Am I Boring My Dog? Part 5

46. DOES MY DOG NEED SUPPLEMENTS?.

It depends on the diet she's following-and how you feel about supplements. I try to eat enough vegetables, fish, cheese, and chocolate and drink sufficient quant.i.ties of red wine to fulfill my daily vitamin and antioxidant requirements without resorting to pills. Because Frankie can't follow the same regimen, I give him calcium and a multivitamin. Those who buy packaged dog food-as opposed to home cooking-shouldn't need to add nutrients; that's what AAFCO approval is meant to ensure. And as with the human varieties, pet supplements aren't regulated. If you're thinking about buying mineral-enhanced designer water for your dog, I have some oceanfront property in Tucson that might interest you, too. But that doesn't mean I necessarily recommend unfiltered tap water. As has been widely reported, the water systems of several cities throughout the United States are laced with pharmaceuticals-the result of people flus.h.i.+ng expired drugs down the toilet. You really don't want to dose your dog with even small quant.i.ties of antibiotics-or with v.i.a.g.r.a.

47. HOW DO I GET MY DOG TO BE LESS PICKY?.

I've heard it suggested, including by vets, that if your dog is "gaming" you by not eating his food, stop feeding him for a few days. When he's hungry enough, he'll eat whatever you put in his bowl.

I don't question the effectiveness of that advice. It would doubtless work on a picky child, too. So what if the snubbed food has the potential to make your dog sick-which is why he didn't eat it in the first place? You've proved your dominance over a starving pet.

True, dogs can be manipulative. Frankie sometimes barks and rushes to the front door, even if there's no one there, hoping that after I've left my desk, I'll head to the refrigerator for a snack-and give him one, too. (Okay, I admit it worked a few times; I'm on to him now, though!) But doggie deception is generally geared toward getting food, or getting more of it, not acquiring a particular kind. Trust your pup. Dogs have-and develop-food sensitivities and allergies. If yours isn't eating the comestibles you give him, try different comestibles (yes, I'm trying to accustom you to that word, the better to popularize my future raw food diet).

It could also be a question of your dog not liking a food's texture or smell; the latter often occurs as dogs grow older and their sniffers get weaker. Adding a small portion of something more desirable to kibble often does the trick.

Food switching can upset a pup's stomach if you don't do it gradually, and it's essential to check with your vet if your dog has lost his appet.i.te. But dogs are, literally, creatures of habit, and don't mind eating the same thing every day if they like it.39 So if your pup balks at his dinner, he's trying to tell you something. Please listen. So if your pup balks at his dinner, he's trying to tell you something. Please listen.

48. IS IT OKAY TO GIVE MY DOG DIET PILLS IF SHE'S TOO HEAVY?

Sure, if you have money to burn and don't mind turning your dog into a guinea pig. Doggie diet aids are relatively new, but if they follow the path of the human variety, they're likely to prove harmful down the line. My prescription: feed your dog less-or better-and exercise her more. Canned pumpkin, for example, falls into the "better" category. It's a low-calorie-if you don't make the mistake of buying the sugar-filled kind-high-fiber food that makes your dog feel full. By subst.i.tuting pumpkin for half a portion of kibble, many owners have seen their pups shed unwanted weight. Because it's naturally sweet, most dogs really love it, too.

If your dog knows how to raid the refrigerator, get a good lock for it. If she's able to pick the lock, get her a job as a dog actor (or thief). She'll get plenty of exercise-and you'll have added incentive to keep her trim by avoiding overfeeding.

Of course, if she has an actual glandular problem, then pills are okay.

49. MY DOG HAS HALITOSIS. WILL THE BREATH MINTS I'VE SEEN IN PET STORES HELP?

They'll help for about as long as they help your alcoholic uncle Dave cover his whiskey breath at family gatherings. In dogs, bad breath is generally caused by tooth and gum problems. Forget the faux-candy cover-ups; you need to get to the source of your pooch's halitosis by checking with a vet or veterinary dentist.

50. SO DO I NEED TO BRUSH MY DOG'S TEETH?

I'm afraid so. Some 75 percent of dogs-the number is higher in small dogs-suffer from periodontal disease by the time they're two or three years old. It can be headed off, to a large extent, by beginning to brush in puppyhood. I avoided brus.h.i.+ng during my first few years with Frankie because, well, I didn't want to. His teeth are short but sharp, and I suspected he'd be opposed to having me put anything besides food or toys into his mouth. Besides, I never let him chew gum or eat sugary snacks.40

The bottom line: At one point in my quest for a diabetes-friendly diet, three different vets looked into Frankie's mouth, clucked, and recommended a professional cleaning, suggesting that, if unchecked, the bacteria ma.s.sing in Frankie's gums might course through his immunity-impaired bloodstream and attack his heart, brain, lungs, and liver. Doggie dentistry and muzzles being mutually exclusive, the procedure requires general anesthesia, which makes it very expensive. And by the time I got him to the dentist, he had to have seven teeth removed.

To ensure that Frankie won't end up capable only of gumming his food-or look even more like a little redneck pup than he already does-I became a teeth-cleaning fool.

Note: Don't fall for advertis.e.m.e.nts for anesthesia-free cleanings outside of a vet's office. For one thing, the dangers of anesthesia have been greatly exaggerated; under proper monitoring, the risk is minimal. More to the point, non-professional plaque removal is worse than no cleaning at all. Periodontal disease starts below the gum line-an area that's painful to reach. The purely cosmetic cleaning that a groomer can legally perform may fool you into thinking that your dog's teeth are healthy when they aren't. Moreover, such necessary adjunct procedures as x-rays, polis.h.i.+ng, and flouride rinse have to be done under anesthesia in order to be effective and safe. The cost? Again, pay now or pay later. In dogs, as in humans, scientists are increasingly finding links between periodontal disease and heart disease and other life-threatening conditions. Don't fall for advertis.e.m.e.nts for anesthesia-free cleanings outside of a vet's office. For one thing, the dangers of anesthesia have been greatly exaggerated; under proper monitoring, the risk is minimal. More to the point, non-professional plaque removal is worse than no cleaning at all. Periodontal disease starts below the gum line-an area that's painful to reach. The purely cosmetic cleaning that a groomer can legally perform may fool you into thinking that your dog's teeth are healthy when they aren't. Moreover, such necessary adjunct procedures as x-rays, polis.h.i.+ng, and flouride rinse have to be done under anesthesia in order to be effective and safe. The cost? Again, pay now or pay later. In dogs, as in humans, scientists are increasingly finding links between periodontal disease and heart disease and other life-threatening conditions.

If you're wondering how to convince your own dirty-mouthed dog to submit to this process, here are some tips.

START SLOWLY AND STAY UPBEAT.

Getting your dog used to having a foreign object that isn't food or a toy in his mouth is more than half the battle. Dip your finger into low-salt beef or chicken bouillon, let your dog lick it off, and then rub your bouillon-soaked finger gently over a small area of teeth and gums (luckily, you don't have to get inside the teeth; your dog takes care of that with his tongue).

Act excited, like this invasion of dental privacy is a treat, until you've managed to convince your dog to be equally enthusiastic. Expect it to take a few days, minimum.

ADD ABRASIVENESS.

In surface, not att.i.tude. Continue to be enthusiastic while, with a finger now swathed in bouillon-soaked gauze, you rub the teeth and gums with small circular motions.

SWITCH FROM BOUILLON TO TOOTHPASTE (OR RINSE OR GEL).

But not to your brand, which can upset your dog's stomach; dogs can't be trained to rinse and spit, so yours is going to swallow whatever you use. Mint isn't a preferred taste, in any case; canine toothpaste flavors range from malt and chicken to wild salmon.

Note: This step can be eliminated and you can continue to use low-sodium bouillon if your dog likes it. It's cheaper and, except for the small amount of salt, doesn't have any potentially unhealthy ingredients.

SWITCH RUBBING INSTRUMENTS.

When your dog is used to the toothpaste, get him accustomed to whatever instrument you plan to use. Options include toothbrushes, dental sponges, and dental pads. I like the finger brush, a kind of rubber finger puppet with a rough surface at the tip. It gives you more control, or at least the illusion of it. If you use a brush, work the toothpaste down deep into the bristles; otherwise, your dog will just eat the toothpaste and skip the uninteresting part of the process.

MOVE INTO VIRGIN TOOTH TERRITORY.

After you've got your dog used to the toothbrush or toothbrush surrogate and toothpaste in a small part of her mouth, keep adding teeth to the procedure, until you get them all.

The good news: dogs' teeth are too close together to require flossing.

51. ARE CHLOROPHYLL BONES AND OTHER CHEWS AS EFFECTIVE AS BRUs.h.i.+NG?.

No. According to the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC www.vohc.org), brus.h.i.+ng is the gold standard. Although the VHOC does approve some products in the following categories as complementary to dental health, the cure may be worse than the disease-especially because, unlike brus.h.i.+ng which is interactive by definition, not everyone remembers the importance of supervising a chewing pup.

CHLOROPHYLL BONES.

The best known of these, Greenies, were taken off the market temporarily a few years ago because they caused fatal blockages in several dogs. The chewed pieces reconst.i.tuted themselves, gluelike, in their stomachs. Greenies were reformulated to eliminate that problem, but these and similar products can still cause choking if dogs eat pieces that are too large-this usually occurs when owners ignore the size/weight recommendation-or don't chew them sufficiently. That could be said for any food, of course, but it certainly defeats the teeth-cleaning goal in this case.

RAWHIDE.

These addictive leather strips may pose multiple threats to your dog. Toxic chemicals used to cure and strip hair from the animal hides may include a.r.s.enic and formaldehyde, and carcinogenic dyes, such as Red 30, are often used to color the hides and give them flavors such as bubble gum and teriyaki. Because dogs spend hours chewing these strips, they get maximum exposure to these toxins.41 Consider, too, that rawhide expands to four times its size when soaked in liquid. This means that if your dog swallows large enough pieces, they can expand and cause intestinal blockages-just as the original Greenies did.

That's not to suggest you should never use rawhides, as they're a good way to keep mouthy pups from chewing even more potentially dangerous-or valuable-stuff. Just choose the type you buy carefully. The Whole Dog Journal The Whole Dog Journal emphasizes the importance of sticking to rawhides made in the United States, and especially recommends those made by Wholesome Hide in Chicago. emphasizes the importance of sticking to rawhides made in the United States, and especially recommends those made by Wholesome Hide in Chicago.

a.s.sORTED BODY PARTS.

Hooves, tendons, ears, snouts, knuckles, and even p.e.n.i.ses ... if there's a cow or pig part that can be sold as a dog chew, it's on the market. These anatomical edibles are promoted as all-natural, and many of them are indeed just desiccated versions of the originals. Others, especially those produced in countries outside the United States, contain dangerous preservatives. Conversely, if they're not preserved well enough, they may contain salmonella bacteria. And the good brands are expensive.

Everyone has a gross-out threshold. I reach mine with food items that bear too close a resemblance to their origins. In addition to meeting that criterion, hooves are very hard, which means dogs can crack their teeth on them. I'm told, moreover, that they smell really pungent, as do bull p.e.n.i.ses, a.k.a. bullysticks.42 Much to my relief, Frankie wasn't interested in the pig's ear I once brought home-being a rescue, he could be kosher for all I know-and I've avoided similar items ever since. Much to my relief, Frankie wasn't interested in the pig's ear I once brought home-being a rescue, he could be kosher for all I know-and I've avoided similar items ever since.

CHAPTER 5.

GROOMING AND ACCESSORIZING.

52. IS GROOMING ONLY FOR POODLES43 AND OTHER FROU-FROU DOGS? AND OTHER FROU-FROU DOGS?.

Definitely not. These procedures, key to your dog's health and well-being, shouldn't be confused with fancy hairdos. If the word grooming sounds too metros.e.xual, think of it in automotive terms: body work (maintenance of the overall exterior, or coat) and detailing (focusing on the smaller but essential parts like feet, ears, eyes, and teeth).

53. DO I HAVE TO GO TO A PROFESSIONAL GROOMER OR CAN I GROOM MY DOG MYSELF?.

It depends on the type of dog you have, the way you'd like her to look, your income, and the steadiness of your hands with clippers for hair and nails. Most people let a groomer take care of some things and do others themselves.

I have no problem, for example, brus.h.i.+ng and bathing Frankie and giving him impromptu haircuts, but he's small-which means resistance is futile-and his fine, wavy hair lends itself to the tousled Benji look. Expressing his a.n.a.l sacs and tr.i.m.m.i.n.g his toenails? No, thank you.

At a minimum, though, you should brush your dog regularly, the better to stimulate the skin and allow natural oils to circulate. Brus.h.i.+ng or combing sessions are also an opportunity to peer at your dog's pelt and, while you're there, check out her ears, eyes, and teeth. Mats (as matted hair is known) and knots can cause skin irritations and, eventually, infections. If you don't pay attention, fungi and insects-and, in very large dogs, squirrels and small children-may take up residence in tangled hair. So keep up with regular body-monitoring and hair care before problems become severe, painful, and costly to resolve.

The best time to get your dog accustomed to brus.h.i.+ng and clipping is during puppyhood, but if you adopt an adult dog who isn't used to being groomed, go slowly, introducing different procedures one at a time and a.s.sociating each with treats and praise. Many dogs have sensitive areas, especially their paws-what's with that, anyway?-so tread particularly carefully in those places.

If you're trying to decide just how hands-on you want to get, pick up a comprehensive guide like the Everything Dog Grooming Book Everything Dog Grooming Book by Sandy Blackburn or a demonstration video. by Sandy Blackburn or a demonstration video.

54. DO I NEED SPECIAL EQUIPMENT TO TAKE CARE OF MY DOG'S COAT?

To a certain degree, yes. But it doesn't have to be expensive. Most of the required hair rakes, combs, and brushes cost less than $10. Even with clippers, which are pricier, there's a point of diminis.h.i.+ng returns. If you don't invest about $250 or $300 for a sharp, smooth-cutting version, you're likely to give your dog a hairdo that borders on animal abuse (or at least fas.h.i.+on victimhood). But high-status, high-tech clippers that run as high as $650 won't produce better results; in less-than-skilled hands, their cuts can still be unkind. The good news for anyone put off by the term grooming: some of the equipment is very macho sounding-for example, the FURminator, which many vets recommend.

Each type of coat requires a different set of tools-and a different frequency of use. And mixed breeds may have hair44 that doesn't follow any strict rules for care. The following is just a rough guide of what to expect, going from highest to lowest maintenance. that doesn't follow any strict rules for care. The following is just a rough guide of what to expect, going from highest to lowest maintenance.

LONG-COATED.

These breeds, which include Afghans, Maltese, and Yorkies-essentially, all the ones that look like trotting mops at dog shows-and several types of spaniels, require constant attention because their fine, cottony hair gets matted and tangled easily. Ideally, you should run a fine-tooth metal comb through your dog's hair every day, even if it's just a quick sweep. Using a wire slicker brush on the hair a few times a week is also recommended, as is seeing a groomer every other month.

DOUBLE-COATED.

These furry and and hairy pups, which include Pomeranians, Shelties, Huskies, Collies, and Akitas, may fool you: their coats can look fluffy and neat but hide a matted mess underneath. That's why you have to go below the surface to the undercoat, using tools like a grooming rake or the aforementioned FURMINATOR, a blade tool. You should brush weekly, at least, and visit a groomer every three months. Not only is this a good plan for your dog, but it'll help with the housekeeping (see the following question regarding shedding). hairy pups, which include Pomeranians, Shelties, Huskies, Collies, and Akitas, may fool you: their coats can look fluffy and neat but hide a matted mess underneath. That's why you have to go below the surface to the undercoat, using tools like a grooming rake or the aforementioned FURMINATOR, a blade tool. You should brush weekly, at least, and visit a groomer every three months. Not only is this a good plan for your dog, but it'll help with the housekeeping (see the following question regarding shedding).

Note: One of the reasons that both long-haired and double-coated dogs need to be brushed, combed, and/or raked regularly is that you don't want their coats to get to the point where they need to be shaved off entirely. Coats don't always grow back properly, so your dog may end up with endless bad hair days. Worse, while waiting for her body-cover to reappear, your pup may suffer from sunburn, windburn, and insect bites-not to mention the itchiness and irritation of p.r.i.c.kly hairs. Short haircuts are fine for warm weather but don't overdo the clip-jobs. One of the reasons that both long-haired and double-coated dogs need to be brushed, combed, and/or raked regularly is that you don't want their coats to get to the point where they need to be shaved off entirely. Coats don't always grow back properly, so your dog may end up with endless bad hair days. Worse, while waiting for her body-cover to reappear, your pup may suffer from sunburn, windburn, and insect bites-not to mention the itchiness and irritation of p.r.i.c.kly hairs. Short haircuts are fine for warm weather but don't overdo the clip-jobs.

CURLY/WAVY.

Caring for this type of coat can range from the simple brush-and-trims I give Frankie, whose hair is not only wispy but naturally short (it stops growing beyond an inch or so), to the constant vigilance required for poodles and other water dogs with thick, curly mops that grow long and wild if not kept in check. On the plus side, these dogs have only one coat, so what you see is what you get. Brus.h.i.+ng with a pin or slicker brush, raking, and then combing carefully usually takes care of the preliminaries, to be followed by clipping as straightforward or fancy as you like.

SHORT-COATED.

These trim-haired pups, among them, Boxers, Pugs, Pit Bulls, and dogs with giveaway names like German Short-Haired Pointers, require only a rubber mitt or coa.r.s.e washcloth for coat care, which is more like a rubdown-more good news for the macho-than a hairdressing session.

55. WILL TAKING REGULAR CARE OF MY DOG'S HAIR PREVENT SHEDDING?

No. Shedding is a natural, ongoing process for dogs, just as it is for humans. As anyone who's ever worn a black sweater or jacket can attest, regular brus.h.i.+ng and combing won't prevent a bit of hair divestment. But some dogs, like some people (say, males of a certain age), shed more than others. The double-coated breeds are the worst offenders; many send forth so much hair that they practically create an alternative dog,45 giving rise to the expression "blowing coat." giving rise to the expression "blowing coat."

The only consolation is that this ma.s.s exodus of hair is seasonal, and therefore predictable. Increases in daylight and warmth in spring signal certain canine brains to release hormones that spur the dogs' undercoat to grow and push off their topcoats. A similar, though somewhat less dramatic, version of this process occurs in fall, when the pups know they need to grow a new winter coat (unlike kids who always require back-to-school wear, at least dogs do it themselves and never demand designer labels).

A few things can interfere with regular shedding. If you keep a dog who's genetically programmed to shed seasonally indoors most of the time, he may not register natural changes in temperature and light and therefore shed year-round. Copiously. Which proves it's a bad idea to mess with Mother Nature. Using human shampoo on your dog can dry her skin, and even dog shampoos with perfumes that are not from natural sources may result in hypersensitivity-additional causes of shedding. Excitement and stress can trigger hair-loss hormones, too (if you can't get your dog to meditate, consider Doga). In rare cases, excessive shedding may be a symptom of a health problem, from a food allergy to a thyroid imbalance. If your dog isn't the shedding sort or if the off-season hair loss seems excessive, check with your vet.

Still, if shedding can't be prevented through grooming, it can be managed by it. It's far better to have hairs concentrated on a brush or on a newspaper than randomly faux-carpeting your floor or creating furry throws for your couch. You can entrap large swathes of your dog's coat with a rake or deshedding tool, even-or especially-during her molting season.

There's always the vacuuming fallback. See Chapter 9 for details.

56. WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WAs.h.i.+NG MY DOG?.

First, I'd like to address the question of who benefits from a dog was.h.i.+ng. I've read that dogs love being clean. Ha. If they're so keen on personal hygiene, why do dogs persist in rolling around on bird carca.s.ses? Why do they resist our efforts to wash them, and show no interest in was.h.i.+ng themselves (licking their privates doesn't count)?

If they really wanted to be clean, they would be cats.

Brus.h.i.+ng and other types of waterless-aside from a little spritzing with conditioner-grooming generally suffice to distribute oils, prevent skin irritations, and remove bugs. In short: the prime reason to subject your pup to full body immersion with a soap product is that you don't want her to stink.

Which is understandable. Dogs tend to invade your personal s.p.a.ce, and even the most malodorous don't take hints or even direct instruction about bathing. But not all dogs smell bad. Short-haired dogs and lap dogs, for example, need fewer baths than long-haired breeds who enjoy romping outside in disgusting debris, or than retrievers and other pups with oily, water-repelling coats that get, well, rancid.

So bathe your dog regularly if you like-with a few caveats, noted later. Just don't delude yourself that you're doing it to make her happy.

LOCATION.

Bathing is, at best, a messy process. The larger the dog and the more unwilling she is to get wet, the messier it will be. To avoid shampoo residue from remaining in your dog's fur and drying her skin, you need sufficient s.p.a.ce and water pressure for a proper rinsing. A small indoor plastic tub won't cut it.

Some people have enough room and enough disposable income to build separate was.h.i.+ng and rinsing bays for their dogs. Others manage to lure their pups into a shower, fit them into a sink with a showerhead attachment, or hose them down in a backyard. A lot of pet stores now have self-service bathing stations, and many cities even have dedicated dog washes (the one in my neighborhood is called Dirty Dawgs).

Wherever you decide to shampoo your dog, remember the rinse cycle is key. Be aware, too, that your dog will shake herself vigorously after these ablutions. No matter how well you've toweled her, flying water will be involved.

PREPARATION.

a.s.suming you're doing this at home, lay out the shampoo-don't forget that the human variety can cause doggie dandruff and other skin irritations-and old towels in advance.

Have two or three towels available, lest you end up even wetter than you're likely to be anyway. Here's a key to the proper size for your needs: Hand or bar towels-teacup breeds onlyStandard size-fewer than 25 poundsBath size-25 to 75 poundsBath sheet-75 to 100 poundsFamily size beach towel or Army surplus blanket-more than 100 pounds PROCEDURES.

Brush the tangles and small creatures out of your dog's coat first, clipping out intractable mats and sticky stuff such as tar or bubble gum.

Wet your dog thoroughly before applying shampoo. Work in small circles near the skin so as to avoid hair tangling. Then rinse, rinse, rinse, making sure all the soap residue comes out. Try not to get any water in the ears.

Pat your pup down well with towels, then let her air dry (but not in the yard or anywhere near dirt; it's a well-known fact that there's a magnetic attraction between just-washed dogs and soil). You can use a doggie dryer or a human one that doesn't employ heat-never, ever use one that does-but unless your dog is very small you'll be exhausted by now. Your job is done. Let nature take its course.

FREQUENCY.

As needed-let your nose guide you. Monthly is fairly standard. Was.h.i.+ng more than once a week is unhealthy-though not necessarily for your dog, if you do it correctly. Rather, too-frequent canine bathing suggests you've got a cleanliness fetish. Find a hobby or take your germ-phobia out on your house.

57. WHAT OTHER PARTS OF MY DOG DO I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT?.

I've already discussed the need for dental care in Chapter 4 (see question 50). Paws and ears are also prime grooming targets.

PAWS.

Not all dogs need their nails trimmed. Some file their own nails by walking or running on hard surfaces. Pups that don't pound the pavement, however, and small breeds that don't weigh enough to successfully self-file need pedicures. Overlong nails can get caught in carpets or clothing, or become ingrown and infected. They can also throw off a dog's gait-which, for older pooches, can exacerbate arthritis pain.