Arabesque - A Taste Of Morocco, Turkey, And Lebanon Part 7

LAYERED CHEESE PIE Peynirli Borek This pie, made with fillo pastry, can be served hot as a first course, a tea-time savory, or as a snack. Milk sprinkled between the sheets gives it a lovely soft, moist texture. The most common cheese used in these pies is beyaz peynir, beyaz peynir, or "white cheese," which is salty and much like feta cheese. Another cheese called or "white cheese," which is salty and much like feta cheese. Another cheese called lor lor is like our cottage cheese. I like to use a mixture of the two. For this recipe, you will need large sheets of fillo; I used sheets measuring is like our cottage cheese. I like to use a mixture of the two. For this recipe, you will need large sheets of fillo; I used sheets measuring 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches. These are usually sold frozen and need to be defrosted for inches. These are usually sold frozen and need to be defrosted for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours (see page hours (see page 9 9 for information about fillo). for information about fillo).

SERVES ABOUT 8 7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork8 ounces cottage cheese2 eggs, lightly beatenblack pepperlarge bunch of flat-leaf parsley (2 to 3 ounces), chopped1 stick ( cup) b.u.t.ter, melted, or 1/3 cup vegetable oil14 ounces large fillo sheets cup milk1 egg yolk For the filling, mix the mashed feta, cottage cheese, and eggs thoroughly until well blended. Add pepper and stir in the chopped parsley.

Use a large rectangular or round pie dish, a little smaller than the sheets of fillo, and brush it with melted b.u.t.ter or oil. Place half the package of fillo (about 7 sheets), one on top of the other, at the bottom of the dish, brus.h.i.+ng each sheet with melted b.u.t.ter or oil and sprinkling each with about a tablespoon of milk. Let the sheets hang over the sides of the dish and press them into the corners with the pastry brush. If you are using a round dish, place the sheets so that the corners hang over in different places around the edge.

Spread the filling evenly on top. Then cover with the remaining sheets, brus.h.i.+ng each, including the top one, with melted b.u.t.ter or oil, and sprinkling all except the last two with a tablespoon of milk.

With a sharp, pointed knife trim the fillo around the edges, and score the top into 16 squares or diamonds with parallel lines, cutting only down to the filling, not right through to the bottom. Brush the top with egg yolk mixed with a drop of water.

Bake in the oven preheated to 350F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until crisp and golden. Serve hot, cutting along the scored lines, this time right through to the bottom.

CREAMY FILLO SPINACH PIE Ispanakli Tepsi Boregi This wonderful, creamy pie is somewhere between a savory flan and a spinach lasagne. The fillo turns into a soft, very thin pasta, so don't expect it to be crisp and papery. It sounds complicated, but it is quite easy and really worth the labor. I am sure you will be delighted by the result. It can be made in advance and reheated. The pie is excellent when cut up into small pieces and served at a party.Use a package of fillo containing large-size sheets. (I used a 14- 14- ounce package of sheets measuring ounce package of sheets measuring 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches, minus inches, minus 2 2 sheets.) The large sheets are usually sold frozen and you need to defrost them for sheets.) The large sheets are usually sold frozen and you need to defrost them for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours before using (see page hours before using (see page 9 9 for information about fillo). The Turkish for information about fillo). The Turkish kasar, kasar, a sharp hard cheese, can be found in Turkish stores but mature Cheddar is equally good for the dish. From the supermarket, you can now buy packages of young spinach leaves, washed and ready to use, but you can also use not-so-young spinach and remove any thick stems, or use frozen leaf spinach. a sharp hard cheese, can be found in Turkish stores but mature Cheddar is equally good for the dish. From the supermarket, you can now buy packages of young spinach leaves, washed and ready to use, but you can also use not-so-young spinach and remove any thick stems, or use frozen leaf spinach.

SERVES 8 1 pound young spinach leaves7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork4 eggs2/3 stick (or 5 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter2 cups milk12 ounces large fillo sheets7 ounces Turkish kasar kasar cheese or mature Cheddar, grated cheese or mature Cheddar, grated To make the filling, wash the spinach, removing stems only if they are thick and tough. Put them to steam in a large pan with 4 to 5 tablespoons water over medium heat, with the lid on. Within very few minutes they will have crumpled into a soft ma.s.s, so keep your eye on them. Strain well, then, when cool enough to handle, squeeze them dry, pressing all the water out with your hands. Still using your hands, mix the spinach into the mashed feta.

Beat the eggs with a fork in a large bowl. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a pan. When it has melted, pour in the milk and heat until it is warm, then gradually beat this into the eggs.

Grease a rectangular or square baking dish a little smaller than the sheets of fillo. Open the sheets only when you are ready to use them and keep them in a pile so that they do not dry out.

Lay a sheet in the greased baking dish, pressing it into the corners with a pastry brush and letting the edges come up the sides of the dish. Pour a little of the milk-b.u.t.ter-egg mixture-about 4 to 5 tablespoons or a little less than a standard ladleful-all over the sheet. (You will need a similar amount to pour between each sheet and a larger amount for the last one on top.) Sprinkle on a little of the grated kasar kasar or Cheddar. Lay a second sheet on top and repeat with the milk-b.u.t.ter-egg mixture and then the grated cheese. or Cheddar. Lay a second sheet on top and repeat with the milk-b.u.t.ter-egg mixture and then the grated cheese.

Continue until you have used about half the sheets, then spread the spinach filling evenly on top. To do this, press lumps of the spinach and feta mixture between the palms of your hands to flatten them and lay them side by side.

Continue laying sheets of fillo, pouring over each the milk mixture and sprinkling with cheese until you are left with 2 last sheets. With a sharp or fine, serrated knife, trim the edges of pastry around the sides of the dish. Lay the remaining 2 sheets on top of the pie, sprinkling the milk mixture and cheese between them and tucking them down the sides of the dish. If there is too much to tuck in, trim with scissors. Pour any remaining milk mixture over the top.

Bake the pie in the oven preheated to 350F for 30 to 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown-it puffs up and falls again. Serve hot, cut into pieces.

VARIATION For an all-cheese filling instead of the spinach, blend 7 ounces feta cheese with 7 ounces cottage cheese and mix in about 4 tablespoons chopped parsley or dill.

PUFF PASTRY SPINACH ROLL Ispanakli Borek For 6 to 8 people, use the same filling of spinach and feta cheese as in the Creamy Fillo Spinach Pie (page 179).

Cut 10 ounces puff pastry in half and roll each half into a long rectangle about 9 inches [.dotmath] 12 inches. Roll it out on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Keep turning the sheet of pastry over and over, dusting it with flour each time until it is very thin. Spread the filling in the middle in a band 9 to 9 inches wide to about 1 inch from the short ends at the top and bottom. Fold one side of the pastry over the filling, then fold the other side over the first, making a long parcel. Press the ends firmly to seal them. Place the two parcels on a greased baking dish, folded side down, brush with an egg yolk mixed with a drop of water, and bake in the oven preheated to 375F for 35 minutes, until puffed up and golden. Serve hot.

COLD YOGURT SOUP with with CHICKPEAS CHICKPEAS and and BULGUR BULGUR Yogurtlu Nohut corbasi I made notes about this recipe and a few others at Haci Abdullah's restaurant in Istanbul. It is a cool summer soup using rural staples, and it takes only minutes to make.

SERVES 6 cup bulgursalt4 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 tablespoons crushed, dried mint2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)one 14-ounce can chickpeas, drained Put the bulgur in a pan with 1 cup water and a little salt. Bring to the boil and cook, covered, over very low heat for about 10 minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the grain is tender. Let it cool.

Pour the yogurt into a serving bowl, beat in 1 cup cold water, and add the crushed mint and garlic, if using. Season with salt, and mix well. Stir in the drained chickpeas and the bulgur and serve.

BARLEY SOUP with with YOGURT YOGURT Yogurtlu corbasi This Anatolian peasant soup with the delicate flavor of mint and saffron is magnificent. I make it when I have a roast chicken carca.s.s or, better still, when I have two and have remembered to retain the cooking juices and melted fat.

SERVES 8 OR MORE 1 or 2 chicken carca.s.sessalt and white pepper1 large onion, chopped2 tablespoons vegetable oil2/3 cup pearl barleygood pinch of saffron threads2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley4 tablespoons chopped mint2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt Put the chicken carca.s.ses in a large pan with about 5 pints (11 cups) water. Add salt and pepper and boil for 1 hour or longer. Strain, and put back any little bits of chicken into the stock.

In the washed and dried pan, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the stock and any cooking juices and melted fat left over from the original roasting of the chicken. Bring to the boil, then add the barley. Crush the saffron threads with the back of a spoon on a little plate and stir them in. Simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes, or until the barley is swollen and tender. Add the chopped parsley and mint and adjust the seasoning, but remember the yogurt will add a little needed sharpness.

Just before serving, beat the yogurt in a bowl with a few ladles of the soup. Then pour the yogurt mixture into the soup, beating vigorously, and heat to just below boiling, stirring constantly. Do not allow the soup to boil, or it will curdle.

TOMATO and and RICE SOUP RICE SOUP Domatesli Pirinc corbasi For this fresh-tasting soup, I blend the tomatoes to a cream in the food processor without peeling them and cook them only a little. The egg and lemon finish gives it a creamy texture. The rice should be cooked separately and added just before serving as it goes mushy if it stays too long in the soup. Spearmint is commonly used but you can use other types of mint.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1/3 cup basmati or long-grain rice2 chicken bouillon cubes2 pounds ripe tomatoessalt and black pepper3 teaspoons sugar, or to taste2 sprigs of spearmint, finely chopped1 eggjuice of lemon First, cook the rice. If using basmati rice, wash it in a bowl of cold water, then drain and rinse under cold running water. Pour it into plenty of boiling salted water and cook for about 20 minutes, until just tender. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or pre-cooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Drain and keep it to one side until you are ready to serve.

In a large pan bring to the boil 1 cups water with the crumbled chicken bouillon cubes.

Without peeling them, cut the tomatoes into quarters and remove the hard white bits near the stem end. Blend to a light cream in the food processor and add to the pan. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar and add the chopped mint. Mix well and simmer for 5 minutes.

Just before serving, stir in the rice, adding a little water if the soup is too thick, and bring to the boil. In a little bowl, beat the egg with the lemon juice. Add a ladle of the soup to the egg, beat well, pour it into the soup, stirring vigorously for a few seconds, only until it becomes creamy, then quickly take it off the heat. Do not let it boil again, or the egg will set.

PUMPKIN SOUP Kabak corbasi This is the simplest ever pumpkin soup where the pure, sweet taste of pumpkin is married with the slightly sharp one of yogurt. The large orange-fleshed pumpkins are winter vegetables, but you can find them throughout the year in Asian and Middle Eastern stores, sold by the slice, with their seeds and fibers removed, and wrapped in plastic wrap.

SERVES 4 2 pounds pumpkin4 cups chicken stock (or use 2 bouillon cubes)1 to 2 teaspoons sugarsalt and black pepperTo serve: 1 cup plain whole-milk or strained Greek-style yogurt, at room temperature Remove the peel and any seeds and fiber from the pumpkin and cut the flesh into pieces. The peel is extremely hard and you have to cut it away by laying the slices or chunks flat on a board, cut side down, and then pressing down with a large heavy knife to cut the skin off.

Put the pieces in a large pan with only about 1 cups stock (it will not cover the pieces), and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender.

Blend to a puree in the food processor, or mash it with a potato masher, and return to the pan. Add the remaining stock, the sugar, and a little salt and pepper, and cook for a few minutes more, adding water to thin the soup, if necessary.

Serve the soup hot, and pa.s.s around the yogurt in a bowl for people to help themselves.

Main Courses Meat-lamb or mutton-cooked in a variety of ways, is the prestige food of Turkey. Chicken comes second. Fish and seafood were always appreciated in the coastal cities, especially in Istanbul and Izmir, but, apart from a few esteemed fish, they were considered poor man's food and were bought from vendors and eaten in the street. At night at the top of the Bosphorus, a thousand lights glittered on the sea from the little boats of menfolk fis.h.i.+ng for their families. It is only in the last twenty years, since fish restaurants have proliferated in response to demand by foreign tourists, that they have become enormously popular with the local population. It seems surprising in a country surrounded by three large seas-the Black Sea, the Aegean, and the Mediterranean, as well as the smaller Sea of Marmara-that fish does not enjoy equal status to meat, even though it is more expensive. One suggestion is that for a people with atavistic tastes born in the steppe lands of Central Asia, it was not easy to incorporate the produce of the sea in their culinary traditions.

Many years ago I asked the head of the a.s.sociation of Turkish Chefs why meat was so important in Turkey. He replied that in Ottoman times, Islamic law allowed men to have four wives, and they were obliged to satisfy them all equally and that required a great deal of strength and energy so they had to eat a lot of meat! A certain sultan, he said, was reputed to have habitually eaten a whole lamb at one sitting. I suspect he was pulling my leg.

Meat is the food cooked when people entertain, but the majority of the population can rarely afford it and lives mainly on bulgur, rice, pulses, and vegetables. Rice pilaf is eaten almost every day in the cities, sometimes for both lunch and supper, either as an accompaniment or as a substantial main course. As well as being a staple meal, it has always been considered a grand dish of celebration. There is no wedding without a rice pilaf. Bulgur pilaf is more common than rice in rural homes since Anatolia is wheat country.

SMOKED MACKEREL with with WALNUT SAUCE WALNUT SAUCE Taratorlu Usk.u.mru This can be served as a first course or as a cold main course with pickles, sliced red onions, and a green salad. Cold-smoked mackerel is soft and moist and more of a delicacy than the hot-smoked variety. Hazelnuts, almonds, or pine nuts can be used as an alternative to walnuts for this cla.s.sic sauce, which is called tarator. tarator. In that case, white bread should be used. The sauce can also be served with poached or grilled fish or with cold vegetables cooked in olive oil. In that case, white bread should be used. The sauce can also be served with poached or grilled fish or with cold vegetables cooked in olive oil.

SERVES 4 FOR THE SAUCE1 cup walnut halves3 slices whole wheat bread, crusts removed2 garlic cloves, crushed6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 tablespoons white wine vinegarsalt2 cold-smoked mackerel1 lemon, cut in quarters Make the sauce first. Grind the walnuts in the food processor, then add the bread, previously soaked in water and squeezed dry, and the garlic, and blend together. Add the oil and vinegar, a little salt, and blend with just enough water (about 4 tablespoons) to produce a creamy consistency.

Skin and fillet the fish and serve with the sauce and lemon quarters.

DEEP - FRIED RED MULLET with with GARLIC AND PARSLEY GARLIC AND PARSLEY Barbunya Tavasi Deep-frying is the most popular way of cooking small-to medium-size whole fish, and red mullet (barbunya (barbunya ) are among the most prized. Garlic and parsley enhance their sweet flesh. Ask the fishmonger to clean the fish, but to leave the head on. Serve them with salad or Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil, Scallions, and Parsley (see page ) are among the most prized. Garlic and parsley enhance their sweet flesh. Ask the fishmonger to clean the fish, but to leave the head on. Serve them with salad or Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil, Scallions, and Parsley (see page 168 168 ). ).

SERVES 4 4 red mullet (weighing about 9 to 12 ounces each)5 garlic cloves, crushedsalt and black pepper6 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleyflourolive oil, for fryingTo serve: 1 lemon, cut in quarters Rub the fish with about a quarter of the crushed garlic mixed with salt and pepper, then stuff them with 5 tablespoons of chopped parsley mixed with the remaining garlic and a little salt and pepper.

Roll the fish in flour until they are well covered and deep-fry in sizzling olive oil for about 4 to 5 minutes. Then lift them out and drain on paper towels.

Serve sprinkled with the remaining parsley, accompanied by lemon quarters.

GRILLED SEA Ba.s.s FLAMBeED with RAKI with RAKI Raki Soslu Levrek Raki, the Turkish national spirit, gives the grilled sea ba.s.s a faint anise aroma. Arak, ouzo, and even Pernod can be used instead. Other fish such as bream, turbot, and red mullet can be prepared in the same way. the Turkish national spirit, gives the grilled sea ba.s.s a faint anise aroma. Arak, ouzo, and even Pernod can be used instead. Other fish such as bream, turbot, and red mullet can be prepared in the same way.

SERVES 4 4 fillets sea ba.s.s (weighing about 2 pounds), skin on4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and black pepper4 tablespoons raki raki Brush both sides of the fillets with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Arrange the fish on a piece of foil in a heat-proof dish, skin side up, and place them under a preheated broiler. Cook for about 4 minutes, or until the skin is crisp and brown and the flesh just beginning to flake when you cut into the thickest part with a pointed knife.

Take the fish from under the broiler, pour over the raki raki, and set light to it. Serve immediately when all the flames have died down, sprinkling on the remaining olive oil.

SEARED TUNA with with LEMON DRESSING LEMON DRESSING Izgara Orkinoz Olive oil and lemon with parsley or dill is the standard dressing in Turkey for all grilled and fried fish. The best way to eat tuna is rare-simply seared, with the flesh inside still pink, and almost raw. Serve it with a salad or Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil, Scallions, and Parsley (see page 168 168 ). ).

SERVES 4 juice of 1 lemonsalt and black pepper6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley or dill4 thick tuna steaks For the dressing, mix the lemon juice, salt and pepper, and 4 tablespoons olive oil, then stir in the chopped parsley or dill.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large, preferably nonstick, skillet. Put in the tuna steaks and cook them over high heat for less than 1 minute on each side, sprinkling them lightly with salt. To test for doneness, cut into one with a pointed knife; the time depends on the thickness of the steak. It should be uncooked and red inside. If you prefer it less rare, cook it only a tiny bit longer. You can easily spoil tuna by overcooking it.

Serve the tuna steaks with the dressing poured over.

CHICKEN with with PLUMS PLUMS Erikli Tavuk This is a dish of Georgian origin. Georgia, which borders on northwest Turkey, is famous for its plum trees and plum sauces. Our slightly sour, dark red plums will do well.

SERVES 6 6 boneless, skinless chicken pieces, b.r.e.a.s.t.s or thighs2 to 3 garlic cloves, chopped2 to 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon sunflower oilsalt and pepper9 dark red plumsFOR THE SAUCE4 tablespoons plum jam1 tablespoon red or white wine vinegar1 garlic clove, crushedpinch of chili pepper flakes or ground chili pepper In a large skillet, saute the chicken pieces with the garlic in a mixture of b.u.t.ter and oil, over low heat. Cook them for about 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are no longer pink inside when you cut in with a pointed knife. Season with salt and pepper, and turn the pieces over at least once.

Just before serving, cut the plums in half and ease out the pits. Lift out the chicken pieces and put them on one side while you saute the plums. Cook them for 7 to 10 minutes, turning them over once, until they soften. Return the chicken pieces to the pan and heat through.

For the sauce, heat the plum jam with the vinegar in a small saucepan, stir in the garlic and chili flakes or ground chili pepper and cook for a few moments longer.

Serve the chicken pieces with the sauce poured over, and garnish with the plums.

RICE PILAF Pilav This is the basic recipe for the rice that accompanies grills and stews. Although long-grain rice is more commonly used, basmati is today preferred by gourmets. It is my preferred rice for pilaf. It has an appealing taste and aroma, and the grains stay light, fluffy, and separate. You can use water or stock. It is best to use real chicken stock, if possible, but stock made with bouillon cubes will do very well, too; use 1 1 cubes with cubes with 3 3 cups water. cups water.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 cups basmati or long-grain rice3 cups water or chicken stock2/3 stick (5 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter salt Wash the rice (American long-grain does not need was.h.i.+ng). Pour cold water over it in a bowl, stir well, and leave it to soak for a few minutes, then strain and rinse under cold running water.

Bring the water or stock to the boil in a pan. Put in the b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces, and when it has melted, pour in the drained rice. Stir well, bring to the boil, and cook gently over very low heat, tightly covered and undisturbed, for 18 to 20 minutes, until the rice is tender, the water has been absorbed, and little holes have appeared on the surface. Add a little extra water if it becomes too dry. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Turn out and fluff up the grains with a fork. If you need to reheat the rice, put it, covered, in the oven for 15 minutes, or until it is really hot.

VARIATION For rice with chickpeas, nohutlu pilav nohutlu pilav, prepare the rice as above. Fry 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons sunflower oil until soft. Add the drained chickpeas from a 14-ounce can and heat through, then mix them into the rice.

This dish has a place in Ottoman folklore. At the Topkapi Palace, in the time of Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror (he captured Constantinople in 1453), a little gold ball in the shape of a chickpea would be hidden in the rice, creating excitement with the guests, each hoping to find it on their plate.

CHICKEN with with TOMATO PILAF TOMATO PILAF Tavuk Ve Domatesli Pilav Sauteed chicken kebabs are more tender and juicy than the grilled ones on skewers, which are served in kebab houses. Accompany these with tomato pilaf and a Cuc.u.mber and Yogurt Salad (see page 156 156 ). The dark, wine-red spice called sumac (see page ). The dark, wine-red spice called sumac (see page 7 7 ) lends a sharp lemony taste to the chicken. ) lends a sharp lemony taste to the chicken.

SERVES 4 FOR THE TOMATO PILAF1 cups basmati or long-grain rice1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled1 chicken bouillon cube2 teaspoons sugarsalt and black pepper stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, cut in small pieces4 boneless, skinless chicken pieces, b.r.e.a.s.t.s or thighs1 tablespoon sunflower oil2 tablespoons b.u.t.tersalt and black pepper2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsleyTo garnish: 1 lemon, quartered, or sumac Start by making the tomato pilaf. If using basmati, wash the rice by pouring cold water over it in a bowl, stir well, and leave to soak for a few minutes, then strain and rinse under cold water.

Quarter the tomatoes, remove the hard white bits near the stem end, then liquefy the tomatoes in the food processor. Measure the resulting tomato juice and add enough water to make it up to 22/3 cups. Pour it into a pan, add the crumbled stock cube, the sugar, and a little salt and pepper and bring to the boil.

Add the rice and stir well. Simmer, covered, over low heat, for 18 to 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Do not stir during the cooking, but add a little extra water if it becomes too dry. Fold in the b.u.t.ter pieces. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary.

While the rice is cooking, cut the chicken into 1-inch pieces. Heat the oil and b.u.t.ter in a skillet and saute the chicken for 6 to 8 minutes, until lightly browned, adding salt and pepper, turning the pieces over once. Sprinkle the chicken with parsley and serve with lemon quarters or with sumac to sprinkle over, accompanied by the rice.

ROAST CHICKEN with with PINE NUT PINE NUT and and RAISIN PILAF RAISIN PILAF Pilavli Ve Tavuk Firinda Many of the dishes popular in the court kitchens in Constantinople during the Ottoman period spread throughout the empire. This pilaf is one of the cla.s.sics that you find in all the cities that were once the outposts of the empire. It goes particularly well as an accompaniment to roast chicken and it also often forms a stuffing for the bird.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 large chicken2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil salt and pepperFOR THE PILAF2 cups basmati or long-grain rice1 large onion, chopped3 tablespoons sunflower oil cup pine nuts3 cups chicken stock (or use 1 bouillon cubes) teaspoon ground allspice1 teaspoon ground cinnamonsalt and pepper3 tablespoons currants or tiny black raisins to 2/3 stick (4 to 5 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces Rub the chicken with a mixture of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Put it breast side down in a roasting pan so that the fat runs down, which prevents the b.r.e.a.s.t.s from drying out. Add 4 tablespoons of water to the bottom of the pan. Roast for 1 hour in an oven preheated to 400F, then turn the chicken breast side up and continue to cook for about 30 minutes (the time depends on the size of the chicken), or until it is well done and the skin is crisp and brown.

While the chicken is cooking, prepare the pilaf. Wash the rice if it is basmati. Pour cold water over it, stir well, and leave to soak for a few minutes. Strain and rinse under cold running water.

In a large pan, fry the onion in the oil until soft and golden. Add the pine nuts and stir until lightly colored. Add the rice and stir over a moderate heat until it is well coated with the oil. Then add the hot stock and stir in the allspice, cinnamon, salt (you need to take into consideration the saltiness of the stock), pepper, and the currants or raisins. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered and undisturbed, over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the water absorbed. Add a little extra water if it looks necessary.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter, check the seasoning, and add salt, if necessary. Serve hot with the chicken.

ROAST CHICKEN with with BULGUR BULGUR and and WALNUT PILAF WALNUT PILAF Tavuk Firinda Ve Bulgur Pilav Bulgur pilaf is an everyday dish in rural Turkey. Bulgur is whole wheat kernels that have been boiled, then dried and ground. In the old days in rural areas, before mechanization, and still today in some parts, it is made collectively. The men harvest the wheat, then the women separate the grain from the chaff. They wash the grain and boil it for hours in huge pots until it splits. It is then dried in the sun, spread out on large sheets laid out on the flat roofs of houses or in the fields. When it is dry and hard, it is taken to be ground in a stone mill. Three types of grind-coa.r.s.e, medium, and fine-can be found in Middle Eastern stores in this country. The coa.r.s.e-ground one is the best for pilaf, but the medium-ground one, which is the most widely available, will also do.The amount of bulgur here is quite large and enough for 2 2 chickens. You can make it in advance and reheat it in the oven before serving. chickens. You can make it in advance and reheat it in the oven before serving.

SERVES 8 2 chickens3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and pepperFOR THE BULGUR PILAF3 cups coa.r.s.e or medium bulgur1 large onion, chopped2 tablespoons sunflower oil4 cups chicken stock (or use 1 bouillon cubes)salt and pepper1 teaspoons ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground allspice1 cups walnuts, coa.r.s.ely chopped2/3 to 1 stick (5 to 8 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces Rub the chickens with a mixture of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Put them breast side down in a roasting pan so that the fat runs down, which prevents the b.r.e.a.s.t.s from drying out. Add cup of water to the bottom of the pan. Roast for 1 hour in an oven pre-heated to 400F, then turn the chickens breast side up and continue to cook for about 30 minutes, depending on their size, until they are well done and the skin is crisp and brown.

While the chickens are cooking, prepare the pilaf. Wash the bulgur-although I find that with the processed qualities of bulgur today, this is not strictly necessary. Pour cold water over it, stir well, and then rinse under cold running water. Fry the onion in the oil until it is soft and golden. Add the bulgur, stir well, then pour in the hot stock. Add salt (taking into consideration the saltiness of the stock), pepper, cinnamon, and all-spice. Stir and cook, covered and undisturbed, over very low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed and the grain is tender. Check the seasoning and add salt if necessary. Finally, fold in the walnuts and the b.u.t.ter pieces.

Carve the chicken and serve with the bulgur pilaf.

CHICKEN PILAF in a in a PIE PIE Perdeli Pilav Perdeli pilav means "veiled pilaf." The veil is a pastry crust in the shape of a dome. It takes time and care, but if you like artistry and dramatic effects, it is very worth making. Much of it can be made in advance, but the last bit-encasing the chicken and rice in puff pastry-must be done as close as possible to serving. means "veiled pilaf." The veil is a pastry crust in the shape of a dome. It takes time and care, but if you like artistry and dramatic effects, it is very worth making. Much of it can be made in advance, but the last bit-encasing the chicken and rice in puff pastry-must be done as close as possible to serving.

SERVES 6 1 chicken2 tablespoons sunflower oilsalt and black pepper1 medium onion, quartered1 cups basmati or long-grain rice1 chicken bouillon cubes stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces1/3 cup pistachio nuts, very coa.r.s.ely chopped1/3 cup blanched almonds, very coa.r.s.ely chopped1 pound puff pastry1 egg, separated

The chicken is roasted and the carca.s.s is used to make a broth that is served to accompany the pie. Rub the chicken with the oil, salt, and pepper. Put it breast side down in a roasting pan so that the fat runs down, which prevents the b.r.e.a.s.t.s from drying out. Add 4 tablespoons of water to the bottom of the pan. Roast for 45 minutes in an oven pre-heated to 400F, then turn the chicken breast side up and continue to cook for 20 minutes more; it should be a little underdone.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, cut it up into 6 large pieces and remove the skin and bones, which should be kept for the broth. Cut any remaining meat from the carca.s.s into small pieces. Keep all this covered with plastic wrap so it does not dry out. Keep the chicken juices and the fat from the roasting pan for the rice.

Put the skin, bones, and carca.s.s into a pan with the onion, cover with water, add a little salt, and simmer for 1 hour, until the broth is reduced and concentrated, then strain it. This will be the "sauce" to accompany the pie.

Wash the rice, if using basmati. Pour cold water over it, stir, and leave to soak for a few minutes, then strain and rinse in cold running water. Bring 2 cups water to the boil with the crumbled bouillon cubes, add the rice, and stir well. Add salt, taking into consideration the saltiness of the bouillon cubes. Cook, covered and undisturbed, over very low heat for about 18 minutes, until the rice is only just tender. (Some brands that claim not to be parboiled or precooked now take as little as 8 to 10 minutes, so read the information on the package.) Pour in the chicken juices and the fat from the roasting pan, and add the reserved small pieces of chicken. Fold in the b.u.t.ter, pistachios, and almonds. Taste to see that there is enough salt because rice needs quite a bit. The rice, too, can be prepared in advance.

a.s.semble the pie not too long before your guests arrive. Roll out the puff pastry so that it is a large rectangle measuring 14 inches [.dotmath] 16 inches on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin, turning the sheet of pastry often and dusting it with flour. Lift it onto a large, flat baking dish or sheet. Put the rice in the center and shape it into a dome, with a base about 10 inches in diameter. Arrange the 6 large chicken pieces on top. Bring the pastry up over the rice and chicken mound, bringing up the four corners to meet at the top, and twisting them together. Now comes the artful part-you have to make it look like an Ottoman dome!

Bring the edges of the pastry together to close the side openings, right up to the top of the dome, hugging the filling. Cut away the excess dough, and seal the four openings by pinching them firmly together. A little egg white brushed along the edges makes them stick better. By pinching and twisting all the way along the edges, produce a scalloped effect (like the hem of women's lingerie). It is the kind of edging you find along many Middle Eastern pies. Cut a little round about 1 inches in diameter from the off-cuts and stick it on the top of the dome, with a little egg white, to cover up the joins.

Brush the whole pastry with the egg yolk mixed with a drop of water, and bake in an oven preheated to 350F for 45 minutes, or until the pastry is crisp and golden brown.

Serve with the strained and reheated chicken broth.