Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 7

PROMII FINIS

{Ill.u.s.tration: TRIPOD FOR THE GREAT CRATER

Hildesheim Treasure}

THE RECIPES OF APICIUS AND THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS

ORIGINAL TRANSLATION FROM THE TEXTS OF TORINUS, HUMELBERGIUS, LISTER AND GIARRATANO-VOLLMER WITH NOTES AND COMMENTS

{Ill.u.s.tration: "DINNER GONG"

Heavy bronze disk and substantial "knocker" to signal slaves. Found in Pompeii. "Hurry, fellows, the cakes are piping hot!"--Plautus. Ntl.

Mus., Naples, 78622; Field M., 24133.}

{Ill.u.s.tration: OVAL SERVICE DISH

With two decorated handles. Hildesheim Treas.}

THE TEN BOOKS OF APICIUS

I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK. II. MINCES. III. THE GARDENER. IV.

MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. V. LEGUMES. VI. POULTRY. VII. FANCY DISHES.

VIII. QUADRUPEDS. IX. SEA FOOD. X. FISH SAUCES. THE EXCERPTS OF VINIDARIUS.

[V. The Greek t.i.tles of the ten books point to a common Greek origin, indicating that Apicius is a collection of Greek monographs on various branches of cookery, specialization such as highly developed civilizations would produce. Both the literary style and the contents of the books point to different authors, as may be seen from the very repet.i.tions of and similarities in subjects as in VI and VIII, and in IX and X. The absence of books on bread and cake baking, dessert cookery indicates that the present Apicius is not complete.]

BOOK I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK

_Lib. I. Epimeles_

CHAP. I. FINE SPICED WINE. HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS.

CHAP. II. ROMAN VERMOUTH.

CHAP. III. ROSE WINE. VIOLET WINE. ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES.

CHAP. IV. LIBURNIAN OIL.

CHAP. V. TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE.

CHAP. VI. TO IMPROVE A BROTH WITH A BAD ODOR.

CHAP. VII. TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT. TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK.

CHAP. VIII. TO MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET.

CHAP. IX. TO KEEP FRIED FISH. TO KEEP OYSTERS.

CHAP. X. TO MAKE LASER GO A LONG WAY.

CHAP. XI. TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST. TO MAKE SPOILED HONEY GOOD.

TO TEST SPOILED HONEY.

CHAP. XII. TO KEEP GRAPES. TO KEEP POMEGRANATES. TO KEEP QUINCES.

TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS. TO KEEP CITRON. TO KEEP MULBERRIES. TO KEEP POT HERBS. TO PRESERVE SORREL. TO KEEP TRUFFLES. TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES.

CHAP. XIII. SPICED SALTS FOR MANY ILLS.

CHAP. XIV. TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES.

CHAP. XV. c.u.mIN SAUCE FOR Sh.e.l.lFISH. ANOTHER.

CHAP. XVI. LASER FLAVOR. ANOTHER.

CHAP. XVII. WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES. ANOTHER.

CHAP. XVIII. OXYPORUM.

CHAP. XIX. HYPOTRIMA.

CHAP. XX. OXYGARUM, DIGESTIVE. ANOTHER.

CHAP. XXI. MORTARIA.

I

[1] FINE SPICED WINE _CONDITUM PARADOXUM_

THE COMPOSITION OF [this] EXCELLENT SPICED WINE [is as follows]. INTO A COPPER BOWL PUT 6 s.e.xTARII [1] OF HONEY AND 2 s.e.xTARII OF WINE; HEAT ON A SLOW FIRE, CONSTANTLY STIRRING THE MIXTURE WITH A WHIP. AT THE BOILING POINT ADD A DASH OF COLD WINE, RETIRE FROM STOVE AND SKIM.

REPEAT THIS TWICE OR THREE TIMES, LET IT REST TILL THE NEXT DAY, AND SKIM AGAIN. THEN ADD 4 OZS. OF CRUSHED PEPPER [2], 3 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, A DRACHM EACH OF [nard or laurel] LEAVES AND SAFFRON, 5 DRACHMS OF ROASTED DATE STONES CRUSHED AND PREVIOUSLY SOAKED IN WINE TO SOFTEN THEM. WHEN THIS IS PROPERLY DONE ADD 18 s.e.xTARII OF LIGHT WINE. TO CLARIFY IT PERFECTLY, ADD [crushed] CHARCOAL [3] TWICE OR AS OFTEN AS NECESSARY WHICH WILL DRAW [the residue] TOGETHER [and carefully strain or filter through the charcoal].

[1] _s.e.xtarii._ Tor. _partes XV_; G.-V. _pondo XV_; List. _partes XV ... pondo lib.... qui continent s.e.xtarios s.e.x_. One s.e.xtarius (a "sixth") equals about 1-1/2 pint English.

[2] Pepper. _Piperis uncias IV_--ordinarily our black or white pepper grains, but in connection with honey, sweets, and so forth, the term "pepper" may just as well stand for our allspice, or even for any spicing in general.

[3] Charcoal. Still a favorite filterer for liquors.

List. Apicius is correct in starting his book with this formula, as all meals were started with this sort of mixed drink.

Tor. deviates from the other texts in that he elaborates on the cooking process.

[2] HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS _CONDITUM MELIZOMUM _[1]_ VIATORIUM_

THE WAYFARER'S HONEY REFRESHER (SO CALLED BECAUSE IT GIVES ENDURANCE AND STRENGTH TO PEDESTRIANS) [2] WITH WHICH TRAVELERS ARE REFRESHED BY THE WAYSIDE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER: FLAVOR HONEY WITH GROUND PEPPER AND SKIM. IN THE MOMENT OF SERVING PUT HONEY IN A CUP, AS MUCH AS IS DESIRED TO OBTAIN THE RIGHT DEGREE OF SWEETNESS, AND MIX SPICED WINE NOT MORE THAN A NEEDED QUANt.i.tY; ALSO ADD SOME WINE TO THE SPICED HONEY TO FACILITATE ITS FLOW AND THE MIXING.