Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets Part 5

54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, _Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Gla.s.s of _Wine_. See _Flowers_.

55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the n.o.ble Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, _Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the a.s.siduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but princ.i.p.ally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to domineer.

Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergra.s.s_.

56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about _Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the Pa.s.sages, sharpning Appet.i.te, &c. so far preferrable to most of our hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in _France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, it has nothing like it.

57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepae_; The _French_ call them _Appet.i.tes_, which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.

58. Scurvy-gra.s.s, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, prevalent in the _s...o...b..te_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indic.u.m_.

59. Sellery, _Apium Italic.u.m_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family) was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_.

The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and _Praetors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the green in _Fennil_.

Shallots. See _Onion_.

60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nouris.h.i.+ng, wholsome and delicate; of all the _Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor _Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute.

This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_ of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning Appet.i.te, a.s.swages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is an _Antis...o...b..tic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide _Wood-Sorrel_.

62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._ Amba.s.sador and his Retinue.

63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist; _Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing more nouris.h.i.+ng, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.

64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a _Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most excellent Condiment with _b.u.t.ter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis _Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and in all places.

Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_.

65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_.

66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much fitter (tho' in very small quant.i.ty) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, _Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes.

67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness of the Ventricle, _&c._

68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariae_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, disarm'd of its p.r.i.c.kles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the _Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both Nouris.h.i.+ng and Restorative.

69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_.

70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_ is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nouris.h.i.+ng. _Pliny_ speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common _Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud.

And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best of _Wheat_.

Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fas.h.i.+on the Paste into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with _Sugar_ and _b.u.t.ter_.

71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_.

72. Viper-gra.s.s, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho'

Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, _Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with _Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.

73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of other _Sorrels_.

To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the n.o.blest _Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste.

The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root.

The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the _Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_; which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of _Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant _Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonaeus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the _Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our _Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong const.i.tutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in _Botany_.

There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large _Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_ alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which _Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and _Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, us'd to devour a great quant.i.ty of it. And it is still by the _Italians_ frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_ (common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in _Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cuc.u.mber_ it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than _Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted.

To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before ama.s.s'd a quant.i.ty of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius Caesar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the _Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: _Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appet.i.te, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._ and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.

But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid a.s.sa_ our nicer _Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar _Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and _Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, a.s.sure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their _Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been subst.i.tuted instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature.

And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_ as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold _Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of _Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.

What Care and Circ.u.mspection should attend the choice and collection of _Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_ is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly _Cicutae_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and _Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, (_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_; _Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Pal.u.s.tral Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nouris.h.i.+ng_ and _Refres.h.i.+ng_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_ [48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_ (a little chang'd)

_Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_, _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_.

The Ill.u.s.trious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what [50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_ or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_: Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_ feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, pa.s.sing for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects.