Kneadlessly Simple Part 10

Infused with fresh, roasted garlic and punched up with a little Parmesan, this is a whole different animal from the typical commercial loaf peppered with garlic salt. The flavor of the roasted herb is much more subtle, earthy, and appetizing. And the cheese gives the bread a beautiful golden hue, crisp crust, and characteristic Parmesan aroma. Be sure that both the garlic and cheese are fresh and of good quality, as they are what makes (or breaks) this bread. Even if you love garlic, curb the impulse to add extra; too much of it can inhibit the yeast growth.

If you're a fan of pesto, you can add a couple tablespoons to the dough for a handsome, basil-flecked bread; see the variation at the end. Homemade pesto is best, but a high-quality commercial pesto will suffice.

The bread is lovely cut into thick slices and served with a bowl of minestrone, spaghetti, or any other Mediterranean-style dish or meal. The slices are also good grilled or toasted and used for crostini. Top with an eggplant or olive spread for a memorable munchie even vegetarians can enjoy.

Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices1 large head (k.n.o.b) garlic1 tablespoon good-quality olive oil, plus more for brus.h.i.+ng dough cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish4 cups (20 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour, plus more as neededScant 2 teaspoons table salt1 teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2 cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if neededPreliminaries Peel off and discard the papery outer skin from the garlic but do not separate or pull off the cloves. Cut across the pointed tops of the cloves to expose the flesh inside; discard the cut-off portion. Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small ovenproof custard cup or small bowl. Dip the cut side of the garlic into the oil to coat the cloves, then turn the head cut-side up and set in the cup. Cover the cup with foil. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the garlic is very soft and fragrant. Let cool, then squeeze or sc.r.a.pe out the garlic from the cloves into a medium bowl. Add cup of Parmesan and thoroughly mash with a fork until the mixture forms a paste. The paste may be made several days ahead and refrigerated; let warm up slightly and stir before using. Peel off and discard the papery outer skin from the garlic but do not separate or pull off the cloves. Cut across the pointed tops of the cloves to expose the flesh inside; discard the cut-off portion. Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small ovenproof custard cup or small bowl. Dip the cut side of the garlic into the oil to coat the cloves, then turn the head cut-side up and set in the cup. Cover the cup with foil. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the garlic is very soft and fragrant. Let cool, then squeeze or sc.r.a.pe out the garlic from the cloves into a medium bowl. Add cup of Parmesan and thoroughly mash with a fork until the mixture forms a paste. The paste may be made several days ahead and refrigerated; let warm up slightly and stir before using.

First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir the water and the garlic mixture into the bowl, sc.r.a.ping down the sides and mixing until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. If necessary, stir in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough once partway through the rise. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir the water and the garlic mixture into the bowl, sc.r.a.ping down the sides and mixing until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. If necessary, stir in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough once partway through the rise.

Second Rise Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center, working all the way around, avoiding deflating as much as possible. Brush or spray with olive oil. Re-cover with nonstick spray- coated plastic wrap. Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center, working all the way around, avoiding deflating as much as possible. Brush or spray with olive oil. Re-cover with nonstick spray- coated plastic wrap.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from the deflated size, removing the plastic if the dough nears it. For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from the deflated size, removing the plastic if the dough nears it.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450F. Oil the inside of a 3- to 4-quart (or slightly larger) Dutch oven or heavy metal pot. Heat it in the oven until it just starts to smoke, then remove it (use oven mitts). Taking care not to deflate the dough, loosen it from the bowl sides with an oiled rubber spatula and gently invert it into the pot. Don't worry if it's lopsided and ragged-looking; it will even out during baking. Spritz or brush the top with water, then sprinkle over 2 tablespoons of Parmesan. Immediately top with the lid. Shake the pot back and forth to center and even out the dough. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 450F. Oil the inside of a 3- to 4-quart (or slightly larger) Dutch oven or heavy metal pot. Heat it in the oven until it just starts to smoke, then remove it (use oven mitts). Taking care not to deflate the dough, loosen it from the bowl sides with an oiled rubber spatula and gently invert it into the pot. Don't worry if it's lopsided and ragged-looking; it will even out during baking. Spritz or brush the top with water, then sprinkle over 2 tablespoons of Parmesan. Immediately top with the lid. Shake the pot back and forth to center and even out the dough.

Baking Reduce the heat to 425F. Bake on the lower rack for 45 to 50 minutes. If the loaf is golden brown, continue baking, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207 to 208F on an instant-read thermometer.) If the loaf top looks pale after the initial 45 to 50 minutes, uncover and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown. Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Run a table knife around the loaf to loosen it. Transfer it to the rack; cool thoroughly. Reduce the heat to 425F. Bake on the lower rack for 45 to 50 minutes. If the loaf is golden brown, continue baking, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207 to 208F on an instant-read thermometer.) If the loaf top looks pale after the initial 45 to 50 minutes, uncover and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown. Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Run a table knife around the loaf to loosen it. Transfer it to the rack; cool thoroughly.

Tip Most pot breads won't stick to their baking containers, but cheese breads sometimes do. That's why this recipe calls for oiling the pot before preheating it. Most pot breads won't stick to their baking containers, but cheese breads sometimes do. That's why this recipe calls for oiling the pot before preheating it.

Serving and Storing The loaf tastes good warm but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. The loaf tastes good warm but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Variation Crispy Roasted Garlic-Pesto Pot Bread After mas.h.i.+ng the garlic and the Parmesan into a paste, mix in 3 tablespoons homemade or commercial pesto until well blended. Proceed exactly as for the original bread.

Rustic Cyprus-Style Herbed Olive Bread KS Quotient Easy: All ingredients added at once. No hand-shaping. Easy: All ingredients added at once. No hand-shaping.

Herbed olive breads often feature rosemary, and sometimes oregano or thyme, but this unusual, wonderfully savory Cypriot version goes in a deliciously different direction with chopped fresh cilantro, mint, and chives. The bread surface is crackly crisp, but the olive-studded inside is tender and almost soft, due to the ample addition of olive oil. The loaf is a large, s.h.a.ggy-looking round with a slightly open texture. Wedges or chunks are pretty irresistible "plain," and sumptuous dunked in olive oil.

You'll need a Dutch oven or similar heavy pot or deep, flat-bottomed ca.s.serole for baking this bread. See chapter Getting Started: Basic KnowHow, Ingredients, and Troubleshooting Getting Started: Basic KnowHow, Ingredients, and Troubleshooting if you aren't sure what to use. if you aren't sure what to use.

Yield: 1 large loaf, 14 to 15 wedges or slices4 cups (21.25 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour, preferably unbleached, plus more as needed1 teaspoons table salt teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2 cups ice water, plus more if needed3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or finely chopped scallion tops cup good-quality olive oil, plus more for brus.h.i.+ng dough top1 cup thoroughly drained, chopped (pitted) Kalamata olivesAbout 3 tablespoons cornmeal for dusting baking potFirst Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, vigorously whisk together the water, cilantro, mint, and chives. Stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour until the dough is just lightly mixed. Then add the olive oil, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides and mixing until thoroughly blended. The dough should be very stiff; if necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it. Gently stir in the olives until evenly distributed throughout. Brush the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, vigorously whisk together the water, cilantro, mint, and chives. Stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour until the dough is just lightly mixed. Then add the olive oil, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides and mixing until thoroughly blended. The dough should be very stiff; if necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it. Gently stir in the olives until evenly distributed throughout. Brush the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Second Rise Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center all the way around until thoroughly loosened from the bowl; don't deflate any more than necessary. Evenly brush the inside of a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot or large, deep, flat-bottomed ovenproof ca.s.serole with olive oil. Add the cornmeal, then tip the pot back and forth to distribute it on the sides. Invert the dough into the pot; don't worry if it's ragged-looking or lopsided. Shake the pot to center the dough. Brush the surface with olive oil. Top the pot with its lid. Using an oiled rubber spatula, lift and fold the dough in towards the center all the way around until thoroughly loosened from the bowl; don't deflate any more than necessary. Evenly brush the inside of a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot or large, deep, flat-bottomed ovenproof ca.s.serole with olive oil. Add the cornmeal, then tip the pot back and forth to distribute it on the sides. Invert the dough into the pot; don't worry if it's ragged-looking or lopsided. Shake the pot to center the dough. Brush the surface with olive oil. Top the pot with its lid.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough has doubled from its deflated size. For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough has doubled from its deflated size.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475F. 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475F.

Baking Reduce the oven temperature to 425F. Bake on the lower rack, covered, for 55 to 60 minutes or until crisp and lightly browned. Brush the loaf with olive oil and continue to bake, uncovered, testing until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207 to 208F on an instant-read thermometer), 12 to 15 minutes longer. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to ensure that the center is done. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the loaf and remove it to the rack; let cool completely. Reduce the oven temperature to 425F. Bake on the lower rack, covered, for 55 to 60 minutes or until crisp and lightly browned. Brush the loaf with olive oil and continue to bake, uncovered, testing until the top is well browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 207 to 208F on an instant-read thermometer), 12 to 15 minutes longer. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to ensure that the center is done. Cool in the pot on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Run a knife around the loaf and remove it to the rack; let cool completely.

Serving and Storing This loaf tastes good warm, but will cut better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. This loaf tastes good warm, but will cut better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Swedish Limpa Bread (Swedish Rye Bread with Caraway and Anise Seeds) KS QuotientFairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping required.

This began as a traditional recipe e-mailed to me by a reader of a story I wrote for the Was.h.i.+ngton Post Was.h.i.+ngton Post on no-knead breads. The writer, Suzy Hubbell, wondered if I could make over a family favorite, her grandmother Anna Danielson's Swedish limpa bread, to fit the knead-free method. Several other people wanted to their recipes converted, too, which eventually led me to provide suggestions on how to go about it in a bonus chapter in the book (see chapter on no-knead breads. The writer, Suzy Hubbell, wondered if I could make over a family favorite, her grandmother Anna Danielson's Swedish limpa bread, to fit the knead-free method. Several other people wanted to their recipes converted, too, which eventually led me to provide suggestions on how to go about it in a bonus chapter in the book (see chapter Kneadlessly Simple Recipe Makeover Guide: How to Convert Traditional Yeast Recipes to the KS Method Kneadlessly Simple Recipe Makeover Guide: How to Convert Traditional Yeast Recipes to the KS Method).

Making over this slightly sweet bread was well worth the effort. The caraway and anise seeds in combination with mola.s.ses, brown sugar, and rye flour give it a mild yet enticing flavor that even those who don't care for rye bread usually like. I find it truly addictive, especially toasted and topped with b.u.t.ter.

Yield: 2 medium loaves, 12 to 14 slices each3 cups (17.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour2 cups (10 ounces) rye flour, plus cup (2.5 ounces), plus more as needed2 teaspoons table salt1 teaspoons caraway seeds1 teaspoons anise seeds1 teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2/3 cup light or dark mola.s.ses (not blackstrap) cup corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil2 cups ice water, plus more if needed1/3 cup good-quality instant nonfat dry milk (don't use a generic brand)1/3 cup packed light brown sugar3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted, dividedFirst Rise In a very large bowl, thoroughly stir together the white flour, 2 cups of the rye flour, the salt, caraway seeds, anise seeds, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk the mola.s.ses and the oil into the water until well blended. Vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flours, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If too dry to mix completely, a bit at a time, add in enough more ice water to blend the ingredients and yield a firm but not hard-to-stir dough. Brush or evenly spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a very large bowl, thoroughly stir together the white flour, 2 cups of the rye flour, the salt, caraway seeds, anise seeds, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk the mola.s.ses and the oil into the water until well blended. Vigorously stir the mixture into the bowl with the flours, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If too dry to mix completely, a bit at a time, add in enough more ice water to blend the ingredients and yield a firm but not hard-to-stir dough. Brush or evenly spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Second Rise In a small, deep bowl, stir together the dry milk, brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with 1 tablespoons hot water until well blended. Gradually stir the milk mixture, then cup of the rye flour, into the dough until well blended and no streaks remain; the mixture will be hard to stir, so you may prefer to work in the flour with well-oiled fingertips (or use a dough hook and heavy-duty mixer on low). If necessary, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more rye flour, as the dough should be very stiff. Cut the dough in half with well-oiled kitchen shears. Put the dough portions in two 8 x 4-inch well-oiled loaf pans. Lightly brush the tops with some of the remaining melted b.u.t.ter. Smooth and press the dough evenly into the pans, tucking it under at the ends. Brush with more b.u.t.ter. Cover the tops with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap. In a small, deep bowl, stir together the dry milk, brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with 1 tablespoons hot water until well blended. Gradually stir the milk mixture, then cup of the rye flour, into the dough until well blended and no streaks remain; the mixture will be hard to stir, so you may prefer to work in the flour with well-oiled fingertips (or use a dough hook and heavy-duty mixer on low). If necessary, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more rye flour, as the dough should be very stiff. Cut the dough in half with well-oiled kitchen shears. Put the dough portions in two 8 x 4-inch well-oiled loaf pans. Lightly brush the tops with some of the remaining melted b.u.t.ter. Smooth and press the dough evenly into the pans, tucking it under at the ends. Brush with more b.u.t.ter. Cover the tops with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or, for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the plastic, remove it and continue the rise until the dough extends inch above the pan rims. For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or, for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the plastic, remove it and continue the rise until the dough extends inch above the pan rims.

Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F. 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F.

Baking Reduce the oven temperature to 325F. Bake on the lower rack for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the loaves are very well browned. Cover the tops with foil and continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes longer, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with slightly moist crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 202 to 204F on an instant-read thermometer). Bake for about 10 minutes longer to ensure the centers are done. Brush the loaf tops evenly with the remaining melted b.u.t.ter. Cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Run a knife around the loaves to loosen, then turn out onto the racks. Let cool thoroughly. Reduce the oven temperature to 325F. Bake on the lower rack for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the loaves are very well browned. Cover the tops with foil and continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes longer, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with slightly moist crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 202 to 204F on an instant-read thermometer). Bake for about 10 minutes longer to ensure the centers are done. Brush the loaf tops evenly with the remaining melted b.u.t.ter. Cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Run a knife around the loaves to loosen, then turn out onto the racks. Let cool thoroughly.

Serving and Storing Serve warm, or cool, or toasted; the bread slices best when cool. Cool thoroughly before storing in plastic or foil. Keeps at room temperature for up to 3 days. May be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. Serve warm, or cool, or toasted; the bread slices best when cool. Cool thoroughly before storing in plastic or foil. Keeps at room temperature for up to 3 days. May be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Scottish Oatmeal Bread KS Quotient Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping. Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

The Scots are known for eating a lot of oats, in the form of breakfast porridge, or oatmeal; as a component of various baked goods; and in their beloved haggis, which, since it involves a.s.sorted peculiar animal parts, I prefer not to dwell on here. Sometimes, Scottish recipes call for incorporating leftover oatmeal, which not only saves time and avoids waste, but in the case of yeast bread, results in an exceptional loaf. The consistency and taste are different from bread made just by tossing some uncooked rolled oats in with the flour: the texture is much moister and smoother than normal and the flavor and aroma slightly sweeter and more "oaty." (For this recipe I a.s.sume that you don't have leftover oatmeal sitting around, so it calls for preparing the right amount of partially cooked and sweetened oatmeal.) This loaf is mild and homey, with a slightly chewy-crisp crust. Like many old-fas.h.i.+oned British breads, it calls for a bit of spice and dried currants. I like it for toast, or in thick, warm-from-the-oven slices spread with b.u.t.ter and smidge of jam and accompanied by a freshly brewed pot of tea. This is the simple, sublime way I first ate it back in the 1980s, at a bed and breakfast on a cold, damp summer afternoon in the Scottish Highlands.

Yield: 1 large loaf, 13 to 14 portions or slices2 cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached white bread flour, plus cup (3.75 ounces), plus more as neededScant 1 teaspoons table salt teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast teaspoon ground allspice1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg1 cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed teaspoon finely grated orange zest2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing pan and loaf top cup old-fas.h.i.+oned rolled oats, plus 4 tablespoons for garnish2/3 cup boiling water6 tablespoons packed light or dark brown sugar2/3 cup dried currants, rinsed under hot water, then thoroughly drained and patted dryFirst Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, the salt, yeast, allspice, and nutmeg. Vigorously stir the ice water and orange zest into the flour mixture, sc.r.a.ping down the sides just until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If too dry to mix, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more ice water to blend the ingredients, but don't over-moisten, as the dough should be fairly stiff. Stir in more flour to stiffen it if necessary. Brush the top with softened b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, the salt, yeast, allspice, and nutmeg. Vigorously stir the ice water and orange zest into the flour mixture, sc.r.a.ping down the sides just until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If too dry to mix, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more ice water to blend the ingredients, but don't over-moisten, as the dough should be fairly stiff. Stir in more flour to stiffen it if necessary. Brush the top with softened b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Second Rise In a medium bowl, gradually stir the oats into the boiling water until well blended. Let stand for 5 minutes to partially cook. Stir in the b.u.t.ter and sugar until the sugar dissolves and let cool thoroughly. Vigorously stir the cooled oatmeal mixture into the dough until thoroughly incorporated. Add in cup of the flour and the currants until evenly distributed throughout, then, as needed, enough more flour to yield a very stiff dough, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl thoroughly. Using an oiled rubber spatula and working all the way around the bowl, fold the dough in towards the center. In a medium bowl, gradually stir the oats into the boiling water until well blended. Let stand for 5 minutes to partially cook. Stir in the b.u.t.ter and sugar until the sugar dissolves and let cool thoroughly. Vigorously stir the cooled oatmeal mixture into the dough until thoroughly incorporated. Add in cup of the flour and the currants until evenly distributed throughout, then, as needed, enough more flour to yield a very stiff dough, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl thoroughly. Using an oiled rubber spatula and working all the way around the bowl, fold the dough in towards the center.

Generously b.u.t.ter a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Add 2 tablespoons of oats to the pan; tip it back and forth to evenly distribute them. Invert the dough into the pan. Smooth out the top and press the dough evenly into the pan. Brush the loaf top with melted b.u.t.ter. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoon oats over the top, pressing down to imbed them. Using an oiled serrated knife or kitchen shears, cut a 6-inch-long, -inch-deep slash down the loaf center. Cover the pan with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water. Continue the rise until the dough nears the plastic. Remove it and continue until the dough extends just to the pan rim (it will rise a lot in the oven). For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water. Continue the rise until the dough nears the plastic. Remove it and continue until the dough extends just to the pan rim (it will rise a lot in the oven).

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 375F. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 375F.

Baking Bake on the lower rack for 65 to 75 minutes, until the top is nicely browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with moist crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 204 to 206F on an instant-read thermometer). (As necessary to prevent over-browning, cover the top with foil.) Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the loaf to the rack; cool thoroughly. Bake on the lower rack for 65 to 75 minutes, until the top is nicely browned and a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with moist crumbs on the tip (or until the center registers 204 to 206F on an instant-read thermometer). (As necessary to prevent over-browning, cover the top with foil.) Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the loaf to the rack; cool thoroughly.

Serving and Storing This tastes good warm, but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. The bread will keep at cool room temperature for 3 to 4 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. This tastes good warm, but will cut much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. The bread will keep at cool room temperature for 3 to 4 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Tip The extended rise option normally offered in The extended rise option normally offered in Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple recipes can't be used for this bread. Once the oatmeal is added to the dough, the same chemical processes that make the finished loaf exceptionally moisture retentive and sweet-tasting also begin to break down the wheat gluten needed for good loaf structure. Since the gluten breakdown continues even during refrigeration, it's best to use an accelerated or regular second rise so the dough doesn't stand too long. The high moisture retention means that this loaf needs a slightly longer than normal baking time, too. recipes can't be used for this bread. Once the oatmeal is added to the dough, the same chemical processes that make the finished loaf exceptionally moisture retentive and sweet-tasting also begin to break down the wheat gluten needed for good loaf structure. Since the gluten breakdown continues even during refrigeration, it's best to use an accelerated or regular second rise so the dough doesn't stand too long. The high moisture retention means that this loaf needs a slightly longer than normal baking time, too.

Chapter 6: Healthful, Whole-Grain, Multigrain, and Gluten-Free Breads

This chapter celebrates a wide variety of grains and seeds, all of which can enhance the flavor, texture, visual interest, and nutritional value of bread. For the fine flavor that is the hallmark of good homemade bread, always be sure seeds, whole grains, and whole-grain flours are impeccably fresh. The high fat content of nuts and of the germ portion of grains makes them stale rapidly, so use what you buy promptly, or refrigerate or freeze (wrapped airtight) to preserve good flavor. seeds, all of which can enhance the flavor, texture, visual interest, and nutritional value of bread. For the fine flavor that is the hallmark of good homemade bread, always be sure seeds, whole grains, and whole-grain flours are impeccably fresh. The high fat content of nuts and of the germ portion of grains makes them stale rapidly, so use what you buy promptly, or refrigerate or freeze (wrapped airtight) to preserve good flavor.

Whole-grain breads are well suited to the Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple method. Bits of grain and seeds added during the long first rise have plenty of time to soften, plus the extended soaking encourages chemical processes that make them more digestible. The bubbling action of the "micro-kneading" is also advantageous because it gently jiggles rather than manhandles the dough. Regular kneading causes the coa.r.s.e grain particles to cut some of the gluten strands, which reduces their ability to trap gas and puff the bread. method. Bits of grain and seeds added during the long first rise have plenty of time to soften, plus the extended soaking encourages chemical processes that make them more digestible. The bubbling action of the "micro-kneading" is also advantageous because it gently jiggles rather than manhandles the dough. Regular kneading causes the coa.r.s.e grain particles to cut some of the gluten strands, which reduces their ability to trap gas and puff the bread.

Nevertheless, because whole grains contain bits of bran and germ, which are heavier than the starchy parts of kernels, breads calling for large proportions of whole grains often rise more slowly and come out more compact than those made entirely with all white wheat flour. White bread flour has extra gluten that can help lift the extra weight, so it is often called for in these recipes instead of all-purpose white flour. To further lighten the whole-grain load, some recipes call for a slightly higher proportion of yeast than most of the recipes in the book.

Crusty Seeded Cracked Wheat Pot Boule KS Quotient Easy: All ingredients added before the first rise. Hand-shaping required. Easy: All ingredients added before the first rise. Hand-shaping required.

This big (2 pounds), handsome, hearty, seed-studded boule boasts a wonderful, chewy-crispy crust and springy, surprisingly light crumb. The cracked wheat, wheat germ, and combination of flax, sesame, and poppy seeds boost the fiber and nutrients, as well as lend texture and a delectable earthy flavor. The light-colored, or "golden," variety of flax seeds have a particularly rich, nutty taste and aroma that contributes to the aura of the whole-grain goodness, but brown flax seeds will do perfectly well, too.

Like the other "pot" breads in this book, this one is baked in a heavy lidded Dutch oven or similar container. (See Choosing the Right Pot: Choosing the Right Pot: for more details on suitable pots.) When the lid is finally removed, it's always fun to see that the spiral pattern cut into the loaf top has opened up and exposed the interior, which dramatically contrasts the areas with seeds. for more details on suitable pots.) When the lid is finally removed, it's always fun to see that the spiral pattern cut into the loaf top has opened up and exposed the interior, which dramatically contrasts the areas with seeds.

Use this hearty, all-purpose loaf for toast or sandwiches, or cut it into generous portions and serve warm with a hearty soup or stew.

Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices3 tablespoons cracked wheat (or chopped wheat berries; see Tip Tip)2 tablespoons flax seeds, preferably golden2/3 cup boiling water2 cups (12.5 ounces) whole wheat flour, plus more as needed2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached white bread flour2 tablespoons wheat germ2 tablespoons poppy seeds2 tablespoons sesame seedsGenerous 2 teaspoons table salt1 teaspoons instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2 tablespoons clover honey or other mild honey2 cups ice water, plus more if neededCorn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough top and pot2 tablespoons liquid egg subst.i.tute or egg white for glaze1 tablespoons each flax seeds, poppy seeds, and sesame seeds mixed together for garnishFirst Rise Combine the cracked wheat and flax seeds with the boiling water and let stand until cooled thoroughly. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and bread flours, wheat germ, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, thoroughly whisk the honey into the ice water. Vigorously stir the mixture and the cracked wheat-flax mixture into the bowl with the flours, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides completely and mixing just until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the ingredients are too dry to mix together, gradually add in just enough more ice water to form a fairly stiff dough. (The seeds will absorb moisture, stiffening the dough further during the rise.) If the dough is soft, add more whole wheat flour until it is firmed up but not stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, refrigerate for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours; if convenient, vigorously stir once partway through the rise. Combine the cracked wheat and flax seeds with the boiling water and let stand until cooled thoroughly. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and bread flours, wheat germ, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, thoroughly whisk the honey into the ice water. Vigorously stir the mixture and the cracked wheat-flax mixture into the bowl with the flours, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl sides completely and mixing just until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the ingredients are too dry to mix together, gradually add in just enough more ice water to form a fairly stiff dough. (The seeds will absorb moisture, stiffening the dough further during the rise.) If the dough is soft, add more whole wheat flour until it is firmed up but not stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, refrigerate for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours; if convenient, vigorously stir once partway through the rise.

Second Rise Thoroughly stir the dough. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working your way around the bowl. Oil a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or similar ovenproof pot. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour into the pot, then tip back and forth to coat the bottom and sides. Invert the dough into the pot. Thoroughly stir the dough. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working your way around the bowl. Oil a 3- to 4-quart Dutch oven or similar ovenproof pot. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour into the pot, then tip back and forth to coat the bottom and sides. Invert the dough into the pot.

Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons more whole wheat flour over the dough. Pat and smooth it into the dough surface with your fingertips. Then smooth and tuck the sides of the loaf underneath all the way around so it forms a smooth, round, high dome, about 7 inches in diameter. Brush away any excess flour, then brush the loaf all over with the liquid egg subst.i.tute. Immediately sprinkle the mixed seed garnish over the loaf (it will be heavily coated). Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a serrated knife, cut a 1/8 -inch-deep spiral slash in the loaf top. Cover with the lid.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 2- to 4-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or, for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its original size. For a 2- to 4-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or, for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its original size.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475F. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 475F.

Baking Reduce the heat to 425F. Bake, covered, on the lower rack for 55 to 60 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and firm. Bake, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until well browned, occasionally testing with a skewer inserted in the thickest part (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to be sure the center is done. Cool the loaf in the pot on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before serving. Remove the loaf to the rack; cool thoroughly. Reduce the heat to 425F. Bake, covered, on the lower rack for 55 to 60 minutes, until the top is lightly browned and firm. Bake, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until well browned, occasionally testing with a skewer inserted in the thickest part (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 to 10 minutes more to be sure the center is done. Cool the loaf in the pot on a wire rack for at least 15 minutes before serving. Remove the loaf to the rack; cool thoroughly.

Serving and Storing Cut the loaf into portions; it tastes good warm but cuts much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store in a large bowl draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or, to prevent drying, store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. Cut the loaf into portions; it tastes good warm but cuts much better when cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store in a large bowl draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or, to prevent drying, store airtight in a plastic bag or foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The bread will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Tip If you happen to have wheat berries, which are, in fact, just uncooked whole wheat kernels, you can turn them into cracked wheat using a food processor, coffee grinder, or blender. It will take 2 or 3 minutes in a processor but only 30 to 60 seconds in a coffee grinder or blender to chop the wheat berries to the cracked wheat stage. If you happen to have wheat berries, which are, in fact, just uncooked whole wheat kernels, you can turn them into cracked wheat using a food processor, coffee grinder, or blender. It will take 2 or 3 minutes in a processor but only 30 to 60 seconds in a coffee grinder or blender to chop the wheat berries to the cracked wheat stage.

100 Percent Whole Wheat-Honey Bread KS Quotient Fairly Easy: Two simple separate sets of ingredients are mixed, then combined before the second rise. No hand-shaping. Fairly Easy: Two simple separate sets of ingredients are mixed, then combined before the second rise. No hand-shaping.

Creating a 100 percent whole wheat bread would seem a simple task, but producing one that has good texture and tastes mellow instead of slightly bitter can be a challenge. The traditional tack of adding honey to balance the bitter edge of whole wheat flour works to a point, but another little known method introduced in Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads also helps a lot. Based on brewers' techniques for making grain mash, this innovative technique involves partially cooking part of the whole wheat flour by pouring over some boiling water, then keeping the mixture barely hot by occasionally reheating it. also helps a lot. Based on brewers' techniques for making grain mash, this innovative technique involves partially cooking part of the whole wheat flour by pouring over some boiling water, then keeping the mixture barely hot by occasionally reheating it.

Yes, this requires an extra step or two, but it greatly improves the taste and texture of the finished loaf. The hot water instantly tames the harshness and creates a mixture reminiscent of very sweet, smooth cream of wheat. (The change is caused by enzymes that convert starches into sugars and cause molecules to gelatinize and hold water.) When added to the rest of the dough, the mush begins to act on the whole amount, lending the loaf an exceptionally mellow taste and moist, creamy texture.