The Art of Modern Lace Making Part 4

METHOD OF PLACING BRAID UPON DESIGNS.

This ill.u.s.tration shows the method of arranging braid upon designs for modern lace, and how, after the braid is basted along the pattern, the tracing cloth is basted to _toile ciree_ or to smooth, light brown wrapping paper to provide sufficient firmness for working.

The following instructions apply particularly to engraving No. 2, but their principle should be observed and applied to any design decided upon, as good results in lace-making largely depend upon the arrangement of the braid.

Run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine st.i.tches, working as shown, from left to right. Take another piece of braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by "running"

st.i.tches in its center, keeping it as smooth and even as possible. The outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as follows: Fasten whipping thread securely, and insert the needle in and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. Two or three fastening-off st.i.tches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its structure.

Before cutting off the braid run a few st.i.tches across it to prevent it from widening. Joins should be avoided, but when a join is indispensable, st.i.tch the braid together, open and turn back the ends, and st.i.tch each portion down separately. When pa.s.sing the thread from one part to another, run it along the center of the braid, allowing the st.i.tches to show as little as possible. In commencing, make a few st.i.tches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and cutting it off afterwards. In fastening off, make a tight b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch, run in three st.i.tches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut off.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 2.--Method of Placing Braid upon Designs.]

No. 3.

ROYAL BATTENBURG LACE BUREAU-SCARF.

The engraving on the opposite page represents the article above mentioned, and shows the effectiveness of this magnificent and durable lace. In actual size the scarf is about a yard and one-half long and one-half yard wide, and is made of a heavy Battenburg braid, having a fancy edge (See Nos. 5 or 7, on page 20) and cord, rings and b.u.t.tons.

The main part of the design is outlined with the braid, cord is used as a veining for the leaves, and the rings and b.u.t.tons are introduced here and there over the surface, as seen in the picture. Raleigh bars with picots connect the border and center designs, while the palms along the border as well as other small s.p.a.ces are filled in with point Turque and point de Grecque st.i.tches. Sorrento bars are also used in some of the long leaf-like s.p.a.ces, while in a few of the circular s.p.a.ces point d'Angleterre rosettes are introduced. These rosettes are also frequently called "spiders," and are made, according to the s.p.a.ce, large or small; and according to the requirements of the braid selected, heavy or light.

For convenience in giving the name of this lace, the full t.i.tle is rarely used--"Battenburg Lace" being considered sufficient to identify the fabric from the other and lighter laces.

Battenburg lace is made both heavy and light, according to personal taste or the object for which the lace is intended, but it was originally designed for heavy work only.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 3.--Royal Battenburg Lace Bureau-scarf.]

No. 4.

POINT LACE DOILY FOR A TOILET CUs.h.i.+ON.

This dainty doily may be made of the point lace braids ill.u.s.trated at Nos. 30 and 31, together with the picot edging No. 36, seen on page 20.

In filling in the s.p.a.ces, thread suitable for the braid is used, and the st.i.tches are point de Valenciennes, point d'Espagne, Sorrento bars, point de Bruxelles, open rings and "spiders." As all of these st.i.tches, with many others are ill.u.s.trated in that section of this book devoted to st.i.tches, it will be unnecessary to repeat the details for making, as they are fully given in the department mentioned. It will also be understood that most of the articles ill.u.s.trated are not of full size, but in some instances are nearly so. The doily just described is ill.u.s.trated about three-quarters of its actual size; but by using a fine braid a doily of fairy-like texture, and just the size of the engraving may be produced. Any one accustomed to drawing may enlarge this or any of the designs given, but only clever fingers should try this experiment.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 4.--Point Lace Doily for a Toilet Cus.h.i.+on.]

No. 5.

BATTENBURG EDGING, WITH CORD.

This is a very elegant looking lace, though simply made after the regular Battenburg method. A plain braid (No. 10, page 20) is chosen to form the outlines, and after the st.i.tches are filled in, cord of a suitable size is carried around the petals and foliage of the design, and rows of it are also used to indicate the vine, though the latter may be outlined with the tape and then with the cord. The petals of the blossoms are filled in in point de Bruxelles and point de Venise st.i.tches, while point d'Espagne and point Brabancon are used for the foliage and vine. Point Grecque and d'Alencon bars are also used at the very heart of the blossom, and Raleigh net-work bars connect the design to the edge and are dotted here and there with "spiders."

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 5.--Battenburg Lace, with Cord.]

No. 6.

BATTENBURG INSERTION, WITH CORD.

This insertion matches the edging or lace above described, and is, therefore, made in exactly the same way, except that the design is double. Both the edging and insertion may be made of any width desired; and the design will be found very pretty for fancy-edge or plain braids without the cord. b.u.t.tons or rings may be used in place of the "spiders"

seen in the engravings if preferred.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 6.--Battenburg Insertion, with Cord.]

No. 7.

DESIGN FOR A HONITON LACE CAP.

The design ill.u.s.trated is, of necessity, much smaller than the cap it is intended for; but the clever student may easily enlarge it to, or design one for herself of the size required. Lace-makers will duplicate designs in any size desired for a moderate sum, thus saving the amateur much work and at the same time putting her to little expense.

The design here ill.u.s.trated might also be used for handkerchief corners, scarf-ends, etc., etc.; and any of the st.i.tches ill.u.s.trated on preceding pages may be selected for filling-in purposes.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 7.--Design for a Honiton Lace Cap.]

No. 8.

DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG, POINT, OR HONITON LACE.

According to the article to be decorated, this design will be found appropriate for either of the braids used for the laces above mentioned.

For table scarfs, tidies, heavy borders, etc., etc., the Battenburg braids should be selected; but for handkerchiefs or doilies, the point or Honiton braids are the proper ones to choose for this design.

Raleigh bars, Brussels point and any other st.i.tches preferred, may be used in filling in the s.p.a.ces. When a design is procured from a lace-maker a portion of it is always marked with the st.i.tches to be used; but this is not an arbitrary matter, since the one who is to make the lace, may desire to and may insert other st.i.tches in preference to those indicated.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 8.--Design for a Corner in Battenburg, Point, or Honiton Lace.]

No. 9.

DOILY IN "IDEAL HONITON" LACE-WORK AND LINEN LAWN.

One of the prettiest and the very newest of the modern laces is here ill.u.s.trated. It is made of two of the many varieties of Honiton braids, wash-silk floss and linen lawn. The braid is basted smoothly upon a square of lawn in the design ill.u.s.trated (though individual taste will no doubt suggest many other equally pretty designs), after which the _inner_ edges of the braid are permanently secured by a "short and long st.i.tch." This is merely a short and long b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tch _reversed_ so that the cross loops are on the edge of the braid, while the st.i.tches them selves extend beyond the braid, into the lawn, as seen in the engraving. Two short st.i.tches alternate with single long ones throughout this part of the work. The outer edges are then fastened to the square by tiny b.u.t.ton-hole scollops. Then the lawn is cut from under the squares formed by the braid, and the openings are b.u.t.ton-holed through the lawn and braid so that the edges of the lawn will not fray. When this is done the s.p.a.ces are filled in with fancy st.i.tches, and when they are completed the lawn is cut away from the edge-scollops with a pair of fine sharp, scissors. In the doily ill.u.s.trated "spiders" and point de Venise st.i.tches are used for filling in the s.p.a.ces. The floss used may be white or tinted, the latter was.h.i.+ng as well as the white; but as a rule, white or yellow flosses are selected in preference to other colors. "Ideal Honiton" scarfs, tidies, doilies, pillow shams, tray cloths, etc., etc., may be purchased with the braid already basted on in a pretty design and with the necessary threads or floss, or they may be designed at home, and by either method will result in a beautiful variety of modern lace.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 9.--Doily of "Ideal Honiton" Lace and Linen Lawn.]

No. 10.

DESIGN FOR A CORNER IN BATTENBURG LACE.

Although this design is intended for Battenburg lace, and may be made up of any of the braids used for that kind of lace, it will also be found suitable for the finer point or Honiton braids for handkerchiefs, doilies, mats, etc., etc. As ill.u.s.trated it would be suitable for a handkerchief. Enlarged and followed in Battenburg braid it would make a very handsome border for a table-scarf, curtains or draperies, or a substantial decoration for a gown of wash fabric or other goods. Raleigh bars, "spiders" and point de Bruxelles st.i.tches are used for filling in, and a dainty picot edge is sewed to the outer line of the braid. Plain or fancy braid may be used for this design. If fancy loop-edge braid is selected, the picot edge will not be needed, the loops taking its place.

[Ill.u.s.tration: No. 10.--Design for a Corner in Battenburg Lace.]