Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51 Volume I Part 13

I treated them to supper--in fact, I am obliged to feed all strangers, as well as a good number of the caravan. Of feeding these people, as of giving them presents, verily there is no end. To travel comfortably in the desert, it would be necessary to possess Fortunatus' purse or Aladdin's lamp.

During the night these strange fellows disappeared, which circ.u.mstance naturally aroused our suspicions. About two in the morning the Kailouees, wis.h.i.+ng to start early, began to bustle about in the dark, in order to collect their camels. They could not find any of them. Great was the consternation. The Tanelk.u.ms instantly ran to their drove, of which three only were missing, and ours also were found to be safe. They have driven the camels off, in order to prevent our progress, and give time to the enemy to come up.

_24th._--We naturally pa.s.sed the remainder of the night in the greatest anxiety of mind, feeling sure that a crisis was now approaching. At about six in the morning, four men, mounted on maharees, came riding towards us, and drawing near, boldly summoned our escort to deliver up the Christians, with all their baggage and camels. The insolence of this small body a.s.sured us that they had some force at hand; but we boldly told them to go about their business, as we were resolved to defend ourselves to the last.

Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of about forty men, mounted on their fleet maharees, and equipped for war with spears, s.h.i.+elds, and swords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing with wild cries, and challenging our caravan to battle. When the first few moments of surprise had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with matchlocks, pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, and shouted out that they accepted the challenge. This bold movement staggered the a.s.sailants, who forthwith began to waver and retire. They had evidently expected to overawe us by boasting. Our people, satisfied with the effect of their manoeuvre, retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently a small body of the enemy advanced as a deputation, demanding to parley, and declaring that they did not come to fight against people of their own faith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch along the hills on either hand, as if to hem us in completely, but kept at a respectful distance. They saw that we were too strong for them, but called out that they would go and fetch more people.

The conferences were now fairly opened, and we found that the hostile troop was composed of a collection of all the Sheikhs of the neighbouring districts, with their followers, and several regular bandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our people understood at once that the affair was far more serious than they had antic.i.p.ated, and began to be downhearted. They knew that they could not proceed without their camels, and from their expressions and looks I could foresee that the matter at last would have to be ended by a compromise.

The enemy made various propositions, more or less agreeable to our ears.

The first was simply that we, as infidels, should be given up to be put to death--an idea which, luckily, n.o.body seemed to consider proper or feasible. They then insisted that we should pa.s.s on no further, but should return by the way we had come--also declined. Next, they demanded that we should become Muslims--a proposition which our people refused even to mention to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our goods and baggage,--no doubt their ultimate object.

When they found that we would not agree to any of their proposals, but were determined rather to resist by the strong hand, a compromise was agreed upon. We paid them in goods to the value of three hundred and fifty reals, or about fifty pounds sterling, in order to get back our camels and be allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our caravan lost nine animals; so that the Kailouees suffer more even than we do. We were obliged to put up with all this, and were glad enough when the Shereef Marabout at length professed himself satisfied, and volunteered his protection for the future.

A wild and lawless set are these borderers of Aheer. The gathering was evidently a spontaneous one of all the blackguards of the country. Even the marabout complains, that during the expedition he has lost his burnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he was saying his prayers, pious man!

and beseeching for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on his knees, when a fellow of his troop came softly up behind, appropriated his things, mounted his camel, and fled away--"whist," he says, like the wind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no more. By the way, the three Azghers were frightened, or corrupted, in the morning, and went over to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; and when some shots were fired by the enemy, by way of bravado and to expedite the conferences, one of their muskets was brought into play, and of course my powder! I am happy to reflect, however, that they got none of the booty this time, and have "'filed their minds" for nought.

As soon as we got back our camels we proposed to, move on, our people evincing the greatest anxiety to get away from a place where such disagreeable things had happened. We accordingly marched about two hours, the marabouts accompanying us, and then pitched tent for the night. Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a flight of ill-omened birds, and it was said that another troop of people were collecting further on to intercept our pa.s.sage to Soudan. During this halt, grave conferences were held between the Kailouee merchant, En-Noor, and the marabout, on the subject of these fresh reports. It turned out that there were several people in the neighbourhood who were dissatisfied that they had not shared in the booty, and might prove troublesome. About thirty reals' worth of things were accordingly selected for them.

_25th._--We started before daylight, and advanced about nine hours, pitching tent in the afternoon at three. Our people are in better spirits, antic.i.p.ating the termination of the journey. However, we are not yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelk.u.ms, our companions, begin to show symptoms of discontent, and in the evening I was obliged to make presents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us, and suffered much anxiety on our account.

Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form our southern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothing now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-trees of gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside, sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camels greedily devour the luxuriant _bou rekaba_.

_26th._--As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed to us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men, mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation.

We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were covered with a mult.i.tude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed down towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the group of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that it abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest stopping to gaze at us as we pa.s.sed. We discovered, however, only three black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,--the first I have seen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attempt to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur, where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky bed of the wady. A group of five a.s.ses had been driven down to it to drink.

As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person of consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us.

He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our protection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the evening we encamped in an open s.p.a.ce clear of the trees, where we could see all around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we established when a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did not attack us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. They consisted of the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless men sc.r.a.ped together from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who were anxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City of Marabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men to protect them and us. The night was spent in conference instead of in repose. The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come to harm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, or ever should, pa.s.s through their country. This proposition was at once, as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protecting marabouts. What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion?

Matters having come to this point, our escort, camel-drivers and servants, could not but communicate to us the demand made--namely, that we should change our religion or return by the way we had come. This time, likewise, even our own servants prayed that we would accept the proposition, or seem to accept it, if only for a few days, to deliver ourselves from present danger. My colleagues, and particularly Dr.

Barth, indignantly and pa.s.sionately resisted. For my part, I looked upon the affair with a little more calm, the same thing having occurred to me on a former occasion in these deserts. I told our people that we would pay the tribute imposed by the Mahometan law on infidels, or for our pa.s.sage through the country, or else that we would take our chance and return. Upon this our servants exclaimed, with tears in their eyes, "To return would be certain death!" There was now nothing left for me to do but to say, with my colleagues, that we would wait patiently for death, but that to change our religion was impossible.

Although, of course, the threats that were made against us could not but produce considerable uneasiness, I always felt pretty sure that the Sheikhs did not exactly mean what they said, and would come at last, as had the others, to a money compromise. Yet, during the absence of our people, who took the message that we were ready to die for the honour of our country and religion, I pa.s.sed, as did my friends the Germans, a most distressing half hour. Every sound we heard seemed to be that of people approaching to attack us. At length we heard voices, through the darkness. Our amba.s.sadors were coming back with the message: "It is arranged, O Consuls, that you shall pay a certain sum of money!"

Children of the desert, you are not the only ones who make a demand for conscience sake, and then compound for cas.h.!.+

We only afterwards learned how this negotiation was carried on with the enemy. Some dramatic scenes were reported to us by our servants as occurring between our escort and the a.s.sailing troop, mixed with marabouts. En-Noor, on returning from us after we had declared that we would die for our religion, drew his sword and cast it on the ground before the people, calling out to the other Kailouees, "Come now, let us all die with the Christians!" On the other hand, the fiercest of the enemy every now and then got up and made as if they would rush at once and spear us in our tents. Then there was reasoning of every description, and tremendous quotations from the Koran. The most humane proposed that we should have ten days' grace to reflect on our situation before we were put to death. Our servants, who behaved well all through this trying business, made a reasonable proposition, that we should be taken to Tintalous to the great Sultan En-Noor, who should decide upon our case. But this did not suit the purpose of these pious propagandists of the Muslim faith, who swore that the book ordered them to slaughter the unbelievers, and at length were graciously pleased to accept the sum of thirty-five pounds sterling in goods!

_27th._--In the morning we wished to start at once, and get away from this scene of our second disaster; but we had to stay to select the goods which were to pay for our lives, liberties, and consciences.

However, we at length got off; and whilst the bandits were swearing, and griping one another by the throat, and fighting over the booty, we pushed hastily on towards Seloufeeat, which, according to our Tanelk.u.ms, is really the first country of Asben. As we entered the valley our people kept up a running fire, to alarm any one who might feel disposed to attack us. We had been so much accustomed to inhospitality and robbers of late, that we confidently expected further difficulties as soon as we met with the inhabitants.

After a march of four hours we arrived, and encamped in the neighbourhood of Seloufeeat. The valley has quite a Soudan appearance, but solely on account of the presence of the doom palm. There are, however, a considerable number of other trees, particularly the souak, the branches of which are eaten voraciously by our camels. It has beautiful green foliage, and is very bushy and spreading. Wheat, and ghaseb, and other grain are grown in the valley, where there is abundance of good water. The wells are like those of Ghadamez,--that is to say, an upright beam with a long cross-pole, having a stone at one end and a rope and bucket at the other, serves to bring up the water.

We found here a caravan about to proceed direct to Mourzuk, and I seized the opportunity to write by it to Government and to my wife. During the night some mischievous people again drove away all the camels of the Kailouees, as well as ours. This disturbed us much, and we antic.i.p.ated fresh extortion and plunder; but we were a.s.sured that we had now nothing serious to apprehend.

_28th._--We stopped here all day to get back our camels. The caravan was delayed, and I wrote a detailed account of our two affairs to Government.

A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat this morning, having heard, probably, of our arrival. By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom we expect an answer to-morrow.

In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees were still missing, and six of ours. Nevertheless, our people determined to go on next morning.

I felt much discouraged this evening. A succession of bad affairs was constantly contradicting the a.s.surances of our escort and their friends; the people of Seloufeeat were also excessively troublesome: there seemed no one in the place having authority. At last, near sunset, came forward a certain Haj Bashaw, declaring that we had all been too badly treated, and he would obtain for us redress. This man has considerable wealth, and is in constant communication with Mourzuk, where he sends numbers of slaves, and possesses property. He probably began to quake for his property in Mourzuk, fearing the Turks would make reprisals. I went to bed with the a.s.surance of this man that he would get back for us our camels; nevertheless, having been deceived a thousand times, I had my misgivings. Yet I did not forget we had twice been delivered out of the hands of bandits by our escort and friends, so that we ought not to despair of seeing a brighter and a quieter time. After midnight I had a few hours of refres.h.i.+ng sleep.

CHAPTER XV.

Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced Pa.s.sage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food.

_Aug. 29th._--I rose early, and heard the good news that the camels missing in the first affair were found and brought to our people. This filled everybody with good spirits, and we got off as soon as we could from Seloufeeat. We were obliged to leave the boat in the charge of a faithful inhabitant, to fetch as soon, as we arrived at Tintaghoda.

Before starting, Haj Bashaw made Yusuf write a letter in his name to Mourzuk, to the Bashaw Mustapha and Makersee, declaring that he had not had any news of us or our coming, but that now we should be conducted safely up to the country of En-Noor. This is the only man who seems to have any authority in Seloufeeat: the marabouts could do little before he came forward; the people live in the wildest state of lawless independence.

In the morning before starting, the Sfaxee and Yusuf came up to me and said, "All up to now was lies; but henceforth all is truth. You have nothing more to fear--there is nothing now but good." This speech I most devoutly devoured, and things certainly wore a brighter aspect this morning. But we now anxiously wait news from En-Noor.

We moved up the valley of Seloufeeat, our spirits buoyant and mounting high, whilst the air of the morning was soft and fresh, not unlike that of Italy. After two hours we arrived at the City of Marabouts, or Tintaghoda.

There is considerable variety in the physiognomy of the people of Aheer, whom we have already seen; but in general, they have agreeable countenances: and as to stature, many of them are very tall, though apparently not very robust. Some are of light olive complexion, with straight noses and thin lips; but others, indeed the great number, approximate to the negro in feature.

This portion of Aheer is still poor in provisions. Indeed, all these districts are strictly Saharan. There are fine fertile valleys, but between them are rocks and complete deserts; the trees, which somewhat change from the aspect of those in Central Sahara, are the immensely large tholukhs, some of them covered with parasitical plants; the doom palm, and the souak tree. I have also seen the ethel hereabouts.

The houses of Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have, however, a true African aspect, being thatched with leaves of the doom palm. Some of them are sheds, with a roof supported by four poles, under which the people repose in the shade by day and by night shelter themselves from noxious vapours.

The most extraordinary reports are beginning to circulate about us and our affairs. It has been confidently spread about that the three Azgher, who followed us from Tajetterat, had a letter in their possession, which they were to show to all the population beyond the Ghat territory, written by Khanouhen, to the effect that we were to be murdered, as soon as we got beyond that territory, by whomsoever the attempt might be made.

Another report is, that the sixty maharees, said to have been in pursuit of us at Taghajeet, did actually arrive at that district, but finding us too far ahead for them they returned; they came by the way of Tuat.

These Haghars were to have fallen upon us during the night, and murdered all of us, even the Tanelk.u.ms, except Oud-el-Khair and two others. There is a route which leads direct to Tuat from Taghajeet, and also another from Aisou to Tuat.

With regard to the marabouts, they seem quiet enough. It would appear there is an enormous fellow amongst them, who every year, during one night, flies to Mekka and back again.

They report to the people that, insomuch as we are recommended by the great Sultan of the Turks, Abd-el-Majeed, by the Pasha of Tripoli, and all his marabouts, by the Pasha and great marabouts of Mourzuk, by all the big and mighty people of Ghat and the Haghars, but more especially as they have found our names written in their books, and that we were to come to them and visit their holy city,--with a thousand other such reasons--they (the marabouts) have determined to receive us with open arms. The marabouts of all countries pretend to find events written plainly, or shadowed forth, in their books.

After giving away about a hundred and fifty pounds sterling, the greatest part, however, forced gifts, we have received our first present in Aheer, viz. two melons, some onions, and a small quant.i.ty of wheat this evening, from Haj Bashaw, the influential man of Seloufeeat, already mentioned. There is still a drawback in this, for the giver knew the father of Yusuf, and was anxious to show favour to his son, my interpreter. But the fact must be recorded as something wonderful.

The people of our caravan, escort and camel-drivers, offer us nothing; to them it would appear a sin to give anything to a Christian. Such are the people we travel with. In regard to the matter of presents, G.o.d give me patience with them.

_30th._--There is no answer from En-Noor, nor are our camels forthcoming; which things naturally cause us anxiety. But let us hope for the best, and pray to G.o.d to deliver us from all our misfortunes.

We wait here to-day to see the results, and proceed to-morrow. This morning I made the account of the forced pa.s.sage of the expedition from Taghajeet to this place (Marabouteen). It amounts to the enormous sum of nine hundred mahboubs--more than one hundred and fifty pounds sterling!

I do not know what Government will think of it; but the expenditure incurred was certainly to save our lives.

I gave this morning more presents to our servants, and lectured them on their duties. All things considered, they have behaved very well. When they saw the great quant.i.ty of goods given away or forced from us by strangers, they naturally began to think what there would be left for them, who always remained with us, and worked for us.

The being chief of an expedition of this kind is certainly no sinecure; but I am sure that no one who has not occupied a similar post can conceive the anxieties and disquietudes under which I have laboured during all these difficult days. Almost ever since our departure from Ghat we have been in fear, either for our lives or our property. Danger has ever hung hovering over us, sometimes averted, sometimes seeming to be turned into smoke; but within this week the strokes of ill fortune have fallen upon us with increasing fury. We try to persuade ourselves that there is now nothing more to fear, and every one joins in nursing what may be a delusion.

The marabouts indulge the vain hope that, through the influence of the great En-Noor of Tintalous, we may yet become Muslims. It would appear that the whole of the inhabitants of the village of Tintaghoda are marabouts, and so the race of saints is propagated from generation to generation. Generally, the children of the marabouts are good-looking.

It is said that some of the mischievous boys were the parties who drove off our cattle.

In spite of all the sanct.i.ty of this place, and its reputation that it is free from theft, En-Noor of our escort told us yesterday evening to watch well during the night, that our things might not be stolen.