Bygone Cumberland and Westmorland Part 7

How unfavourably the introduction of tea was regarded, by some writers at any rate, may be gathered from the following paragraph, which appeared in the _Pacquet_ of October 23rd, 1792:--"A correspondent says that in the neighbourhood of Greystoke, during the late harvest, added to an increase of wages, the female reapers had regularly their tea every afternoon, and the men, toast and ale. How different is this from the beef-steak breakfasts of old! How degenerate is the present age, and how debilitated may the next be!"

Oat-cake and brown bread are less favoured in the two counties than was formerly the case, a fact which was often deplored by the late Bishop of Carlisle, Dr. Goodwin. It is not a little curious that two articles which formed the staple portions of the diet of the people from sixty to a hundred years ago, should now be regarded more in the nature of luxuries.

As an example of the sparing way in which "white flour" was used, an old Appleby native tells a story concerning what happened at a good hostelry in the borough, sixty years ago, at a time when wheaten flour was very scarce, but butcher meat very plentiful. Among other good substantial things on the table was a huge meat pie, at the s.h.i.+lling ordinary. Just, however, as the "head of the table" was about to cut the crust, the waiter whispered to him, "Please, sir, missis says flour is so dear, ye must run t' knife round t' crust and lift it clean off on to my tray to do another time."

From the remains of ancient structures it is still possible to draw good pictures of the way the old inhabitants pa.s.sed their lives therein. The late Dr. M. W. Taylor by that means elaborated the story of the daily doings of the people, from lord to va.s.sal, who inhabited Yanwath Hall. A similar picture has been presented by Mr. J. F. Curwen in his monograph on Levens Hall "in the bygone":--

"Just within would be the raised dais, with its flanking window bay, and the long table, at the higher side of which the lord with his family and any distinguished guests took their meals, whilst on the floor below those of an inferior rank were seated at tables ranging along each side of the room. At the opposite, or western, end, the oaken screens, nine and a half feet high, extended across the full width, dividing off the heck or pa.s.sage, from which opened out the kitchen, b.u.t.tery, and other offices, and from over which the musicians in the minstrels' gallery would on all occasions of more than ordinary importance enliven the feast with their melody. This hall was also used for the transaction of business between the lord and his va.s.sals, for here he would hold his royalty court, receiving their suit and service, and administer justice according to the powers granted to him by the Crown. At night time the retainers would huddle together on the thickly strewn rushes in the middle of the floor, around the fire and its convolving wreaths of smoke ascending to the open lantern in the roof. For it must be remembered that chimneys were not introduced into England, except to a few castles, until the fifteenth century, about the time when the Redemans would be transferring Levens to Alan Bellingham."

With chimneys came new taxes, and some of them were not only keenly resented, but evaded as openly as was possible. The people seem to have had a special dislike to the tax of two s.h.i.+llings a year which was pa.s.sed in the twelfth year of Charles the Second, for that was a heavy sum, having regard to the value of money then. Among the ma.n.u.scripts preserved at Rydal Hall, Westmorland, by the le Flemings, are a great many references to this tax. There were schemes for subst.i.tuting other imposts, as appears by a sentence contained in a letter (May 10th, 1669) by Daniel Fleming, Rydal, to Joseph Williamson, who had just purchased the estate of Winderwath, near Temple Sowerby:--"There are rumours one while that the Scots are up in armes, another while that bishops and dean and chapter lands will be sold, or annext to the crowne in the place of the excise and hearth money, and bishops to be maintained by sallaries out of the exchequer."

Another doc.u.ment is from the Lords Commissioners to the justices of the peace in the Barony of Kendal, concerning the collection of the hearth tax, and an item in a news-letter of April, 1671, says, "This day the Lord Treasurer received proposals for the farm of the hearth money; those who propose to keep it as it was, advancing only 100,000, are to make a new offer." During the following summer another came "from the Court at Whitehall" to the justices of the peace for Westmorland, "Cautioning them against allowing exemptions from hearth money too readily. They should consider firstly who are they whom the law intends to be exempted. Then they should appoint petty sessions for the signing of certificates at such times and places that the royal officers may attend and be heard. It cannot be supposed that the law intends to oblige the justices to allow whatsoever shall be offered them without examining the truth thereof." A news-letter of April 23rd, 1674, gives an idea of the extent of the tax in the following sentence:--"This day the farm of the hearth money was made and let to Mr. Anslem, Mr. Perry, and Mr. Buckley, at 151,000 per annum, and 25,000 advance, commencing at Michaelmas next."

Some of the entries are of special interest to c.u.mberland and Westmorland.

Thus in a letter to Daniel Fleming on January 8th, 1674-5, Robert Joplin, writing from Kendal, "apologises for writing as he had not been able to wait upon him. Has been seven weeks in the country, and surveyed and taken account of all the hearths in most of the market towns of this county, and in c.u.mberland. Had always behaved with all civility. If he will have the duplicates of the surveys made they will be handed in at the next sessions." A week later Robert Joplin and Richard Bell, the collectors of the hearth tax, report to the justices of Kendal: "Have surveyed most of the market towns in the two counties, levying the tax of 2s. on every fire hearth. Would not proceed to distrain without the justices' permission.

Some refuse to pay because they were not charged before. All kitchens and beerhouses refuse on the same pretence. Many hearths have been made up, most of them lately. We trust that the justices will be very careful in giving certificates."

A few days afterwards Nathaniel Johnson, another collector of the tax, writes from Newcastle to Daniel Fleming that he "does not think the determination of the justices to proceed in the matter of the hearth money under the old survey, until the new is perfected, is consistent with the law; nevertheless he will yield to their opinion." Johnson proves to be a difficult official with whom to deal, and he writes to Fleming in July, "Remonstrating against the conduct of the Kendal magistrates in the matter of the hearth money. It has been already decided that smiths' hearths are liable. The practice of walling up hearths in a temporary manner is plainly fraudulent. The magistrates ought not to countenance such things, nor refuse the evidence of officials engaged in this business, for of course none other can be made. May reluctantly be compelled to appeal against their proceedings."

These and similar protests did not appear to have much effect, though frequently repeated, and ten years later came an order from the Lord High Treasurer to the Clerk of the Peace of the county of Lancaster, to be communicated to the justices, in view of the difficulties raised by them in the collection of the hearth money: "The duty is to be levied on empty houses, smiths' forges, innkeepers' and bakers' ovens, on landlords for tenements let to persons exempt on account of poverty, on private persons where there is a hearth and oven in one chimney. The duty may be levied on the goods of landlords and tenants which are not on the premises whereon the duty arises."

There is a rather amusing reference to the subject in a letter sent by William Fleming to his brother Roger Fleming, at Coniston Hall: "Tell the constable the same hearth man is coming again. Tell him to be as kind as his conscience will permit to his neighbours, and play the fool no more.

The priest and he doth not know how happy they are."

The means available, in bygone days, for quenching fire were, everywhere in the two counties, of a most primitive character. In March, 1657, the Corporation of Kendal decreed, as there had "happened of late within this borough great loss and damage by fire," and the Corporation had not fit instruments and materials for speedy subduing of the flames, that the Mayor and Alderman should each provide two leathern buckets, and each burgess one such bucket, before May 1st following, the penalty being a fine of 6s. 8d. in the case of the leading men, and half that amount for default on the part of others.

Sports and Festivities.

It is almost impossible to separate the sports of the c.u.mberland and Westmorland people from the festivals, inasmuch as some of the pastimes were prominent items in gatherings even of a semi-religious character.

Wrestling, that finest of North-Country exercises, has been practically killed by the compet.i.tion of other athletic games, but more than all by the "barneying" so often practised by the wrestlers. To this cause must be ascribed the fall of the "mother ring" at Carlisle, and the disfavour into which the sport has dropped in all parts of the two counties, albeit the Grasmere exhibitions are still kept up to a fair standard of honesty. For centuries it was the greatest amus.e.m.e.nt of fellsider, dalesman, and town dweller, and it was no uncommon thing for men to walk, in the pre-railway days, twenty miles to a wrestling meeting. Pure love of sport must have been the motive, because the prize usually consisted only of a belt of the value of from ten s.h.i.+llings to a sovereign--often much less--and a small sum of money which would now be looked at with contempt even when offered by way of "expenses." The men whose prowess gained them more than local fame were often almost perfect specimens of what athletes should be at their respective weights, and their skill cannot be approached by any of the medium and light weights now in the ring. For several other reasons the sport is ent.i.tled--unfortunately so--to be cla.s.sed among things belonging to the bygone, and to the next generation wrestling, as understood at the Melmerby and Langwathby Rounds fifty years ago, will be unknown.

Clergymen have often been included among the best wrestlers of their time, especially in West c.u.mberland, though some who as young men were noted for their prowess in this direction gave up this sport when they took holy orders. William Litt, whose name will always have a place in local sporting annals through his book, "Wrestliana," was intended for the Church. His tastes were so obviously in other directions that the plan had to be abandoned, and he developed into one of the finest wrestlers of his time. The Rev. G. Wilkinson, Vicar of Arlecdon, and the Rev. O. Littleton, Vicar of b.u.t.termere, were also ardent followers of the sport; while the Rev. A. Brown, Egremont, and the inventor of the "chip" known as b.u.t.tocking, was described as one of the best exponents of the old game to be found in the north of England.

A sporting custom peculiar to the two counties--for the n.o.bleman most concerned has immense possessions in each--is the race for the Burgh Barony Cup. The meeting has been well described as "a singular old-world inst.i.tution, one of a number of antiquated customs mixed up with the land laws." The races are held to celebrate the "reign" of a new Lord Lonsdale, consequently no earl ever sees more than one--at least when he is the head of the family. The last meeting on Burgh Marsh was in March, 1883, when the arrangements were on a royal scale, thousands of persons being present, an enormous number of them as the guests of his lords.h.i.+p.

Wrestling formed an important part of the proceedings during the two days, but the central item was the race for the cup. The compet.i.tors were confined to animals owned by free or customary tenants within the Barony, and the winner of the hundred guineas trophy was greeted with frantic cheering.

Carlisle possesses a unique racing relic. The "horse courses" were formerly held on Kingmoor, and the "Carlisle bells" were doubtless prized as much in their day as the stakes for 10,000 are now. The articles frequently figure in the Munic.i.p.al Records as the Horse and Nage Bells, and were for a long time lost, being ultimately found in an old box in the Town Clerk's office. Mr. Llewellyn Jewitt, F.S.A., some twenty years ago gave this description of the relics: "The racing bells are globular in form, with slits at the bottom, as is usual in bells of that cla.s.s. The loose ball which would originally lie in the inside, so as to produce the sound, has disappeared. The largest, which is two and a quarter inches in diameter, is of silver gilt, and bears on a band round its centre the inscription [each word being separated by a cross]:

+ THE + SWEFTES + HORSE + THES + BEL + TO + TAK + FOR + MI + LADE + DAKER + SAKE

This lady was probably Elizabeth, daughter of George Talbot, fourth Earl of Shrewsbury, and wife of William, Lord Dacre of Gilsland, who was Governor of Carlisle in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The other bell, also of silver, is smaller in size, and bears the initials H.B.M.C. (Henry Baines, Mayor of Carlisle), 1559. On Shrove Tuesday Kingmoor became a busy scene, and the contests created much excitement among the freemen and others. The bell was not an uncommon prize, either in horse-racing or c.o.c.k-fighting, and was held by the victor, as challenge cups and s.h.i.+elds are at the present day, from one year to another, or from one race to another. To win this race was of course a mark of honour, and gave rise to the popular expression of 'to bear away the bell.' At York the racing prize in 1607 was a small golden bell, and the Corporation Records of Chester about 1600 show that in that city a silver bell was given to be raced for on the Roodee; but I am not aware that any of them are now in existence. Probably the Carlisle examples are unique."

[Ill.u.s.tration: CARLISLE RACING BELLS.]

There are many other evidences that racing has for several centuries been a favourite pastime with the people of c.u.mberland and Westmorland. The race meetings seem to have been made occasions for county gatherings of other kinds, and especially for c.o.c.k-fights--a sport which has not yet entirely died out. The following advertis.e.m.e.nt of Penrith races in 1769, which appeared in the _St. James's Chronicle_ for that year, may be quoted as an example of many others, relating not only to Penrith but to other towns in the two counties:--

_Penrith Races, 1769._

To be run for, on Wednesday, the 24th of May, 1769, on the new Race Ground at Penrith, c.u.mberland.

Fifty Pounds, by any four Years old Horse, Mare, or Gelding, carrying 8st. 7lb. Two-mile Heats.

On Thursday, the 25th, Fifty Pounds, by any Horse, &c., five Years old, carrying 9st. Three-mile Heats.

On Friday, the 26th, Fifty Pounds, by any five, six Years old, and Aged Horse, &c. Five-year Olds to carry 8st. 3lb. Six-year Olds 9st., and Aged 9st 8lb. Four-mile Heats.

All Horses, etc., that run for the above Plates, to be entered at the Market Cross on Sat.u.r.day, the 20th Day of May, between the Hours of Three and Six o'Clock in the Afternoon. The Owner of each Horse, &c., to subscribe and pay Three Guineas at the Time of Enterance towards the Races, and Two s.h.i.+llings and Six-pence for the Clerk of the Race.

Certificates of each Horse, &c., to be produced at the Time of Enterance. Three reputed running Horses, &c., to enter and start for each of the above Plates, or no Race.

If only one Horse, &c., enters, to receive Ten Pounds, if two Fifteen between them, and their Subscription paid at the time of Enterance returned.

All the above Plates to be run for in the royal Manner, and any Dispute that may arise to be determined by the Stewards, or whom they shall appoint.

The several Plates will be paid without any Deduction or Perquisite.

{CHARLES HOWARD, jun., Esq.

Stewards.{ {ANDREW WHELPDALE, Esq.

[pointing hand] A c.o.c.k Main, Ordinaries, and a.s.semblies, as usual.

Not less interesting than the foregoing announcement is the report of the event. There was never much attempt at descriptions, either of races or c.o.c.k-fights, though one would like to know the names of the gentlemen indicated in this closing paragraph of the report: "At this Meeting a Main of c.o.c.ks was fought between the Gentlemen of c.u.mberland, David Smith, Feeder, and the Gentlemen of Westmoreland, Thomas Bownas, Feeder, which consisted of 21 Battles, 16 whereof were won by the former, and 5 by the latter; and of the 15 Bye-Battles Smith won 6, and Bownas 9."

Dalston was long the headquarters of c.o.c.k-fighting in c.u.mberland--"Dalston Black-reeds" are still spoken of as the best birds of the kind in the world. There is a tradition to the effect that c.o.c.k-fighting was once carried on at Rose Castle, in the parish of Dalston, but the Rev. J.

Wilson[17] took particular pains to disprove the a.s.sertion. Against that must be put the following sentence which appeared in _Good Words_ for December, 1894: "One curious adjunct to an episcopal residence, speaking loudly of the change of manners and the amelioration of tastes, is the c.o.c.k-pit, where matches are said to have been at one time fought for the amus.e.m.e.nt of the Bishop and his friends." The favourite day for c.o.c.k-fights was Shrove Tuesday.

c.o.c.k-fighting was far from being the only barbarous sport enjoyed by the people of the northern counties. Bull-baiting and badger-baiting were probably never more popular than at the time when they were prohibited by law in 1835. There is still the bull ring at Appleby, and the spectators'

gallery was removed within living memory. At Kirkoswald and several other market-places in the two counties the rings are still firmly fixed to which the bulls were tethered during the baiting process. Mr. W. Wilson, in his brochure on "Old Social Life in c.u.mberland," says: "In Keswick a large iron ring was formerly fixed in a stone block in the market-place; this was called the bull ring, and to this a bull, previous to being slaughtered, was fastened by the ring in its nose, and then baited and bitten by savage dogs amid dreadful bellowing till the poor beast was almost covered with foam, and quite exhausted. Great excitement prevailed when a bull was being baited, and large numbers a.s.sembled to witness the sport. On such occasions the market-place at Keswick was crowded, and many in order to obtain a good view, might be seen sitting on the roofs of the adjoining houses. Beyond the excitement which the exhibition produced among the spectators, the system was thought to be of great value in improving the quality of the beef, an aged bull being especially tough unless well baited before slaughtering. When the flesh of a bull was exposed for sale, it was the rule in Keswick and probably elsewhere, to burn candles during the day on the stall on which the meat was exposed for sale, in order that customers might be aware of the quality of the meat sold there." In some other places in the two counties the penalty for killing and selling an unbaited bull was 6s. 8d.

For a very long period archery was practised in c.u.mberland and Westmorland not only as a means of defence and attack, but also as a recreation. The numerous places called "b.u.t.ts," or bearing synonymous names, indicate that few towns neglected to set apart a shooting ground. In his "Survey of the Lakes" Clarke blamed the severity of the game laws for keeping up skill in archery amongst the poachers in the forests of the north-western counties.

He added: "It was this that produced so many noted archers and outlaws in the forest of Englewood as well as that of Sherwood. For not to mention Adam Bell and his partners, tradition still preserves the names of Watty of Croglin, Woodhead Andrew, Robin O'th'Moor's Gruff Elleck (Alexander), and of several others as of persons distinguished in that line even amongst the people who were almost to a man of the same stamp. Besides, as their squabbles and the subsequent maraudings made the skill thus acquired at times absolutely necessary to the inhabitants on each side of the boundary, we may easily conclude that a necessity of this kind, continually kept alive, must produce no small degree of dexterity.

"Whoever will consider the circ.u.mstances of the battles which were then fought, will find that wherever the ground or circ.u.mstances favoured the archer for a number of regular discharges, they generally produced such a confusion, particularly amongst the enemy's horse, as gave the men-at-arms of their own party an opportunity of easily completing it. I need cite no further particulars of this than the battle of Homildon, when the forces of the Northern Marches encountered the gallant Archibald, Earl of Douglas; the men-at-arms stood still that day, and the bowmen had the whole business upon their hands. It is recorded that no armour could resist their arrows, though that of Earl Douglas and his a.s.sociates had been three years in making. It would seem, indeed, that the Scots excelled in the use of the spear, and (excepting the Borderers) neglecting the bow; since one of their own kings is thought to have recommended its more general use by ridiculing their imperfect management of it."

The Kendal bowmen celebrated the prowess of their fore-elders of the same name by establis.h.i.+ng a compet.i.tion and festival for September 9th in each year. It was on that day in 1513 that the Kendal bowmen were particularly distinguished in the battle of Flodden Field. The prizes shot for every year were a silver arrow and a medal, the members appearing in a uniform of green, with arrow b.u.t.tons; the cape green velvet with silver arrow; the waistcoat and breeches buff, and the shooting jacket was of green and white striped cotton.

Whitehaven also had its Society of Archers, and in 1790 had a medal designed by Smirke as a trophy for compet.i.tion. On one side were the bugle-horn, quiver, and bow, above them being the words, "Per Has Victoriam," and underneath the three place-names, "Poictiers," "Cressy,"

and "Agincourt." On the reverse was the name of the shooting ground, Parton Green, and the date, while round the edge were the words, "Captain's Medal, c.u.mberland Archers."

The Kendal "Boke of Recorde" contains several references to the pastimes of Westmerians from two to three centuries ago. On one occasion it was ordered by the Corporation "That whosoever do play at the football in the street and break any windows, shall forfeit upon view thereof by the Mayor or one of the Aldermen in the ward where the fault is committed the sum of 12d. for every time every party, and 3s. 4d. for every window by the same broken, and to be committed till it be paid, the constable looke to it to present it presently at every Court day." That knur and spell, the game so popular still in Yorks.h.i.+re, was once a favourite pastime in Kendal is attested by the following entry, dated April, 1657: "It is ordered by the Court that all such persons, inhabitants within this borough, above the age of twelve years, that hereafter shall play in the streets at a game commonly called Kattstick and Bullvett shall forfeit and incur the penalty of 12d. for every offence, to be levied of their goods, and where they have no goods to be imprisoned two hours."

The somewhat questionable glories of Workington Easter football play have pa.s.sed away, partly in consequence of the occupation of a portion of the playing ground by railways and works, and not less because of a change of feeling. How long these Easter Tuesday matches between "Uppies" and "Downeys" have gone on no man can tell. Half a century ago it was reported in the _Pacquet_ that the game in 1849 "was played with all the vigour of former days, from times beyond 'the memory of the oldest inhabitant.'" The goals are about a mile apart, one being a capstan at the harbour, and the other the park wall of Workingham Hall. There are no rules except those suggested by cunning and skill, while brute force is of the greatest importance. If the ball is "haled" over the park wall a sovereign is given by the owner of the estate to the winners, and of course it is spent in liquor. The players sometimes number hundreds, and thousands of people attend as spectators.

In several places in the two counties "mock mayors" were annually elected, and the occasion at Wreay was marked by somewhat uncommon festivities.