In The Hands Of A Chef Part 4

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 garlic clove, minced and then mashed with a pinch of salt to make a paste teaspoon minced shallot 5 anchovies, rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 cups vegetable oil for deep-frying cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup semolina flour 1 medium white onion, sliced paper-thin 8 leaves Romaine lettuce, washed, dried, and cut crosswise into 3-inch-wide strips 8 escarole leaves, washed thoroughly, dried, and cut crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips 3 ounces thinly sliced capocollo, cut into -inch-wide strips 2 ounces shaved pecorino Romano

1. Combine the garlic, shallot, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar to make an emulsion. Add the extra virgin olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper. Combine the garlic, shallot, anchovies, and mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in the red wine vinegar to make an emulsion. Add the extra virgin olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly until the vinaigrette is smooth and emulsified. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Heat the vegetable oil in a small deep pot to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature. Heat the vegetable oil in a small deep pot to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature.

3. Toss the flours together in a large bowl. Add the onion and toss until coated. The onion will separate into rings, which is fine. Fry the onions, a handful at a time, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop out and drain on paper towels. When all the onions are done, season with salt. Toss the flours together in a large bowl. Add the onion and toss until coated. The onion will separate into rings, which is fine. Fry the onions, a handful at a time, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Scoop out and drain on paper towels. When all the onions are done, season with salt.

4. Toss the Romaine, escarole, and capocollo together in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and toss again. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary. Toss the Romaine, escarole, and capocollo together in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and toss again. Taste, then season with salt and pepper if necessary.

5. Arrange the salad on chilled plates. Top each with some pecorino shavings and a small handful of fried onions, and serve. Arrange the salad on chilled plates. Top each with some pecorino shavings and a small handful of fried onions, and serve.

Avocado and Chipotle Shrimp Salad with Tequila Shooters Chipotle peppers and a host of south-of-the-border seasonings put a Mexican spin on this adults-only shrimp and avocado salad. But when I wanted a wild over-the-top accompaniment, I remembered an old Martha Stewart trick of hollowing out cuc.u.mber sections to make sake gla.s.ses. A little salt transforms the cuc.u.mbers into shot gla.s.ses for tequila shooters. Make sure you eat this in the shade. of south-of-the-border seasonings put a Mexican spin on this adults-only shrimp and avocado salad. But when I wanted a wild over-the-top accompaniment, I remembered an old Martha Stewart trick of hollowing out cuc.u.mber sections to make sake gla.s.ses. A little salt transforms the cuc.u.mbers into shot gla.s.ses for tequila shooters. Make sure you eat this in the shade.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 European (seedless) cuc.u.mber, washed cup freshly squeezed lime juice cup plus 1 tablespoon tequila 2 teaspoons sugar 1 garlic clove, minced 2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded, and minced cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo, finely chopped, with their sauce 2 ripe avocados 8 extra-large shrimp (about pound), peeled and deveined 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes 1 small red onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 1 lime, cut into quarters

1. Trim the ends of the cuc.u.mber, then cut it crosswise into quarters. Using a melon bailer or a small spoon, scoop the flesh out of each piece, leaving 1/4-inch-thick walls and a Mi-inch bottom. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Trim the ends of the cuc.u.mber, then cut it crosswise into quarters. Using a melon bailer or a small spoon, scoop the flesh out of each piece, leaving 1/4-inch-thick walls and a Mi-inch bottom. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

2. Whisk together the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the tequila, Whisk together the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the tequila, teaspoon of the sugar, the garlic, and jalapenos in a small bowl. Whisk in teaspoon of the sugar, the garlic, and jalapenos in a small bowl. Whisk in cup plus 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a slow, thin stream. Season with salt and pepper. cup plus 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a slow, thin stream. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Mix the chipotle chiles with 1 teaspoon of the sugar and 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette in a small bowl. Add the shrimp and toss well. Cover and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator. Refrigerate the rest of the vinaigrette. Mix the chipotle chiles with 1 teaspoon of the sugar and 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette in a small bowl. Add the shrimp and toss well. Cover and marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator. Refrigerate the rest of the vinaigrette.

4. When you're ready to finish the dish, peel, pit and cut each avocado into 8 slices. When you're ready to finish the dish, peel, pit and cut each avocado into 8 slices.

5. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Season the shrimp with salt, then add to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Season the shrimp with salt, then add to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool.

6. When the pan has cooled, add the tomatoes, red onion, and herbs to the shrimp, along with cup of the vinaigrette. Season with salt and toss well (do this in the pan so you don't lose any of the shrimp's cooking juices). When the pan has cooled, add the tomatoes, red onion, and herbs to the shrimp, along with cup of the vinaigrette. Season with salt and toss well (do this in the pan so you don't lose any of the shrimp's cooking juices).

7. Arrange 4 slices of avocado on each plate. Sprinkle the avocado with salt and pepper and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Spoon the salad on top, putting 2 shrimp on each plate. Dip the tops of the cuc.u.mber into salt if desired. Fill each one with 2 tablespoons of the tequila. Arrange 4 slices of avocado on each plate. Sprinkle the avocado with salt and pepper and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Spoon the salad on top, putting 2 shrimp on each plate. Dip the tops of the cuc.u.mber into salt if desired. Fill each one with 2 tablespoons of the tequila.

8. Stand a cuc.u.mber shooter next to each salad, garnish each salad with a wedge of lime and a sprig of cilantro, and serve. Stand a cuc.u.mber shooter next to each salad, garnish each salad with a wedge of lime and a sprig of cilantro, and serve.

Fingerling Potato, Fig, and Tarragon Salad This salad was born out of one of those what-do-we-have-in-the-larder nights when there seemed to be a little of this and a little of that. Adding the figs was taking a chance-figs and tarragon?-but they're wonderful. The extra sweetness is welcome in a cold salad, and they add a little more textural contrast. A great companion to grilled fish or chicken. out of one of those what-do-we-have-in-the-larder nights when there seemed to be a little of this and a little of that. Adding the figs was taking a chance-figs and tarragon?-but they're wonderful. The extra sweetness is welcome in a cold salad, and they add a little more textural contrast. A great companion to grilled fish or chicken.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 pounds fingerling potatoes (if fingerlings are unavailable, subst.i.tute other small new potatoes), scrubbed and cut lengthwise in half 6 bay leaves, preferably fresh 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar cup extra virgin olive oil 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into inch dice 12 dried figs, preferably Turkish, stems removed and cut lengthwise into quarters 1 small red onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon cup chopped pitted green olives

1. Put the potatoes in a saucepan and add cold water to cover by Put the potatoes in a saucepan and add cold water to cover by inch. Add the bay leaves and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the potatoes to cool in the water. Drain, removing and discarding the bay leaves. inch. Add the bay leaves and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the potatoes to cool in the water. Drain, removing and discarding the bay leaves.

2. Whisk the mustard and red wine vinegar together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Continue whisking while slowly adding the olive in a thin, steady stream. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Whisk the mustard and red wine vinegar together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Continue whisking while slowly adding the olive in a thin, steady stream. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.

3. Just before serving, combine the potatoes, celery, figs, red onion, parsley, tarragon, and olives in a large bowl, add the vinaigrette, and toss to coat. Taste, season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve. Just before serving, combine the potatoes, celery, figs, red onion, parsley, tarragon, and olives in a large bowl, add the vinaigrette, and toss to coat. Taste, season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve.

Panzanella-Fried Bread Salad with Roasted Peppers, Capers, and Toasted Garlic Panzanella, Italian bread salad, is one of the reasons to save your stale bread during the summer months, when other salad ingredients are at their peak. As Americans, we often reduce the life cycle of bread to two stages-fresh and throw-it-away. But in cultures where bread is baked locally, the cycle extends from one day of baking to the next, and it may last for as long as a week. As a loaf becomes progressively firmer, it can be grilled or toasted, rubbed with olive oil to make crostini or bruschetta, or fried in olive oil for delicious croutons. Here the croutons absorb the flavor of the olive oil and add crunch to the finished salad. one of the reasons to save your stale bread during the summer months, when other salad ingredients are at their peak. As Americans, we often reduce the life cycle of bread to two stages-fresh and throw-it-away. But in cultures where bread is baked locally, the cycle extends from one day of baking to the next, and it may last for as long as a week. As a loaf becomes progressively firmer, it can be grilled or toasted, rubbed with olive oil to make crostini or bruschetta, or fried in olive oil for delicious croutons. Here the croutons absorb the flavor of the olive oil and add crunch to the finished salad.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed 20 garlic cloves, peeled Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups 1-inch crustless bread cubes 1 large red onion, cut into -inch-thick slices 5 large red peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch-wide strips 2 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed cup balsamic vinegar 1 cup chopped fresh fiat-leaf parsley cup chopped fresh basil 1 ounce Pecorino Romano shavings

DO AHEAD: Roast and peel the peppers. Peel the garlic; wrap it tightly in several layers of plastic wrap and refrigerate so it doesn't dry out. Roast and peel the peppers. Peel the garlic; wrap it tightly in several layers of plastic wrap and refrigerate so it doesn't dry out.

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over low heat. Add the garlic cloves, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Remove the garlic from the pan with a slotted spoon, and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over low heat. Add the garlic cloves, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Remove the garlic from the pan with a slotted spoon, and set aside.

2. Increase the heat to medium. Add the bread to the pan and saute until golden brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the bread to a large bowl. Increase the heat to medium. Add the bread to the pan and saute until golden brown on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the bread to a large bowl.

3. Add the onion to the pan and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add to the bread. Add the onion to the pan and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add to the bread.

4. Add the garlic, roasted peppers, anchovies, and capers to the bowl. Toss well. Season with salt and pepper. Add the balsamic vinegar, parsley, basil, and, if necessary, additional olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss again. Taste, and adjust the seasonings as necessary. Add the garlic, roasted peppers, anchovies, and capers to the bowl. Toss well. Season with salt and pepper. Add the balsamic vinegar, parsley, basil, and, if necessary, additional olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss again. Taste, and adjust the seasonings as necessary.

5. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, top with the pecorino shavings, and serve. Arrange the salad on chilled plates, top with the pecorino shavings, and serve.

Roasted Pear and Radicchio Salad with Gorgonzola Cream and Toasted Hazelnuts Pears and blue cheese, especially Stilton, Roquefort, or Gorgonzola, are a combination that seems to continually reinvent itself. The new wrinkle here is radicchio. The combination works well as an appetizer or a great end-of-the-meal salad because it mimics a fruit and cheese course. Be sure to use Gorgonzola Stilton, Roquefort, or Gorgonzola, are a combination that seems to continually reinvent itself. The new wrinkle here is radicchio. The combination works well as an appetizer or a great end-of-the-meal salad because it mimics a fruit and cheese course. Be sure to use Gorgonzola dolce, dolce, the sweet, softer style of the cheese, not the firmer aged cheese known as Gorgonzola the sweet, softer style of the cheese, not the firmer aged cheese known as Gorgonzola naturale. naturale.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

2 ripe but firm Bosc pears Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large head radicchio, washed, dried, and cut into quarters 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, plus additional for oiling the baking sheet 1 cup heavy cream 2 ounces Gorgonzola dolce, dolce, cut into small pieces cut into small pieces 2 ounces watercress, washed, dried, and trimmed of thick stems 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar About 2 ounces ( cup) hazelnuts, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 shallot, peeled, sliced paper-thin, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes (to remove bitterness), drained, and dried

1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Cut the pears in half and remove their cores. Place the pears and radicchio in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper, and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the pears and radicchio cut side down on a well-oiled baking sheet. Roast on the bottom rack of the oven until the radicchio is tender and brown around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the radicchio and set aside. Continue cooking the pears until tender and caramelized to a deep golden brown on the cut side, an additional 15 to 20 minutes. Cut the pears in half and remove their cores. Place the pears and radicchio in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper, and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the pears and radicchio cut side down on a well-oiled baking sheet. Roast on the bottom rack of the oven until the radicchio is tender and brown around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the radicchio and set aside. Continue cooking the pears until tender and caramelized to a deep golden brown on the cut side, an additional 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Put the cream in a small saucepan and set it over medium heat-place the pan slightly off center so that as the cream heats, the foam and fat will acc.u.mulate against the side of the pan. Simmer, skimming the foam frequently, until the cream reduces by one-quarter, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat and whisk in the cheese until completely melted. Don't let the mixture boil, or it will break; lower the heat if necessary. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat, and keep warm. Put the cream in a small saucepan and set it over medium heat-place the pan slightly off center so that as the cream heats, the foam and fat will acc.u.mulate against the side of the pan. Simmer, skimming the foam frequently, until the cream reduces by one-quarter, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat and whisk in the cheese until completely melted. Don't let the mixture boil, or it will break; lower the heat if necessary. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat, and keep warm.

4. Divide the sauce among four warmed plates. Gently toss the pears, radicchio, and watercress with 2 tablespoons of the balsamic vinegar and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Arrange atop the sauced plates. Divide the sauce among four warmed plates. Gently toss the pears, radicchio, and watercress with 2 tablespoons of the balsamic vinegar and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Arrange atop the sauced plates.

5. Toss the hazelnuts and sliced shallots with the remaining 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Spoon the hazelnuts and shallots over the salads and serve. Toss the hazelnuts and sliced shallots with the remaining 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Spoon the hazelnuts and shallots over the salads and serve.

Grilled Onion and Parsley Salad with Black Olives and Pomegranate Seeds Everyone knows that herbs are flavorings, but what about herbs as vegetables in their own right? The concept isn't as farfetched as it might seem. Sorrel is known primarily as an herb in this country, but in Europe, especially in France, it's often cooked and served as a sauce. Fennel clearly straddles the line, and in Italy, arugula is sometimes used as a seasoning, as well as a green. Eva Sommaripa, whose farm in Westport, Ma.s.sachusetts, is the source of many of the high-quality herbs we use at Rialto, encouraged me to broaden my perspective on herbs many years ago, especially when thinking of salad greens. As Eva's friends can attest, she is nothing if not persuasive. I put herbs on everything and often feature an herb salad on my menu. flavorings, but what about herbs as vegetables in their own right? The concept isn't as farfetched as it might seem. Sorrel is known primarily as an herb in this country, but in Europe, especially in France, it's often cooked and served as a sauce. Fennel clearly straddles the line, and in Italy, arugula is sometimes used as a seasoning, as well as a green. Eva Sommaripa, whose farm in Westport, Ma.s.sachusetts, is the source of many of the high-quality herbs we use at Rialto, encouraged me to broaden my perspective on herbs many years ago, especially when thinking of salad greens. As Eva's friends can attest, she is nothing if not persuasive. I put herbs on everything and often feature an herb salad on my menu.

Like the Middle Eastern tabbouleh, this salad uses parsley leaves as a primary ingredient. After you've made it once or twice, try subst.i.tuting basil leaves or chives for half of the parsley for a much different effect.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

2 large sweet onions (dalia or Walla Walla, for example), sliced inch thick cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Leaves from 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley cup pitted Nicoise olives cup pomegranate seeds 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.

2. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until lightly charred and tender, 8 to 10 minutes per side. Be careful not to burn the onions. If you can cook with the top of your grill down, the time will be somewhat shortened. Transfer the onions to a plate and let them cool to room temperature. Toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill until lightly charred and tender, 8 to 10 minutes per side. Be careful not to burn the onions. If you can cook with the top of your grill down, the time will be somewhat shortened. Transfer the onions to a plate and let them cool to room temperature.

3. Toss the onions with the remaining olive oil, the parsley, olives, pomegranate seeds, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Toss the onions with the remaining olive oil, the parsley, olives, pomegranate seeds, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Tomato and Grilled Mushroom Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette The summer when I was fifteen, we left England, where my father was taking his sabbatical, for two wonderful weeks in the ancient walled town of Flavigny, in Burgundy. Most nights we ate at a small bistro where each meal began with a large plate of perfectly ripe peeled tomatoes sprinkled heavily with chopped parsley. Our server whisked together a simple tableside vinaigrette of mustard, red wine vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. As an adult, I tried for many years to duplicate the flavor of what my memory told me was a basic one-two-three recipe, but I could never get it to work out. Several years ago, I found myself nibbling a sample of curly parsley from my mother's herb garden when I suddenly realized that I was tasting the missing ingredient. When we turned up our noses at curly parsley in the '80s in favor of flat-leaf, or "Italian, " parsley, as it's sometimes called, we eliminated a flavor from our palette. This salad needs the sharper taste of the curly variety to taste right, at least to me. fifteen, we left England, where my father was taking his sabbatical, for two wonderful weeks in the ancient walled town of Flavigny, in Burgundy. Most nights we ate at a small bistro where each meal began with a large plate of perfectly ripe peeled tomatoes sprinkled heavily with chopped parsley. Our server whisked together a simple tableside vinaigrette of mustard, red wine vinegar, and extra virgin olive oil. As an adult, I tried for many years to duplicate the flavor of what my memory told me was a basic one-two-three recipe, but I could never get it to work out. Several years ago, I found myself nibbling a sample of curly parsley from my mother's herb garden when I suddenly realized that I was tasting the missing ingredient. When we turned up our noses at curly parsley in the '80s in favor of flat-leaf, or "Italian, " parsley, as it's sometimes called, we eliminated a flavor from our palette. This salad needs the sharper taste of the curly variety to taste right, at least to me.

This dish is actually two salads, although I love them together when I can get my hands on good tomatoes and mushrooms simultaneously. A loaf of bread, a couple of nice cheeses, and you have a great summer meal.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

pound a.s.sorted mushrooms large enough to slice or chop and grill (portabellas, cremini, and/or large white mushrooms) 1 garlic clove, minced cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 pound ripe beefsteak tomatoes, peeled (see page 55) cup finely chopped fresh curly parsley 1 shallot, sliced paper-thin, soaked in ice water for 20 minutes (to remove bitterness), drained, and patted dry 1 ounce aged sheep's milk or goat cheese, grated

1. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. You should be able to hold your hand near the grilling surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.

2. To prepare the mushrooms, cut large mushroom caps, such as portabellas, into 1-inch-thick slices. Cut other mushrooms into 2-inch pieces. The point is to cut them so they'll cook fairly speedily while leaving them large enough not to fall between the bars of the grill. (Use a grill basket if you have one.) Toss the mushrooms with the garlic, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Grill, turning once, until tender and slightly charred, about 6 minutes. Set aside. To prepare the mushrooms, cut large mushroom caps, such as portabellas, into 1-inch-thick slices. Cut other mushrooms into 2-inch pieces. The point is to cut them so they'll cook fairly speedily while leaving them large enough not to fall between the bars of the grill. (Use a grill basket if you have one.) Toss the mushrooms with the garlic, 2 tablespoons of the oil, and the thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Grill, turning once, until tender and slightly charred, about 6 minutes. Set aside.

3. Whisk the mustard and red wine vinegar together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Whisk in the remaining Whisk the mustard and red wine vinegar together in a small bowl to form an emulsion. Whisk in the remaining cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until it is completely absorbed. Season with salt and pepper. cup olive oil in a thin, steady stream until it is completely absorbed. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Remove the stems and cut the tomatoes into slices inch thick. Remove the stems and cut the tomatoes into slices inch thick.

5. Arrange the tomatoes in overlapping rows on a platter. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon two-thirds of the vinaigrette over the tomatoes and sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Arrange the grilled mushrooms over the tomatoes. Distribute the shallots over the top and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and serve. Arrange the tomatoes in overlapping rows on a platter. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon two-thirds of the vinaigrette over the tomatoes and sprinkle with the chopped parsley. Arrange the grilled mushrooms over the tomatoes. Distribute the shallots over the top and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and serve.

Beet and Spinach Salad with Goat Cheese and Grilled Fresh Figs Beets and chevre, fresh goat cheese, are a solid combination, but simply not interesting enough by themselves. Figs and spinach add just enough interest to enliven the salad without overwhelming it. Many chevres are pleasant enough but almost as nondescript as cream cheese. Try to find one with some chalky tartness that can offer a counterpoint to its mildly sweet partners, beets and figs. cheese, are a solid combination, but simply not interesting enough by themselves. Figs and spinach add just enough interest to enliven the salad without overwhelming it. Many chevres are pleasant enough but almost as nondescript as cream cheese. Try to find one with some chalky tartness that can offer a counterpoint to its mildly sweet partners, beets and figs.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

4 small beets, washed, greens trimmed to an inch 2 orange quarters (wash the orange before slicing) Kosher salt 1 teaspoon grated orange zest cup balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon crushed toasted anise seeds 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon minced shallots cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 8 fresh figs, cut lengthwise in half 3 cups lightly packed baby spinach leaves pound fresh goat cheese 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed

1. Put the beets in a saucepan large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Squeeze the juice from the orange quarters into the pan. Add the rinds and enough water to cover the beets by an inch. Season with salt, cover, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the beets are tender, about 45 minutes. Allow the beets to cool in the cooking liquid. Put the beets in a saucepan large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Squeeze the juice from the orange quarters into the pan. Add the rinds and enough water to cover the beets by an inch. Season with salt, cover, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the beets are tender, about 45 minutes. Allow the beets to cool in the cooking liquid.

2. Drain the beets, then remove the skins and stems by rubbing them with an old kitchen towel. Cut each beet into 8 wedges. Place the wedges in a large bowl and toss with the orange zest and 1 tablespoon of the balsamic vinegar. Drain the beets, then remove the skins and stems by rubbing them with an old kitchen towel. Cut each beet into 8 wedges. Place the wedges in a large bowl and toss with the orange zest and 1 tablespoon of the balsamic vinegar.

3. Whisk together the anise seeds, mustard, and shallots with the remaining 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Add cup of the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly, until the vinaigrette is smooth and completely blended. Season with salt and pepper. Whisk together the anise seeds, mustard, and shallots with the remaining 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Add cup of the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly, until the vinaigrette is smooth and completely blended. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Preheat a grill pan over high heat (or use an outdoor grill, if you prefer). Brush the grill pan with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Toss the figs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill cut side down until browned and tender, only a minute. Remove from the heat and toss with 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette. Preheat a grill pan over high heat (or use an outdoor grill, if you prefer). Brush the grill pan with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Toss the figs with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill cut side down until browned and tender, only a minute. Remove from the heat and toss with 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette.

5. Add the spinach and the remaining vinaigrette to the bowl with the beets. Toss well, then arrange on four plates. Crumble the goat cheese over the beets, garnish with the grilled figs, and capers and serve. Add the spinach and the remaining vinaigrette to the bowl with the beets. Toss well, then arrange on four plates. Crumble the goat cheese over the beets, garnish with the grilled figs, and capers and serve.

Four Vegetable Starters, 23 SIDES, AND A FEW THINGS FOR THE PANTRY.

Vegetables were a marginal attraction for me, an enhancement for the culinary centerpiece of meat or fish, until I studied the food of southern France, Italy, and Spain, where appreciation for fresh seasonal produce approaches a near-spiritual reverence. As opportunities to travel came my way, I began to understand why other cultures lavish such care on their vegetables. If you live in an environment where animal protein is historically scarce, you exercise your creativity on what for me, an enhancement for the culinary centerpiece of meat or fish, until I studied the food of southern France, Italy, and Spain, where appreciation for fresh seasonal produce approaches a near-spiritual reverence. As opportunities to travel came my way, I began to understand why other cultures lavish such care on their vegetables. If you live in an environment where animal protein is historically scarce, you exercise your creativity on what is is available. If winter means you have to work your way through a cellar full of turnips and potatoes, you become adept at purees and gratins and roasting in order to stave off monotony. The reappearance of tender greens in the spring is a welcome relief, and the ripening of tomatoes cause for celebration. available. If winter means you have to work your way through a cellar full of turnips and potatoes, you become adept at purees and gratins and roasting in order to stave off monotony. The reappearance of tender greens in the spring is a welcome relief, and the ripening of tomatoes cause for celebration.

My approach to vegetables is to think seasonally, buy locally, and fill in the gaps with the best global produce available during the winter. From late spring through the fall, I cook with whatever looks best at the local farmers' market. In the winter, when of necessity I need to shop indoors, I go to one of the really good produce or whole foods stores near to me.

My shopping at farmers' markets is motivated by far more than a nostalgic fondness for a European lifestyle. Farmers' markets are supplied by small farmers, and these producers are responsive to consumers in ways that large wholesalers are not. Heirloom tomatoes or peaches are far more likely to show up in a farmers' market than a grocery store. Before I decided to include recipes for squash blossoms in this book, I asked the zucchini vendor in my market whether she'd sell me zucchini blossoms. "How many do you want?" She was already selling them to other customers who ordered them in advance. As a chef, I'm accustomed to having suppliers try to oblige me, but in farmers' markets, ordinary consumers find that vendors are eager to form the same type of sustaining relations.h.i.+ps with them.

The recipes in this chapter offer you a broad range of seasonal choices. Warm Spring Vegetable Salad with Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Radicchio, Warm Asparagus Spears with Aged Gouda, and Slow-Roasted Tomatoes are spring and summer treats, as are Simple Favas with b.u.t.ter and Leek, Artichoke, and Fennel Strudel. (It's unlikely that fava beans will ever show up in my New England farmers' market, but they do put in a seasonal appearance in my local whole-foods grocery store.) Crisp Shredded Potato Pancakes, Winter Vegetable Gratin with Cranberries and Chestnuts, a variety of roasted vegetable recipes, and highly seasoned purees and mashes provide an antidote to cold-weather tedium. Broccoli rabe, ordinary broccoli, and a selection of hardy leafy greens keep a green thread alive in your culinary repertoire through the winter months. Braised Escarole with Parmesan Crust is the dish to make when you just can't stand another gray February day. By the time you've cooked your way through these, the first spring asparagus should be just around the corner.

Braised Leeks and s.h.i.+takes Wrapped in Pancetta Once you taste leeks braised in a little white wine and chicken stock, you'll never go back to braising them in water. Here the braised leeks are stuffed with a couple of sauteed s.h.i.+takes, then wrapped with pancetta to hold everything together. There's a final saute to seal the bundles. The finished leeks deserve their own course as an appetizer. Almost all of the steps in this dish can be done a day ahead and the bundles refrigerated overnight. Save the final saute until just before serving. in a little white wine and chicken stock, you'll never go back to braising them in water. Here the braised leeks are stuffed with a couple of sauteed s.h.i.+takes, then wrapped with pancetta to hold everything together. There's a final saute to seal the bundles. The finished leeks deserve their own course as an appetizer. Almost all of the steps in this dish can be done a day ahead and the bundles refrigerated overnight. Save the final saute until just before serving.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

4 large leeks (white part needs to be 6 inches long after tr.i.m.m.i.n.g) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 8 medium s.h.i.+takes, stems removed and discarded or saved for stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine 1 sprig thyme teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 8 thin slices pancetta (3 to 4 ounces)

1. Trim the roots off each leek. Cut off the green tops and any tough outer leaves. Slice each leek lengthwise, leaving a 2-inch section of the base intact. Holding the base tightly, swish each leek vigorously in a pot of cold water, spreading the leaves apart, then rinse under cold running water to dislodge any sand or grit trapped between the leaves. Shake off excess water. Trim the roots off each leek. Cut off the green tops and any tough outer leaves. Slice each leek lengthwise, leaving a 2-inch section of the base intact. Holding the base tightly, swish each leek vigorously in a pot of cold water, spreading the leaves apart, then rinse under cold running water to dislodge any sand or grit trapped between the leaves. Shake off excess water.

2. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the mushroom caps, season with salt and pepper, and cook, turning once, until tender, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and set aside. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the mushroom caps, season with salt and pepper, and cook, turning once, until tender, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the mushrooms to a plate and set aside.

3. Add the leeks to the pan and sear all over until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the stock, wine, thyme, and rosemary, lay a piece of foil over the leeks, and then cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the leeks are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the leeks from the liquid and cool; reserve the braising liquid. Add the leeks to the pan and sear all over until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the stock, wine, thyme, and rosemary, lay a piece of foil over the leeks, and then cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the leeks are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the leeks from the liquid and cool; reserve the braising liquid.

4. Insert 2 s.h.i.+takes between the halves of each leek, like a sandwich. Wrap 2 slices of the pancetta around each leek in a spiral, to secure the s.h.i.+takes and bind the leek halves together. Insert 2 s.h.i.+takes between the halves of each leek, like a sandwich. Wrap 2 slices of the pancetta around each leek in a spiral, to secure the s.h.i.+takes and bind the leek halves together.

5. Place the pancetta-wrapped leeks in a large nonstick saute pan and cook over medium heat, using tongs to turn the leeks, until the pancetta is browned all over and the leeks are warm. Serve drizzled with the braising liquid. Place the pancetta-wrapped leeks in a large nonstick saute pan and cook over medium heat, using tongs to turn the leeks, until the pancetta is browned all over and the leeks are warm. Serve drizzled with the braising liquid.

Warm Asparagus Spears with Aged Gouda and Sherry Vinaigrette Asparagus are finger food in my family, like corn on the cob or clams on the half-sh.e.l.l, and in the spring when they first appear in the markets, we eat as much as we can. Unless the spears are pencil-thin, I peel the stalks; unpeeled thick spears have an unpleasant "stemmy" flavor and are tough. Although we often eat steamed asparagus dressed with a little good olive oil, this recipe calls for blanching the asparagus, then giving it a quick roast. Roasting brings out a nutty quality in the vegetable's flavor, well matched with the aged Gouda that is sprinkled on just before serving. my family, like corn on the cob or clams on the half-sh.e.l.l, and in the spring when they first appear in the markets, we eat as much as we can. Unless the spears are pencil-thin, I peel the stalks; unpeeled thick spears have an unpleasant "stemmy" flavor and are tough. Although we often eat steamed asparagus dressed with a little good olive oil, this recipe calls for blanching the asparagus, then giving it a quick roast. Roasting brings out a nutty quality in the vegetable's flavor, well matched with the aged Gouda that is sprinkled on just before serving.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

2 pounds asparagus Kosher salt 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper