The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics Part 2

CHAPTER II.

SCOURING AND BLEACHING OF COTTON.

Preparatory to the actual dyeing operations, it is necessary to treat cotton in any condition--loose cotton, yarn, or piece--so that the dyeing shall be properly done. Raw cotton contains many impurities, mechanical and otherwise; cotton yarns acc.u.mulate dirt and impurities of various kinds during the various spinning operations, while in weaving a piece of cotton cloth it is practically impossible to keep it clean and free from dirt, etc. Before the cotton can be dyed a perfectly level and uniform shade, free from dark spots or light patches, these impurities must be removed, and therefore the cotton is subjected to various scouring or cleansing operations with the object of effecting this end.

Then again cotton naturally, especially Egyptian cotton, contains a small quant.i.ty of a brown colouring matter, and this would interfere with the purity of any pale tints of blue, rose, yellow, green, etc., which may be dyed on the cotton, and so it becomes necessary to remove this colour and render the cotton quite bright. This is commonly called "bleaching". It is these preparatory processes that will be dealt with in this chapter.

=Scouring Cotton.=--When dark shades--blacks, browns, olives, sages, greens, etc., are to be dyed it is not needful to subject the cotton to a bleaching operation, but simply to a scouring by boiling it with soda or caustic soda. This is very often-carried out in the same machine as the goods will be dyed in; thus, for instance, in the case of pieces, they would be charged in a jigger, this would be filled with a liquor made from soda or from caustic soda, and the pieces run from end to end, while the liquor is being heated to the boil--usually half to three-quarters of an hour is sufficient. Then the alkali liquor is run out, clean water run into the jigger and the pieces washed, after which the dyes, etc., are run into the jigger and the dyeing done. There is usually used 2 lb. to 3 lb. of caustic soda, or 3 lb. to 4 lb. of soda for each 100 lb. of goods so treated.

If the ordinary dyeing machines are not used for this purpose, then the ordinary bleachers' kiers may be used. These will be described presently.

=Bleaching of Cotton.=--Cotton is bleached in the form of yarn, or in the finished pieces. In the latter case the method depends very largely on the nature of the fabric; it is obvious that fine fabrics, like muslins or lace curtains, cannot stand the same rough treatment as a piece of twilled calico will. Then, again, the bleaching process is varied according to what is going to be done with the goods after they are bleached; sometimes they are sent out as they leave the bleach-house; again, they may have to be dyed or printed. In the first case the bleach need not be of such a perfect character as in the last case, which again must be more perfect than the second cla.s.s of bleach.

There may be recognised:--

(1) Market or white bleach.

(2) Dyers or printers' bleach.

(3) Madder bleach.

As the madder bleach is by far the most perfect of the three, and practically includes the others, this will be described in detail, and differences between it and the others will be then pointed out. A piece is subjected to the madder bleach which has afterwards to be printed with madder or alizarine. Usually in this kind of work the cloths are printed with mordant colours, and then dyed in a bath of the dye-stuff.

This stains the whole of the piece, and to rid the cloth of the stain where it has to be left white, it is subjected to a soap bath. Now, unless the bleach has been thorough, the whites will be more or less stained permanently, and to avoid this cloths which are to be printed with alizarine colours are most thoroughly bleached. The madder bleach of the present day generally includes the following series of operations:--

(1) St.i.tching.

(2) Singeing.

(3) Singeing wash.

(4) Lime boil.

(5) Lime sour.

(6) Lye boil.

(7) Resin boil.

(8) Wash.

(9) Chemicing.

(10) White sour.

(1) =St.i.tching.=--The pieces are fastened together by st.i.tching into one long rope, which is pa.s.sed in a continuous manner through all operations in which such a proceeding is possible. This st.i.tching is done by machines, the simplest of which is the donkey machine, whereby the ends of the pieces, which are to be st.i.tched together, are forced by a pair of cogwheels working together on to the needle carrying a piece of thread, this is then pulled through and forms a running st.i.tch, a considerable length of thread being left on each side so as to prevent as far as possible the pulling asunder of the pieces by an accidental drawing out of the thread.

Birch's sewing machine is very largely used in bleach works. It consists essentially of a Wilc.o.x & Gibb machine fitted on a stand so as to be driven by power. The pieces are carried under the needle by a large wheel, the periphery of which contains a number of projecting pins that, engaging in the cloth, carry it along.

There is also a contrivance by which these pieces to be sewn can be kept stretched, this takes the form of an arm with clips at the end, which hold one end of the cloth while it is running through the machine. The clip arrangement is automatic, and just before the end pa.s.ses under the needle it is released, and the arm flies back ready for the next piece; it is, however, not necessary to use this arm always. This machine gives a chain st.i.tch sufficiently firm to resist a pull in the direction of the length of the pieces, but giving readily to a pull at the end of the thread.

The Rayer & Lincoln machine is an American invention, and is much more complicated than Birch's. It consists of a sewing machine mounted on the periphery of a large revolving wheel. This carries a number of pins, which, engaging in the cloth to be st.i.tched, carry it under the needle of the machine. Besides sewing the pieces together this machine is fitted with a pair of revolving cutters which trim the ends of the pieces as they pa.s.s through in a neat clean manner. There is also an arrangement to mark the pieces as they are being st.i.tched. Like Birch's it produces a chain st.i.tch.

What is important in sewing the ends of pieces together is to get a firm uniform st.i.tch that lies level with the cloths without any knots projecting, which would catch in the bleaching machinery during the processes of bleaching, and this might lead to much damage being done.

Should it be necessary to mark the pieces so that they can be recognised after bleaching, the best thing to use is printers' ink. Gas tar is also much used, and is very good for the purpose. Coloured inks do not resist the bleaching sufficiently well to be used satisfactory. Vermilion and Indian red are used for reds, yellow ochre is the fastest of the yellows, there is no blue which will stand the process, and Guignet's green is the only green that will at all resist the process, umber will serve for brown. All these colours are used in the form of printing ink.

The next operation is a very important one, which cannot be too carefully carried out, that is:--

(2) =Singeing.=--For printing bleaches the cloths are singed. This has for its object the removal from the surface of the cloth of the fine fibres with which it is covered, and which would, if allowed to remain, prevent the designs printed on from coming out with sufficient clearness, giving them a blurred appearance.

Singeing is done in various ways, by pa.s.sing the cloth over a red-hot copper plate, or over a red-hot revolving copper cylinder, or through a c.o.ke flame, or through gas flames, and more recently over a rod of platinum made red hot by electricity.

Plate singeing is the oldest of these methods and is still largely used.

In this method a semi-cylindrical copper plate is heated in a suitable furnace to a bright red heat, the cloths are rapidly pa.s.sed over it, and the loose fibres thereby burnt off. One great trouble is to keep the plate at one uniform heat over the whole of its surface, some parts will get hotter than others, and it is only by careful attention to the firing of the furnace that this can be obtained. To get over these difficulties Worral introduced a roller singeing machine in which the plate was replaced by a revolving copper roller, heated by a suitable furnace; the roller can be kept at a more uniform temperature than the plate. The singe obtained by the plate and roller is good, the princ.i.p.al fault being that if the cloths happen to get pressed down too much on the hot plate the loose ends are not burnt off as they should be. With both plate and roller the cloths are singed only on one side, and if both sides require to be singed a second pa.s.sage is necessary. Both systems still retain their hold as the princ.i.p.al methods in use, notwithstanding the introduction of more modern methods.

Singeing by pa.s.sing the cloths over a row of Bunsen burners has come largely into use. This has the great advantage of being very cleanly, and of doing the work very effectually, much more thoroughly than any other method, which is due to the fact that while in the methods described above only the loose fibres on the surface are burnt off; with gas all the loose fibres are burnt off. This is brought about by the gas flame pa.s.sing straight through the cloth. It is not necessary to describe the gas singeing machine in detail. Singeing machines should be kept scrupulously clean and free from fluff, which is liable to collect round them, and very liable to fire. Some machines are fitted with a flue having a powerful draught which carries off this fluff, away from any source of danger.

(3) =Singeing Wash.=--After being singed the cloths are run through a was.h.i.+ng machine to remove by water as much of the loose charred fibres as possible. The construction of a was.h.i.+ng machine is well known. It consists of a pair of large wooden rollers set above a trough containing water and into which a constant stream of water flows. In the trough is also fixed another wooden roller and the pieces are pa.s.sed round this bottom roller and between the top rollers. The cloth is pa.s.sed through and round the rollers several times in a spiral form so that it pa.s.ses through the water in the trough frequently, which is a great advantage, as the wash is thus much more effectual. The pressure between the two top rollers presses out any surplus water. The operation scarcely needs any further description.

(4) =Lime Boil.=--After the cloth leaves the singeing or grey wash, as it is often called, it pa.s.ses through the liming machine, which is made very similar to the was.h.i.+ng machine. In this it pa.s.ses through milk of lime, which should be made from freshly slaked lime. The latter maybe prepared in a pasty form in a stone cistern. The lime used should be of good quality, free from stones, badly burnt pieces or any other insoluble material, so that when slaked it should give a fine smooth pasty ma.s.s.

Lime should not be slaked too long before using, as it absorbs carbonic acid from the atmosphere, whereby carbonate of lime is formed, and this is useless for liming cloth. The pasty slaked lime may be mixed with water to form the milk of lime, and this can be run from the cistern in which it is prepared into the liming machine as it is required; the supply pipe should be run into the bottom of the trough of the liming machine and not over the top, in which latter case it may splash on to the cloths and lead to overliming, which is not to be desired on account of its liability to rot the cloth. The amount of lime used varies in different bleachworks, and there is no rule on the subject; about 5 lb.

to 7 lb. of dry lime to 100 lb. of cloth may be taken as a fair quant.i.ty to use.

The lime boil has for its object the removal or rather the saponification of the resinous and fatty matters present in the grey cloth, either naturally or which have been added in the process of weaving, or have got upon the cloth accidentally during the processes of spinning and weaving. With these bodies the lime forms insoluble lime soaps; these remain in the cloth, but in a form easily decomposable and removable by treatment with acids and was.h.i.+ng. Soda or potash is not nearly so good for this first boiling as lime--for what reason is somewhat uncertain, but probably because they form with the grease in the cloths soluble soaps, which might float about the kier and acc.u.mulate in places where they are not required and thus lead to stains, whereas the insoluble lime soap remains where it was formed. The lime also seems to attack the natural colouring matter of the cotton, and although the colour of the limed cloth is darker than before boiling, yet the nature of the colour is so altered that it is more easily removed in the after processes. Besides these changes the starchy matters put into the cloth in the sizing are dissolved away.

Great care should be taken to see that the goods are evenly laid in the kiers, not too tight, or the liquor will not penetrate properly; and not too slack, or they will float about and get entangled and more or less damaged. Then again care should be taken, especially when using low-pressure kiers, to see that the supply of liquor does not get too low, in which case the goods in the upper part of the kier are liable to get dry and are tendered thereby. So long as the goods in the kiers are not allowed to get dry there is no risk of damage; this trouble rarely arises with the Barlow and injector kiers. The inside of the kiers should be kept well limed, so that the goods shall not come in contact with the bare iron or metal of which the kier is constructed, as this would be very likely to lead to stains being produced which are by no means easy to remove. It is usual, and it is a good plan with almost all kinds of kiers, except the Mather and Edmeston kiers, to put a number of large pebbles or small stones at the bottom of the kier, which serves to make a false bottom on which the goods rest and through which the liquor penetrates and flows away. Before using, the stones should be well washed to free them from dirt and grit.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 4.--Mather & Platt's Low-pressure Bleaching Kier.]

The lime boil is carried out in what are called "kiers". Many forms of kiers have been devised, but the one in most general use is that known as the "injector kier," of which a drawing is given in Fig. 4, of the form made by Messrs. Mather & Platt of Salford. Injector kiers are made to work either under a pressure of 40 lb. to 50 lb. of steam per square inch, when they are called high-pressure kiers, or at a pressure of 15 lb. to 20 lb., when they are called low-pressure kiers. The one shown in the drawing is intended for low-pressure kiers. The principle of construction is the same in all, the details varying somewhat with different makers. Injector kiers consist of a hollow, upright iron cylinder made of plates riveted together; the top is made to lift off, but can be fastened down tightly by means of bolts and nuts as shown in the drawing. From the bottom, and placed centrally, rises a pipe, known as the puffer pipe; this terminates at the top in a rose arrangement.

The lower end of the pipe is perforated. A jet of steam is sent in at the bottom of this pipe, and by its force any liquor at the bottom of the kier is forced up the puffer pipe and distributed in a spray over any goods which may be in the kier. The liquor ultimately finds its way to the bottom of the kier ready to be blown up again. This circulation of the liquor can be maintained for any length of time and through its agency every part of the goods gets thorough and effectual treatment.

The length of the boil depends upon the kiers; with the open kier about ten hours are usually given, with the Barlow and injector kiers, working at a pressure of 40 lb. to 50 lb., six to seven hours are given.

(5) =Lime or Grey Sour.=--After the lime boil, the next operation is that of the lime sour or grey sour as it is often called to distinguish it from a subsequent souring. The souring is done in a machine constructed in the same way as a was.h.i.+ng machine; the trough of the machine is filled with hydrochloric acid at 2 Tw., which is kept ready prepared in a stone cistern and run into the machine as required (it is not advisable to use acid stronger than this). After pa.s.sing through the sour the goods are piled in a heap on the stillage for a few hours. The acid attacks the lime soap which was formed during the lime boil, decomposes it and dissolves out the lime with the formation of calcium chloride, while the fat of the soap is liberated, the former is washed away in the subsequent was.h.i.+ng, while the latter remains to a large extent on the goods, and is removed by the lye boil that follows.

Sulphuric acid is not so satisfactory to use for the lime sour as hydrochloric acid, because it forms with the lime the insoluble sulphate of calcium, which is difficult to entirely remove from the goods, whereas the chloride is very soluble and is entirely eliminated from the goods by the was.h.i.+ng that follows.

It is advisable to keep the acid at a uniform strength in the machine.

The Twaddell is here of no use as an indicator of the actual strength, because the lime which the acid dissolves, while it neutralises and reduces the strength of the acid, actually raises the Twaddell, under which circ.u.mstance the only safe method is a chemical test. This can be carried out very simply and with a sufficient degree of accuracy by the workmen, and if it be done at regular intervals during the souring, and the supply of the fresh acid be regulated, the sour will be kept at a more uniform strength and more uniform results will be obtained than if the souring were done in a more empirical fas.h.i.+on. The test is best and most easily done as follows:--

Prepare a solution of 1 oz. of the powdered high strength 98 per cent.

caustic soda in 1 pint of water, weighing and measuring these quant.i.ties very carefully. Now take a tall, narrow, white bottle of about 5 oz.

capacity and make a mark on the neck. Fill this bottle with the test solution.

Now take exactly 5 ozs. of freshly prepared sour of 2 Tw., pour into a jar, and add carefully some of the soda-test solution until a piece of cloth dyed with turmeric is turned brown, when the acid is neutralised.

Now make a mark on the bottle of soda to show how much has been used. In all subsequent tests of the sour 5 ozs. should always take the same quant.i.ty of soda solution; if it takes less it is too weak, if more it is too strong; the remedy in each case is obvious. It is worth while to graduate the test bottle for 1, 3, 4, 5 Twaddell, as well as for 2 Tw. acid.

After the souring it is often the custom to pile the goods on to a wooden stillage, but the goods should not be left too long so piled up for they may become dry, either entirely or in parts. In any case, as the goods dry the acid becomes concentrated and attacks them and makes them tender, which is not at all desirable. Therefore, if it is not convenient to proceed with them for some time after souring, they should be moistened with water from time to time, but it is best to wash them off at once, whereby they are made ready for the next operation.

(6) =Lye Boil.=--This is, perhaps, the most important operation in the whole process of bleaching, especially if the cloths are going to be printed in the so-called madder style with alizarine colours, or otherwise stains are liable to occur in the final stage, and it is then sometimes difficult to put the blame for these upon the right shoulders.

In principle the lye boil is simple, consisting in boiling the goods with a solution of soda ash, or caustic soda. The quant.i.ty of ash used varies in different works, as might naturally be expected; from 170 lb.

to 200 lb. of ash to 10,000 lb. of cloth is a fair proportion to use.

The length of boil averages about four hours, certainly not less than three should be given, and it is not necessary to give more than five hours in either ordinary kiers, with central puffer pipe, or in injector kiers.

Care should be taken to see that the goods are well packed into the kiers, not too tightly or the lye will fail to penetrate equally all through, and this is important if a uniform bleach is desired; neither should they be too loose, or they will float about and get torn. It is not necessary to be particular about the quant.i.ty of water used, except that it must be sufficient to keep the goods well covered, and still have enough to keep the circulation energetic. When the water is not sufficient in amount the goods get somewhat dry; there is then a liability to tendering, but with plenty of water there is no fear of any damage being done during a boil with alkali. Some works use caustic soda instead of soda ash in which case less is required, from 120 lb. to 150 lb. to 10,000 lb. of cloth, otherwise no alteration is made in the mode of boiling.

This lye boil clears away the fatty and waxy matter left in the goods after the lime sour, and thus prepares the way for the next boil. There is no advantage in using caustic soda in this preliminary boil, soda ash being just as effective and cheaper.

(7) =Resin Boil.=--Following the lye boil is the resin boil which consists in boiling the goods in a resin soap liquor. This is made as follows: a soda ash liquor of about 15 to 20 Tw. is prepared, and into this is thrown resin, broken up into small pieces.