A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 19

This rocky, sandy spot lies in lat.i.tude 25 17'. It is much frequented by aquatic birds, particularly by that species whence it obtained the name of _Curlew Islet_; and since a small s.h.i.+eld and three wooden spears were found there, it must also be visited occasionally by men. The larger island, lying to the east, is richly covered with gra.s.s and wood. Its position is nearly in the middle of the entrance to what may be called the upper bay; and as no deep channel past the island could be found on the west, I determined to try on the east side; having much difficulty in believing, that a piece of water six or seven miles in extent every way, should not have a channel into it sufficiently deep for the Norfolk.

The anchor was weighed soon after four o'clock, and several attempts made to get round the larger island; but being constantly repulsed by shoals, I was at length forced to relinquish the hope of penetrating further up Hervey's Bay. We then steered north-westward, to complete the examination of the west side down to the coast seen by captain Cook.

Aug. 7. At daylight, a sloping hummock, in lat.i.tude 24 50', bore W. 16 N., our distance off the sh.o.r.e under it being one mile and a half, and the depth 7 fathoms. At nine, the water shoaled suddenly, and obliged us to haul off north-eastward. The coast was then seen extending to the W.

N. W., and having been laid down by captain Cook, the north-eastern course was continued for Break-sea Spit, and the examination of Hervey's Bay concluded.

This inlet is about fifteen leagues across, from the sloping hummock to the eastern extremity of Sandy Cape, and nearly as much in depth. The east side is formed by a great sandy peninsula, of which the cape is the northern extremity; but about half way up, there are several white cliffs, and others in the upper bay, which had the appearance of chalk.

The sh.o.r.es at the head and on the west side are more rocky than sandy.

The back land is low for some miles, and not ill covered with gra.s.s and wood; it then rises to hills of considerable elevation, amongst which Double Mount was most remarkable. The smokes in different places bespoke the country to be inhabited in the scanty numbers usual on other parts of the east coast; but none of the people were seen.

Aug. 7, at ten in the evening, we pa.s.sed the end of Break-sea Spit in 13 fathoms, and hauled up south-east; but the winds were so unfavourable, that on the 14th our lat.i.tude was no more than 29 19'. I kept the land barely within sight, in order to obtain the greatest advantage from the southwardly current; for, contrary to captain Cook's observation, it was found to be strongest at the distance of six, and from thence to twenty leagues. Close in with the sh.o.r.e, more especially in the bights which fall within the general line of the coast, an eddy had been found setting to the northward.

Light northern winds favoured us for two days; but returning to the south-west, and sometimes blowing strong, it was the 20th in the evening before the sloop was secured in Port Jackson, although the current had set us 210 miles on the way.

I must acknowledge myself to have been disappointed in not being able to penetrate into the interior of New South Wales, by either of the openings examined in this expedition; but, however mortifying the conviction might be, it was then an ascertained fact, that no river of importance intersected the East Coast between the 24th and 39th degrees of south lat.i.tude.

CONCLUSIVE REMARKS.

The account of the discoveries which resulted from the establishment of the colony in New South Wales, closes with this expedition; and it remains only to point out what was wanted to be done in these parts of Terra Australis.

(Atlas, Plate I.)

In Van Diemen's Land, the opening round Point St. Vincent and the s.p.a.ce between Maria's Island and Cape Portland required to be further explored.

The north side also, from the want of a time keeper in the Norfolk, required to have the longitude of its points better ascertained; and that the bight between Circular Head and Cape Grim should be examined. In Ba.s.s' Strait, some of the islands were known, but the middle of the strait and its western entrance were in want of much investigation, before it could be deemed a safe pa.s.sage for s.h.i.+ps; and the greater part of the coast on the north side, remained as laid down by Mr. Ba.s.s, with all the uncertainty attending the navigation of an open boat.

On the east coast of New South Wales, from Ba.s.s' Strait to Bustard Bay in lat.i.tude 24, the sh.o.r.e might be said to be well explored; but from thence northward to Cape York, there were several portions which had either been pa.s.sed by captain Cook in the night, or at such a distance in the day time, as to render their formation doubtful: The coast from 15 30' to 14 30' was totally unknown.

The following openings or bights had been seen and named by captain Cook, but were yet unexamined: _Keppel_ and _Shoal-water Bays_; _Broad Sound_; _Repulse_, _Edgec.u.mbe_, _Cleveland_, _Halifax_, _Rockingham_, and _Weary Bays_. To the northward of these were _Weymouth_, _Temple_, _Shelburne_, and _Newcastle Bays_; and perhaps many others which distance did not permit our great navigator to notice. There was also a numerous list of islands, of which a few only had been examined; and several were merely indicated from a distant view.

From 16 northward to Cape York, an extensive chain of reefs had been found to lie at a considerable distance from the coast, without side of the islands; and two vessels from Port Jackson had met with others further south, extending nearly from 21 to 23. It was of importance to ascertain the limits of these vast bodies of coral, were it only on account of the s.h.i.+ps employed in the whale fishery; but in the view to future settlements within the tropic, it was necessary to be known whether these reefs might form such a barrier to the coast, as to render it inaccessible from the eastward: if not, then the open parts were to be ascertained.

Of the persons, manners, and customs of the inhabitants, little new information could be expected. The skirts of their country had been examined in the southern parts, and extensive collections in natural history made there; but to the north of _Endeavour River_, the country had been seen only at a distance. The vast interior of this new continent was wrapped in total obscurity; and excited, perhaps on that very account, full as much curiosity as did the forms of the sh.o.r.es. This part of the subject, however, will scarcely be thought to belong to a naval expedition; except in so much as rivers and other inlets might conduce to obtaining the desired information.

On a general review of the various objects in Terra Australis, to which investigation might be usefully directed at the commencement of the nineteenth century, and in which natural history, geography, navigation, and commerce were so much interested, the question, Why it should have been thought necessary to send out another expedition? will no longer be asked. But rather it will be allowed that, instead of one, there was ample room for two or three s.h.i.+ps; each to be employed for years, and to be conducted with a zeal and perseverance not inferior to the examples given by the best navigators.

On the arrival of His Majesty's s.h.i.+p Reliance in England, at the latter end of 1800, the charts of the new discoveries were published, and a plan was proposed to the Right Hon. SIR JOSEPH BANKS for completing the investigation of the coasts of Terra Australis. The plan was approved by that distinguished patron of science and useful enterprise; it was laid before EARL SPENCER, then first Lord Commissioner of the Admiralty; and finally received the sanction of HIS MAJESTY, who was graciously pleased to direct that the voyage should be undertaken; and I had the honour of being appointed to the command.

A VOYAGE TO TERRA AUSTRALIS.

BOOK I.

TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE TO THE DEPARTURE FROM PORT JACKSON.

CHAPTER I.

Appointment to the Investigator.

Outfit of the s.h.i.+p.

Instruments, books, and charts supplied, with articles for presents and barter.

Liberal conduct of the Hon. East-India Company.

Pa.s.sage round to Spithead.

The Roar sand.

Instructions for the execution of the voyage.

French pa.s.sport, and orders in consequence.

Officers and company of the Investigator, and men of science who embarked.

Account of the time keepers.

1801. JANUARY.

[IN ENGLAND. SHEERNESS.]

On the 19th of January 1801, a commission was signed at the Admiralty appointing me lieutenant of His Majesty's Sloop INVESTIGATOR, to which the name of the s.h.i.+p, heretofore known as the _Xenophon_, was changed by this commission; and captain John Henry Martin having received orders to consider himself to be superseded, I took the command at Sheerness on the 25th of the same month.

The Investigator was a north-country-built s.h.i.+p, of three-hundred and thirty-four tons; and, in form, nearly resembled the description of vessel recommended by captain Cook as best calculated for voyages of discovery. She had been purchased some years before into His Majesty's service; and having been newly coppered and repaired, was considered to be the best vessel which could, at that time, be spared for the projected voyage to Terra Australis.

The s.h.i.+p was in a state of re-equipment; but, on obtaining permission from the Navy Board to fit her out in such manner as I should judge necessary, without reference to the supplies usually allotted to vessels of the same cla.s.s, all the stores were returned, and others of the best quality demanded, upon a more extensive scale. Such of the officers and crew as were aged, or did not volunteer for this particular service, were discharged; and able young men were received in lieu from His Majesty's s.h.i.+p Zealand, on board of which the flag of vice-admiral Graeme was flying at the Nore. Upon one occasion, where eleven volunteers were to be received from the Zealand, a strong instance was given of the spirit of enterprise prevalent amongst British seamen. About three hundred disposable men were called up, and placed on one side of the deck; and after the nature of the voyage, with the number of men wanted, had been explained to them, those who volunteered were desired to go over to the opposite side. The candidates were not less than two-hundred and fifty, most of whom sought with eagerness to be received; and the eleven who were chosen, proved, with one single exception, to be worthy of the preference they obtained.

In making the various alterations required in the s.h.i.+p, and in performing the duties incident to an equipment of this nature, I received the most ready concurrence and a.s.sistance from Isaac Coffin, Esq., (now vice-admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, Bart.) the resident naval commissioner at Sheerness. At his suggestion I had the s.h.i.+p coppered two streaks higher than before, and took on board a spare rudder, which, after being fitted, was stowed away in pieces, ready against those accidents to which s.h.i.+ps employed in examining new, or little known coasts, are more peculiarly liable. To Mr. Whidbey, the master attendant, who had served in the expedition of captain Vancouver. I was also much indebted, for his valuable advice and a.s.sistance in the selection of the proper stores.

Both these officers constantly took pleasure in promoting whatever could be useful to the voyage, or add to our comfort and convenience; and in some cases, our wants, and even wishes, were antic.i.p.ated.

FEBRUARY. MARCH.

February 16, I was promoted to the rank of commander. On the 14th of the following month, the guns, twelve six-pounders, with their ammunition and a chest of fire works were received; and the provisions and stores being all on board on the 27th, and the s.h.i.+p ready for sea, we dropped out to the Nore. I was anxious to arrive upon the coasts of Terra Australis in time to have the whole of the southern summer before me; but various circ.u.mstances r.e.t.a.r.ded our departure, and amongst others, a pa.s.sport from the French government, to prevent molestation to the voyage, had not arrived. I took advantage of this delay to remedy an inconvenience, under which we were otherwise likely to suffer. The quant.i.ty of provisions necessary to be carried out did not leave room in the holds for more water than fifty tons; but by removing ten of the long guns, and subst.i.tuting a few light carronades which could be carried on the upper deck, ten tons more of water might be received, without reducing our efficient strength; for the s.h.i.+p was too deep to admit of the guns below being used in bad weather, whereas the carronades would be always serviceable. My application to have this exchange made, was complied with; and on May 20 it was effected.

MAY.

On the 22nd, a set of astronomical and surveying instruments, for the use of myself and officers, was sent down by direction of the Navy Board; as also various articles for presents to, and barter with, the native inhabitants of the countries to be visited, and many for our own use and convenience. Amongst the latter were most of the books of voyages to the South Seas, which, with our own individual collections, and the Encyclopedia Britannica, presented by the Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, formed a library in my cabin for the use of all the officers. Every chart at the Admiralty, which related to Terra Australis and the neighbouring islands, was copied for us under the direction of the late hydrographer, Alexander Dalrymple, Esq.; who also enriched our stock of information by communicating all such parts of his works as were appropriate to the voyage.

The expense to officers of an outfit for several years, was much alleviated by the liberality of the Hon. East-India Company. The sum of 600. was ordered by the Court of Directors, to be paid as an allowance to the men of science, to the officers of the s.h.i.+p, and myself, for our tables; and the same sum to be given at the conclusion of the voyage.

This allowance the directors were pleased to make, from the voyage being within the limits of the Company's charter, from the expectation of our examinations and discoveries proving advantageous to their commerce and the eastern navigation, and partly, as they said, for my former services.

On the 26th, I received orders to proceed round to Spithead; but the winds being generally from the westward, we did not arrive there before the 2nd of June. A circ.u.mstance occurred during the pa.s.sage, which, amongst many others, showed the necessity there was for a regulation since adopted, to furnish His Majesty's s.h.i.+ps with correct charts. No master had been appointed to the Investigator; nor was any officer on board intimately acquainted with the navigation of the Channel; and having been most of my life engaged in foreign voyages, I was under the necessity, after leaving the pilot in the Downs, to trust almost wholly to my chart, which was that of Mr. J. H. Moore. In working up under Dungeness, on the evening of May 28, we made a trip in sh.o.r.e, towards the town of Hythe, as I supposed from the chart. A little after six, the officer of the watch had reported our distance from the land to be near two leagues; and there being from 10 to 14 fathoms marked within two or three miles of it, and no mention of any shoal lying in the way, I intended to stand on half an hour longer; but in ten minutes, felt the s.h.i.+p lifting upon a bank. The sails were immediately thrown aback; and the weather being fine and water smooth, the s.h.i.+p was got off without having received any apparent injury.

This sand is laid down in the Admiralty charts, under the name of the _Roar_; and extends from Dungeness towards Folkstone, at the distance of from two and a half, to four miles from the land. The leadsman, having found no bottom with 15 fathoms at ten minutes before six, had very culpably quitted the chains when his watch was out, without taking another cast of the lead; and the s.h.i.+p, in going at the rate of two knots and three-quarters, was upon the bank at twenty minutes after six; so that it appears to be steep on the east side.

The bearings given by the azimuth compa.s.s, whilst the s.h.i.+p was aground, were as under:

Dungeness light house, S. W.

Lidd church W. by S. S.

Town of Dim, but taken to be Hythe, N. W. by N.

Cheriton church, then supposed to be Folkstone, E. N. E.

Cliffy eastern extreme of the land, near Dover, E. N.

The distance from the town of Hythe (Dim,) was guessed to be not less than two-and-half, nor more than four miles.

[IN ENGLAND. PORTSMOUTH.]