Jane Grigson's Fish Book Part 2

You can serve the sauce as it is, but I prefer to smooth it further in the blender. A few short bursts is enough, leaving plenty of speckled interest. Reheat the sauce gently. This sauce is served warm rather than boiling-hot.

EGG AND b.u.t.tER SAUCES.

SAUCE HOLLANDAISE AND DERIVATIVES.

I can never decide which gives me greater pleasure making a hollandaise sauce, which is in effect a hot mayonnaise, or eating it. Its origins are elusive but one thing is certain: it is not Dutch at all, but French. Sometimes it is called sauce Isigny, a genuflection to the hometown of France's best b.u.t.ter.

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar3 tablespoons water12 white peppercorns3 large egg yolks250 g (8 oz) unsalted or lightly salted b.u.t.tersalt, lemon juice Boil the first three ingredients down to a tablespoon of liquid. Strain into either a pudding basin or the top pan of a double boiler. When cool, beat in the yolks. Stand the basin, or top pan, over a pan of barely simmering water. Keep the heat steady, being careful not to overheat. Now add the b.u.t.ter in chips, beating them in with a wooden spoon gradually. Or, and this works well, melt the b.u.t.ter and beat it in as if you were making mayonnaise; you can do this off the heat if you like, so long as both egg yolks and b.u.t.ter are warm.

When the sauce is very thick, add a final seasoning of salt and lemon juice. If you have to keep it waiting, turn it into a tepid tepid bowl or jug or sauceboat and stand it in a pan of bowl or jug or sauceboat and stand it in a pan of tepid tepid water. Overheating at this point can curdle the best hollandaise. If at any moment you think the hollandaise is overheating, plunge the base of the bowl or pan into cold water. water. Overheating at this point can curdle the best hollandaise. If at any moment you think the hollandaise is overheating, plunge the base of the bowl or pan into cold water.

Should the sauce curdle, try whisking in a tablespoon of ice cold water. If this doesn't work, break a fresh egg, put the yolk into a clean basin and beat in the curdled sauce gradually. It doesn't take long, so don't give way to despair.

CAVIARE SAUCE Fold 34 tablespoons of pressed caviare into the finished mousseline sauce, Fold 34 tablespoons of pressed caviare into the finished mousseline sauce, see see below. Adjust the seasoning. For the finest fish sole, turbot, trout, really fresh ba.s.s, John Dory. below. Adjust the seasoning. For the finest fish sole, turbot, trout, really fresh ba.s.s, John Dory.

CUc.u.mBER HOLLANDAISE See See Grilled pompano with cuc.u.mber hollandaise, Grilled pompano with cuc.u.mber hollandaise, p. 62 p. 62.

MALTESE SAUCE Stir in the grated rind of a blood orange, and use the orange juice instead of lemon for the final seasoning. A Seville orange makes an even better flavour. Delicious with firm white fish. Stir in the grated rind of a blood orange, and use the orange juice instead of lemon for the final seasoning. A Seville orange makes an even better flavour. Delicious with firm white fish.

MOUSSELINE SAUCE Whip up 125 ml (4 fl oz) double cream. Fold into the sauce just before serving, and readjust the seasoning. Good with a solid fish like salmon. Whip up 125 ml (4 fl oz) double cream. Fold into the sauce just before serving, and readjust the seasoning. Good with a solid fish like salmon.

SAUCE TRIANON Use lemon juice (1 tablespoon) and sherry medium-dry (2 tablespoons) instead of vinegar. Use lemon juice (1 tablespoon) and sherry medium-dry (2 tablespoons) instead of vinegar.

SAUCE BeARNAISE.

This is a nineteenth-century sauce, invented by a chef at the Pavilion Henri IV at St Germain-en-Laye, and named for that great French king, who came from Bearn, close to the Basque country, on the Spanish border. This chef had the idea of spicing the egg and b.u.t.ter innocence of hollandaise with a reduction of wine, tarragon, shallot and wine vinegar, seasoned with plenty of coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper, a simple addition, perhaps, but it quite changes the character of the sauce. Serve with grilled fish of fine flavour and substance salmon, sunfish, tuna, pompano, large mackerel.

1 heaped tablespoon chopped shallot2 tablespoons chopped tarragon and chervil4 tablespoons tarragon vinegar4 tablespoons white winegood grating of black pepperegg yolks and b.u.t.ter, as for hollandaise*1 tablespoon chopped tarragon and chervil for finis.h.i.+ngpinch of saltpinch of cayenne pepper Put the shallot, tarragon and chervil, vinegar, wine and black pepper into a small pan. Boil down until about 2 tablespoons of liquid is left. Put into a large pudding basin, and when cool add the egg yolks. Continue as for hollandaise sauce. Strain, and whisk in about a tablespoon of chopped tarragon and chervil. Add salt and cayenne. Serve in a warmed sauceboat.

SAUCE CHORON This is the most famous variation of the bearnaise sauce, and is called after a Normandy chef, Choron, who came from Caen. It is usually served with grilled meat or poultry, but goes very well with fish; This is the most famous variation of the bearnaise sauce, and is called after a Normandy chef, Choron, who came from Caen. It is usually served with grilled meat or poultry, but goes very well with fish; see see Bar en croute, Bar en croute, p. 353 p. 353.

Make a bearnaise, above. Then flavour the sauce to taste with seasoning and about 3 tablespoons of tomato puree (preferably home-made), adding it gradually. If you feel at this point that the consistency could be improved, add 2 good tablespoons of whipped cream which will make the sauce bulkier and lighter.

OTHER HOT SAUCES.

SAUCE a L'AMeRICAINE This sauce comes, in spite of its name, from southern France. So it is important to use olive oil and garlic, and to liven the tomatoes up with sugar and black pepper, should you happen to be cooking in a less sunny climate. There is no subst.i.tute for cognac, apart from the other grape brandies.

In its cla.s.sic version, this sauce is cooked with the dish in the style of a stew (see Lobster a l'americaine, Lobster a l'americaine, p. 213 p. 213.) But if you can only buy ready-boiled lobster, or if you serve the sauce with a fish that can't stand the fierce reduction, for instance huss or hake or quenelles of whiting, here is a recipe allowing for this: 750 g (1 lb) tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped150 ml (5 fl oz) olive oil500 g (1 lb) cheap white fishseasoned flour125 g (4 oz) chopped shallot or or mild onion mild onion125 g (4 oz) chopped carrot1 large clove garlic, crushed75 ml (2 fl oz) cognacsh.e.l.l of lobster, crab or prawn300 ml (10 fl oz) dry white wine150 ml (5 fl oz) strong beef stocksalt, pepper, cayenne pepper, sugartarragon and chervil or parsley1 good tablespoon b.u.t.ter Cook the tomatoes to a thick puree in half the olive oil. Cut the white fish into large cubes, turn them in seasoned flour and fry in the rest of the olive oil with the shallot, carrot and garlic. When the fish is lightly browned, add the warmest cognac and set it alight. Turn the mixture, so that the flames last as long as possible. Add lobster, crab or prawn sh.e.l.l, the wine, stock and tomatoes. Season with plenty of black pepper and teaspoon of salt. Cook vigorously for half an hour, or until the sauce looks thick rather than watery. Remove as much sh.e.l.l as possible, then briefly liquidize. Correct the seasoning, add herbs, and reheat. Stir in the tablespoon of b.u.t.ter, pour over the cooked fish and serve.

If you are using ready-boiled lobster, reheat it in the sauce before adding the b.u.t.ter.

NOTE As with sauce aurore*, the important thing is to use real tomatoes. By all means help the flavour with a little tomato concentrate, if it seems necessary, but never make tomato concentrate a subst.i.tute for tomatoes. As with sauce aurore*, the important thing is to use real tomatoes. By all means help the flavour with a little tomato concentrate, if it seems necessary, but never make tomato concentrate a subst.i.tute for tomatoes.

SAUCE BERCY.

This intense concentration of onions, wine and meat essence usually accompanies plainly-cooked food such as grilled steak or liver. But if the juices from a foil-baked fish are subst.i.tuted for meat essence, it goes equally well with ba.s.s, bream or salmon.

1 heaped tablespoon chopped shallot or or onion onion1 level tablespoon b.u.t.ter150 ml (5 fl oz) white winesalt, pepper, lemon juicechopped parsley About 25 minutes before the fish is cooked, put the shallot or onion and the b.u.t.ter into a small heavy pan. Cook gently until golden and transparent. Add the wine and boil hard until there is about a couple of tablespoons of liquid left. Remove from the heat. Transfer the cooked fish to a warm serving plate. Pour the juices from the foil, about 300 ml (10 fl oz) of fish fumet, into the onion and wine mixture. Reheat, and correct the seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. The amount required is bound to vary according to the type and quant.i.ty of seasoning put into the foil package with the fish. Add some chopped parsley and serve very hot in a separate sauceboat.

Remember that this is intended to be a concentrated sauce, to be eaten in small quant.i.ties. If the juices in the foil were too abundant and watery though this is unlikely the sauce must be reduced a second time before the final seasoning.

NOTE A more copious amount of sauce can be provided by adding up to 150 ml (5 fl oz) of double cream or thicken with beurre manie*. A more copious amount of sauce can be provided by adding up to 150 ml (5 fl oz) of double cream or thicken with beurre manie*.

BEURRE BLANC.

The chateau of La Goulaine, south of Nantes, has a reputation for Muscadet, the wine of the district. It also has a reputation for being the birthplace of beurre blanc, one of the best of fish sauces. The first reputation is well-bestowed; I am not quite so sure about the second. A love of good food is often garnished with undeclared fairy tales. But this one has plausibility.

One day towards the turn of the century, so the story goes, the Marquis of Goulaine's cook, Clemence, was preparing a dinner party. She asked a helper to get on with the bearnaise, while she attended to other things. When everything was dished up, Clemence glanced at the bearnaise and realized that the egg yolks had been forgotten. No time to make a fresh sauce; the mistake which tasted surprisingly good was sent up. After dinner Clemence was summoned to the dining-room. She arrived red-faced and ashamed, expecting trouble. Instead, the 'new sauce' was praised. She was asked to repeat the mistake many times, and when she left the chateau to open a restaurant at la Chebuette, a mile or two away on the banks of the Loire, her beurre blanc soon became a speciality of the region, from Nantes to Angers and Tours.

As you would expect, beurre blanc is served with shad, brochet and salmon from the Loire. Try it, too, with salt.w.a.ter fish such as turbot, sole, John Dory, brill and whiting. The fish should be poached in a half-wine, half-water court bouillon*, baked in foil, or braised. Not Not a sauce for fried fish. a sauce for fried fish.

The trick consists in not overheating the sauce, which is very much a last-minute sauce. The first time you make it, have a bowl of ice cubes handy for quickly cooling the base of the pan. Make a reduction of wine vinegar and shallots as for the bearnaise sauce*. Cut up 250 g (8 oz) b.u.t.ter, chilled until firm, into cubes. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter, bit by bit, keeping the heat very low; it should melt to a cream raise the pan from the stove to make sure it does not get too hot. Season to taste.

If you have a total collapse, don't despair. Beat a couple of egg yolks in a basin over a pan of simmering water, and add the b.u.t.ter/ shallot mixture gradually until you have the thicker and yellower sauce more usually known as hollandaise*.

SAUCE a LA CReOLE.

A tomato sauce made sweeter, and a little hotter, by the addition of peppers and a discreet seasoning of chillis.

250 g ( lb) chopped onion2 large stalks celery, chopped3 fresh red peppers, seeded, chopped or or 4 canned peppers 4 canned peppers1 small green chilli or or teaspoon crushed hot chilli flakes teaspoon crushed hot chilli flakes60 g (2 oz) b.u.t.ter1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) can of tomatoesthymesalt, pepperbasil Fry the onion, celery, peppers and chilli in the b.u.t.ter, gently at first until they begin to soften, then a little more strongly until they brown lightly. Pour in the contents of the can of tomatoes, add a sprig or two of thyme, plenty of freshly ground black pepper and only a little salt (because the sauce is to be reduced). Leave the lid off the pan so that the liquid has a chance to evaporate, and cook until the sauce becomes a stew.

Remove the sprigs of thyme, check the seasoning and add more salt or chilli flakes if required. Add a final chopping of fresh basil.

Like the marinara sauce*, sauce a la creole makes an excellent basis for fish stews. When the flavour is to your liking, add some lightly-browned fish such as turbot, brill, hake, shark, monkfish, or squid, and cook for another 5 or 10 minutes. (See Sunfish a la creole Sunfish a la creole p. 474 p. 474.) If using mussels or clams, open them in a large saucepan and remove the sh.e.l.ls, before adding them to the sauce stir in the strained sh.e.l.lfish liquor too.

THREE GOOSEBERRY SAUCES.

These gooseberry sauces and the sorrel ones below have a remarkably similar taste, as Elizabeth David remarks in French Provincial Cooking French Provincial Cooking. The two acidites are interchangeable. I must confess, though, to never having eaten gooseberry sauce with salmon, because when the fruit is at its small, acid-green best, salmon is unpleasantly expensive. Mackerel, at their finest, arrive with the first gooseberries; n.o.body can complain at the price of either, though Parson Woodforde, the greediest of Norfolk parsons in the eighteenth century, did complain, in his diary, when the spring was late and he had to eat the first mackerel of the season without gooseberry sauce.

In spite of this, it is the French and not the English who christened this hardy, fruit groseille a maquereau groseille a maquereau which is odd, at first sight, because the gooseberry grows super-abundantly in the British Isles (and indeed as far north as the Arctic Circle), and gooseberry sauces are more common in our old cookery books than in French ones. Perhaps the reason is that we use gooseberries in so many ways, for pies or tarts, for boiled puddings and for jam, whereas in France it is largely a question of gooseberries with mackerel. which is odd, at first sight, because the gooseberry grows super-abundantly in the British Isles (and indeed as far north as the Arctic Circle), and gooseberry sauces are more common in our old cookery books than in French ones. Perhaps the reason is that we use gooseberries in so many ways, for pies or tarts, for boiled puddings and for jam, whereas in France it is largely a question of gooseberries with mackerel.

1. The first sauce is made by subst.i.tuting 250 g (8 oz) gooseberries for the sorrel leaves in the recipe for sorrel sauce (see p. 35 p. 35). Strain the puree through a sieve and add the boiled cream and the fish stock or juice.

2. The second sauce requires: 500 g (1 lb) gooseberries30 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter1 egg or or 3 tablespoons bechamel sauce 3 tablespoons bechamel sauce*1 teaspoon sugarground ginger or or freshly grated nutmeg freshly grated nutmeg Top and tail the gooseberries (it is easiest to use scissors for this). Cook over a low heat with the b.u.t.ter, until soft enough to put through a sieve or mouli-legumes mouli-legumes. Beat in either the egg or the sauce. Reheat without boiling, and season with the sugar, and the ginger or nutmeg, to taste.

3. The third sauce includes fennel: 500 g (1 lb) gooseberries30 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons bechamel sauce*1 heaped dessertspoon of fennel leaves, choppednutmeg, salt, pepper, lemon juice, sugar Prepare and cook gooseberries as described above until one taken from the pan will give between the fingers without collapsing completely. Drain, and set aside while you make a bechamel sauce in the usual way. Let the sauce reduce, simmering, up to the consistency of thick cream. Mix in the gooseberries and the chopped fennel, and add the seasonings to taste: the sugar should not be added unless the gooseberries are very young and tart. Reheat gently.

The gooseberries may be sieved into the sauce, instead of being left whole.

MARINARA OR ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE.

This is the basis for fish stews and soups, and for pasta sauces. One of the girls in our family once worked in Rome. The first time she came home on holiday, she pushed me affably from the stove. 'I'm going to show you how to make a proper tomato sauce,' she announced. 'First, you must put in some chopped carrot and second, you mustn't keep stirring it once it comes to the boil.'

1 medium onion, chopped1 medium carrot, chopped1 generous tablespoon olive oil1 clove garlic, crushed1 kg (2 lb) tomatoes, peeled and chopped or or 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) can of Italian tomatoes 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) can of Italian tomatoessalt, pepper Brown the onion and carrot lightly in the oil. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to the boil, stirring. Leave to simmer, uncovered, until the sauce reduces to a fairly thick stew at least 30 minutes. Sieve or not, as you please.

A gla.s.s of red wine may be added to the ingredients above. And the sauce may be finished by the addition of a nice lump of b.u.t.ter and some cayenne or chilli flakes, but be careful not to overdo them.

This is one of the most useful of all fish sauces. Small fish, squid, shrimps or prawns, clams and mussels can all be added to it, or cooked in it, to make the most satisfactory fish stews. Dilute with fish stock, add some sh.e.l.lfish, and you have a delicious soup.

ROMESCO SAUCE.

One of the most famous sauces of Spanish cookery, from the province of Tarragona where the small hot Romesco peppers are grown. In this country I would recommend you buy fresh red chillis and hang them up to dry in your kitchen. The other essential ingredient except of course for tomatoes is hazelnuts, which add texture and their oil to the sauce.

2 huge tomatoes, Marmande or Eshkol type3 fine fat cloves garlic24 hazelnuts, blanched or or 12 each almonds and hazelnuts 12 each almonds and hazelnuts2 large red home-dried chillis, seededsalt, pepper250 ml (8 fl oz) olive oil2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or or 1 each wine vinegar and dry sherry 1 each wine vinegar and dry sherrychopped parsley Bake the whole tomatoes and whole, peeled garlic in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. After 10 minutes add the nuts and chillis. Transfer to the blender, sc.r.a.ping the tomato pulp free of its skin, and blend to a puree, adding the seasoning and the olive oil gradually to make a smooth sauce. Finally stir in the vinegar or vinegar and sherry, and correct the seasoning.

SAMPHIRE SAUCE.

This recipe comes from Alan Davidson's North Atlantic Seafood North Atlantic Seafood; For 500 g (1 lb) fish, take 375 g (12 oz) prepared samphire, well washed and with the hard bits of stalk near the roots cut off, and cook it for 10 minutes in a covered pot of 4 tablespoons water. Drain it and use an electric blender to turn it into a puree, incorporating 90 g (3 oz) b.u.t.ter in it. The puree is then heated and poured over the fish as a sauce. It has a marvellously bright green colour any other so-called green sauce would go even greener with envy and a delicious flavour. But it is quite salty, so on no account add salt.

TWO SORREL SAUCES.

There was a time, twenty or so years ago, that the French were leaving their countryside in large numbers, leaving behind them houses they could not sell. Many a time I remember walking along a lane, and seeing a cl.u.s.ter of farm buildings over a hedge. There would be no barks to greet one's arrival, no flutter and squawk of fowls on the dung heap. One would see nothing hanging from the nails by the kitchen door. Pa.s.sing by the house, one would come to the kitchen garden, overgrown perhaps but undeniably there. Pus.h.i.+ng the gate open, freeing it from the overhanging rose, one would stumble over a l.u.s.ty patch of sorrel, placed where it was easy to grab a handful to flavour the evening's soup, or to make a sauce for the fish brought home from the market. How grateful that clear flavour is in the spring, sharp as lemon juice to one's tired winter taste.

This recipe comes from Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking French Provincial Cooking.

1 large handful sorrel leaves (approx. 125 g/4 oz)30 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter125 ml (4 fl oz) each single and double cream (250 ml/8 fl oz in all)stock or juice from cooking the fishsalt, pepper Remove the toughest stems from the sorrel. Wash and melt it to a puree in the b.u.t.ter. This takes no more than three or four minutes. In a saucepan, bring the cream to the boil, stir in the sorrel and 3 or 4 tablespoons of stock from cooking the fish. If the fish has been fried or grilled, add some water to the pan juices, boil up well and use them instead of stock. Season to taste. Serve with mackerel, salmon, white fish, shad, pike.

The next recipe came from Mrs Stevenson when she was at the Horn of Plenty near Tavistock in Devon. She served it with the delicious Tamar salmon.

about 30 leaves of sorrel, 1 large handful30 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter500 g (1 lb) unsalted b.u.t.ter4 egg yolks2 tablespoons watersalt, lemon juice Make a sorrel puree as above. Put the unsalted b.u.t.ter into a saucepan, cut in chunks, and bring to the boil over a gentle heat. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and water in a large pudding basin. Set the basin over a pan of barely simmering water. Keep stirring the yolks, and as the b.u.t.ter comes to a frothing boil, pour a little of it on to the yolks. Go on beating a wooden spoon is best for this and add the b.u.t.ter slowly: the mayonnaise process. As the sauce thickens the b.u.t.ter may be added more rapidly. Watch the water underneath it should not boil.

When the sauce coats the spoon, take the basin from the pan and stir in the sorrel puree to taste. Add salt and lemon juice if required.

NOTE Of course there is no reason why the sorrel puree shouldn't be added to the conventionally made hollandaise sauce*. This method, though, is quicker. Of course there is no reason why the sorrel puree shouldn't be added to the conventionally made hollandaise sauce*. This method, though, is quicker.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE.

Skin, seed and chop 2 large tomatoes or 500 g (1 lb) of well-flavoured smaller tomatoes. Cook a small chopped onion and 2 chopped cloves of garlic in a little olive oil. Stir in the tomato, raise the heat. If you want a Latin-American accent, add a chopped, seeded chilli and a final seasoning of coriander. If you prefer the Italian style, omit the chilli and use basil as the final herb. Salt, pepper, sugar as necessary. Cook as briefly as possible so that you concentrate the flavour without losing freshness and texture.

GOLD SAUCES.

MAYONNAISE.

I believe that the best mayonnaise, in particular if it is to go with cold fish, should be made with olive oil. A light-flavoured oil mayonnaise emphasizes the fruity flavour but an oil tasting of olives. When strong flavourings such as curry powder are to be added, corn or groundnut oils may be subst.i.tuted. Never spoil mayonnaise with malt vinegar. Red and white wine vinegar, tarragon vinegar or, most usually, lemon juice are the sharpeners to use.

Mayonnaise is a sauce that rarely fails if you take reasonable precautions beforehand the ingredients should be at least at room temperature.

1 large or or 2 standard egg yolks 2 standard egg yolkswine vinegar or or lemon juice lemon juice1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)150 ml (5 fl oz) light olive oilsalt, pepper, herbs, etc.

HAND OR ELECTRIC BEATER METHOD Warm the bowl and spoon or beater with hot water, then dry. Quickly put in the egg yolk with a teaspoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and mustard if appropriate to the dish. Beat thoroughly together, then add the oil, drop by drop at first, then more steadily as the mixture thickens. When the oil is absorbed, add vinegar or lemon juice to taste, seasonings and herbs. Warm the bowl and spoon or beater with hot water, then dry. Quickly put in the egg yolk with a teaspoon of vinegar or lemon juice, and mustard if appropriate to the dish. Beat thoroughly together, then add the oil, drop by drop at first, then more steadily as the mixture thickens. When the oil is absorbed, add vinegar or lemon juice to taste, seasonings and herbs.

BLENDER METHOD Use two yolks or one whole large egg. Put the egg into a warmed blender with the vinegar or lemon juice and mustard. Turn to top speed, having covered the blender. After 10 seconds, remove the central cover of the lid and gradually pour in the oil and seasonings. On account of the very high speed, you can put in the oil more rapidly from the start, though it is prudent to go gently at first. Use two yolks or one whole large egg. Put the egg into a warmed blender with the vinegar or lemon juice and mustard. Turn to top speed, having covered the blender. After 10 seconds, remove the central cover of the lid and gradually pour in the oil and seasonings. On account of the very high speed, you can put in the oil more rapidly from the start, though it is prudent to go gently at first.

REMEDIES FOR CURDLED MAYONNAISE.

(1) The moment you suspect curdling, whisk in a tablespoon of boiling water. This is often enough to bring the sauce back.

(2) Put another egg yolk into a clean bowl and add the curdled mixture drop by drop at first, then the remainder of the oil, plus extra to bring the quant.i.ty up to 250 ml (8 fl oz).

(3) Put a tablespoon of Dijon mustard into a clean, warmed bowl, instead of another egg yolk, then continue with method 2. This is handy to know if you are out of eggs, and the dish will stand the extra mustard flavour.

AILLOLI AND AILLADE Ailloli Ailloli, the garlic mayonnaise from Provence, gives its name to the great spread of cold food for which that part of France is so famous. Salt cod and other fish provide the centrepiece (see p. 100 p. 100). The sauce can quite well accompany the salt fish in simpler combinations or even alone; though I think a modifying salad of some kind is a good idea.

up to 8 cloves garlicsalt2 egg yolks300 ml (10 fl oz) Provencal olive oilpepperlemon juice Crush the garlic with a little salt in a mortar, or blender. (The first time you make the recipe start with 4 cloves of garlic; when everyone has got used to the idea, work up gradually to 8.) Add the egg yolks and finish the mayonnaise with the rest of the ingredients.

The unexpected ingredients of aillade aillade, another garlic mayonnaise, are hazelnuts and walnuts. To me, this is the ideal sauce for a simpler arrangement of cold fish: 8 large sh.e.l.led hazelnuts8 sh.e.l.led walnuts36 cloves garlicsalt2 egg yolks300 ml (10 fl oz) Provencal olive oilpepperlemon juice Grill the hazelnuts lightly, until the skins can easily be rubbed off; pour boiling water over the walnuts, and remove their skins. Crush the nuts with the garlic and a little salt in a mortar or blender, and continue with the mayonnaise in the usual way.

AVOCADO SAUCE Avocado makes a good sauce for salmon and salmon trout in particular, though it also goes well with crab and lobster. Avocado makes a good sauce for salmon and salmon trout in particular, though it also goes well with crab and lobster.

2 ripe avocadosjuice of 1 small lemon1 large garlic clove, crushed300 ml (10 fl oz) soured creamsalt, pepper2 spring onions, chopped (see (see recipe recipe) Peel, stone and mash the avocados with the lemon juice and garlic. Mix in the cream gradually. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Finally mix in the onion, if the sauce is to be served with cold fish. If the sauce is for hot fish, omit the onion and warm the basin over a pan of simmering water until the sauce is reasonably hot, but nowhere near boiling point.

CURRY MAYONNAISE This sauce, which is simple to make, goes well with the strong flavours of fish like pickled herrings. Add 1 teaspoon of finely grated onion and 1 teaspoon of curry powder or paste to the 2 egg yolks of the basic mayonnaise ingredients (which, in this case, may be made with corn or groundnut oil) and finish in the usual way. This sauce, which is simple to make, goes well with the strong flavours of fish like pickled herrings. Add 1 teaspoon of finely grated onion and 1 teaspoon of curry powder or paste to the 2 egg yolks of the basic mayonnaise ingredients (which, in this case, may be made with corn or groundnut oil) and finish in the usual way.

In Scandinavia, a curry mayonnaise made with curry powder and an equal amount of chopped chutney is served with prawn dishes.

GASTRONOME MAYONNAISE Mix 150 ml (5 fl oz) mayonnaise with 100 ml (3 fl oz) soured cream, 1 level tablespoon each of tomato paste and chopped tarragon, plus 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Serve this with cold fish, especially turbot and sole. This recipe comes from Bengt Petersen's Mix 150 ml (5 fl oz) mayonnaise with 100 ml (3 fl oz) soured cream, 1 level tablespoon each of tomato paste and chopped tarragon, plus 1 teaspoonful tarragon vinegar. Serve this with cold fish, especially turbot and sole. This recipe comes from Bengt Petersen's Delicious Fish Dishes Delicious Fish Dishes.

GREEN MAYONNAISE Every cookery book gives sauce remoulade, sauce tartare, sauce ravigote all versions of mayonnaise. These sauces use herbs and sharp pickles, such as gherkins, anchovies or capers, with the occasional spice of some raw, chopped onion or shallot; the kind of sauce that each cook can alter to her own taste. Every cookery book gives sauce remoulade, sauce tartare, sauce ravigote all versions of mayonnaise. These sauces use herbs and sharp pickles, such as gherkins, anchovies or capers, with the occasional spice of some raw, chopped onion or shallot; the kind of sauce that each cook can alter to her own taste.

Here is a less commonly encountered herb mayonnaise, a green sauce of distinction. As a rule it is served with salmon, salmon trout and sh.e.l.lfish, but it goes with cold white fish too, turbot or John Dory, for instance.

According to the resources of your garden or neighbourhood, a.s.semble one or other of these herb mixtures: either15 g ( oz) each parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, sorrel, salad burnet30 g (1 oz) spinach and watercress leavesor30 g (1 oz) each parsley, tarragon, chervil, chives45 g (1 oz) each spinach and watercress leaves Make your basic mayonnaise. Blanch the herbs for 2 minutes in boiling water. Pour out into a sieve and run under the cold tap. Leave to drain. Press the last moisture out, and pound to a paste either with pestle and mortar, or in a liquidizer with a little of the mayonnaise. Mix into the mayonnaise just before serving.

JELLIED MAYONNAISE FOR CHAUDFROID Instead of coating a cold, poached fish with aspic jelly*, jellied mayonnaise may be used instead. The mayonnaise is made in the usual way, using 300 ml (10 fl oz) of oil and 23 egg yolks. Fold in gently 150 ml (5 fl oz) of firm aspic jelly, or 150 ml (5 fl oz) water in which 8 g ( oz) gelatine has been dissolved, while the gelatine is on the point of setting but still liquid. Instead of coating a cold, poached fish with aspic jelly*, jellied mayonnaise may be used instead. The mayonnaise is made in the usual way, using 300 ml (10 fl oz) of oil and 23 egg yolks. Fold in gently 150 ml (5 fl oz) of firm aspic jelly, or 150 ml (5 fl oz) water in which 8 g ( oz) gelatine has been dissolved, while the gelatine is on the point of setting but still liquid. Use at once Use at once.

LIGHT MAYONNAISE Add 6090 ml (23 fl oz) soured cream to mayonnaise at the end of making it. Chopped green herbs, especially chives, are a good addition. Add 6090 ml (23 fl oz) soured cream to mayonnaise at the end of making it. Chopped green herbs, especially chives, are a good addition.

MALTESE MAYONNAISE Grate the rind of an orange, preferably a blood orange, into the bowl, before putting in the egg yolks with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Flavour at the end with the juice from the orange, and a little more lemon juice instead of vinegar, if extra sharpness is required. Good with cold white fish. Grate the rind of an orange, preferably a blood orange, into the bowl, before putting in the egg yolks with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Flavour at the end with the juice from the orange, and a little more lemon juice instead of vinegar, if extra sharpness is required. Good with cold white fish.

MUSTARD AND DILL MAYONNAISE The proportions for this superb Scandinavian sauce can be varied to suit your taste. The egg yolk may be omitted, in which case the sauce is a variant of vinaigrette. Serve with pickled salmon, trout or herring, boiled crab or lobster. The proportions for this superb Scandinavian sauce can be varied to suit your taste. The egg yolk may be omitted, in which case the sauce is a variant of vinaigrette. Serve with pickled salmon, trout or herring, boiled crab or lobster.

2 tablespoons French or German mustard1 tablespoon white sugar1 large egg yolk150 ml (5 fl oz) corn or or groundnut oil groundnut oil2 tablespoons wine vinegar1 generous teaspoon dill weedsalt, white pepper Beat the first three ingredients together, and finish the mayonnaise in the usual way.

PAPRIKA MAYONNAISE Flavour a basic mayonnaise with 1 level tablespoon of tomato concentrate, 1 tablespoon chilli sauce and a finely shredded red pepper. Flavour a basic mayonnaise with 1 level tablespoon of tomato concentrate, 1 tablespoon chilli sauce and a finely shredded red pepper.

PERNOD REMOULADE A piquant sauce good with many of the round fish grilled grey mullet, sea ba.s.s, John Dory, sea bream and with mackerel. A piquant sauce good with many of the round fish grilled grey mullet, sea ba.s.s, John Dory, sea bream and with mackerel.

basic mayonnaise1 dessertspoon chopped sweet-sour pickled cuc.u.mber1 dessertspoon each chopped parsley and tarragonabout 1 tablespoon Pernod Fold the other ingredients into the basic mayonnaise, using the above measurements as a guide only.

SAUCE RAVIGOTE Chop a handful of parsley, tarragon, watercress, chives, chervil and a thick slice of onion. Mix with a heaped teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a dessertspoon of drained capers and a chopped hard-boiled egg. Gradually mix in 3 or 4 tablespoons of olive oil, then wine vinegar to taste. Chopped anchovies and gherkins are often added as well as capers. Chop a handful of parsley, tarragon, watercress, chives, chervil and a thick slice of onion. Mix with a heaped teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a dessertspoon of drained capers and a chopped hard-boiled egg. Gradually mix in 3 or 4 tablespoons of olive oil, then wine vinegar to taste. Chopped anchovies and gherkins are often added as well as capers.

SAUCE TARTARE This is either a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette seasoned with shallots or spring onions, and This is either a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette seasoned with shallots or spring onions, and fines herbes fines herbes, plus capers and gherkins to taste. The sauce should be thick and speckled with these ingredients.

See individual sections for other kinds of mayonnaise, i.e. Anchoiade (Anchovy mayonnaise), Crab mayonnaise, Lobster mayonnaise. individual sections for other kinds of mayonnaise, i.e. Anchoiade (Anchovy mayonnaise), Crab mayonnaise, Lobster mayonnaise.

HORSERADISH SAUCE WITH FRESH WALNUTS.

One November at the turn of the century, the great chef Escoffier was invited to a shooting weekend in the Haute-Savoie. Sat.u.r.day lunch began with a dish of ombles-chevalier ombles-chevalier (a speciality of the lac du Bourget, in nearby Savoie) which had been cooked, and left to cool, in white wine from his host's own vineyard. The surprising thing was the sauce which accompanied the fish; it was made from horseradish, and the juicy fresh walnuts which are so delicious an item of French meals at that time of year. (a speciality of the lac du Bourget, in nearby Savoie) which had been cooked, and left to cool, in white wine from his host's own vineyard. The surprising thing was the sauce which accompanied the fish; it was made from horseradish, and the juicy fresh walnuts which are so delicious an item of French meals at that time of year.