Jane Grigson's Fish Book Part 4

This recipe comes from that wonderful book The Scots Kitchen The Scots Kitchen by F. Marian McNeill: 'Take six small rounds of b.u.t.tered toast, spread them with anchovy paste, arrange on a dish and keep hot. Melt two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, put in three tablespoons of cream and the raw yolks of three eggs, and stir over the fire until the mixture is a creamy ma.s.s.' (Don't boil, or you will have scrambled or curdled eggs.) 'Add a little finely-chopped parsley and a dash of cayenne. Heap on the rounds of toast and serve very hot.' I suggest you use anchovy b.u.t.ter instead of anchovy paste on b.u.t.tered toast by F. Marian McNeill: 'Take six small rounds of b.u.t.tered toast, spread them with anchovy paste, arrange on a dish and keep hot. Melt two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, put in three tablespoons of cream and the raw yolks of three eggs, and stir over the fire until the mixture is a creamy ma.s.s.' (Don't boil, or you will have scrambled or curdled eggs.) 'Add a little finely-chopped parsley and a dash of cayenne. Heap on the rounds of toast and serve very hot.' I suggest you use anchovy b.u.t.ter instead of anchovy paste on b.u.t.tered toast see see P. 49 P. 49.

Mrs Beeton suggests using 150 ml (5 fl oz) cream instead of b.u.t.ter and cream. In either case, double cream gives the best flavour and consistency.

ANGLER-FISH see see MONKFISH MONKFISH ARGENTINE see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SMELT SMELT

BLUEFISH & POMPANO.

Pomatomus saltatrix & Trachinotus carolinus [image]

In his North Atlantic Seafood North Atlantic Seafood, Alan Davidson joins these two fish together in one section although they are in fact of different species. The gracefully shaped bluefish, long, with a blue-green s.h.i.+ne on its grey body, comes in to the Atlantic coast of America by the million every summer. It is a most ferocious animal 'an animated chopping machine' of carnivorous and wasteful habits. Its progress through the sea is marked by the b.l.o.o.d.y remains of other fish which had the misfortune to cross its path.

It is quite a good eating fish, not very firm but fairly oily. This means it grills well, and needs rather positive flavours to go with it. The recipes for Herring baked with cuc.u.mber on p. 183 p. 183 and Red snapper creole on and Red snapper creole on p. 479 p. 479 can both be adapted to bluefish. can both be adapted to bluefish.

The pompano is one of America's most famous delicacies. It is also caught in the Mediterranean (this is the Trachinotus ovatus Trachinotus ovatus, or the round pompano), but the place to eat it is undeniably at Antoine's restaurant in New Orleans. As with bluefish, it is good baked or grilled with cuc.u.mber.

BLUEFISH BUSTAn.o.bY.

Many herring and mackerel recipes are suitable for bluefish. It is rich enough to take the sharpness of gooseberries, or the contrasting smoked flavour of bacon. In this recipe from the Long Island Sea Food Cook Book Long Island Sea Food Cook Book, by J. George Frederick, smoked ox tongue is used.

Serves 61 kg (3 lb) bluefish3 tablespoons mushroom juice gla.s.s Chablis or or other dry white wine other dry white winepinch of salt, pepper3 tablespoons tomato sauce1 tablespoon cooked smoked beef tongue, finely minced Clean and store the bluefish. Dry it and place in a b.u.t.tered ovenproof dish. Add mushroom juice (obtained by stewing mushrooms gently gently in b.u.t.ter so that they exude their moisture), the wine and seasoning. Cover with b.u.t.tered paper and put into a fairly hot oven (gas 5, 190 C/375 F) for half an hour. Pour off the juices into a pan, add the remaining ingredients to them, and boil for 2 minutes. Pour over the fish and serve. in b.u.t.ter so that they exude their moisture), the wine and seasoning. Cover with b.u.t.tered paper and put into a fairly hot oven (gas 5, 190 C/375 F) for half an hour. Pour off the juices into a pan, add the remaining ingredients to them, and boil for 2 minutes. Pour over the fish and serve.

GRILLED BLUEFISH.

Clean the fish, and bone it from the back, so that it opens out like a kipper. Brush with melted b.u.t.ter and put under the grill cut side up. When it is nearly done, turn it over and grill the other side.

Serve with melted b.u.t.ter sharpened with capers or lemon juice, or with pats of maitre d'hotel b.u.t.ter*. Mussel or oyster sauce can go with it, or a bearnaise*.

ANTOINE'S POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE One of the best known recipes for pompano was devised in New Orleans at the beginning of this century by the son of the Ma.r.s.eillais founder, Antoine Alciatore. The occasion was, I believe, the visit to that city by the great Brazilian balloonist, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Like the Alciatores, he was French by origin, and no doubt appreciated the fine contents of the papillotes which had puffed up in the oven to the shape of one of his own dirigibles.

The early 1900s were the era of paper-bag cookery. The en papillote method had long been known, but was generally unsatisfactory because the taste of paper clung to the food inside. This problem was overcome by the development of special paper which did not have this disadvantage. In England, Spicers created the famous Soyer bag, at the instigation of Nicholas Soyer, grandson of the great chef, whose Paper-bag Cookery Paper-bag Cookery was published in 1911. Nowadays we use foil, which is completely neutral, and has the extra advantage over paper of being more efficiently twisted into a seal. Soyer demonstrated that almost anything could be cooked by this method, from cakes to huge joints of beef, but I think it is most successful of all with fish. If you cannot buy pompano, do not despair. Use fillets of any good firm fish instead John Dory, turbot or brill, salmon trout, rainbow trout or ba.s.s. The rich crab sauce is excellent with this type of fish. was published in 1911. Nowadays we use foil, which is completely neutral, and has the extra advantage over paper of being more efficiently twisted into a seal. Soyer demonstrated that almost anything could be cooked by this method, from cakes to huge joints of beef, but I think it is most successful of all with fish. If you cannot buy pompano, do not despair. Use fillets of any good firm fish instead John Dory, turbot or brill, salmon trout, rainbow trout or ba.s.s. The rich crab sauce is excellent with this type of fish.

Serves 66 fillets pompanosalt, pepperskin, bones and head for stock1 chopped shallot or or 1 heaped tablespoon chopped onion 1 heaped tablespoon chopped onion90 g (3 oz) b.u.t.ter600 ml (1 pt) dry white wine250 g (8 oz) crab meat250 g (8 oz) sh.e.l.led prawns clove garlic, chopped250 g (8 oz) onion, chopped1 sprig thyme1 bay leaf1 heaped tablespoon plain flour2 egg yolks Season the fish. Simmer skin, bones, etc. in 1 litre (1 pt) water for 30 minutes, strain into a measuring jug (there should be about 450 ml/15 fl oz of stock). Cook the shallot in 30 g (1 oz) b.u.t.ter until it begins to soften; add fillets. When they are lightly coloured on both sides, pour in the wine and simmer until the fish is just cooked and no more. Strain off the wine and set it aside. Leave the fish to cool.

Meanwhile, lightly fry crab, prawns and half the crushed garlic in another 30 g (1 oz) of b.u.t.ter. Add the onions and the remaining garlic. Cook gently for 10 minutes, covered. Add herbs and 300 ml (10 fl oz) of the fish stock. Make a thick sauce in the usual way with the remaining b.u.t.ter, the flour and the stock. Incorporate the white wine in which the fish was cooked, and the crab and onion mixture. Thicken further with the egg yolks. Correct seasoning. Remove the thyme stalks and bay leaf.

If you want to present the pompano properly, cut six paper or foil hearts large enough to contain the fillets. (Otherwise cut six oblongs, about 23 x 30 cm/9 x 12 inches.) Brush them lightly with oil. Put a layer of sauce on one half of each heart, then the fish and more sauce. Fold over the other side and twist the edges tightly together to make a close seal. Put these parcels on a baking sheet; place them in a very hot oven (gas 8, 230 C/450 F) for about 10 minutes.

NOTE This is said, by Marion Brown in This is said, by Marion Brown in The Southern Cook Book The Southern Cook Book, to be the genuine recipe from Antoine's. I have seen variations elsewhere in which crab meat alone was used, no prawns, and 125 g (4 oz) of sliced mushrooms added to the onions.

There is no reason why such a delicious sauce should not be served with pompano, and other fish, which have been poached in white wine, without the en papillote finish.

BAKED POMPANO WITH PRAWN OR SHRIMP STUFFING.

Serves 61 pompanosalt, black pepper1 small onion, chopped1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter60 g (2 oz) breadcrumbsmilk1 heaped tablespoon parsley175250 g (68 oz) sh.e.l.led prawns or shrimpswhite wine or or cream cream Clean and season the fish. Make the stuffing; melt the onion in the b.u.t.ter until soft. Squeeze out the breadcrumbs in a little milk. Add to the onions and stir in the parsley off the heat. Chop the prawns or shrimps roughly and mix them in. Season to taste, and stuff the fish.

b.u.t.ter an ovenproof baking dish and lay the pompano in it. Pour a little white wine over it about a gla.s.sful or some cream. Bake in a moderate to fairly hot oven (gas 45, 180 190 C/350375 F) for three-quarters of an hour.

GRILLED POMPANO WITH CUc.u.mBER HOLLANDAISE.

Split and bone the whole pompano, or buy 6 fillets. Brush with melted b.u.t.ter, season, and grill with the cut side up. When the fish is almost cooked, turn it over and grill the other side if you like, but this is not necessary the fish can be cooked completely without being turned over.

Serve with this sauce:1 large cuc.u.mbersalthollandaise sauce*Tabasco sauce Slice the cuc.u.mber thinly. Put it into a colander, sprinkle with salt, and leave to drain for at least an hour. Rinse if the slices are too salty, gently squeeze them dry in a clean tea towel, and then chop roughly. Make the hollandaise sauce, incorporating a dash of Tabasco with the seasonings at the beginning. Fold in the cuc.u.mber just before serving, and adjust the seasoning.

BONITO see see TUNA TUNA

BRILL Scophthalmus rhombus [image]

There is one particular category, a category not much dwelt upon in food matters though I am sure it occupies a fair amount of the psychologist's time, that corrals a sad group in many spheres of existence. It makes life h.e.l.l in some families. It dents the morale of towns, suburbs and villages, schools and shops. I refer to the almost as good as almost as good as category for instance, Edward is almost as brave/tough/handsome as his brother Andrew. In food matters, this category can be exploited in unfortunate ways by devious businessmen for instance, sponge-cake-with-additives-to-give-a-200-year-shelf-life is category for instance, Edward is almost as brave/tough/handsome as his brother Andrew. In food matters, this category can be exploited in unfortunate ways by devious businessmen for instance, sponge-cake-with-additives-to-give-a-200-year-shelf-life is almost as good as almost as good as the one you make at home with eggs, sugar and flour. Carob and that extraordinary stuff they coat biscuits with these days is the one you make at home with eggs, sugar and flour. Carob and that extraordinary stuff they coat biscuits with these days is almost as good as almost as good as chocolate. Sometimes the chocolate. Sometimes the almost as good as almost as good as category is expanded so vigorously that it knocks out the tip-top category it was once compared with. People stop asking for the real thing because they have forgotten what it tastes like, even that it ever existed. Ice cream, sausages and properly reared, properly hung meat. category is expanded so vigorously that it knocks out the tip-top category it was once compared with. People stop asking for the real thing because they have forgotten what it tastes like, even that it ever existed. Ice cream, sausages and properly reared, properly hung meat.

Whenever brill comes up, it is firmly placed in that category, too. Brill is almost as good as almost as good as turbot. Actually, the gap is quite a large one. And perhaps I am being over-sensitive and even paranoid in suspecting that the fish trade keeps turbot from us, keeps sole from us, keeps wild salmon from us, so as to make us forget such things. Then we will stop demanding them, and they will have an easier time selling us brill, lemon sole and farmed salmon. Less worry about conserving stocks, which means less trouble with quotas. Eventually we shall end up with a choice between fish fingers and crab sticks. All fishermen will have to do is to run their vacuum cleaners over the sea bed, and transfer the haul to processing plants. turbot. Actually, the gap is quite a large one. And perhaps I am being over-sensitive and even paranoid in suspecting that the fish trade keeps turbot from us, keeps sole from us, keeps wild salmon from us, so as to make us forget such things. Then we will stop demanding them, and they will have an easier time selling us brill, lemon sole and farmed salmon. Less worry about conserving stocks, which means less trouble with quotas. Eventually we shall end up with a choice between fish fingers and crab sticks. All fishermen will have to do is to run their vacuum cleaners over the sea bed, and transfer the haul to processing plants.

We have not, thank goodness, come quite to that point though in some fis.h.i.+ng communities it seems uncomfortably near. Let us enjoy brill while we may, because it is a good fish of the second rank and worthy of our attention. I should perhaps add that the name is occasionally used for a most distinguished flatfish of the Pacific coast of America, the petrale sole. Although biologically the fish are not the same, they can be cooked in the same ways; recipes, too, for turbot, sole and other flatfish are all suitable as well. That goes without saying.

With all these flatfish or flounders, it is a question of sorting out the appropriate treatment. The first division comes with firmness in this, sole and turbot have a supreme advantage since firmness combined with sweetness in fish is the most desirable of qualities. You underline this excellence with the finest sauces. Alternatively, you underline it by doing the least you possibly can so that nothing gets in the way, and serving it with the finest wine, the best bread. I remember the surprise of eating the very best oysters at Wheeler's in London, oysters in lavish quant.i.ties, and being served 'brown' bread of such poor quality that one suspected it had come from a plastic packet of sliced bread.

Brill may not be of this high standing, but it is worth fresh and lively treatment. You could also try it with cheese: either bake it and pour a Welsh rabbit over it, or give it the more measured treatment of sole cooked with Parmesan (p. 384). The fillets are good for frying Alan Davidson gives a delightful Swedish recipe for cooking the fillets this way in b.u.t.ter with a panful of chanterelle (girolle) mushrooms. But then, almost all white fish of second and lower quality is extraordinarily improved when cooked with mushrooms of any kind, even cultivated mushrooms. Try it, too, with samphire sauce*.

HOW TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE BRILL.

Brill do not have the slightly diamond outline of the turbot, and they are in general smaller. The dark skin is smooth. Both sides need scaling, which is not the case with turbot.

When you are baking the fish whole, you can also cut through the dark skinned side. With flatfish, this is the equivalent to slas.h.i.+ng the plumpest part of a round fish when grilling or baking it. Cut along the lateral line to the bone.

You may like to take the opportunity of easing the flesh a little away from the bone and introducing seasoning and b.u.t.ter. Place the brill down on its slashed side.

BAKED BRILL IN PORTUGUESE STYLE.

A pleasant summery dish that depends for success on the quality of the tomatoes.

Serves 41 large brill, scaled and cleanedsalt, pepper70 g (2 oz) b.u.t.ter1 large onion, thinly slicedleaves of 2 sprigs thyme1 tablespoon chopped parsley1 bay leaf125 ml (4 fl oz) dry white wine, preferably Portuguese3 tomatoes (about 340 g/12 oz), skinned, seeded, coa.r.s.ely chopped clove garlic, finely choppedpinch of sugar Preheat the oven to gas 7, 220 C (425 F). Choose a heat- and ovenproof gratin or earthenware dish that accommodates the brill.

Slash down the dark side of the brill, along the central bone and sc.r.a.pe the flesh from the bones on either side to make a pocket. Season it inside and smear in a good tablespoon of b.u.t.ter.

Using a heat-diffuser mat if necessary, put the dish over a low heat and melt just enough b.u.t.ter to cover the base with a thin layer. Add the onion, thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and cook until the onion begins to look transparent and tender, without browning. Lay the brill in the dish, dark side down. Pour over the wine and lay a b.u.t.ter paper (or a b.u.t.tered greaseproof paper) on top of the fish. When everything is bubbling away, transfer the dish to the oven and leave it there for 1015 minutes, or until the fish is ready.

Meanwhile, cook the tomato in a generous tablespoon of b.u.t.ter with the garlic, salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar if the tomatoes need its help. Aim to end with a fresh-tasting, choppy puree of a sauce.

When the fish is ready, stir the remaining b.u.t.ter into the tomato and pour it round the brill, stirring it slightly and as best you can into the juices. Serve with plenty of bread, and the wine that you used for the cooking.

BRILL WITH VERMOUTH.

Dry white vermouth is an excellent wine for cooking fish. When the amount of liquid being used is small, its p.r.o.nounced flavour and concentration gives a better result than dry white wine. Use extra dry Martini, Noilly Prat, or Chambery.

Serves 66 125175 g (46 oz) portions brill fillet 125175 g (46 oz) portions brill filletsalt, pepper4 tablespoons melted b.u.t.terbreadcrumbs made from day-old bread4 tablespoons finely chopped shallot3 tablespoons chopped parsley10 tablespoons vermouth6090 g (23 oz) unsalted b.u.t.ter Season the fish with salt and pepper, a little in advance, if possible.

Switch on the oven to gas 8, 230 C (450 F).

Brush the top side of each piece of brill with melted b.u.t.ter and press it down into a tray of breadcrumbs to coat it. With a b.u.t.ter paper, grease an ovenproof dish that will take the fillets in a single layer, fairly closely. Scatter the shallot and most of the parsley over the base, and put the fillets on top, crumb side up. Sprinkle the rest of the melted b.u.t.ter over the crumbs. Pour the vermouth round the sides of the fish.

Bake for about 10 minutes, or until the brill is cooked. Remove the fish to six warm plates. Strain the cooking juices into a small pan and whisk in the unsalted b.u.t.ter. Season to taste. Pour the sauce beside the pieces of fish and scatter it with a little of the remaining parsley.

CAPELIN see see A FEW WORDS ABOUT... A FEW WORDS ABOUT... SMELT SMELT

CARP Cyprinus carpio [image]

For centuries, carp have been the pet fish of domestic waters. Frank Buckland described them as 'water-sheep herbivorous gregarious of a contented mind'. Still at great houses, like the chateau of Chantilly in France, they rise in crowds to the surface of moat or lake to be fed (not, I believe, on account of the bell which is rung, but because they see people collecting together and have learnt that this means food). Another of the French chateaux, Chambord, has given its name to a much-truffled preparation of carp in the princely style.

The first carp I encountered came from no such elegant waters, but from the river Loir, in May. The clammy creature was handed to me by a friend who observed that he had brought his lunch with him. I recognized the handsome large-scaled fish from Chinese plates and paintings, but I had not the least idea of how to cook it. Neither did I know that it should have been soaked in vinegar and water in case it had a muddy flavour.

As it turned out, I was lucky. That carp had been kind enough to avoid the murkier depths of the Loir. And the only means I had of cooking it foil, a double row of bricks with a grill, and charcoal were just right for its fresh liveliness of flavour. b.u.t.ter, shallots, parsley and white wine all went into the package, and we remember its taste many years later.

Our second carp did not turn out so well. It was not Cyprinus carpio Cyprinus carpio from the Loir, but a Mirror carp, a variety which has been bred for fish-farming. It looked strange, even amongst the exotic fish of Soho. The skin had a soft, wash-leather appearance, an opulent nudity, as the huge scales were few and dotted in single rows. That fish must have been a long way from home, because the flavour had faded. In fact, carp are good travellers. I should have been more careful to choose a livelier looking specimen. Although one could not expect the wild freshness of river-caught carp, these domestic varieties please the Chinese, and the Germans, and the French, all in their very different ways serious eaters of good things. Obviously carp are not selling in large quant.i.ties all over the world just because they are tough survivors and easily fed. (Some of the ponds extend to thousands of acres.) from the Loir, but a Mirror carp, a variety which has been bred for fish-farming. It looked strange, even amongst the exotic fish of Soho. The skin had a soft, wash-leather appearance, an opulent nudity, as the huge scales were few and dotted in single rows. That fish must have been a long way from home, because the flavour had faded. In fact, carp are good travellers. I should have been more careful to choose a livelier looking specimen. Although one could not expect the wild freshness of river-caught carp, these domestic varieties please the Chinese, and the Germans, and the French, all in their very different ways serious eaters of good things. Obviously carp are not selling in large quant.i.ties all over the world just because they are tough survivors and easily fed. (Some of the ponds extend to thousands of acres.) I have learnt since that the carp is a surprisingly interesting fish for the cook, as I hope you will agree after reading the following recipes. It should be added that, for the eater, the flesh is firm and sweet, the arrangement of bones satisfyingly comprehensible. The soft roe is a great delicacy. If it is not required specifically in the recipe, turn to p. 430 p. 430 and make the Cure's omelette with it. and make the Cure's omelette with it.

TO CHOOSE AND PREPARE CARP.

The male carp with a soft roe is generally preferred to the female: its flavour is thought to be better.

A problem with carp is the likelihood that it will taste muddy. There are two ways to counteract this. First you can salt the fish, either sprinkling salt over the slices, or soaking the whole carp in a brine. As well, you can soak it for 5 minutes in water acidulated with vinegar say 6 tablespoons to 1 litre (1 pt) of water. Take advice from the fishmonger.

However, before you get to this stage, you should sc.r.a.pe off the scales unless it is Christmas Eve and you want to keep them on as good luck charms for the coming year. Then cut out the gills, wash and dry the fish. Now put it on a flat surface, remove the fins and cut the tail shorter and slit the belly so that you can remove the innards. Do this carefully, as inside there is a gall sack that should be removed intact or else the fish will remain bitter; you should also remove the thickest part of the intestine. The rest of the innards should be left inside, and neither they nor the cavity should be washed with water or the special characteristic flavour of the carp will be spoiled.

Now you can salt the fish, and give it a vinegar bath, before tackling one of the following recipes.

CARPE AU BLEU WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE.

Serves 612 kg (34 lb) carp150 ml (5 fl oz) wine or tarragon vinegarcourt bouillon no. 2*300 ml (10 fl oz) double cream60 g (2 oz) ground almonds1 teaspoon sugargrated horseradish to taste or or prepared horseradish prepared horseradishsalt After cleaning it, tie the carp in a circle, nose to tail. (Do not wash or scale.) Put it into a pan. Bring the vinegar to the boil and pour it over the fish. Add the court bouillon, bring to the boil, and simmer until the carp is cooked. Drain and serve with the following sauce.

Bring cream, almonds and sugar to the boil. Stir in grated or prepared horseradish to taste and season with salt. A little lemon juice can also be added.

CARP STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS.

This is a more conventional recipe, from The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook, though again there is the sweet note, in this case of chestnuts.

Serves 41 kg (3 lb) carp450 ml (15 fl oz) dry white winesaltcracker crumbs2 generous tablespoons melted b.u.t.terSTUFFING1 medium onion, chopped2 shallots, chopped1 clove garlic, crushed2 generous tablespoons b.u.t.ter5-cm (2-inch) thick slice of breaddry white wine1 tablespoon chopped parsley1 teaspoon salt teaspoon each pepper, mace, powdered bay leaf, thyme12 chestnuts, boiled, peeled and roughly chopped1 egg First make the stuffing. Cook the onion, shallots and garlic until soft and golden in the b.u.t.ter. Cut the crusts off the bread, dice it and soak in a little dry white wine. Squeeze out the surplus. Mix the rest of the stuffing ingredients together and put into the cleaned carp. Sew or skewer together and leave for 2 hours.

Bake for 20 minutes in a fairly hot oven, preheated to gas 5, 190C (375F), with the white wine and salt. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs, pour over the melted b.u.t.ter and put back into the oven for another 20 minutes. Serve with noodles.

CATIGOT.

Catigot or catigau catigau is a freshwater fish stew from southern France. Two or more varieties are cooked in white wine, the sauce thickened with egg yolks. Bacon fat or lard is used instead of olive oil or b.u.t.ter. This recipe is based on one from is a freshwater fish stew from southern France. Two or more varieties are cooked in white wine, the sauce thickened with egg yolks. Bacon fat or lard is used instead of olive oil or b.u.t.ter. This recipe is based on one from La Cuisine Rustique Languedoc La Cuisine Rustique Languedoc by Andre Bonnaure. by Andre Bonnaure.

Serves 46500g (1 lb) eel750 g ( (1 lb) carp carp1 large onion, sliced1 medium carrot, sliced23 cloves garlic, crushedlard or or bacon fat bacon fat175 ml (6 fl oz) dry white winesalt, pepper3 egg yolks tablespoon wine vinegarcroutons of bread fried in lard or cooking oil and rubbed with garlic Skin and clean the eel. Scale and clean the carp. Cut them into chunks about 4 cm (1 inches) wide. Cook the onion, carrot and garlic, until lightly coloured, in just enough lard to cover the base of a saucepan. Put the pieces of fish into the pan. Pour in the wine and add water to cover. Season, and cook over a good heat for 10 minutes or until the fish is tender.

Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with the vinegar. When the fish is cooked, strain a little of its liquid into the egg yolk mixture, stirring all the time. Return to the pan and keep over a low heat, without boiling without boiling, until the sauce is thickened. Turn into a serving dish and serve with the croutons tucked around the edge.

CHINESE CARP WITH CHICKEN FAT SAUCE.

The Chinese consider that the flavour of chicken fat enhances the soft delicacy of carp. The fish will be fried in the fat with spring onion and ginger: soy sauce, sherry and some water are then added so that the carp can finish cooking more comfortably. Kenneth Lo gives a slightly more elaborate version of the sauce, which is well worth trying.

Serves 46 with other dishes1 kg (2-3 lb) carpsalt1 tablespoons plain flour5 tablespoons chicken fat2 slices fresh ginger, peeled, cut into shreds2 cloves garlic, chopped4 spring onions cut into 2-cm (1-inch) lengths3 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon hoisin sauce1 teaspoon chilli sauce2 teaspoons sugar2 tablespoons sherry1 packet tofu, 300 g (10 oz)175 ml (6fl oz) chicken stock Clean the carp completely and rub with salt outside and in the cavity. Leave for an hour, then dry and rub the flour into the fish.

In an oval flameproof ca.s.serole, heat the chicken fat. In it stir-fry the ginger, garlic and half the spring onion for 1 minute. Then add the sauces, sugar and sherry. Lay the carp on top, cook for 2 minutes, then turn it over and give it 2 minutes more. Meanwhile, cut the tofu into 12 pieces and put them against the inside of the pot. Add the stock and remaining spring onions. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Serve straightaway in the cooking pot.

HALASZLe KALOCSAI.

Kalocsa fish soup is made with carp from the Danube, in a great iron pot, set on the banks of the river for preference. The right peppers to use are the hot cherry peppers that are much grown in Hungary, but fresh hot red chillis can be subst.i.tuted. Other river fish can be used.

Serves 461 kg (2 lb) carp, cleaned15 hot cherry peppers or or 2 long fresh red hot chillis, 1 broken to expose the seeds 2 long fresh red hot chillis, 1 broken to expose the seeds125 g (4 oz) chopped onion3 teaspoons tomato paste2 tablespoons paprikasalt Chop the head and tail from the carp and put them into a large pot with the peppers or chillis, the onion, tomato paste, paprika and 1 litre (generous 1 pt) water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hour. Remove the head and tail. Then cut the fish into steaks, put them into the soup and simmer for up to 30 minutes. Do not be tempted to stir the soup or the fish will break up; just shake the pot from time to time. Add salt to taste, give it another 2 minutes and serve with bread.

NOTE If you persuade the fishmonger to skin the carp for you, put that in with the head and tail to flavour the broth. If you persuade the fishmonger to skin the carp for you, put that in with the head and tail to flavour the broth.

KARP NA SZARO (Karpfen in Polnische sauce) In Poland and East Germany it is usual to have carp in grey sauce (szary sos) on Christmas Eve. The fish is cooked with its scales on and everyone treasures a scale or two in their purse to bring them good luck in the coming year. Sometimes the sauce is made with a mixture of beer and red wine, or with red wine alone carp in red wine is a New Year's Eve dish in some parts of Germany.

Serves 61 kg (3 lb) carp, prepared and cut into steaks, the head splitsalt3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons plain flour1 litre (1 pt) liquid, half brown beer (not bitter) and half beef stock or or one-quarter beer, one-quarter red wine, half beef stock one-quarter beer, one-quarter red wine, half beef stock or or half red wine, half beef stock half red wine, half beef stock125 g (4 oz) chopped onion3 tablespoons chopped green herbs teaspoon allspice or or 2 cloves 2 cloves3 prunes, stoned, chopped60 g (2 oz) chopped Pfefferkuchen, pain d'epices Pfefferkuchen, pain d'epices or gingerbread or gingerbreadlemon juice, pepper, sugar60 g (2 oz) blanched almonds60 g (2 oz) raisins Put the carp pieces in a dish with the head and sprinkle with salt (unless it has already been salted). Set aside for an hour.

Cook the b.u.t.ter to the fragrant brown stage, stir in the flour off the heat. Cook gently to a coffee-coloured roux. Gradually stir in the liquid, and add the onion, herbs, spices, prunes and spice or ginger cake. Simmer for 30 minutes, then sieve into a pan that will take the pieces of carp. Taste the sauce, and add lemon juice, pepper and sugar to taste. When it tastes right, put in the almonds and raisins, and the pieces of carp which have been drained and dried. It is sensible to put the head in the bottom of the pan. Simmer until cooked.

Check the seasoning and serve in a warm shallow serving dish.

Carpe a la juive This simpler version of the previous recipe makes a good cold dish. A strange thing about the carp is the unanimity with which it is treated across the world as if everyone agreed to emphasize what Kenneth Lo described as its 'uncomplicated sweet-freshness'. I cannot think there is any connection between central European and Chinese methods, because the carp recipes of mainland Europe seem to be living fossils of the sweet-sour style of medieval cookery. Interesting, though, that such recipes should have survived for carp, when so many other medieval recipes for other fish have not. This Jewish style comes from Lorraine.

Follow the recipe above, leaving the carp whole if you have a fish kettle. Prepare and scale it. Then cook as above, subst.i.tuting fish stock or water for the liquid wine vinegar for lemon juice bouquet garni for chopped herbs omitting prunes and spice/ginger cake spices doubling quant.i.ties of almonds and raisins.

Remove the cooked fish to an oval serving plate, re-forming the steaks into something of the carp's original shape if you have had to cut it up. Reduce the cooking liquor, if need be, to make a stronger flavour, then remove the bouquet. Check seasoning and pour over the fish. The sauce sets to a jelly. Serve chilled.

MEURETTE DE CARPE.

Serves 4125 g (4 oz) mushrooms, sliced1 medium onion, chopped90 g (3 oz) currants3 large cloves garlicbouquet garni1 bottle red Burgundysalt, pepper11 kg (23 lb) carp4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon plain flour Simmer the mushrooms, onion, currants, garlic, bouquet garni and wine together for half an hour, uncovered, until the wine has reduced by a good third. Season. Clean the carp and cut into pieces. Add to the pan, cover, and simmer for another 20 minutes, or until the fish is cooked.

Mash b.u.t.ter and flour together, and use it to thicken the sauce (beurre manie*). Reheat and serve with croutons of bread fried in b.u.t.ter. Remove the bouquet garni before serving, and the head of the carp.

VERSENYI BATYUS PONTY.

Carp in a bundle, Verseny style, is a recipe of George Lang's from his masterpiece of a book, The Cuisine of Hungary The Cuisine of Hungary. It is served with a horseradish soured-cream sauce a veloute made with beef stock and milk, flavoured with a little sugar, vinegar or lemon juice and 125 g (4 oz) grated horseradish which has soaked in a little boiling water for 2 minutes. Last of all 125 ml (4 fl oz) soured cream.

Serves 461 kg (2 lb) carp fillet, cut in 1 piecesalt3 tablespoons plain flour1 tablespoon paprika4 tablespoons clarified b.u.t.ter1 egg white, slightly beaten to break it upDOUGH175 g (6 oz) plain flour125 g (4 oz) b.u.t.ter1 egg yolk1 tablespoon soured cream1 teaspoon salt Make the dough first. Rub together the flour and b.u.t.ter until you have a crumbly mixture. Mix in the egg yolk, soured cream and salt. Knead on a lightly floured board to make a dough. Chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour.

Switch on the oven set at gas 5, 190C (375F). Salt the fish and roll it in the flour and paprika mixed. Shake off any excess. Fry slowly in the b.u.t.ter on both sides.

Choose an ovenproof dish measuring 23 15 cm (9 x 6 inches). Roll out the dough into a rectangle. Line the dish with one end of the dough. Put the fish on top. Fold the rest of the dough over and round the fish. Brush over with egg white. Bake 4045 minutes.