Food Matters Part 16

Makes: About 6 servings .

Time: 30 to 40 minutes Time: 30 to 40 minutes

The secret to light whole grain pancakes is to beat the egg whites really well, so the batter can support not only all all whole grain flour-no mean feat-but small amounts of add-ins as well. Some ideas to get you started: cup cornmeal, rolled oats, or oat or wheat bran in place of cup of either flour; up to 2 tablespoons of ground flaxseed; add up to cup any light, cooked grains like couscous, millet, or quinoa; freshly grated orange or lemon zest; chopped nuts; berries or sliced bananas; unsweetened shredded coconut or chopped dried fruit. whole grain flour-no mean feat-but small amounts of add-ins as well. Some ideas to get you started: cup cornmeal, rolled oats, or oat or wheat bran in place of cup of either flour; up to 2 tablespoons of ground flaxseed; add up to cup any light, cooked grains like couscous, millet, or quinoa; freshly grated orange or lemon zest; chopped nuts; berries or sliced bananas; unsweetened shredded coconut or chopped dried fruit.

For an exotic bread replacement, omit the sugar, increase the salt a bit, replace the cinnamon with c.u.min, and serve the pancakes as flatbreads with soups, stews, or salads.

b.u.t.ter as needed12/3 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour2 tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon baking powder teaspoon ground coriander or cardamom (optional) teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) teaspoon salt2 large eggs, separated2 cups milk

1 Melt 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder, spices, and salt. Melt 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder, spices, and salt.

2 Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer or a whisk until stiff peaks form, but do not overbeat. In a separate bowl beat the yolks, milk, and melted b.u.t.ter until foamy, a couple of minutes. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and give a couple of good stirs, but do not overmix. Fold in the egg whites and stir until the batter is just evenly colored and relatively smooth; it's OK if there are some lumps. Beat the egg whites with an electric mixer or a whisk until stiff peaks form, but do not overbeat. In a separate bowl beat the yolks, milk, and melted b.u.t.ter until foamy, a couple of minutes. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and give a couple of good stirs, but do not overmix. Fold in the egg whites and stir until the batter is just evenly colored and relatively smooth; it's OK if there are some lumps.

3 Heat a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) or griddle over medium heat until a few drops of water dance on its surface. Add the b.u.t.ter as needed (or use a thin film of vegetable oil). When the skillet is hot, spoon the batter into pan. Cook until bubbles form and pop, about 2 minutes; you may have to rotate the cakes to cook them evenly, depending on your heat source and pan. Then carefully flip pancakes. Cook until well colored on other side, another minute or two more. Serve or keep in warm oven for a few minutes. Serve with maple syrup, fruit compote, jam, or caramelized apples. Heat a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) or griddle over medium heat until a few drops of water dance on its surface. Add the b.u.t.ter as needed (or use a thin film of vegetable oil). When the skillet is hot, spoon the batter into pan. Cook until bubbles form and pop, about 2 minutes; you may have to rotate the cakes to cook them evenly, depending on your heat source and pan. Then carefully flip pancakes. Cook until well colored on other side, another minute or two more. Serve or keep in warm oven for a few minutes. Serve with maple syrup, fruit compote, jam, or caramelized apples.

Breakfast Bread Pudding

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: About 1 hours, largely unattended Time: About 1 hours, largely unattended

Not your usual bread pudding; this has less custard and more bread, fruit, and nuts. For variety, use pears, peaches, cherries, or blueberries instead of the apples. Or go savory (see the variation).

b.u.t.ter or grape seed oil or other oil for greasing the pan2 eggs1 cup milk cup honey, or to taste1 teaspoon ground cinnamonPinch salt4 medium to large apples, cored, peeled (or not), and cut into chunks or slices cup raisins (optional) cup chopped walnuts or hazelnuts (optional)8 slices whole or multigrain bread (preferably stale), cut in 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups)

1 Heat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter a 1-quart or 8-inch-square baking dish. Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, honey, cinnamon, and salt. Stir in the apples, raisins, and nuts. Then fold in the bread cubes, using your hands or a rubber spatula to make sure everything is evenly coated. Let the mixture sit for about 15 minutes or until all of the liquid has been absorbed; give another good stir. (You can prepare the pudding ahead to this point; cover and refrigerate for up to 12 hours.) Heat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter a 1-quart or 8-inch-square baking dish. Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, honey, cinnamon, and salt. Stir in the apples, raisins, and nuts. Then fold in the bread cubes, using your hands or a rubber spatula to make sure everything is evenly coated. Let the mixture sit for about 15 minutes or until all of the liquid has been absorbed; give another good stir. (You can prepare the pudding ahead to this point; cover and refrigerate for up to 12 hours.)

2 Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish and smooth out the top. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden and only a little wobbly in the center. Let sit for a few minutes before cutting. Serve warm or cold. This keeps well for 2 days or more, covered and refrigerated. Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish and smooth out the top. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden and only a little wobbly in the center. Let sit for a few minutes before cutting. Serve warm or cold. This keeps well for 2 days or more, covered and refrigerated.

Savory Bread Pudding: Use olive oil to grease the pan if you like. Omit the honey, cinnamon, apples, raisins, and nuts. Instead use 4 or 5 cups lightly cooked vegetables, like artichoke hearts, asparagus, potatoes, eggplant, mushrooms, sauteed spinach, or roasted tomatoes. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the baking time to 30 to 40 minutes. Use olive oil to grease the pan if you like. Omit the honey, cinnamon, apples, raisins, and nuts. Instead use 4 or 5 cups lightly cooked vegetables, like artichoke hearts, asparagus, potatoes, eggplant, mushrooms, sauteed spinach, or roasted tomatoes. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the baking time to 30 to 40 minutes.

Other Dishes in the Book You Can Eat for Breakfast or BrunchBoiled or Steamed Vegetables, As You Like 'EmHybrid Quick BreadAlmost No-Work Whole Grain BreadWhole Grain Bread Salad with dried fruitImpromptu Fried RiceVegetable Spread, from just about any vegetableVegetable Pancakes

Breakfast Burritos

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 15 minutes with precooked (or canned) beans and rice Time: 15 minutes with precooked (or canned) beans and rice

With cooked beans in the fridge, breakfast burritos become a quick (and portable!) meal. You can always add some scrambled egg or cheese, but I use these wraps as my vehicle for whatever leftover vegetables or greens are handy. Sometimes I add rice or potatoes, but again this depends on what remains from last night's dinner. Finish with the usual suspects: salsa or chopped fresh tomatoes are a must, but cilantro, black olives, avocado, and fresh or pickled chiles all work, too.

To make life even easier, double or triple the batch (omitting the lettuce), wrap the burritos well in foil, and freeze. On a busy morning, remove the foil, wrap the burrito in a paper towel and zap it for a couple of minutes in the microwave. Or reheat foil-wrapped burritos in a 350F oven for about 20 minutes.

2 cups plain cooked beans, or Bean and Vegetable Chili, or canned pinto or black beans1 cup cooked brown rice or potatoes (optional)4 large whole wheat flour tortillas2 to 4 cups salad greens, torn-up lettuce, or cooked leftover vegetables (or a combination)2 cups fresh or cooked salsa, or chopped fresh tomatoes

1 Warm the beans or chile with the rice, if using, in a small pot or in the microwave. To warm the tortillas, wrap them in foil and put in a 300F oven for about 10 minutes, or stack them between two damp paper towels and microwave for 30 to 60 seconds. Warm the beans or chile with the rice, if using, in a small pot or in the microwave. To warm the tortillas, wrap them in foil and put in a 300F oven for about 10 minutes, or stack them between two damp paper towels and microwave for 30 to 60 seconds.

2 Put a tortilla on a plate or flat surface and put the bean mixture toward the bottom. Top with the greens, then the salsa and any other ingredients. Fold both sides over to enclose the filling, then roll up, and serve. Put a tortilla on a plate or flat surface and put the bean mixture toward the bottom. Top with the greens, then the salsa and any other ingredients. Fold both sides over to enclose the filling, then roll up, and serve.

Lunch Lunch is the meal most likely to be eaten out of the home, so it presents its own specific challenges. A salad bar, a row of cooked cold vegetables and grains, room temperature grilled vegetables, even rice and beans, all are preferable to the company cafeteria steam table or a sandwich or grill station.

The best bet is often to bring your own lunch. And this is a solution that may be easier than you think, as long as you're equipped with the right containers. The most convenient for all-around use are tight-sealing plastic (or better still, gla.s.s) so you can either dress your food at home, or carry dressings and sauces separately. If you have access to a microwave at work, you have even more options.

Here are recipes for dozens of different brown-bag lunches: soups, salads, sandwiches, and even noodle and stir-fry dishes. Personally, I bring lunch to work about half the time, and it's usually a soup (or something soup-like if not an actual "soup"), one that contains vegetables or legumes and grains, so it's pretty substantial.

They're based on the same quickly prepared foods you would eat if you were home. Any of them can be made in the morning and reheated if necessary; most can even be made the night before. If you prepare just one or two of these every week (doubling them if you're feeding a family this way), you have lunches all set, especially if you add to the bounty by bringing leftovers from dinner once in a while.

Chopped Cabbage Salad

Makes: 6 servings .

Time: 10 minutes, plus 1 to 2 hours for salting Time: 10 minutes, plus 1 to 2 hours for salting

You might call this a slaw, though the result is much more like a salad, especially if you take the time to salt the cabbage beforehand, which makes it tender yet still crunchy. The other advantage to not using lettuce is that, like coleslaw, this salad keeps for a couple of days and gets even better over time.

1 small head cabbage (about 1 pound), any kindSalt as needed2 celery stalks, chopped2 carrots, chopped1 small to medium red onion, minced1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped1/3 cup olive oil cup olive oil2 tablespoons sherry or white wine vinegar, or lemon juiceFreshly ground black pepperChopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish, optional

1 Core the cabbage and chop it roughly. If you're not salting, skip to Step 2. If you are, put the cabbage in a colander, sprinkle with about 2 teaspoons of salt, and toss. Check in 10 minutes or so to see if the leaves are exuding moisture. If not, add a little more salt and toss again. Let sit an hour or two, pressing the moisture out with your hands once or twice. Taste it; if it's too salty, rinse and pat dry. Core the cabbage and chop it roughly. If you're not salting, skip to Step 2. If you are, put the cabbage in a colander, sprinkle with about 2 teaspoons of salt, and toss. Check in 10 minutes or so to see if the leaves are exuding moisture. If not, add a little more salt and toss again. Let sit an hour or two, pressing the moisture out with your hands once or twice. Taste it; if it's too salty, rinse and pat dry.

2 Combine the vegetables in a bowl with the cabbage; sprinkle lightly with pepper (and salt if you didn't salt the cabbage), add the olive oil and vinegar, and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish if you like, and serve. Combine the vegetables in a bowl with the cabbage; sprinkle lightly with pepper (and salt if you didn't salt the cabbage), add the olive oil and vinegar, and toss. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish if you like, and serve.

Chopped Cabbage Salad, Asian Style: Instead of the olive oil, use 1 tablespoon sesame oil and 5 tablespoons peanut oil. Subst.i.tute lime juice or rice vinegar for the sherry vinegar or lemon juice. Add some minced fresh hot chile and chopped scallions if you like, and use chopped cilantro leaves to garnish instead of the parsley. Instead of the olive oil, use 1 tablespoon sesame oil and 5 tablespoons peanut oil. Subst.i.tute lime juice or rice vinegar for the sherry vinegar or lemon juice. Add some minced fresh hot chile and chopped scallions if you like, and use chopped cilantro leaves to garnish instead of the parsley.

Nice Additions to Chopped Cabbage Salad1 peeled, cubed avocadoAny green beans, about 1 cup, cooked briefly and shockedFennel, bulb or so, trimmed and chopped (in place of the celery)Radishes, cup choppedFresh peas, snow peas, or snap peas, about 1 cup, very lightly cooked and shockedNew potatoes, steamed and cut into small chunks-about 1 cupChickpeas, cup (or more) cooked or canned, drainedCrumbled blue or feta cheese (add to the main recipe only, not not to the variation) to the variation)Shredded crab, or chopped shrimp or chicken

Layered Salad

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

For 20 years we've served alternating slices of tomatoes and mozzarella as if they were the only ingredients available for layering in a salad. It's a fine combination, to be sure, but come on-we can branch out a bit.

This version provides a formula for all sorts of combinations to try all year long, even when tomatoes aren't in season; just pick one of the options from each line in the ingredient list and build away.

3 large ripe tomatoes, cored; or 3 oranges (blood oranges are nice), peeledSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 cuc.u.mber, peeled, seeded, and sliced; or 8 thick slices of watermelon (no bigger than the tomatoes), rinds and seeds removed1 small red onion, halved and sliced paper-thin; or 2 scallions, sliced thinly1 medium avocado, pitted, peeled, and sliced; or 8 thin slices fresh mozzarella or feta cheese pound jicama, daikon, or other radishes, Asian pear, or Granny Smith apple, peeled if necessary, grated or finely chopped (about cup)2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon or rice or sherry vinegar cup chopped fresh basil or cilantro for garnish

1 Cut each tomato or orange crosswise into 4 thick slices. Put a layer of them on plates or a platter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with the cuc.u.mber or watermelon, then the onion or scallions; season again if you like. Put the avocado or cheese slices over all, fanning them out to get good coverage. Top with the radishes or apple and sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper one last time. Cut each tomato or orange crosswise into 4 thick slices. Put a layer of them on plates or a platter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with the cuc.u.mber or watermelon, then the onion or scallions; season again if you like. Put the avocado or cheese slices over all, fanning them out to get good coverage. Top with the radishes or apple and sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper one last time.