Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 15

The Irrawaddi here is between the extreme banks a little less than 1.5 miles broad; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the largest, and is 800 yards across. Two other channels exist, of which the west is the smallest, and carries off least water. The river is a good deal sub-divided by sandbanks, but is, compared with the Burrumpooter a confined river. Since our arrival here it has sunk several (say five or six) feet, and no longer looks the n.o.ble river it did on our arrival.

The sandbanks when they do exist are either naked, or clothed with partial and not gigantic gra.s.sy vegetation. I have not seen any thing comparable to the churs of the B. pooter in this respect. The temperature of the river is not particularly low, and is much higher now than during the rise. From Bamoo the opening of the Kioukdweng is not conspicuous, n.o.body unacquainted with the course of the river would imagine that it pa.s.ses through the range of hills to the N. and NNE. The highest hills visible are to the east. They are within a day's journey, and are clothed to their summits. Some appear 3000 feet high.

Low hills inhabited by wild Khukeens, are visible nearly all around, except perhaps due west. The wild fierce nature of these people is attended with a great extent of mischief, quite unchecked, without eliciting even precautionary measures on the part of the Burmese Government.

There are a few angles in the Bamoo stockade, and these exist because a straight line cannot be preserved; and large torches are placed out on levers for illuminating the enemy, and loop-holes are cut through the timbers; watch-houses are likewise placed at certain points. There are two rows of _pangahs_ or fences outside, but not the Singpho pangahs.

Notwithstanding all this the river face is quite defenceless.

The soil is dry and sandy, and cultivation is carried on princ.i.p.ally on the churs. Pumpkins and Gourds are abundant; Yams, (Dioscorea,) not very good. Rice is sold at the usual price, a basket full for a rupee. The town is dirty, and not kept in any order.

_May 6th_.--We left Bamoo, and in three hours reached Kounglaun, a rather large village on the left bank, containing 100 houses, many of which are respectable, better indeed than any in Bamoo. It contains many small ruined paG.o.das. A gigantic tree grows within the stockade, which is a very poor one. Punica Granatum, and Beloe, were the only plants of interest observed in the neighbourhood.

We pa.s.sed several (six or seven) villages, none except one with more than thirty houses; the one alluded to had sixty. All the houses continue small. The river is here much subdivided, and in many places shallow; sandbanks are common. Vegetation of banks is almost entirely Gramineae, and coa.r.s.e strong-smelling Compositae. The gra.s.ses are different from those previously met with, except the Arundo. Rosa continues; Salix is common. Between Koungloung and Tsenkan, which is on the same bank, and close to the entrance to the Kioukdweng, three villages are met with; but none of any size. Tsenkan is prettily situated on a high bank, or rather low hill. The houses are about 100 in number, all poor and small. The stockade is a miserable affair. There are some good Poonghie houses, and a very pretty group of paG.o.das on a small rock. The country is jungly; just above the town a nullah enters the Irrawaddi: it is down this that large quant.i.ties of teak is brought, from hills two days' journey to the eastward; some large rafts were seen, but although some of the timbers were stout, none were of any great size. I gathered a pretty Hippocrateaceous plant in the jungles, as well as a Combretum; a Vitex, an Amyridea, etc. Phrynium dichotomum occurs here; Rosa continues; Jatropha is cultivated.

_May 7th_.--Started at 5 A.M., and entered the Kioukdweng almost immediately. We halted about 7, at Tsenbo. Noticed AEsculus, Sisymbrium, Campanula, Adelia nereifolia, Dillania speciosa, the usual Compositae, and largish Dipterocarpeae. The river is a good deal narrowed, but never less than 130 yards across, and as there are no rocks in any direction to impede the stream, the water flows but slowly and very placidly. Almost all the rocks forming the hills are grey carbonate of lime. These hills are covered to high-water mark, with scanty somewhat stunted trees, the most of which have no foliage. The scenery is by no means so bold as in the upper K. dweng, although just above Tsenbo, there is a n.o.ble cliff, 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular; under its ledges we observed great numbers of bees' nests. The rock when exposed is rather greyish black, and in many places reddish. Serpentine occurs, but is not common. A good deal of lime is prepared in this Kioukdweng, and some portions of it in the rugged serrated appearance, remind one of the limestone cliffs on the coast. Above Tsenbo and nearly opposite the cliff, is a small village of eight houses. Tsenbo numbers fifteen; it is on the left bank, and is a miserable place. Here we were left by our escort which accompanied us from Tsenkan, and the Thogee refused positively to give us two or three men to row. Although master of a miserable hole, he had made preparations for defence, and had set on foot a custom house. We saw a good many boats pa.s.sing up, all evidently containing families moving away from their villages.

In this Kioukdweng a fine Palm exists, which I have never seen before.

Caudex 10-15 pedalis, cra.s.sa, petiolorum basibus processibus vest.i.tis, frondibus pinnatis, 10 pedalibus, pinnis ensifornibus 2 to 2.5 pedalibus, subtus glaucis, diametro 1.5 uncialibus, basi valde obliquis, bilobis!

lobo inferiore maximo, decurrenti, uninervi: floribus in spadicibus nutanti-curvatis, amplis, basi spathaceis spicato-paniculatis. Florib.

masculis polyandris.

Petiol. bases cretosae, intus processubus atris, subulatis, longissimis robustis quasi panicillatis.

Habitus quodammodo Wallichiae. Hab. in Umbrosissimis.

An arbuscula Anonacea, floribus dioicis, Mas. corollae petalis apice valvatim cohaerentibus, basi apertis, potius distantibus, Ovariis (faem) pedicellatis, also occurred.

Fructus elliptico-oblongus, subuncialis, hinc a basi ad styli punctum linea tenui exsculptus, unilocularis, unisporus. Endocarp, ac testa viscoso-gelatinosa. Testa ac tegumen intera membr. chartacea. Alb.u.men copiosum hinc et suturae fructus oppositae, profundius exarat. sectione transversa-reniformi. Carnoso alb.u.meni germen secus sulc.u.m affixium.

Embryo in axi alb.u.minis, radicul super. Cotyledones foliaceae, albae, amplae, curvat seminis sequentes: suturae placental, oppositae. Ejusdem generis c.u.m Menispermea: in sylvis Singfoensibus c.u.m Wallichia: vide Icones.

Arrived at Kioukgyee at 5 P.M. Waited on and dined with the Meewoon, who is a gentlemanly, spare, lively man with grey hair. Dinner was good, and clean. Preserved dried jujubes from China, as well as some preserved by himself were very good. Kioukgyee is on the right bank of the river, which is here undivided by islands, and about 1200 yards broad. Just above the town there are some rocks. The number of houses is about eighty-five, most of them arranged in a broad street running along the river, and the best that I have seen for some time.

The village is surrounded by a new and wretched stockade, the outskirts being fenced or _pangaed_; the people are on the qui vive, and the whole village seems to be in a constant state of alarm. All the jungle immediately adjoining the town is cut down; many of the houses are unroofed, and all the gates are guarded. Visited this morning the lines occupied by the attacking force; these were not 300 yards from the village, and occupied the skirts of the jungle: trees had been felled and earth thrown up, but not in such a manner as to obstruct in any way tolerably brave men. We saw none of the slain, we may therefore doubt if there were any, but it was evident from platters, etc. strewed about, that the flight of the robbers had been very precipitate. We pa.s.sed some little distance above this, a holy island, the numberless small paG.o.das on which, had a very pretty effect. Close to these there was a small village, Sheweygyoo, which had been just burnt down by the Kioukgyee people, for giving a.s.sistance to the robbers; this as well as two other contiguous villages before occupied a good extent of the left bank, and numbered probably 150 houses. Most of the inhabitants have retreated up the river.

_May 8th_.--Reached Katha at 6 P.M. Throughout the day saw little of interest. What we did see, gave evident tokens of disturbances,: villages deserted; dogs starved, howling piteously; canoes without owners. At one village a few miles below Kioukgit, our arrival caused much excitement, and a gun was fired off as a signal of alarm on our approach.

_May 9th_.--Katha is on the right bank of the Irrawaddi; it is situated on an eminence, and commands a fine view of a fine reach of the river; the situation indeed is excellent. It contains nearly 200 houses, but these are not of the better description. To the west is a fine chain of hills, the lowest ranges of which are distant about one mile and a half; the highest peaks are perhaps 1500 feet. No signs of alarm or disturbances are here visible, although part of the force that invested Kioukgit came from this village. We here learn the agreeable news that the country below is quiet, and that no robbers now infested the road.

The Thogee is a fine looking young man; very polite. This village boasts of some pretty paG.o.das, well grouped, and a very fine _Kiown_, the workmans.h.i.+p of which astonished me, particularly the carving; it is built of teak, the posts being very stout, and very numerous. Several merchant boats left before us, apparently anxious for our escort.

Behind the town is a large plain used for the cultivation of paddy.

Otherwise the jungle comes close to the houses, although the larger trees have been felled for firewood, etc.: the woods are dry, and tolerably open. In the morning I went out towards the hills; the chief timber trees are a fine Dipterocarpus, and a Hopea; Pentapetes likewise occurs; Terminalia Chebula. Gathered a fine Arum, somewhat like A. campanulatum.

An arboreous Gardenia, as at Mergui; Myrtacea, Vitex, Bauhinia of yesterday; Randia, Andropogon aciculare; some stunted bamboos were likewise observed. Altogether Katha is the prettiest place I have yet seen. The river opposite it is confined to one bed, about 500 yards broad.

_May 9th_.--Left at 7 A.M., and reached the mouth of the Shwe Lee at 1 P.M.; the distance according to B. being sixteen miles. Pa.s.sed a few villages, but none of any size; the houses of all continue of the same description. The river presents the same features. Salix continues.

Sandbanks occupied by annual Compositae occur, two Polygona, Campanula, a Ranunculus, much like that of Suddiya, a l.a.b.i.ata, Paronychia, two Spermacoces; Bombax occurs just below Katha; Salix and Rosa continue.

Shwe Lee is a considerable river, at the mouth between 4 and 500 yards broad; but one-third of this is unoccupied by water, and the stream is not deep, although of the ordinary strength. Above, it narrows considerably.

7.5 P.M. Temperature of the air 76 degrees. Of Irrawaddi 74 degrees.

_May 9th_.--Tsa-gaiya. This is a mean village on the left bank, about eighteen miles from Katha; it is close to a low range of hills, and occupies part of a plain, which is adapted for paddy cultivation. Near the village to the North, is a small _jeel_, covered to a great extent with a large Scirpus, Jussiaea, Azolla, Salvinia, etc. Water-fruits are abundant; round this paddy is cultivated, and they appear to cut it at this time. Low ground near the jeel is covered with a low, handsome Stravadium or Barringtonia, as well as a Xanthophyllum, resembling exceedingly in appearance a Leguminosa: the wood is hard. Calamus is also common. A handsome Nauclea occurs, and on the gra.s.sy margins of the plain a small Euphrasia is common.

During our stage I observed large quant.i.ties of Bombax, and a tree apparently the Beloe of a.s.sam; the banks were either gra.s.sy or wooded, especially on the right bank, which is skirted entirely by hills of the same barren looking description. The gra.s.ses are all small compared with those of a.s.sam.

_May 10th_.--Reached Tagoung late in the evening at 7.5: distance thirty-two miles. The river continues the same; the hills on the left bank are much broken into ravines: all continue clothed with the same stunted vegetation.

_May 11th_.--Tagoung is a miserable village on the left bank; it occupies a rocky eminence, and contains less than 100 houses. It is the most inferior village I have yet seen, the streets being dreadfully dirty and the houses very mean. We visited an old paG.o.da, about a mile from the town, which is surrounded by an antique wall, much obscured by jungle, and more resembling a bund. On our route hither we landed at Thigan, a village containing about forty houses, and prettily situated at the foot of a hill of micaceous sandstone, on the right bank. At this place are the remains of a fort built by the Chinese, of slabs of the rock forming the hill. Similar remains exist at Myadoung, on the opposite bank, as I learn from Mr. Bayfield. I gathered a Sida, Capparis, Prionitis, Gnaphalium, and a Xanthoxylia petiolis alatis armata; an Adiantum grows between the slabs composing the wall. At Tsenkan I observed an Agave, a different Cactus, a fleshy Euphorbia; and an Anana.s.sa is common all about.

About Tagoung the botany is varied, and interesting. I gathered about fifteen plants that had not occurred before, two Poae, two Andropogons, a Zanthoxylum, and an Olax. The most interesting is an Apocynea, floribus infundibulifor. lamina reflexa, fauce squamis dentatis 10, serie duplici dispositis, interioribus petalis oppositis et majoribus, antheris, in conum stigma omnino coadunatis. Cotton cultivated here; plants taller than usual. The villages around are all forsaken owing to one of them having been attacked by Khukeens, and two men carried off. Hence the population at Tagoung, although usually scanty, is now much increased from adjoining places. A small river falls into the Irrawaddi immediately above Tagoung.

_May 12th_.--Reached Male about 6 P.M. Pa.s.sed _en route_ a few villages, none of any size or importance. The river varies in width, _i.e_. the channel, from 400 to 600 yards. The banks are either alluvial or rocky; and there are hills on the right bank skirting the river; those on the left, are more distant and higher. Bora.s.sus commences to be common; it is a taller, and more slender tree than that of Coromandel, and the trunk is not covered with the persistent bases of the petioles.

The village of Tsebainago is opposite to Male, and appears nearly of the same size. Both are situated close to the mouth of the third Kioukdweng.

Male contains 150 houses, all small; it is a place of no trade. To the north is a hill forming the river bank, and covered with paG.o.das; it is the prettiest place we observed after Katha. The soil has now put on the dry sterile appearance of the Coromandel coast, all the trees of which, except the figs, are common; and often render the banks very pretty.

Tectona of Hamilton is very common; it is a tree not exceeding in height 40 feet, much resembling in habit the more valuable species; the flowers are blueish, particularly the villi; the leaves have the same excessive rough feel. Two other Verbenaceae, a curious Capparidea, caule laxo, foliis lineari-oblongis, basi hastato-cordatis, and a Ximenia are common.

On the banks Stravadium, and an arboreous Butea, a Combretum, are common.

Low stunted bamboos likewise prevail; and all the bushes are p.r.i.c.kly.

Nyctanthes is cultivated. The rocks as well as those forming the Kioukdweng, are of coa.r.s.e sandstone, here and there affording nourishment to abortive Compositae, stunted gra.s.ses, Mollugo, etc.

Left Male, and entered immediately the last Kioukdweng on descending, or the first defile on ascending against the stream. This is a pretty pa.s.sage, and moreover has no dangerous places; the hills are low, lower than those of the two former pa.s.ses, consisting of sandstone partially clothed with the same scanty vegetation, presenting the same barren appearance. Olax, Fici, Leguminosa, stunted bamboos, Hippocrateacea, Mimosa, and Stravadium, occur. Celsia on sandy spots, together with Campanula, but this last is becoming rare. Adelia nereifolia continues.

An arundo occurs on the naked rocks; Ca.s.sia fistula, Tectona Hamiltoniana are also present.

We are much impeded by south-west winds; and owing to this and the slowness of the stream, we were compelled to remain some time at Thee-ha- dau. We there had excellent opportunities of seeing the fish, which are so very tame as to come up to the sides of the boat, and even to allow themselves to be handled. The faqueers of the place call them together; but I think they are not much disposed to come from mere calling, for they seem to require more substantial proofs of being wanted, in the shape of food: they are found in still water in a small bay, which is closed up still more from the influence of the stream by a round island, constructed superficially on a rocky base, and on which paG.o.das are built. They resemble a good deal the Gooroa Mas of a.s.sam, but have no large teeth as this has. They are very greedy, of a blueish grey colour, occasionally inclining to red; the feelers are in some forked: they have no scales.

We continued our course when the wind lulled; halted to dine on a sandbank, and proceeded on afterwards, until we reached Kabuct about 8.5 P.M. On the sandbank where we dined I gathered a Crotalaria, Campanula, Cleome, a Graminea, Polygonum, Cyperaceae, and a Dentelloidea. The villages seen were all small.

_May 13th_.--Left Kabuct before 6. Halted to breakfast on a steep bank, finding it impossible to proceed against the south-west winds, which have now become prevalent.

At this place, which is hilly, I gathered Gmelina villosa, an Anonacea, calyce 6 sepalis, cor. tripetala, pet. patentissimis, margine revolutis, luteis. A Carissa, Grewia, Malpighiacea samaris, 3-alatis, alis dorsalibus abbreviatis, a curious Graminea, a green Orchidea, terrestris, bulbosa, flore ante folia evoluta, a Diospyros, Polygala, Plectranthus, Rungia, Pladera, etc.

Halted at Movo, owing to the wind. This is a very pretty village; of no great size, and of no importance. A delightful tope formed by Mango, Fig, and Garcinia, or Xanthochymus, the dense shade of which is most agreeable; Averrhoa, AEgle Marmelos is cultivated here; Bora.s.sus is common, trunks of which are often of very irregular diameter. Low gra.s.sy places occur running along the back of the village, with abundance of a Combretum fruticosum; and a nullah at either end of the village presents many trees on its banks, particularly a very large and handsome Myrtacea, Hemarthria compressa. Stravadium racemis longe pendulis.

We were compelled to put into Mala on the right bank, about a mile above Tsengoo, by a severe storm from the north-west. This village consists of about forty houses, many paG.o.das, and has a good many potteries, and some fine trees. It is at the entrance of the Kioukdweng. Observed Jatropha Curcas, and Vitex negrendo. In the evening we proceeded to Tsenbou.

_May 14th_.--Left Tsenbou, and breakfasted at Nbat Kiown-wa. Just above this are several villages, two of which number nearly seventy houses each. This is the most populous part I have seen. To the east of this are the Ruby mines in the Shan hills; and to the south-east low hills from which the marble is procured, from which they make the idols.

The river features continue the same; namely, low hills close to the right bank, and more distant as well as higher ones on the left. On the Shan hills to the east, teak forests occur; on those to the west, tea also grows. In Polong tea districts also occur; but the tea is very coa.r.s.e, and said not to be drinkable. Hemarthria, and Hoya viridiflora were found.

Here I found Solanum, Tribulus, a Mimosa, lime trees, Carissa, Mimusops, Stemodia ruderalis now appear. The most interesting is a small diffuse Caryoplylleous-looking plant, with white Campanulate flowers; it is probably a Frankeniacea. On the paG.o.das an Aristella grows. Certain features prevail in the vegetation similar to those of the Coromandel coast. Fig trees often surrounded at base with brick-work; this never lasts long, the roots tearing up the masonry in every direction.

The exit from this 3rd Kioukdweng is very pretty. Tsengru with its numerous white paG.o.das; the n.o.ble river expanded into a broad bay; the Eastern hills are very beautiful, and the Marble hills which form a background to Tsenbou are no less so. The banks towards the exit from the defile are sloping, often covered with gra.s.s. The Palmyra trees and Fig trees have a very pleasing effect. At Kiougyoung there is a large brick fort, built by Alompras. The village contains about 150 houses: no large village is pa.s.sed between this and Kubuct.

Halted above Sheemnaga to look at Gaudama's foot, a piece of workmans.h.i.+p contained in a paG.o.da; it is a very large foot, with a central circular impression. This is about a mile below Endawka. Sheemnaga never contained more than 400 houses, I counted upwards of 180, and although extensive traces of fire, and of new houses existed, I should reckon it to have contained only about 300. At the PaG.o.da I gathered a curious Rutaceous-looking decandrous th.o.r.n.y tree, with foliis bijugis.

Reached Mengoon about 7 P.M. Landed at the commencement of the sandstone hills, which in some places a.s.sume the form of cliffs: texture very loose. They are full of holes, and abound with blue rock Pigeons.

Gathered a Murraya. Trichodesma indicus and Compositae, Asclepiadea, Calotropis gigantea, and a curious Arenariod-looking plant.

_May 15th_.--Mengoon boasts of a huge unfinished PaG.o.da, consisting as it now stands of an immense square brick ma.s.s, surrounded by four fine broad raised terraces; it would have been, had it been finished, upwards of 700 feet high. The dome was to have been with angular sides. Height 170 feet; the bas.e.m.e.nt, as may be supposed, is immense. The plan or model of it was first built in a small adjoining grove to the south, by the grandfather of the present king. The whole kingdom must have been occupied in its erection. The entrance to it is guarded by two huge Griffins. Several large bells lie close to it. The country around is hilly; the hills low, raviny, and clothed with stunted vegetation.

Beautiful topes exist along the river bank, between this and the cliffs before alluded to; consisting chiefly of fine mango trees, n.o.ble Fici likewise occur. About Mengoon, Jatropha Curcas is common. Gymnemea, Calatropis gigantea, and Argemone abound. We found a Pergularia, Lippia, Zyzyphus, and one or two small Euphorbiaceae. The soil is dry, sandy, and barren.

We reached Ava about 1 o'clock.