Food Matters Part 13

4 large ripe fresh tomatoes, cored and chopped (about 3 cups)1 large white onion or 5 or 6 scallions, chopped2 teaspoons minced garlic, or to taste (optional if you're using all fruit)Minced fresh chile (like jalapeno, Thai, or less of habanero) or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne to taste1 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley leaves4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice or 2 tablespoons sherry or wine vinegarSalt and freshly ground pepper

Combine everything but the salt and pepper in a bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then taste and adjust the seasoning. If you have time, let the flavors mingle for 15 minutes or more before serving.

All-Purpose Tomato Sauce

Makes: 6 to 8 servings (about 1 quart) .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

A batch of tomato sauce is fast and easy. If you don't finish it in a few days you can freeze what's left; but I try to keep some in the fridge at all times, since it reheats well and is good on everything from steamed vegetables to simply cooked fish or chicken, and of course pasta or rice. You can also turn the tables and make the sauce the base for braised string beans, tofu, celery, or any combination: Parboil the vegetables if necessary, then finish cooking them in the sauce.

Note: You can buy prechopped tomatoes, or just chop them in the cans by swirling a knife through them. See the first variation for fresh sauce.

cup olive oil1 large onion or 2 medium onions, choppedAbout 4 pounds canned whole tomatoes (two 28-or 35-ounce cans), chopped, liquid reservedSalt and freshly ground black pepper cup chopped fresh parsley or basil leaves (optional)

1 Put the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes. Put the olive oil in a pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes.

2 Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture comes together and thickens a bit, 10 to 15 minutes. For a thinner sauce, add some or all of the reserved liquid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes; if you want a thick sauce, save it for another use. Taste, adjust the seasonings, stir in the herbs, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days; reheat gently before serving.) Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture comes together and thickens a bit, 10 to 15 minutes. For a thinner sauce, add some or all of the reserved liquid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes; if you want a thick sauce, save it for another use. Taste, adjust the seasonings, stir in the herbs, and keep warm. (Or let cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to several days; reheat gently before serving.)

Five Flavor Boosters for Basic Tomato SauceAdd any of these to the onions, right before stirring in the tomatoes: Chopped black or green olives, and/or capers, and/or anchoviesRed pepper flakes or a whole dried chile (fish it out later)A couple of bay leaves (fish them out later)1 ounce (or more) reconst.i.tuted dried porcini mushroomsThe rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese

Fresh Tomato Sauce: Instead of canned tomatoes, use chopped fresh (peeled and seeded if you like, but if not, so be it). Instead of canned tomatoes, use chopped fresh (peeled and seeded if you like, but if not, so be it).

Homemade Cooked Salsa: For either the main recipe or the fresh variation above. In Step 1, after the onions cook for about 2 minutes, add 2 or more chopped fresh jalapeno, serrano, or other fresh hot chiles (with the seeds if you like; they're hot), along with 2 tablespoons chopped garlic. Instead of parsley or basil, finish with chopped cilantro. For either the main recipe or the fresh variation above. In Step 1, after the onions cook for about 2 minutes, add 2 or more chopped fresh jalapeno, serrano, or other fresh hot chiles (with the seeds if you like; they're hot), along with 2 tablespoons chopped garlic. Instead of parsley or basil, finish with chopped cilantro.

Garlicky Tomato Sauce: Omit the onions. Chop 4 to 10 (or more) raw garlic cloves, or use 1 or 2 heads Fast Roasted Garlic; squeezed from the skins) and add them to the hot oil in Step 1. Reduce the cooking time to just a minute or so. Proceed with the recipe. Omit the onions. Chop 4 to 10 (or more) raw garlic cloves, or use 1 or 2 heads Fast Roasted Garlic; squeezed from the skins) and add them to the hot oil in Step 1. Reduce the cooking time to just a minute or so. Proceed with the recipe.

All-Purpose Tomato Sauce Spiked with Sausage or Meat: In Step 1, before stirring in the onions, brown a chopped Italian sausage, or pound ground meat; add the onions when the meat is just starting to loose its pink, and proceed with the recipe. In Step 1, before stirring in the onions, brown a chopped Italian sausage, or pound ground meat; add the onions when the meat is just starting to loose its pink, and proceed with the recipe.

Peeling Fruit (Including Tomatoes)To remove the skins from any fruit, get a pot of water boiling and set up a bowl of ice water near the stove. Immerse the fruit, one or a few pieces at a time, in boiling water for about 30 seconds, or until the skin loosens, then plunge into ice water to stop the cooking. The skin should peel off easily with a paring knife.

Quick Vegetable Stock

Makes: More than 2 quarts .

Time: 20 to 40 minutes Time: 20 to 40 minutes

Homemade stock is not only infinitely better than the packaged stuff but also easy to make. You can produce large quant.i.ties and freeze enough to have it on hand for soup, rice, beans-or anytime when you want more flavor than water.

Making stock is more art than science, so don't worry if you don't have all the ingredients here; use what you have, and subst.i.tute at will. Off-limits are strong-flavored greens (cabbage included-unless you want your stock to taste like cabbage), bell peppers, and eggplant. Don't even bother to peel the vegetables, just wash the skins well.

For a more robust, earthy flavor, toss in a handful of dried porcini (or sauteed fresh mushrooms). Dried or canned tomatoes add color and flavor. Or, try a couple of bay leaves and a few sprigs of fresh thyme for a more fragrant variation. For darker, richer stock, brown the vegetables in olive oil before adding the water. And there's no rule against adding a ham bone, turkey carca.s.s, chicken bones, or bit of leftover beef to the pot.

4 carrots, cut into chunks2 medium onions or 1 large onion, quartered2 potatoes, cut into chunks2 or 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped3 or 4 cloves of garlic20 or so stems of parsley, with or without leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Combine everything in a stockpot with 12 cups water, a pinch of salt, and some pepper. Bring to a boil and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily but gently. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Going longer will only improve the flavor, and a few minutes less won't hurt much, either. Combine everything in a stockpot with 12 cups water, a pinch of salt, and some pepper. Bring to a boil and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily but gently. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Going longer will only improve the flavor, and a few minutes less won't hurt much, either.

2 Strain, then taste and adjust the seasoning before using, taking care not to oversalt if you're reducing the stock further. Cool before refrigerating or freezing. Strain, then taste and adjust the seasoning before using, taking care not to oversalt if you're reducing the stock further. Cool before refrigerating or freezing.

Quick Shrimp or Fish Stock: The vegetables in the main recipe become optional; they add complexity but aren't essential. In Step 1, use the sh.e.l.ls from about 1 pound of shrimp or the bones and sc.r.a.ps from a pound or so of raw fish (your fishmonger often has these for sale or will give them away free). You won't need to simmer the stock as long to extract good flavor; 10 minutes or so ought to do the trick. Strain, season, and use or store as above. The vegetables in the main recipe become optional; they add complexity but aren't essential. In Step 1, use the sh.e.l.ls from about 1 pound of shrimp or the bones and sc.r.a.ps from a pound or so of raw fish (your fishmonger often has these for sale or will give them away free). You won't need to simmer the stock as long to extract good flavor; 10 minutes or so ought to do the trick. Strain, season, and use or store as above.

Roasted Red Peppers

Makes: 4 to 8 servings .

Time: 20 to 60 minutes Time: 20 to 60 minutes

It's as easy to make a big batch of roast peppers as a small batch, and since they keep for a few days in the fridge (even longer if you cover them in olive oil), why not? The basic idea is to char the skin-by broiling, roasting, or grilling-so it peels off easily, while developing maximum flavor and perfect tenderness.

You'll get the most smokiness from grilling, of course, but all methods are good. Once the peppers are done, toss them with minced fresh or roasted garlic, a sprinkle of grated Parmesan cheese, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar, a few capers or anchovies, or lots of chopped fresh herbs. They're delicious scrambled with eggs, or as a meaty sandwich filling.

8 red, yellow, or green bell peppers, washedSaltOlive oil as needed

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Or heat the broiler or a grill and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. To roast or broil: put the peppers in a foil-lined roasting pan, then roast or broil, turning the peppers as each side browns, until they have darkened and collapsed. The process takes 15 or 20 minutes in the broiler, or up to an hour in the oven. To grill: put the peppers directly over the heat. Grill, turning as each side blackens, until they collapse, about 15 minutes. Heat the oven to 450F. Or heat the broiler or a grill and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. To roast or broil: put the peppers in a foil-lined roasting pan, then roast or broil, turning the peppers as each side browns, until they have darkened and collapsed. The process takes 15 or 20 minutes in the broiler, or up to an hour in the oven. To grill: put the peppers directly over the heat. Grill, turning as each side blackens, until they collapse, about 15 minutes.

2 Wrap the cooked peppers in foil (if you roasted the peppers, use the same foil that lined the pan) and cool them enough to handle. Remove the skin, seeds, and stems (this process is sometimes easier under running water). Don't worry if the peppers fall apart. Serve at room temperature (even if they've been refrigerated), sprinkled with a little salt and a little (or a lot) of olive oil. Store in the refrigerator. Wrap the cooked peppers in foil (if you roasted the peppers, use the same foil that lined the pan) and cool them enough to handle. Remove the skin, seeds, and stems (this process is sometimes easier under running water). Don't worry if the peppers fall apart. Serve at room temperature (even if they've been refrigerated), sprinkled with a little salt and a little (or a lot) of olive oil. Store in the refrigerator.

Roasted Red Pepper Sauce: Put the roasted red peppers in a food processor or blender with a few drops of olive oil, stock, white wine, or water-just enough to get the machine working. Sprinkle with salt and pepper or add other ingredients (see the headnote) as you like. Put the roasted red peppers in a food processor or blender with a few drops of olive oil, stock, white wine, or water-just enough to get the machine working. Sprinkle with salt and pepper or add other ingredients (see the headnote) as you like.

Hybrid Quick Bread

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: About an hour, largely unattended Time: About an hour, largely unattended

An easy-to-make whole wheat bread with a little white flour for lightness. The covered baking technique ensures the biscuit-like crumb will remain light and fluffy. Like most quick breads, this is best warm from the oven or at least eaten the same day.

There are lots of possible variations. Stir in chopped fresh hot pepper, sauteed onion, olives, dried fruit, or nuts; to make this more like cornbread, subst.i.tute 1 cup cornmeal for a cup of the whole wheat flour, and add a cup or so of corn kernels if you like. If it's true whole grain bread you're after, see Almost No-Work Whole Grain Bread and Easy Whole Grain Flatbread.

cup olive oil, plus more for the pan2 cups whole wheat flour, plus more if needed1 cup all-purpose white flour, plus more as needed1 tablespoons baking powder1 teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoons salt, preferably coa.r.s.e or sea salt, plus more for sprinkling cup yogurt or b.u.t.termilk cup warm water2 tablespoons honey (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 375F. Grease a cookie sheet or 8-inch square baking pan with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Put the flours, baking powder, soda, and salt in a food processor and turn the machine on. Into the feed tube, pour first the cup olive oil, then the yogurt, most of the water, and the honey (if you're using it). Heat the oven to 375F. Grease a cookie sheet or 8-inch square baking pan with about a tablespoon of olive oil. Put the flours, baking powder, soda, and salt in a food processor and turn the machine on. Into the feed tube, pour first the cup olive oil, then the yogurt, most of the water, and the honey (if you're using it).

2 Process for a few seconds, until the dough is a well-defined, barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it is too dry, add the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 or 10 seconds after each addition. If it is too wet (this is unlikely), add 1 or 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour and process briefly. Process for a few seconds, until the dough is a well-defined, barely sticky, easy-to-handle ball. If it is too dry, add the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time and process for 5 or 10 seconds after each addition. If it is too wet (this is unlikely), add 1 or 2 tablespoons of whole wheat flour and process briefly.