Farm To Fork Part 1

Farm to Fork.

by Emeril Laga.s.se.

Introduction.

I HAVE HAD A CONNECTION WITH THE SOIL SINCE I WAS A YOUNG BOY.

This was kindled long ago, when Dad and I would visit my Uncle Oliver's farm in Westport, Ma.s.sachusetts. I really looked up to Uncle Oliver, who made his living by growing and baling hay and raising hogs, chickens, goats, sheep, as well as growing fruits and vegetables. I remember being very happy walking the strawberry rows in spring-Uncle Oliver allowed me to pick to my heart's content. I was also encouraged to help in the harvesting of beans, peppers, zucchini, cuc.u.mbers-you name it-and then looked forward to every fall for the arrival of cole crops, potatoes, and the magic of pumpkins.

This must have inspired Dad, too, because not much later he converted a good acre-plus of our backyard in Fall River into a vegetable garden, which we tended together. What we didn't eat or share with friends and family was put into my little red wagon and peddled around the neighborhood, particularly to Gene's Market, just a couple blocks from home.

As I got older, I began to take part in the milking of cows and goats and collecting eggs from the chicken coop. It was this experience that really taught me how a farm works. I made the connection between the food we buy at the market and the people who grow it, and that really stuck with me. Once I became a chef and began honing my craft, I knew the most important thing was to use the freshest and the best ingredients I could find. I also recognized that those ingredients, whether they be seafood, meat, poultry, or produce, should be grown and harvested locally.

A lesson from an early age of what makes great food.

By 1983, when I came to Louisiana and was given a chance to make a name for myself at Commander's Palace in New Orleans, local ingredients were what I relied upon and how I became inspired. It was during those early years as a chef that I, along with a few other chefs and a great farmer, started a farm co-op in nearby Mississippi. The result was fresh produce and herbs straight from the farm and the beginning of "hog Wednesdays." On that day, our farmer would bring freshly slaughtered pigs to the restaurant, and we used every part in every which way-a tradition that remains at Emeril's Restaurant in New Orleans to this day. We took great pride in the fact that everything we made was completely from scratch: from goat cheese to ice cream, from Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce to house-cured bacon. And twenty years later, the focus remains the same for me: fresh quality ingredients make for good food and an exceptional quality of life. My pa.s.sion for fresh farm-grown ingredients continues to grow stronger. All of the chefs who work in each of my restaurants around the country carry on the tradition of using the freshest ingredients and of maintaining long-lasting connections with local farmers. It is this principle that has inspired the recipes you'll find in these pages: recipes that rely on simple techniques to really allow the integrity of the food to s.h.i.+ne through.

"Buy fresh, Buy local" is a slogan that both my restaurants and my family try to live by-and a very important message that I feel compelled to pa.s.s along to folks as I encounter them in my travels each day. I try to instill this in my kids by bringing them with me when I shop for family meals. Not only is it fun for them to help Dad pick out the produce, but they also get a lesson in forging relations.h.i.+ps with the people who work hard to provide it. It is also the perfect time to speak to them about why it's important to . . .

Support your local farmer's markets.

With the constraints placed on farmers in this country, we really do owe it to ourselves and to them to give our support. If you can, try to find farmers who take the harder road and grow organically-your family's health, not to mention a better ecosystem and a lighter carbon footprint, will be your reward. With more than 4,500 farmer's markets nationwide, and more popping up every day, there is really no reason not to support our local markets. The vendors are able to showcase the very best of what is in season locally-small dairies sell milk, cream, and cheese from cows living perhaps only a few miles away, and farmers bring in produce that heralds the arrival of each season. How exciting it is to see these products on our tables, picked at the peak of ripeness and full of nutrients and vitality. It doesn't get much better than this. An added bonus is that there is no excess packaging to recycle, and no annoying little stickers to pry off your fragile produce. Also, small farmers often grow different and unusual, often heirloom, varieties of produce that many of us have not seen in our lifetimes but which probably graced the tables of the family that went before us.

Our local farmer's markets often support not only farmers but also the men and women who brave the local waters to bring us freshly caught fish, shrimp, crabs, oysters, and a host of other treasures. There has been much in the news lately (but not nearly enough) about the hard times these folks are having competing with the low prices of seafood imported from China and other countries. I know firsthand that Gulf Coast shrimpers are really hurting in this regard; the prices that they are offered at the docks don't even cover their operating costs. Families who have been fis.h.i.+ng and shrimping for generations are now being forced to find different livelihoods. If we want to continue to enjoy the wonderful seafood that these people work hard to bring to us, then we must make different choices about where we purchase our seafood. Simple as that.

The way I see it, it's returning to a way of life that used to be taken for granted. Buy locally and you are able to enjoy the benefits that come along with it. Plant a small garden in your backyard, or even just an herb garden in pots on a windowsill. Either way, talk about a great way to spend time with the family! And hey, finicky children are much more likely to try a new vegetable if they've taken part in growing it. The wonder of planting a seedling, watching it grow, and harvesting it to eat is inexplicable. I can't think of a better way to show a child the value of fresh food from the table.

Some of us living in urban environments may not feel we have the opportunities for gardening and farming at home, and may feel unconnected to the sources of our food. But urban farms are popping up in the most unlikely places, such as the still struggling post-Katrina 9th ward of New Orleans. Previously blighted properties are now hosting thriving gardens, where abandoned car tires find new life as containers for vertical potato gardening. (Yes, I've seen it!) New Orleans is home to many such urban farms these days, and these projects not only bring life into neglected parts of town but also enrich the local communities by giving neighbors a reason to come together and work toward a common goal. I know this is happening across the nation, and the message I'm getting to is this: there is a limit only if we allow ourselves to imagine one.

I have been inspired by seeing folks tackle this challenge head-on in unique ways. For instance, the Edible Schoolyard project founded in California by Alice Waters, the head of the buy local, eat fresh movement, has had a tremendous impact on the children involved as well as on the local community in which the project was founded. I was so impressed by this project that I have worked with Alice and some other folks in order to bring an edible schoolyard to one of our schools in New Orleans. As a result, children are eating better, more healthful meals, and have a genuine respect for Mother Earth and the hard work required to put food on the table. They are learning about nutrition, gardening, and the impact of farming on our environment. All this, plus they're gaining the self-esteem that comes from self-reliance. Visiting these children and seeing what they are learning in the garden, and the smiles on their faces after a day spent in their teaching kitchen, is some very powerful medicine, let me tell you. The pride in what they've accomplished goes farther than the schoolyard, too. The surrounding community comes together to help the children maintain the garden. Neighbors meet and greet and go home feeling that they've done something worthwhile with their time. It's a win-win situation. Just imagine the impact this could generate if we had more programs like this around the country.

And that's what I'm talking about, folks: a connection. It really can be about the choices we make. We can have more to say about what we eat. From the garden, to you, to the table. Go on, make some friends.

The Herb Garden

A Lesson in Herb Oils: Chive, Basil, Mint One of the best ways to preserve the abundance of fresh herbs from your garden is by making flavored oils. Herb oils can be enjoyed so many ways-drizzled over salads, vegetables, pastas, sandwiches, or grilled items, hot or cold or in between. Not only are they flavorful, but they also add dramatic color when drizzled on plates. If you want to kick it up, and I know you do, add half a clove of smashed garlic and 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper to the blender with the other ingredients . . . a great dipping oil for chunks of rustic bread!

Basil Oil 3 cups water2 ounces fresh basil leaves (about 2 cups packed) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the basil leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the basil leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible, and set aside. Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the basil leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the basil leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible, and set aside.

3. Pour the oil and salt into a blender, and mix on high speed. While the machine is running, add half the basil leaves and process briefly. Then add the remaining basil and puree it (doing this in batches prevents bruising the leaves and keeps the color intact). Transfer the basil oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Pour the oil and salt into a blender, and mix on high speed. While the machine is running, add half the basil leaves and process briefly. Then add the remaining basil and puree it (doing this in batches prevents bruising the leaves and keeps the color intact). Transfer the basil oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Chive Oil 4 cups water2 ounces (about 2 bunches) fresh chives, snipped to 3-inch lengths (2 cups) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the chives all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the chives and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the chives all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the chives and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible.

3. Combine the chives, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the Chive Oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the Chive Oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Combine the chives, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the Chive Oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the Chive Oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Mint Oil 4 cups water2 ounces fresh mint leaves (about 2 cups packed) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the mint leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the mint leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the mint leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the mint leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible.

3. Combine the mint leaves, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mint oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the mint oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Combine the mint leaves, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mint oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the mint oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Fresh Mint Tea Is the garden overgrown with mint? No problem! This recipe is adapted from the traditional Moroccan mint tea, where green tea is used instead of black, but still with an abundance of fresh spearmint. It is enjoyed there throughout the day-so why not here too?

4 cups water1 cups loosely packed fresh spearmint leaves1/3 cup sugarTwo -inch-thick orange slices (do not peel)6 whole cloves2 orange pekoe tea bags 1. Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan.

2. In another saucepan, combine the spearmint leaves, sugar, orange slices, cloves, and tea bags. Carefully pour the boiling water over the tea mixture, and let it steep for 3 minutes. Stir to dissolve the sugar, and then strain the tea into a small warmed teapot or other serving vessel. Serve hot. In another saucepan, combine the spearmint leaves, sugar, orange slices, cloves, and tea bags. Carefully pour the boiling water over the tea mixture, and let it steep for 3 minutes. Stir to dissolve the sugar, and then strain the tea into a small warmed teapot or other serving vessel. Serve hot.

1 quart, 2 to 4 servings

Cheesy Herbed Popovers It's hard not to stare at the oven while these bake, and rise, and pop. The aroma alone will get 'em out of bed to come see the action. By no means do you want to open the oven until the popovers are finished. Don't worry-you won't ruin their gorgeous color. Leave them in until the last moment to be sure the inside is cooked.

4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter, melted cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese4 eggs1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 cups whole milk3 tablespoons heavy cream1 cup all-purpose flour2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme, rosemary, basil, or chivesAbout 2 ounces medium cheddar cheese, grated ( cup) or cut into 12 pieces 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Brush the cups of a standard 12-cup m.u.f.fin tin with some of the melted b.u.t.ter. Divide the Parmesan evenly among the cups. Brush the cups of a standard 12-cup m.u.f.fin tin with some of the melted b.u.t.ter. Divide the Parmesan evenly among the cups.

3. Combine the eggs, salt, pepper, milk, cream, and the remaining b.u.t.ter in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the flour and blend for 15 seconds, until smooth. Transfer the batter to a large mixing bowl. Stir in the fresh herbs. Combine the eggs, salt, pepper, milk, cream, and the remaining b.u.t.ter in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the flour and blend for 15 seconds, until smooth. Transfer the batter to a large mixing bowl. Stir in the fresh herbs.

4. Fill each m.u.f.fin cup halfway with batter. Divide the cheddar among the cups, and then top with the remaining batter. Fill each m.u.f.fin cup halfway with batter. Divide the cheddar among the cups, and then top with the remaining batter.

5. Bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350F and bake for 10 minutes. Bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350F and bake for 10 minutes.

6. Remove the m.u.f.fin tin from the oven and unmold the popovers onto a wire rack. Pierce the side of each popover with a small sharp knife to allow steam to escape. (This will help keep them from deflating.) Serve immediately. Remove the m.u.f.fin tin from the oven and unmold the popovers onto a wire rack. Pierce the side of each popover with a small sharp knife to allow steam to escape. (This will help keep them from deflating.) Serve immediately.

12 popovers, 6 to 8 servings

Cilantro Pesto Although cilantro can pack a punch, heat diminishes the flavor of this delicate herb, so making pesto with it is a great way to preserve its bright, clean flavor. Use this pesto as a finish for hot pasta, drizzled on simply cooked meat or fish, or tossed with boiled vegetables. You could even stir it into a pot of beans or soup . . . use it any way in which you'd enjoy traditional basil pesto. This will create added interest to any dish.

2 cups packed fresh cilantro leaves cup hulled pepitas (raw pumpkin seeds), toasted cup grated Cotija cheese2 cloves garlic, crushed1 cup plus 2 tablespoons canola, grapeseed, or other neutral oil1 teaspoon grated lime zest2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Place the cilantro, pepitas, Cotija, and garlic in a food processor and blend until just smooth. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and stir in the lime zest, juice, salt, and pepper. Place the cilantro, pepitas, Cotija, and garlic in a food processor and blend until just smooth. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and stir in the lime zest, juice, salt, and pepper.

2. Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 2 days, or store the pesto in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 1 month. Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 2 days, or store the pesto in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Generous 1 cups

Herbed Goat Cheese b.u.t.tons These serve as a wonderful spread for crackers or crusty bread, and they make a nice addition to a cheese plate or a simple green salad.

11 ounces soft, mild goat cheese, at room temperature2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano leaves teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or thyme leaves1 teaspoons minced garlic1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for servingKosher salt and freshly ground black pepperFresh herb sprigs, for lining the serving platter (optional) 1. In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese, basil, oregano, rosemary, garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Stir until well combined. If the mixture is too stiff to mix well, add the remaining oil, a little at a time, and stir to combine. Season with kosher salt and black pepper to taste. Cover the mixture and place in the refrigerator to stiffen, 30 minutes to 1 hour. (This will make it easier to roll.) In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese, basil, oregano, rosemary, garlic, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Stir until well combined. If the mixture is too stiff to mix well, add the remaining oil, a little at a time, and stir to combine. Season with kosher salt and black pepper to taste. Cover the mixture and place in the refrigerator to stiffen, 30 minutes to 1 hour. (This will make it easier to roll.) 2. Use a small spoon or scoop to portion the cheese mixture into roughly 2-tablespoon portions. Lightly oil your hands to prevent sticking, and use them to roll each portion into a small ball; then lightly flatten it to form a "b.u.t.ton." Place the b.u.t.tons on a platter (lined with herb sprigs if desired), and refrigerate it, lightly covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve, up to 1 week. Use a small spoon or scoop to portion the cheese mixture into roughly 2-tablespoon portions. Lightly oil your hands to prevent sticking, and use them to roll each portion into a small ball; then lightly flatten it to form a "b.u.t.ton." Place the b.u.t.tons on a platter (lined with herb sprigs if desired), and refrigerate it, lightly covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve, up to 1 week.

3. Allow the b.u.t.tons to come to room temperature. Then drizzle them with olive oil as desired, and serve. Allow the b.u.t.tons to come to room temperature. Then drizzle them with olive oil as desired, and serve.

About 13 b.u.t.tons

Herb Salad In this salad herbs are used like lettuce, courtesy of your garden or your neighborhood farmer's market. Large pieces are tossed with red leaf, a lemony bright vinaigrette, chopped eggs, and capers. Any leftover vinaigrette is delicious over steamed green beans or grilled fish.

3 tablespoons 1-inch-long snipped chives3 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves3 tablespoons fresh mint or tarragon leaves3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh basil leaves1 tablespoons minced shallot1 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice4 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepperOne 12-ounce head red or green leaf lettuce, or a mix, rinsed and spun dry, and torn into bite-size pieces2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped2 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained2 tablespoons finely grated ricotta salata 1. Combine all the herbs (there should be a generous cup total) and set aside in a small bowl. Combine all the herbs (there should be a generous cup total) and set aside in a small bowl.

2. In another bowl, add the shallot, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in both oils to form a vinaigrette. Add teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper, and set aside. In another bowl, add the shallot, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in both oils to form a vinaigrette. Add teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper, and set aside.

3. Combine the lettuce, herbs, eggs, and capers in a medium bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir the vinaigrette and add 4 tablespoons. Toss gently. Divide the salad among six serving plates or transfer it to a serving bowl. Garnish with the cheese, and drizzle with more vinaigrette as desired. Combine the lettuce, herbs, eggs, and capers in a medium bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir the vinaigrette and add 4 tablespoons. Toss gently. Divide the salad among six serving plates or transfer it to a serving bowl. Garnish with the cheese, and drizzle with more vinaigrette as desired.

6 servings

Herb-Crusted Halibut The herb crust provides a zesty crunch that brightens up a halibut fillet. The simplicity of this dish makes it perfect for a weeknight dinner and yet still sophisticated enough for weekend entertaining. If you cannot find halibut at your local fish market, subst.i.tute another mild, flaky white fish.

4 teaspoons chopped lemon zest4 teaspoons chopped fresh dill leaves4 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves4 teaspoons chopped fresh chervil leaves2 teaspoons cracked black pepperFour 6-ounce halibut fillets, skinned1 teaspoons salt4 teaspoons Dijon mustard1 tablespoon vegetable oil4 cups fresh arugula leaves, rinsed and spun dry2 tablespoons olive oil 1. In a shallow bowl, combine the lemon zest, dill, parsley, chervil, and black pepper. In a shallow bowl, combine the lemon zest, dill, parsley, chervil, and black pepper.

2. Season the fish with 1 teaspoons of the salt. Then lightly brush one side of each fillet with 1 teaspoon of the Dijon mustard. Firmly press the mustard-coated side of each fillet into the lemon-herb mixture. Season the fish with 1 teaspoons of the salt. Then lightly brush one side of each fillet with 1 teaspoon of the Dijon mustard. Firmly press the mustard-coated side of each fillet into the lemon-herb mixture.

3. Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet (preferably nonstick). Place the fillets, coated side down, in the hot oil and cook until the crust turns golden, 3 to 3 minutes. Flip them over and continue to cook until the fish flakes easily, about 3 minutes. Heat the vegetable oil in a skillet (preferably nonstick). Place the fillets, coated side down, in the hot oil and cook until the crust turns golden, 3 to 3 minutes. Flip them over and continue to cook until the fish flakes easily, about 3 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, toss the arugula with the olive oil in a medium bowl, and season with the remaining teaspoon salt. Divide the arugula evenly among four serving plates. Meanwhile, toss the arugula with the olive oil in a medium bowl, and season with the remaining teaspoon salt. Divide the arugula evenly among four serving plates.

5. Place a halibut fillet on each mound of arugula, and serve immediately. Place a halibut fillet on each mound of arugula, and serve immediately.

4 servings

Opal BasilMacerated Peaches Did you know there are at least twenty-five varieties of basil, coming in all shapes, sizes, flavors, and scents? Basil is actually a member of the mint family, making it useful in both sweet and savory dishes. Opal basil is similar in flavor to sweet basil, but I chose opal basil for this dish because I just love the color of its deep purple leaves. Basil lends an unexpected flavor to this simple dessert.

4 firm-ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and quartered1 ounce opal basil leaves (about 2 cups loosely packed)1 teaspoon grated lime zest1 cup sugar1 cup waterHomemade Creme Fraiche, for serving (chapter "The Orchard", optional) 1. Place the peaches and basil in a medium bowl, and set it aside. Place the peaches and basil in a medium bowl, and set it aside.

2. Combine the lime zest, sugar, and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Lower the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Then pour the hot syrup over the peaches and basil. Cover, and chill for 2 hours.

3. Serve the peaches in small bowls, garnished with a dollop of creme fraiche if desired. Serve the peaches in small bowls, garnished with a dollop of creme fraiche if desired.

4 to 6 servings

Milk, Eggs, and Cheese

Rosemary b.u.t.termilk Scones These are not the old-tasting dried-out scones you may have had. They are flaky and wonderful. The aroma of orange and rosemary from your oven . . . ahhh. Enjoy them with fresh creamery b.u.t.ter, clotted cream, or the Orange Curd on chapter "Winter Fruits".

3 cups all-purpose flour1 tablespoon sugar1 tablespoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon finely grated orange zest1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves12 tablespoons (1 sticks) cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces1 cup plus 2 tablespoons well-shaken b.u.t.termilk 1. Preheat the oven to 425F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and set it aside. Preheat the oven to 425F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and set it aside.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and black pepper. Add the orange zest and rosemary, and combine with a fork. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour with your fingers, a pastry blender, or a fork until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. (A few large flat pieces of flour-coated b.u.t.ter in the mixture are okay-they'll contribute to the flakiness.) In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and black pepper. Add the orange zest and rosemary, and combine with a fork. Add the b.u.t.ter and work it into the flour with your fingers, a pastry blender, or a fork until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. (A few large flat pieces of flour-coated b.u.t.ter in the mixture are okay-they'll contribute to the flakiness.) 3. Add the 1 cup b.u.t.termilk and stir with a fork until the ingredients are just moistened. Gather the dough together and press it gently into a rough ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and pat it together (with floured hands, if necessary). The dough may still be a crumbly ma.s.s. Knead the dough gently six to seven times; then use your hands to shape it into a rectangle measuring about 7 by 4 inches. With a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 10 7-inch rectangle, inch thick. Use a knife to divide the dough into three sections by cutting it at roughly 3-inch intervals along the length. Cut each rectangle in half. You will have 6 squares. Cut each square into 2 triangles. Add the 1 cup b.u.t.termilk and stir with a fork until the ingredients are just moistened. Gather the dough together and press it gently into a rough ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and pat it together (with floured hands, if necessary). The dough may still be a crumbly ma.s.s. Knead the dough gently six to seven times; then use your hands to shape it into a rectangle measuring about 7 by 4 inches. With a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 10 7-inch rectangle, inch thick. Use a knife to divide the dough into three sections by cutting it at roughly 3-inch intervals along the length. Cut each rectangle in half. You will have 6 squares. Cut each square into 2 triangles.

4. Set the triangles on the prepared baking sheet, and brush them with the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.termilk. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until golden brown and puffed. Serve warm. Set the triangles on the prepared baking sheet, and brush them with the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.termilk. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until golden brown and puffed. Serve warm.

12 scones

Welsh-Style Cheese Toast The traditional name for this toast is Welsh Rabbit or Welsh Rarebit. It has a long history and is steeped in quite a bit of lore. According to some, when the hunter came home without a rabbit, his wife would make this sandwich instead-the melting cheese combined with a little ale would just have to do. Today we're more than happy to eat this delicious tidbit as a snack. Using good-quality whole-grain bread and the best-quality cheese is the key to making this dish delicious.

1 pound cheese, such as Vella Monterey Jack, cheddar, Fontina, or a combination of cheeses, grated cup beer1 large egg, lightly beaten1 teaspoon Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce1 teaspoon Dijon mustard1 teaspoon salt teaspoon sweet pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika) or sweet paprika4 strips crisp-cooked bacon, crumbled6 slices whole-grain bread, toasted6 slices beefsteak tomato 1. Combine the cheese and the beer in the top of a double boiler set over boiling water. Warm the cheese gently until it melts. Then add the egg, Worcesters.h.i.+re, mustard, salt, pimenton, and bacon, and stir to combine. Cook for 2 minutes, and remove from the heat. Combine the cheese and the beer in the top of a double boiler set over boiling water. Warm the cheese gently until it melts. Then add the egg, Worcesters.h.i.+re, mustard, salt, pimenton, and bacon, and stir to combine. Cook for 2 minutes, and remove from the heat.

2. Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

3. Arrange the toast on the prepared baking sheet, and top each piece with a slice of tomato. Ladle the cheese mixture over the top. Broil until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Arrange the toast on the prepared baking sheet, and top each piece with a slice of tomato. Ladle the cheese mixture over the top. Broil until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown, about 2 minutes.

4. Serve immediately. Serve immediately.

6 servings