In The Hands Of A Chef Part 13

HALIBUT.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil Four 6-ounce halibut fillets, skin removed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 s.h.i.+take mushrooms, stems removed pound celery root, peeled and cut into -inch-thick matchsticks 1 ounce fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 1 1/16-inch-thick matchsticks 4 large scallions, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths 28 sugar snap peas, strings removed (about 1 cup) 20 fresh cilantro leaves 20 fresh mint leaves 20 fresh basil leaves Four -inch-thick lemon slices cut in half 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1. To make the broth, heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and season with salt and pepper. Saute the vegetables until they begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the lemongra.s.s, hot pepper flakes, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, bay leaves, white wine, and fish stock. Lower the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Strain and set aside. To make the broth, heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and season with salt and pepper. Saute the vegetables until they begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the lemongra.s.s, hot pepper flakes, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, bay leaves, white wine, and fish stock. Lower the heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Strain and set aside.

2. To sear the halibut, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the fillets for about 3 minutes on each side-they should be a light golden color, but not even close to cooked through. Transfer to a plate. To sear the halibut, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Sear the fillets for about 3 minutes on each side-they should be a light golden color, but not even close to cooked through. Transfer to a plate.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the s.h.i.+take mushrooms and sear on one side. Flip and add the celery root, ginger, and scallions. Cook for 5 minutes, until the celery root is just tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add the broth and sugar snap peas and return the fish to the pan. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the halibut is medium-rare. The texture of cooked halibut resembles that of salmon: When medium-rare, the center of the fillet will still be moist and slightly translucent, unlike the opaque outer flesh. Also like salmon, if cooked all the way through, it dries out. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the s.h.i.+take mushrooms and sear on one side. Flip and add the celery root, ginger, and scallions. Cook for 5 minutes, until the celery root is just tender. Season with salt and pepper. Add the broth and sugar snap peas and return the fish to the pan. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the halibut is medium-rare. The texture of cooked halibut resembles that of salmon: When medium-rare, the center of the fillet will still be moist and slightly translucent, unlike the opaque outer flesh. Also like salmon, if cooked all the way through, it dries out.

4. Add the herbs and lemon slices and swirl in the b.u.t.ter. Divide the fish among four warmed bowls, then pour the broth and other ingredients evenly over each portion. Serve immediately. Add the herbs and lemon slices and swirl in the b.u.t.ter. Divide the fish among four warmed bowls, then pour the broth and other ingredients evenly over each portion. Serve immediately.

OCTOPUS NOTESLike squid, octopus is quite perishable, so it is almost always cleaned and frozen at sea. Freezing has no ill effect on texture or flavor, so don't be concerned about buying it frozen. In the unlikely event that you do stumble across a fresh octopus (or even a thawed, previously frozen one), be sure to sniff it. It should smell of nothing but the sea, if it has any aroma at all. Your fishmonger will clean it if necessary. Use octopus within a day of purchasing or thawing. Octopus shrinks by about half during cooking, so figure on pound raw octopus per person for an entree portion, half of that for an appetizer.Grilled octopus is one of our summer favorites-especially the tentacles. A few years ago during a trip to Greece, my husband ordered octopus, typically grilled over a very hot fire of olive wood, in every restaurant we tried for two weeks. After a while, our meals seemed incomplete unless they included at least one oval platter with its familiar g-cleft of tentacle in olive oil with rosemary and lemon.To tenderize octopus for grilling or sauteing, put it in a pot, cover with cold water, and season with salt, the juice of 1 lemon, and several bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Depending on the size, octopi vary considerably in the length of time they require to become tender. For one of less than 2 pounds (or several smaller octopi totaling the same weight), start checking after 15 minutes of boiling. For an octopus of 2 pounds or larger, start checking after 30 minutes. Octopus is done when the point of a thin sharp knife easily penetrates the mantle, the area where the head joins the tentacles.What you do next depends on the size of your octopus. If it's a large one, leave the tentacles whole and cut the head into strips several inches wide. If the tentacles are much smaller (say, narrower than your fingers), cut the octopus into pieces that can be threaded onto skewers. If you're using small octopi, ones the size of a large man's hand, leave them whole. Rub the boiled octopus with finely chopped fresh rosemary, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush with extra virgin olive oil.When the grill is hot, lay the octopus crosswise across the grill bars. Watch closely. Since the octopus is already cooked, you really only need to grill it long enough to give it a good sear and heat it through, a few minutes at the longest, for large ones, on each side. If you cook it any longer, the meat dries out. Serve with lemon wedges.

[image]

Goat Cheese Terrine with Dried Figs and Hazelnuts (page 15) and Parchment Bread (page 21) [image]

Fresh Tomato Soup with Seared Eggplant Sandwiches (page 42) [image]

Warm Spring Vegetable Salad with Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Radicchio (page 90) and Walnut Breadsticks (page 19) [image]

Tarte Flambee with Caramelized Onions, Smoked Bacon, and Creamy Cheese (page 132) [image]

Penne with Shrimp, Artichokes, and Feta (page 156) [image]

Nidimi-"Little Nests" Stuffed with Prosciutto, Fontina, and Spinach (page 162) [image]

Chilled Lobster with Potato-Blood Orange Salad and Lime (page 180) [image]

Monkfish and Clam Bourride with Aioli and Green Olive Tapenade (page 218) [image]

Roast Rack of Lamb with Romaine Salad and Anchovy Dressing (page 284) [image]

Fried Rabbit in Hazelnut Crumbs with Peaches (page 289) [image]

Squash Blossoms Stuffed with Herbed Cheese in Fritter Batter (page 308) [image]

Fresh and Salt Cod Wrapped in Pancetta with Wilted Greens (page 314) [image]

Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) [image]

Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream (page 334) and Ginger Shortbread (page 353) [image]

Hot Chocolate Creams from Provence (page 340) [image]

Lemon-Almond b.u.t.ter Cake (page 350) Braised Octopus with Paprika and Linguine If you've ever wondered whether octopus is as mouthwateringly good as its fans claim, here's your chance to find out. This is a straightforward recipe that takes advantage of the delicious affinity between octopus's sweet flavor and equally sweet or smoky pepper. Octopus and Spanish paprika (sweet) or Aleppo pepper (smoky) were made for each other. Don't concern yourself with octopus's reputation for rubberiness. Braising automatically makes it tender. The texture recalls that of other mildly resistant seafood like lobster tails or monkfish, although it really is its own creature. whether octopus is as mouthwateringly good as its fans claim, here's your chance to find out. This is a straightforward recipe that takes advantage of the delicious affinity between octopus's sweet flavor and equally sweet or smoky pepper. Octopus and Spanish paprika (sweet) or Aleppo pepper (smoky) were made for each other. Don't concern yourself with octopus's reputation for rubberiness. Braising automatically makes it tender. The texture recalls that of other mildly resistant seafood like lobster tails or monkfish, although it really is its own creature.

If you want to grill or saute octopus, you need to boil it first (see Octopus Notes). It's definitely worth the effort. Nothing-absolutely nothing-beats it when it comes time to present the dish to the table.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 3 medium onions, 2 chopped into -inch dice, 1 thinly sliced 3 celery stalks, chopped into -inch dice 9 garlic cloves, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups dry red wine cup ouzo (subst.i.tute Pernod if ouzo is unavailable) 1 cup canned plum tomatoes, with their juice 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Turkish pepper, such as Aleppo 3 pounds fresh or frozen (thawed) whole small octopus, rinsed 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest teaspoon anise seeds cup paprika, preferably Spanish pound dried linguine cup flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges 1. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braising pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onions, celery, and two-thirds of the chopped garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until the vegetables start to brown, about 7 minutes. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braising pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped onions, celery, and two-thirds of the chopped garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook until the vegetables start to brown, about 7 minutes.

2. Add the wine, ouzo, plum tomatoes and their juice, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons of the oregano, and 1 tablespoon of the Turkish pepper. Add the octopus, season with salt and pepper, and enough water to come halfway up the octopus. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover with foil, pressing it down so it just touches the octopus, then cover with a lid. Braise until tender but not mushy, about 1 hour. The point of a knife should easily penetrate the mantle, the area where the head joins the body. The skin will also start breaking apart and sliding off the body. Remove the octopus from the pot and set aside. Add the wine, ouzo, plum tomatoes and their juice, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons of the oregano, and 1 tablespoon of the Turkish pepper. Add the octopus, season with salt and pepper, and enough water to come halfway up the octopus. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover with foil, pressing it down so it just touches the octopus, then cover with a lid. Braise until tender but not mushy, about 1 hour. The point of a knife should easily penetrate the mantle, the area where the head joins the body. The skin will also start breaking apart and sliding off the body. Remove the octopus from the pot and set aside.

3. Strain the braising liquid, discarding the solids. Return the strained liquid to the pot and boil until it is reduced to 1 cup. Remove from the heat. Strain the braising liquid, discarding the solids. Return the strained liquid to the pot and boil until it is reduced to 1 cup. Remove from the heat.

4. Meanwhile, cut the head off the octopus, then cut the head in half. Peel away the gelatinous lining inside the head and discard. Divide the individual tentacles. Toss the octopus pieces in a bowl with the lemon zest, anise seeds, 1 tablespoon of the paprika, and the remaining 1 teaspoon oregano. Cover and set aside. Meanwhile, cut the head off the octopus, then cut the head in half. Peel away the gelatinous lining inside the head and discard. Divide the individual tentacles. Toss the octopus pieces in a bowl with the lemon zest, anise seeds, 1 tablespoon of the paprika, and the remaining 1 teaspoon oregano. Cover and set aside.

5. Heat the remaining cup olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced onion and the remaining garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they start to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the octopus and cook for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the remaining 1 teaspoon Turkish pepper and 7 tablespoons paprika, and cook until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Heat the remaining cup olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the sliced onion and the remaining garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they start to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the octopus and cook for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the remaining 1 teaspoon Turkish pepper and 7 tablespoons paprika, and cook until aromatic, about 3 minutes.

6. Add the reduced braising liquid and heat through. If the liquid seems too thin to serve as a sauce for pasta, continue cooking until it thickens slightly. Keep warm. Add the reduced braising liquid and heat through. If the liquid seems too thin to serve as a sauce for pasta, continue cooking until it thickens slightly. Keep warm.

7. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the linguine and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and season with salt. Add the linguine and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes.

8. Drain the pasta, add to the sauce, and toss with the parsley. Divide into warm bowls. Garnish each serving with a lemon wedge. Drain the pasta, add to the sauce, and toss with the parsley. Divide into warm bowls. Garnish each serving with a lemon wedge.

Clam and Mussel Stew with Italian Ham, Walnuts, and Leeks Having grown up in Providence's heavily Portuguese neighborhood of Fox Point, I've always loved the combination of clams and pork. This hearty stew of potatoes, leeks, and sh.e.l.lfish takes advantage of the way clams and mussels flavor their steaming liquid. The Italian alternative is to add cured pork, in the form of pancetta or one of the dried cured specialty meats. The addition of capocollo, similar to prosciutto but with a stronger, more rustic flavor, at the end of the cooking adds an unexpected depth. This recipe is quite simple once you a.s.semble the ingredients; the entire dish takes less than half an hour to cook. As a luxurious alternative to the garlic toast in the bottom of the bowl, try serving it over Lemon Mashed Potatoes (page 107). heavily Portuguese neighborhood of Fox Point, I've always loved the combination of clams and pork. This hearty stew of potatoes, leeks, and sh.e.l.lfish takes advantage of the way clams and mussels flavor their steaming liquid. The Italian alternative is to add cured pork, in the form of pancetta or one of the dried cured specialty meats. The addition of capocollo, similar to prosciutto but with a stronger, more rustic flavor, at the end of the cooking adds an unexpected depth. This recipe is quite simple once you a.s.semble the ingredients; the entire dish takes less than half an hour to cook. As a luxurious alternative to the garlic toast in the bottom of the bowl, try serving it over Lemon Mashed Potatoes (page 107).

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced on the diagonal and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 2 garlic cloves, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 16 sun-dried tomatoes (dry, not in oil), cut in half lengthwise and softened in fish stock (preferably) or water 24 littleneck clams, scrubbed cup dry white wine 3 cups Fish Stock (page 33) or 1 cups clam juice plus 1 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 32 mussels, scrubbed and debearded pound capocollo, cut into -inch-wide 2-inchlong strips cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 4 thick slices French bread, toasted and rubbed with a garlic clove 2 tablespoons chopped walnuts 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, clams, and wine. Cover and cook until the clams just start to open, about 4 minutes. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, clams, and wine. Cover and cook until the clams just start to open, about 4 minutes.

2. Add the fish stock and mussels. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the mussels open, about 3 minutes. Add the capocollo and parsley and stir. Add the fish stock and mussels. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook until the mussels open, about 3 minutes. Add the capocollo and parsley and stir.

3. Put a slice of toast in each of four warmed bowls. Ladle the sh.e.l.lfish stew over the toast, sprinkle with the walnuts and lemon zest, and serve. Put a slice of toast in each of four warmed bowls. Ladle the sh.e.l.lfish stew over the toast, sprinkle with the walnuts and lemon zest, and serve.

Monkfish and Clam Bourride with Aioli and Green Olive Tapenade Some dishes so excite your senses that even reading about them seems to set off an avalanche of gustatory antic.i.p.ation. The sense of shock and delight upon first encountering a bourride as a young cook reading about Provencal cuisine was one of those experiences for me. A garlicky fish soup thickened with garlic senses that even reading about them seems to set off an avalanche of gustatory antic.i.p.ation. The sense of shock and delight upon first encountering a bourride as a young cook reading about Provencal cuisine was one of those experiences for me. A garlicky fish soup thickened with garlic mayonnaise mayonnaise-Is that allowed? I almost swooned. At the time I hadn't yet been to Provence and didn't know just how rich a true bourride could be. Some recipes called for thickening the broth with egg yolks (just in case it's already not rich enough) then adding the mayonnaise. In any event, this has remained one of my all-time favorite seafood dishes, right up there with soupe de poisson, soupe de poisson, although more rustic-and less work. although more rustic-and less work.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

6 small Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed and quartered Kosher salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (plus 2 tablespoons if using cherry tomatoes) Eight 2-ounce pieces monkfish fillet, trimmed of membrane Freshly ground black pepper recipe Slow-Braised Tomatoes (page 118), in their oil, or 16 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 fennel bulb, stalks and tough outer layers removed, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and thinly sliced 4 shallots, thinly sliced 2 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced inch thick, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 4 garlic cloves, 3 thinly sliced, 1 only peeled 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest cup dry white wine 24 littleneck clams (I prefer Wellfleet because I live nearby, but you can use any high-quality fresh littlenecks) 4 thick slices rustic bread, toasted 16 basil leaves, 8 sliced into thin strips, 8 left whole for garnish 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 cup Aioli (page 13) 1 recipe Green Olive Tapenade (page 25) DO AHEAD: Make the tapenade and the braised tomatoes, if using. (Both items have myriad uses and last for some time, so I often double the quant.i.ties.) Make the aioli several hours in advance and keep refrigerated until needed. Make the tapenade and the braised tomatoes, if using. (Both items have myriad uses and last for some time, so I often double the quant.i.ties.) Make the aioli several hours in advance and keep refrigerated until needed.

1. Put the potatoes in a pot large enough to hold them comfortably, cover with cold water, and season with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain and let cool. Put the potatoes in a pot large enough to hold them comfortably, cover with cold water, and season with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Drain and let cool.

2. In a large deep pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the monkfish with salt and pepper and sear lightly on each side, until lightly golden. Do not cook through. Remove the monkfish from the pan and set aside. In a large deep pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the monkfish with salt and pepper and sear lightly on each side, until lightly golden. Do not cook through. Remove the monkfish from the pan and set aside.

3. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil from the slow-braised tomatoes (or 2 tablespoons olive oil if using cherry tomatoes) to the pan. Add the fennel, shallots, and leeks and season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until the vegetables are tender and the edges begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until it releases its perfume, 2 to 3 minutes. Be careful not to let the garlic burn. Add the pepper flakes, lemon zest, the tomatoes, white wine, and clams. Cover and let the clams steam open. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil from the slow-braised tomatoes (or 2 tablespoons olive oil if using cherry tomatoes) to the pan. Add the fennel, shallots, and leeks and season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until the vegetables are tender and the edges begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook just until it releases its perfume, 2 to 3 minutes. Be careful not to let the garlic burn. Add the pepper flakes, lemon zest, the tomatoes, white wine, and clams. Cover and let the clams steam open.

4. Meanwhile, rub the toast slices with the garlic clove and brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Meanwhile, rub the toast slices with the garlic clove and brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

5. Check the clams after 5 minutes. If they haven't opened, cover and continue to steam. All of them should have opened after 8 to 10 minutes; discard any that haven't opened by then. Transfer the clams to a bowl large enough to hold the bourride when finished. Cover and keep warm. Check the clams after 5 minutes. If they haven't opened, cover and continue to steam. All of them should have opened after 8 to 10 minutes; discard any that haven't opened by then. Transfer the clams to a bowl large enough to hold the bourride when finished. Cover and keep warm.

6. Add the monkfish and potatoes to the pan and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes. The monkfish will finish cooking while the potatoes warm. Give everything a stir and taste for seasoning. Add the basil strips and parsley, then pour over the clams. Add the monkfish and potatoes to the pan and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes. The monkfish will finish cooking while the potatoes warm. Give everything a stir and taste for seasoning. Add the basil strips and parsley, then pour over the clams.

7. Divide the stew evenly among four warmed pasta bowls. Add a garlic toast to each, top with a spoonful each of aioli and tapenade, and garnish with the basil leaves. Serve immediately, offering extra aioli and tapenade on the side. Divide the stew evenly among four warmed pasta bowls. Add a garlic toast to each, top with a spoonful each of aioli and tapenade, and garnish with the basil leaves. Serve immediately, offering extra aioli and tapenade on the side.

WHY ISN'T THAT CLAM OPENING?I've been served cooked seafood dishes with unopened clams or mussels more times than I care to remember. Clams and mussels, like lobsters, are usually cooked alive. But, unlike with lobsters, there's no convenient way of telling if a clam has given up the ghost before it hits the pan. After cooking, however, a closed sh.e.l.l is a dead giveaway. Sh.e.l.lfish deteriorates incredibly rapidly after death. Never open-let alone eat-any clams or mussels that don't open during cooking. Discard them immediately.

Lobster, Littleneck Clam, and Andouille Sausage Stew The Iberian tradition of thickening seafood soups with toasted noodles inspired this dish. Catalan variations call for seafood soups with toasted noodles inspired this dish. Catalan variations call for fideus fideus, a dried thin short noodle, to be toasted in oil in a deep pan on top of the stove. The cook adds stock, various fish, sh.e.l.lfish, and sausage; the noodles soak up the stock, transforming the dish into something closer to stew than soup. If you have 3 cups of homemade Lobster Stock (page 34) sitting around, you can use it here, but the recipe includes instructions for a quick lobster stock (30 minutes), a technique worth learning and taking almost no time at all.

Reheated seafood stew loses much of its original texture. The noodles overcook and become soft; the clams and lobster can turn rubbery. If you won't be serving all the stew the first night, prepare the recipe as indicated, but stop just short of adding the capellini. Figure out how much stew you want to eat today, and how much tomorrow. Divide the mixture of onions, peppers, and tomatoes in the ca.s.serole and set tomorrow's aside. Only a.s.semble as much of the dish as you intend to serve, reducing the proportion of the other ingredients accordingly. Refrigerate tomorrow's onion, tomato, and pepper mixture, stock, lobster, clams, and basil and parsley. Reheat the stock the next day, and finish the stew by repeating the final steps of the recipe.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

LOBSTER AND STOCK.

Kosher salt Two 1-pound lobsters 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil small white onion, thinly sliced celery stalk, thinly sliced 1 cup dry white wine teaspoon fennel seeds 1 strip orange zest ( inch wide and 3 inches long) 2 bay leaves Pinch of saffron (optional)

pound capellini, broken in half 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 red pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into -inch-wide strips Freshly ground black pepper 4 garlic cloves, chopped 6 ripe plum tomatoes, each cut into 8 chunks 12 littleneck clams, scrubbed Juice of 1 orange 1 cup cooked chickpeas (see page 230), or rinsed canned chickpeas pound andouille sausage, cut into -inch-thick slices cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh basil 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes (optional) DO AHEAD: All of the major features of the stew-cooking the lobster, making the lobster stock, toasting the pasta-can be done a day ahead, leaving only the cooking of the pasta and a.s.sembling the stew. All of the major features of the stew-cooking the lobster, making the lobster stock, toasting the pasta-can be done a day ahead, leaving only the cooking of the pasta and a.s.sembling the stew.

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water. Add the lobsters, bring the water back to a boil, and cook for 7 minutes. Drain and cool the lobsters. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water. Add the lobsters, bring the water back to a boil, and cook for 7 minutes. Drain and cool the lobsters.

2. Separate the tails, claws, and knuckles from the bodies of the lobsters. Set the bodies aside for making the stock. Remove the lobster tails from the sh.e.l.ls, cut the tails in half lengthwise, and remove the vein-like digestive tracts. Cover and refrigerate the lobster meat. Separate the tails, claws, and knuckles from the bodies of the lobsters. Set the bodies aside for making the stock. Remove the lobster tails from the sh.e.l.ls, cut the tails in half lengthwise, and remove the vein-like digestive tracts. Cover and refrigerate the lobster meat.

3. To make the stock, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Break each lobster body into 3 or 4 pieces, add to the oil, and sear all over, turning frequently. Add the sliced half onion and celery and sear as well. Add the white wine and enough water to just cover the sh.e.l.ls. Add the fennel seeds, orange zest, and bay leaves and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock and discard the solids. (You should end up with 3 cups of liquid.) Add the optional pinch of saffron. To make the stock, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Break each lobster body into 3 or 4 pieces, add to the oil, and sear all over, turning frequently. Add the sliced half onion and celery and sear as well. Add the white wine and enough water to just cover the sh.e.l.ls. Add the fennel seeds, orange zest, and bay leaves and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock and discard the solids. (You should end up with 3 cups of liquid.) Add the optional pinch of saffron.

4. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Toss the capellini with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then spread it evenly over a sheet pan. Bake until the pasta is golden and toasted, about 20 minutes. Toss the pasta several times during baking to ensure it toasts evenly. Set aside. Toss the capellini with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then spread it evenly over a sheet pan. Bake until the pasta is golden and toasted, about 20 minutes. Toss the pasta several times during baking to ensure it toasts evenly. Set aside.

6. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braising pan over medium heat. Add the onion and red pepper, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook an additional 2 minutes. Add the lobster broth, littlenecks, and orange juice and cook until the clams just begin to open, about 10 minutes. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braising pan over medium heat. Add the onion and red pepper, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and tomatoes and cook an additional 2 minutes. Add the lobster broth, littlenecks, and orange juice and cook until the clams just begin to open, about 10 minutes.

7. Add the chickpeas, andouille, and pasta. After 5 minutes, the pasta should be cooked and all the clams should have opened. Remove and discard any unopened clams. Add the lobster, parsley, and basil, and just heat through. Add the chickpeas, andouille, and pasta. After 5 minutes, the pasta should be cooked and all the clams should have opened. Remove and discard any unopened clams. Add the lobster, parsley, and basil, and just heat through.

8. Fill four warm bowls with the stew, making sure that each portion contains lobster, clams, and sausage. Serve immediately, accompanied by the optional red pepper flakes. Fill four warm bowls with the stew, making sure that each portion contains lobster, clams, and sausage. Serve immediately, accompanied by the optional red pepper flakes.

Poultry Poultry is like a huge family with two different branches. The members of one branch-chicken-are respectable, reliable ... and boring. The members of the second branch are like a band of crazy interlopers whom no one invited to the reunion-duck, quail, and geese. They're wild, they're messy, and they never clean up after themselves. The first group is bland, and the challenge is to figure out how to put some pizzazz back into their character. The quail-duck-and-geese branch has the opposite problem: they come packed with flavor, but how do you cook them, especially without having to hire a cleaning crew to come in after you're finished? family with two different branches. The members of one branch-chicken-are respectable, reliable ... and boring. The members of the second branch are like a band of crazy interlopers whom no one invited to the reunion-duck, quail, and geese. They're wild, they're messy, and they never clean up after themselves. The first group is bland, and the challenge is to figure out how to put some pizzazz back into their character. The quail-duck-and-geese branch has the opposite problem: they come packed with flavor, but how do you cook them, especially without having to hire a cleaning crew to come in after you're finished?

This chapter tells you how to deal with both branches of the family.

You don't have to be a culinary romantic to deduce that chickens used to be better. A simple comparison of a roasted organic, free-range chicken with its factory-bred counterpart demonstrates the depth of decline. The meaty flavor of the former tastes as distinctly and immediately of itself as duck or goose; the latter tastes ..., no, feels pleasant enough, but without much flavor. pleasant enough, but without much flavor.

The simplest way to improve the taste of the poultry you cook then is to buy organic, free-range chickens. Their flavor more than compensates for their premium price, especially in dishes that call for chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Finding organic chicken pieces can be a trial, however, and I often resort to ordinary legs and thighs; everything else being equal, dark meat always offers deeper flavor than light.

The second strategy is to bring strong flavors to bear on chicken, by seasoning it with spicy rubs or marinades, or by braising, grilling, or smoking the meat. With chicken, you want as many of the external flavors as possible to penetrate the meat. All of these strategies, alone or in combination, are put to good use in the following pages.

Duck, quail, and geese are the tastiest partic.i.p.ants in any discussion about poultry, and the most neglected by home cooks. There's really no excuse for this with quail; it's the bird I recommend for red-meat lovers. Easily grilled or sauteed, quail involves none of the mess people a.s.sociate with other dark-meat fowl and has great flavor. Duck and geese, on the other hand, require strategic know-how. The problem with traditional recipes is that they tend to smoke up your kitchen with burning fat. This chapter offers you a foolproof method for producing a duck with crisp skin and moist, tender meat cooked completely on top of the stove. (Fans of duck and goose will find additional recipes for these birds in "A Mile in a Chef's Shoes, " page 297.) If you've prepared duck in the past and decided it was too much of a ha.s.sle, then you may find this recipe a relief.

As always, an instant-read digital thermometer takes some of the guesswork out of telling whether a bird is properly cooked; also, nonstick cooking racks and roasting pans are indispensable when it comes to roasting poultry. Their very minor extra cost will seem trivial during cleanup after roasting a chicken or turkey, let alone a goose.

Sauteed Boneless Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with Brown Bay b.u.t.ter For years, I automatically added bay leaves to soups and stocks without much consideration of their effect on flavor. Laura Brennan, my sous-chef at Michela's, and bay leaves to soups and stocks without much consideration of their effect on flavor. Laura Brennan, my sous-chef at Michela's, and I I began experimenting with steeping bay leaves in a variety of liquids-melted b.u.t.ter, white wine for poaching fish, extra virgin olive oil for grilling lamb and dressing salads, even the sweet wine Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise used to poach pears. We made a simple discovery: when used in large quant.i.ties, bay leaves produce an extraordinary combination of b.u.t.terscotch and eucalyptus that you'd never suspect from their subtler application. Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, the culinary equivalent of a blank sheet of paper, take well to a bay-infused b.u.t.ter sauce. This is an extremely easy dish to prepare, with a flavor far out of proportion to the effort involved. began experimenting with steeping bay leaves in a variety of liquids-melted b.u.t.ter, white wine for poaching fish, extra virgin olive oil for grilling lamb and dressing salads, even the sweet wine Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise used to poach pears. We made a simple discovery: when used in large quant.i.ties, bay leaves produce an extraordinary combination of b.u.t.terscotch and eucalyptus that you'd never suspect from their subtler application. Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, the culinary equivalent of a blank sheet of paper, take well to a bay-infused b.u.t.ter sauce. This is an extremely easy dish to prepare, with a flavor far out of proportion to the effort involved.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

CHICKEN.

4 boned chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s (approximately pound each), skin on, split in half to make 8 half-breast cutlets 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh savory 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest 6 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper SAUCE.

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon high-quality sherry vinegar 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed (optional) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Marinate the chicken for at least 4 hours; longer won't hurt. Marinate the chicken for at least 4 hours; longer won't hurt.

1. Toss the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s in a large bowl with the shallots, savory, thyme, lemon zest, and 4 tablespoons vegetable oil. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

2. Since the cutlets will cook so quickly, it's a good idea to make the sauce first. Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan and let it cook until there's only cup left.

3. While the stock is reducing, melt the b.u.t.ter with the bay leaves in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Cook until the b.u.t.ter just turns brown, 4 to 5 minutes; take care that it doesn't burn. Remove from the heat and let steep for 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaves.

4. Combine the bay b.u.t.ter and reduced stock in a blender and blend until they're completely mixed. Transfer to a small saucepan and add the vinegar and capers and season with salt and pepper. Keep the sauce warm.

5. Preheat the oven to 200F.

6. Remove the chicken cutlets from the marinade; do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade. Set the bowl aside. Sprinkle the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large saute pan (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat. If you have the good fortune to have two large saute pans, heat a second one with 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. If you're using only one pan, you'll have to cook the cutlets in two batches. When the oil is hot, add 4 cutlets to each pan, skin side down, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the cutlets and cook for an additional 3 minutes, or until cooked through. If some of the cutlets are smaller or thinner and cook faster, remove them from the pan and put them on a platter in the oven. If you're relying on a digital thermometer, it should read 160F when inserted into the center of the meat when it's done. Remove the chicken, sc.r.a.pe any leftover shallots out of the marinade bowl into the pan, and cook until caramelized. Sprinkle over the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s.

7. Serve immediately, with the warm bay b.u.t.ter.

Roasted Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s Stuffed with Herbed Ricotta I'm always searching for ways to jazz up chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. One summer, after I'd finished making a batch of chicken and ricotta ravioli, it occurred to me that there had to be an easier way of bringing chicken and herbed ricotta together. Why not just stuff chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with a ricotta filling and dispense with the pasta altogether? Roasting split b.r.e.a.s.t.s on the bone proved to be the simplest way of preparing this dish. The stuffing goes under the skin. Leaving the bones in helps keep the skin anch.o.r.ed in place, and the meat stays juicier. to jazz up chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. One summer, after I'd finished making a batch of chicken and ricotta ravioli, it occurred to me that there had to be an easier way of bringing chicken and herbed ricotta together. Why not just stuff chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with a ricotta filling and dispense with the pasta altogether? Roasting split b.r.e.a.s.t.s on the bone proved to be the simplest way of preparing this dish. The stuffing goes under the skin. Leaving the bones in helps keep the skin anch.o.r.ed in place, and the meat stays juicier.

If you have access to different brands of fresh ricotta, use the firmest you can find; the less moisture in the filling, the better it will stay in the chicken. Because the cheese stuffing comes into contact with the raw chicken, this dish should never be prepared ahead. Stuff the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, coat them with the marinade, and roast them right away.

Cooked b.r.e.a.s.t.s will keep for a couple of days in the refrigerator. Cut the cold chicken off the bone and slice crosswise into medallions. Sprinkle the medallions with any leftover crumbled ricotta stuffing and drizzle with a squeeze of fresh lemon and extra virgin olive oil.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

STUFFING.

1 cup ricotta cup freshly grated Parmesan 2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 large bone-in chicken half-b.r.e.a.s.t.s (approximately 10 ounces each) MARINADE.

2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons minced lemon zest cup vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 lemon, cut into 4 wedges 1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Combine all of the stuffing ingredients, mixing well. Combine all of the stuffing ingredients, mixing well.

3. Gently insert your fingers into the end of one of the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to make an opening between the skin and the breast meat, keeping as much of the edges of the skin attached to the meat as possible. Spoon one-quarter of the herbed ricotta into the opening. Gently squeeze and knead the mixture evenly over the breast between the meat and skin. Repeat with the remaining b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Gently insert your fingers into the end of one of the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to make an opening between the skin and the breast meat, keeping as much of the edges of the skin attached to the meat as possible. Spoon one-quarter of the herbed ricotta into the opening. Gently squeeze and knead the mixture evenly over the breast between the meat and skin. Repeat with the remaining b.r.e.a.s.t.s.

4. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl. Carefully toss the stuffed b.r.e.a.s.t.s in the marinade to coat on all sides. Sprinkle each coated breast with salt and pepper and set skin side up on a rack in a roasting pan. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a large bowl. Carefully toss the stuffed b.r.e.a.s.t.s in the marinade to coat on all sides. Sprinkle each coated breast with salt and pepper and set skin side up on a rack in a roasting pan.

5. Roast the chicken for Roast the chicken for 25 to 35 25 to 35 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the b.r.e.a.s.t.s. The internal temperature of the breast should read 155F. It's all right if some of the cheese mixture leaks out from under the skin as the chicken roasts. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving. The temperature will come up another 5 degrees or so as the b.r.e.a.s.t.s repose. minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the b.r.e.a.s.t.s. The internal temperature of the breast should read 155F. It's all right if some of the cheese mixture leaks out from under the skin as the chicken roasts. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving. The temperature will come up another 5 degrees or so as the b.r.e.a.s.t.s repose.

6. If you prefer crispier skin, run the chicken under the broiler for a minute or two before serving. Serve with the lemon wedges. If you prefer crispier skin, run the chicken under the broiler for a minute or two before serving. Serve with the lemon wedges.

Roasted Rock Cornish Game Hens with North African Flavors If I don't have access to free-range chickens, my second choice is Rock Cornish game hens. One-pound birds, if you can find them, make ideal generous single portions, but sometimes the selection runs between 1 and 2 pounds. Instead of serving each person an individual bird, I simply carve the larger birds into b.r.e.a.s.t.s and leg-thigh pieces and serve them family-style on a platter. to free-range chickens, my second choice is Rock Cornish game hens. One-pound birds, if you can find them, make ideal generous single portions, but sometimes the selection runs between 1 and 2 pounds. Instead of serving each person an individual bird, I simply carve the larger birds into b.r.e.a.s.t.s and leg-thigh pieces and serve them family-style on a platter.

We roast and grill game hens year-round at my house, but by December we begin looking for alternatives to the usual lemon-garlic-thyme-rosemary-extra-virgin-olive-oil we've been rubbing into them. The saffron, cinnamon, c.u.min, and ginger in this recipe s.h.i.+ft the flavor into a Moroccan key, a welcome change in the cold-weather months. Onions, chickpeas, and tomatoes roast beneath the hens, catch their drippings, and turn into a wonderfully rich mash. Be careful not to use more than a pinch of saffron, or it will overpower all the other spices (and the hens and anything else you're eating).

MAKES 4 ENTREE SERVINGS.