Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 34

At the bed of the torrent 4,000 feet, Ba.s.sia.

Over the Kooree, Euphorbia antiqorum, a sure sign of aridity.

Didymocarpea contorta, D. canescens, which differs from the other in being hirsute, Menispermum, Holcus elegans.

Along its bed, Sedum of Phoollong, Eugenia, Achyranthis, Ingoides arborea, Aspidium polypodioides, Briedleia obovata; Desmodium of Nulka!

Arundo, Buddlaea neemdoides, Jasminum of Benka, Composita, involucri squamis ciliatis. Rice fields, in these Gnaphalium aureum, Phleoides of Ta.s.sangsee, but in full flower, Lysimachia majus, rugosus, Oxalis comiculata, Hieracioid, Composita, Lactucoid purpureseus, Ammannia, Bidens alba, Drymaria.

Then along the wooded banks, Wendlandia, _Pomacea_? Mimosa arborea, Camunium, Butea suffruticosa, Pterospermum of Bhamree, Luculia, Ulmus, as before, Pinus longifolia, Rottlera, Melica latifolia, young plants of Q.

robur on rocks, along with it Goodyera articulata, Urticoid rhombifolia, carnosa; on rocks up Khoomun, Orthotrichum corcalypta. At the bridge over this, a Myrtaceous tree and the Simool occur. The plants occur during the ascent, as in the descent. Water-wagtails, blackbirds, tomt.i.ts, were observed, as also white-pated and white-rumped water-chats.

_February 19th_.--Ling-Ling or Lengloon.

_February 20th_.--To-day we visited the Soobah, who is a young man, certainly not more than twenty years old, with a good humoured countenance. The meeting was cordial but unattended with any state, and judging from appearances only, this Soobah is inferior to the others we have seen, and especially to him of Ta.s.sgong. No armed men were present, and the whole bystanders scarcely amounted to 100. It was agreed that we remain here until the baggage, now in the rear, arrives. Tonsa is, we hear, only four or five days journey from this.

The meeting took place in an open plot of ground below the Soobah's house and on the skirts of the village, the ground was matted and a s.p.a.ce enclosed with mats: we sat in the open air; the Soobah under a silken canopy. Altogether he seemed a person of no pretensions, crowds, speaking comparatively, of priests attended as usual, they were the slickest looking of the whole, and the greatest beggars. A hideous party of _nachnees_ were in attendance, and ready to perform any more pleasing duties they might be required; they were however so ugly, that not much self-denial was required in declining their offers. They were dressed in red, with abundance of c.u.mbrous silver ornaments, and dirty leggings; one was additionally ornamented with incipient goitre.

Sugarcane (but stunted), almonds, or peach, oranges, castor-oil, datura, pear, simool, may be found here. Oranges are poor enough, the pear no better. Pinus longifolia, Cupressus pendula, are almost the only trees: the hills being barren, covered with coa.r.s.e gra.s.ses.

_February 23rd_.--Marched to Tumashoo: our march commenced with a steep ascent, but which may be avoided by going through the village, it commenced and continued throughout in the direction of Linge, opposite to which place we found ourselves on our arrival, but on the right bank of the river. The highest part reached, before we descended to this village, was 6,350 feet, or about the height of Linge. The march was nearly six miles, it was easy, the road being throughout excellent and apparently more frequented than any we had hitherto seen. Generally we moved along through open Rhododendron woods, frequently very much stunted, at 6,000 feet. These were intermixed with Quercus tomentosa.

The only spot well wooded, occurred in the ravines, giving exit to small streams.

The first ascent from Leng-Leng, gave the same vegetation, scarcely any trees being visible. Tradescantia clavijera of Churra on rocks, Galium of Churra, Santalacea, Desmodium vestilum, Indigofera canescens, Artemisia major and minor, Oxyspora, Luculia, Conaria, Sambucus in wet places, Lobelia pyramidalis, Spiraea bella and decomposita, Thalictrum majus, Gaultheria fruticosa, Woodwardia, Saurauja hispida, Rhododendron minus, and lemon-gra.s.s, occurred in the order of ascent.

Turning hence along the ridge at the same elevation, Gaultheria arborea, Quercus tomentosa, Rhododendron minus, Hedychium, Holcus elegans, Leucas ciliata. In wet wooded spots Gaultheria duplexa, Bucklandia, Viburnum caerulescens, Polyg. rheoides, Erythrina, Gordonia, Porana, Neuropeltis aromatica, Catharinea, Thibaudia myrtifolia, in open ma.s.sy woods of Rhododendron minus and Quercus tomentosa, Rosa, Cnicus, Pyrus, Gleichenia major, Agrimonia occurred at the same elevations.

From one spot seven villages were visible, on opposite bank of Kooree and between Linge and the Khoomun. A few stunted P. longifolia: one or two of Abies pendula, occurred 100 feet above the highest point of the former: at 6,350 feet, woods of the deciduous Q. robur, were observable.

On the descent at 6,000 feet, Mimosa spinosa, Primula Stuartii, Rhus, Juncus, and others, as before.

We pa.s.sed several villages, some containing twenty or thirty houses, and on halting found ourselves towards the edge of the cultivated tract alluded to, as seen from Linge.

Cattle are here kept in farm yards which are well littered with straw; as in other places they are noosed round the horns: they are fed, while tied up, on straw of a coa.r.s.e and unnutritious description, which they do not seem to fancy much. Pigeons abound, but they are of no use as they cannot be caught; they may help to feed the sparrow-hawks, which are generally found about the villages, and which are very bold.

_February 24th_.--Left at 8 A.M. after the usual trouble about coolies and ponies. We ascended at first about 1,000 feet, pa.s.sing over sward with woods of P. longifolia on either side, crossing the ridge through a hollow, we then commenced a steep descent to the west, until we reached a water-course, the elevation of which is about 200 feet below that of Tumashoo. We then struck off, again to ascend, and continued to do so until we attained 7,800 feet, from which point we descended gradually at first, then abruptly to our _mokan_. The direction was nearly west, the distance 11 miles, the march pretty easy, as the road was good, and the ascent gradual.

Up to the ravine and indeed throughout, nothing new occurred in the vegetation. The hill up which we ascended to again descend, was bare, covered with the usual coa.r.s.e gra.s.ses, Campanula linearis and C. cana, foliis undulatis, Desmodium vestilum, Santalacea.

In the ravine Gordonia, Photinia, Pothos flammea and another species, Maesa, Polygonum rheoides, Ficus of Bhamree, and in the khets Hieraceoid, Gnaphalium aureum, Ajuga, and Veronica occurred.

Up the first ascent and at about 5,500 feet, there was a field of peas, in very luxuriant condition. Our road lay through open dry woods of oaks, either Q. robur or Q. tomentosa, princ.i.p.ally the latter, Rhododendron minus, and Pinus longifolia preponderated in some places, but few trees of Abies pendula occurred.

The march was so far interesting as establis.h.i.+ng nearly the limits of Q.

robur, Q. tomentosa and Q. ilecifolia, which last only commenced, and then in a small state, at 7,300 feet, I should say that Q. tomentosa was to it the next indication, as well as Q. glauca. But it must be understood that only full grown trees are now considered. Mosses were common in the woods on reaching 6 to 7,000 feet, princ.i.p.ally Dicrana, Hypna, Orthotricha, Pendulous lichens frequent; about 7,000 feet, Primula Stuartii in its old situations between 6 to 7,000 feet, Hyperic.u.m of Moflong, 7,000 feet.

We crossed several small water-courses, along these, the dry woods ceased, and the usual humid jungle made its appearance; mosses very numerous.

[Gradient Longloon to Tumashoo: g254.jpg]

The above plants continued throughout, after reaching an alt.i.tude of 6,000 feet, the woods consisting of oaks and Rhododendrons.

The route for the most part wound along the course of the Kooree, but considerably above, we left this track about 3 P.M. on the river turning to the southward. Linge was in sight nearly the whole day; we have been six days (including a halt) performing what might with ease be done in one, for there probably is a road in a direct line between this part and the opposite bank of Kooree. The small-crested finch, and red-beaked and red-legged fare occurred, the former is a noisy bird, inhabiting chiefly woods of Q. robur, the flock were loth to leave one particular spot, so that we obtained five specimens: the finch occurred at 7,800 feet.

Various temples and walls were pa.s.sed en route, and a few villages, with one exception of average small size, were visible in various directions.

_February 25th_.--Our route hence continued for some time at about the same level, when we descended rather rapidly, until we reached a considerable stream, the Oongar, which is crossed by the ordinary wooden bridge; about 200 yards further, it is again crossed by means of a rude bridge, and the remainder of the march is a steep, long, and unmitigated ascent. I reached the tent about 5 P.M.; we pa.s.sed one village situated near the larger bridge, with this exception the country seemed uninhabited: very little cultivation was visible in any direction.

The vegetation was the same, for the most part, the drier faces of the hills being covered, i.e. at about the level of Oongar, with oaks and Rhododendrons, the wet ravines being more densely, and more variously wooded. On sward about Oongar, I noticed a Pedicularis, Artemisia major, Stellaria angustifolia, Berberis pinnata in woods at the same elevation, Plantago, Crawfurdia speciosa, Rubus deltoideus, Alnus of Beesa, Otochilus, Gordonia, Lilium giganteum, Bucklandia.

In one spot near this place mosses were very abundant. On one rock I gathered, Weissioides, Orthodon, Pohlia, Brachymenium bryoides, Weissia, Bartramioides, Didymodon, Daphne papyrifera, and Eurya ac.u.minata, this being about the lowest elevation at which I have seen this plant. In cultivated spots Crucifera, Ervum, and at a temple about a mile from Oongar, Cupressus pendula, and a juniper, Arbor parva, of aspect scraggy, trunco laevi, Cannabis, Cerastium canum in cultivated places. The most common oak was Q. robur. The Jay, larger Brachypodium, which always goes in large flocks, orange-breasted Trochilus and blackbird, were likewise seen, as well as the brown finch, which was seen feeding on Rhododendron minus. On rocky ground I procured a really fine Acanthus, leaves all flesh-coloured, subscandens, spic. maximis lanato-ciliatis, tetrastich.

on this the black cattle appear to be fed, as large bundles were brought in at Oongar. In the woody ravines Panax curcasifolia was common, in these I noticed Cerastium scandens, Elaeagnus, Clematis, Tetrantheroidea habitu, Sedgewickiae! Orthotrichum pumulum! Phlomoides, and in wet spots are Epilobium. The descent shewed nothing remarkable: towards the nullah I noticed Engelhaardtia, tree fern, and Gaultheria deflexa. Obtained a beautiful woodp.e.c.k.e.r at 5,000 feet, with the chesnut-pated lesser tomt.i.t, Yunx, and speckled Brachypodium in woods here; this last has the habit and manners of the crooked bill of Dgin.

The wood between the two bridges was very pretty and open; the trees covered with mosses. The ascent shewed nothing remarkable until 2,000 feet had been surmounted, the plants forming the vegetation below this were Q. robur, Rhododendron minus in abundance, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gaultheria arborea, Saurauja hispida uncommon, Viburnum caerulescens, Conyza nivea, Oxyspora towards the base with paper plant, and Bambusa microphylla. About 5,000 feet, a Daltonia, D. hypnoides, was found in abundance both on rocks and trees.

The change takes place about the situation of a s.p.a.cious open sward; here the jungle is thick, the trees consisting princ.i.p.ally of Q. glauca, which is a n.o.ble tree, with immense lamellated acorns, Pendulous lichens are here common, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Lomaria of Khegumpa! Berberis asiatica! Hemiphragma, Gaultheria nummulareoides, Panax Rhododendrifol.

At 7,500 feet, Rhododendron majus appears, the wood preserving the umbrageous humid aspect, Eurya ac.u.minata, Hydrangea, and about this snow commenced sparingly, but soon became thick. At 8,000 feet, Rhododendron undulata, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris. At 9,000 feet, Rhododendron ferrugineum. The evening now became so misty that it was impossible to discern any thing; in addition, it was snowing: these circ.u.mstances added to fatigue made me press on for the halting place, before coming to which I pa.s.sed through heavy snow.

_Pemee_, where we put up, is a miserable hut, is upwards of 9,000 feet above the sea, situated on an open sward, now densely covered with snow, the accommodations being of course very miserable. Icicles of large size were seen here; and we had nothing but snow for water.

_February 26th_.--Leaving this, we commenced a long and at last very steep ascent, the snow increasing in thickness as we increased our elevation, the march commenced with undulations, but soon pa.s.sed off into an excessively steep ascent, in some parts indeed precipitous. We crossed at twelve and a half P.M. the Pa.s.s of Rodoola, on which are some slabs, with mystic characters, but even here the ascent did not terminate, but continued, although very gradually for perhaps two miles more. Before coming to the summit, a small hut is pa.s.sed. The descent was at first very rapid, then we proceeded along the side of the mountain for a long way, at nearly the same level through woods of Abies densa. On recommencing the descent, swardy patches commenced, surrounded by fir woods, these increased in frequency. At length we reached extensive fir woods, from whence a valley was visible, percolated by a large stream to which we descended over open country with beautiful patches of firs, and at length over extensive swards. I reached the village at 5 P.M., after a march of nearly nine hours, the direction was west, the distance eighteen miles. The road was very bad; in one place our ponies escaped with difficulty, the road having apparently fallen in, and the only footing being afforded by the thickness of the snow: one pony was saved by placing branches under him. The highest portion of the Pa.s.s near the peak was good enough. Snow was heavy on the road, until we descended into the open fir-wooded country, it became scanty at 9,500 feet. The day was gloomy and misty, for a moment, the sun appeared while I stood on the summit, disclosing deep ravines, one formed by the valley in which we now are, surrounded in every direction by equally high land, as that on which I stood, and certainly not under 12,000 feet. Nothing visible but dense forests of firs. The highest point crossed was 12,035 feet, estimating the summit to be 300 feet above the Pa.s.s itself, which is so narrow as scarcely to admit of the pa.s.sage of a loaded mule.

In the open spot around the hut, Tofieldioid, which continues as high as 10,500 feet, Cerastium inflatum, l.a.b.i.ata species, Conecis, which, as on Dhonglaila, continues up to 12,000 feet, Dipsacus, Prunella, Gaultheria nummularioides, Pteris aquilina, stunted, Juncus niveus, Gnaphalium. No firs were visible, but the trees were so covered with snow, that I was not able to distinguish them.

At 9,800 feet, along an open ridge, Spiraea belloides, Buddlaea, B.

purpurasae, Khasyanae affinis, Andropogones, Mespilus microphyllus, Hydrangea, Taxus, Swertia, Gnaphalium, Thibaudia orbicularis commences, continuing up to 10,500 feet, Brachymenium bryoides, Bambusa very common, forming frequently the chief bulk of the forest, even up to 10,500 feet, Acer arbuscula foliis palmatum lobatis!! Pyrus arbor magna fol. obovat.

serratis subtus albus, fructibus cerasi magnitudinum.

At 10,000 feet, Composita penduliflora! Hemiphragma, Lobelioides, Brachymenium bryoides, Rhododendron minus ferrugineum, arboreum vel arbuscula, Rhododendron obovatum, foliis subtus albus, Rhododendron hispidum, Rosa microphylla, Bambusa, Spiraea of former ascent.

At 10,200 feet, Polygonum, Rheum, Hydrangea! Spiraea belloides, Hydrangea, Betuloides.

At 10,500 feet, Abies densa, but sparingly, Rhododendron elliptic.u.m, foliis basi cordatis, Hyperic.u.m, Rhododendron microphyllum.

At 11,000 feet, no firs: nothing almost but Rhododendrons, R. elliptic.u.m, and R. elliptic.u.m foliis basi cordatis.

At 11,500 feet, Vaccinium, foliis ovatis spinuloso-dentatis, atratus fructex pygmaeus repens.

Towards the Pa.s.s, the face of the mountain became more and more rugged, the vegetation more scanty, consisting of nothing but Rhododendrons.

At 12,000 feet, Eriogonum minus, Polygonum, Rheum, Rhodod. microphyllum and elliptic.u.m foliis basi cordatis.

About the Pa.s.s, Trichostomum, _Xyris_, Abies densa, one small plant, Rosa, Eriogonum minus, Rhododendron microphyllum and elliptic.u.m foliis basi cordatis.

On the more level ridge between this Pa.s.s and the summit, Rhododendrons still were most frequent, Triticoides umbellifera of Royle, Eriogonum majus, woods of Abies densa occurred a little below the path, Gentiana maxima, 4-pedalis folliculis bipollicaribus, Lilium uniflorum, Potentilla common between this and 9,000 feet, Rosa microphyllum, Juniperus, Epilobium minus of Dhonglaila, Rheum. Large black crow, Pedicularis, Saxifraga, Umbellifera alia, Compositae, Spiraea.

At the summit, no woody vegetation was visible, except Rhododendrons; the firs being confined below.

The descent at first through Rhododendron, then for a long time entirely through vast woods of Abies densa, most of the larger trees of this are apparently blasted, it has a tabular form, and very sombre appearance, and can be recognized even at great distances by its black columnar palm- like appearance.