Food Matters Part 23

1 recipe brown riceAbout cup peanut or vegetable oil2 tablespoons minced garlic1 tablespoon grated or minced fresh ginger4 cups a.s.sorted vegetables, trimmed, peeled, and seeded as needed and cut into bite-size pieces1 bunch scallions, sliced on the diagonal pound sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu2 tablespoons soy sauceJuice of lime (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper cup any vegetable, shrimp, or fish stock, white wine, sake, or waterChopped cilantro, mint, or Thai basil (optional)

1 Start the rice. After preparing the vegetables, separate them according to what will cook fastest and what will take longer. If using only one vegetable, divide it into two batches. Start the rice. After preparing the vegetables, separate them according to what will cook fastest and what will take longer. If using only one vegetable, divide it into two batches.

2 Put a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add a tablespoon of the oil, swirl, and then add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add one of the vegetables. Cook and stir until almost, but not quite done as you want it, from a minute or two for spinach to as much as 5 minutes for root vegetables. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl or platter and repeat with the remaining vegetables, adding more oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Just before you take the last batch of vegetables out, add the scallions and give a good stir. Put a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add a tablespoon of the oil, swirl, and then add half the garlic and ginger. Cook for 15 seconds, stirring, then add one of the vegetables. Cook and stir until almost, but not quite done as you want it, from a minute or two for spinach to as much as 5 minutes for root vegetables. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl or platter and repeat with the remaining vegetables, adding more oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Just before you take the last batch of vegetables out, add the scallions and give a good stir.

3 Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, then the remaining garlic and ginger. Stir; then add the sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu. Raise the heat to high, stir once, then let it sit for 1 minute before stirring again. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the protein has lost its pink color, about 3 minutes for shrimp and scallops and about 5 minutes for chicken and other meats. Turn the heat down to medium and add another tablespoon of oil to the pan, then the remaining garlic and ginger. Stir; then add the sh.e.l.lfish, meat, or tofu. Raise the heat to high, stir once, then let it sit for 1 minute before stirring again. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the protein has lost its pink color, about 3 minutes for shrimp and scallops and about 5 minutes for chicken and other meats.

Some Simple Additions to Any Stir-FryAdd either chopped fresh chile or red chile flakes to taste, along with the garlic.Add 2 tablespoons whole or chopped peanuts or cashews when you return the vegetables to the pan.Add 1 teaspoon ground spices, especially Sichuan peppercorns, with the garlic.Use nam pla (Thai fish sauce) in place of soy sauce.Add about 1 tablespoon ground bean paste (you can buy it at Chinese markets) during the last minute of cooking.Finish the dish with a tablespoon of toasted sesame seeds, simply sprinkled on top.

4 Return the vegetables to the pan and toss once or twice. Add the soy sauce and lime juice if you're using it; toss again. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the liquid. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan, until the liquid is reduced slightly and you've sc.r.a.ped up all the bits on the bottom of the pan. Garnish with basil, cilantro, or mint and serve. Return the vegetables to the pan and toss once or twice. Add the soy sauce and lime juice if you're using it; toss again. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then add the liquid. Raise the heat to high and cook, stirring and sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan, until the liquid is reduced slightly and you've sc.r.a.ped up all the bits on the bottom of the pan. Garnish with basil, cilantro, or mint and serve.

Roasted Vegetables with or without Fish or Meat

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 1 hour Time: About 1 hour

A spectacular way to take advantage of vegetables in season, since the technique remains the same whether you use root vegetables or anything else. Vary it depending on what you've got, but remember that cooking times will be shorter for more tender vegetables and longer for st.u.r.dier ones. This recipe makes a wonderful bed for any fish, chicken, or meat, which can be cooked right on top of the vegetables.

pound waxy potatoes pound carrots pound celery root, turnips, or rutabaga pound parsnips or beets1 medium onion, chopped3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as neededSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon minced garlic1 tablespoon fresh minced rosemary or sage (optional) to 1 pound fish fillets, chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s or tenders, boneless pork chops, or lamb ribs, divided in 4 portions (optional)Juice of 1 lemon (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Trim and peel the vegetables as necessary and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Mix them together in a large roasting pan or baking dish, along with the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat the oven to 450F. Trim and peel the vegetables as necessary and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Mix them together in a large roasting pan or baking dish, along with the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2 Roast the vegetables for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they're just beginning to get tender. Add the garlic and herb if you're using it; toss to combine. Roast the vegetables for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until they're just beginning to get tender. Add the garlic and herb if you're using it; toss to combine.

3 If you're adding fish, chicken, or meat, lay it directly on top of the vegetables, brus.h.i.+ng with some of the oil from the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and return to the oven for another 8 to 15 minutes, depending on what you're cooking, basting once or twice with the pan juices. Taste and adjust the seasoning; add the lemon juice if you like, and serve. If you're adding fish, chicken, or meat, lay it directly on top of the vegetables, brus.h.i.+ng with some of the oil from the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and return to the oven for another 8 to 15 minutes, depending on what you're cooking, basting once or twice with the pan juices. Taste and adjust the seasoning; add the lemon juice if you like, and serve.

Braised Vegetables with Prosciutto, Bacon, or Ham

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

Like meat braises and stews, the goal here is to produce the tenderness and complex flavors that come from fully softened ingredients and a luxuriously thick cooking liquid. The same technique works for any vegetable or even any combination of vegetables (I've given some specific examples in the main recipe), since the timing of doneness isn't crucial. Likewise, check out the different seasoning options in the list that follows, or experiment on your own. Serve this with whole grains or toss with some pasta.

3 tablespoons olive oil1 large onion or several shallots, halved and sliced pound chopped prosciutto, cured or smoked ham, pancetta, or bacon (optional)1 or 2 whole small dried chiles (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper2 or 3 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 sprig of rosemary or oregano2 pounds any vegetable (alone or in combination), like Brussels sprouts, eggplant, carrots or parsnips, turnips or rutabaga, beets, kale or collards, string beans, or celery2 cups vegetable stock, white or red wine, beer, or water cup fresh chopped parsley leaves, for garnish

1 Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and the meat and chiles if you're using them; sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions begin to color, about 5 minutes. Add the herb sprigs, turn the heat down a bit, and keep cooking, stirring once in a while, until the color deepens, another 5 minutes or so. Remove everything with a slotted spoon. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and the meat and chiles if you're using them; sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions begin to color, about 5 minutes. Add the herb sprigs, turn the heat down a bit, and keep cooking, stirring once in a while, until the color deepens, another 5 minutes or so. Remove everything with a slotted spoon.

2 Meanwhile, trim and peel the vegetables as needed and cut them into large (at least 2-inch) chunks, or leave them whole if they're any smaller than that. Meanwhile, trim and peel the vegetables as needed and cut them into large (at least 2-inch) chunks, or leave them whole if they're any smaller than that.

3 Return the pot to medium-high heat, add the remaining oil, and when it's hot, add the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to caramelize and brown a bit. Return the onion mixture to the pot, add the liquid, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so that the mixture gently bubbles, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are as tender or as soft as you want them, anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes; just poke them with a fork every once in a while to check. When they're ready, taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish, and serve. Return the pot to medium-high heat, add the remaining oil, and when it's hot, add the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to caramelize and brown a bit. Return the onion mixture to the pot, add the liquid, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so that the mixture gently bubbles, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are as tender or as soft as you want them, anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes; just poke them with a fork every once in a while to check. When they're ready, taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish, and serve.

Braised Vegetables, Many WaysInstead of the onion, use lots of garlic or a couple bunches of scallions, cut into big pieces.Use peanut oil instead of the olive oil, and use tofu cubes instead of the proscuitto; try coconut milk for the liquid, and season with a splash of soy or Thai fish sauce. Garnish with chopped peanuts and cilantro.Add a handful of chopped radishes (daikon is excellent here) during the last minute or 2 of cooking.Instead of the meat, use chopped or sliced almonds or hazelnuts; they'll get soft and add body. For a crunchy finish, garnish with a sprinkle of whatever nut you used.Instead of the meat, use cut-up boneless, skinless chicken thighs.Add some citrus zest to the pot, along with the herb sprigs.Use peanut or grape seed oil instead of the olive oil, and subst.i.tute a tablespoon or so of c.u.min, caraway, or mustard seeds, or a couple of caraway pods or bay leaves for the herb sprigs.

Grilled or Broiled Kebabs

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

Kebabs are a fun way to grill different things simultaneously, while playing with marinades and spice rubs. (Start with Six Seasoning Blends You Can't Live Without, on Chapter 10, and add some olive oil. Or simply add the spices to the salt and pepper to make a rub.) This is also the place for serving a killer salsa, which will take just a few extra minutes to throw together.

Just about any vegetable that can be cut into pieces can be skewered; for meat or fish, look for beef tenderloin or sirloin; lamb or pork shoulder; chicken thighs; st.u.r.dy chunks of tuna, swordfish, halibut, or monkfish; shrimp or scallops.

About 2 pounds any vegetable or combination: eggplant, squash, peppers, onions, zucchini, cherry or plum tomatoes, mushrooms, cut into large pieces, about 1 inch thick1 pound meat, chicken, fish, or sh.e.l.lfish, cut into 1-inch chunks, or whole shrimp4 to 6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oilSalt and freshly ground black pepperChopped fresh parsley or cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)

1 If you're using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 10 minutes. Heat a charcoal or gas grill or a broiler and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. If you're using charcoal or briquettes, be generous-you want a broad fire (though not the hottest fire possible). If you're using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 10 minutes. Heat a charcoal or gas grill or a broiler and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. If you're using charcoal or briquettes, be generous-you want a broad fire (though not the hottest fire possible).

2 Meanwhile, thread the vegetables and meat alternately on skewers, leaving a little s.p.a.ce between pieces. Brush with the olive or grapeseed oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let the kebabs sit while the fire is getting ready. Meanwhile, thread the vegetables and meat alternately on skewers, leaving a little s.p.a.ce between pieces. Brush with the olive or grapeseed oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let the kebabs sit while the fire is getting ready.

3 When the fire is hot, but still not scorching, start cooking the kebabs. Brush them with a little more oil and turn them once or twice as they cook, until they begin to brown and become tender, after 10 or 15 minutes. Put the skewers on a platter, garnish, and serve. When the fire is hot, but still not scorching, start cooking the kebabs. Brush them with a little more oil and turn them once or twice as they cook, until they begin to brown and become tender, after 10 or 15 minutes. Put the skewers on a platter, garnish, and serve.

Pan-Cooked Grated Vegetables and Crunchy Fish

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Even the hardest vegetables-winter squash, root vegetables, and potatoes-cook relatively quickly and retain a lovely crunch if you grate them first. Pair them with lightly breaded, pan-crisped fish, and you have a colorful, fresh-tasting, and fast one-dish meal.

If you want to use zucchini or other summer squash, that's fine, too; just grate it as directed and squeeze it dry in a clean towel before cooking. And you can also make this dish with whole peas or snap peas, sliced asparagus, or ribbons of cabbage or greens.

4 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil, plus more as needed1 small red onion or 4 scallions, choppedAbout 2 pounds winter squash, sweet potatoes, daikon, turnips, or celery root, trimmed, peeled, and grated1 tablespoon minced ginger or garlic1 tablespoon Fragrant or Hot Curry PowderSalt and freshly ground black pepperAbout cup each of cornmeal and flour, for dredgingAbout 12 ounces ( pound) cod or catfish fillet, cut into 4 pieces cup fresh parsley, or cilantro leavesLemon, lime, or orange wedges (optional)

1 Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add half the onion or scallions and the vegetables. Add the ginger or garlic and the curry powder, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, and adding a little more oil if the mixture is sticking, until the onion has caramelized and the potatoes are lightly browned, about 10 minutes; the vegetables need not be fully tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and transfer to a large serving platter or divide among individual plates. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add half the onion or scallions and the vegetables. Add the ginger or garlic and the curry powder, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, and adding a little more oil if the mixture is sticking, until the onion has caramelized and the potatoes are lightly browned, about 10 minutes; the vegetables need not be fully tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and transfer to a large serving platter or divide among individual plates.

2 While the vegetables are cooking, combine the cornmeal and flour on a plate along with some salt and pepper. Dredge the fish in the cornmeal mixture, pressing to make some of it stick then shaking to remove the excess. While the vegetables are cooking, combine the cornmeal and flour on a plate along with some salt and pepper. Dredge the fish in the cornmeal mixture, pressing to make some of it stick then shaking to remove the excess.

3 Return the skillet to high heat; don't bother to wipe it out. Add the remaining oil. When it's hot, add the fish to the pan and cook, turning only once, until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through-a thin-bladed knife will meet little or no resistance when fish is done. Put the fish on top of the vegetables; garnish with the remaining onion or scallion and parsley or cilantro. Serve with citrus wedges if you like. Return the skillet to high heat; don't bother to wipe it out. Add the remaining oil. When it's hot, add the fish to the pan and cook, turning only once, until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through-a thin-bladed knife will meet little or no resistance when fish is done. Put the fish on top of the vegetables; garnish with the remaining onion or scallion and parsley or cilantro. Serve with citrus wedges if you like.