Am I Boring My Dog? Part 9

Formalities A professional should have you fill out a form with your emergency numbers (including that of your vet); provide you with his emergency contact information; ask you to confirm in writing that your dog has had all the required shots and identification/registration (in case she's an escape artist), and has no history of serious aggression; and provide you with a contract that specifies which services will be rendered and when-and how much you'll pay for them.

Before you sign on, go for a test walk (with payment of course): just you, your dog, and the dog walker. See how your pup-and any p.o.o.p she might produce-is handled. If your dog walker doesn't scoop, she's either not paying attention to your dog or she's a bad global citizen.

DAYCARE.

Forget sterile rooms with cramped cages. Today's doggie daycare (a.k.a. doggie day camp) is likely to resemble nursery school more than it does a kennel, replete with organized play-, nap-, and snack periods and even webcams that let you see what your pup is up to. Organized activities often abound, with training filling in for coloring. Indeed, some doggie daycare centers outs.h.i.+ne the kiddie versions; the latter are unlikely to have hairdressers or doctors on site.

In spite of all these extras, daycare might be more cost effective than a dog walking service. For one thing, you don't have to-in fact shouldn't-send your dog every day. Limiting daycare to two or three times a week keeps your dog from getting overstimulated and from considering the experience mundane. And rates are not generally outrageous. A spot check of upscale facilities around the country showed costs ranging from $25 for a half day for dogs weighing under 25 pounds in Scottsdale to $55 for a full day for plus size pups (more than 85 pounds) in Manhattan. Members.h.i.+p or monthly pa.s.ses lower the rates even more.

How to find a good play center? The same way as you find dog walkers, many of whom may be affiliated with daycare centers. In some major metropolitan areas, daycare/boarding facilities are rated online, similar to hotels and restaurants.

You should also have the same concerns, from treatment philosophy to p.o.o.p-scooping. Ask questions in advance, and then observe the proceedings without your dog. If possible, arrange to go in during a play period, so you can see how the group is handled.

The service contract that requires you to provide detailed information, including emergency contacts and authorization for emergency treatment, is even more crucial. Your dog, of course, has been neutered or spayed and has had all the required vaccinations, but if the center doesn't insist on verification, it means they're not confirming the data on all the other, less perfect, dogs.

Staff Again, think dog walkers, multiplied: expect, at a minimum, to find people who like and know how to handle dogs. They should be able to gauge when dogs need a rest, and when they need to be separated from each other-and how to accomplish that. Knowledge of training is a bonus. If there's no vet on staff-some places have them-there should be one on call.

Staff quant.i.ty is also important. There shouldn't be more than 10 dogs per staff person (and more than 35 to 40 dogs, total, at a facility is pus.h.i.+ng it).

Environment Is there enough room-and is it well divided, so that dogs have separate areas for play and rest? If there are crates, are they large enough for comfort? Some people insist on no-crate facilities but if your dog is used to being crated, there's nothing wrong with providing him with an escape he's used to. That said, you'd want a doggie cam-or spot visit-to prove that your dog is not caged all day.

Do the floors have no-skid rubber surfaces? Concrete can be bad for footpads and painful for arthritic dogs or pups with hip problems.

Are nontoxic cleaners used? Of course you don't want a place to smell bad, but the (cleaning) solution can be worse than the problem. Chlorine bleach-based products produce toxic fumes when mixed with the ammonia in urine. A daycare should know the basics of pet chemistry; otherwise, who knows what else they don't know?

Is the daycare well ventilated and temperature controlled? Your dog should have plenty of air, and not be subjected to extremes of either heat or cold. If you wouldn't be comfortable there, your dog probably wouldn't be either.

If there's a yard that the dogs play in, is it secure? Can your escape artist manage to scale the fence or dig under it?

Interaction with other dogs How often will the dogs be together? Too much playtime can be exhausting; too little may mean too little exercise. Are the activities organized or carefully supervised, or are there doggie free-for-alls? Are dogs grouped by size and activity level (hyper versus low key) when they play? Again, groups should be small enough to allow good staff supervision.

How does the staff handle introducing new dogs? You should expect your dog to be presented to each dog individually, rather than just being thrown into the pack. Are all collars removed? During rough play, dogs can get entangled, and I don't mean romantically. (Of course, romantic entanglement would be undesirable, too, which is why pups that are not spayed or neutered are banned from daycare.)

Amenities Some places offer food (at an extra cost), but it's better to provide your own; dogs don't do well with diet changes. Still, if another dog steals your pooch's dinner, it's good to know he won't go hungry. As I noted before, some places offer everything from training to grooming. If the price is right-and the other dogs using the services look attractive and are polite-why not take advantage of these one-stop options?

NETWORKING.

If you can't afford either dog walking or daycare-or prefer something less formal-consider arranging play dates or care exchanges through such online networks as dogster.com or or pawspot.com.

It's like Internet dating, only with less stress about whether you'll be considered attractive and more concern about getting bitten (depending on the sites you ordinarily frequent, of course; you may be vampire oriented). Get to know the other owner in a public place and make sure your dogs get along before going to someone else's home or inviting someone into yours.

There are no guarantees, but there are none in professional care either. And it may be the start of a beautiful doggie friends.h.i.+p.

77. WHAT ORGANIZED ACTIVITIES ARE AVAILABLE FOR ME TO DO WITH MY DOG?.

What activities aren't aren't available is the better question. I was amazed-and exhausted just contemplating-how many things there are to do with dogs in a group, and how many t.i.tles you (collectively) can aspire to. Nor are the games just for purebreds, as they were in the past; many now have versions geared to the doggie hoi polloi. The only prerequisite: your dog has to be trained to follow instructions. available is the better question. I was amazed-and exhausted just contemplating-how many things there are to do with dogs in a group, and how many t.i.tles you (collectively) can aspire to. Nor are the games just for purebreds, as they were in the past; many now have versions geared to the doggie hoi polloi. The only prerequisite: your dog has to be trained to follow instructions.

For the full range of possibilities, including carting, hunting, Schutzhund (which is as scary as it sounds), sheepherding, skijoring, tracking, and water sports (though not synchronized swimming), see DogPlay (www.dogplay.com). To find events in your area, check the American Kennel Club (AKC; www.akc.org) event search option or Google the name of your city and the activity you're interested in. Many pet stores post events, too.

The following are the five most popular sports and are open to the greatest number of dogs.

AGILITY.

Started in the late 1970s in London, and modeled on horse show jumping, agility has come to mean many things to many dog people-all of whom agree it's a blast. Essentially, you direct your dog through an obstacle course-which almost always involves seesaws, tables, poles, tires, and lots of weaving around and jumping-and are judged on both time and accuracy.

COMPEt.i.tIVE OBEDIENCE.

Sure your dog can sit and stay in the privacy of your own home, but can she-and you-perform under pressure? Various levels of command conformity range from the Novice Long Sit (no whining permitted) to Advanced Scent Discrimination, where your dog must identify leather and metal items that you've touched. Who knew there were arenas in which strong body odor was a plus?

CANINE FREESTYLE (A.K.A. MUSICAL FREESTYLE).

If Frankie was more coordinated,79 this is the compet.i.tion I'd most want to try. Nicknamed "dancing with dogs," it sets obedience to music, with routines that partic.i.p.ants create. Costumes may or may not be part of the proceedings. this is the compet.i.tion I'd most want to try. Nicknamed "dancing with dogs," it sets obedience to music, with routines that partic.i.p.ants create. Costumes may or may not be part of the proceedings.

FLYING DISC.

You know your dog's a natural, so why just toss a Frisbee around the park when you can impress far more people with his prowess? Events include "toss and fetch" (a.k.a. "mini-distance" or "throw and catch"), a straightforward skill demonstration using a single disc; and "dynamic freestyle," the Cirque du Soleil of the sport, involving short routines to music with multiple discs. Expect lots of spinning, leaping, and other physical pyrotechnics.

FLYBALL.

If both you and your dog play well with others, this relay-style agility compet.i.tion with hurdles and tennis b.a.l.l.s may be your sport. If no pooch misses a hurdle or drops a tennis ball, the team that completes the course with the fastest time wins.

Also popular with mixed breeds are Earthdog, which simulates tunneling for simulated rodents; Strong Dog, similar to Earthdog, but the faux rodents have to be brought back to the handler; and Lure Coursing, chasing something fast-moving across a real, not simulated, field. See the National All-Breed Sporting a.s.sociation (NABSA; www.go-k9sport.org) for details on these games.

78. I'VE NEVER BEEN TO A DOG PARK. ARE THERE RULES?

Definitely; both stated and implicit. The former are usually posted and easy to follow (though not everyone does), but observing the latter is equally important if you want to fit in with the regulars. Dog parks are similar to playgrounds, with a bit more snarling and public peeing but no less sn.o.bbery and gossip.

First, a definition: A dog park-sometimes called a dog run-is an enclosed area set aside for dogs to play together off leash. Some are s.p.a.cious enough to offer separate areas for big and small dogs; others are parking lot size. Some are verdant and lush; others have dirt for decor. Picnic benches and tables may be provided; sometimes it's BYO folding chairs. Water and baggies for cleanups are usually available.

Not all dogs (or owners) are good candidates for dog parks. Again, shyness and aggressiveness are equally problematic. I took Frankie to a dog park about a month after I got him, without any preparation or training. He spent the entire time trying to jump into my lap or attach himself to my leg.

Frankie never did warm up to the dog park, which probably had more to do with occurrences in his mysterious past than with my foolish full-immersion introduction to it. Still, if I had a do-over, I would have come to the park during off hours-very early or following the after-work rush-when fewer dogs were around, and try to ease him into a new and stressful situation.

No matter how friendly your dog, some training-at minimum, obedience to a recall-is essential. There are bound to be renegades-their owners would say free spirits-at any dog park, but it takes two to tangle. Before you go, observe and have your pup engage in play, so you get a sense of what falls within the realm of normal. As per Chapter 6, it's important to know the basics of Doglish, especially your pup's dialect, so you can read body language effectively.

Finally, on the first visit, quit while you're ahead, i.e., while your dog is enjoying herself. Stay no more than 15 or 20 minutes. Your dog will look forward to returning if she's tantalized, not overtired. And if she forgets all her training, and doesn't want to come to you when you're ready to go home, cut her some slack. This is a new experience, and if she doesn't want to leave, it's been a successful one.

When you go: UNLEASH YOUR DOG AS SOON AS YOU'RE IN THE AREA WHERE IT'S PERMITTED, AND TAKE OFF HER COLLAR.

If your dog is tethered while others are running free, she'll be vulnerable, which is a prelude to a scuffle-as is the fact that she's likely to be protective of you if you're literally attached to her.

As I noted in the earlier daycare center section, collars can be dangerous during rough play. If you're in a secured area, there's no reason to leave one on. If you don't recognize your pup without his tags, you shouldn't be taking him out of the house.

DON'T BRING TREATS.

It's usually verboten, anyway, because all the dogs will sniff them out-and you don't want to be beset by the hungry hordes. And food is not only a source of dissent among canine contenders; bringing it will also annoy other owners whose dogs may be on a diet. If you do have treats and there's a particularly insistent pup, always ask the owner if it's okay to give her something. That'll go a long way toward smoothing any fur you've ruffled.

Water can be a source of strife, too, if it's not provided by the park. In that case, it may be a good idea to restrict drinking to before and after your park visit.

DON'T BRING TOYS THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO LOSE.

It's hard to keep track of pooch playthings under the best of circ.u.mstances, and with large numbers of dogs in motion ... forget it. You definitely don't want to bring along anything your dog is protective of and will fight to defend. Or that you'll fight to defend. Maybe it's a guy thing, but I've noticed that some men seem bound and determined to bring home their their dog's tennis ball, no matter how old and dirty, rather than one belonging to someone else's pup. dog's tennis ball, no matter how old and dirty, rather than one belonging to someone else's pup.

BE VIGILANT BUT DON'T HOVER.

It's important to keep an eye on your dog while you're in the park, but there's no point bringing him there if you're not going to let him have fun. Helicopter owners annoy both dogs and humans.

TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR DOG'S BEHAVIOR.

If your dog is bullying other dogs, it's up to you to get him under control-and to not bring him back until he's learned better park manners (that doesn't include talking in his indoor voice; raucous barking is what dog parks are all about).

Ideally, you'll be aware when a fight is about to break out and command your dog to return to you and/or create a distraction. But if there is a fracas and it involves your charge, you-and the other owner-need to try to disentangle the dogs. Some possibilities for accomplis.h.i.+ng that include making a loud noise such as clapping, throwing water at their heads, spraying them with citronella, or tossing a ball at their b.u.t.ts. For larger dogs, some experts suggest that each owner pull on the dog's back legs. Never grab a collar or otherwise put your hand near a dog's head; getting close to the teeth of an upset pup is a sure ticket to bite land.

The worst part of a dogfight may be the aftermath, when the humans get into the act. Try to stay calm, even-especially-if the fight was clearly the other dog's fault, and your dog is injured. Garnering sympathy for the plight of your poor pup, both on the part of the offending party and among witnesses, is more likely to get your vet bill paid than making yourself obnoxious. Don't forget to gather names and contact information. 80 80 In most cases, it's hard to a.s.sign blame, so drop the defensiveness, own up to your dog's role, and split any costs. In most cases, it's hard to a.s.sign blame, so drop the defensiveness, own up to your dog's role, and split any costs.

CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG.

If I seem obsessed with feces, it's not because I'm a clean freak or a coprophiliac. It's just that we, the collective dog community, have to put our best feet forward because if other people put their feet forward into something stinky, they'll blame the dogs, and try to get dog-friendly facilities shut down.

CHAPTER 8.

FUN AND GAMES ON THE ROAD.

79. I WANT TO GO ON VACATION WITH MY DOG. WHAT'S THE BEST MODE OF TRANSPORTATION?

RV or motor home. I never thought I'd write those words in a travel advice context, but if you're vacationing with family or friends, it's a great canine conveyance.

I saw the error of my sn.o.bbish ways when my friends Linda and Daniela bought an RV for their two-dog household. They came back from their first trip, to the California coast, raving about the experience.81 They never had to worry about finding dog-friendly lodgings or coordinating bathroom and food stops for people and pooches. They never had to worry about finding dog-friendly lodgings or coordinating bathroom and food stops for people and pooches.82 And they always had easy access to hiking trails and other outdoorsy attractions. I'm not suggesting that you necessarily go out and invest in your own gas guzzler (Linda and Daniela are otherwise very green, honest), but depending on fuel prices and your city of residence, renting one might be cost effective as well as convenient. And they always had easy access to hiking trails and other outdoorsy attractions. I'm not suggesting that you necessarily go out and invest in your own gas guzzler (Linda and Daniela are otherwise very green, honest), but depending on fuel prices and your city of residence, renting one might be cost effective as well as convenient.

Because buses and trains are not an option-except if you go with a charter; see the following question-your next best bet is car travel, which I'll discuss in question 80.

Planes? Unless you have a dog small enough to take into the cabin, don't mind traveling separately from your pup,83 or can afford a charter (see question 80), air travel is a bad idea. The pressure and temperature in the hold vary, making a noisy, noxious (think inhaling jet fuel fumes), and already terrifying experience even more terrifying and uncomfortable. And dogs can't even take chill pills. According to the American Veterinary Medical a.s.sociation, sedatives and tranquilizers can create respiratory and cardiovascular problems at increased alt.i.tudes. They can also mess up your dog's equilibrium-which means she can't brace herself when her carrier is moved. And who wants a dizzy dog? or can afford a charter (see question 80), air travel is a bad idea. The pressure and temperature in the hold vary, making a noisy, noxious (think inhaling jet fuel fumes), and already terrifying experience even more terrifying and uncomfortable. And dogs can't even take chill pills. According to the American Veterinary Medical a.s.sociation, sedatives and tranquilizers can create respiratory and cardiovascular problems at increased alt.i.tudes. They can also mess up your dog's equilibrium-which means she can't brace herself when her carrier is moved. And who wants a dizzy dog?

Even in the cabin, dogs with pushed-in faces, such as Pugs, are at an increased risk for breathing and heart problems. And because the carrier must fit under your seat-your dog won't be comfortable in the overhead baggage bins, the contents of which may s.h.i.+ft-that limits the size of your accompanying dog. At 11 pounds and normally nosed, Frankie would be a good flight candidate but so far, I haven't attempted it; I'm afraid he would balk at removing his shoes and taking everything out of his pockets for the security check.

That said, I know a lot of people and small dogs who travel happily together. Indeed pet.i.te pups are such popular flight companions that JetBlue recently initiated a JetPaws program (www.jetblue.com/jetpaws), with, naturally, a line of jet-friendly accessories. Even if you're not on the airline's route, log on to the website for useful information on pet jetsetting, including the required doc.u.mentation. Other airlines usually embed information on their carry-on canine policy somewhere on their websites. Make sure you verify that policy, including all fees (JetBlue, for example, charges $100 each way per doggy pa.s.senger) by phone well in advance of your flight and before you make a reservation.

Only one cruise line, Cunard, allows dogs on board, and then only for transatlantic crossings on the flags.h.i.+p Queen Mary 2. Queen Mary 2.

There are a limited number of kennel slots, and getting your dog's doc.u.ments approved takes months of advance planning. All in all, canine cruising is only for those who have lots of time and money. But if you fall into that category, why not take your dog to the continent for the grand Smells of Europe tour?

80. IS THERE SUCH A THING AS A DOG TRAVEL AGENT?.

Not really (although some Border Collies I know could probably organize trips for themselves and their people). Most of the companies that a.s.sist with travel arrangements are geared toward relocations rather than vacations. The closest you'll come is the Dogtravel Company (www.dogtravelcompany net), which is not a travel agency but a members club for the pup obsessed. The annual members.h.i.+p fee is inexpensive but travel can be pricy because the trains and planes used are all chartered. Still, if you choose a popular route or can gather together a large group, it might not cost all that much to have your Great Dane sitting next to you in the cabin (though I can't say what kind of leg room you'll have). net), which is not a travel agency but a members club for the pup obsessed. The annual members.h.i.+p fee is inexpensive but travel can be pricy because the trains and planes used are all chartered. Still, if you choose a popular route or can gather together a large group, it might not cost all that much to have your Great Dane sitting next to you in the cabin (though I can't say what kind of leg room you'll have).

That's not to suggest you won't find plenty of guidance for dog-centric travel. DogFriendly.com (the most comprehensive, with its own line of guides), (the most comprehensive, with its own line of guides), BringFido.com (the best looking and easiest to navigate but with limited lodging information), and (the best looking and easiest to navigate but with limited lodging information), and petswelcome.com (in between the two for appearance and utility, but with a good selection of off-beat lodgings) are among the increasing crop of websites that offer destination advice and travel tips along with booking engines for hotels. (in between the two for appearance and utility, but with a good selection of off-beat lodgings) are among the increasing crop of websites that offer destination advice and travel tips along with booking engines for hotels.

81. WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CAR TRAVEL WITH MY DOG?.

Sometimes politicians can be instructive, if only by providing negative examples. You should not, for example, emulate presidential candidate Mitt Romney, who put the family dog, Seamus, into a crate, strapped him to the roof of the station wagon, and drove 12 hours from Boston to Ontario. Romney cited as an example of "emotion-free crisis management" having to hose the excrement produced by the traumatized Seamus off the car's roof and windows. I suspect this didn't win him any votes from animal lovers.

Nor, on the other end of the spectrum, should you applaud California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, who vetoed a law that would have imposed a fine for driving with a dog in your lap. I have a personal stake in that misguided decision. When I visit my friend Clare in Santa Barbara, her dog, Archie, lounges politely in the back until we approach the beach-at which point he leaps into Clare's lap and squirms excitedly. Archie is a compact guy, but he's large enough to obstruct Clare's vision when he sits upright. Clare won't listen to me or to her other terrified pa.s.sengers but-being a lawyer and therefore an officer of the court, as well as an upstanding citizen-she would obey the law if it existed.

ADDITIONAL SAFETY TIPS.

Here are some additional safety tips you'll want to keep in mind when traveling.

Use restraint(s).

Buckle up for safety, both yours and your pup's. To those who argue that they don't want to restrict their dogs' freedom, I ask, "Would you want him to enjoy the freedom of going through the winds.h.i.+eld?" An unrestrained dog can become a projectile if you have to stop short.84 And just because your unsecured dog is out of projectile range of your winds.h.i.+eld, that doesn't mean she's safe from injury. It's very dangerous to let a dog ride in the open bed of a pickup truck. Approximately 100,000 dogs die every year from falling or jumping out of pickups and countless more are injured.

And untethered dogs pose not only safety issues but legal and economic ones. Many states have pa.s.sed variations of the law in Was.h.i.+ngton, where it's a misdemeanor to "willfully transport or confine ... any domestic animal ... in a manner, posture or confinement that will jeopardize the safety of the animal or the public." (Some laws specify that this includes having a dog in the back of a pickup truck.) Accordingly, if your unsecured dog causes an accident, your insurance is rendered invalid under many policies. And even if the accident is the other driver's fault, your vet bills won't be paid if your dog wasn't properly restrained.85 You'll achieve the best dog security with a harness-never, ever, a collar-hooked to the car's back seat belt. A regular harness will work in a pinch-pinch being the operative word-but the ones designed especially for travel have padding that insulates your dog against pressure caused by a sudden stop. The top models also have hooking mechanisms that let your dog move-though not too much-and are easy to click open and shut. See the "Product Reviews" section of AgilePooch.com for a travel halter comparison. for a travel halter comparison.

If your dog weighs fewer than 20 pounds, consider a booster seat, similar to the kiddie version. A pup that can gaze out the window is less likely to get bored or carsick (see the following).

Secured travel crates are another option, but even crate-trained dogs don't always respond well to being cooped up in a moving vehicle without being able to see where they're going. Some people use barriers that prevent their dogs from invading their personal driving s.p.a.ce, but these are tough to fit all cars and all dogs; some pups manage to get past everything but steel. Nor do barriers prevent dangerous jostling; a high-speed collision could put your dog in jeopardy if he hits a heavy wall.