Rheims and the Battles for its Possession Part 17

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CLOISTER AND FOUNTAIN OF THE HoTEL-DIEU]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE GRAND STAIRCASE OF THE HoTEL-DIEU _Through the windows is seen the North Front of St. Remi._]

_At the back of the court, on the left_, is an exceedingly fine Louis XVI. staircase with wrought-iron handrail (_photo above_).

The =Lapidary Museum=, which was formerly in the crypt of the archi-episcopal chapel (_see p. 65_), was installed under one of the galleries of the cloister in 1896. Of the tombstones, storied floor-tiles, and various carvings which it contains, the most remarkable is the =Tomb of Jovinus=.

Consul in 367, Jovinus commanded the armies in Gaul, under the Emperor Julian, and successfully resisted three attempts at invasion by the Alemanni. As a Christian, he founded a basilica at Rheims.

The white marble tomb with carvings is apparently Graeco-Roman of the 3rd century, and dates back before the time of Jovinus, who died in 370. It is possible that Jovinus had the first occupant of the tomb ejected, or that he bought an old sarcophagus and had his own portrait affixed to it.

The chapel installed in the old library of the abbey contained some fine Louis XVI. wood carvings (_see photo below of the ruins of the chapel_).

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHAPEL OF THE HoTEL-DIEU IN 1919]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE OLD CHAPTER-HOUSE OF THE ABBEY]

The =chapter-house= of the abbey, which served as a refectory, was rebuilt about the end of the 12th century. With its pointed arches, it belonged to the early period of Gothic architecture. The most remarkable portion was the vestibule facing the cloister. The decoration of the lateral arcades of the vestibule included Roman capitals, nearly all of which are intact (_photo below_), and which are of great value from the standpoint of the history of art and costumes. In the refectory were the _G.o.dard_ tables made out of a single branch of a gigantic oak-tree from the forest of St. Basle. They were given to the old _Hotel-Dieu_ by Canon G.o.dard, whose name is incrusted in lead in the wood, as a rebus: _Go_, followed by the figure of a dart (French: _dard_).

Near the chapter-house, a round-arched chamber was all that remained of the early portion of the abbey.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROMAN CAPITALS IN THE VESTIBULE OF THE CHAPTER-HOUSE]

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE GRAND STAIRCASE OF THE HoPITAL GeNeRAL]

_After visiting the Hotel-Dieu, follow the Rue Simon, which skirts the Ecole de Medecine, then turn to the right into the Rue St. Remi. At the end of same, take the Rue Gambetta on the left, and follow it as far as the_ =Hopital General= _on the right._

=The Hopital General=

This is the old Order-House of the Jesuits, built at the beginning of the 17th century. The =refectory= is ornamented with rich woodwork and paintings, by the Rheims artist Helart. Of greater interest is the _library_, situated under the gables, and which is reached by a fine staircase. The room is adorned with a profusion of wood-carvings and mouldings. Exceedingly fine consoles carry the ceiling, whose carved panels are profusely ornamented with crowns, polygons, florets and heads of angels. The oaken pilasters which separate the bookshelves are decorated with a variety of leaves and flowers. In spite of this wealth of ornament, the general effect is harmonious. The recesses in the woodwork, opposite the dummy dormer-windows, were for reading.

Ancient vines cover the walls of the chapel, near the entrance to the _hopital_.

_At the side of the Hopital General stands the_ =Church of St. Maurice=.

This church was entirely rebuilt by the Jesuits after the destruction of the ancient edifice, which was one of the oldest in Rheims. Here may be seen the _Eagle Reading-Desk_, a fine piece of 17th century wood-carving; two _Louis XIV. portable iron desks_ and the _paschal chandelier_ of carved wood; the _17th century confessionals_ of the lateral chapels, and in the sacristy remarkable _Louis XIII., hand-embroidered guipures_ of open-work designs, after the style of the models by the Rheims artist, Georges Baussonnet.

_Return to the Place du Parvis, in front of the Cathedral, via the Rue Gambetta and its continuation, the Rue Chanzy._

A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS AROUND RHEIMS

[Ill.u.s.tration (Map)]

A thorough visit can be made in two days.

The Itinerary for each day is divided into two parts, to allow tourists to return to Rheims for lunch.

=First Day= { Morning pp. 122-133.

{ Afternoon pp. 134-159.

=Second Day= { Morning pp. 160-165.

{ Afternoon pp. 166-174.

FIRST DAY

MORNING

=THE MOUNTAIN OF RHEIMS=

(_See the complete Itineraries on p. 121, and the summary of the war operations on p. 131._)

[Ill.u.s.tration (Map)]

This part of the Itinerary will take the tourist to the most important points of the last German offensive of 1918, which aimed at the capture of Rheims.

_Starting from the Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier, opposite the Cathedral, turn to the right into the Rue Chanzy, follow same as far as the Rue de Vesle, take the latter on the left, and follow it to the end._

_After the_ =Porte de Paris= _(see p. 68) the Rue de Vesle becomes the Avenue de Paris. Take same, but after pa.s.sing under the railway bridge, turn to the left into the Avenue d'Epernay (R. N. 51, see plan, p.

121)._

_Take the second street on the right (Rue de Bezannes), which pa.s.ses in front of the_ =Western Cemetery=, devastated by the bombardments.

The road crosses numerous lines of trenches and boyaux, which defended the immediate approaches to Rheims.

_Before reaching Bezannes village, leave on the right, two roads which skirt a large estate enclosed with railings, go straight on to the ruined railway-station of Bezannes, then turn to the right._

=Bezannes=

(_See Itinerary, p. 122._)

_Cross the first group of half-ruined houses, then, on reaching a second group, which forms the main part of the village, turn to the left into the first street encountered, where the_ partially destroyed church _stands_.

The round-vaulted apse, tower, nave and aisles all belong to the Romanesque period. The Gothic doorway is 13th, and the spire of the belfry 15th century.

The square tower greatly resembles the old belfry on the doorway of St.

Remi Church in Rheims, and, like the latter, dates apparently from the middle of the 11th century.

The Gothic doorway of the west front is set up against a Romanesque wall. The gable has been rebuilt in modern times. Vestiges of an ancient portal are to be found on each side of the doorway. The key-stones of the arch above the tympanum, like those of the upper arching, are numbered in Roman figures, a peculiarity rarely to be found.