Arabesque - A Taste Of Morocco, Turkey, And Lebanon Part 2

VARIATION Add the peel of a preserved lemon (see page 7) and about 12 green olives at the same time as the herbs.

ARTICHOKE and and FAVA BEAN SALAD FAVA BEAN SALAD with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON Slada L'Korni Wal Ful I use the frozen artichoke bottoms obtainable from Middle Eastern and Asian grocers, who also sometimes sell frozen skinned fava beans. Some supermarkets sell freshly sh.e.l.led fava beans. You do not need to remove the skins if they are young. If you wish to use fresh artichokes, see page 8. 8.

SERVES 4 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground ginger (optional)3 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed7 ounces artichoke bottoms, defrosted, quartered or halved7 ounces fresh fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight)saltpeel of preserved lemon (see page 7)To garnish: 8 green olives (optional) In a pan, stir the oil with the c.u.min, ginger, if using, and garlic, then put in the artichoke bottoms and the fava beans. Cook over low heat for a moment, stirring, until the aroma of the garlic rises.

Almost cover with about 1 cup water and add salt. Simmer, covered, for the first 5 minutes, then uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes, until the beans are very tender and the sauce is reduced. Add the preserved lemon, cut into thin slices, toward the end.

Serve warm, garnished, if you like, with a few olives and a little more thinly sliced preserved lemon peel.

SPINACH SALAD with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON and and OLIVES OLIVES Salkh Bil Hamid Wal Zaytoun Preserved lemons bring one of the defining flavors to Moroccan salads and are often used together with olives. Cook the spinach in two batches if your saucepan is not large enough for all the bulky spinach leaves. Keep back 4 4 or or 5 5 whole olives as a garnish. whole olives as a garnish.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 pounds fresh spinach3 garlic cloves, chopped3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or argan oil (see page 31)peel of preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7) cup violet olives, pitted and choppedsalt and black pepper Wash the spinach and remove the stems only if they are thick and hard. Put the leaves in a large pan, cover with a lid, and set over low heat until the leaves crumple into a soft ma.s.s. They will steam in the water that clings to them in 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well.

Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pan until the aroma rises. Add the chopped preserved lemon peel, the chopped olives, and the cooked spinach. Season with salt and pepper, mix well, and cook over high heat for a moment or two.

Stir in the remaining oil, garnish with the reserved olives, and serve cold.

TOMATOES STUFFED with with ROAST PEPPERS, TUNA, CAPERS, ROAST PEPPERS, TUNA, CAPERS, and and OLIVES OLIVES Tamatem Ma'Amrine The tomatoes can be served hot or cold. I prefer them cold. For vegetarians, they make an elegant main dish accompanied by a potato or carrot salad. Use large or beefsteak tomatoes.

SERVES 6 4 red bell pepperssalt3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilone 7-ounce can of tuna, flaked2 tablespoons capers4 tablespoons chopped black olivespeel of preserved lemon, chopped (optional) (see page 7)2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley6 large tomatoes Place the peppers on a sheet of foil on an oven tray under a preheated broiler, 2 to 3 inches from the broiler. Turn them until their skins are black and blistered all over. Alternatively-and more easily-roast them in the hottest oven for about 30 minutes, or until they are soft and their skins blistered and blackened, turning them once after 15 minutes.

To loosen the skins further, put them in a strong plastic bag, twist it shut, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. Another old way that has the same effect is to put them in a pan with a tight-fitting lid for the same length of time. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove and discard the stems and seeds. Now cut the peppers into strips about inch wide. Mix with the rest of the ingredients except the tomatoes.

Cut a small circle around the stalk of each tomato and cut out a cap. Remove the center and seeds with a pointed teaspoon. Fill the cavities with the roast pepper mixture and replace the caps. Arrange in a shallow baking dish and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the tomatoes are a little soft. Keep a watch, however, that they do not fall apart.

CHICKPEAS with with TURMERIC TURMERIC Hummas In Morocco, this is considered "poor food." It is eaten hot with bread to soak up the juices. You could make it with canned chickpeas, in which case it would take only a few minutes to cook, but for a large quant.i.ty like this, it is worth using dried chickpeas, as their taste and texture is better and they will have time to absorb the flavors. You need to soak them in water for a few hours or overnight.

SERVES 6 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 large onion, chopped4 garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon ground turmeric1 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water overnightsalt and black pepper3 tablespoons chopped cilantro3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until lightly colored. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Stir in the turmeric, then add the drained chickpeas.

Cover with about 2 cups water and simmer for 1 hours, or until the chick-peas are very tender, adding salt and pepper when they have softened, and extra water if it becomes too dry. The liquid should be reduced to a thick sauce at the end of the cooking.

Stir in the chopped cilantro and parsley and cook for 5 minutes more.

VARIATIONS A grander version served as a first course is made with teaspoon saffron threads or powder instead of the turmeric.

Add the juice of 1 lemon at the end.

Dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight, or the canned variety, drained, can be used in the same way as chickpeas.

PEAS and and FAVA BEANS FAVA BEANS with with MINT MINT and and GARLIC GARLIC Jekban Wal Ful Bil Na'na I am lucky enough to find freshly sh.e.l.led fava beans and peas at my local supermarket. If you grow your own, or have a source of really young vegetables, use them, but it is better to use frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois and fava beans rather than old fresh ones. and fava beans rather than old fresh ones.

SERVES 4 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil7 ounces young fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight)salt7 ounces young peas (sh.e.l.led weight)1 teaspoon sugarblack pepperhandful of chopped mintjuice of lemon Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon oil for a few seconds only, stirring. Before it begins to color, add the fava beans and a little salt, and barely cover with water. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes, until the beans are tender.

Add the peas, sugar, pepper, a little more salt, the mint, and lemon juice and simmer, covered, until the peas are tender. If they are very young, this takes only a minute. (If you are using older peas, put them in at the same time as the beans.) They do not need to be covered with water as they cook in the steam, but do not let the vegetables dry out. Add a little water, if necessary, and reduce excess liquid by cooking uncovered.

Stir in the remaining olive oil and serve hot or cold.

FISH CAKES Kefta Bil Hout These Moroccan fish cakes can be served as a first course with green salad leaves. They also make good finger food for a party. Use cod, haddock, or another firm white fish.

MAKES 15 FISH CAKES 1 pound firm, white fish fillets, skinned1 teaspoons ground c.u.mingood pinch of chili pepper to 1 teaspoon salt3 garlic cloves, crushed1 egg, beaten lightlypeel of to 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped (see page 7) (optional)handful of chopped flat-leafed parsley or cilantro, or a mix of bothabout 5 tablespoons all-purpose flourolive oil for deep-fryingTo garnish: 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Cut the fish fillets into pieces and put them in the food processor with the rest of the ingredients except the flour and oil. Process for about 5 seconds only, until it is finely chopped and the ingredients are well mixed. It is important not to let it turn into a paste.

Sprinkle the flour onto a plate. Wet your hands, take a lump of the fish mixture the size of a small egg, roll it into a ball, and flatten it. Do the same with the rest of the mixture, then turn the fish cakes in the flour to cover them all over.

Shallow-fry the cakes in hot oil until browned, turning them over once. Lift them out and drain on paper towels. Serve hot or cold, accompanied by lemon wedges.

VARIATION You can use the same fish mixture as above to make b.a.l.l.s rather than cakes. These are very good poached in a tomato sauce. For the sauce, fry 4 to 5 finely chopped garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons olive oil for a moment or two, add 2 pounds peeled and chopped tomatoes, 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, salt, a pinch of chili pepper, and cook for 10 minutes. Roll the fish mixture into b.a.l.l.s, drop them into the sauce, and simmer for 5 minutes.

LITTLE PIES with with FRESH GOAT CHEESE FRESH GOAT CHEESE and and OLIVES OLIVES Briwat Bil Jban Use a soft, fresh-tasting, mild goat cheese for these little pies. Use the fillo in sheets that measure Use the fillo in sheets that measure 12 12 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 7 7 inches, which you can find fresh in some supermarkets, or use the large sheets measuring inches, which you can find fresh in some supermarkets, or use the large sheets measuring 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches and cut them in half. See the note on fillo on page inches and cut them in half. See the note on fillo on page 9. 9.You can freeze these pies and you can put them straight from the freezer into the oven without thawing, but they will need a little more cooking time. They make elegant and tasty party fare.

MAKES 20 TRIANGLES 10 ounces fresh goat cheese1 egg, beaten lightly14 black olives, pitted and chopped10 large or 20 small sheets of fillo (see above) stick (6 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, melted First, prepare the filling by mixing the goat cheese with the beaten egg and olives.

Take out the sheets of fillo from their wrapper only when you are ready to use them since they dry out quickly, and cover them with plastic wrap when you are not using them.

Keeping the first sheet of fillo on the pile, brush it lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Fold it lengthwise to produce a strip about 3 inches wide. Brush the top of the strip lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Take a heaping teaspoon of filling. Place it at one end of the strip, about 1 inches from the edge, and fold the end over the filling. Now pick up a corner and fold diagonally, making a triangle. Continue to fold, trapping the filling, until the whole strip has been folded into a triangular parcel. Make sure that you close any holes as you fold so that the filling does not ooze out.

Place the little parcels close to each other on a greased baking sheet. Brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter, and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 30 minutes, or until crisp and golden.

Serve them hot or warm. You can make them in advance and warm them up.

MEAT CIGARS Briwat Bil Kefta In Morocco, these briwat bil kefta briwat bil kefta are made with are made with warka warka (see page (see page 29 29 ) and deep-fried, but it is not only much easier to use fillo and to bake them, but the result is very good. See the note on fillo on page ) and deep-fried, but it is not only much easier to use fillo and to bake them, but the result is very good. See the note on fillo on page 9. 9. I used sheets measuring about I used sheets measuring about 6 6 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches. It is very good finger food to serve at a party. inches. It is very good finger food to serve at a party.

MAKES ABOUT 60 CIGARS cup vegetable oil1 medium onion, chopped finely1 pounds ground beef or lamb2 teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon ground gingersaltblack pepper or good pinch of ground chili pepper3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley3 tablespoons chopped cilantro5 eggs, lightly beaten1 pound large fillo sheets2/3 cup melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil First prepare the filling. Heat the oil in a large skillet, and saute the onion in the oil until softened. Add the meat, spices, salt, and pepper or chili pepper, and cook, crus.h.i.+ng the meat with a fork and turning it over, for 5 to 10 minutes, until it changes color. Then stir in the chopped parsley, cilantro, and the beaten eggs, and cook gently for a moment or two, stirring all the time, until the eggs set to a creamy consistency. Let the filling cool. Taste and add more spices and pepper, if you like.

With large scissors, cut all the sheets of fillo together, without separating them, into 3 strips of about 6 inches [.dotmath] 12 inches, and put the three piles together in one pile so that they do not dry out. Brush the top sheet very lightly with melted b.u.t.ter or oil.

Put a tablespoon of filling in a line along one of the short ends, about inch from the three edges. Roll up like a cigar, folding in the long sides at the halfway point so that the filling does not fall out, then continue to roll, letting the sides unfold so that the cigars appear open.

Place the rolls side by side on a greased baking tray, brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter, and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 30 minutes, or until golden.

Serve them hot. You can make them in advance and warm them up.

VARIATIONS Before serving, dust the rolls first with confectioners' sugar and then with cinnamon.

These rolls are very very nice deep-fried, so if you want to fry a few for an instant snack, do so in medium-hot vegetable oil, turning them over once, until browned, and drain on paper towels. nice deep-fried, so if you want to fry a few for an instant snack, do so in medium-hot vegetable oil, turning them over once, until browned, and drain on paper towels.

CHICKEN and and ONION CIGARS ONION CIGARS Briwat Bil Djaj The rolls are delicious if made with the chicken and onion filling on page 66 . . Prepare in the same way as the meat cigars above and bake for 30 minutes in an oven preheated to 350F. Dust with confectioners' sugar and then with cinnamon. Prepare in the same way as the meat cigars above and bake for 30 minutes in an oven preheated to 350F. Dust with confectioners' sugar and then with cinnamon.

CHICKEN and and ONION PIE ONION PIE Bstilla Bil Djaj This is a "poor man's" version of the famous pigeon pie called bstilla bstilla (or (or pastilla pastilla ), which is such a favorite at weddings and festive occasions, and which Moroccans say was brought back by the Moors from Andalusia. I have to admit that this pie, which comes from Fez, is very much more to my taste than the grander version. Don't be put off by what might seem like a difficult recipe; it is truly scrumptious and you must try it. ), which is such a favorite at weddings and festive occasions, and which Moroccans say was brought back by the Moors from Andalusia. I have to admit that this pie, which comes from Fez, is very much more to my taste than the grander version. Don't be put off by what might seem like a difficult recipe; it is truly scrumptious and you must try it.In Morocco, the pie is made with trid, trid, an oily puff pastry made by pulling an elastic dough until it is paper-thin and layering it. Since an oily puff pastry made by pulling an elastic dough until it is paper-thin and layering it. Since trid trid is not available in this country, use fillo, which is a perfect subst.i.tute. It comes in various commercial sizes. It is best to use the large-size sheets, which are available frozen in packages from Middle Eastern and other specialty stores. The sheets I use for this pie (from a popular brand) measure about is not available in this country, use fillo, which is a perfect subst.i.tute. It comes in various commercial sizes. It is best to use the large-size sheets, which are available frozen in packages from Middle Eastern and other specialty stores. The sheets I use for this pie (from a popular brand) measure about 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches. If you can find only smaller sheets, you can have more of them overlapping. Wrap any sheets that are left over in plastic wrap and keep in the refrigerator for future use. inches. If you can find only smaller sheets, you can have more of them overlapping. Wrap any sheets that are left over in plastic wrap and keep in the refrigerator for future use.

SERVES 4 TO 6 2 large onions, sliced (about 1 pound)3 tablespoons sunflower oil1/3 cup blanched almonds teaspoon ground ginger1 teaspoons ground cinnamon10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighssalt and black pepper cup chopped cilantro7 large sheets of fillo (about 7 ounces)about stick (6 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, melted1 egg yolkTo decorate: confectioners' sugar and cinnamon Put the onion in a wide saucepan with 2 tablespoons oil and cook, over a low heat, with the lid on, stirring occasionally, for up to 30 minutes, until it is very soft and only just beginning to color.

Fry the almonds in the remaining drop of oil, stirring and turning them over, until lightly golden. Drain on paper towels and chop them coa.r.s.ely.

When the onions are cooked, stir in the ginger and cinnamon, then put in the chicken, cut in bite-size pieces, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the onions are pale gold. If by this time there is still some liquid left (which would make the pastry soggy), remove

the chicken pieces from the pan and continue to cook the onion until the liquid has evaporated and you can see the oil sizzling. Now return the chicken to the pan, add the cilantro, and mix very well.

Open out the sheets of fillo when you are ready to use them and leave them in a pile so they don't dry out. Fit the first sheet in a greased round baking pan or dish about 9 inches in diameter and brush it entirely with melted b.u.t.ter, pressing the fillo into the corners with the brush and letting the longer edges hang over the sides. Repeat with 4 sheets, brus.h.i.+ng each with melted b.u.t.ter, including the ends that overhang the sides at different points (again, to prevent them from drying out).

Spread the chicken and onion mixture evenly in the hollow, then bring the overlapping fillo up over the filling to cover it. Sprinkle all over with the chopped almonds.

Lay another sheet of fillo over the top, brush it with melted b.u.t.ter, then lay the final sheet on top of that. Do not brush the last sheet with melted b.u.t.ter. Cut the longer overhanging ends of the sheets in a curve, leaving a wide margin round the pan. Now tuck these edges into the sides of the pan around the pie.

Brush the top with egg yolk mixed with a drop of water. Bake the pie in an oven preheated to 350F, for 30 to 40 minutes, until it is puffed up, crisp, and golden. Now put the pie on the bottom surface of the oven for about 15 minutes, which will help to brown the bottom. Turn out the pie or serve it in the baking dish.

Serve the pie hot, dusting the top with confectioners' sugar and then making a geometric pattern on the white confectioners' sugar with the golden-brown cinnamon.

VARIATION For a version that comes from Tetouan, add the juice of lemon and the chopped peel of preserved lemon (see page 7) to the filling. In this case, do not sprinkle the top of the pie with sugar or cinnamon.

POTATO and and TOMATO CAKE TOMATO CAKE Almokhtalitat Bil Tamatem Wal Batata This thick omelette can be made in advance. Served hot or cold, and cut into big or small wedges, it makes a substantial first course or vegetarian main dish.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 pound baking potatoes, peeled1 large onion, chopped2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, chopped finely10 ounces tomatoes, peeled and choppedsalt and black pepper1 teaspoon sugar chili pepper, finely chopped (optional)4 eggs3 to 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, then drain and mash them. In a wide skillet, fry the onion in the oil until golden, stirring occasionally. Stir in the garlic and fry briefly without letting it color. Add the tomatoes, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, add the chili pepper, if using, and cook the mixture over a high heat, stirring every so often, until it is reduced to a thick, jammy sauce.

Beat the eggs lightly, then beat them into the mashed potatoes. Add this to the tomato sauce and mix vigorously. Stir in the chopped parsley and adjust the seasoning.

Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet, preferably nonstick. When it sizzles, pour in the omelette mixture. Cook over low heat until the bottom sets (about 10 minutes), then cook the top under a preheated broiler until it is firm and lightly browned.

Serve hot or cold, turned out, and cut into wedges.

CHICKPEA and and LENTIL SOUP LENTIL SOUP Harira Harira is the generic term for a soup full of pulses-chickpeas, lentils, or beans-with little meat, few vegetables, and plenty of herbs and spices. Every day during the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell of this soup permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast. is the generic term for a soup full of pulses-chickpeas, lentils, or beans-with little meat, few vegetables, and plenty of herbs and spices. Every day during the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell of this soup permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast.While ingredients and spices vary, a particular feature is the way it is given what is described in Morocco as a "velvety" touch by stirring in a sourdough batter or simply flour mixed with water. In the cities in Morocco, it serves as a one-dish evening meal, and in rural areas it is also eaten as breakfast before peasants go out to work in the fields. During Ramadan, it is served with lemon quarters and accompanied by dates and honeyed pastries.The soup can be made a long time in advance, but if you are adding the tiny bird's-tongue pasta-douida in Morocco (you find it in Middle Eastern stores) in Morocco (you find it in Middle Eastern stores), orzo in Italian stores (or you can use broken vermicelli)-these should be added only about in Italian stores (or you can use broken vermicelli)-these should be added only about 10 10 to to 15 15 minutes before you are ready to serve, otherwise they will get bloated and mushy. I have given measurements for a large quant.i.ty because it is a rich, substantial soup that you might like to serve as a one-dish meal at a party. The best cuts of meat to use are shoulder or neck fillet. minutes before you are ready to serve, otherwise they will get bloated and mushy. I have given measurements for a large quant.i.ty because it is a rich, substantial soup that you might like to serve as a one-dish meal at a party. The best cuts of meat to use are shoulder or neck fillet.

SERVES 10 2 marrowbones, washed (optional)1 pound lamb or beef2 large onions, chopped coa.r.s.ely1 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight cup large brown lentils, rinsed1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped4 celery stalks, diced1 tablespoon tomato paste1 teaspoon black pepper1 teaspoon ground ginger2 sticks cinnamon teaspoon saffron threads or powder or 1 teaspoon turmericsalt5 tablespoons all-purpose flour5 ounces orzo (bird's-tongue) pasta or broken vermicelli (optional)juice of 1 lemon cup chopped cilantro1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsleyTo serve: 3 lemons, cut into quarters; dates (optional) If using marrowbones, blanch them in boiling water for a few minutes, then throw out the water. Put the bones in a large pan with the meat, cut into -inch pieces, the onions, and the drained chickpeas. Cover with about 13 cups water and bring to the boil. Remove the sc.u.m and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

Remove the bones (if using), scoop out the soft marrow with a knife, and drop it back into the soup.

Add the lentils, tomatoes, celery (include some leaves), tomato paste, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and saffron or turmeric. Simmer 15 minutes more, adding more water, if necessary, as the level drops, and salt when the lentils begin to soften.

In the meantime, put the flour in a small pan and gradually add 2 cups cold water, a little at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon to blend well and to avoid lumps. Put over a medium heat and stir constantly until the mixture thickens, then simmer for 10 minutes. Pour this batter into the soup, stirring vigorously, and cook for a few minutes, until the soup acquires a light, creamy texture.

If you are using the tiny pasta or vermicelli (crush the vermicelli with your hand into small pieces), add this to the soup 10 minutes or so from the end, adding the lemon juice, chopped cilantro, and parsley at the same time.

Serve with lemon wedges and, if you like, dates.

VARIATION Instead of meat, you can use 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, preferably thighs, and crumble in 3 chicken bouillon cubes.

CREAM of of DRIED FAVA BEAN SOUP DRIED FAVA BEAN SOUP Bessara Bessara is the name of the soup as well as a creamy paste, made in the same way but with less water (see Variation). You can buy the split and skinless dried fava beans in Asian and Middle Eastern stores. They look creamy white without their dried brown skins. is the name of the soup as well as a creamy paste, made in the same way but with less water (see Variation). You can buy the split and skinless dried fava beans in Asian and Middle Eastern stores. They look creamy white without their dried brown skins.

SERVES 4 1 cups split skinless dried fava beans, soaked overnight3 whole garlic cloves2 chicken bouillon cubes1 teaspoon ground c.u.min1 teaspoon paprikagood pinch of ground chili peppersaltTo serve: extra virgin olive oil; 2 lemons, cut into quarters Rinse and drain the soaked beans and put them in a pan with the garlic and 6 cups water. Simmer, covered, for about 1 hour. Crumble in the bouillon cubes and simmer another 30 minutes, or until the beans fall apart.

Still in the pot, mash the beans with a potato masher and add the c.u.min, paprika, and chili pepper and, if necessary, a little salt, bearing in mind the saltiness of the bouillon cubes. Stir thoroughly and cook a few minutes more. Add a little water if you would like to thin the soup. For a thicker soup, cook, uncovered, for a while longer.

When serving, pa.s.s around the olive oil for people to dribble onto their soup and the lemon quarters for them to squeeze over.

VARIATION Make a fava bean puree, using half the quant.i.ty of water. Serve it with little bowls of ground c.u.min, paprika, ground chili pepper, lemon juice, and extra virgin olive oil for people to sprinkle on their puree as they wish. Serve it as a dip with bread.

Main Courses The most common and most typical of the Moroccan main dishes, apart from couscous, is a braise or stew of chicken or meat called a tagine tagine, which takes its name from the clay pot in which it is cooked. In Morocco, these tagine tagines are served with bread, never with couscous. In the West, however, with the increasing popularity of Moroccan dishes, the grain is sometimes served as an accompaniment. In North African restaurants in Paris, it is not uncommon to accompany tagine tagines with a separate dish of the fine ground couscous called seffa seffa (see page 28), which comes decorated with lines of cinnamon and a few almonds or raisins. Many (see page 28), which comes decorated with lines of cinnamon and a few almonds or raisins. Many tagine tagines differ only by one or two main ingredients, such as the vegetable or the fruit, and often chicken and meat are interchangeable in the same recipe. Do try the different versions, because each is special and unique.

Tagines that marry meat or chicken with fruit, and are delicately flavored with saffron, ginger, and cinnamon and sometimes also honey, are celebratory dishes cooked on festive and special occasions. Many of these sweet tagine tagines originate in Fez, the oldest imperial city in Morocco, which was founded by Idriss I, who came from Baghdad with his Arab entourage in the eighth century. Fez kept its ties with Baghdad over many centuries and, in later times, the city became the refuge of Jews and Muslims chased from Andalusia. Its cooking is a fusion of culinary memories of the court of Harun al Ras.h.i.+d and those of Muslim Spain. Fez is now a city of artisans-dyers, tanners, weavers, potters, silver-smiths-crowded in a labyrinth of narrow streets in the medina. medina. Most of the grand old families have left for Rabat and Casablanca, but the city is still the intellectual, artistic, and religious capital of Morocco, and it boasts the most refined and exquisite cuisine. Most of the grand old families have left for Rabat and Casablanca, but the city is still the intellectual, artistic, and religious capital of Morocco, and it boasts the most refined and exquisite cuisine.

The long, slow cooking in a clay tagine tagine produces meat so tender that you can pull it off the bone with your fingers. A good alternative to a produces meat so tender that you can pull it off the bone with your fingers. A good alternative to a tagine tagine is a lidded, heavy-bottomed ca.s.serole or stainless steel pan. The meat most commonly used for is a lidded, heavy-bottomed ca.s.serole or stainless steel pan. The meat most commonly used for tagine tagines is boned shoulder of lamb. You may use other cuts of lamb such as the neck fillet, shank, or the leg. Veal or beef, which now sometimes replace lamb in Morocco, may also be used. The liquid in a tagine tagine must be almost completely reduced at the end, producing a rich, thick, and unctuous sauce. It is best to start with only a little water and to add more, if necessary, as you go along. If you have too much liquid at the end, you should lift out the meat and reduce the sauce over high heat. must be almost completely reduced at the end, producing a rich, thick, and unctuous sauce. It is best to start with only a little water and to add more, if necessary, as you go along. If you have too much liquid at the end, you should lift out the meat and reduce the sauce over high heat.

ROAST COD with with POTATOES POTATOES and and TOMATOES TOMATOES Hout Bi Batata Wa Tamatem The marinade and sauce called chermoula chermoula that gives the distinctive flavor to this dish is used in most Moroccan fish dishes, whether fried, steamed, or cooked in a that gives the distinctive flavor to this dish is used in most Moroccan fish dishes, whether fried, steamed, or cooked in a tagine. tagine. Every town, every family, has its own special combination of ingredients. Bream, haddock, and turbot can also be used. Every town, every family, has its own special combination of ingredients. Bream, haddock, and turbot can also be used.

SERVES 6 6 cod fillets (each weighing 7 to 8 ounces), skin left on saltFOR THE CHERMOULA CHERMOULA MARINADE AND SAUCE MARINADE AND SAUCE2/3 cup chopped coriander4 garlic cloves, crushed1 teaspoon ground c.u.min1 teaspoon ground paprika teaspoon ground chili pepper6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oiljuice of 1 lemon or 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar2 pounds new potatoes1 pound tomatoes, peeledextra virgin olive oil Slash the skin of the fish in a few places across the thickest part. This ensures that the fish does not curl, and cooks evenly. Sprinkle with salt.

Mix all the chermoula chermoula ingredients in a dish, and marinate the fish in half the quant.i.ty for about 30 minutes. ingredients in a dish, and marinate the fish in half the quant.i.ty for about 30 minutes.

Peel the potatoes, if you wish, and cut them into slices about inch thick, and the tomatoes into slices 1/3 inch thick. Brush the bottom of a baking dish with olive oil, put in the potatoes and tomatoes, and drizzle a little oil on top. Sprinkle with salt, then turn the vegetables so they are well seasoned and lightly coated all over with oil. Put the dish in a very hot oven preheated to 475F for 50 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. During the cooking, turn them over once so that the top ones bathe in the juice released by the tomatoes.

Take the potatoes and tomatoes out of the oven, place the fish fillets on top, skin side up, and return the dish to the oven. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through; it is cooked when the flesh flakes when you cut into the thickest part.

Just before serving, pour the remaining chermoula chermoula over the fish, letting it dribble onto the vegetables. over the fish, letting it dribble onto the vegetables.

DEEP - FRIED BREAM with CHERMOULA with CHERMOULA SAUCE SAUCE Hout Maqli Bil Chermoula This is good hot or cold and can be made well in advance. The best fish to use is bream, cod, haddock, or turbot.