Food Matters Part 18

8 ounces whole grain bread (4 thick slices; stale is fine)Salt8 ounces escarole or lacinato kale (also called black kale or cavalo nero cavalo nero), or other kale, or collards cup olive oil2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar1 pounds cherry tomatoes, halved red onion, thinly slicedFreshly ground black pepper cup fresh chopped basil leaves

1 Heat the oven to 400F. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast, turning once or twice, until golden and dry, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the slices. Remove from the oven and cool. Heat the oven to 400F. Put the bread on a baking sheet and toast, turning once or twice, until golden and dry, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the slices. Remove from the oven and cool.

2 While bread toasts, put a large pot of water to boil and salt it. Fill a large bowl with ice water. When the pot comes to a boil, add the greens; let wilt for about a minute, then drain and plunge into ice water. When cool, squeeze dry and roughly chop. Put the greens, oil, vinegar, tomatoes, and onion in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and toss to coat. While bread toasts, put a large pot of water to boil and salt it. Fill a large bowl with ice water. When the pot comes to a boil, add the greens; let wilt for about a minute, then drain and plunge into ice water. When cool, squeeze dry and roughly chop. Put the greens, oil, vinegar, tomatoes, and onion in a large salad bowl. Sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and toss to coat.

3 Fill a bowl with tap water and soak the bread for about 3 minutes. Gently squeeze a slice dry and crumble it into salad bowl. Repeat with remaining slices. Toss well to combine the salad and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Right before serving, taste and adjust seasoning and toss with the basil. Fill a bowl with tap water and soak the bread for about 3 minutes. Gently squeeze a slice dry and crumble it into salad bowl. Repeat with remaining slices. Toss well to combine the salad and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Right before serving, taste and adjust seasoning and toss with the basil.

Whole Grain Bread Salad with Dried Fruit: Use any kind of kale or collards instead of the escarole. Omit the tomatoes and basil and subst.i.tute shallot for the onion if you like. In Step 2, toss the kale and dressing with 1 cup chopped dried fruit (figs, dates, apricots, cherries, cranberries, or raisins are all good) and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts if you like. Use any kind of kale or collards instead of the escarole. Omit the tomatoes and basil and subst.i.tute shallot for the onion if you like. In Step 2, toss the kale and dressing with 1 cup chopped dried fruit (figs, dates, apricots, cherries, cranberries, or raisins are all good) and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage leaves. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts if you like.

Spinach and Sweet Potato Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 45 minutes Time: About 45 minutes

A little bacon goes a long way here, and adding roasted sweet potatoes (or any roasted root vegetable, including waxy potatoes) turns an ordinary spinach salad into a perfect one-dish lunch or supper.

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces cup olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper2 thick slices of bacon1 red bell pepper, cored and chopped1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced1 tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger1 teaspoon ground c.u.minJuice from 1 orange1 pound fresh spinach leaves

1 Heat the oven to 400F. Put the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Roast, turning occasionally, until crisp and brown outside and just tender inside, about 30 minutes. Remove and keep them on the pan until ready to use. Heat the oven to 400F. Put the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Roast, turning occasionally, until crisp and brown outside and just tender inside, about 30 minutes. Remove and keep them on the pan until ready to use.

2 While the potatoes cook, put the bacon in a nonreactive skillet and turn the heat to medium. Cook, turning once or twice, until crisp. Drain on paper towels and pour off the fat, leaving any darkened bits behind in the pan. Put back on medium heat, and add the remaining oil to the pan. When it's hot, add the bell pepper, onion, and ginger to the pan. Cook, stirring once or twice, until no longer raw, then stir in the c.u.min and the reserved bacon. Stir in the orange juice and turn off the heat. (The recipe can be made up to an hour or so ahead to this point. Gently warm the dressing again before proceeding.) While the potatoes cook, put the bacon in a nonreactive skillet and turn the heat to medium. Cook, turning once or twice, until crisp. Drain on paper towels and pour off the fat, leaving any darkened bits behind in the pan. Put back on medium heat, and add the remaining oil to the pan. When it's hot, add the bell pepper, onion, and ginger to the pan. Cook, stirring once or twice, until no longer raw, then stir in the c.u.min and the reserved bacon. Stir in the orange juice and turn off the heat. (The recipe can be made up to an hour or so ahead to this point. Gently warm the dressing again before proceeding.)

3 Put the spinach in a bowl large enough to comfortably toss the salad quickly. Add the sweet potatoes and the warm dressing and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning, and serve. Put the spinach in a bowl large enough to comfortably toss the salad quickly. Add the sweet potatoes and the warm dressing and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning, and serve.

Hummus with Pita and Greens

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 25 minutes with cooked chickpeas Time: About 25 minutes with cooked chickpeas

This is more salad than sandwich. I make this open-faced, with the crunchy pita and spread nestled under a pile of greens. But you can easily deconstruct the dish and serve the pita (toasted or not) alongside for scooping up the hummus. Or if you have pocket pitas, smear the insides with the hummus and fill with the stuffed greens for a more portable lunch. (To make just hummus, follow Step 2.)

4 whole wheat pitas2 cups drained cooked or canned chickpeas, some liquid reserved if possible cup tahini (with some of its oil), or more to taste2 cloves garlic, peeled, or to taste1/3 cup olive oil cup olive oil1 tablespoon ground c.u.min or smoked paprika (pimenton), more or less, plus a sprinkling for garnishSalt and freshly ground black pepperJuice of 1 lemon, plus more as needed6 cups lettuce or a.s.sorted salad greens, torn into piecesCuc.u.mber slices, tomato wedges, thinly sliced red onion, and/or black olives, for garnish cup chopped fresh mint or parsley leaves, for garnish

1 To toast the pitas if you like, heat the oven to 450F. Put them on a baking sheet and cook until just barely crunchy on both sides, about 15 minutes total. To toast the pitas if you like, heat the oven to 450F. Put them on a baking sheet and cook until just barely crunchy on both sides, about 15 minutes total.

2 Meanwhile make the hummus: Combine the chickpeas, tahini, garlic, and cup of the oil in a food processor with the spice and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Use the reserved bean liquid (or water) as necessary to get machine going. Puree, then add about half of the lemon juice, along with more tahini or salt if desired. Meanwhile make the hummus: Combine the chickpeas, tahini, garlic, and cup of the oil in a food processor with the spice and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Use the reserved bean liquid (or water) as necessary to get machine going. Puree, then add about half of the lemon juice, along with more tahini or salt if desired.

3 When the pita has cooled smear a layer of hummus on each and put on plates. (You'll probably have some left over; the hummus will keep, refrigerated, for about a week. Eat it with raw vegetables or on bread.) Put the lettuce in a bowl, sprinkle with some salt, pepper, and a pinch of the spice you used and drizzle with the remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Toss well then pile on top of the pitas. Garnish and serve. When the pita has cooled smear a layer of hummus on each and put on plates. (You'll probably have some left over; the hummus will keep, refrigerated, for about a week. Eat it with raw vegetables or on bread.) Put the lettuce in a bowl, sprinkle with some salt, pepper, and a pinch of the spice you used and drizzle with the remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Toss well then pile on top of the pitas. Garnish and serve.

Hummus with Dried Tomatoes: Omit the tahini. Cover cup (or more) dried tomatoes with boiling water and soak until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain (reserve the liquid for another use) and follow the recipe, subst.i.tuting the tomatoes for the tahini. Omit the tahini. Cover cup (or more) dried tomatoes with boiling water and soak until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain (reserve the liquid for another use) and follow the recipe, subst.i.tuting the tomatoes for the tahini.

Vegetarian Sandwich IdeasOnce you buy into the idea that a sandwich doesn't have to include meat, you can enjoy all sorts of good stuff, whether slipped between two pieces of bread, served open-faced, wrapped in a tortilla, or stuffed in a pita pocket. Any of these ideas for veggie sandwiches will work with the breads in this book: Almost No-Work Whole Grain Bread, Hybrid Quick Bread, or Easy Whole Grain Flatbread. Or try warmed whole wheat or corn tortillas, pitas with or without the pocket, whole grain lavash, or store-bought whole grain loaves.

Greek Salad Sandwich: Romaine lettuce, tomatoes, olives, cuc.u.mbers, and feta cheese in a pita pocket, drizzled with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Romaine lettuce, tomatoes, olives, cuc.u.mbers, and feta cheese in a pita pocket, drizzled with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon.

Mediterranean Wrap: A whole wheat tortilla filled with either Not Your Usual Ratatouille or Salade Nicoise with Mustard Vinaigrette; or a simple mixture of white beans, arugula, olive oil, and chopped black olives. A whole wheat tortilla filled with either Not Your Usual Ratatouille or Salade Nicoise with Mustard Vinaigrette; or a simple mixture of white beans, arugula, olive oil, and chopped black olives.

Tex-Mex Sandwich: Whole wheat sandwich bread smeared with lightly mashed black beans, and topped with chopped avocado, tomatoes, chiles, red onions, and pickles. Whole wheat sandwich bread smeared with lightly mashed black beans, and topped with chopped avocado, tomatoes, chiles, red onions, and pickles.

Caprese Sandwich: Whole grain flatbread or lavash filled with thinly sliced mozzarella, thick slices of tomato, basil leaves, and Olive Oil Drizzle. Whole grain flatbread or lavash filled with thinly sliced mozzarella, thick slices of tomato, basil leaves, and Olive Oil Drizzle.

Garden Sandwich: Multigrain sandwich bread spread with a smear of hummus or tahini mixed with a little water, and filled with tomatoes, sprouts, radishes, cuc.u.mber, and minced chives. Multigrain sandwich bread spread with a smear of hummus or tahini mixed with a little water, and filled with tomatoes, sprouts, radishes, cuc.u.mber, and minced chives.

Leftover Sandwich: Any roasted or grilled vegetables, chopped up and served in pita pockets or rolled into a lavash or tortilla wrap. Garnish as you like with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, onions, or other condiments. Any roasted or grilled vegetables, chopped up and served in pita pockets or rolled into a lavash or tortilla wrap. Garnish as you like with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, onions, or other condiments.

ALT: Avocado, tomato, and lettuce on toasted whole wheat bread; smear of mayo optional. Avocado, tomato, and lettuce on toasted whole wheat bread; smear of mayo optional.

Mushroom Sandwich: Grilled or broiled portobello mushroom with roasted garlic on whole wheat bread or bun. Grilled or broiled portobello mushroom with roasted garlic on whole wheat bread or bun.

Nut-Wich: Lightly mash something delicious, smear it on toasted bread, then sprinkle chopped nuts on it. Some excellent combos: banana, honey, and almonds; avocado and peanuts; sweet potatoes and hazelnuts; apricots and almonds; peaches and pistachios; roasted beets and walnuts. Lightly mash something delicious, smear it on toasted bread, then sprinkle chopped nuts on it. Some excellent combos: banana, honey, and almonds; avocado and peanuts; sweet potatoes and hazelnuts; apricots and almonds; peaches and pistachios; roasted beets and walnuts.

Bread Spread: Any vegetable or bean spread, with lettuce, tomatoes, and thinly sliced onions. Any vegetable or bean spread, with lettuce, tomatoes, and thinly sliced onions.

Stir-Fried Beans with Asparagus or Broccoli

Makes: 4 Servings .

Time: 15 minutes Time: 15 minutes

A different kind of stir-fry: no soy sauce. I like asparagus or broccoli, but in the winter, halved Brussels sprouts are excellent, especially with big white lima beans or chickpeas. Serve with some brown rice or toss with noodles.

1 pound asparagus or broccoli, trimmed2 tablespoons olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper3 scallions, chopped1 tablespoon minced garlic1 teaspoon ground c.u.min cup chopped dried tomatoes cup vegetable stock, white wine, or water, plus more as needed1 cup edamame, fava, or lima beans, fresh or thawed frozen

1 Cut the asparagus into 2-inch pieces or break the broccoli into florets. Put the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the asparagus or broccoli, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until coated in oil and just beginning to soften, about a minute. Add the scallions and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, just another minute. Add the c.u.min and tomatoes and give a good stir, then add the remaining ingredients. Cut the asparagus into 2-inch pieces or break the broccoli into florets. Put the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the asparagus or broccoli, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until coated in oil and just beginning to soften, about a minute. Add the scallions and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, just another minute. Add the c.u.min and tomatoes and give a good stir, then add the remaining ingredients.

2 Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes plump up, the liquid is reduced a bit, and the vegetables and beans are crisp-tender, about 5 more minutes. If you prefer more liquid for tossing with pasta or rice, add a little more, but be careful not to overcook anything. Remove from heat, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes plump up, the liquid is reduced a bit, and the vegetables and beans are crisp-tender, about 5 more minutes. If you prefer more liquid for tossing with pasta or rice, add a little more, but be careful not to overcook anything. Remove from heat, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Fast Mixed Vegetable Soup

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: About 30 minutes Time: About 30 minutes

Making a flavorful soup is as simple and easy as simmering vegetables in stock or water; if you cook them in olive oil to begin, so much the better. To build on the main recipe, see the list that follows.

3 tablespoons olive oil, or more1 medium onion, chopped1 carrot, chopped1 celery stalk, chopped2 garlic cloves, smashed and choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper6 cups vegetable stock or water2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (canned tomatoes are fine; use 3 and include the juice), or cup tomato paste4 to 6 cups quick-cooking vegetables, like green beans, cauliflower, broccoli, asparagus, corn, cooked or canned beans, radishes, zucchini or summer squash, or dark, leafy greens like kale or collards, roughly chopped cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

1 Put 2 tablespoons of the oil into a large, deep pot over medium heat. When it's hot, add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil into a large, deep pot over medium heat. When it's hot, add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes.