A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 2

EDWARDS. 1791.

CAPTAIN (now admiral) EDWARD EDWARDS of HIS Majesty's frigate _Pandora_, on his return from the island Taheity,* made the reefs of Torres' Strait, on Aug. 25; in about the lat.i.tude 10 south, and _two degrees_ of longitude to the east of Cape York. Steering from thence westward, he fell in with three islands, rather high, which he named MURRAY'S; lying in lat.i.tude 9 57' south, and longitude 143 42' east;** and some canoes, with two masts, were seen running within side of the reef which lay between the islands and the s.h.i.+p. This reef was of considerable extent; and, during the whole of August 26, captain Edwards ran along it to the southward, without finding any pa.s.sage through. On the 27th, the search was continued, without success; but on the 28th, a boat was despatched to examine an opening in the reef; and the s.h.i.+p stood off and on, waiting the result. At five in the evening, the boat made a signal for a pa.s.sage being found; but fearing to venture through, so near sunset, without more particular information, captain Edwards called the boat on board. In the mean time, a current, or tide, set the Pandora upon the reef; and, after beating there till ten o'clock, she went over it into deep water; and sunk in 15 fathoms, at daylight of the 29th.

[* Commonly written _Otaheite_; but the 0 is either an article or a preposition, and forms no part of the name: Bougainville writes it Tati.]

[** In Plates I. and XIII. Murray's Islands are laid down according to their situations afterwards ascertained in the Investigator; and the reefs, seen by the Pandora, are placed in their relative positions to those islands.]

A dry sand bank was perceived within the opening, at the distance of four miles; and thither the boats repaired with the remaining officers and people; thirty-nine men having lost their lives in this melancholy disaster. This opening was ascertained to lie in lat.i.tude 11 24' and longitude 143 38'; and is represented as very practicable for s.h.i.+ps.

Not being able to save any thing from the wreck, captain Edwards, almost dest.i.tute of provisions and water, set sail on Aug. 30, with his squadron of four boats; and steered for the north-east part of Terra Australis. No reefs, or other dangers, appear to have been encountered in the way to the coast; but in the course northward, along it, some islands and reefs were seen. From one part of the coast, two canoes with three black men in each, paddled hard after the boats; but though they waved and made many signs, it was not thought prudent to wait for them. At one of the York Isles, the natives, for some trifling presents, filled a keg of water for captain Edwards; but refused to bring down any more; and, soon afterward, they let fly a shower of arrows amongst the unfortunate sufferers.

Happily no person was wounded; and the aggressors were put to flight, by a volley of musketry.

At the Prince of Wales' Islands, good water was found; and much alleviated the distress of captain Edwards and his people. They heard here the howling of wolves, (probably of wild dogs,) and "discovered a _morai_, or rather heap of bones. There were amongst them two human skulls, the bones of some large animals, and some turtle bones. They were heaped together in the form of a grave; and a long paddle, supported at each end by a bifurcated branch of a tree, was laid horizontally along it. Near to this, there were marks of a fire having been recently made; and the ground about was much footed and worn." *

[* See "_A Voyage round the World in H. M. frigate Pandora_," by George Hamilton, Surgeon; page 123, _et seq._]

A few small oysters, a harsh austere fruit, resembling a plum, and a small berry of a similar taste to the plum, were all that could be found for food.

"There is a large sound formed here, to which," says Mr. Hamilton, "we gave the name of _Sandwich's Sound_; and commodious anchorage for s.h.i.+pping in the bay, to which we gave the name of _Woy's Bay_, in which there is from five to seven fathoms all round. Near the centre of the sound is a small, dark-coloured, rocky island."

Sept. 2. In the afternoon, captain Edwards pa.s.sed out to the northward, with his little squadron, from amongst the Prince of Wales' Islands; and the same evening, by steering westward, cleared all the islands and reefs of Torres' Strait: on the 14th he reached Timor.

The track and discoveries of the Pandora, in Plate XIII. are taken from a chart published in 1798, by Mr. Dalrymple, upon the authority of one constructed by lieutenant Hayward; but it does not contain the track of the boats after the loss of the Pandora. This chart, and the account given by Mr. Hamilton, which, though more than sufficiently explicit upon some points, is very defective in what concerns navigation and geography; are all that appears to have been published of this voyage.

BLIGH and PORTLOCK. 1792.

Neither the great extent of the reefs, to the eastward of Cape York, nor the loss of the Pandora, were known in 1792; when captain WILLIAm BLIGH came a second time to Torres' Strait, with His Majesty's s.h.i.+p _Providence_, and the brig _a.s.sistant_ commanded by lieutenant (now captain) NATHANIEL PORTLOCK. The objects of his mission were, to transport the bread-fruit plant from Taheity to the West Indies; and, in his way, to explore a new pa.s.sage through the Strait; in both of which he was successful.

A chart of the discoveries made in Torres' Strait, was lodged, by captain Bligh, in the Admiralty Office; and is incorporated with other authorities, in Plate XIII. of the accompanying Atlas. No account of this voyage having yet been published; it is conceived, that the following brief relation of the pa.s.sage through the strait, will be acceptable to the nautical reader; and, having had the honour to serve in the expedition, I am enabled to give it from my own journal, with the sanction of captain Bligh.

Aug. 31. Lat.i.tude at noon 9 25' south; longitude from fifteen sets of distances of the sun west, and star east, of the moon, taken on the 24th, 25th, and 26th, preceding, 145 22' and by time keepers, 145 23' east.

No land seen since pa.s.sing _Louisiade_ the preceding day; but many birds and fish, and much rock weed. At dusk, having steered W. S. 27 miles, breakers were seen ahead, at the distance of two miles; and the vessels hauled to the wind: no bottom at 94 fathoms.

Sept. 1. They bore away W. by S.; but hauled up gradually to South, on account of the breakers; and not being able to weather them, tacked to the N. E. At noon, lat.i.tude 9 37' south, longitude by time keepers, 144 59' east:* part of the reef, which was named after captain Portlock, seen in the N. N. W. from the mast head. At four o'clock, the vessels edged away round the north end of _Portlock's Reef_, which, at dusk, bore South, about two leagues; and the wind was then hauled for the night.

[* In Plate XIII. some small alterations are made in the longitudes given by captain Bligh's time keepers, to make them correspond with the corrected longitudes of the Investigator and c.u.mberland.]

Sept. 2. The breakers bore South, four or five miles; and captain Bligh steered westward: the a.s.sistant leading. At noon, the lat.i.tude being 9 26', longitude, by time keepers, 144 23', other breakers were seen ahead, and the vessels hauled the wind to the southward; but finding another reef in that direction, with a dry bank upon it, they tacked to the N. E. at half past one; and got ground, for the first time, in 64 fathoms, coral bottom. During the following night, they stood off and on, constantly getting soundings.

No breakers were in sight in the morning of Sept. 3. At seven, a boat was sent ahead; and the vessels bore away after her to the N. W., in order to try the New-Guinea side of the Strait. At noon, their course was interrupted by a reef, which was named _Bonds Reef_, extending from W. N.

W. to North, and distant four or five miles: observed lat.i.tude 9 6', longitude 144 13'. The north side of the Strait being judged impracticable, the wind was again hauled to the southward; and, at dusk, the vessels anch.o.r.ed in 37 fathoms, fine grey sand; five or six miles north of a reef, upon which was a dry bank, called _Anchor Key_. An island of considerable height, bearing S. W. by W. ten leagues, was then seen from the mast head: Captain Bligh gave it the name of _Darnley's Island_; and to the s.p.a.ce between Portlock's and Bond's Reefs, by which the vessels had entered the Strait, that of _Bligh's Entrance_.

Sept. 4. A boat was sent to the S. S. W., and the vessels followed. Other high lands (_Murray's Isles_) were seen to the southward; and a reef with a sand bank on it, to the west. At noon, the lat.i.tude was 9 32' south, and longitude 143 59' east: Darnley's Island bore S. 74 to 82 W., four leagues; and the largest of Murray's Isles, S. 13 to 21 E.: the western reef was about three miles distant, but nothing was visible ahead in the S. by W. At four o'clock, the vessels anch.o.r.ed in 21 fathoms, sandy bottom; with Darnley's Island bearing N. 60 W., three leagues. Betwixt a sand-bank, called _Canoe Key_, which bore S. 60 W., two leagues, and a reef lying in the W. by S., there appeared to be a pa.s.sage, which the boats were sent to examine.

On the 5th, boats were again sent to sound the pa.s.sage. Several large sailing canoes were seen; and the cutter making the signal for a.s.sistance, the pinnace was sent to her, well manned and armed. On the return of the boats in the afternoon, it appeared, that, of four canoes which used their efforts to get up to the cutter, one succeeded. There were in it fifteen Indians, black, and quite naked; and they made signs which were interpreted to be amicable. These signs the officer imitated; but not thinking it prudent to go so near as to take a green cocoa-nut, which was held up to him, he continued rowing for the s.h.i.+p. A man, who was sitting upon the shed erected in the centre of the canoe, then said something to those below; and immediately they began to string their bows. Two of them had already fitted arrows, when the officer judged it necessary to fire in his own defence. Six muskets were discharged; and the Indians fell flat into the bottom of the canoe, all except the man on the shed: the seventh musket was fired at him, and he fell also. During this time, the canoe dropped astern; and the three others having joined her, they all gave chase to the cutter, trying to cut her off from the s.h.i.+p; in which they would probably have succeeded, had not the pinnace arrived, at that juncture, to her a.s.sistance. The Indians then hoisted their sails, and steered for Darnley's Island.

No boats could have been manoeuvred better, in working to windward, than were these long canoes by the naked savages. Had the four been able to reach the cutter, it is difficult to say, whether the superiority of our arms would have been equal to the great difference of numbers; considering the ferocity of these people, and the skill with which they seemed to manage their weapons.

September 6. Two boats were sent ahead; and the vessels followed them, between Canoe Key and the reef lying from it half a mile to the north.

After running twelve miles beyond this narrow pa.s.s, they anch.o.r.ed in 13 fathoms; the lat.i.tude being 9 37', and longitude 143 41'. In the afternoon, they proceeded five miles further, to the N. N. W.; and Darnley's Island then bore S. 74 to 55 E. two leagues: except on the north side, this island appeared to be surrounded with reefs and sand banks to a considerable distance. In sailing from Canoe Key, the vessels had left, on the larbord hand, a long chain of reefs and banks; at the north-west end of which, were three low, woody islands: the nearest of these, bearing S. 41 W. two or three miles from the anchorage, was named _Nepean Island_. The view to the northward, from W. by N. to E. by S., was free from dangers; but in every other direction there were reefs, islands, or dry banks.

This day, several canoes from Darnley's Island came off to both vessels.

On approaching, the Indians clapped upon their heads, and exclaimed _Whou! Whou! Whoo!_ repeatedly, with much vehemence; at the same time, they held out arrows and other weapons, and asked for _toore-tooree_! by which they meant iron.* After much difficulty, they were persuaded to come along-side; and two men ventured into the s.h.i.+p. They had bushy hair--were rather stout made--and nearly answered the description given of the natives of New Guinea.** The cartilage, between the nostrils, was cut away in both these people; and the lobes of their ears slit, and stretched to a great length, as had before been observed in a native of the _Fejee Islands_. They had no kind of clothing; but wore necklaces of cowrie sh.e.l.ls, fastened to a braid of fibres; and some of their companions had pearl-oyster sh.e.l.ls hung round their necks. In speaking to each other, their words seemed to be distinctly p.r.o.nounced.

[* The name for iron at Taheity, is _eure-euree_, or _ooree_, orj, according to Bougainville, _aouri_.]

[** See _a Voyage to New Guinea_, by Captain Thomas Forrest.]

Their arms were bows, arrows, and clubs, which they bartered for every kind of iron work with eagerness; but appeared to set little value on any thing else. The bows are made of split bamboo; and so strong, that no man in the s.h.i.+p could bend one of them. The string is a broad slip of cane, fixed to one end of the bow; and fitted with a noose, to go over the other end, when strung. The arrow is a cane of about four feet long, into which a pointed piece of the hard, heavy, _casuarina_ wood, is firmly and neatly fitted; and some of them were barbed. Their clubs are made of the _casuarina_, and are powerful weapons. The hand part is indented, and has a small k.n.o.b, by which the firmness of the grasp is much a.s.sisted; and the heavy end is usually carved with some device: One had the form of a parrot's head, with a ruff round the neck; and was not ill done.

Their canoes are about fifty feet in length, and appear to have been hollowed out of a single tree; but the pieces which form the gunwales, are planks sewed on with the fibres of the cocoa nut, and secured with pegs. These vessels are low, forward, but rise abaft; and, being narrow, are fitted with an outrigger on each side, to keep them steady. A raft, of greater breadth than the canoe, extends over about half the length; and upon this is fixed a shed or hut, thatched with palm leaves. These people, in short, appeared to be dextrous sailors and formidable warriors; and to be as much at ease in the water, as in their canoes.

Sept. 7. The boats having found deep water round the north end of the three low islands, the vessels followed them; but anch.o.r.ed again, soon after noon, in lat.i.tude 9 31', and longitude 143 31'; being sheltered by the two western islands, named _Stephens'_ and _Campbell's_, and the reefs which surround them. There were then no less than eight islands in sight, at different distances; though none further to the westward than W. S. W. All these, except Darnley's Island, first seen, were small, low, and sandy; but generally well covered with wood in the central parts.

On the 8th, the vessels steered westward, with the usual precautions. No land, or other obstruction, had been seen in that quarter; but, at ten o'clock, they were forced to haul the wind to the southward, their course being impeded by reefs; upon one of which, was _Pearce's_ sandy _Key_. At noon, they had anch.o.r.ed in 15 fathoms, under the lee of _Dalrymple's Island_, the westernmost before seen; but two other islands were then visible in the S. by W.; and reefs extended from N.4, to S. 55 W., at the distance of three or four miles. The lat.i.tude here was 9 37'; and longitude, from six sets of distances of the sun and moon, 143 31'; but, by the time-keepers, 143 15' east.

Several canoes were lying upon the sh.o.r.e of Dalrymple's Island; but no natives could he distinguished from the s.h.i.+ps. When the boats returned, however, from sounding, in the afternoon, they came out upon the beach; waving green branches and clapping upon their heads, in token of friends.h.i.+p. Boats were afterwards sent to them, and were amicably received; the natives running into the water to meet them, and some getting into one of the boats. They eagerly asked for _toore-tooree_; and gave in exchange some ornaments of sh.e.l.ls, and a kind of plum somewhat resembling a _jambo_. When the boats pushed off from the sh.o.r.e, the natives followed into the water, and appeared anxious to detain them; but offered no violence. A moderately-sized dog, of a brown, chestnut colour, was observed amongst the party.

Sept. 9. The vessels steered after the boats, between the cl.u.s.ter of islands to the southward, and an extensive reef to the west; with soundings from 15 to 10 fathoms. At noon, the lat.i.tude was 9 48', longitude by timekeepers 143 6'; and two other islands came in sight to the westward. Before two o'clock, an extensive reef, partly dry, to which the name of _Dungeness_ was given, made it necessary to heave to, until the boats had time to sound; after which, captain Bligh bore away along the north side of the reef, and anch.o.r.ed a mile from it, in 17 fathoms, hard bottom. In this situation, _Dungeness Island_, which is low and very woody, bore N. 64 to 87 W. three miles; and a small sandy isle, named _Warriours Island_, N. 6 to 1 W. four miles: this last appeared to stand upon the great western reef, and was surrounded with dry sands.

Besides these, there were other low isles, called the _Six Sisters_, in sight, to the south-east; and a long, flat island, bearing S. 33 to 46 W. over the dry Dungeness Reef; in the west, also, there were islands visible, at a greater distance, and much higher, than the others. The Strait, instead of becoming clearer, seemed to be more and more embarra.s.sed with dangers, as the vessels proceeded westward. The lat.i.tude of this anchorage was 9 50' south, and the longitude 142 55' east.

Sept. 10. The boats sounded the channel to the north-west, between Dungeness and Warriours Islands; and finding sufficient water, the vessels got under way, at noon, to follow them. There were many natives collected upon the sh.o.r.e of Dungeness Island, and several canoes from Warriours Island were about the brig. Presently, captain Portlock made the signal for a.s.sistance; and there was a discharge of musketry and some guns, from his vessel and from the boats. Canoes were also coming towards the Providence; and when a musket was fired at the headmost, the natives set up a great shout, and paddled forward in a body; nor was musketry sufficient to make them desist. The second great gun, loaded with round and grape, was directed at the foremost of eight canoes, full of men; and the round shot, after raking the whole length, struck the high stem. The Indians leaped out, and swam towards their companions; plunging constantly, to avoid the musket b.a.l.l.s which showered thickly about them.

The squadron then made off, as fast as the people could paddle without showing themselves; but afterwards rallied at a greater distance, until a shot, which pa.s.sed over their heads, made them disperse, and give up all idea of any further attack.

In pa.s.sing the deserted canoe, one native was observed still sitting in it. The other canoes afterwards returned to him; and, with gla.s.ses, signals were perceived to be made by the Indians, to their friends on Dungeness Island, expressive, as was thought, of grief and consternation.

No arrows fell on board the Providence; but three men were wounded in the a.s.sistant, and one of them afterwards died: The depth to which the arrows penetrated into the decks and sides of the brig, was represented to be truly astonis.h.i.+ng.

The vessels pa.s.sed between Dungeness and Warriours Islands, with from 19 to 13 fathoms; and anch.o.r.ed, at four o'clock, under the lee of Dungeness Island and Reef. The pa.s.sage to the westward then appeared clearer; three high islands, bearing from S. 60 W. three leagues, to N. 76 W. five leagues, forming the sole visible obstructions.

Sept. 11. Captain Bligh proceeded on his course to the W. N. W., and pa.s.sed two islands, to which the descriptive names of _Turtle-backed Island_ and the _Cap_ were given; and, soon after noon, the vessels anch.o.r.ed in 7 fathoms, soft bottom. There was a dry sand bearing N. 63 W. two or three miles; between which, and the third high island, called _The Brothers_, bearing S. 55 to 69 W. three miles, it was judged necessary for the boats to sound, before proceeding further. This anchorage was in lat.i.tude 9 43', and longitude 142 40'; and, besides the islands already mentioned, there was in sight a mountainous island, to which the name of _Banks_ was given, bearing S. 43 W., twelve or thirteen leagues; also _Burke's Island_, S. 13 W. eight or ten leagues; and _Mount Cornwallis_, on another island, N. 29 W. six or eight leagues; and from behind this last, to N. 7 W., there extended a level land, which was supposed to be a part of the coast of NEW GUINEA.

Sept. 12. The vessels followed the boats to the westward; but were interrupted by reefs, and obliged to anchor again before noon. The water had shoaled gradually, and there was then only 6 fathoms: the bottom a coa.r.s.e, coral sand. Two other islands were then in sight: a low one, named _Turn-again Island_, bore N. 53 W. about four leagues; and _Jervis' Island_, which is rather high, S. 48 W. nine leagues. A reef, with a dry sand upon it, extended from S. 7 E. to 62 W. four or five miles; another was distant three miles to the west; and a third bore N.

18 W. five miles. The lat.i.tude of the anchorage was 9 41' south, and longitude 142 24' east.

A fresh gale from south-east did not allow the Providence and a.s.sistant to proceed onward for three days. In the mean time, the pa.s.sage between the reefs to the N. W., was sounded by the boats; and found to contain about 5 fathoms, regularly, upon hard ground. They were also sent to examine the pa.s.sage round the southern reefs; and this being deeper, with a superior bottom, it was chosen as the preferable route.

Sept. 16. The vessels pa.s.sed to windward of the southern reef; and steered south-westward, as it trended, in from 7 to 5 fathoms water, until half past noon; when they anch.o.r.ed in lat.i.tude 10 3', and longitude, by time-keeper, 142 14'. The sole direction in which the eye could range without being obstructed, was that whence the vessels had come; every where else the view was arrested by rocks, banks, and islands. The most extensive of these, was Banks' Island, extending from S. 14 E. to 62 W., two or three leagues; with a high hill upon it named _Mount Augustus_, which bore S. 4 E:* Another large island, named _Mulgrave's_, extended from behind the last to a cl.u.s.ter of rocks, whose extreme bore W. 5 N. The nearest land, bearing S. 24 E., one mile and a half, was the north-westernmost of three small isles; and to this, the second lieutenant was sent, for the purpose of taking possession of all the islands seen in the Strait, for HIS BRITANNIC MAJESTY GEORGE III., with the ceremonies used on such occasions: the name bestowed upon the whole was CLARENCE'S ARCHIPELAGO.

[* This mountain, in lat.i.tude 10 12' south, longitude 142 13' east, was seen by captain Bligh from the Bounty's launch, and marked in his chart, (_Voyage, etc._ p. 220.) It appears to be the same island indistinctly laid down by captain Cook, in lat.i.tude 10 10', longitude 141 14'; and is, also, one of those, to which the term _Hoge Landt_ is applied in Thevenot's chart of 1663.]

_North Possession Island_ was found to be little else than a ma.s.s of rocks surrounded by a reef; but it was covered with a variety of trees and shrubs. Amongst them was a cl.u.s.ter of cocoa-nut trees, bearing a small, but delicious, fruit; and the tree bearing a plum, such as had been seen at Dalrymple's Island. Besides these, the botanists found the _peeha_ and _nono_ of Taheity; and two new plants, of the size of the common mulberry. One, of the cla.s.s _polyadelphia_, bears a scarlet, bell-shaped flower, large as the China rose; the other was a species of _erythrina_, bearing cl.u.s.ters of b.u.t.terfly-shaped flowers, of a light yellow, tinged with purple: both were entirely dest.i.tute of leaves, and their woods remarkably brittle.

There did not appear to be any fixed inhabitants upon Possession Island; but from a fire which had been recently extinguished, and the sh.e.l.ls and bones of turtle scattered around, it was supposed to have been visited not many days before. The bushes were full of small, green ants; which proved exceedingly troublesome to those who had sufficient hardihood to penetrate their retreats. Another, and larger species of ant, was black; and made its nest by bending and fixing together the leaves, in a round form, so as to be impenetrable to the wet. These, and a small kind of lizard, were all the animals found upon the island.

Sept. 17. The boats led to the westward, steering for a pa.s.sage between Mulgrave's and Jervis' Islands; but seeing it full of rocks and shoals, the vessels anch.o.r.ed a little within the entrance, in 10 fathoms, coa.r.s.e ground; until the boats should sound ahead. The lat.i.tude here was 10 2', and longitude 142 03'. The flood tide, from the E. N. E., was found to set through between the islands, at the rate of four miles an hour; and the breeze being fresh, and bottom bad, the situation was considered to be very unsafe.

Whilst the boats were sounding, several Indians in three canoes, were perceived making towards them; but on a swivel shot being fired over their heads, they returned to Mulgrave's Island, on the south side of the pa.s.sage. On the signal being made for good anchorage further on, the a.s.sistant led to the W. by S.; but on reaching the boats, the bottom was found much inferior to what had been imagined; the approach of night, however, obliged captain Bligh to anchor, soon afterward, in 8 fathoms.