In The Hands Of A Chef Part 6

3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or flameproof gratin dish over medium heat. (It's important to use a shallow pan with low sides so excess moisture can evaporate as the dish cooks.) Sear the escarole until browned and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or flameproof gratin dish over medium heat. (It's important to use a shallow pan with low sides so excess moisture can evaporate as the dish cooks.) Sear the escarole until browned and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a plate.

4. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, onions, and garlic to the pan, and cook until the onion is tender, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, onions, and garlic to the pan, and cook until the onion is tender, about 10 minutes.

5. Return the escarole to the pan and add the herbs, lemon zest, chicken stock, and wine. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to a third of its original volume. Cover the escarole with a piece of foil, transfer to the oven and braise for 30 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Return the escarole to the pan and add the herbs, lemon zest, chicken stock, and wine. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes, or until the liquid is reduced to a third of its original volume. Cover the escarole with a piece of foil, transfer to the oven and braise for 30 minutes, or until it is tender and the liquid has been absorbed.

6. Take the pan out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 400F. Remove the foil and sprinkle the cheese and crumbs over the top of the escarole. Return the pan to the oven and bake until a golden brown crust forms, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately. Take the pan out of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 400F. Remove the foil and sprinkle the cheese and crumbs over the top of the escarole. Return the pan to the oven and bake until a golden brown crust forms, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

HOW TO CLEAN ESCAROLENothing ruins a dish of escarole faster than the sudden awareness that it is still gritty. Extra pains must be taken to clean escarole when the heads are simply quartered or halved before cooking (individual leaves are easy to rinse). Begin by letting the cut-up escarole rest for a minute in a large pot filled with warm water. The warm water relaxes the escarole, allowing the sand trapped between the leaves at the base of each section to rinse free. Slide your fingers between the leaves as far as they will go toward the base without breaking the leaves and shake vigorously. Repeat with each section, then change the water and wash the escarole again. Inspect the base of each section for any remaining grit. If necessary, rinse again so they're completely clean. Drain and pat dry.

Braised Eggplant and Red Peppers with Honey and Spices I began experimenting with toasted spice began experimenting with toasted spice seeds about fifteen years ago, after encountering them in Middle Eastern dishes. At first glance this dish might be mistaken for ratatouille, but the toasted mustard, coriander, and c.u.min seeds move it into a more exotic culinary zone. Because the dish is good hot or cold, it, works well on picnics or as a complement to grilled meats (no running between outdoor grill and kitchen). seeds about fifteen years ago, after encountering them in Middle Eastern dishes. At first glance this dish might be mistaken for ratatouille, but the toasted mustard, coriander, and c.u.min seeds move it into a more exotic culinary zone. Because the dish is good hot or cold, it, works well on picnics or as a complement to grilled meats (no running between outdoor grill and kitchen).

On a technical note, eggplant is a sponge for oil. If you broil it, as indicated below, you can give it a great color without having to use as much oil as you would to get the same effect by sauteing. Secondly, the skin of j.a.panese eggplant is much more delicate than that of its Italian or American counterpart. You don't need to peel it before cooking.

I like including leftovers on a plate of Middle Eastern dishes served at room temperature. With some high-quality Greek or Armenian whole-milk yogurt, a few olives, hummus, and pita, it's all I need for lunch.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS OR ENOUGH SAUCE FOR 1 POUND PASTA.

teaspoon mustard seeds teaspoon coriander seeds teaspoon c.u.min seeds 4 j.a.panese eggplants (about 1 pound), sliced on a diagonal about 1 inch thick 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 2 red peppers, peeled with a vegetable peeler, stemmed, seeded, and chopped into 1-inch pieces 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half cup water 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Toast the mustard, coriander, and c.u.min seeds in a small dry pan over low heat until they start to pop, 3 to 5 minutes; do not allow to burn. Remove from the heat. When the seeds are cool, grind them in a spice mill or crush them into a powder with a mortar and pestle. Toast the mustard, coriander, and c.u.min seeds in a small dry pan over low heat until they start to pop, 3 to 5 minutes; do not allow to burn. Remove from the heat. When the seeds are cool, grind them in a spice mill or crush them into a powder with a mortar and pestle.

2. Preheat the broiler. Toss the eggplant slices in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer on a sheet pan and broil until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the pieces and broil for 5 minutes on the other side, or until golden brown. Set aside. Preheat the broiler. Toss the eggplant slices in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer on a sheet pan and broil until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the pieces and broil for 5 minutes on the other side, or until golden brown. Set aside.

3. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and red peppers and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic and ginger and continue cooking until they release their perfume, a couple of minutes. Add the eggplant, tomatoes, and water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, lower the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper if necessary. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and red peppers and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic and ginger and continue cooking until they release their perfume, a couple of minutes. Add the eggplant, tomatoes, and water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, lower the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper if necessary.

4. Stir in the mint, parsley, honey, and red wine vinegar. Remove from the heat. Serve hot or at room temperature. Stir in the mint, parsley, honey, and red wine vinegar. Remove from the heat. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Roasted Red Saffron Peppers with Mint and Chiles A Spanish Spanish tapa, tapa, one of those one of those elegant little dishes designed to accompany aperitifs, gave me the idea for this dish, which tastes as bright as its wonderful hue. You can find saffron and peppers in one combination or another all along the Mediterranean sh.o.r.eline of Spain and France, but the sherry vinegar is a distinctly Spanish touch. This is a great dish to prepare at the end of the summer, when red peppers are cheap and you've fired up the charcoal grill. The smoky flavor from grilling the peppers makes the dish all that much richer. elegant little dishes designed to accompany aperitifs, gave me the idea for this dish, which tastes as bright as its wonderful hue. You can find saffron and peppers in one combination or another all along the Mediterranean sh.o.r.eline of Spain and France, but the sherry vinegar is a distinctly Spanish touch. This is a great dish to prepare at the end of the summer, when red peppers are cheap and you've fired up the charcoal grill. The smoky flavor from grilling the peppers makes the dish all that much richer.

Serve the peppers as a side dish with grilled chicken or pork, or chop them up and use as a relish with the same food, served cold. The peppers will keep for up to a week if refrigerated.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, cut into -inch-thick slices 2 garlic cloves, chopped teaspoon hot red pepper flakes teaspoon paprika, preferably Spanish teaspoon saffron 4 red peppers, roasted (see box), peeled, stemmed, seeds and membranes removed, and sliced into 1-inch-wide strips 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

DO AHEAD: Roast, peel, seed, and slice the peppers, then refrigerate them until you're ready to finish the recipe. If you're preparing the dish a day ahead, omit the mint until just before serving. Roast, peel, seed, and slice the peppers, then refrigerate them until you're ready to finish the recipe. If you're preparing the dish a day ahead, omit the mint until just before serving.

1. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, paprika, and saffron and cook until the garlic releases its perfume, a couple of minutes. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, paprika, and saffron and cook until the garlic releases its perfume, a couple of minutes.

2. Add the peppers and sherry vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, turn the heat to low, and cook for another 3 minutes. Stir in the mint and serve. Add the peppers and sherry vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, turn the heat to low, and cook for another 3 minutes. Stir in the mint and serve.

HOW TO ROAST PEPPERSMAKES AS MANY AS YOU LIKE.Roasted red peppers are one of the few pantry staples in our house whose versatility approaches that of roasted garlic. When pureed, they flavor and thicken soups and sauces. They make great sandwiches, especially with mozzarella, roast beef, or cured Italian meats. And a few roasted peppers are halfway to one of my favorite dishes, Panzanella (page 71).The recipes in this book call for roasted red (or yellow) peppers, but you can apply the technique to any pepper with a thick layer of flesh. Peppers with thin walls don't have enough flesh left after peeling to make roasting them worthwhile. Take care when charring the peppers not to take them beyond the black-and-barely-blistered stage, or you'll burn the flesh as well as the skin.Roasted peppers will keep for 4 to 5 days if tightly wrapped and refrigerated. Covered in olive oil in an airtight container and refrigerated, they will last for 2 weeks. Always use a fork or tongs to remove them from the container, to avoid introducing bacteria from your skin into the oil.1. Preheat the broiler or prepare a hot fire in a grill. Preheat the broiler or prepare a hot fire in a grill.2. Set the peppers on a rack close to the heat. Broil or grill the peppers on one side until their skins begin to blister and blacken, then turn and repeat, turning as necessary, until the peppers have blackened all over. Depending on the size of the peppers, the process will take 10 to 20 minutes. Set the peppers on a rack close to the heat. Broil or grill the peppers on one side until their skins begin to blister and blacken, then turn and repeat, turning as necessary, until the peppers have blackened all over. Depending on the size of the peppers, the process will take 10 to 20 minutes.3. Put the peppers in a paper bag, close the bag, and allow to cool. As the peppers cool down, moisture will condense between the flesh of the peppers and their charred skins, making them easy to peel. Put the peppers in a paper bag, close the bag, and allow to cool. As the peppers cool down, moisture will condense between the flesh of the peppers and their charred skins, making them easy to peel.4. As soon as they're cool enough to be handled, remove the peppers from the bag and rub off their skins with a kitchen towel or your fingers. Their skins should slip off easily. Some people like to peel them under cool running water, but I prefer the messier method I've described; peeling them under water seems to remove some of the roasted flavor. Remove the stems, seeds, and membranes with a paring knife. If not using immediately, refrigerate them in a nonreactive container. (If you like, cover them with extra virgin olive oil for longer keeping.) As soon as they're cool enough to be handled, remove the peppers from the bag and rub off their skins with a kitchen towel or your fingers. Their skins should slip off easily. Some people like to peel them under cool running water, but I prefer the messier method I've described; peeling them under water seems to remove some of the roasted flavor. Remove the stems, seeds, and membranes with a paring knife. If not using immediately, refrigerate them in a nonreactive container. (If you like, cover them with extra virgin olive oil for longer keeping.) Sweet-and-Sour Shallots A companion dish of onions, shallots, companion dish of onions, shallots, and even garlic is common with main courses in Italy and France. I'm indebted to Boston chef Laura Brennan for introducing me to the recipe I've adapted here. The shallots are browned in b.u.t.ter, then cooked in seasoned chicken stock, balsamic vinegar, and port, which reduces to a rich golden glaze. Serve the shallots as a warm side dish or a room-temperature condiment for meat. Leftovers with some goat cheese make an excellent pizza topping. and even garlic is common with main courses in Italy and France. I'm indebted to Boston chef Laura Brennan for introducing me to the recipe I've adapted here. The shallots are browned in b.u.t.ter, then cooked in seasoned chicken stock, balsamic vinegar, and port, which reduces to a rich golden glaze. Serve the shallots as a warm side dish or a room-temperature condiment for meat. Leftovers with some goat cheese make an excellent pizza topping.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 12 large shallots (or 12 cipolline or 24 pearl onions), peeled Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup port cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons honey 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon fennel seeds 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth

1. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the shallots, season with salt and pepper, and brown all over. Lower the heat as necessary so the b.u.t.ter doesn't burn. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, add the shallots, season with salt and pepper, and brown all over. Lower the heat as necessary so the b.u.t.ter doesn't burn.

2. Add the remaining ingredients and continue cooking until the shallots are tender and the liquids have reduced to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Pay close attention so you don't overreduce the sauce. Remove the bay leaves and serve the shallots warm or at room temperature. Add the remaining ingredients and continue cooking until the shallots are tender and the liquids have reduced to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Pay close attention so you don't overreduce the sauce. Remove the bay leaves and serve the shallots warm or at room temperature.

Wild Mushroom Frica.s.see A wild mushroom frica.s.see is a wild mushroom frica.s.see is a woodsy, rustic take on sauteed mushrooms. The distinct textures, flavors, and appearance of the different fungi come through in the completed dish instead of dissipating into a general "mushroomy" flavor. The frica.s.see makes a great side dish with game, but you can also combine it with gnocchi or spaetzle for a fine entree, especially for vegetarians, if you subst.i.tute light cream for the chicken stock. One of my favorite uses for the frica.s.see (omitting the chicken stock altogether so the mixture is drier) is in Roasted Potatoes Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms and Truffled Eggs (page 301). woodsy, rustic take on sauteed mushrooms. The distinct textures, flavors, and appearance of the different fungi come through in the completed dish instead of dissipating into a general "mushroomy" flavor. The frica.s.see makes a great side dish with game, but you can also combine it with gnocchi or spaetzle for a fine entree, especially for vegetarians, if you subst.i.tute light cream for the chicken stock. One of my favorite uses for the frica.s.see (omitting the chicken stock altogether so the mixture is drier) is in Roasted Potatoes Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms and Truffled Eggs (page 301).

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 pounds a.s.sorted mushrooms (portabellas, oyster, s.h.i.+takes, or chanterelles), cleaned, s.h.i.+take stems discarded 3 to 5 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 3 shallots, minced 4 garlic cloves, minced cup dry Marsala 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1. Chop the mushrooms into pieces 2 to 3 inches long, as necessary: I like to leave wild mushrooms as whole or as large as is practical, especially the really beautiful ones like morels and chanterelles. Chop the mushrooms into pieces 2 to 3 inches long, as necessary: I like to leave wild mushrooms as whole or as large as is practical, especially the really beautiful ones like morels and chanterelles.

2. Saute the mushrooms in batches, each type individually. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as it stops foaming, add the first batch of mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. If you add the mushrooms before the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, the pan won't be hot enough to sear. Don't crowd the pan-if you cook too many mushrooms at once, they tend to steam instead of sear. Saute the mushrooms until they are tender and their juices have evaporated, then transfer to a plate. Add another tablespoon of b.u.t.ter to the pan and, as soon as it stops foaming, add the next batch of mushrooms. Continue until you've cooked all the mushrooms, adding a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter to the pan before each new batch. Saute the mushrooms in batches, each type individually. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as it stops foaming, add the first batch of mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. If you add the mushrooms before the b.u.t.ter stops foaming, the pan won't be hot enough to sear. Don't crowd the pan-if you cook too many mushrooms at once, they tend to steam instead of sear. Saute the mushrooms until they are tender and their juices have evaporated, then transfer to a plate. Add another tablespoon of b.u.t.ter to the pan and, as soon as it stops foaming, add the next batch of mushrooms. Continue until you've cooked all the mushrooms, adding a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter to the pan before each new batch.

3. While the mushrooms are cooking, bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat and simmer until it reduces to 1 cup, about 15 minutes. While the mushrooms are cooking, bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat and simmer until it reduces to 1 cup, about 15 minutes.

4. After removing the final batch of mushrooms from the pan, lower the heat to medium. Add After removing the final batch of mushrooms from the pan, lower the heat to medium. Add tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, along with the shallots and garlic (do not wait for the b.u.t.ter to foam), and cook until the shallots are tender, about 3 minutes. Return all the mushrooms to the pan, add the Marsala and thyme, and cook until the Marsala has reduced by half. tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, along with the shallots and garlic (do not wait for the b.u.t.ter to foam), and cook until the shallots are tender, about 3 minutes. Return all the mushrooms to the pan, add the Marsala and thyme, and cook until the Marsala has reduced by half.

5. Add the chicken stock to the mushrooms, simmer and reduce to make a slightly soupy sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Serve immediately. Add the chicken stock to the mushrooms, simmer and reduce to make a slightly soupy sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Serve immediately.

Orange Beets I use this recipe more than use this recipe more than any other for preparing beets. The orange flavor is so light it's almost undetectable-until you take it away. Served warm, these beets make a simple side dish, but they can just as well be the jumping-off point for a cold beet salad or a startling addition to risotto. any other for preparing beets. The orange flavor is so light it's almost undetectable-until you take it away. Served warm, these beets make a simple side dish, but they can just as well be the jumping-off point for a cold beet salad or a startling addition to risotto.

If skinning beets seems too messy for the last minute before serving, make the beets ahead, then reheat them in a little extra virgin olive oil or b.u.t.ter.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 oranges, washed and quartered 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 4 bay leaves 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 6 medium beets, washed and greens trimmed to an inch Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Squeeze the orange quarters to release their juice into a large nonreactive saucepan that will hold the beets in a single layer. Add the rinds and all the remaining ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper. Add enough water to cover the beets by an inch. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and continue cooking until the beets are tender. Depending on the size of the beets, they'll take from 45 minutes to an hour to cook. Allow the beets to cool slightly in the cooking liquid. Squeeze the orange quarters to release their juice into a large nonreactive saucepan that will hold the beets in a single layer. Add the rinds and all the remaining ingredients, seasoning with salt and pepper. Add enough water to cover the beets by an inch. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and continue cooking until the beets are tender. Depending on the size of the beets, they'll take from 45 minutes to an hour to cook. Allow the beets to cool slightly in the cooking liquid.

2. As soon as the beets are cool enough to handle, remove the skins and stems (see box). Cut into slices or quarters, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately. As soon as the beets are cool enough to handle, remove the skins and stems (see box). Cut into slices or quarters, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

ON PEELING COOKED BEETSDisposable surgical gloves are a G.o.dsend when it comes to preparing beets. You can work while the beets are still warm because the gloves provide a layer of insulation, and the latex surface has enough "grab" that you can just rub the skins and stems off. No need for a knife. Since they also protect your hands from staining, you don't have to peel the beets under running water, a technique that robs them of flavor. Surgical plastic gloves are available at hardware or kitchen equipment stores. A kitchen towel-an old one, so you don't care if it stains-also makes a fine tool for rubbing the skins off beets (or roasted peppers).The French, recognizing the virtues of beets as well as their vices, have the right idea when it comes to beets. French shoppers can purchase beets already cooked and peeled-and preserved in Cryovac. All flavor and no mess.

Celery Root Puree M ost people first come to ost people first come to know celery root (also called celeriac) as a crunchy salad ingredient, perhaps in celery root remoulade, a French preparation of celery root matchsticks in a mayonnaise sauce flavored with mustard. It also makes a wonderful puree. For those unfamiliar with celery root's taste ("what know celery root (also called celeriac) as a crunchy salad ingredient, perhaps in celery root remoulade, a French preparation of celery root matchsticks in a mayonnaise sauce flavored with mustard. It also makes a wonderful puree. For those unfamiliar with celery root's taste ("what is is this?") the ident.i.ty of the puree is a pleasant dinner revelation. b.u.t.ter and cream enhance the flavor instead of overwhelming it. You can extend celery root with potatoes, but I'd rather save my money for the unadulterated dish. It's unmatched with pork and apples as a cold-weather combination. this?") the ident.i.ty of the puree is a pleasant dinner revelation. b.u.t.ter and cream enhance the flavor instead of overwhelming it. You can extend celery root with potatoes, but I'd rather save my money for the unadulterated dish. It's unmatched with pork and apples as a cold-weather combination.

Celery root's k.n.o.bby exterior is more easily skinned with a sharp paring knife than a vegetable peeler. Keep cut celery root in water acidulated with a little lemon juice (see page 84) so it doesn't discolor.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

4 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 small onion, sliced inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 celery root (about 1 pound), peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 1 small apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 8 wedges Up to cup heavy cream (optional) 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat and saute the onions until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Take care not to burn them. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the onions to a bowl. Heat 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat and saute the onions until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Take care not to burn them. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the onions to a bowl.

2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the saucepan, increase the heat to medium-high, and sear the celery root until lightly browned on all sides. Turn the heat to low. Add the garlic, return the onions to the pan, and season with salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock and apple pieces, cover, and cook until the celery root is tender enough to puree and the stock has reduced to a glaze, about an hour. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter to the saucepan, increase the heat to medium-high, and sear the celery root until lightly browned on all sides. Turn the heat to low. Add the garlic, return the onions to the pan, and season with salt and pepper. Add the chicken stock and apple pieces, cover, and cook until the celery root is tender enough to puree and the stock has reduced to a glaze, about an hour.

3. Puree the celery root. The texture should resemble mashed potatoes. For a smoother texture add the optional cream. Add the lemon juice. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve. Puree the celery root. The texture should resemble mashed potatoes. For a smoother texture add the optional cream. Add the lemon juice. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve.

Glazed Carrots in Honey and Orange Juice with Black Sesame Seeds and Mint I picked up some black sesame picked up some black sesame seeds at a Middle Eastern market one October and after putting them on the shelf at home promptly forgot about them. A few weeks later, I was desperately scavenging through our larder for seeds at a Middle Eastern market one October and after putting them on the shelf at home promptly forgot about them. A few weeks later, I was desperately scavenging through our larder for something something that would qualify our meal of chicken and rice as an official Halloween dinner, and I chanced on the black sesame seeds. The rest was simple luck, fresh carrots in the refrigerator, and a thriving stand of mint on the edge of our yard that hadn't yet realized the season was over. The combination of mint, citrus, and sesame evokes an eastern Mediterranean harmony, while the sesame seeds' color makes a striking visual impression. that would qualify our meal of chicken and rice as an official Halloween dinner, and I chanced on the black sesame seeds. The rest was simple luck, fresh carrots in the refrigerator, and a thriving stand of mint on the edge of our yard that hadn't yet realized the season was over. The combination of mint, citrus, and sesame evokes an eastern Mediterranean harmony, while the sesame seeds' color makes a striking visual impression.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 pound small carrots 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped shallots 2 tablespoons honey cup freshly squeezed orange juice 1 tablespoon soy sauce cup water 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds (available in Middle Eastern markets and health food stores)

1. Peel the carrots and cut into 2-inch lengths on the diagonal. If the carrots are thicker than your finger, first slice them in half lengthwise, before sectioning them. Peel the carrots and cut into 2-inch lengths on the diagonal. If the carrots are thicker than your finger, first slice them in half lengthwise, before sectioning them.

2. Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over high heat and sear the carrots until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to low, add the ginger, garlic, and shallots, and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over high heat and sear the carrots until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat to low, add the ginger, garlic, and shallots, and cook until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Add the honey, orange juice, soy sauce, and cup water. Cover the pan and continue cooking, tossing occasionally, until the carrots are tender and the liquids have reduced to a glaze, about 30 minutes. Add the honey, orange juice, soy sauce, and cup water. Cover the pan and continue cooking, tossing occasionally, until the carrots are tender and the liquids have reduced to a glaze, about 30 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat and toss with the sesame oil, mint, and sesame seeds. Taste for seasoning and adjust the salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Remove from the heat and toss with the sesame oil, mint, and sesame seeds. Taste for seasoning and adjust the salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Skordalia-Garlic Mashed Potatoes I n its homeland of Greece, n its homeland of Greece, skordalia blurs the distinctions between sauce and condiment, between condiment and side dish, between hot and room-temperature food. Whatever it is, skordalia can become an addictive replacement for ordinary mashed potatoes. The dominant flavors are of potato, olive oil, raw garlic, and vinegar; the combination is at once sensual and primitive. skordalia blurs the distinctions between sauce and condiment, between condiment and side dish, between hot and room-temperature food. Whatever it is, skordalia can become an addictive replacement for ordinary mashed potatoes. The dominant flavors are of potato, olive oil, raw garlic, and vinegar; the combination is at once sensual and primitive.

Don't try to take shortcuts by using a food processor instead of ricing the potatoes and then whipping in the garlic and oil by hand. The potatoes will turn gummy instead of remaining starchy, and the garlic will taste too strong.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces Kosher salt 4 garlic cloves, minced and then mashed with teaspoon salt to a paste cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 5 teaspoons champagne vinegar (or high-quality white wine vinegar) Freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the potatoes in a saucepan, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to overcook them, or they will become waterlogged. Put the potatoes in a saucepan, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to overcook them, or they will become waterlogged.

2. Drain, return the potatoes to the pan, and cook over medium heat tossing a few times until dry, about 5 minutes. Drain, return the potatoes to the pan, and cook over medium heat tossing a few times until dry, about 5 minutes.

3. While the potatoes are still warm, push them through a ricer into a large bowl. (Don't let them cool, or they'll be too gummy to push through the ricer.) Beat in the garlic and olive oil. Add the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature. While the potatoes are still warm, push them through a ricer into a large bowl. (Don't let them cool, or they'll be too gummy to push through the ricer.) Beat in the garlic and olive oil. Add the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Versatile b.u.t.termilk Mashed Potatoes b.u.t.termilk contributes a lightly acid contrast to the rich influence of b.u.t.ter and cream in these straightforward mashed potatoes, but use whole milk if that's what you want. Mashed potatoes are among the most adaptable of all side dishes. Two short variations follow the master recipe. We like the lemony mashed potatoes with braised lamb or with grilled tuna; when we're having steak, we usually opt for the roasted garlic version. contrast to the rich influence of b.u.t.ter and cream in these straightforward mashed potatoes, but use whole milk if that's what you want. Mashed potatoes are among the most adaptable of all side dishes. Two short variations follow the master recipe. We like the lemony mashed potatoes with braised lamb or with grilled tuna; when we're having steak, we usually opt for the roasted garlic version.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces Kosher salt cup heavy cream cup b.u.t.termilk 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter at room temperature, cut into 4 pieces Freshly ground black pepper

1. Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to overcook them, or they will become waterlogged. Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to overcook them, or they will become waterlogged.

2. Drain, return the potatoes to the pan, and cook over medium heat, tossing a few times until dry, about 5 minutes. Drain, return the potatoes to the pan, and cook over medium heat, tossing a few times until dry, about 5 minutes.

3. While the potatoes are still warm, crush them with a potato masher. Alternatively, you can push them through a ricer into a bowl; just don't let them cool, or they'll be too gummy to push through the ricer. While the potatoes are still warm, crush them with a potato masher. Alternatively, you can push them through a ricer into a bowl; just don't let them cool, or they'll be too gummy to push through the ricer.

4. Combine the cream and b.u.t.termilk in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat just to the point of scalding; do not boil. Whisk the b.u.t.ter and the scalded cream mixture into the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Combine the cream and b.u.t.termilk in a small saucepan over medium heat. Heat just to the point of scalding; do not boil. Whisk the b.u.t.ter and the scalded cream mixture into the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Lemon Mashed Potatoes Add 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest to the saucepan when heating the cream and b.u.t.termilk. Whisk 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice into the potatoes along with the b.u.t.ter and the cream mixture in Step 4. If you're inclined to want more lemon flavor, increase the amounts of lemon zest and lemon juice cautiously. A subtle taste of lemon can become an overpowering one quite quickly. The only downside to adding lemon to mashed potatoes is that the taste soon fades. If you want to restore the lemon flavor in leftovers, whisk in freshly squeezed lemon juice just before serving.

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes For a strong flavor of raw garlic, go to Skordalia (page 106), but for a subtler, sweeter garlic flavor, mash cup Roasted Garlic (page 119) into a paste. Whisk the paste into the potatoes after adding the b.u.t.ter in Step 4.

Sweet Potato Mash Sweet potatoes are a deliciously sugary tuber that puts in a brief appearance around Christmas. Maybe if they weren't usually served drowned in syrup, they wouldn't disappear for the rest of the year. Mashed sweet potatoes are just the right complement for pork and chicken, and leftovers can be used to thicken soup. A sweet potato mash also requires far less fat to bring up the flavor than conventional potatoes, an advantage if you're watching your weight. I've included orange juice in my recipe to provide an acidic citrus accent rather than to sweeten an already sugary vegetable. If you're unfamiliar with the selection and care of sweet potatoes, please read Sweet Potato Notes following this recipe. sugary tuber that puts in a brief appearance around Christmas. Maybe if they weren't usually served drowned in syrup, they wouldn't disappear for the rest of the year. Mashed sweet potatoes are just the right complement for pork and chicken, and leftovers can be used to thicken soup. A sweet potato mash also requires far less fat to bring up the flavor than conventional potatoes, an advantage if you're watching your weight. I've included orange juice in my recipe to provide an acidic citrus accent rather than to sweeten an already sugary vegetable. If you're unfamiliar with the selection and care of sweet potatoes, please read Sweet Potato Notes following this recipe.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

3 orange sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds), scrubbed 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter at room temperature, and cut into 4 pieces cup freshly squeezed orange juice teaspoon minced fresh ginger Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Set the potatoes in a roasting pan. Roast until they're very soft and the tips are beginning to darken, about 1 hour. Set the potatoes in a roasting pan. Roast until they're very soft and the tips are beginning to darken, about 1 hour.

3. Either wait until the potatoes are cool enough to handle with your bare hands, or use a dish towel to hold them. Cut them in half and scoop the flesh into a food processor. Add the b.u.t.ter, orange juice, and ginger; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Either wait until the potatoes are cool enough to handle with your bare hands, or use a dish towel to hold them. Cut them in half and scoop the flesh into a food processor. Add the b.u.t.ter, orange juice, and ginger; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

SWEET POTATO NOTESIn recent years, finding true sweet-fleshed sweet potatoes has become a little more complicated than it used to be. Chances are just about any fresh tuber labeled "sweet potato" will in fact be one, but there are a few facts to bear in mind when making your selection. Sweet potatoes are often available in several different varieties, in a range of colors from pale orange to a deep red-orange. As a rule of thumb, the deeper the color, the sweeter the potato.In many parts of the country, especially the South, people use the terms "sweet potato" and "yam" interchangeably. The vegetable that appears in a can of "candied yams" is an orange sweet potato. Nevertheless, sweet potatoes and true yams are two entirely different vegetables. Real yams are bigger, harder, and have darker skins than sweet potatoes, and they are not at all sweet. They are a vital staple in many parts of Africa and Latin America, both as a thickener for soups and stews and as a dish in their own right. It used to be that yams were sold only in markets catering to Latin and African populations, but now both kinds of tubers are often found in well-stocked produce departments. True yams have a bland flavor, which makes them a great foil for hot, spicy sauces, but a poor subst.i.tute in sweet potato recipes, which depend on a sweet-fleshed tuber.Supermarket labeling is often inaccurate. If you're undecided as to whether to purchase a particular orange tuber for a recipe, ask if it's sweet. There are no sweet yams.Whatever their color, sweet potatoes bruise more easily than regular potatoes and care should be taken in their handling. Use the same criteria for purchasing sweet potatoes as you would regular potatoes. They should be firm, without bruises, soft spots, or "eyes. " Store them as you would regular potatoes (i.e., no refrigeration) in a cool, dry place with plenty of air circulating around them, but bear in mind that they have a much shorter storage life than potatoes-use them within a few days of purchase.

Crisp Shredded Potato Cakes with Creme Fraiche Y ou could probably walk from ou could probably walk from Paris to Krakow and never stray beyond hailing distance of a home where potato pancakes are eaten. If the citizens of any region eat potatoes, there's a good chance they have a recipe for potato pancakes. My two favorites are pommes Anna and rosti, from France and Switzerland respectively. For pommes Anna, several layers of thinly sliced potatoes overlap to build up the cake; rosti, on the other hand, are fas.h.i.+oned from one thin crisp layer of matchstick potatoes. Paris to Krakow and never stray beyond hailing distance of a home where potato pancakes are eaten. If the citizens of any region eat potatoes, there's a good chance they have a recipe for potato pancakes. My two favorites are pommes Anna and rosti, from France and Switzerland respectively. For pommes Anna, several layers of thinly sliced potatoes overlap to build up the cake; rosti, on the other hand, are fas.h.i.+oned from one thin crisp layer of matchstick potatoes.

The potato cakes in this recipe are based on rosti. No flour or eggs are used to bind the potatoes; the starch in the potatoes themselves holds the pancakes together. The flavors of b.u.t.ter and potatoes come through slightly more strongly than they would otherwise. Besides serving these as a side dish, I sometimes use them as an exquisitely crisp base for a stew, or pair them with smoked salmon for brunch.