpeeled 1 bunch fresh rosemary or thyme, divided 4 fresh Cornish game hens (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each) Ground pepper 4 18 x 18 inch squares heavy duty aluminum foil 2 boxes (48 ounces each) Kosher salt 2 1/2 to 3 cups water Preheat oven to 400oF. Place 2 garlic cloves and a sprig of rosemary in the cavity of each hen. Season with pepper.

Fold wings back and tie legs together. Place a hen on each sheet of foil. Fold in edges of foil to form a nest with sides 1 1/2 inches high. Leave a border of 1 1/2 inches between hen and foil. Remove hens from nests and reserve.

Place nests on heavy baking sheets. Fill each nest with a layer of salt, 1/2 inch thick. Return hens to nests. In a large bowl combine remaining salt with enough water to make a heavy paste. Use hands to mold salt around each hen enclosing it completely in a layer of salt approximately 1/2 inch thick. Bake hens for 40 to 50 minutes depending upon their size. To serve: With a sharp knife, carefully cut around the base of each hen following its shape. Use a spatula to gently lift salt covered hens out of nests and onto platter. Decorate platter with sprigs of rosemary. In front of your guests, crack salt casings with a mallet and dust off any remaining salt.

Garnish hens with sprigs of rosemary.

Note: If you want to try this recipe with a 3 1/2 pound chicken, proceed in the same manner as for the Cornish hens, using 1 box (48 ounces) kosher salt and 1 1/2 cups water. The cooking time would is approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes.

ORIENTAL COOK-OUT CHICKEN Serves 6-8 You need an outdoor grill with a rotisserie for this one. The sight of the whole chickens wrapped in orange peel spirals, turning on the spit is really impressive. Don't let your guests or family miss this part.

2 whole chickens 2 teaspoons salt or to taste 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper 1 cup frozen orange juice concentrate (undiluted) 4 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 2 tablespoons French salad dressing 3 teaspoons soy sauce 2 oranges Rub inside of chickens with salt and pepper. In a bowl combine orange juice, oil, salad dressing, and soy sauce; rub mixture on chickens, inside and out. Peel oranges, spiral fas.h.i.+on, keeping skins in one strip. Cut orange segments into small pieces and place inside of chickens.

Truss chickens securely with string. Place on outdoor grill rotisserie rod, securing with forked holders. Place spiral orange peels around chickens, holding in place with toothpicks. Broil on rotisserie about 1 hour or until juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced, basting constantly with sauce.

PERDUE A LA VERTICAL Serves 6-8 NOTE TO CONNIE; THERE'S A LINE DRAWING ILl.u.s.tRATION OF STUFFING THE BIRD IN THIS RECIPE AND ALSO ANOTHER DRAWING THAT ILl.u.s.tRATES CARVING. WE HAVE PERMISSION TO USE IT FROM SPANEK, AND THERE'S NO TRADE NAME ON IT.

One of the really fun things about being Mrs. Frank Perdue is that people are always giving me tips on cooking chicken. Recently I met a woman in an airport in Puerto Rico who told me that my life wasn't complete unless I tried cooking chicken on a vertical roaster. Not wanting an incomplete life, I took her advice and found that yes, vertical roasting really does have a lot going for it. The chicken cooks about 30% faster because the metal frame conducts heat and is in contact with the bird's interior.

The bird is also juicier. The heat of the vertical roaster forces the juices outward while the heat of the oven is forcing the juices inward. The juices have no where to go, so instead they just stay inside, tenderizing and flavoring the meat. Vertical roasters are available in major department stores as well as in quality gourmet cookware shops.

Denis Spanek, who patented the first vertical roster, says he's cooked at least 30,000 birds during demonstrations and tests, and this is his favorite recipe.

It's now one of my all-time personal favorites too, but I've felt leery about serving it to guests without knowing ahead of time that they liked bleu cheese. The last time I made it, though, I found a way around the problem. I stuffed one side of the roaster with the bleu cheese- mushroom mixture and omitted the bleu cheese from the stuffing for the other side. Then I gave our guests the choice of which side they'd like.

1 whole roaster 3 ounces crumbled bleu cheese 2 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 3/4 cup s.h.i.+ttake mushrooms, if not available, use whatever mushrooms are.

1 tablespoon dry white wine 1/4 teaspoon paprika Place roaster on its back and use your fingertips to break the skin membrane at the neck opening on each side of the breast. Work your fingers under the skin across both sides of the breast and continue along the thighs and legs. Be careful not to break the skin that's attached at the center of the breastbone. In a food processor fitter with steel blade, combine blue cheese, garlic, b.u.t.ter and mushrooms.

Process, pulsating on and off, until mushrooms are coa.r.s.ely chopped and mixture just holds together.

Then, spoon the stuffing under the skin, working over the breast, thigh, and leg areas, smoothing it evenly over each side of the bird. When the bird is stuffed, gently press it onto the vertical roaster so the metal ring at the top comes through. Set the roaster in an 8-9 inch cake pan and add 1/2 cup water to the roasting pan. Baste with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of dry white wine with paprika. This will give a rosy color to the bird and the chicken will brown beautifully. Sear for 15 minutes in a preheated 450 degree oven. Lower temperature to 350 degrees and cook for 15 to 18 minutes per pound Food Tip: Carve the bird over rice so the rice catches the drippings.

PHOTO: Black & white - chicken platter w/mozzarella strips placed in lattice pattern over breast. On ceramic counter w/napkins, forks, cups & saucers, breads, etc.

ROASTER MARINARAServes 6 Frank is particularly fond of any recipe with tomatoes, and usually we've found that in restaurants that if you see a menu item that's "marinara," whatever-it-is is going to be served with a tomato-based sauce. However, according to the New York Times food writer, Craig Claiborne, marinara really means "marine style" or sailor style and marinara sauces exist without tomatoes. In this recipe, the sauce is tomato based. I'm fond of this recipe because it looks so good. Be sure and notice the ill.u.s.tration.

1 whole roaster 3/4 teaspoon minced fresh basil or 1/2 teaspoon dried Salt and ground pepper to taste 1-1/2 cups homemade or prepared marinara sauce (available in supermarkets) 1 package (6-ounces) sliced mozzarella cheese Preheat oven to 350F. Remove giblets from roaster.

Season with basil, salt and pepper. Place bird, breast side up, in roasting pan. Brush marinara sauce over roaster 30 minutes before end of cooking time. Cut mozzarella cheese into long strips 1/2-inch wide and place in lattice pattern over breast during final 10 minutes of cooking.

PHOTO: STUFFED CHICKEN STUFFED CHICKEN JARDINIEREServes 6 I don't know of many presentations that are more impressive than this. That's the good part. The price for all this impressiveness is that it's also one of the more time- consuming recipes in this book. While it's true that there is a fair amount of preparation required, the work is done in advance and not at the last minute. This recipe allows you to surprise your guests with a chicken that appears whole but slices into attractive pieces of chicken and stuffing. It's also a low calorie and healthy recipe.

You'll find directions for boning and re-forming a whole chicken further on, but in case you don't have the time or desire to do it yourself, a cooperative butcher can do it for you in about five minutes.

1 whole chicken (3 1/2 to 4 pounds) 2-3 zucchini (3/4 pound), well scrubbed and grated 2-3 yellow squash (3/4 pound), well scrubbed and grated 4 carrots, peeled and grated 1 cup thinly sliced scallions 1 large clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon or 2 teaspoons dried 1/3 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs (made from 2 slices low-calorie while grain bread) 1 egg white or 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten 3/4 teaspoon ground pepper, divided 1/2 teaspoon of salt, divided 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg or to taste Yogurt-Herb Sauce (recipe follows) Fresh tarragon sprigs, miniature zucchini, yellow squash and carrots, (optional garnish) Bone chicken except for wings and legs. Using kitchen string and a large darning needle, sew up any holes in skin and the split area near tail -- chicken should form a roughly rectangular shape. Place squash and carrots in a colander or strainer; press with back of wooden spoon or hands to remove as much liquid as possible.

In a large, non-stick or lightly greased skillet, combine grated vegetables, scallions and garlic. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, 6 to 8 minutes or until mixture is quite dry, but not brown. Remove from heat; stir in tarragon, Parmesan, bread crumbs, egg white, 1/2 teaspoon pepper, 1/4 teaspoon salt and nutmeg.

Preheat oven to 400F. Sprinkle inside of chicken with remaining salt and pepper. Stuff and truss chicken, following directions for reforming a whole chicken. Brush with oil, if desired. Place on rack in roasting pan and roast 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and roast 1 hour longer or until juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced.

Refrigerate chicken until ready to serve. Recipe can be served hot, but will slice more easily if thoroughly chilled. Serve chicken with Yogurt-Herb Sauce, garnish with herbs and vegetables, if desired.

Yogurt-Herb Sauce 1 cup plain low-fat yogurt 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley Salt and ground pepper to taste In small bowl, combine yogurt and herbs. Add salt and ground pepper to taste.

BONING AND RE-FORMING A WHOLE CHICKEN 1. On a large cutting board, place bird breast down with drumsticks turned toward you. Using a small, sharp boning knife, cut off tail. Then cut through skin down middle of backbone.

2. Keep knife close to backbone to loosen flesh, cutting around small oyster-shaped piece of meat part-way down back; leave oyster attached to skin. Just below oyster, use point of knife to locate and sever ball joint between hip and thigh.

3. Working toward neck, loosen flesh from carca.s.s. When shoulder blade is reached, keep bone to your right and cut through joint to sever wing from shoulder.

4. Continue loosening flesh around edge of carca.s.s until you reach breastbone. Do not try to detach this because skin is very thin at this point. Turn bird around so neck faces you; repeat steps 2 and 3. Carefully, cut through two spots where wishbone is attached to carca.s.s.

5. When both sides of carca.s.s and wishbone are loosened, lift carca.s.s and cut breastbone away from meat. Cut through cartilage, but do not worry about leaving some attached to flesh. It can be removed more easily later without piercing skin. Remove carca.s.s and, if desired, simmer with vegetables to make a stock.

6. Using kitchen string or unwaxed dental floss, thread a large darning needle. Turn chicken skin-side up and sew closed any holes in skin. St.i.tch split area near tail together so that chicken roughly forms a rectangle.

7. Turn chicken skin-side down and carefully remove any remaining cartilage in breast area. Detach small breast fillets and use to cover less meaty areas near thighs.

Season meat, if desired.

8. Mound stuffing down center of breast. Pull skin up on either side around stuffing and re-form chicken. Sew back of bird closed.

9. Truss bird into attractive chicken shape.

A TRIO OF SHOW STOPPER "VEAL" CLa.s.sICS Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, when pounded and flattened, can make an excellent subst.i.tute for veal. And if your market has them, the thin sliced boneless roaster breast is even better, since you don't have to pound or flatten the individual pieces. The fact is, if someone didn't tell you, and if you're not a food professional, there's a good chance that you'd have difficulty telling the difference. The muscle fibers in both meats are surprisingly similar; they're both low in fat, and neither has much collagen, the factor that makes meat fibrous and chewy.

The basic ingredients in most of the "veal" dishes that follow are boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. They're called "cutlets." A scaloppine is a cutlet sliced in half lengthwise.

By the way, if Frank had his way, from now on you wouldn't think of chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s as an inexpensive subst.i.tute for veal. You'd think of veal as a more expensive subst.i.tute for his chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. In fact, Frank likes to say that "Anything veal can do, my chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s can do better,"

He points out that chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s are richer than veal in vitamin A, niacin, and calcium, and they're lower in calories and cholesterol. They're equal to veal in protein, and of course, they're much, much more affordable.

If thin sliced boneless roaster breast is unavailable in your market, you can make your own scaloppine, place a skinless, boneless chicken breast half on a flat surface, insert a sharp knife into the side and cut the chicken breast into two wide flat slices. Put these slices between sheets of plastic wrap and pound with a meat mallet or rolling pin to 1/4" thickness.

CHICKEN OSCa.r.s.erves 4 Veal Oscar is served in some of the finest New York restaurants. You can make this chicken version yourself for a small fraction of the restaurant cost.

8 scaloppine (about 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves) or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 1/4 cup flour 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 cup cooked crabmeat 16 cooked, fresh asparagus spears or 1 can (10 1/2 ounces), drained 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup Hollandaise Sauce (optional) Dip scaloppine in flour to coat lightly, shake off excess.

In a skillet over medium-high heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Add scaloppine and saute for about 1 1/2 minutes per side until lightly browned and just cooked through. Remove to serving platter. Top with crabmeat and asparagus spears. Cover and hold in 250 degree oven. Add broth to skillet and cook over high heat to reduce by half. Stir frequently. Remove scaloppine from oven. Top with sauce and Hollandaise, if desired.

PERDUE PARMIGIANOServes 4 This is a little like the Austrian treatment of veal, but with an Italian accent. Serve it with spaghetti. If you don't have commercial bread crumbs handy, dry a couple of slices of bread in a 250 degree oven, and then whirl in the blender or food processor. Presto! Your own bread crumbs.

8 scaloppine (about 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves) or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 1/4 cup flour seasoned with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon Ground pepper 2 eggs 1/2 cup fine dry bread crumbs 6 tablespoons oil 1 cup homemade or prepared marinara sauce (available in supermarkets) 1/2 pound mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese Place seasoned flour on a sheet of wax paper. Break eggs into a shallow bowl and beat lightly. Place bread crumbs on a separate sheet of wax paper. Dip scaloppine in flour to coat lightly, shake off excess. Dip in beaten egg, then coat with bread crumbs. In large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add saute scaloppine and saute for about 1 minute per side until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Arrange scaloppine in shallow baking dish or ca.s.serole. Cover with marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bake in 350 degree oven for 15 minutes.

PERDUE WIENER SCHNITZELServes 4 I had the real thing in Austria, and I don't think it was any better than this. Serve it with b.u.t.tered noodles.

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 1/4 cup flour seasoned with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon Ground pepper 6 eggs 1 cup fine bread crumbs 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt and pepper to taste 1 lemon, quartered Pound chicken between plastic wrap to flatten to 1/4 inch thickness. Skip the previous step if you are using thin sliced boneless roaster b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Break 2 eggs into a shallow bowl and beat lightly. Place bread crumbs on a separate sheet of wax paper. Dip cutlets in flour to coat, shake off excess. Dip in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt half of b.u.t.ter. Saute breaded cutlets until golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove to heated serving platter. Add reserved b.u.t.ter to skillet and fry remaining eggs sunnyside up to desired doneness. Season with salt and pepper. Place 1 egg on top of each cutlet, sprinkle with parsley and garnish with lemon quarters.

NOTE TO EDITOR: CAN WE HAVE THE SECTION ON "MENU FOR THREE BEAUTIFUL GUESTS" PUT ON ITS OWN PAGE, SEPARATE FROM THE OTHER RECIPES? I'D LIKE TO HAVE IT HIGHLIGHTED IN SOME MANNER.

LET'S USE THE STORY BOARD FOR THREE BEAUTIFUL GUESTS HERE.

MOST OF THE READERS WILL NEVER HAVE SEEN A STORY BOARD BEFORE AND WOULD FIND IT FASCINATING.

PHOTO: POSSIBLE PHOTO OF THE FOUR CORNISH, IF WE CAN FIND IT IN COLOR.

MENU FOR THREE BEAUTIFUL GUESTS One of Frank's most memorable commercials is "Dinner with Three Beautiful Guests."

In the commercial, while Frank roasts four fresh Cornish game hens, he showers; shaves; puts on a tuxedo; chills some champagne; arranges flowers in a vase; turns on soft music; and then opens the door to greet three ravis.h.i.+ng beauties. The commercial has been so successful that the advertising agency produced a sequel, dramatizing an actual letter that arrived at Perdue Farms' consumer relations department:

"Mr. Perdue, I have a complaint. I prepared four of your Cornish hens just as you did on T.V. I showered and shaved just as you did on T.V. I dressed as you did on T.V. I chilled the wine, and laid the birds on a bed of wild rice just as you did on T.V. Your advertising is misleading. No pretty girls have knocked on my door."

People sometimes ask me if the original ad makes me jealous. Actually it's my favorite.

QUICK, CRISP CORNISH HENSServes 4 Wild rice is a completely different crop from regular rice.

It is chewier and has a more nut-like flavor. The people who grow it refer to it as "the caviar of grains."

This is a good and quick method for roasting Cornish hens but it can smoke up your kitchen. If you don't have a good fan, preheat your oven to 500oF and then reduce it to 375oF when you put the hens in - and then roast them for 45 to 50 minutes instead of the half hour mentioned in this recipe.

4 fresh Cornish game hens Salt and ground pepper to taste 1 tablespoon minced, fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried 1 bunch fresh parsley 4 small bay leaves 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 2 cups hot, cooked wild rice 1 lemon cut in wedges as garnish Bacon and Wild Mushroom Gravy (recipe follows) Place rack in lower half of oven; preheat to 5000F. If you have a ventilator fan on stove, turn it on. Reserving other giblets for gravy, discard necks and livers. Season hen cavities with salt, pepper and thyme. Trim stem ends from parsley and add 1 tablespoon to each cavity, along with a bay leaf. Tie legs together, fold back wings and place hens breast side up in a roasting pan.

Roast hens for about 30 minutes, basting once with b.u.t.ter, until skin is brown and crisp and juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced. Remove hens from pan and skim off all but 3 tablespoons drippings to be used in gravy. Serve on a bed of wild rice; garnish with parsley and lemon wedges and pa.s.s gravy separately.

Bacon and Wild Mushroom Gravy 1 ounce dried wild mushrooms (cepes, morels or porcini) 1 cup boiling water 1/4 pound bacon, diced Giblets reserved from hens, chopped 1/3 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup dry sherry 1/4 cup flour 2-1/2 cups chicken broth or water To reconst.i.tute mushrooms well, pour boiling water over them and allow to steep 10 minutes. Strain through a coffee filter and reserve liquid. Rinse mushrooms to remove any sand; chop finely.

In a large skillet over medium-low heat, fry bacon until crisp. Drain bacon on paper towels. Leaving 2 tablespoons bacon fat in pan, add giblets, mushrooms and onion and brown about 5 minutes. Add to Cornish drippings in roasting pan. Whisk in sherry and flour. Cook, whisking frequently for 3 to 4 minutes or until flour is browned.

Add bacon, reserved mushroom liquid, and broth to flour mixture. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently, and cook gravy to thicken. Serve with hens.

CIDER-GLAZED CARROTSServes 4 1 pound baby carrots, peeled 2 cups apple cider 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons honey 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1 tablespoon minced, fresh parsley Cut larger carrots in half on a diagonal, if necessary, so that all carrots are approximately the same size. In a saucepan over medium heat, bring cider, b.u.t.ter, honey, salt and pepper to a boil and add carrots. Cook 5 minutes or until just beginning to soften; remove with slotted spoon.

Bring cider mixture back to a boil and cook 5 minutes to thicken glaze. Remove from heat. Two minutes before serving, reheat carrots in sauce, tossing frequently.

Serve garnished with parsley.

PEAS IN CHIVE CREAMServes 4 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 teaspoon salt and ground pepper to taste 1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh or frozen peas 1 tablespoon snipped fresh or frozen chives In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring cream and seasoning to a boil and cook until thick, about 5 minutes; whisk frequently. Five minutes before serving, stir in peas and bring back to a boil, stirring frequently. Add chives just before serving.

STRAWBERRIES ROMANOFFServes 4 1 quart long-stemmed strawberries 1 cup sour cream 1/2 to 1 cup brown sugar, sifted Arrange strawberries attractively on four individual dessert plates. Garnish each plate with a big dollop of sour cream and a heaping tablespoonful of sugar. Dip strawberries first into sour cream, then into sugar.

ZURELLI'S SPINACH CUTLETS Chuck Zurelli, a butcher for one of the large supermarket chains, makes this for his customers. It's not hard to do at home and it looks professional. You may want to subst.i.tute fresh minced onion and garlic for the onion powder and garlic powder that Mr. Zurelli uses.

There is a trick to it though. We all know that having sharp knives is a Good Thing, but how often do you sharpen yours? Are you like me, that once a year would be average, and if you were to get up to once a month, you'd be feeling pretty virtuous? Chuck Zurelli does a little better than once a month. If you were to watch him at work, you'd see that in the process of b.u.t.terflying chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, he'll almost automatically run his knife across his sharpening tool every 15 or 20 seconds. Since meeting Mr. Zurelli, I've asked other butchers how often they sharpen their knives. It turns out that Zurelli is typical. The professionals feel it's worth their while to keep their knives very, very sharp. Now that I've tried it, I think they're right. If you're doing some serious cutting, how about a few quick strokes on your sharpening tool? It does make a difference.

For each serving: 1 skinless, boneless chicken breast half or 1 slice of the thin sliced boneless roaster breast 4 spinach leaves 1 slice provolone cheese Onion powder Garlic powder Vegetable oil Salt and ground pepper to taste Take a half boneless chicken breast and b.u.t.terfly it open.

Or use a slice of the thin sliced roaster breast. Remove the membrane and sinews, since these can tighten unevenly and distort the look of the final product. Take four spinach leaves and layer these over the b.u.t.terflied fillet.

Top this with a slice of provolone cheese, cut about as thick as the pre-sliced cheeses used for sandwiches. Season with a few shakes each of onion powder and garlic powder.

(Don't add salt until after it's finished cooking; salt will draw out the juices and toughen the meat.) Roll up the fillet tightly, jelly roll fas.h.i.+on. Fasten with a toothpick or tie with kitchen twine. Preheat oven to 350oF.

Brush chicken with oil to seal in the moisture and then bake for 20 to 30 minutes or until cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.