Veganomicon: The Ultimate Vegan Cookbook Part 11

2-3 teaspoons olive oil

12 (8-inch) round rice paper wrappers

4 ounces vermicelli rice noodles or rice sticks

1 cup fresh cilantro, torn into bite-size pieces (Thai

basil makes a nice variation)

cup roasted, salted pumpkin seeds, chopped

coa.r.s.ely

Dipping sauce *contains soy: 2 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon Asian hot chile oil (or more to taste)

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons sugar

Prepare the squash: Preheat the oven to 400F. Place the b.u.t.ternut cubes on a baking sheet and rub them all over with the oil; drizzle on another teaspoon if you need to. Arrange the cubes in a single layer and roast for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss, and cook for 10 more minutes or until tender and slightly caramelized. Transfer the squash to a plate to cool.

While the squash is cooking, prepare the noodles. There are usually directions on the package, but just in case: Boil a large pot of water. Once it is boiling, turn off the heat, add the noodles, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain in a colander and run cold water over them to prevent further cooking. Set aside until ready to use.

To a.s.semble: Fill a large pie plate or bowl with very warm water; tap water works just fine. Place two rice paper wrappers in the water at a time, completely submerged and let sit for about a minute, until they have softened.

Handle each wrapper gently as you place it on your work surface. Place about cup of rice noodles in the lower third of the wrapper, leaving about 1 inches of margin from the far edges on either side (you'll be folding those in). Place a layer of b.u.t.ternut squash above the noodles. Sprinkle with the cilantro and pumpkin seeds. If some of the seeds get stuck to your fingers, just dip them in the water. To roll, snugly fold the left and right sides of the wrapper over the filling. Lift the bottom of the wrapper over the filling and tuck it underneath the filling, then roll firmly but gently. Place the rolls seam side down on a plate and cut in half when ready to serve. Mix the dipping sauce ingredients together and stir rigorously to dissolve the sugar. Serve with the rolls.

BROCCOLI-MILLET CROQUETTES.

MAKES 16 CROQUETTES.

TIME: 2 HOURS, LOTS OF IT INACTIVE.

Somehow, forming anything into a croquette makes a meal very impressive, even though it is an easy thing to do. Millet and broccoli are cooked together with garlic, tarragon, and red pepper, formed into squat little cus.h.i.+ons, and lightly panfried. These make a great vehicle for the White Bean Aioli (page 62) or Dill-Tahini Sauce (page 215). They are delicately flavored, so definitely include a sauce when you serve. Round out the meal with roasted asparagus and red peppers (page 26).

Make ahead: Prepare the millet and broccoli a day in advance. Then you only need about 20 minutes to finish preparing this dish.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for panfrying

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

teaspoon red pepper flakes

Several pinches of freshly ground black pepper

teaspoon salt

1 cup millet

2 cups vegetable broth

4 cups broccoli, tops and stalks, chopped very finely

into pea-size or smaller pieces

When you chop the broccoli florets, they will probably crumble a lot. That is fine; just throw the crumbled tiny bits in with the rest of the broccoli.

PREHEAT A small pot over medium heat. Saute the garlic in the oil for about 30 seconds. Add the tarragon, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and salt, and mix for a few seconds. Add the millet and stir constantly for about 3 minutes to toast it. It should turn a shade darker. If it doesn't, don't sweat it too bad, just proceed with the recipe. Better that than you burn the garlic.

Add the vegetable broth and cover; bring to a boil. Once the mixture is boiling, lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes.

Mix in the chopped broccoli, cover, and cook for about 7 more minutes. Uncover and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring often. Once the water is mostly absorbed, turn off the heat but leave the pot on the stove, covered, to continue to cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. At that point, all of the water should be absorbed and the millet should be mushy if you push down on it with a spoon. It's very important that the millet be well cooked or the croquettes could fall apart, so if it doesn't seem fully cooked, let it sit for an additional 5 or 10 minutes. You are looking for a polenta-like consistency.

Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool for about 10 minutes, then move the bowl to the fridge to cool the rest of the way, for about 45 minutes or so. Give it a stir now and again to speed up the cooling process. Don't skip or skimp on this cooling step or your croquettes will turn to millet mush in the skillet.

Once cooled, tightly form the millet into golf ball-size b.a.l.l.s. Press them down in your hands to flatten just a bit, then roll the sides between your hands to form tire-shaped croquettes.

Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Cook the croquettes in batches for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. They should be golden brown with a few darker spots.

Serve immediately.

GREEK-STYLE TOMATO-ZUCCHINI FRITTERS WITH FRESH HERBS.

SERVES 4-6.

TIME: 45 MINUTES.

Just as enticing but way cheaper than a vacation on Santorini Island, these dairy-free Greek-inspired fritters are bursting with chunks of fresh tomato, dill, and mint. The addition of zucchini creates a tender and light texture. These are absolutely sublime served along with Mediter ranean-Style Cashew-Cuc.u.mber Dip (page 66).You can easily make this lovely summertime appetizer into a meal by serving with salad greens dressed with olive oil and fresh lemon juice. For the fry-o-phobe, we give you alternative baking instructions as well.

1 (1-pound) package firm tofu, squeezed to remove

extra water, then crumbled