Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 58

CHAP. I. Sh.e.l.lFISH.

CHAP. II. RAY.

CHAP. III. CALAMARY.

CHAP. IV. CUTTLEFISH.

CHAP. V. POLYPUS.

CHAP. VI. OYSTERS.

CHAP. VII. ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES.

CHAP. VIII. SEA URCHIN.

CHAP. IX. MUSSELS.

CHAP. X. SARDINES.

CHAP. XI. FISH SAUCES.

CHAP. XII. BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW.

I

Sh.e.l.lFISH _IN LOCUSTA_

[397] SAUCE FOR Sh.e.l.lFISH _IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI_ [1]

CHOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, c.u.mIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE BOILING ADD MUSTARD.

[1] _locusta_, spiny lobster; Fr. _langouste_; G.-V.

_capparus_; not clear, (_cammarus_, a crab); List.

_carabus_--long-tailed lobster or crab, the _cancer cursor_ of Linnaeus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by Plinius.

[398] BROILED LOBSTER _LOCUSTAS a.s.sAS_

MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN THEIR Sh.e.l.l; [which is opened by splitting the live lobster in two] SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL.

WHEN THEY ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE [with oil or b.u.t.ter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2].

[1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed.

[2] Same procedure as today.

[399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH c.u.mIN SAUCE [1]

_LOCUSTAM ELIXAM c.u.m c.u.mINATO_

REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH c.u.mIN SAUCE [essence] AND, BY RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE WHOLE c.u.mIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3].

[1] c.u.min, mustard and other spices similar to the above are used for cooking crawfish today.

[2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts.

[3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree; according to Plinius the _laurus ca.s.sia_--wild cinnamon.

[400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH--MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT _ALITER LOCUSTAM--ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES_

HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] BOIL [the lobster] TAKE THE Cl.u.s.tER OF Sp.a.w.n [from under the female's tail, and the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and fry].

It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the mince.

[401] BOILED LOBSTER _IN LOCUSTA ELIXA_

PEPPER, c.u.mIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.

[402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION _ALITER IN LOCUSTA_

FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, c.u.mIN, MINT, RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND WINE.

[1] Tor. _recte adhibemus_, sentence not in the other texts.

II

RAY, SKATE _IN TORPEDINE_ [1]

[403] [A Sauce for] RAY _IN TORPEDINE_

CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] _torpedo_; the _raia torpedo_ of Linnaeus; a ray or skate.

[404] BOILED RAY _IN TORPEDINE ELIXA_

PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR, IF DESIRED RICHER, ADD RAISINS.

This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled ray.

Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and with similar ingredients. When done, the fish is allowed to cool in this water; the edible parts are then removed, the water drained from the meat, which is tossed in sizzling brown b.u.t.ter with lemon juice, vinegar and capers. This is _raie au beurre noir_, much esteemed on the French seaboards.

III

CALAMARY _IN LOLIGINE_ [1]