Captain Cook Part 8

On a boat being sent it was at once put on board, the man walking off without saying a word, and this was the only thing which was stolen while the s.h.i.+p lay there. Some houses, similar to those of the Friendly Islands, were seen, with plantations of cocoanuts, plantains, yams, and bread-fruit, and a number of pigs were running about.

Other parts of the sh.o.r.e were visited, but the people kept aloof; and not till the s.h.i.+p was under way did they come off, showing then every disposition to trade, and acting with scrupulous honesty. Sometimes, for instance, they had received articles, and not having given anything in return, their canoes being shoved off by their companions, they used every exertion to get back to the s.h.i.+p. They were the most ugly, ill-proportioned people the explorers had yet seen; dark-coloured and rather diminutive, with long heads, flat faces, and monkey-like countenances. Their hair was black or brown, short and curly, but not so soft or woolly as that of a negro. Their beards were strong, crisp, and bushy. A belt round the middle curiously contracted that part of the body, while, with the exception of a wrapper between the legs, they went naked. The women wore a petticoat, and a bag over their shoulders in which the children were carried; but none came near the s.h.i.+p. A piece of white stone, an inch and a half long, with a slight curve in it, was worn in a hole made through the nose. Their arms were clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. Some of the officers were very nearly poisoned by eating portions of two reddish fish, the size of large bream, caught with hook and line. They were seized with violent pains in the head and bones, attended by a scorching heat all over the body, and a numbness of the joints. A pig and dog died from eating the remainder. It was a week or ten days before the officers quite recovered. The crews of Quiros had suffered in the same way. He had named the fish Porgos.

A number of islands were now pa.s.sed, to which the names of Montagu, Sandwich, Hitchinbrook, and Shepherd were given; the s.h.i.+p continuing along the coast to the south-east.

On August 3 the Resolution approached another island, and anch.o.r.ed about a mile from the sh.o.r.e, when several natives attempted to swim off to her, but a boat being lowered they returned. The next morning the captain went off to the sh.o.r.e in search of wood and water, with presents which he distributed among some people who appeared on the rocks which line the coast. In return, they offered, as he supposed with a friendly feeling, to drag the boat through the surf on sh.o.r.e; but he declined the offer, wis.h.i.+ng to have a better place to land at. This he found on a sandy beach, in a bay where he could land without wetting his feet. To this spot crowds followed him, headed by a chief, who made them form a semicircle, while with only a green branch in his hand Cook stepped on sh.o.r.e. The chief was loaded with presents, which he received courteously; and when, by signs, water and fruit were asked for, he immediately sent for some. Still, as all the people were armed with clubs, spears, bows and arrows, the captain was suspicious of their intentions, and kept his eye on the chief. Again signs were made by the natives that they would haul the boat up, and just then the chief disappeared among the crowd. On this, Cook stepped back into the boat, making signs that he would soon return. The islanders, however, had no intention of allowing him to depart, so while some of them laid hold of the gang-board, and attempted to drag up the boat on to the beach, others s.n.a.t.c.hed at the oars, and tried to wrest them away from the sailors. In this predicament, and seeing that neither expostulations nor menaces were of any avail, the captain raised his musket, pointed it at the chief, who had again made his appearance, and pulled the trigger; but, as on a former occasion, the piece missed fire, or only flashed in the pan. The savages then began throwing stones and darts, and shooting their arrows. The captain now felt compelled to order his men to fire.

The first discharge threw the savages into confusion, but even a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach, and they then retired behind trees and bushes, popping out every now and then to throw a dart.

Four lay to all appearances dead; but two managed to crawl behind the bushes. Happily, half the muskets missed fire, or more would have been wounded. One of the boat's crew was badly wounded in the cheek by a dart, and an arrow shot from a distance struck Mr Gilbert. The skirmish ended by the English making good their retreat.

On the arrival of the party on board, the s.h.i.+p was got under way and stood closer in sh.o.r.e; and presently two of the natives appeared with two oars which had been lost in the scuffle. In a fit of exasperation, probably on account of the treatment he had received, and of mortification at his partial defeat, Captain Cook ordered a round shot to be fired at the men, which, though it proved harmless, had the effect of driving the men away. They left the oars, however, leaning against some bushes.

The whole of this unhappy affair seems to have been a series of misunderstandings. At least, it is not difficult to conceive that the natives were, at first, friendly disposed; that their offer to haul the boat upon the beach may have been dictated by kind motives, and that their subsequent conduct arose from what they might have conceived to be the suspicious actions of their strange and uninvited visitors. As to their being armed, and declining to lay down their arms, it is to be remembered that the English had arms also, which they did not lay down.

It certainly does not seem improbable that if the chief of these poor barbarians and the English captain could have interchanged a few words, intelligible on both sides, and so convinced each other of their honest intentions and wishes, the subsequent fracas might have been prevented; but this, of course, was out of the question. It is to be feared, too, that the superiority over all uncivilised nations which the English voyagers proudly felt themselves to possess gave an air of contemptuous defiance to their actions which the natives might resent. The firing of that last shot was not unlikely (together with the previous scuffle) to provoke feelings of deep enmity, and not only to rankle in the minds and memories of those present, but to be handed down by tradition to the next generation, and the next after that, so as to keep up both detestation of all white men, and dread of their future visits.

These remarks are not uncalled for, nor will they be considered as without point when the name of the island is given--Erromanga; a name full of painful a.s.sociations to all who take an interest in missionary enterprise, and in the advancement, by human instrumentality, of the kingdom of the Redeemer. It was here that, sixty-six years afterwards, the valuable life of one of the foremost in the ranks of modern Christian missionaries, John Williams, was sacrificed to the hatred of the whites of which we have just spoken. The proximate incentive to the murder was revenge for some ill-treatment the natives had shortly before received from a white man, a sandal-wood trader; but it is probable that the commencement of their strong dislike to strangers may be traced to the visit of the Resolution to their native island in 1774.

After leaving Erromanga, the s.h.i.+p steered for another island, which proved to be Tanna, being directed at night by a great light which was seen at the east end of it, and which, in the morning, was discovered to be that of a volcano in full activity. A harbour was found, and two boats, well armed, were sent in to sound. Here the s.h.i.+p anch.o.r.ed. A number of armed natives were seen on sh.o.r.e, and soon they began to come off, some swimming, others in canoes. Some cocoanuts were thrown into one of the boats, and cloths and other articles were given in return.

This induced more to venture alongside, when they proved themselves to be most daring thieves; some attempted to knock off the rings from the rudder, others tried to tear away the fly of the ensign, and a bold effort was made to run away with the buoys. A musketoon fired over their heads had the effect of driving them off. Even here there was an exception to the rule. An old man continually came off to the s.h.i.+p with fruit, evidently trying to ingratiate himself with the strangers.

Although a very strong party landed in the evening, it was clear to the voyagers that the natives would have attacked them, had they not, to avoid bloodshed, quickly embarked. As it was necessary to take in a fresh supply of wood and water, the s.h.i.+p was warped in close to the sh.o.r.e, both to overawe the natives, and more easily to get on board what was wanted. The natives again quickly manifested their thievish propensities. For instance, a man came off with a club, with which he struck the s.h.i.+p's side in defiance, and then offered to exchange the weapon for beads. No sooner, however, did he get them, than he made off without giving up the club.

Captain Cook had wished for an opportunity of showing the natives the effect of firearms; some small shot were therefore sent after the thief, and several musketoons were discharged. As this did not seem to produce the desired effect, the Resolution was moored with her broadside to the sh.o.r.e, with her guns placed so as to command the whole harbour. The captain then landed, with a guard of marines and sailors, all well armed, hoping by this means to overawe the natives, who a.s.sembled in vast numbers on each side of the landing-place. Instead of being frightened by the display of strength, they began to use such threatening gestures that it was thought necessary to file upon them.

This was the signal for the guns to open from the s.h.i.+p. The savages at once dispersed, but soon came back greatly humbled in manner. The old man, whose name was Paow.a.n.g, was the only one who stood his ground, and was rewarded with gifts. Cook then drew a line on the ground, and signified to the natives that they must not pa.s.s it.

The captain had now every reason to believe that the natives were induced to be submissive, and taking old Paow.a.n.g into the forest, he explained that he wanted wood, and asked permission to cut some down.

This was readily granted, the old man begging only that he would not cut down any cocoanut trees.

The watering party meanwhile filled the casks; but still the lower orders were very troublesome. Some buckshot, fired at a man, at last brought them to order, and now everything seemed to go on pleasantly.

Paow.a.n.g even brought an axe and several other articles which had been left on sh.o.r.e; indeed, Cook's demeanour seemed to have won the respect of the savages, and it was no longer necessary to mark a barrier line, as they did not press near the tents nor incommode the English when at work. Yet, savages they were, for they acknowledged voluntarily that they were cannibals, and asked their visitors if they also did not eat the flesh of their enemies. Yet they could have no excuse for the practice, as their island abounded with pigs, and fruit of all sorts.

All this time the English were constantly on their guard; still they ran no little risk, as they made some excursions up the country, when they were threatened by parties of natives, who, however, retired when they turned towards the harbour. It is manifest, however, that the natives were not badly disposed, but were influenced by the very natural feeling of jealousy at seeing strangers, whose object they could not comprehend, attempting to penetrate their country. It would have been difficult to convince untutored savages, who had been peppered with buckshot, and fired at with bullets and cannon-b.a.l.l.s, that their white visitors were influenced by the purest feelings of philanthropy, and a disinterested desire to do them good. Fortunately, the muskets supplied to the Resolution must have been kept in very bad order, as they missed fire as often as they went off, or more lives of savages would have been sacrificed. There is no doubt, as has already been intimated, that Captain Cook had no delight in exercising cruelty towards the natives of the places he visited, and believed that he acted in self-defence when he, as he would have said, was unfortunately called upon to wound and perhaps to slay them. It may be added, also, that he frequently had great trouble in restraining the ardour of his officers, who were not troubled with so nice a conscience as the captain's regarding the lives of the savages.

On one occasion, for instance, some native boys (little mischievous urchins, no doubt) who had got into a thicket near where a party were cutting wood, and had thrown stones, were fired at by some of the petty officers. The captain was very much displeased at so wanton a use being made of firearms, and took measures, as he thought, to prevent it for the future; but not long afterwards, to his horror, he saw a sentry level his musket, and before he could cry out, the soldier had fired and shot a native dead. The marine's only excuse was that he saw a native bending his bow, an act they often performed without intending to shoot.

After all, the sentry did not kill the man who bent the bow, but another who was standing near.

Among the excursions made by the officers was one towards the volcano, which, however, they could not reach. It was in such furious eruption that the air was filled with dust and ashes, and when it rained they were covered with mud. On their way they pa.s.sed a spot emitting columns of smoke, and near the harbour hot springs were discovered; a thermometer placed in one of them rose to 170 degrees.

Although the people of this island had no notion of the use of iron, they were not so savage as at first appeared; their plantations were carefully cultivated, and produced sugar-canes and yams, bread-fruit, plantains, and cocoanuts. They had, however, one of the chief characteristics of savages--the women carried all the burdens, and were compelled to do every description of hard work. Though dark, they had not the peculiarities of the negro race, but they made themselves darker than they were by painting their skins. They differed in many respects from the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, both in appearance and language. Their dwellings were of some size, but had no walls, being merely roofs--looking like those of English barns taken off their walls and placed on the ground. Their canoes were tolerably well constructed, but though their sh.o.r.es abounded with fish, they had no notion of catching them with nets or lines, the only way being to spear them as they swam by.

On the morning of August 20 the s.h.i.+p left Resolution Harbour, [so-called by Captain Cook, because the Resolution had anch.o.r.ed there,] in Tanna, and continued the survey along the coasts of this extensive group of islands. A large number of natives were seen at the south-west side of Mallicollo, and on the opposite sh.o.r.e a brief communication was held with apparently another race of people, who came off in numerous small outrigger canoes. Though gifts were handed to them, they could not be induced to come up the side, or even to take hold of a rope.

The scenery of the coast in all directions was much admired; the vegetation was most luxuriant; every hill was chequered with plantations, and every valley was watered by a sparkling stream. The survey of the group being at length completed, the Resolution stood away towards New Zealand. The supposed continent of Quiros had dwindled into a small island, and, as Captain Cook took his departure from the south-west point in lat.i.tude 15 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 165 degrees 59 minutes, he named it Cape Lisbourne. The Resolution continued her course to the south-west, from September 1 till the 4th, when land was discovered bearing south-south-west, and extending round for some leagues. Breakers were seen half-way between the s.h.i.+p and the sh.o.r.e, and inside them were several canoes, evidently coming off, but as night fell they returned. The night was spent in standing off and on the land, and the next morning, the boats having discovered a channel through the reef, the s.h.i.+p stood in and came to anchor. She was immediately surrounded by a number of natives, who came off in eighteen canoes. They were entirely unarmed, and apparently well disposed. Some presents were thrown to them, for which they offered two stale fish in return, and, confidence being established, numbers crowded on board.

Some were asked into the cabin to dinner. They showed, however, no curiosity to taste the pea-soup, salt beef, or pork, but ate some yams.

Except a curious wrapper generally in use these people were entirely naked. They seemed intelligent, and examined with considerable interest the goats, hogs, dogs, and cats on board, which, it was evident, they had never before seen. They valued spike-nails and cloth of all colours, but red cloth they preferred. A young chief was seen in one of the canoes, but did not come on board. After dinner, Captain Cook, accompanied by a native, landed with two armed boats' crews. The beach was thronged with people, and the native pointed out those to whom presents should be given, mostly old men; among them was the chief, Teabooma, who soon calling for silence addressed the people, apparently in favour of the strangers. All the chiefs in succession made speeches, the old men giving a grunt and a nod of approbation at the end of each sentence. The captain kept his eyes on the people all the time, and was completely convinced of their good intentions. Having made signs that water was wanting, his native friend conducted them along the coast, lined with mangroves, to a creek, on going up which, above the mangroves, a straggling village appeared; the ground around being laid out in well cultivated plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and other roots, watered by rills conducted from the main stream, whose source was in the hills. Here was an abundance of fresh water. Among other things, some roots were seen baking in an earthen jar, holding from six to eight gallons, apparently manufactured by the natives. On their way Mr Forster shot a duck, which the native begged to have, that he might explain to his countrymen how it was killed. The party returned on board at sunset, convinced that they were not likely to obtain provisions at the place, as it did not appear to produce more than the inhabitants themselves required, although it was clear that they were ready to give what they could, for a more obliging, civil, pleasant people had not been met with during the voyage. Hundreds came on board the s.h.i.+p, but not a theft was committed. One of them, who had attached himself to Captain Cook, brought some roots; a few of the others had weapons, such as clubs and darts, which they willingly exchanged for nails and pieces of cloth. A present had been made up for Teabooma, who, however, slipped out of the s.h.i.+p, and lost it. A good watering-place was found, not far off, up a creek; but as only a small boat could enter it the casks were rolled over the beach, and put on board the launch. Plenty of fuel could also be procured.

An excursion on sh.o.r.e gave the explorers a better idea of the island than they could otherwise have possessed. They were accompanied by several natives, the numbers increasing as they advanced, till they had a large _cortege_. Reaching the summit of a rocky hill, the sea was observed in two places on the opposite side between the heights, thus enabling them to calculate the width of the island. Below them was a large valley, through which ran a river, on whose banks were several villages and plantations, while the flat land which lay along the sh.o.r.e appeared to great advantage; the winding streams running through it, the plantations, the little straggling villages, the variety in the woods, the shoals on the coast, with the blue sea and the white breakers, made up a very beautiful and picturesque scene. The country in general bore a strong resemblance to parts of New Holland, under the same lat.i.tude; several of its natural productions appeared to be the same; while the forests, as in that country, were without underwood. The general aspect of the island was, however, that of a dreary waste; the sides of the mountains and other places being of hard rock, or of a thin soil baked by the sun. Even these unpromising spots were, however, covered with a coa.r.s.e gra.s.s, which though of no use, as there were no cattle to feed on it, would afford pasture to numberless sheep if they were to be introduced into the island. There was a good supply of fish on the coast; but one day a somewhat ugly-looking one being dressed for supper, the captain and the two Mr Forsters, though they did but taste the liver and roe, were seized with a numbness and weakness over their limbs. An emetic and a sudorific considerably relieved them by the morning, but a pig which ate the fish died. A native who had sold the fish did not warn the buyer, though its poisonous character seems to have been known to the people, for, on seeing the skin hanging up the next morning, they expressed their utmost abhorrence of it, and intimated that it was not fit to eat. The captain was anxious to benefit the people as far as his short stay would allow; he, therefore, presented a dog and a b.i.t.c.h to Teabooma, who seemed delighted with the gift; indeed, he could scarcely suppose that the animals were for him.

A boar and a sow were also intended for him, but as he was not then to be found they were given to another chief, or head man, and his family, who promised to take care of them. These people had made some advance out of the purely savage state. Their dwellings were circular, very thickly thatched, something like a beehive, and very close and warm.

Many had two fireplaces, and some had two storeys, spread with mats and gra.s.s. As the entrance was very small, and there was no other outlet for the smoke, the heat was intolerable. It was strange that natives of so hot a climate should delight in all the extra heat they could get.

Outside the huts were little pyramids, five together. On the point of the pyramids the clay pots in which they cooked their food were placed, not upright, but on the sides, the fire being lighted beneath. The canoes of the islanders were large, but rude and clumsy in build; and they constructed double canoes formed of the trunks of two trees fastened together, much in the fas.h.i.+on of the other double canoes of the Pacific. They had sometimes one, and sometimes two, lateen sails, composed of pieces of matting, the ropes being made of the coa.r.s.e filaments of the plantain tree. When they could not sail they were propelled by sculls, the handles of which rose, nearly upright, four feet above the deck.

On standing down the coast, some objects were seen which the scientific gentlemen insisted were basaltic pillars, like those of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland, contrary to the opinion of the captain, who held that they were trees of a peculiar growth. An island was discovered to the south of the large island, and the name of the Isle of Pines was given to it, on account of the number of tall trees growing thereon, and which the philosophers still maintained were basaltic pillars. It was not without some difficulty that, at length, the s.h.i.+p got near enough to the Isle of Pines to enable the captain, with a party of officers, to land on one of the islets connected with it. The objects observed were found to be a species of spruce pine, admirably fitted for masts and spars. After dinner, therefore, two boats went on sh.o.r.e with the carpenter and his crew, and as many spars as were required were cut down. It was of this tree that the natives made their canoes. The island on which the party landed was called Botany Island.

The Resolution got under way on October 1. Soon afterwards a gale sprang up, which, in spite of all the exertions which could be made, rendered the further survey of the group impossible. She therefore bore away for New Zealand.

New Caledonia, thus discovered, Captain Cook considered to be, with the exception of New Zealand, the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean, being about eighty-seven leagues long, extending from the north-west to south-east, that is, from lat.i.tude 19 degrees 37 minutes to 22 degrees 30 minutes South, and from longitude 163 degrees 37 minutes to 167 degrees 14 minutes East, although its width is nowhere very considerable.

The s.h.i.+p stood on about west-south-west till October 10, when land was discovered--an island of good height, five leagues in circuit, to which, as a compliment to the family of Howard, the name of Norfolk Island was given. The s.h.i.+p stood in, when after dinner two boats landed without difficulty behind some large rocks. The island was found to be uninhabited, and probably no human being had ever before set foot on its sh.o.r.e. Many trees and plants common in New Zealand were observed, especially the flax plant, which here appeared to be more luxuriant than in any part of that country. A spruce pine also grew in abundance, and to a great size, and there were also found a number of cabbage palms.

They had large pinnated leaves, and the cabbage is, properly speaking, the bad of the tree. Each tree produces but one crown, which grows out of the stem, and by cutting this out the tree is destroyed. As many as could be collected were carried on board, and proved very welcome. The voyage to New Zealand was then continued.

On October 17 Mount Egmont was seen, and the next day the s.h.i.+p anch.o.r.ed at the entrance of s.h.i.+p Cove, a strong wind preventing her getting in.

The day after she warped up, and being moored, the usual preparations were made for carrying on operations on sh.o.r.e. The forge was set up, and coopers' and sail-makers' tents were erected. For several days no natives appeared. The gardens were visited, and several of the plants were in a flouris.h.i.+ng condition. When the natives did appear their conduct was very strange. At first they kept at a distance, with their weapons in their hands; but when they recognised Captain Cook and his officers, they danced and skipped about like madmen, though even then they would not let any of their women come near.

Several of them talked about killing, but their language was so imperfectly understood that no meaning could at first be gathered from what they said. The following story was made out, however, before long:--The natives said that a s.h.i.+p like the Resolution had been lost in the strait, and that some of the people got on sh.o.r.e, when the natives stole their clothes, for which several were shot; that afterwards, when the sailors could fire no longer, the natives rushed in and killed them with their clubs and spears, and ate them. The narrators declared that they themselves had no hand in the matter, which occurred at some distance along the coast.

Friendly relations were at once established with the natives the English had first met, who brought a good supply of fish, which they willingly exchanged for Otaheite cloth. Cook's training in the merchant service had given him some useful notions with regard to mercantile principles, and in many other cases, as well as in this, he purchased articles with the view of taking them to another market, where their value would be increased. Still, though Cook was trying to do the natives all the good in his power, it was evident that they were shy of the English. Their more intimate friends at last acknowledged that the Adventure had been there, and though the captain's mind was relieved with regard to her, he still feared that some disaster had occurred to another vessel along the coast. He probably was, as usual, on his guard, and careful in preventing any causes of dispute between his people and the natives, or he himself might have had to experience the effects of New Zealand treachery.

On November 10 the Resolution left Queen Charlotte's Sound for the last time, and steered south-by-east, with a fine wind, Cook's intention being to get into lat.i.tude 54 degrees or 55 degrees, and to cross the ocean nearly in those parallels, thus to pa.s.s over those parts which were left unexplored the previous summer.

On the evening of December 17 the west coast of Tierra del Fuego, near the entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, was made; and now Captain Cook says that he had done with the South Pacific, but he had a sound s.h.i.+p and a healthy crew, and he resolved to accomplish some more work before returning home. Among other things, he made a survey of the coasts he was now on. Nothing could be more desolate than those sh.o.r.es.

They seemed entirely composed of rocky mountains, without the least appearance of vegetation, the mountains terminating in horrible precipices, while their craggy summits shot up to a vast height. The mountains seen inland were covered with snow, but those nearer the sea coasts were free from it. The former were supposed to belong to the mainland of Tierra del Fuego, while the latter were probably islands.

The s.h.i.+p at length was brought to an anchor, on December 20, in one of the numerous harbours in which the otherwise inhospitable-looking coast abounds. This was called Christmas Sound, as the s.h.i.+p remained at anchor during Christmas Day. An abundance of wild-fowl were shot here, so that the Christmas fare consisted of roast and boiled geese, goose pie, goose stew, and goose in every form which could be thought of, accompanied, in the cabin, by some Madeira, the only article of their provisions which had improved by keeping.

Some natives made their appearance here in nine canoes. They were a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. They were almost naked, their clothing being merely two or three seal-skins, sewed together to form a cloak reaching to the knee. Most of them had only one seal-skin, and the women had a sort of ap.r.o.n, but in other respects were clothed like the men. Some young children were seen entirely naked, so that they must be inured to cold and hards.h.i.+ps from their infancy. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, fitted to a staff. These were probably intended to kill fish and seals, or perhaps whales, as the Esquimaux do. That they were accustomed to the use of train oil the noses of the officers had powerful evidence; indeed, it was far from pleasant to approach them. Their canoes were made of bark, and in each was a fire, round which the women and children huddled. There was also a large seal-skin, perhaps to form a covering to a hut on sh.o.r.e. As these people seemed well acquainted with Europeans, it was considered probable that they moved during the winter more to the northward. They called themselves Pecheras, at least that word was continually in their mouths. "Of all the people I have ever seen, these Pecheras are the most wretched," says Cook; "they are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as might render life in some measure more comfortable." Yet, unattractive as were these people, they had souls as precious in the sight of a loving Saviour as those of the more intelligent and attractive inhabitants of Otaheite. It was in the attempt to carry the glad tidings of salvation to people such as these that the n.o.ble-minded Captain Allan Gardiner lost his life; and it is for the sake of people sunk as low as were these in the scale of humanity that missionaries are labouring in many other parts of the earth.

A good supply of wood and water having been obtained at Christmas Sound, the Resolution got under way again on the 28th, and steered towards Cape Horn, which she rounded the next morning. She now steered East by North a half East for the Straits of Le Maire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to ascertain if the Adventure had been there. A boat, commanded by Lieutenant Pickersgill, was sent on sh.o.r.e, but no traces of her were found. A notice, however, was left nailed to a tree, in case Captain Furneaux should afterwards touch there. Some natives appeared who behaved very courteously to Lieutenant Pickersgill, and made signs to him to bring in the s.h.i.+p. The bay was full of whales and seals; indeed, great numbers had been seen in the straits. At last, the Resolution came to an anchor near an island, on which seals had been observed. After dinner three boats were hoisted out and landed with a large party of men, some to kill seals or sea-lions, and others to kill or catch birds, fish, or whatever came in their way. The sea-lions, with which the island was covered, were so unaccustomed to the sight of man that they did not attempt to escape, and were knocked on the head with sticks and clubs. The only danger was by getting between them and the water, when, as they came floundering on, they were likely to knock down and rush over any one thus placed. A large supply of sea-lions, bears, geese, and ducks was soon obtained. The old lions were killed solely for the sake of their blubber, from which oil was extracted, for their flesh was abominable, but that of the cubs was considered very good, and even that of the lionesses was not amiss.

Once more, on January 3, 1775, the Resolution was at sea, steering an easterly course, in search of land said to exist in about the lat.i.tude 53 degrees or 54 degrees. At nine o'clock on the morning of the 13th land was seen by a man named Willis. At first it was taken for an iceberg, but on their drawing nearer the appearance changed, and soundings being found, with a muddy bottom, at one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, there was no doubt that it was really land, and the name of the discoverer was given to it. Pa.s.sing between Willis Island and another islet, called Bird Island, land was seen extending for a considerable distance. The s.h.i.+p ranged along it, about a league from the sh.o.r.e, for part of two days, till an inlet appeared, towards which the s.h.i.+p steered. Instead, however, of the s.h.i.+p going in, a boat was hoisted out, and the captain, with Mr Forster and others, embarked in her to survey the bay. They landed in three different places, displayed the British flag, and took possession of the country in his Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms.

The appearance of the territory thus added to the dominion of Great Britain was not attractive. The head of the bay, as well as two portions on either side, consisted of perpendicular ice cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off and floating out to sea, and even while they were in the bay huge ma.s.ses fell which made a noise like the discharge of a cannon. The inner parts of the country were not less savage and horrible. Wild rocks raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and even the valleys were covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor even a shrub big enough to make a toothpick. The only vegetation met with was a coa.r.s.e, strong-bladed gra.s.s, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprang from the rocks.

Seals or sea-bears were pretty numerous, and so were penguins; some very large, weighing from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds, were brought on board. At first it was hoped that the land now discovered was part of a great continent, but by going partly round it it was discovered to be an island of about seventy leagues in circuit, and the name of the Isle of Georgia was given to it. It seemed to answer very little purpose, for though the island lies between the lat.i.tudes of 54 degrees and 55 degrees, the whole coast was a ma.s.s of ice and snow even in the middle of summer. "The disappointment I felt did not, I must confess, affect me much," says Cook, "for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not be worth the discovery." Various other islets and rocks were seen, when, believing that no other discovery of importance would be made thereabouts, on January 25 the Resolution continued her course, steering east-south-east.

On the 31st several islands and a considerable extent of land were discovered, to which the name of Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, was given, as it was the most southern land then known. It showed a surface of great height, everywhere covered with snow. While the Resolution was close in with this coast, the wind fell, and left her to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon the sh.o.r.e. A line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. The weather became hazy; the coast could not be seen. A most fearful wreck now seemed inevitable, when the fog cleared away, and a point (Cape Bristol) appeared, bearing east-south-east, beyond which no land could be seen. This discovery relieved the explorers from the dread of being carried by the swell on to one of the most horrible coasts in the world. After undergoing this and similar fearful risks, it was scarcely necessary for Cook to make any apology for leaving this inhospitable region, and proceeding in search of the long-sought-for Cape Circ.u.mcision. He sailed over and round the spot where it was said to lie, and became thoroughly convinced that no cape, indeed no land, lies thereabouts. He was soon sure that if there was land it would only be a small island, from the long southerly swell which was found in that lat.i.tude.

What we are most struck with is the hardihood and fine seamans.h.i.+p displayed by Captain Cook and his officers in this run across the Antarctic Ocean. It was the summer season, and the nights were short; but they had to encounter storms and bitter cold, ice, and snow, and hail, with the risk, at any moment, of running on an iceberg or some hidden rock; but still greater was the risk when such inhospitable sh.o.r.es as those of Tierra del Fuego, or Staten Island, or the Isle of Georgia, or Southern Thule were to be explored.

A course was now steered for the Cape of Good Hope, greatly to the delight of all on board. On March 16 two sails were seen in the north-west, standing westward, one of them under Dutch colours, a sign that they were once more approaching civilised regions. In the evening land was seen. In pursuance of his instructions, the captain now demanded of the officers and petty officers the log-books and journals which they had kept, and which were sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. The officers and men were also especially charged not to say where they had been until they had received the permission of the Lords of the Admiralty.

Several other s.h.i.+ps were now met with, one of which proved to be the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China, bound direct home. With that liberality for which commanders of East India Company's s.h.i.+ps were famed, Captain Broadly sent on board the Resolution a present of a supply of fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were most acceptable. A heavy gale kept the Resolution from entering the harbour.

At length, however, on Wednesday, March 22, according to the s.h.i.+p's reckoning, but with the people on sh.o.r.e Tuesday, the 21st, she anch.o.r.ed in Table Bay. Finding an East India Company's s.h.i.+p homeward bound, Captain Cook sent by her a copy of his journal, charts, and other drawings, to reduce the risk of the result of his enterprise being lost.

He also found here a letter from Captain Furneaux, from which the mysterious conduct of the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound was completely explained. It was as follows:--On December 17, 1773, the large cutter, with ten men under charge of Mr Rowe, a mids.h.i.+pman, had been sent on sh.o.r.e to gather greens for the s.h.i.+p's company, with orders to return that evening. On their non-appearance another boat was sent, under the command of Lieutenant Barney, when the mutilated remains of the cutter's crew were discovered, some parts scattered about on the beach, and others carefully packed with fern leaves, in baskets, evidently intended for the oven. It was clear that some quarrel had arisen, and that after the unfortunate men had discharged their muskets they had been clubbed by the natives. It was afterwards discovered, by the acknowledgment of the natives, that they themselves had been the aggressors, having stolen some of the seamen's clothes, and that then they pretended to make up the quarrel, but that finding the party seated at dinner, and utterly unsuspicious of evil, they had rushed down on them and killed them all. After this misfortune the Adventure sailed for the Cape of Good Hope, and thence returned to England.

Captain Cook speaks of the great courtesy and kindness he received from the Dutch authorities, as well as from the residents, and of the abundance of good provisions which he obtained. On April 27, the repairs of the s.h.i.+p being completed, the Resolution sailed in company with the Dutton, East Indiaman, for Saint Helena, and was saluted with thirteen guns. She was also saluted by a Spanish and Danish Indiaman as she pa.s.sed them--she, of course, returning the salutes.

At daylight on May 15 the island of Saint Helena was sighted. It, at that time, belonged to the East India Company, and was laid out chiefly in pasture, in order that their s.h.i.+ps might here obtain supplies of fresh meat.