Am I Boring My Dog? Part 11

Chewing An oral fixation could rule out wooden fencing; many dogs find tree-based products very tasty. You don't want your pooch to chew through slats and get a mouthful of splinters. The good news: dogs often outgrow an inclination toward dental entertainment, and you may eventually be able to install more attractive fencing.

Digging I'll go into more detail about digging in question 89, but if you live with a serious burrower, fortify the fence line with cement blocks or large rocks, or dig a narrow trench and fill it with concrete. Alternatively, sink chicken wire into the ground about 6 to 12 inches deep, curving it in 2 or 3 feet toward the yard. Make sure to roll up the sharp edges so your dog doesn't injure herself.

Leaping For the garden variety, as it were, fence jumper, regular precautions might suffice. Avoid leaving anything near the fence that your dog could use as a launch pad-patio table, garbage can, barbecue ... even piles of snow could give your pup an extra leg up. For Olympic-level vaulters, add height to the fence and tilt it inward with angled steel extensions, perhaps strung with fence fabric (but nothing that could trap your dog's paw or collar).

Another option is to plant shrubbery-or install a barrier that your dog can't impale himself on-at a distance designed to thwart a running start.

Note: If it's too expensive for you to go the whole fence route and/or your dog is a serious escape artist, consider a smaller-but large enough to roam in and use as a bathroom-enclosure, built adjacent to the house and in conjunction with a dog door (see the following section). If it's too expensive for you to go the whole fence route and/or your dog is a serious escape artist, consider a smaller-but large enough to roam in and use as a bathroom-enclosure, built adjacent to the house and in conjunction with a dog door (see the following section).

GIVE THEM SHELTER.

Doghouses were once modest structures, intended only for basic protection against the elements-thus their reputation as retreats of last resort for the human badly behaved. Now they've gone from crude shelter to shelter magazine. Some architects advertise their design skills with elaborate dog homes; magazines from This Old House This Old House to to Woman's Day Woman's Day have featured canine-sized renditions of cla.s.sic American styles. have featured canine-sized renditions of cla.s.sic American styles.

Can't afford a custom-built replica of your abode? No worries. You can still cater to your dog's comfort and your aesthetic sense with (theoretically) easy-to-construct models. Styles listed on DogHouse.com, for example, range from the Arctic-themed Dogloo ($120) to the porch-fronted Swiss chalet ($387)-not to mention the 8-foot-tall Victorian-style cottage that doubles as a kennel ($5,800).

Consider the following when buying a doghouse.

Size Get a house large enough for your dog to fit his entire body into, but not so large as to be drafty. (If your pup is a social animal, you can get a duplex.) DogHouse.com offers tips on how to choose the correct size-for example, the door height opening should be no less than three fourths of the dog's shoulder-to-ground measurement. offers tips on how to choose the correct size-for example, the door height opening should be no less than three fourths of the dog's shoulder-to-ground measurement.

Suitability Plastic and wood are the most common doghouse materials; metal may be an option, too. Take the weather conditions in your region into account when you decide which to choose. Wood is probably a bad idea in a wet or snow-bound area, for example, although a pitched roof can help offset precipitation issues.

Placement Again, consider geography. If you live in the Midwest, say, you don't want the opening of the doghouse to face the wind during the coldest time of year. In the Southwest, you need to avoid the midday sun in summer.

Insulation/protection You may not have the wherewithal to install central heating or A/C in your dog's daytime quarters, but insulation is essential where temperatures are extreme.97 Some pricey models have built-in protection, and off-center doors help keep the wind and rain from reaching your pup. Hanging strips of plastic over the doghouse door also helps ward off the elements, and putting a blanket, heated pad, or even straw on the floor keeps your dog toasty. Some pricey models have built-in protection, and off-center doors help keep the wind and rain from reaching your pup. Hanging strips of plastic over the doghouse door also helps ward off the elements, and putting a blanket, heated pad, or even straw on the floor keeps your dog toasty.

Amenities Especially if he doesn't have access to your house while you're gone, your pup needs a supply of fresh water in his doghouse. Nix the food, however, except in toys that make it difficult to get to. Comestibles-remember Chapter 4?-may attract the bad company noted in the next section.

Cleanliness No, a doghouse doesn't have to pa.s.s the white glove test, but you'd be surprised at the company your dog may be keeping if you're not vigilant: pack rats, bees, and other undesirables. Plastic houses are generally the easiest to clean, but some wood ones come with removable roofs. Consider, too, a raised panel floor: it keeps the air flowing and the debris under the house, not in it.

ENTRY AND EXIT STRATEGIES.

Call it providence or serendipity. Before I got Frankie, I bought a home that caters to a small dog's comings and goings.98 The sliding-gla.s.s doors on the side of my house are fronted by wrought-iron security bars that are a Frankie-size distance from one another. Tucson's warm weather and general nonbugginess allows me to leave the gla.s.s doors open without a screen much of the year; when I'm home, Frankie can exit and reenter without asking permission. The sliding-gla.s.s doors on the side of my house are fronted by wrought-iron security bars that are a Frankie-size distance from one another. Tucson's warm weather and general nonbugginess allows me to leave the gla.s.s doors open without a screen much of the year; when I'm home, Frankie can exit and reenter without asking permission.

Installing a dog door typically requires you to cut a hole in a standard door or wall. Most door models come in three standard sizes, and of course you can pay extra to get something tailored to your pup's proportions. The larger the door, the more of a temperature control and security issue99 it poses. it poses.

Perhaps the biggest decision you'll need to make regards the operation of the door: manual or automatic/electronic.

Manual Generally consisting of flaps that your dog can walk through at will, manual doors used to be simple and inexpensive but Automatic/electronic100 The premise is the same for all varieties: your dog wears a special collar that allows him-and only him, as opposed to the random racc.o.o.n-to unlock the door, which then shuts behind him automatically. These doors vary in the type of technology they employ-from magnetic to battery-powered infrared and radio-frequency-as well as in style. Some resemble traditional flap doors; others glide up and down.

I applaud the dog empowerment concept and the added security these doors afford but they're costly to install and repair. And I don't entirely trust the technology. I once put in a battery-operated doorbell that went off constantly and indiscriminately, generally in the middle of the night, whenever ... well, I'm not sure what set the bell off-police radar? Garage door openers? When it comes to a door dropping down on your dog or locking him out of the house, we're talking about more than just an annoyance.

86. DOES MY HOUSE HAVE TO GO TO THE DOGS, OR ARE THERE WAYS TO KEEP IT LOOKING NICE?.

Loving your dog and wanting lovely digs are by no means mutually exclusive. It's often just a question of stepping up the training and making a few inexpensive decor changes. But if you want to redecorate with your pup in mind, you don't have to sacrifice style to avoid permanent s...o...b..r stains.

Note: Dogs are notoriously bad at wiping their feet when they enter the house. Keep an old towel by the door and head your dog off at the pa.s.s before she has a chance to bring the outdoors in-in a bad way. Dogs are notoriously bad at wiping their feet when they enter the house. Keep an old towel by the door and head your dog off at the pa.s.s before she has a chance to bring the outdoors in-in a bad way.

FLOORING.

Tile is a no-brainer for the canine inclined, the harder and the more impervious to scratches the better; unlike carpeting, tile repels hair and odors, and is simple to clean. Wood floors are also dog-durable, although larger pooches can scratch the softer varieties; these may require a factory finish laminate-and a strict nail-tr.i.m.m.i.n.g regimen-to maintain their good looks. Linoleum, which is tough, inexpensive, and environment friendly,101 has made a comeback, so don't rule it out because you're picturing the colors and patterns of an ancient relative's kitchen. has made a comeback, so don't rule it out because you're picturing the colors and patterns of an ancient relative's kitchen.

Because much of this flooring tends to be slippery and dogs don't have good skid control, and because hard surfaces are tough on arthritic dog hips, area rugs with nonslip pads make a good safety-as well as decor-complement. For hiding, as well as repelling, dirt and stains, think dense, cut-pile wool or high-grade nylon in midrange colors. Patterns are your friends, too. Hemp, sisal, or seagra.s.s weaves provide cover for light-haired shedders.

FURNITURE.

Deterrence, especially through training, is the first line of defense in keeping your furniture safe from doggie depredations.

When you're at home ...

Be consistent. You can't decide that it's okay for your dog to sit next to you when you feel like having company on the couch and then yell at him when you don't. Firmly but pleasantly head your dog off when you see him approaching the verboten furniture, and direct him to get down if he's already settling in. Also ...

Provide alternatives. Guide your dog toward something else in the room such as a dog bed or less expensive piece of furniture.102 Techniques to train your pup from climbing on the furniture when you're away include: Place wide swathes of masking tape, adhesive side up, on the furniture; it will stick to your dog's paws and/or fur and annoy him. Covering the cus.h.i.+ons with aluminum foil will have a similarly irritating (though non-bonding) effect.

Rig up something noisy-a can full of coins, say-on the piece to startle your dog when he jumps on it.

Spray the furniture with something nontoxic but noxious to dogs, such as Bitter Apple.

The nice thing about these and similar techniques is that your dog won't a.s.sociate you with these mildly aversive experiences and will instead resent the furniture. You should only need to use these measures temporarily, and not when you're expecting guests (unless they're the kind you would also like to discourage from settling in on your couch and armchairs).

COVER-UPS.

Many of us don't mind sitting next to a warm body that doesn't try to commandeer the remote control, and don't view a mere species difference as sufficient reason to withhold a comfy snoozing spot. Washable throws103 and slipcovers allow your dog furniture access without announcing your permissive policies to visitors. and slipcovers allow your dog furniture access without announcing your permissive policies to visitors.

Avoid throws with loose weaves that dogs can get their nails or collars caught on.

The following fabrics are particularly suited for slipcovers or upholstery: Linen and cotton blends. They're st.u.r.dy and launder well, and if you have a wrinkly dog, linen will provide the perfect fas.h.i.+on complement.Ultrasuede (www.ultrasuede.com). As with linoleum, this blast from the past has made a major comeback. It's pricey, but lush to the touch and stain resistant and machine washable. A quick sponging or brus.h.i.+ng removes dog hair.Crypton (www.cryptonfabric.com). This similarly costly super fabric comes in several different textures and colors, all resistant to liquids, stains, and odors. Crypton's canine friendliness became a marketing strategy, when the company enlisted dog photographer William Wegman to design a fabric line. All the patterns feature dogs, and Wegman used his Weimeraners as models for the one called Posey.

As with rugs, think patterns and midtones for whatever type of fabric you opt for-or a color that's similar to your dog's hair. I noted in Chapter 1 that you are a bad person if you chose a dog to match your upholstery, but the converse doesn't hold true.

Finally, if you can afford it, consider leather furniture, which is easy to clean and disinfect. One caveat: One caveat: If the leather doesn't have a finish, it will absorb oils from your dog's skin. Even if you never considered him a greaser, your pooch will slowly reveal his favorite place to relax by creating a full- or partial-body stain. Of course, this is another dog decor crisis where a stylish throw can come to the rescue. If the leather doesn't have a finish, it will absorb oils from your dog's skin. Even if you never considered him a greaser, your pooch will slowly reveal his favorite place to relax by creating a full- or partial-body stain. Of course, this is another dog decor crisis where a stylish throw can come to the rescue.

87. WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN MY HOME NOW THAT I SHARE IT WITH A DOG?

This is a complex question, involving both effective methods of eliminating dog detritus and the need to avoid harming your pup with household cleaning products.

Frankie is lucky. I'm ecoconscious and not overly obsessed with cleanliness, so he isn't exposed to potentially toxic products on a regular basis. I in turn am fortunate to live with a nonshedding, housebroken pup. But we both have our lapses: I keep bleach in my dog-accessible laundry room, for example, and before Frankie was diagnosed and treated for diabetes, his excessive water consumption spurred a few accidents.

And, of course, feces happens.

DOG-DETRITUS CLEANUP.

Most of the dog-related cleaning problems you'll encounter involve carpeting, which is why it's a good idea to get rid of the wall-to-wall variety if possible. Unless otherwise noted, the following deal with removing unwanted evidence of your pup's presence from your rug.

Liquid waste The best way to eliminate urine stains and odor is to use a bacteria/enzyme digester, available from most pet stores as well as online. Make sure to use enough of the solution to penetrate your rug as deeply as the urine did, and take care to leave it on as long as directed. Keep your dog out of the room or put plastic over the area during this process. If your pup catches you removing his mark, he might up the pee ante.

For the same reason-as well as because of its potential toxicity-never use cleaning products that contain ammonia, also a prime component of urine. Your dog may think another dog snuck in and peed in his territory.

Speaking of sneaking, if your dog is a stealth urinater and you're not certain of the pee odor source, you can play CSI tech by searching the room with a black light. These lights usually cost less than $20; some even come free with odor removal products. If your baseboards and walls were targeted, mild soap and water should suffice to remove the evidence of your dog's misplaced machismo (sorry, but girl dogs don't tend to lift their legs to pee on the wall).

Semi-solid or solid waste Waiting for complete solidification to occur is your best strategy. If you attempt to wash dog doo from your carpet before it dries, it will only smear and become embedded in the fibers.

To eliminate any odiferous flaky residue, add baking soda and then vacuum.

If the waste was semi-liquid to begin with or emerged from your dog's other end,104 pick up and blot what you can with dry folded paper towels; be gentle so that you don't embed anything into the carpet. Once you remove the semi-solid portion, apply the same type of bacteria/enzyme digester you would use on urine. Or wait until the mess dries, sprinkle on baking soda, and vacuum. pick up and blot what you can with dry folded paper towels; be gentle so that you don't embed anything into the carpet. Once you remove the semi-solid portion, apply the same type of bacteria/enzyme digester you would use on urine. Or wait until the mess dries, sprinkle on baking soda, and vacuum.

Hair The best dog hair defense is a good offense (or is that the other way around? I get my sports metaphors confused): the more frequently you groom your dog, the less hair will be arrayed around your house. But, even more than feces, shed happens, and it's impossible to avoid furry furnis.h.i.+ngs if you live with a breed that has a nonstick coat. The solution: vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. Vacuum cleaner manufacturers have risen to the occasion, creating a mind-boggling array of products and attachments aimed at those beset by pet hair.105 Among them are robotic vacuums, which not only do the job without human effort but, because they beep and flash, inspire some dogs to believe they're exciting toys intended for them. Any possible benefits of this illusion, of course, depend on how your dog treats her playthings. Indeed, some dogs mistake robotic vacuums for aliens that need to be attacked and sent back to s.p.a.ce. Among them are robotic vacuums, which not only do the job without human effort but, because they beep and flash, inspire some dogs to believe they're exciting toys intended for them. Any possible benefits of this illusion, of course, depend on how your dog treats her playthings. Indeed, some dogs mistake robotic vacuums for aliens that need to be attacked and sent back to s.p.a.ce.

In addition, as with dried dog p.o.o.p and vomit, baking soda makes a great vacuuming aid, bonding to hair, bacteria, and dander; it also helps eliminate doggie odor. Sprinkle it on and let it sit for about half an hour before suctioning it up.

DO-NO-HARM CLEANING.

Imagine a toddler being allowed to crawl all around the house, licking the floor at will. Then imagine that she has a super-fast metabolism and smaller-than-human lung capacity. That's your dog's MO-which means she's not only at increased risk of encountering household cleaning toxins, but that when she does, she's breathing them in more rapidly than we do and having more difficulty eliminating them from her body.

Surprise! The best way to prevent your dog from being exposed to dangerous chemicals is to avoid using products that contain them. The most common offenders and cleaners in which they're found include: Ammonia: Gla.s.s cleaners (combined with bleach, ammonia creates a poisonous chlorine gas) Gla.s.s cleaners (combined with bleach, ammonia creates a poisonous chlorine gas)Bleach: Disinfectants and clothes whiteners Disinfectants and clothes whitenersFormaldehyde: Furniture polish Furniture polishMonoethanolamine: Oven, tub, tile, and carpet cleaners Oven, tub, tile, and carpet cleanersTurpentine: Furniture polishes Furniture polishesPhosphoric acid: Liquid dishwasher detergents and bathroom cleaning products, especially those used on mildew and lime Liquid dishwasher detergents and bathroom cleaning products, especially those used on mildew and lime Not the type to mix vinegar, baking soda, peroxide, and salt to create your own safe cleaning solution? No problem. Green cleaning is in, even with the major manufacturers.

It's easy to find environment-friendly, nontoxic subst.i.tutes to tackle every area of your home that needs attention.

If you're convinced you can't find something that works as well as an unsafe product, make sure to keep your dog away from those surfaces until they're completely dry.

Of course, you're not going to be able to divest your house of everything that's potentially dangerous to your dog. In its animal poison control list, the ASPCA (aspca.org; click "Pet Care" and "Animal Poison Control") warns against everything from cold medications to post-1982 pennies.

The bottom line is to get rid of what you can, minimize exposure to what you won't, and store the rest in a safe, inaccessible place. Also keep the number of your vet and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center's 24-hour hotline handy: 1-888-426-4435.

88. WHICH PLANTS ARE SAFE TO HAVE AROUND MY DOG?.

This question is predicated on the reasonable a.s.sumption that at some point your dog will have an urge to eat something vegetal that's not on his regular menu. Frankie is particularly fond of gra.s.s, in spite-or perhaps because-of the fact that it tends to make him throw up.

Puke-inducement notwithstanding, munching gra.s.s doesn't present a health problem, but you'd be amazed at how many seemingly benign flowers and plants can (at minimum) cause more serious stomach upset, and (at maximum) be fatal. The ASPCA puts amaryllis, azaleas, chrysanthemums, cyclamen, English ivy, oleanders, pothos, rhododendrons, schefflera, and tulips on its top offenders list.106 See See www.aspca.org (under "Pet Care," "Animal Poison Control," and "Toxic Plants") for the complete list of 17 Common Poisonous Plants, as well as for the more comprehensive lists of plants to avoid and plants to plant. (under "Pet Care," "Animal Poison Control," and "Toxic Plants") for the complete list of 17 Common Poisonous Plants, as well as for the more comprehensive lists of plants to avoid and plants to plant.

Of course, even the most benign plants can be rendered dangerous with the use of chemical herbicides, insecticides, and pesticides. Among the most toxic are those containing methomyl, metaldehyde, disyston or disulfoton, and zinc phosphide.

Nonchemical fertilizers are generally dog friendly-with important exceptions. Cocoa bean mulch, for example, contains, well, cocoa beans, and thus theobromine and caffeine-the same ingredients that make brownies verboten to dogs.

I was about to suggest things you could do to minimize the hazards if you insist on using chemicals in your yard, but it occurred to me that any toxins you use will inevitably infiltrate the water supply. If you want to be a bad global citizen, let someone else be an enabler; I'm not going to tell you how to poison me and Frankie.

89. IS THERE A WAY TO KEEP MY DOG FROM DIGGING UP MY GARDEN?.

Probably-but first you need to dig into your dog's psyche to get at the source of her underground urges.

A great deal of tunneling is breed related. Terriers, for example, live to search and destroy prey, the more deeply embedded the better, while furry northern breeds like Siberian Huskies try to escape the heat by creating underground shelters. But some types of digging transcend genes (if not always gender). Unneutered males-especially those with strong noses-dig to get out of Dodge and hit on girls in heat, and pups of every variety move dirt around to escape boredom.

Finding the source of the digging urge can help you figure out whether to try to eliminate or redirect it.

Keeping your Siberia-bound digger indoors at the hottest time of day or during the warmest months, for example, might suffice to eliminate his excavations, while providing chew toys, especially food-oriented ones, could alleviate boredom (see Chapter 7 for other entertainment options).