All About Coffee Part 66

ABYSSINIA. The coffee grown in Abyssinia is cla.s.sified commercially into two varieties: Harari, which is grown princ.i.p.ally in the district around Harar; and Abyssinian, produced mainly in the provinces of Kaffa, Sidamo, and Guma. Harari coffee is the fruit of cultivated trees; while Abyssinian comes from wild trees. The first-named produces a long and well-shaped berry, and is often referred to as Longberry Harari. The bean is larger than the Mocha, but similar in general appearance. Its color shades from blue-green to yellow. Good grades of Harari have cup characteristics resembling Mocha, and by some are preferred to Mocha, because of their winier cup flavor. The Abyssinian coffee is considered much inferior to Harari; and chops generally contain many imperfections.

The bean is dark gray in color. Little Abyssinian coffee comes to the United States.

Many other African countries produce coffee; but little of it ever reaches the North American market. Uganda, in British East Africa, grows a good grade of _robusta_ coffee which is valued on the London market.

Liberian coffee, grown on the west coast, used to be mixed with Bourbon Santos to some extent; but it is generally considered low grade, although it makes a handsome, elephantine roast. The product of Guinea is a very small bean, half-way between a peaberry and a flat bean, and has a dingy brown color. It is considered worthless as a drink. A medium-sized, strong-flavored bean that is rich in the cup, is grown in the African Congo district. In Angola a fair quant.i.ty of coffee is produced. In the cup it has a strong and pungent flavor, but lacks smoothness and aroma. Zanzibar produces a pleasing coffee in very limited quant.i.ties. The bean is medium size, and regular in shape.

Mozambique's coffee is greenish in color, of medium size, and mellow.

The production is small. Madagascar produces an insignificant quant.i.ty for export, although the coffee is considered fair average, with rich flavor, and considerable fragrance. Bourbon coffee, grown on the island of Reunion, commands a high price in the French market, where practically all exports go. It is a small, flinty bean, and gives a rich cup and fragrance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: WASHED JAVA BEANS--ROASTED]

_East Indian Islands_

Some of the coffees from the East Indian islands rank among the best in the world, particularly those from Sumatra. East India coffees are distinguished by their smooth, heavy body in the cup, the fancy grades giving an almost syrupy richness.

JAVA. Java coffees are generally of a smaller bean than those from Sumatra, and are not considered as high grade. The bulk of the new-crop growths have a gra.s.sy flavor which most people find unpleasant when drunk straight. Under the old culture system, coffee was bought by the government, and held in G.o.downs from two to three years, until it had become mellow with age. In late years, this system has been abandoned; and the planters now sell their product as they please, and in most cases without mellowing, excepting as they age during the long sea voyage from Batavia to destination. Before the advent of large fleets of steamers in the East Indian trade, the coffee was brought to America in sailing vessels that required from three to four months for the trip.

During the voyage, the coffee went through a sweating process which turned the beans from a light green to a dark brown, and considerably enhanced their cup values. The sweating was due to the coffee being loaded while moist, and then practically sealed in the vessel's hold during all its trip through the tropical seas. As a consequence, the cargo steamed and foamed; and as a rule, part of the coffee became moldy, the damage seldom extending more than an inch or two into the mats. Sweated coffees commanded from three to five cents more than those that came in "pale".

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Mild Coffee Map--No. 2_

_Showing the Mild Coffee-Producing Countries of Asia, Netherlands India, and Australasia_

Copyright, 1922 by The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal Co.]

Before the Java coffee trade began to decline in the latter part of the nineteenth century, _Coffea arabica_ was grown abundantly throughout the island. Each residency had numerous estates, and their names were given to the coffees produced. The best coffees came from Preanger, Cheribon, Buitenzorg, and Batavia, ranking in merit in the order named. All Java coffees are known commercially either as private growth, or as blue bean washed, the former being cured by either the was.h.i.+ng or the dry hulling method, while the latter are washed. Private growths are usually a pale yellow, the bean being short and round and slightly convex. It makes a handsome even roast, showing a full white stripe. The washed variety is a pale blue-green, the bean closely resembling the private growth in form and roast. These coffees have a distinctive character in the cup that is much different from any other coffee grown. Their liquor is thin.

All the better known coffees of Java, which are designated by the districts in which they are grown, are listed in the Complete Reference Table. Coffee from few of the many districts comes to the North American market. Among those that are sold in the United States are the Kadoe and Semarang, both of which are small, yellowish green; and the Malang, a green, hard bean which makes a better roast than Kadoe and Semarang, but is inferior to them in the cup.

SUMATRA. Sumatra has the reputation of producing some of the finest and highest-priced coffees in the world, such as Mandheling, Ankola, Ayer Bangies, Padang Interior, and Palembang. Mandheling coffee is a large, brownish bean which roasts dull, but is generally free from quakers. It is very heavy in body, and has a unique flavor that easily distinguishes it from any other growth. The Ankola bean is shorter and better-appearing than Mandheling, but otherwise bears a close resemblance. Its flavor is only slightly under Mandheling; and, like that coffee, is recommended for blending with the best grades of Mocha.

While the Ayer Bangies bean is somewhat larger than the other two just mentioned, it is not so dark brown in color, and is not quite so heavy in body; the flavor is very delicate. These three growths are known in the trade as the "Fancies" and are considered the best of Sumatra's production.

The Sumatra coffee best known to the American trade is the Padang Interior, which is s.h.i.+pped through the port of Padang on Sumatra's west coast. The bean is irregular in form and color, and makes a dull roast.

However, the flavor is good, although it lacks the richness of the Fancies. Another celebrated coffee grown on the west coast is the Boekit Gompong, grown on the estate of that name near Padang. It is a high-grade coffee, making a handsome roast, and possessing a delicate flavor. The foregoing coffees are produced on what were formerly termed government estates, and during the heyday of government control were sold by auction and came mostly to the United States.

Among the private estate coffees, Corinchies take first rank for quality, some traders saying that they are the best in international commerce. They closely resemble Ankolas, but range a cent or two lower in price. Next in order of merit is Timor coffee, grown on the island of that name. It is not as attractive in appearance, roast, or cup quality as the Corinchie. A grade below Timors is Boengie coffee, which is seldom seen on the North American market. Kroe coffee is better known and more widely used in the United States. The bean is large, but has an attractive appearance. Kroes are of heavy body, of somewhat groundy flavor when new crop, and are good roasters and blenders. Other East Indian coffees are Teagals, Balis, and Maca.s.sars, all of which are second-rate growths as compared with the bulk of Sumatras, grade for grade. The Maca.s.sars are produced in the district of that name on island of Celebes. The best coffee grown in Celebes comes from the province of Menado, and is known by that name. It is thought to be of a superior quality, and commands a high price in Europe.

_The Pacific Islands_

The Philippine Islands have not figured in international coffee trade since 1892, although in preceding years the Philippines exported several million pounds of an average good grade of coffee. While coffee is one of the shade trees used by householders in Guam, none of the fruit is exported. Coffee production is an unimportant industry in Samoa, Australia, New Guinea, New Caledonia, and other Pacific islands, and none is grown for export.

HAWAII. Since the beginning of the twentieth century the Hawaiian islands have taken a position of increasing importance, s.h.i.+pping some two million pounds of good quality coffee to the United States, their biggest customer. Coffee grows to some extent on all the islands of the group, but fully ninety-five percent is raised in the districts of Kona, Puna, and Hamakua on the main island of Hawaii. All Hawaiian coffee is high grade; and is generally large bean, blue-green in color when new crop, and yellow-brown when aged. It makes a handsome roast, and has a fine flavor that is smooth and not too acid. It blends well with any high-grade mild coffee. Kona coffee, grown in the district of that name, commands the highest price. Old-crop Kona coffee is said by some trade authorities to be equal to either Mocha or Old Government Java.

_Appearance, Aroma, and Flavor in Cup-Testing_

Before the beginning of the twentieth century, practically all the coffees bought and sold in the United States were judged for merit simply by the appearance of the green or of the roasted bean. Since that time, the importance of testing the drinking qualities has become generally recognized; and today every progressive coffee buyer has his sample-roasting and testing outfit with which to carry out painstaking cup tests. Both buyers and sellers use the cup test, the former to determine the merits of the coffee he is buying, and the latter to ascertain the proper value of the chop under consideration. Frequently a test is made to fix the relative desirability of various growths considered as a whole, using composite samples that are supposed to give representation to an entire crop.

The first step in testing coffee is to compare the appearance of the green bean of a chop with a sample of known standard value for that particular kind of coffee. The next step is to compare the appearance when roasted. Then comes the appearance and aroma test, when it is ground; and finally, the most difficult of all, the trial of the flavor and aroma of the liquid.

Naturally the tester gives much care to proper roasting of the samples to be examined. He recognizes several different kinds of roasts which he terms the light, the medium, the dark, the Italian, and the French roasts, all of which vary in the shadings of color, and each of which gives a different taste in the cup. The careful tester watches the roast closely to see whether the beans acquire a dull or bright finish, and to note also if there are many quakers, or off-color beans. When the proper roasting point is reached, he smells the beans while still hot to determine their aroma. In some growths and grades, he will frequently smell of them as they cool off, because the character changes as the heat leaves them, as in the case of many Maracaibo grades.

After roasting, the actual cup-testing begins. Two methods are employed, the blind cup test, in which there is no clue to the ident.i.ty of the kind of coffee in the cup; and the open test, in which the tester knows beforehand the particular coffee he is to examine. The former is most generally employed by buyers and sellers; although a large number of experts who do not let their knowledge interfere with their judgment, use the open method.

In both systems the amount of ground coffee placed in the cup is carefully weighed so that the strength will be standard. Generally, the cups are marked on the bottom for identification after the examination.

Before pouring on the hot water to make the brew, the aroma of the freshly ground coffee is carefully noted to see if it is up to standard.

In pouring the water, care is exercised to keep the temperature constant in the cups, so that the strength in all will be equal. When the water is poured directly on the grounds, a crust or sc.u.m is formed. Before this crust breaks, the tester sniffs the aroma given off; this is called the wet-smell, or crust, test, and is considered of great importance.

Of course, the taste of the brew is the most important test. Equal amounts of coffee are sipped from each cup, the tester holding each sip in his mouth only long enough to get the full strength of the flavor. He spits out the coffee into a large bra.s.s cuspidor which is designed for the purpose. The expert never swallows the liquor.

Cup-testing calls for keenly developed senses of sight, smell, and taste, and the faculty for remembering delicate shadings in each sense.

By sight, the coffee man judges the size, shape, and color of the green and roasted bean, which are important factors in determining commercial values. He can tell also whether the coffee is of the washed or unwashed variety, and whether it contains many imperfections such as quakers, pods, stones, brokens, off-colored beans, and the like. By his sense of smell of the roast and of the brew, he gauges the strength of the aroma, which also enters into the valuation calculation. His palate tells him many things about a coffee brew--if the drink has body and is smooth, rich, acidy, or mellow; if it is winy, neutral, harsh, or Rioy; if it is musty, groundy, woody, or gra.s.sy; or if it is rank, hidey (sour), muddy, or bitter. These are trade designations of the different shades of flavor to be found in the various coffees coming to the North American market; and each has an influence on the price at which they will be sold.

The up-to-date cup-tester requires special equipment to get the best results. A typical installation consists of a gas sample-roasting outfit, employing at least a single cylinder holding about six ounces of coffee, and perhaps a battery of a dozen or more; an electric grinding mill; a testing table, with a top that can be revolved by hand; a pair of accurately adjusted balance scales; one or more bra.s.s kettles; a gas stove for heating water; sample pans; many china or gla.s.s cups; silver spoons; and a bra.s.s cuspidor that stands waist high and is shaped like an hour gla.s.s.

Since the World War, there have been some notable changes in the buying of coffees, particularly in European markets. For example, the old idea of buying fancy coffees at fancy prices is probably gone for good in Europe.

[Ill.u.s.tration: TYPICAL SAMPLE-ROASTING AND CUP-TESTING OUTFIT

In the middle of the picture is a standard revolving table (3-1/2 feet in diameter), with scale mounted over the center, and with a "Mitch.e.l.l Tray" for holding one cup independent of the table-top movement. There are two cuspidors, a double kettle outfit, a 6-cylinder sample roaster and a motor-driven sample grinder; also a set of sample separator sieves in the overhead rack, a bag sampler (lying on the lower shelf of the counter), and some coffee crushers (one on the end of the counter and one on the revolving table)]

COMPLETE REFERENCE TABLE

OF

THE PRINc.i.p.aL KINDS OF COFFEE GROWN IN THE WORLD

_Together with Their Trade Values and Cup Characteristics_

_t_, indicates town or trading center; _m n_, market name; _d_, district or state.

---------------+------------+---------------+-------------- --------------- State, or Trade Values Grand Division Country s.h.i.+pping Ports District, and Cup Market Names Characteristics Gradings ---------------+------------+---------------+--------------+--------------- North America Mexico Vera Cruz Mexicans _In general_: on Gulf of Mex. Mexicans are mild or mellow.

The green beans are greenish to yellow (when aged) and of large size. The washed coffees make a handsome roast, showing p.r.o.nounced white central stripe.

In the cup they have a full rich body, fine acidity, and a wonderful _bouquet_.

Vera Cruz, d Acid, of Coatepec, m n excellent heavy (pro., and rich co-at-e-pec) flavor;fine for blending.

Huatusco, t Fine appearing (pro., washed coffee; wha-toos-co) next to Coatepec for acid and blending qualities.

Orizaba, t Regarded as next to Huatusco; good cup quality.

Jalapa, t Stylish (pro., roaster; ha-lap-a) frequently light body.

Cordoba, t Neutral, smooth in flavor, without acid tang; good body.

Puerto Mexico Tabasco, d & Of uncertain on Gulf of Mex. m n character; many Coatzacoalcos, of them Rioy, t & m n flat, and groundy.

Unsatisfactory in the cup.

Salina Cruz Chiapas, d Resembles on Pacific Soconusco, t, Guatemala m n Coatzacoalcos or coffees; (Puerto Mexico) Tapachula, smooth in on Gulf of Mex. t, m n character, and without decided tang.

Oaxaca, d, m n Small bean; & t (pr., excellent wah-hock-ah) quality, sharply Sierra Oaxaca acid, fine (common - flavor, but not unwashed) stylish in Pluma Oaxaca appearance.

(hidalgo- The Pluma is a washed) very fancy bean coffee, also acid and fine for blending.

Acapulco Guerrero, d Inferior in on Pacific Sierra, m n quality; low growth and woody.

Manzanillo Michoacan, d A superior on Pacific Unrapan, t coffee, but not produced in commercial quant.i.ty.

Do. Colima, d, m n Very like & t Uruapan.