Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia Volume II Part 25

The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile.

TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing in fine weather.

The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE COSSIGNY.

The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous reefs.

At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low, but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck, and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in the distance.

All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first volume.

We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be a bay, on which the French found a stream of water.

Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry rocks; we pa.s.sed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.

To the westward of Cape Lambert, in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its sh.o.r.es are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is, however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive, the pa.s.sage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we know, free from danger.

DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 minute 25 seconds; the pa.s.sage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep.

The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we pa.s.sed several straggling rocks.

LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks; its North-West point is in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its sh.o.r.es, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the cable, being a chain was not damaged.

The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a s.p.a.ce of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the westernmost.

GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and south direction; they are high and rocky. The west sh.o.r.e of Gidley Island appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impa.s.sable for anything larger than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep pa.s.sage through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward, are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the eastern sh.o.r.e of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording safe and secure anchorage at all seasons.

The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt, Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a strait a mile wide; it is probably deep.

The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite sides of the island, forming a bay on either side.

To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the circ.u.mstance of our communicating with the natives, was called INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable summit upon it, in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and eight fathoms deep.

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by North and East by South. The centre hummock is in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands, particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago, particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will shelter a s.h.i.+p from whatever point the wind may blow.

There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quant.i.ty not far off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the south side of Enderby Island.

The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of the bay again a.s.sumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West direction from the interior, and reaches the sh.o.r.es of the bay, when it extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5 minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the sh.o.r.es of the bay, there appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished.

There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the South-South-West, in which direction the sh.o.r.e trends in and forms a bay, the sh.o.r.es of which were not seen.

From Cape Preston the coast a.s.sumes a very different character from that to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in diameter. It is visible for about five leagues.

Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.

Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a s.p.a.ce of eighty-five miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or sand.

CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it.

The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.

The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance.

BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circ.u.mference, is of moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French charts have a.s.signed a position to a reef: and four miles North 10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but little doubt.

LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart.

From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on pa.s.sing this part in 1822.*

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The lat.i.tude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from carelessness and indifference.

A reef of rocks is said to exist in lat.i.tude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette.

EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cl.u.s.ter of islands that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones have been a.s.signed correct positions to, as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western sh.o.r.e there is a s.p.a.ce of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy bottom. Under the western sh.o.r.e, which is the deepest, there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky.

In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the sh.o.r.e is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.

(*Footnote. Vide below.)

The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that it was in vain that we attempted to examine its sh.o.r.es, which was also rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from the South-West.

The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile.

The extremity of the North-West Cape is in lat.i.tude 21 degrees 47 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming Head in lat.i.tude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.

APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.

OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN.

NORTH-WEST COAST.

We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost constant from South-South-West.

Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a s.p.a.ce of about fifty-two miles, the sh.o.r.e is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it.

The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the latter point, the sh.o.r.e trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At lat.i.tude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking heavily.

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

CAPE FARQUHAR, in lat.i.tude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing winds.

Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the land has a level outline, and the sh.o.r.e is formed by a sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in lat.i.tude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay.

The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage.

The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impa.s.sable.

DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in lat.i.tude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west.