A Voyage to Terra Australis Volume I Part 28

The _lat.i.tude_, observed upon a point of the main land on the east side of Lucky Bay, from one supplement of the sun's alt.i.tude, was 33 59' 45"; but as the supplement of the preceding day gave 39" less than the mean of both observations, I consider the true lat.i.tude to be more nearly 34 0'

20" S.

The _longitude_ from sixteen sets of distances of the sun east and west of the moon, of which the individual results are given in Table II. of the Appendix to this volume, was 122 15' 42"; but from the two best time keepers, in which, from the short period since leaving King George's Sound, I put most confidence, it will be more correctly 122 14' 14" E.

_Dip_ of the south end of the needle, taken on sh.o.r.e upon the granite rock, 66 4' 0"

But I am inclined to think it was attracted by the granite; and that, had the needle been considerably elevated, it would not have shown more dip than at King George's Sound, where it was 64.

The _variation_ deduced from observations taken on sh.o.r.e, morning and evening, with three compa.s.ses placed on the same rock, was 2 35' west; with Walker's meridional compa.s.s, 4 55'; and with the surveying theodolite 0 30' west.* An amplitude taken on board the s.h.i.+p, with the head east-south-east, gave 7 25', which, reduced to what it should be with the head in the meridian, is 4 26' west. The mean, and what I consider to be nearest the true variation in this neighbourhood, will be 3 6' west.

[* It is remarkable, that the difference between these three kinds of instruments is directly the reverse here of what it was in King George's Sound.]

This is what I allowed upon the bearings taken with the theodolite upon the top of the hill behind the bay, and it appeared to be the same upon two small islands, one to the east and the other west, where Mr. Thistle took angles; but at Mondrain Island there seemed to be considerable differences.

Before entering the archipelago, the variation was observed to be 9 21'

west, with the s.h.i.+p's head east-south-east; but at three leagues to the east of Termination Island, in the following year, and with the head at east-north-east, it was no more than 3 50' west. From the first, I should deduce the true variation on the west side of the archipelago to be 6 28', and off Termination Island, from the second, to be 0 57'

west; both of which coincide with the other observations in showing the islands of the archipelago to possess a considerable degree of magnetic attraction.

The rise of _tide_ in Lucky Bay was so trifling, that under the circ.u.mstances of our stay no attention was paid to it.

THURSDAY 14 JANUARY 1802

In the morning of the 14th, the wind being then light from the northward, we got under way and steered for Mondrain Island. In our route eastward from thence, several low rocks and patches of breakers were left on each side, besides small islands whose bearings had been taken from the hill behind Lucky Bay; the depth of water, however, was between 20 and 30 fathoms. The wind was then moderate from the south-westward, but the weather so hazy that there was much difficulty, and some uncertainty, in recognizing the different islands.

At half-past ten we steered more towards the main land, that no opening in it might escape unseen; and at noon, hove to for the purpose of taking bearings. The lat.i.tude observed to the north was 34 2', and longitude 122 36'. A chain of islands and breakers lay about two miles to the northward; and amongst the cl.u.s.ter to the east were two islands with peaks upon them, which, from their similarity, were named the _Twins_: the southernmost and nearest bore E. 7 N., three leagues. The nearest part of the main land was a projection with hills upon it which had been set from Lucky Bay, whence it is nearly five leagues distant; the intermediate s.p.a.ce being a large bight with a low, sandy coast at the back, and containing many small islands and breakers. To the eastward of the hilly projection the coast seemed again to be sandy; but although our distance from it was not more than six or seven miles, it was scarcely visible through the haze.

After the bearings were obtained we bore away along the south side of the chain of islands and rocks; and at half-past one steered north-east to look for a place of shelter, either amongst the cl.u.s.ter near the Twins or in the opposite main land. The water shoaled amongst the small islands, from 30 to 10 fathoms, and suddenly to 3, when the bottom was distinctly seen under the s.h.i.+p. The next cast was 7 fathoms, and we steered on eastward for two islets three-quarters of a mile asunder, between which the master was sent to sound. On his making the signal we followed through, having 20 fathoms, and afterwards hauled the wind to the south-east, seeing no hope of shelter either amongst the islands or near the main land. The coast stretched eastward with little sinuosity, and was sandy, but not so low as before.

At six o'clock we had some larger, flat islands to windward, and in the east-south-east was one much higher and of greater extent, which proved to be the _I. du Milieu_ (Middle Island) of D'Entrecasteaux. Betwixt this island and his _Cap Aride_ on the main there were many small isles and apparently pa.s.sages; and we therefore bore away in the hope of finding anchorage against the approaching night. Many patches of breakers were pa.s.sed; and seeing a small bay in the north side of Middle Island, we stood in for it under shortened sail, and came to an anchor in 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, off the first of three small beaches. The island sheltered us from east-north-east, round by the south to west-by-north; and to the northward there was, besides the main land, a number of reefs and small isles, of which the nearest and largest was a quarter of a mile distant, as Middle Island was on the other side. The master was immediately sent to examine the pa.s.sage through to the eastward, that we might know whether there were a possibility of escape in case the anchor should not hold; for the wind blew fresh at west-south-west, and threw some swell into the bay; he found 3 fathoms in the shallow part of the opening.

FRIDAY 15 JANUARY 1802

The botanists landed in the morning upon Middle Island; for I had determined to stop a day or two, as well for their accommodation as to improve my chart of the archipelago. I went to the northern island, which is one mile long and near half a mile in breadth, and found it to be covered with tufts of wiry gra.s.s intermixed with a few shrubs. Some of the little, blue penguins, like those of Ba.s.s Strait, harboured under the bushes; and amongst the gra.s.s and upon the sh.o.r.es were a number of the bernacle geese, of which we killed nine, mostly with sticks; and sixteen more were procured in the course of the day.

After taking bearings from the uppermost of the small elevations of GOOSE ISLAND, as it was now named, I ascended the high north-western hill of Middle Island, which afforded a more extensive view. The furthest visible part of the main land was a projecting cape, with a broad-topped hill upon it bearing N. 58 E., six or seven leagues. This projection not having been seen by D'Entrecasteaux, was named after the late admiral Sir Thomas Pasley, under whom I had the honour of entering the naval service.

The sh.o.r.e betwixt Cape Pasley and Cape Arid is low and sandy, and falls back in a large bight, nearly similar to what is formed on the west side of Cape Arid. Behind that cape was a high bank of sand, which stretched from one bight nearly to the other, and had the appearance of having been the sea sh.o.r.e not very long since.

(Atlas, Plate XVII. View 5.*)

[* This view was taken in the following year, at five leagues distant from Middle Island, but it shows the form of the mount, and of the granitic ridge.]

The mount upon which I stood is the highest part of a ridge of almost bare granite, extending along, or rather forming the west side of Middle Island. The other parts of the island are low, and thickly covered with brush wood and some trees, where a small species of kangaroo seemed to be numerous, though none were caught. In the north-eastern part was a small lake of a rose colour, the water of which, as I was informed by Mr.

Thistle who visited it, was so saturated with salt that sufficient quant.i.ties were crystallised near the sh.o.r.es to load a s.h.i.+p. The specimen he brought on board was of a good quality, and required no other process than drying to be fit for use. This lake is at the back of the easternmost of three small beaches on the north side of the island, and it might be concluded that the salt was formed by the evaporation of the water oozing through the bank which separates it from the sea; but as, in the small drainings from the hills, the water was too salt to be drinkable, this may admit of a doubt.

SAt.u.r.dAY 16 JANUARY 1802

On Sat.u.r.day morning a part of the people were employed cutting a boat load of fire wood, and the master was again sent to sound the pa.s.sage out to the eastward, and amongst the rocks lying beyond it. The shallowest depth he found was 3 fathoms, after which the water deepened to 7 and 10, past the north-east point and out to sea. He landed upon some of the rocky islets, and brought from thence twenty-seven more geese, some of them alive. The botanical gentlemen employed the day in going round Middle Island, but they found very little to reward their labour. A piece of fir plank, with nails in it, which seemed to have been part of a s.h.i.+p's deck, was picked up on the sh.o.r.e; but no trace of the island having been visited, either by Europeans or the natives of the main land, was any where seen.

The basis stone of this, as it appears to be of all the islands as well as of the coast of the archipelago, is granitic; but at the south side of Middle Island there is a thick crust of calcareous rock over it, as there is at the south end of Goose Island. It was also on the south side of King George's Sound that the calcareous rock covered the granite; a coincidence which may perhaps afford some light to the geologist.

The _lat.i.tude_ of Goose Island Bay, for so this anchorage was named, is 34 5' 23" south, and _longitude_ by the two best time keepers corrected 123 9' 30",5 east; the observations being made on the middlemost of the three southern beaches.

The _variation_ from azimuth, observed on the binnacle when the s.h.i.+p's head was west-south-west, was 0 54' west, and in the following year similar observations taken at anchor one mile to the eastward, with the head east, gave 6 10' west; whence I deduce the variation which would have been obtained with the head at north or south, to be 3 25' west.

From the bearings on sh.o.r.e, compared with the lat.i.tudes and longitudes, it appeared to be 5 on the centre of Goose Island; and 4 upon the granitic mount of Middle Island.

No run of _tide_ was observed, notwithstanding the narrowness of the channel, where the s.h.i.+p lay.

Goose-Island Bay may be useful as a place of refreshment, but the geese were not found to be so numerous at a different season of the year: a few hair seals may be procured, probably at all times. The wood is a species of _eucalyptus_, neither abundant nor large; but two or three s.h.i.+ps may be supplied with fuel. Fresh water was not to be obtained upon either of the islands; but upon the opposite Cape Arid, five miles to the north, I judged there might be small streams running down from the hills. The lake of salt will be the greatest inducement for vessels to stop in this bay; they must not, however, come to it in the winter season, as there will be occasion to show hereafter.

SUNDAY 17 JANUARY 1802

On the 17th in the morning, the anchor was weighed and we steered out eastward. The shallowest water was seventeen feet, between the south-east point of Goose Island and the opposite west point of the middle beach; after which it deepened; and abreast of the middle rock there was 7 fathoms. Having cleared the islets lying off the north-east point of Middle Island, we steered for Cape Pasley, leaving the _South-East Isles_ of the archipelago far distant on the starbord hand. A low islet and some rocks lie three miles to the south of the Cape, and the soundings we had in pa.s.sing between them were 28 and 34 fathoms.

The wind at this time was moderate at south-west, with fine weather.

Middle Island and Cape Arid were still visible at noon, and the _Eastern Group_, which, according to D'Entrecasteaux, terminated the archipelago, was coming in sight. Our situation and most material bearings were then as under:

Lat.i.tude, observed to the north and south, 33 54' 55"

Longitude reduced up from eight o'clock, 123 55 Middle Island, top of the mount, S. 65 W.

Cape Pasley, the hill, dist. 6 miles, S. 84 W.

Furthest extreme, a low point, dist. 3 leagues, N. 38 E.

A ragged mount in the interior of the country, N. 21 W.

Eastern Group, the northern hill upon the highest and southernmost isle, dist. 8 leagues, N. 80 E.

At half-past one we pa.s.sed within three miles of the point which had been the furthest extreme at noon; it is low and sandy, and a ledge of rocks extends from it to the north-east. I named it _Point Malcolm_, in honour of Captain Pultney Malcolm of the navy. The depth diminished from 20 to 10 fathoms, in pa.s.sing near a sunken rock two miles to the south-east of the point, and upon which the sea breaks only at times. The coast from thence trended rapidly to the northward; and in following its direction at from three to five miles distance, we left eight islands of the Eastern Group on the starbord and two on the larbord hand. These, with the exception of the southernmost, which has a hill at each end and some vegetation, are little better than low sterile rocks.

At seven in the evening, the water being smotth, we anch.o.r.ed in 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, three or four miles from the sh.o.r.e; where our calculated situation and the bearings of the land were as follows:

Lat.i.tude, 33 17' S.

Longitude, 124 6' E.

Northern extreme of the coast, N. 27 E.

Southern extreme, S. 36 W.

A point in the interior country, S. 68 W.

From Cape Pasley to the northern extreme the coast is sandy and low, presenting, with trifling exceptions, a continued beach. On the north side of Point Malcolm it stretches north, and then eastward, forming a bight five miles within the land; after which the general trending is north-north-east, with very little sinuosity. Four or five miles behind the sh.o.r.e, and running parallel with it, is a bank of moderately high and level land, over which the tops of some barren-looking mountains were occasionally seen. The most remarkable of these is Mount Ragged, lying N.

8 W. nine or ten leagues from Cape Pasley.

[SOUTH COAST. BETWEEN THE ARCHIPELAGOS.]

We had now altogether lost sight of the Archipelago of the Recherche. The chart which I have constructed of this extensive ma.s.s of dangers is much more full, and in many parts should be more accurate than that of D'Entrecasteaux; but I dare by no means a.s.sert that the very great number of islands, rocks, and reefs therein contained are the whole that exist; nor that every individual one is correctly placed, although the greatest care was taken to obtain correctness. All the islands seem to be more or less frequented by seals; but I think not in numbers sufficient to make a speculation from Europe advisable on their account; certainly not for the China market, the seals being mostly of the hair kind, and the fur of such others as were seen was red and coa.r.s.e. There is, besides, a risk of being caught in the archipelago with strong south or western winds, in which case destruction would be almost inevitable, for I know of no place where a s.h.i.+p might take refuge in a gale. The shelter in Thistle's Cove is, indeed, complete, when a vessel is once placed; but the cove is too small to be entered except under favourable circ.u.mstances, and the shelter in the western corner could not be attained with winds blowing strong out of it. The archipelago should not, therefore, be entered without the a.s.surance of carrying fine weather to the proposed anchorage.

During the night of the 17th there was no current or set of tide past the s.h.i.+p. Every thing was kept prepared for getting under way at a moment's notice; but the wind blew gently off the land, and the people of the watch occupied themselves successfully in catching dog-fish. At daybreak [MONDAY 18 JANUARY 1802] we made all sail to the north-eastward, along the same low and, if possible, more sandy coast. The wind was light, and at nine it fell calm. This was succeeded by a sea breeze at east-south-east, and we trimmed close to it, keeping on our former course until four in the afternoon; when the land being one mile and a half distant, we tacked in 12 fathoms, and stretched to the southward.

The sh.o.r.e curved round here, and took a more eastern direction; and the bank of level land, which continued to run along behind it, approached very near to the water side. Three leagues further on it formed cliffs upon the coast; and a projecting part of them, which I called Point Culver, bore N. 77 E. four leagues: this was the furthest land in sight.

This afternoon we pa.s.sed a number of pale red medusas, such as I had usually seen on the East Coast at the entrances of rivers, and which, on being touched, produced a sensation like the stinging of a nettle. There was also a red sc.u.m on the water, and some of it was taken up to be examined by Mr. Brown in a microscope. It consisted of minute particles not more than half a line in length, and each appeared to be composed of several cohering fibres which were jointed; the joints being of an uniform thickness, and nearly as broad as long. These fibres were generally of unequal length, and the extremities of the compound particle thence appeared somewhat torn. The particles exhibited no motion when in salt water; and the sole effect produced by immersing them in spirit of wine was the separation of each into its component fibres.

Until daybreak next morning the wind was unfavourable; but it then veered round to the south, and enabled us to pa.s.s Point Culver. Our situation at noon, and the bearings taken were these:

Lat.i.tude, observed to the north and south, 32 52' 51"