Summer Cruising in the South Seas Part 14

Here Kahele's heart rejoiced. Here, close by the little chapel of Kaupo, he discovered one whom he proclaimed his grandfather; though, judging from the years of the man, he could scarcely have been anything beyond an uncle. I was put to rest in a little stone cell, where the priests sleep when they are on their mission to Kaupo. A narrow bed, with a crucifix at the foot of it, a small window in the thick wall, with a jug of water in the corner thereof, and a chair with a game-leg, const.i.tuted the furnishment of the quaint lodging. Kahele rushed about to see old friends,--who wept over him,--and was very long absent, whereat I waxed wroth, and berated him roundly; but the poor fellow was so charmingly repentant that I forgave him all, and more too, for I promised him I would stay three days, at least, with his uncle-grandfather, and give him his universal liberty for the time being.

From the open doorway I saw the long sweep of the mountains, looking cool and purple in the twilight. The ghostly procession of the mists stole in at the windward gap; the after-glow of the evening suffused the front of the chapel with a warm light, and the statue of the Virgin above the chapel-door,--a little faded with the suns of that endless summer, a little mildewed with the frequent rains,--the statue looked down upon us with a smile of welcome. Some youngsters, as naked as day-old nest-birds, tossed a ball into the air; and when it at last lodged in the niche of the Virgin, they clapped their hands, half in merriment and half in awe, and the games of the evening ended. Then the full moon rose; a c.o.c.k crew in the peak of the chapel, thinking it daybreak, and the little fellows slept, with their spines curved like young kittens. By and by the moon hung, round and mellow, beyond the chapel-cross, and threw a long shadow in the gra.s.s; and then I went to my cell and folded my hands to rest, with a sense of blessed and unutterable peace.

THE CHAPEL OF THE PALMS.

Oh, the long suffering of him who threads a narrow trail over the brown crust of a hill where the short gra.s.s lies flat in tropical suns.h.i.+ne! On one side sleeps the blue, monotonous sea; on the other, crags clothe themselves in cool mist and look dreamy and solemn.

The boy Kahele, who has no ambition beyond the bit of his foot-sore mustang, lags behind, taking all the dust with commendable resignation.

As for me, I am wet through with the last shower; I steam in the fierce noonday heat. I spur Hoke the mule into the shadow of a great cloud that drifts lazily overhead, and am grateful for this unsatisfying shade as long as it lasts. I watch the sea, swinging my whip by its threadbare lash like a pendulum,--the sea, where a very black rock is being drowned over and over by the tremendous swell that covers it for a moment; but somehow the rock comes to the surface again, and seems to gasp horribly in a deluge of breakers. That rock has been drowning for centuries, yet its struggle for life is as real as ever.

I watch the mountains, cleft with green, fern-cus.h.i.+oned chasms, where an occasional stream silently distils. Far up on a sun-swept ledge a white, scattering drift, looking like a rose-garden after a high wind, I know to be a flock of goats feeding. But the wind-dried and sun-burnt gra.s.s under foot, the intangible dust that pervades the air, the rain-cloud in the distance, trailing its banners of c.r.a.pe in the sea as it bears down upon us,--these annoyed me somewhat, and make life a burden for the time being; so I spur my faithless Hoke up a new ascent as forbidding as any that we have yet come upon, and slowly and with many pauses creep to the summit.

Kahele, "the goer," belies his name, for he loiters everywhere and always; yet I am not sorry. I have the first glimpse of Wailua all to myself. I am not obliged to betray my emotion, which is a bore of the worst sort.

Wailua lies at my feet,--a valley full of bees, b.u.t.terflies, and blossoms, the sea fawning at the mouth of it, the clouds melting over it; waterfalls gus.h.i.+ng from numerous green corners; silver-white phaetons floating in mid-air, at a loss to choose between earth and heaven, though evidently a little inclined earthward, for they no sooner drift out of the bewildering bowers of Wailua than they return again with noticeable haste.

Down I plunge into the depths of the valley, with the first drops of a heavy shower pelting me in the back; and under a great tree, that seems yearning to shelter somebody, I pause till the rain is over.

Anon the slow-footed Kahele arrives, leaking all over, and bringing a peace-offering of ohias, the native apple, as juicy and sweet as the forbidden fruits of Paradise. As for these apples, they have solitary seed, like a nutmeg, a pulp as white as wax, a juice flavoured with roses, and their skin as red as a peony and as glossy as varnish. These we munch and munch while the forest reels under the impetuous avalanches of big rain-drops, and our animals tear great tufts of sweet gra.s.s from the upper roadside.

Is it far to the chapel, I wonder. Kahele thinks not,--perhaps a pari or two distant. But a pari, a cliff, has many antecedents, and I feel that some dozen or so of climbs, each more or less fatiguing, still separate me from the rest I am seeking, and hope not to find until I reach the abode of Pere Fidelis, at the foot of the cross, as one might say.

The rain ceases. Hoke once more nerves himself for fresh a.s.saults upon the everlasting hills. Kahele drops behind as usual, and the afternoon wanes.

How fresh seems the memory of this journey, yet its place is with the archives of the past. I seem to breathe the incense of orange-flowers, and to hear the whisper of distant waterfalls as I write.

It must have been toward sunset,--we were threading the eastern coast, and a great mountain filled the west--but I felt that it was the hour when day ends and night begins. The heavy clouds looked as though they were still brimful of sunlight, yet no ray escaped to gladden our side of the world.

Finally, on the brow of what seemed to be the last hill in this life, I saw a cross,--a cross among the palms. Hoke saw it, and quickened his pace: he was not so great an a.s.s but he knew that there was provender in the green pastures of Pere Fidelis, and his heart freshened within him.

A few paces from the grove of palms I heard a bell swing jubilantly. Out over the solemn sea, up and down that foam-crested sh.o.r.e, rang the sweet Angelus. One may pray with some fervour when one's journey is at an end.

When the prayer was over, I walked to the gate of the chapel-yard, leading the willing Hoke, and at that moment a slender figure, clad all in black, his long robes flowing gracefully about him, his boyish face heightening the effect of his grave and serene demeanour, his thin, sensitive hands held forth in hearty welcome,--a welcome that was almost like a benediction, so spiritual was the love which it expressed,--came out, and I found myself in the arms of Pere Fidelis, feeling like one who has at least been permitted to kneel upon the threshold of his Mecca.

Why do our hearts sing _jubilate_ when we meet a friend for the first time? What is it within us that with its life-long yearning comes suddenly upon the all-sufficient one, and in a moment is crowned and satisfied? I could not tell whether I was at last waking from a sleep or just sinking into a dream. I could have sat there at his feet contented; I could have put off my worldly cares, resigned ambition, forgotten the past, and, in the blessed tranquillity of that hour, have dwelt joyfully under the palms with him, seeking only to follow in his patient footsteps until the end should come.

Perhaps it was the realization of an ideal that plunged me into a luxurious reverie, out of which I was summoned by _mon pere_, who hinted that I must be hungry. Prophetic father! hungry I was indeed.

_Mon pere_ led me to his little house with three rooms, and installed me host, himself being my ever-watchful attendant. Then he spoke: "The lads were at the sea, fis.h.i.+ng: would I excuse him for a moment?"

Alone in the little house, with a gla.s.s of claret and a hard biscuit for refreshment, I looked about me. The central room, in which I sat, was bare to nakedness: a few devotional books, a small clock high up on the wall, with a short wagging pendulum, two or three paintings, betraying more sentiment than merit, a table, a wooden form against the window, and a crucifix, complete its inventory. A high window was at my back; a door in front opening upon a verandah shaded with a pa.s.sion-vine; beyond it a green, undulating country running down into the sea; on either hand a little cell containing nothing but a narrow bed, a saint's picture, and a rosary. Kahele, having distributed the animals in good pasturage, lay on the verandah at full length, supremely happy as he jingled his spurs over the edge of the steps, and hummed a native air in subdued falsetto, like a mosquito.

Again I sank into a reverie. Enter _mon pere_ with apologies and a plate of smoking cakes made of eggs and batter, his own handiwork; enter the lads from the sea with excellent fish, knotted in long wisps of gra.s.s; enter Kahele, lazily sniffing the savoury odours of our repast with evident relish; and then supper in good earnest.

How happy we were, having such talks in several sorts of tongues, such polyglot efforts towards sociability,--French, English, and native in equal parts, but each broken and spliced to suit our dire necessity!

The candle flamed and flickered in the land-breeze that swept through the house,--unctuous waxen stalact.i.tes decorated it almost past recognition; the crickets sang l.u.s.tily at the doorway; the little natives grew sleepy and curled up on their mats in the corner; Kahele slept in his spurs like a born muleteer. And now a sudden conviction seized us that it was bedtime in very truth; so _mon pere_ led me to one of the cells, saying, "Will you sleep in the room of Pere Amabilis?"

Yea, verily, with all humility; and there I slept after the benediction, during which the young priest's face looked almost like an angel's in its youthful holiness, and I was afraid I might wake in the morning and find him gone, transported to some other and more lovely world.

But I didn't. Pere Fidelis was up before daybreak. It was his hand that clashed the joyful Angelus at sunrise that woke me from my happy dream; it was his hand that prepared the frugal but appetizing meal; he made the coffee, such rich, black, aromatic coffee as Frenchmen alone have the faculty of producing. He had an eye to the welfare of the animals also, and seemed to be commander-in-chief of affairs secular as well as ecclesiastical; yet he was so young!

There was a day of brief incursions mountain-ward, with the happiest results. There were welcomes showered upon me for his sake; he was ever ministering to my temporal wants, and puzzling me with dissertations in a.s.sorted languages.

By happy fortune a Sunday followed when the Chapel of the Palms was thronged with dusky wors.h.i.+ppers; not a white face present but the father's and mine own, yet a common trust in the blessedness of the life to come struck the key-note of universal harmony, and we sang the _Magnificat_ with one voice. There was something that fretted me in all this admirable experience: Pere Fidelis could touch neither bread nor water until after the last ma.s.s. Hour by hour he grew paler and fainter, spite of the heroic fort.i.tude that sustained his famis.h.i.+ng body.

"_Mon pere_," said I, "you must eat, or go to heaven betimes." He would not. "You must end with an earlier ma.s.s," I persisted. It was impossible: many paris.h.i.+oners came from miles away; some of these started at daybreak, as it was, and they would be unable to arrive in season for an earlier ma.s.s. Excellent martyr! thought I, to offer thy body a living sacrifice for the edification of these savage Christians!

At last he ate, but not until appet.i.te itself had perished. Then troops of children gathered about him clamouring to kiss the hand of the priestly youth; old men and women pa.s.sed him with heads uncovered, amazed at the devotion of one they could not hope to emulate.

Whenever I referred to his life, he at once led me to admire his fellow-apostle, who was continually in his thoughts. Pere Amabilis was miles away, repairing a chapel that had suffered somewhat in a late gale; Pere Amabilis would be so glad to see me; I must not fail to visit him; and for fear of some mischance, Pere Fidelis would himself conduct me to him.

The way was hard,--deep chasms to penetrate, swift streams to be forded, narrow and slippery trails to be threaded through forest, swamp, and wilderness. These obstacles separated the devoted friends, but not for long seasons. Pere Fidelis would go to him whom he had not laid eyes on for a fortnight at least.

The boy Kahele was glad of companions.h.i.+p; one of the small fishers, an acolyte of the chapel, would accompany us, and together they could lag behind, eating ohias and dabbling in every stream.

A long day's journey followed. We wended our way through jungles of lauhala, with slim roots in the air and long branches trailing about them like vines; they were like great cages of roots and branches in a woven snarl. We saw a rocky point jutting far into the sea. "Pere Amabilis dwells just beyond that cape," said my companion, fondly; and it seemed not very far distant; but our pace was slow and wearisome, and the hours were sure to distance us. We fathomed dark ravines whose farther walls were but a stone's throw from us, but in whose profound depths a swift torrent rushed madly to the sea, threatening to carry us to our destruction,--green, precipitous troughs, where the tide of mountain-rain was lashed into fury, and with its death-song drowned our voices and filled our animals with terror.

Now and then we paused to breathe, man and beast panting with fatigue; sometimes the rain drove us into the thick wood for shelter; sometimes a brief deluge, the offspring of a rent cloud at the head of the ravine, stayed our progress for half an hour, until its volume was somewhat spent and the stream was again fordable. Here we talked of the daily miracles in nature. Again and again the young fathers are called forth into the wilderness to attend on the sick and dying. Little chapels are hidden away among the mountains and through the valleys; all these must be visited in turn. Their life is an actual pilgrimage from chapel to chapel, which nothing but physical inability may interrupt.

At one spot I saw a tree under which Pere Fidelis once pa.s.sed a tempestuous night. On either side yawned a ravine swept by an impa.s.sable flood. There was no house within reach. On the soaked earth, with a pitiless gale sweeping over the land, from sunset to sunrise he lay without the consolation of one companion. Food was frequently scarce: a few limpets, about as palatable as parboiled shoe-leather, a paste of roast yams and water, a lime perhaps, and nothing besides but lumpy salt from the sea-sh.o.r.e.

While we were riding a herald met us bearing a letter for _mon pere_. It was a greeting from Pere Amabilis, who announced the chapel as rapidly nearing its complete restoration. Pere Fidelis fairly wept for joy at this intelligence, and burst into a panegyric upon the unrivalled ingenuity of his spiritual a.s.sociate. We were sure to surprise him at work, and this trifling episode seemed to be an event of some importance in the isolated life they led.

At sunset we pa.s.sed into the open vale of Wailuanui, and saw the chapel looking fresh and tidy on the slope of the hill toward the sea. Two waterfalls that fell against the sunset flashed like falling flame, and a soft haze tinged the slumberous solitudes of wood and pasture with the dream-like loveliness of a picture. There seemed to be but one sound audible,--the quick, sharp blows of a hammer. Pere Fidelis listened with eyes sparkling, and then rode rapidly onward.

Behold! from the chapel wall, high up on a scaffolding of boughs, his robes gathered about him, his head uncovered and hammer in hand, Pere Amabilis leaned forth to welcome us. The hammer fell to the earth. Pere Amabilis loosened his skirts and clasped his hands in unaffected rapture. We were three satisfied souls, asking for nothing beyond the hem of that lonely valley in the Pacific.

Of course there was the smallest possible house that could be lived in, for our sole accommodation, because but one priest needed to visit the district at a time, and a very young priest at that. A tiny bed in one corner of the room was thought sufficient, together with two plates, two cups, and a single spoon. Luxuries were unknown and unregretted.

"Well, father, what have you at this hotel?" said Pere Fidelis, as we came to the door of the cubby-house.

"Water," replied our host with a grave tone that had an undercurrent of truth in it.

But we were better provided for. Within an hour's time a reception took place: the native paris.h.i.+oners came forth to welcome Pere Fidelis and the stranger, each bringing some voluntary tribute,--a fish, a fowl lean enough to quiet the conscience of Pere Fidelis, an egg or two, or a bunch of taro.

Long talks followed; the news of the last month was discussed with much enthusiasm, and some few who had no opportunity of joining in the debate gave expression to their sentiments through such speaking eyes as savages usually are possessed of.

The welcome supper-hour approached. Willing hands dressed a fowl; swift feet plied between the spring and the kettle swung over the open camp-fire, children danced for very joy before the door of the chapel, under the statue of the Virgin, whose head was adorned with a garland of living flowers. The shadows deepened; stars seemed to cl.u.s.ter over the valley and glow with unusual fervour; the crickets sang mightily,--they are always singing mightily over yonder; supper came to the bare table with its meagre array of dishes; and, since I was forced to have a whole plate and a bowl, as well as the solitary spoon, for my whole use, the two young priests ate together from the same dish and drank from the same cup, and were as grateful and happy as the birds of the air under similar circ.u.mstances.

A merry meal, that! For us no weak tea, that satirical consoler, nor tea whose strength is bitterness, an abomination to the faithful, but _mon pere's_ own coffee, the very aroma of which was invigorating; then our friendly pipes out under the starlight, where we sat chatting amicably, with our three heads turbaned in an aromatic Virginian cloud.

I learned something of the life of these two friends during that social evening. Born in the same city in the north of France, reared in the same schools, graduated at the same university, each fond of life and acquainted with its follies, each in turn stricken with an illness that threatened death, together they came out of the dark valley with their future consecrated to the work that now absorbs them, the friends.h.i.+p of their childhood increasing with their years and sustaining them in a remote land, where their vow of poverty seems almost like sarcasm, since circ.u.mstances deprives them of all luxuries.

"Do you never long for home? do you never regret your vow?" I asked.

"Never!" they answered; and I believed them. "These old people are as parents to us; these younger ones are as brothers and sisters; these children we love as dearly as though they were our own. What more can we ask?"