The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics Part 3

The whole is boiled up until the resin is dissolved, and then as much more is added in small quant.i.ties as the alkali will take up. The soda liquor should not be much weaker than 20 Tw., it will then be heavier than the resin which will float on the top, it is found to dissolve quicker and better than when the liquor is weak, in which case, the resin would sink to the bottom of the boiler and would there melt into a single ma.s.s difficult to dissolve. The resin soap liquor when made is ready to be used. The proportions of resin and alkali used in the boil vary in different works, but, as a rule, the quant.i.ties for 10,000 lb.

of goods are 430 lb. of 58 per cent. soda ash, 180 lb. of resin, and 80 lb. of 70 per cent. caustic soda. Too much resin should be avoided, as it is found that with an excess the whites obtained are not nearly so good as when the right quant.i.ty is used; on the other hand, too little acts much in the same way. It may be taken that from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 per cent. of the weight of the goods is about the right proportion; 1 per cent. being too little, and 2 per cent. too much. The quant.i.ty of soda used should be rather more than twice that of the resin, from 3-1/2 to 4 per cent. The length of boil is usually about twelve hours in a low-pressure kier; in a high-pressure kier about seven hours is sufficient.

What the special function of the resin is in this boil is not definitely known; but experience, both on a large and small scale, proves that it is essential to obtaining a good white for alizarine printing; without it, when the goods are dyed with alizarine after the mordants have been printed on, they frequently take a brown stain--with the resin this never or but rarely happens.

(8) =Wash.=--After the lye boils the goods must be washed, and it is important that this be done in as thorough a manner as possible. With the object of accomplis.h.i.+ng this most thoroughly many was.h.i.+ng machines have been invented, the main idea in all being to bring every part of the goods into contact with as much water as possible. Bridson's is an old form, and a very good one, the principle of this machine is to cause the cloth to pa.s.s to and fro, and to flap upon the surface of the water in the trough of the machine.

Furnival's square beater works on much the same principle, and does its work effectively. More modern was.h.i.+ng machines are those of Birch, Farmer, Mather & Platt, and Hawthorne, where by the peculiar construction of the rollers and the use of beaters the cloth is very effectually washed. These machines are much more economical in the use of water than the older forms, and yet they do their work as well, if not better.

(9) =Chemicing.=--This is the actual bleaching operation, familiarly known as "chemicing," that is, the treatment of the goods with bleaching powder. The previous operations have resulted in obtaining a cloth free from grease, natural or acquired, and from other impurities, but it still has a slight brownish colour. This has to be removed before the goods can be considered a good white, which it is the aim of every bleacher they should be.

To get rid of this colour they are subjected to some final operations, the first of which is now to be considered. The chemicing consists in running the goods through a weak solution of bleaching powder (chloride of lime), piling the goods up into heaps, and allowing them to lie overnight, the next day they are finished. As the cloth has received, or ought to have received, a thorough bottoming, only a weak bath of chemic is required, about 1/2 to 1 Tw. is quite sufficient. The solution is prepared in a stone cistern. There is very little difficulty in making it, the only precaution necessary is to have the solution quite clear and free from undissolved particles, for if these get upon the cloth they will either lead to the production of minute holes, or they may overbleach the fibre, which in such case will have the power of attracting excess of colour in any subsequent dyeing process and thus lead to stains, the origin of which may not be readily grasped at the first sight.

It is best, therefore, either to allow the solution to settle in the cistern till quite clear, which is the simplest way, or to filter through cloth.

The chemicing is best done cold and with weak solution, at 1/2 Tw.

rather than 1 Tw. Warming the liquor increases the rapidity of the bleaching action, but there is a risk of over-chloring, which must be avoided as far as possible, because there is then danger of tendering the fibre, moreover, such over-chlored cloth has an affinity for colouring matters that is not at all desirable, as it leads to the production of stains and patches in the dyeing operations. It is much better, when a single chemicing does not bleach the cloth sufficiently and give a white, to run the cloth twice through a weak liquor rather than once through a strong liquor.

Although the chemicing is followed by a sour, which, acting on the bleaching powder, liberates chlorine that bleaches the fabric, yet the greatest proportion of the bleaching effect is brought about while the pieces are being piled up into heaps between the chemicing and the sour.

In this state they should be left for some hours, covered over with a damp sheet, care being taken that they are not left piled so long as to become dry, as in this event there is a great risk of tendering the cloth or fabric; it is, therefore, a good plan to moisten them with a little water from time to time. They should not be tightly piled up, but be as loose as possible, so that the air can get to them, as it is the carbonic acid and other acid vapours in the air, that by acting on the chemic causes slow liberation of chlorine, which effects the bleaching of the goods.

(10) =White Sour.=--After the chemicing the goods are treated to a sour, for which purpose either hydrochloric acid or sulphuric acid may be used.

Hydrochloric acid possesses the advantage of forming a more soluble salt of lime (calcium chloride) than does sulphuric acid (calcium sulphate), and it has a more solvent action upon any traces of iron and other metallic oxide stains which may be present in the goods. On the other hand, on account of its fuming properties, it is unpleasant to work with. The souring is done by pa.s.sing the goods through an acid liquor at 2 Tw. strong and piling for two or three hours, after which it is washed. This final was.h.i.+ng must be thorough, so that all traces of acid and chemic are washed out, otherwise there is a tendency for the goods to acquire a yellowish colouration.

So far the routine has been described of the so-called madder bleach, the most perfect kind of bleach applied to cotton cloths. Besides this two other kinds of bleach are distinguished in the trade. Turkey red and market bleach. The former is used when the cloth or yarn is to be dyed plain or self-coloured with delicate shades with Alizarine; the latter is used for cloth sold in the white. As the operations involved in producing these are identical in their method of manipulation to those already described, it will only be necessary to give an outline of the process for each one.

=Turkey Red Bleach=--(1) Rinse through water into a kier and boil for two hours. (2) Lime boil for three to four hours. The amount of lime required is rather less than what is used with the madder bleach, from 2-1/2 lb. to 3 lb, lime to each 1 cwt. of goods being quite sufficient.

(3) Souring as in the madder bleach. (4) Lye boil, using about 100 lb.

caustic soda to a ton of goods, and giving ten hours' boil. (5) Second lye boil using about 50 lb. soda ash to a ton of goods, after which the goods are well washed. (6) Chemicing as with the madder bleach. (7) Souring as with the madder bleach, then was.h.i.+ng well.

This represents an average process, but almost every bleacher has his own methods, differing from the above in some of the details and this applies to all bleaching processes. It is obvious that the details may be varied to a great extent without changing the principles on which the process depends.

=Market Bleach=--Here all that requires to be done is to get the cloth of a sufficient degree of whiteness to please the eye of the customer.

Market bleachers have, however, to deal with a wider range of goods than is dealt with in the former kinds of bleaches, from very fine muslins to very heavy sheetings. Now it is obvious from a merely mechanical point of view, that the former could not stand as rough a process as the latter, therefore there must be some differences in the details of muslin bleaching and sheeting bleaching. Then again with goods sold in the white, it is customary to weave coloured headings or markings, and as these have to be preserved, to do so will cause some slight alteration of the details of the bleach with this object. On all these points it is difficult to lay down general rules because of the very varying feature of the conditions which are met with by the market bleacher.

The resin boil may be omitted, only two lye boils being required, and these need not be so long or of such a searching character as the corresponding boils of the madder bleach. Outlines of two or three such processes, which are now in use in bleach works, will serve to show the general routine of a market bleach. The proportions given are calculated for 10,000 lb. of goods:--

(1) Lime boil, using 500 lb. of lime, and giving a twelve-hours' boil.

(2) Grey sour, hydrochloric acid of 2 Tw., then wash well.

(3) Lye boil, 100 lb. caustic soda, 70 per cent. solid, ten to twelve hours' boil; wash.

(4) Second lye boil, 100 lb., 58 per cent. soda ash, twelve-hours' boil.

(5) Chemic, bleaching powder liquor at 1 Tw., boil for three hours; wash.

(6) White sour, sulphuric acid at 2 Tw.; wash well.

The length of boil with the lime and lyes will depend upon the quality of the goods, heavy goods will require from two to three hours longer than will light goods, such as cambrics, the time given above being that for heavy goods, sheetings, etc.

Another process is the following:--

(1) Lime boil, using 480 lb. lime, and boiling for ten hours.

(2) Grey sour, hydrochloric acid at 2 Tw.; wash.

(3) Lye boil, 300 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent.; 50 lb. caustic soda, 70 per cent., and 30 lb. soft soap, giving ten hours' boil; wash.

(4) Chemic as above.

(5) White sour as above; wash well.

A smaller quant.i.ty of lime is used here, but on the other hand the lye boil is a stronger one. This process gives good results. Some bleachers do not use lime in their market bleaches, but give two lye boils, in which case the process becomes:--

(1) Lye boil, using 140 lb. caustic soda, of 70 per cent., giving ten hours' boil and was.h.i.+ng well.

(2) Second lye boil, using 120 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent., and giving ten hours' boil; wash.

(3) Chemic as above.

(4) White sour as above; wash well.

Light fabrics, such as laces, lace curtains, muslins, etc., cannot stand the strain of the continuous process, and they are therefore subjected to a different bleaching process, which varies much at different bleach works. One method is to lime by steeping for an hour in a weak lime liquor, using about 2 lb. of lime to 100 lb. of goods; they are then boiled in the kier for eight hours, after which they are washed. This was.h.i.+ng is done in what are called dash wheels, large hollow wheels, the interior of each being divided into four compartments. Into these the goods are put, and the wheel is caused to revolve, while at the same time a current of water flows with some force into the interior of the wheel and washes the goods.

The wheels do their work well, and the action being gentle the finest fabrics can be washed without fear of any damage. It is necessary that the speed at which they are driven should be such that as the wheel revolves the goods are thrown from side to side of each compartment; if the speed be too slow they will simply slide down, and then they do not get properly washed; on the other hand, if the speed be too great then centrifugal action comes into play and the goods remain in a stationary position in the wheels with the same result. As to the amount of was.h.i.+ng, it should be as before. After this was.h.i.+ng they are boiled again in the kier with soda ash, using about 8 lb. ash for 100 lb. goods and giving seven hours' boil, which, after was.h.i.+ng, is followed by a second boil with 5 lb. ash and 4 lb. soft soap for each 100 lb. of goods, giving eight hours' boil. They are then washed and entered into the chemic. The chemicing is done in stone cisterns, which are fitted with false bottoms, on which the goods can rest, and which allow any insoluble particles of bleaching powder to settle out and prevent them from getting on the goods. The liquor is used at the strength of about 1/2 Tw., and the goods are allowed to steep about two hours; they are then placed in a hydro-extractor and the surplus chemic is whizzed out, after which they are steeped in sour of hydrochloric acid at 1 Tw., kept in a stone cistern, the goods being allowed to steep for two hours.

Next they are washed, well whizzed, pa.s.sed through a blueing water, whizzed again, and dried. The remarks made when describing similar operations of the madder bleach as to the action, testing, etc., of the chemicals, are equally applicable here.

Another plan of bleaching fine fabrics is shown in outline in the following scheme:--

(1) Wash; boil in water for two hours.

(2) Boil in soda for five hours, using 80 lb. soda ash of 58 per cent., and 30 lb. soft soap for 1,000 lb. of goods.

(3) Second soda boil, using from 40 lb. to 50 lb. soda ash, and 15 lb.

to 20 lb. soft soap, giving four hours' boil; after each soda boil the goods should be washed.

(4) Chemic, using bleaching powder liquor at 1/2 Tw., allowing them to steep for two hours, then wash and whiz.

(5) White sour, using hydrochloric acid at 2 Tw., steeping two hours; wash.

A further extension of the same process is sometimes given for the best goods, which consists, after the above, in giving:--

(6) A third soda boil, using 25 lb. to 30 lb. soda ash and 15 lb. to 20 lb. soft soap, giving one hour's boil; was.h.i.+ng.

(7) Chemic as before.

(8) Sour as before, after which the goods are well washed.

In the bleaching of Nottingham lace curtains for the soda boils there is used what is called the "dolly," which consists of a large round wooden tub about 5 feet to 6 feet in diameter and about 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet deep; this is made to revolve slowly at about one revolution per minute. Above the tub on a strong frame are arranged four stampers or beaters, which are caused to rise and fall by means of cams. The goods are placed in the tub with the scouring liquors and the dolly is set in motion, the beaters force the liquor into the goods, and the revolution of the tub causes the beaters to work on a fresh portion of the goods at every fall.

This is rather an old-fas.h.i.+oned form of machine, and is being replaced by more modern forms of boiling kiers. In bleaching certain kinds of muslins in which the warp threads are double, and in the case of lace curtains, it is necessary to endeavour to keep the threads as open and prominent as possible. This cannot be done with the continuous process, which puts a strain on the threads and thus effaces their individuality.

To avoid this the fabrics have to be dealt with in bundles or lumps, and on these no strain is put, therefore every thread retains its individuality. The process above described is applicable.

=Yarn Bleaching.=--Yarn is supplied to the bleacher in two forms: (1) warps in which the length of the threads may vary from as little as 50 to as much as 5,000 yards; these can be dealt with in much the same manner as a piece of cloth, that is, a continuous system can be adopted; (2) hanks, which are too well known to require description. Sometimes yarn is bleached in the form of cops, but as the results of cop bleaching are not very satisfactory it is done as little as possible.

=Warp Bleaching.=--The warp, if very long, is doubled two, three or four times upon itself, so as to reduce its length. Care should be taken that the ends of the warp are tied together to prevent any chance of entangling, which would very likely happen if the ends were left loose to float about. As a rule, warps are not limed, but the adoption of the liming would a.s.sist the bleaching. In outline warp bleaching consists of the following operations:--

(1) Lye boil, using 30 lb. caustic soda, 70 per cent., and 50 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent., giving six hours' boil, and was.h.i.+ng.

(2) Sweeting, boil with 80 lb. soda ash, 58 per cent., for two hours.

(3) Was.h.i.+ng.

(4) Chemicing, bleaching powder liquor at 1 Tw., was.h.i.+ng.

(5) Sour, sulphuric acid at 2 Tw,. was.h.i.+ng well.

(6) Hydro extracting and drying.

About 2,000 to 3,000 lb. of warps are usually treated at one time.