Things To Make Part 26

The lid overlaps the side 1/4 inch in all directions and has a square notch cut in it at one end to pa.s.s under the piece A, and at the other a deeper, circular-ended nick to enable it to pa.s.s over the key B when that is turned into the position shown in the ill.u.s.tration. A is cut out of 1/4-inch wood; B, in one piece, out of 1/2-inch. Their length under the heads exceeds the inside depth of the box by the thickness of the lid.

A is affixed rigidly to the side by small screws or wire, while B must be attached in a manner, which will allow the head to rotate. Cut two nicks round the shank, and two horizontal slots at the same height through the end of the box. A couple of bra.s.s rings must then be procured of such a size that, when flattened into a somewhat oval shape, they will project beyond the slots sufficiently to allow a piece of wire to pa.s.s through them and prevent their being drawn back again.

Quarter-inch wood will do for the lid. A handle is made out of a couple of inches of small cane bent into a semicircle, let through the lid at each end, glued, and cut off flush.

The exterior may be decorated by a design in poker-work, or be stained and varnished. This is left to the maker's discretion.

x.x.xIV. WRESTLING PUPPETS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 182.--Peg marked for cutting and drilling.]

The expenditure of a halfpenny, and a quarter of an hour's use of a pocket knife, bradawl, and pliers, will produce a toy which is warranted to amuse grown-ups as well as children. Wrestlers made out of clothes pegs may be bought for a copper or two in the street, and are hardly a novelty; yet a few notes on home production will not be a waste of s.p.a.ce, as making is cheaper, and much more interesting, than buying.

The clothes pegs used must be of the shape shown in Fig. 182, with a round top. They cost one penny per dozen.

Drill holes through body and legs as indicated in Fig. 182. Cut the legs from the "trunk,'" and whittle them to the shape of Fig. 183. The arms, made out of any thin wood, are 2-1/4 inches long between centres of end holes.

To get the best results the two arms and the four legs should be paired off to exactly the same length.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 183.--Clothes-peg wrestlers.]

The neatest method of attaching the parts is to use small bra.s.s tacks, which must, of course, be of somewhat larger diameter than the holes in the body. Holes in arms and legs are a loose fit, so that the wrestlers may be very loose-jointed, and the tacks must not be driven in far enough to cause any friction.

Instead of tacks one may use wire pa.s.sed through the parts and secured by a bend or loop at each end. Wire has the disadvantage of entangling the thread which works the figures.

When a.s.sembling is finished, bore holes in the centres of the arm pieces, pa.s.s a piece of wire through, and twist it into a neat loop at each end. To one loop tie 2 feet of strong thread (carpet thread is best), and to the free end of the thread a large nail or hook. The other loop has 6 feet or so of thread tied to it, to be worked by the hand. If the thread is stained black, it will be practically invisible by artificial light.

The nail or hook is stuck under the edge of the carpet, or into some crack or cranny which affords a good hold, and the wrestlers are worked by motions of the hand. The funniest antics are produced by very slight jerks.

If the arms are set too close together the heads may stick between them, in which case one must either flatten off the sides of the heads or insert fresh arm wires of greater length. If a head persists in jamming against the thread wire or getting under it and staying there, cut 1/2 inch off a pin and stick it into the front of the crown, so that the head is arrested by the wire when the wrestler bends forward.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 184.--Large wrestlers made of stout wood.]

Large Wrestlers.--A more elaborate and realistic pair is shown in Fig.

184. The originals of the sketch are 8 inches high. Half-inch deal was used for the bodies, 3/8-inch for the legs and arms. The painting-in of hair, features, tights, and shoes adds considerably to the effect. The heads and limbs are mere profiles, but anyone with a turn for carving might spend a little time in rounding off and adding details which will make the puppets appear more lifelike.

x.x.xV. DOUBLE BELLOWS.

The small-sized bellows which have become popular in sitting-rooms are usually more ornamental than efficient, and make one think regretfully of the old-fas.h.i.+oned article of ample capacity which is seldom seen nowadays.

Fig. 185 ill.u.s.trates a method of coupling up two small bellows in such a manner as to provide an almost continuous blast, besides doubling the amount of air sent through the fire in a given time, at the coat of but little extra exertion. A piece of wood half an inch thick is screwed across one bellows just behind the valve hole. The two bellows are then laid valve facing valve, and are attached to one another by a strip of tin pa.s.sed round the wood just behind the nozzles and by tying the two fixed handles together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 185.--Double-acting bellows. Two methods of coupling shown.]

Make a rectangle of stout wire somewhat wider than the handles and long enough to reach from the outer face of one moving handle to that of the other, when one bellows is quite closed and the other full open. The ends of the wire should be soldered together, and the ends of the link held up to the handles by a couple of staples.

An alternative method is to use a piece of wood with a screw driven into it at right angles near each end through the staples on the handles (Fig. 185, a). In place of the staples you may use screw-in eyes fitting the screws.

x.x.xVI. A HOME-MADE PANTOGRAPH.

The pantograph is a simple apparatus for copying drawings, maps, designs, etc., on a reduced or enlarged scale, or to the same size as the original.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 186.--Details of simple pantograph.]

A sketch of a pantograph is given in Fig. 186. Four rods are jointed together to form a parallelogram, the sides of which can be lengthened or shortened to suit the scale of reproduction. One is attached by a fixed pivot at a to the board on which the drawing is done. At b and e are removable pivots, used for adjusting the rods; at c is a pivot which projects an inch or so below the rods. The pointer is inserted at d for enlargement, or at f for reduction, the pencil being in the unoccupied hole at d or f.

If a same-sized copy is desired, the fixed pivot is transferred to d, and the pencil and pointer placed at a and f respectively.

Construction of an Enlarging and Reducing Pantograph.--Cut out of 1/8-inch oak, walnut, or beech four rods 5/8 inch wide and 19 inches long.

Smooth them well all over, and make marks near the ends of each, exactly 18 inches apart. The graduation of the rods for the adjustment pivot holes is carried out in accordance with the measurements given in Fig. 187. It is advisable to mark out and bore each rod separately if you do not possess a machine which will drill holes quite perpendicularly; if you do, all four rods can be drilled at one operation.

In Fig. 187 the lower row of numerals indicates the number of times (in diameters) the original is enlarged when all four holes similarly figured are used; the upper row, the size of the copy as compared with the original in case of reduction.

If proportions other than those given are required, a very little calculation will locate the necessary holes.

Pivots.--All the pivots must fit their holes accurately, as any looseness at the joints detracts from the truth of reproduction. For pivots band b and e may use bra.s.s screws and small pieces of hard wood as nuts to hold them in position. The nuts should screw on rather stiffly, and not be forced hard against the rods, as free motion with little friction at all joints is essential for good work.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 187.--Diagram showing how to mark off pantograph rods. The dotted lines above rod give distances of holes from ends.]

The fixed pivot at a may be merely the shank of a wire nail of the proper size driven into the board, a cork collar being slipped over it to keep the rod the proper distance from the board. For c use a screw to the head of which has been soldered half an inch of a round-headed bra.s.s nail, which will move easily over the paper. At d is needed a hollow pivot, fas.h.i.+oned out of a quarter of an inch of pencil-point protector or some other thin tube, burred over slightly at the ends so as not to fall out. The end of B at f has a slotted hole to grip the pencil or pointer, as the case may be.

A Same-size Pantograph.--For making a same-size copy, tracing may be preferred to the use of a pantograph; but if a pantograph is adopted, a special apparatus may be constructed for the purpose. The arrangement is exactly the same as that already described, excepting that the only holes needed are those at a, c, d, f, at the middle points of the four rods, the parallelogram formed by the rods being equal-sided. The fixed pivot is situated at d, and pencil and pointer holes are made at a and f.

Using the Pantograph.--When adjusting the instrument for reduction or enlargement, make sure that the adjustment pivots are in the holes corresponding with the scale. The fixed pivot, pointer, and pencil must be rigid, and, with pivot c, be of such a length that the pantograph as a whole moves parallel to the paper. A little sliding weight to place on the rod near the pencil will be found useful for keeping the pencil point in constant contact with the paper.

If the apparatus works stiffly, ease the holes a trifle and lead-pencil the wood at all points where two surfaces rub. It is absolutely impossible to make a good reproduction with a stiff, jerky pantograph.

To decide the positions of original and the paper for the copy, get the pointer centred on the original and adjust the paper till its centre is under the pencil.

x.x.xVII. A SILHOUETTE DRAWING MACHINE.

With this very simple apparatus you will be able to give good entertainment to such of your friends as may wish to have black paper records of their faces in profile.

The machine is merely a long rod, with a sliding pencil attached to one end and a metal pointer stuck into the other, supported near the pencil end on a pivot which permits free movement in all directions.

For heads and busts only, the rod and pointer combined need not be more than 4 feet 6 inches long. The rod is a 1/2-inch blind rod, the pointer a stout knitting-needle driven axially into one end of the rod. This pointer, being of small diameter, follows the minor curves and angles of the features much more closely than would be possible with the rod.

The support is a piece of wood, 1-1/2 inches square and 12 to 15 inches long, screwed on to a large foot, which should be fairly heavy, as any tilting or slipping will, of course, spoil the silhouette. The universal joint for the rod is made by soldering a small U-shaped piece of metal to the end of a short metal bar. The ends of the U are drilled for a pin pa.s.sing through the rod; and a hole is sunk into the top of the support to take the bar. The fit should be close, to prevent the pivot rocking about, and the hole in the support deep enough to bring the bottom of the stirrup down against the wood.

If a series of holes half an inch apart is drilled, through the rod, the nearest 9 inches from the pencil end, the size of the silhouette proportionately to the original can be varied by moving the pin from one hole to another.