Fast Food Nation Part 11

269 it continues to use them overseas: it continues to use them overseas: See "An Incoherent Policy," See "An Incoherent Policy," South China Morning Post South China Morning Post, May 15, 1995; Jo Bowman, "Little Relish to Sc.r.a.p Burger Boxes," South China Morning Post South China Morning Post, October 24, 1999.

it would no longer purchase frozen french fries: For McDonald's decision on biotech fries, see Scott Kilman, "McDonald's, Other Fast Food Chains Pull Monsanto's Bio-Engineered Potato," For McDonald's decision on biotech fries, see Scott Kilman, "McDonald's, Other Fast Food Chains Pull Monsanto's Bio-Engineered Potato," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, April 28, 2000; Hal Bernton, "Hostile Market Spells Blight for Biotech Potatoes," Seattle Times Seattle Times, April 30, 2000.

Afterword: The Meaning of Mad Cow Since writing Fast Food Nation Fast Food Nation I've come across a number of relevant and noteworthy books. Almost twenty years ago Orville Sch.e.l.l issued an eloquent warning against treating livestock like industrial commodities. Sch.e.l.l approached the subject not only as a journalist, but as an innovative rancher. Had the recommendations in his book I've come across a number of relevant and noteworthy books. Almost twenty years ago Orville Sch.e.l.l issued an eloquent warning against treating livestock like industrial commodities. Sch.e.l.l approached the subject not only as a journalist, but as an innovative rancher. Had the recommendations in his book Modern Meat Modern Meat (New York: Random House, 1984) been followed, the American meatpacking industry would have avoided many of the health scares and export restrictions it now faces. In (New York: Random House, 1984) been followed, the American meatpacking industry would have avoided many of the health scares and export restrictions it now faces. In The Great Food Gamble The Great Food Gamble (London: Hodder & Stoughton, 2001), John Humphrys explains the mentality and the inst.i.tutional changes that have led Great Britain from one agricultural distaster to another. George Monbiot's (London: Hodder & Stoughton, 2001), John Humphrys explains the mentality and the inst.i.tutional changes that have led Great Britain from one agricultural distaster to another. George Monbiot's Captive State Captive State (London: Macmillan, 2000) brilliantly outlines the corporate takeover of the British government during the past twenty years. Naomi Klein's (London: Macmillan, 2000) brilliantly outlines the corporate takeover of the British government during the past twenty years. Naomi Klein's No Logo No Logo (London: Flamingo, 2001) offers a d.a.m.ning critique of global corporate power and the reigning cult of the brand. Klein has rightly emerged at the forefront of today's young rebels. Tony Royle's (London: Flamingo, 2001) offers a d.a.m.ning critique of global corporate power and the reigning cult of the brand. Klein has rightly emerged at the forefront of today's young rebels. Tony Royle's Working for McDonald's in Europe Working for McDonald's in Europe (New York: Routledge, 2000) skillfully outlines how McDonald's has exported its anti-labor policies to countries with long traditions of respecting workers' rights. Among other things, Royle describes how the McDonald's Corporation recruited low-wage workers in Bulgaria and Romania for its restaurants in Germany, providing these new immigrants with housing as a means of controlling them (see (New York: Routledge, 2000) skillfully outlines how McDonald's has exported its anti-labor policies to countries with long traditions of respecting workers' rights. Among other things, Royle describes how the McDonald's Corporation recruited low-wage workers in Bulgaria and Romania for its restaurants in Germany, providing these new immigrants with housing as a means of controlling them (see pp. 768 pp. 768). Jose Bove, the sheep farmer who became a national hero in France by demolis.h.i.+ng a McDonald's restaurant, offers a plea for sustainable agriculture in The World is Not for Sale: Farmers Against Junk Food The World is Not for Sale: Farmers Against Junk Food (London: Verso, 2001). Written with Francois Dufour, the General Secretary of the French Farmers' Confederation, (London: Verso, 2001). Written with Francois Dufour, the General Secretary of the French Farmers' Confederation, The World is Not for Sale The World is Not for Sale argues that important decisions about what we eat should never be made without considering their social costs and their impact on future generations. The most radical thing about Bove's argument is how sensible it seems. argues that important decisions about what we eat should never be made without considering their social costs and their impact on future generations. The most radical thing about Bove's argument is how sensible it seems.

Two alarming books have been published about the risk of mad cow disease in the United States. Richard Rhodes's Deadly Feasts: The Prion Controversy and The Public's Health Deadly Feasts: The Prion Controversy and The Public's Health (New York: Touchstone, 1998) contains fascinating information on the health risks posed by cannibalism and a fine account of the detective work that linked BSE to the consumption of tainted animal feed. In (New York: Touchstone, 1998) contains fascinating information on the health risks posed by cannibalism and a fine account of the detective work that linked BSE to the consumption of tainted animal feed. In Mad Cow U.S.A. Mad Cow U.S.A. (New York: Common Courage, 1997), Sheldon Rampton and John C. Stauber reveal how the beef industry and the federal government collaborated to thwart public discussion of mad cow. The duo's efforts at the Center for Media and Democracy offer a necessary antidote to the P.R. industry's relentless propaganda. As of this writing, the most definitive and disturbing investigation of mad cow disease is the sixteen-volume report on BSE submitted to the British government by Lord Phillips of Worth Matravers. Its official t.i.tle is (New York: Common Courage, 1997), Sheldon Rampton and John C. Stauber reveal how the beef industry and the federal government collaborated to thwart public discussion of mad cow. The duo's efforts at the Center for Media and Democracy offer a necessary antidote to the P.R. industry's relentless propaganda. As of this writing, the most definitive and disturbing investigation of mad cow disease is the sixteen-volume report on BSE submitted to the British government by Lord Phillips of Worth Matravers. Its official t.i.tle is Return to an Order of the Honourable the House of Commons dated October 2000 for the Report, evidence and supporting papers of the Inquiry into the emergence and identification of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE) and variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease (vCJD) and the action taken in response to it up to 20 March 1996 Return to an Order of the Honourable the House of Commons dated October 2000 for the Report, evidence and supporting papers of the Inquiry into the emergence and identification of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE) and variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease (vCJD) and the action taken in response to it up to 20 March 1996. Its full text is available online (www.bse.org.uk). Also known as The BSE Inquiry: The Report The BSE Inquiry: The Report, it offers some extraordinary glimpses of bureaucratic cowardice and incompetence.

In addition to those works, my account of mad cow disease and the FDA rulemaking process is based on the following doc.u.ments: "Finding of No Significant Impact and Environmental a.s.sessment for 21 CFR 589.2000, Prohibition of Protein Derived from Ruminant and Mink Tissues in Ruminant Feeds," Center for Veterinary Medicine, Food and Drug Adminstration, November 1996; "Substances Prohibited for Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Proposed Rule," Part IV, Federal Register Federal Register, January 3, 1997; "Cost a.n.a.lysis of Regulatory Options to Reduce the Risk of an Outbreak of Transmissable Spongiform Encephalopathies (TSEs) in the United States, Addendum to the Final Report," Office of Planning and Evaluation, Food and Drug Administration, April 30, 1997; "Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Final Rule," Part II, Federal Register Federal Register, June 5, 1997. I also relied on transcripts of two public forums held by the FDA to allow discussion of its proposed feed rules: "Food and Drug Administration, Public Forum on the Proposed Rule 21 CFR 589: Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed, St. Louis, Missouri, February 4, 1997" and "Public Meeting for Consumers Regarding Federal Register Federal Register 21 CFR Part 589, Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Proposed Rule; Was.h.i.+ngton D.C., February 13, 1997." For years the reporting about mad cow disease in 21 CFR Part 589, Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Proposed Rule; Was.h.i.+ngton D.C., February 13, 1997." For years the reporting about mad cow disease in Food Chemical News Food Chemical News has been objective and first-rate. has been objective and first-rate.

Interviews with software designer Hitesh Shah, journalist Viji Sundaram, and attorney Harish Bharti helped me understand how revelations about McDonald's fries and the flavor industry led to riots in India. I am grateful to Eugene Richards for pus.h.i.+ng hard to complete our photoessay on the lives of meatpacking workers, and to Roger Cohn, the editor of Mother Jones Mother Jones, for publis.h.i.+ng it without hesitation. The plight of Latino meatpacking workers in Texas was eloquently described to me by Trini Gamez at the Centro Gamez in Amarillo and by Michael Wyatt, the director of Texas Rural Legal a.s.sistance. Attorneys Jim Wood, Channy Wood, and Kevin Glasheen explicated for me some of the unique features of Texas workers' comp law. They have demonstrated real courage in their legal battles with the meatpacking giants. Karen Olsson, editor of the Texas Observer Texas Observer, was extremely generous with her own research on IBP. Michael J. Broadway, an expert on meatpacking who heads the Department of Geography at the University of Michigan, provided much information and encouragement. Most of all, I am grateful to the injured meatpacking workers who shared their stories with me: Kenny Dobbins, Hector Reyes, Raul Lopez, Rita Beltran, Dora Sanchez, and Michael Glover, among others. Their suffering cannot adequately be put into words.

Page 272 the agency would "expedite": the agency would "expedite": Quoted in Lawrence K. Altman, "Cow Disease Sparks Voluntary Rules on Feed," Quoted in Lawrence K. Altman, "Cow Disease Sparks Voluntary Rules on Feed," New York Times New York Times, March 30, 1996.

"keen consumers of beef burgers": Quoted in Claire O'Brien, "Scant Data Cause Widespread Concern," Quoted in Claire O'Brien, "Scant Data Cause Widespread Concern," Science Science, March 29, 1996.American cattle were eating about 2 billion pounds: According to the USDA, the rendering industry at the time handled about 7.6 million tons of ruminant protein per year, about 5.5 million tons of it derived from cattle. Approximately 13 percent of the animal protein handled by industry (992,099 tons) was used in cattle feed. I have converted the tons into pounds to give a sense of the ma.s.sive amounts of slaughterhouse waste involved. The figures are cited in "Finding of No Significant Impact and Environmental a.s.sessment for 21 CFR 589.2000, Prohibition of Protein Derived from Ruminant and Mink Tissues in Ruminant Feeds," Center for Veterinary Medicine, Food and Drug Administration, November 1996, pp. 1516, 21. According to the USDA, the rendering industry at the time handled about 7.6 million tons of ruminant protein per year, about 5.5 million tons of it derived from cattle. Approximately 13 percent of the animal protein handled by industry (992,099 tons) was used in cattle feed. I have converted the tons into pounds to give a sense of the ma.s.sive amounts of slaughterhouse waste involved. The figures are cited in "Finding of No Significant Impact and Environmental a.s.sessment for 21 CFR 589.2000, Prohibition of Protein Derived from Ruminant and Mink Tissues in Ruminant Feeds," Center for Veterinary Medicine, Food and Drug Administration, November 1996, pp. 1516, 21.three-quarters of all American cattle: Cited in Michael Satch.e.l.l and Stephen J. Hedges, "The Next Bad Beef Scandal? Cattle Feed Now Contains Things Like Chicken Manure and Dead Cats," Cited in Michael Satch.e.l.l and Stephen J. Hedges, "The Next Bad Beef Scandal? Cattle Feed Now Contains Things Like Chicken Manure and Dead Cats," U.S. News & World Report U.S. News & World Report, September 1, 1997.

273 "totally unsupported by any scientific evidence": "totally unsupported by any scientific evidence": Quoted in "Rendering Industry Supports Voluntary Guidelines for Cattle with Suspected CNS Disease," Quoted in "Rendering Industry Supports Voluntary Guidelines for Cattle with Suspected CNS Disease," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, July 29, 1996.

"unfeasible, impractical, and unenforceable": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid.brains, spinal cords, eyeb.a.l.l.s: See "NCBA Urges Scientific BSE Prevention," Press Release, National Cattlemen's Beef a.s.sociation, February 18, 1997. See "NCBA Urges Scientific BSE Prevention," Press Release, National Cattlemen's Beef a.s.sociation, February 18, 1997.fats, blood, blood products: See "Industry, Public Interest Groups Differ on FDA's Proposed Ruminant Ban," See "Industry, Public Interest Groups Differ on FDA's Proposed Ruminant Ban," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, March 10, 1997.allowing cattle to continue eating dead pigs: See the statement of Dr. Beth Lautner, vice president of science and technology at the National Pork Producers Council, Transcript of "Food and Drug Administration, Public Forum on the Proposed Rule 21 CFR 589: Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed, St. Louis, Missouri, February 4, 1997," p. 101. See the statement of Dr. Beth Lautner, vice president of science and technology at the National Pork Producers Council, Transcript of "Food and Drug Administration, Public Forum on the Proposed Rule 21 CFR 589: Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed, St. Louis, Missouri, February 4, 1997," p. 101."all mammal remains to all food animals": Quoted in "Controlling 'Mad Cow Disease': We call for stronger FDA action," Quoted in "Controlling 'Mad Cow Disease': We call for stronger FDA action," Consumer Reports Consumer Reports, May 1997.The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention advised: See "CDC Rejects Any Weakening of FDA's Ruminant Feed Ban Proposal," See "CDC Rejects Any Weakening of FDA's Ruminant Feed Ban Proposal," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, March 31, 1997."The United States has no BSE": Quoted in "Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Final Rule," Part II, Quoted in "Substances Prohibited from Use in Animal Food or Feed; Animal Proteins Prohibited in Ruminant Feed; Final Rule," Part II, Federal Register Federal Register, June 5, 1997, p. 30939."mammalian-to-ruminant, with exceptions": Quoted in ibid., p. 30968. Quoted in ibid., p. 30968.

274 these industry groups rightly worried: these industry groups rightly worried: See "FDA Public Forum," pp. 369. See "FDA Public Forum," pp. 369.

a remarkable example of cooperation': Quoted in Chuck Cannon, "Renderers Appear To Be Bearing Up Well to FDA's Ban on Ruminant Protein in feed," Quoted in Chuck Cannon, "Renderers Appear To Be Bearing Up Well to FDA's Ban on Ruminant Protein in feed," Meat Marketing & Technology Meat Marketing & Technology, March 1998."protected the beef industry": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid."verbatim": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid."the number of BSE cases there soon doubled": Cited in "Developments in Mad-Cow History," Cited in "Developments in Mad-Cow History," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, March 1, 2001.the number of BSE cases increased fivefold: Cited in Geoff Winestock, "Tracking Spread of 'Mad Cow' in Europe Remains Random," Cited in Geoff Winestock, "Tracking Spread of 'Mad Cow' in Europe Remains Random," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 8, 2001.that supplied ground beef to McDonald's restaurants: See Melanie Goodfellow, "Italy's First BSE Case Found in Cow Destined for McDonald's," See Melanie Goodfellow, "Italy's First BSE Case Found in Cow Destined for McDonald's," The Independent The Independent, January 16, 2001, and "Final Tests Confirm BSE in Cow in Italian Slaughterhouse That Supplies McDonald's," AP Worldstream AP Worldstream, January 16, 2001.plummet by as much as 50 percent: Cited in Geoff Winestock, "'Mad-Cow' Disease Cases Jump Despite EU Increased Testing," Cited in Geoff Winestock, "'Mad-Cow' Disease Cases Jump Despite EU Increased Testing," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 8, 2001.

275 one-quarter of the firms handling "prohibited" feed: one-quarter of the firms handling "prohibited" feed: Cited in "Food Safety: Controls Can Be Strengthened to Reduce the Risk of Disease Linked to Unsafe Animal Feed," GAO/RCD-00255, United States General Accounting Office, September 2000, p. 12. Cited in "Food Safety: Controls Can Be Strengthened to Reduce the Risk of Disease Linked to Unsafe Animal Feed," GAO/RCD-00255, United States General Accounting Office, September 2000, p. 12.

one-fifth of the firms handling both: Cited in ibid., p. 12. Cited in ibid., p. 12.one out of every ten rendering firms: Cited in ibid., p. 12. Cited in ibid., p. 12.In Colorado, more than one-quarter: Cited in Michael Booth, "Mad Cow Rules Violated," Cited in Michael Booth, "Mad Cow Rules Violated," Denver Post Denver Post, May 13, 2001.sales in Europe had already fallen by 10 percent: Cited in "McDonald's Not Out of Mad Cows Woods Yet - CFO," Cited in "McDonald's Not Out of Mad Cows Woods Yet - CFO," Reuters Reuters, February 28, 2001."If McDonald's is requiring something": Quoted in Philip Brasher, "McDonald's Forcing Beef Industry to Comply with Mad Cow Rules," Quoted in Philip Brasher, "McDonald's Forcing Beef Industry to Comply with Mad Cow Rules," a.s.sociated Press a.s.sociated Press, March 13, 2001."Because we have the world's biggest shopping cart": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid.

276 "McGarbage": "McGarbage": Douglas Kern, "McGarbage", Douglas Kern, "McGarbage", National Review Online Weekend National Review Online Weekend, January 278, 2001.

"hodgepodge of impressions": Cynthia Crossen, "A Culinary Wasteland," Cynthia Crossen, "A Culinary Wasteland," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 12, 2001."anecdotal": The AMI spokeswoman was Janet Riley, quoted in Regina Schrambling, "Catching America with Its Hand in the Fries," The AMI spokeswoman was Janet Riley, quoted in Regina Schrambling, "Catching America with Its Hand in the Fries," New York Times New York Times, March 21, 2001."The real McDonald's": Quoted in Alby Gallun, "McDonald's Mid-Life Crisis," Quoted in Alby Gallun, "McDonald's Mid-Life Crisis," Crain's Chicago Business Crain's Chicago Business, April 30, 2001.

277 One of President George W. Bush's first acts: One of President George W. Bush's first acts: For the implications of Bush's move, see "Working America Challenges Corporate America," For the implications of Bush's move, see "Working America Challenges Corporate America," U.S. Newswire U.S. Newswire, March 6, 2001; Victor Epstein, "Arguments over Ergonomics Keenly Felt by Injured Workers," Omaha World-Herald Omaha World-Herald, March 8, 2001; and Mike Allen, "Bush Signs Repeal of Ergonomics Rules," Was.h.i.+ngton Post Was.h.i.+ngton Post, March 21, 2001.

Norwood sponsored legislation: In 1997, Norwood sponsored a bill (along with Congressman Joel Hefley from Colorado Springs) that essentially aimed to repeal the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970. See "Hutchison, Hefley Introduce Proposals in House, Senate to Overhaul OSHA," In 1997, Norwood sponsored a bill (along with Congressman Joel Hefley from Colorado Springs) that essentially aimed to repeal the Occupational Safety and Health Act of 1970. See "Hutchison, Hefley Introduce Proposals in House, Senate to Overhaul OSHA," Asbestos & Lead Abatement Report Asbestos & Lead Abatement Report, April 7, 1997.repet.i.tive stress injuries from skiing: See Sarah Anderson, "OSHA under Siege," See Sarah Anderson, "OSHA under Siege," The Progressive The Progressive, December 1995.The meatpacking industry's lobbyists were delighted: See Allison Beers, "USDA Plans to Change School Lunch Specs for Ground Beef, Pork, Turkey," See Allison Beers, "USDA Plans to Change School Lunch Specs for Ground Beef, Pork, Turkey," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, April 2, 2001; Marc Kauffman, "USDA Proposes to Reverse School Ground Beef Rules," Was.h.i.+ngton Post Was.h.i.+ngton Post, April 5, 2001; and Marian Burros, "U.S. Proposes End to Testing for Salmonella in School Beef," New York Times New York Times, April 5, 2001.roughly 5 million pounds were rejected: Cited in Beers, "USDA Plans". Cited in Beers, "USDA Plans".

278 "For flavor enhancement": "For flavor enhancement": Quoted in Viji Sundaram, "Where's the Beef? It's in Your French Fries," Quoted in Viji Sundaram, "Where's the Beef? It's in Your French Fries," India-West India-West, April 5, 2001.

"Eating a cow for a Hindu": Quoted in Laurie Goodstein, "For Hindus and Vegetarians, Surprise in McDonald's Fries," Quoted in Laurie Goodstein, "For Hindus and Vegetarians, Surprise in McDonald's Fries," New York Times New York Times, May 20, 2001.

279 "We came to warn them": "We came to warn them": Quoted in "Hardline Hindus: Close McDonald's," Quoted in "Hardline Hindus: Close McDonald's," Ha'aretz Ha'aretz, May 6, 2001.

"If you visit McDonald's anywhere": "Healthy Eating," McDonald's Corporation, Australian Web site, "Healthy Eating," McDonald's Corporation, Australian Web site, www.McDonalds.com.au, 2001.adjusting its french fry recipe: Interview with Anna Rozenich, the McDonald's Corporation. Interview with Anna Rozenich, the McDonald's Corporation."We regret if customers felt": "McDonald's French Fry Facts", McDonald's Corporation, May 2001. "McDonald's French Fry Facts", McDonald's Corporation, May 2001."confusion" was the wrong word: Quoted in Transcript, "Cla.s.s Action Suit Against McDonald's Claims Company Misleads Consumers About Fry Oil," Quoted in Transcript, "Cla.s.s Action Suit Against McDonald's Claims Company Misleads Consumers About Fry Oil," CNN News CNN News, May 3, 2001."We apologize for any confusion": The spokesman was Walt Riker, repeating a denial made on numerous occasions. Quoted in Transcript, "Cla.s.s Action Suit." See also "McDonald's Apologizes," The spokesman was Walt Riker, repeating a denial made on numerous occasions. Quoted in Transcript, "Cla.s.s Action Suit." See also "McDonald's Apologizes," Calgary Herald Calgary Herald, May 25, 2001.

280 "Thank you for contacting us": "Thank you for contacting us": Letter from Beth Petersohn, Manager, Customer Satisfaction Department, McDonald's Corporation, to Ms. Laura Strickland, May 5,1993. Letter from Beth Petersohn, Manager, Customer Satisfaction Department, McDonald's Corporation, to Ms. Laura Strickland, May 5,1993.

the fast food industry did not gain any new customers: Cited in Robert O'Brien, "Consumer Update & Industry Outlook," NPD Foodworld, March 2001. See also Milford Prewitt, "COEX Attendees Upbeat Despite Economic Cloud," Cited in Robert O'Brien, "Consumer Update & Industry Outlook," NPD Foodworld, March 2001. See also Milford Prewitt, "COEX Attendees Upbeat Despite Economic Cloud," Nation's Restaurant News Nation's Restaurant News, March 12, 2001, and Peter Romeo, "Is Fast Food Ill?", Restaurant Business Restaurant Business, April 1, 2001. Romeo, the editor of Restaurant Business Restaurant Business, subsequently spoke with me about some of the marketing challenges and economic problems that the fast food industry now confronts.not only hamburger chains, but also pizza: Cited in Robert O'Brien, "Consumer Update & Industry Outlook," NPD Foodworld, March 2001. Cited in Robert O'Brien, "Consumer Update & Industry Outlook," NPD Foodworld, March 2001.at a cost of more than $70 million: Cited in Jennifer Ordonez, "How Burger King Got Burned in the Quest to Make the Perfect Fry," Cited in Jennifer Ordonez, "How Burger King Got Burned in the Quest to Make the Perfect Fry," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 16, 2001a "K minus" program: For the details and the rationale of "K minus," see Richard Martin, "Taco Bell Accelerates 'Value' Exploration," For the details and the rationale of "K minus," see Richard Martin, "Taco Bell Accelerates 'Value' Exploration," Nation's Restaurant News Nation's Restaurant News, November 18, 1991; Ronald Henkoff, "Service is Everybody's Business," Fortune Fortune, June 27, 1994; and Tim Durnford, "Redefining Value: For Whom the Taco Bell Tolls," Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Quarterly Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Quarterly, June 1997.fell by 9 percent in the fourth quarter: Cited in Chuck Hutchcraft, "Off the Mark," Cited in Chuck Hutchcraft, "Off the Mark," Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions, May 1, 2001.

281 "We are not doing a great job": "We are not doing a great job": Quoted in Jennifer Ordonez, "Taco Bell Chief Has New Tactic: Be Like Wendy's," Quoted in Jennifer Ordonez, "Taco Bell Chief Has New Tactic: Be Like Wendy's," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, February 23, 2001.

doubts on Wall Street: For pessimistic views of McDonald's financial prospects, see Ken Kurson, "Supersize Dread: McDonald's Future is Smelling Worse Than Its Restaurants," For pessimistic views of McDonald's financial prospects, see Ken Kurson, "Supersize Dread: McDonald's Future is Smelling Worse Than Its Restaurants," Esquire Esquire, April 1, 2001, and Alby Gallun, "McDonald's Mid-life Crisis," Crain's Chicago Business Crain's Chicago Business, April 30, 2001. For a much rosier view, see Moises Naim's interview with Jack Greenberg, McDonald's CEO, "McAtlas Shrugged," Foreign Policy Foreign Policy, May 1, 2001.doubling its sales within the United States: Cited in Alby Gallun, "McDonald's Mid-life Crisis." Cited in Alby Gallun, "McDonald's Mid-life Crisis."McDonald's ranked just a couple of places: Cited in Bob Krummert, "QSR Patron Picks and Pans; American Customer Satisfaction Research Shows Customer Dissatisfaction with Fast Food Restaurants," Cited in Bob Krummert, "QSR Patron Picks and Pans; American Customer Satisfaction Research Shows Customer Dissatisfaction with Fast Food Restaurants," Restaurant Hospitality Restaurant Hospitality, April 1, 2001. The survey was conducted by the National Quality Research Center at the University of Michigan Business School. It ranked two hundred national organizations on the basis of 50,000 consumer interviews.

282 acted decisively and hired Temple Grandin: acted decisively and hired Temple Grandin: Grandin, an a.s.sociate professor of Animal Science at Colorado State University, has designed livestock handling facilities throughout the world. She gained renown for her ability to "see through the eyes" of cattle of order to minimize the fear and stress they experience before slaughter. Her commitment to animal welfare is heartfelt and una.s.sailable. Grandin was profiled by the neurologist Oliver W. Sacks in Grandin, an a.s.sociate professor of Animal Science at Colorado State University, has designed livestock handling facilities throughout the world. She gained renown for her ability to "see through the eyes" of cattle of order to minimize the fear and stress they experience before slaughter. Her commitment to animal welfare is heartfelt and una.s.sailable. Grandin was profiled by the neurologist Oliver W. Sacks in An Anthropologist on Mars An Anthropologist on Mars (New York: Vintage Press, 1996), and has published her own memoir, (New York: Vintage Press, 1996), and has published her own memoir, Thinking in Pictures: And Other Reports from My Life with Autism Thinking in Pictures: And Other Reports from My Life with Autism (New York: Vintage Press, 1995). (New York: Vintage Press, 1995).

According to Grandin: Temple Grandin discussed McDonald's humane slaughter program with me at length. Temple Grandin discussed McDonald's humane slaughter program with me at length.the enthusiastic support of the meatpacking industry: Janet Riley, a spokeswoman for American Meat Inst.i.tute (AMI), told me that the industry has eagerly backed the new guidelines devised by Grandin. Slaughtering animals humanely is a good idea, not just for ethical reasons; it also improves the quality of the meat. The meatpacking industry much prefers a program administered by McDonald's to one administered by the USDA. McDonald's inspectors are employed by meatpacking companies; their inspection reports are not open to public scrutiny; and the names of companies that fail an inspection are not disclosed. For the AMI's resistance to greater USDA involvement in humane slaughter, see "Panel Gives Agriculture Dept. $2.5 Million," Janet Riley, a spokeswoman for American Meat Inst.i.tute (AMI), told me that the industry has eagerly backed the new guidelines devised by Grandin. Slaughtering animals humanely is a good idea, not just for ethical reasons; it also improves the quality of the meat. The meatpacking industry much prefers a program administered by McDonald's to one administered by the USDA. McDonald's inspectors are employed by meatpacking companies; their inspection reports are not open to public scrutiny; and the names of companies that fail an inspection are not disclosed. For the AMI's resistance to greater USDA involvement in humane slaughter, see "Panel Gives Agriculture Dept. $2.5 Million," AP Online AP Online, July 17, 2001.I visited meatpacking communities in Texas: Our photoessay, "The Most Dangerous Job in America," appeared in Our photoessay, "The Most Dangerous Job in America," appeared in Mother Jones Mother Jones, July/August 2001.

283 forever surrendering the right to sue: forever surrendering the right to sue: See Tad Fowler, "In the Matter of Michael Glover vs. IBP, Inc. Workplace Injury Settlement Program, Judgement in Arbitration," p. 3. The ability of workers to sign away their common law rights has been upheld by the Texas Supreme Court, which has given precedence to the sanct.i.ty of contracts. See Supreme Court of Texas, See Tad Fowler, "In the Matter of Michael Glover vs. IBP, Inc. Workplace Injury Settlement Program, Judgement in Arbitration," p. 3. The ability of workers to sign away their common law rights has been upheld by the Texas Supreme Court, which has given precedence to the sanct.i.ty of contracts. See Supreme Court of Texas, Lawrence v. CDB Services, Lambert v. Affiliated Foods, Inc. Lawrence v. CDB Services, Lambert v. Affiliated Foods, Inc., Nos. 000142, 000201, March 29, 2001.

control over the job-related medical treatment: See "Workplace Injury Settlement Program - Texas," IBP, p. 7. See "Workplace Injury Settlement Program - Texas," IBP, p. 7.The Texas Supreme Court has ruled: According to the court's perverse logic, companies partic.i.p.ating in the worker's comp system are not allowed to fire injured workers - but companies who leave the system are free to do so. See Supreme Court of Texas, According to the court's perverse logic, companies partic.i.p.ating in the worker's comp system are not allowed to fire injured workers - but companies who leave the system are free to do so. See Supreme Court of Texas, Mexican Railway Company v. Bouchet Mexican Railway Company v. Bouchet, No. 960194, February 13, 1998.When Lonita Leal's right hand was mangled: See Karen Olsson, "Chain of Casualties: How an Amarillo Beef Packing Plant Disposes of Injured Workers," See Karen Olsson, "Chain of Casualties: How an Amarillo Beef Packing Plant Disposes of Injured Workers," Texas Observer Texas Observer, May 22, 1998.When Duane Mullin had both hands: See ibid. See ibid.the world's biggest and most powerful meatpacking firm: See Kelly P. Kissel, "Tyson, IBP Agree to Terms on ChickenBeef Merger," See Kelly P. Kissel, "Tyson, IBP Agree to Terms on ChickenBeef Merger," AP AP, June 27, 2001, and Bill Hord, "Livestock Producers 'Feel the Squeeze' of TysonIBP Deal," Omaha World-Herald Omaha World-Herald, January 3, 2001.$1.7 billion in debt: Cited in Kelly P. Kissel, "Tyson, IBP Agree to Terms on ChickenBeef Merger," Cited in Kelly P. Kissel, "Tyson, IBP Agree to Terms on ChickenBeef Merger," AP AP, June 27, 2001.

284 "If McDonald's is requiring something": "If McDonald's is requiring something": Quoted in Brasher, "McDonald's Forcing Beef Industry," Quoted in Brasher, "McDonald's Forcing Beef Industry," a.s.sociated Press a.s.sociated Press, March 13, 2001.

about a hundred people: As of August 31, 2001, the number of confirmed and probable cases of vCJD in the United Kingdom had reached 106. See "CJD Statistics," The UK Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease Surveillance Unit, September 3, 2001. As of August 31, 2001, the number of confirmed and probable cases of vCJD in the United Kingdom had reached 106. See "CJD Statistics," The UK Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease Surveillance Unit, September 3, 2001.Roughly the same number of people die every day: 41,611 Americans died in traffic accidents during 1999 - a rate about 114 a day. Cited in "Traffic Safety Facts 1999," National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, U.S. Department of Transportation, 2000. 41,611 Americans died in traffic accidents during 1999 - a rate about 114 a day. Cited in "Traffic Safety Facts 1999," National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, U.S. Department of Transportation, 2000.About 800,000 cattle with mad cow: This figure was cited by Professor Jeffrey Almond, a member of the United Kingdom's Spongiform Encephalopathies Advisory Committee. See Transcript, "Meeting of U.S. Transmissible Spongiform Encephalopathies Advisory Committee, Gaithersburg, Maryland, June 3, 1999." This figure was cited by Professor Jeffrey Almond, a member of the United Kingdom's Spongiform Encephalopathies Advisory Committee. See Transcript, "Meeting of U.S. Transmissible Spongiform Encephalopathies Advisory Committee, Gaithersburg, Maryland, June 3, 1999."If it takes about ten years: For discussion of vCJD's potential incubation period, and the implications for public health, see Charles Arthur, "BSE infection: This is a New Disease and We Are Entering the Unknown," For discussion of vCJD's potential incubation period, and the implications for public health, see Charles Arthur, "BSE infection: This is a New Disease and We Are Entering the Unknown," Independent Independent, April 29, 2000; Dorothy Bonn, "Healthy carriers could increase vCJD risk," The Lancet The Lancet, September 2, 2000; Charles Arthur, "CJD Threat Could Last for 40 Years, Says Expert," Independent Independent, November 16, 2000; and David Derbys.h.i.+re, "Scientists Fear Second Round of Human BSE," Daily Telegraph Daily Telegraph, May 16, 2001. For a good review of the risk to human health, see Paul Brown, Robert G. Will, Raymond Bradley, David M. Asher, and Linda Detwiler, "Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy and Variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease: Background, Evolution, and Current Concerns," Emerging Infectious Diseases Emerging Infectious Diseases, vol. 7, no. 1, JanuaryFebruary, 2001.

285 much as Three Mile Island and Chern.o.byl: much as Three Mile Island and Chern.o.byl: Nicols Fox astutely made this a.n.a.logy back in 1997. See Nicols Fox, Nicols Fox astutely made this a.n.a.logy back in 1997. See Nicols Fox, Spoiled Spoiled (New York: Basic Books, 1997), p. 331. (New York: Basic Books, 1997), p. 331.

British agricultural officials were concerned: See Volume I, "Findings and Conclusions, Section 3, The Early Years, 198688," paragraphs 22334, See Volume I, "Findings and Conclusions, Section 3, The Early Years, 198688," paragraphs 22334, The BSE Inquiry: The Report The BSE Inquiry: The Report, October 2000.a leading manufacturer of pet foods: The story of how the British pet food industry took the lead in defending the public from BSE can be found in Volume 5, "Animal Health, 198996, Section 3, Introduction of the Animal s...o...b..n," paragraphs 3.13.26, The story of how the British pet food industry took the lead in defending the public from BSE can be found in Volume 5, "Animal Health, 198996, Section 3, Introduction of the Animal s...o...b..n," paragraphs 3.13.26, The BSE Inquiry: The Report The BSE Inquiry: The Report; Volume 6, "Human Health, 198996, Section 3, Introduction of the Ban on Specified Bovine Offal," paragraphs 3.913.203, ibid.; and Anthony Bevins, "How We Had to Rely on Pedigree Chum Firm for CJD Advice," Express Express, October 27, 2000.a good idea: See Volume 6, "Human Health, 198996, Section 3, Introduction of the Ban on Specified Bovine Offal," paragraph 3.201, See Volume 6, "Human Health, 198996, Section 3, Introduction of the Ban on Specified Bovine Offal," paragraph 3.201, The BSE Inquiry: The Report. some of the nation's cheapest meats: The BSE Inquiry: The Report. some of the nation's cheapest meats: See Judy Jones, "McDonald's Takes British out of Burgers', See Judy Jones, "McDonald's Takes British out of Burgers', Observer Observer, March 24, 1996.The death of "Mad Max": See Allison Pearson, "How We Swallowed the BSE Lie", See Allison Pearson, "How We Swallowed the BSE Lie", Evening Standard Evening Standard, October 4, 2000, and Kamal Ahmed, Antony Barnett, and Stuart Miller, "Focus: BSE: How the Government Betrayed the People", Observer Observer, October 29, 2000."constantly sought to prevent or delay": Quoted in Le Monde, "Time to Make Some Radical Reforms in the Food Industry," Quoted in Le Monde, "Time to Make Some Radical Reforms in the Food Industry," Manchester Guardian Weekly Manchester Guardian Weekly, May 30, 2001.

286 "might have had an adverse effect": "might have had an adverse effect": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid.

about 150 million pounds of the stuff: In 1989 Great Britain exported roughly 15,000 tons of potentially tainted feed, and exported an additional 8,500 to 9,000 tons per year until 1996. That adds up to roughly 75,000 tons over the eight-year period. Cited in Steve Stecklow, "U.K.'s Exports May Have Expanded the Boundaries of Mad Cow Disease', In 1989 Great Britain exported roughly 15,000 tons of potentially tainted feed, and exported an additional 8,500 to 9,000 tons per year until 1996. That adds up to roughly 75,000 tons over the eight-year period. Cited in Steve Stecklow, "U.K.'s Exports May Have Expanded the Boundaries of Mad Cow Disease', Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 23, 2001.blocked publication of the EU report: See Peter Hadfield, "Ministry Bungle puts j.a.pan at risk of BSE," See Peter Hadfield, "Ministry Bungle puts j.a.pan at risk of BSE," Sunday Telegraph Sunday Telegraph, September 23, 2001."disposed of": See ibid. See ibid.about a billion pounds of rendered cattle: Cited in Steve Secklow, "In Battling Mad Cow, Britain Sp.a.w.ns Heaps of Pulverized Cattle," Cited in Steve Secklow, "In Battling Mad Cow, Britain Sp.a.w.ns Heaps of Pulverized Cattle," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, January 8, 2001.generates electricity by burning cattle: See Philip Pullela, "Mad Cow Scare on Front Burner around Europe," See Philip Pullela, "Mad Cow Scare on Front Burner around Europe," Reuters Reuters, January 22, 2001.

287 BSE may easily cross the species barrier: BSE may easily cross the species barrier: See Bonn, "Healthy Carriers," See Bonn, "Healthy Carriers," The Lancet The Lancet, and Barry James, "'Mad Cow' Disease in Pigs and Sheep?" International Herald Tribune International Herald Tribune, August 31, 2000.

"All cannibalistic recycling": Quoted in Jonathon Leake, "New BSE Outbreak Linked to Blood in Feed," Quoted in Jonathon Leake, "New BSE Outbreak Linked to Blood in Feed," Sunday Times Sunday Times, September 24, 2001.at least 60,000 other cattle: This figure was cited by Professor Jeffrey Almond, Transcript, "U.S. TSE Committee." This figure was cited by Professor Jeffrey Almond, Transcript, "U.S. TSE Committee.""If you don't look": Quoted in John S. Long, "Nation Isn't Doing Enough to Detect Mad Cow Disease, CWRU Experts Say," Quoted in John S. Long, "Nation Isn't Doing Enough to Detect Mad Cow Disease, CWRU Experts Say," Plain Dealer Plain Dealer, May 6, 2001.approximately 375 million cattle: Since 1990, about 34 million cattle have been slaughtered each year in the United States. See "The Texas Blues," Since 1990, about 34 million cattle have been slaughtered each year in the United States. See "The Texas Blues," Leather Leather, August 1998.about 15,000 of them were tested for mad cow: See Megan Mulholland, "Wisconsin-Based Renderer's President Stands Firm on Safety of U.S. Feed," See Megan Mulholland, "Wisconsin-Based Renderer's President Stands Firm on Safety of U.S. Feed," Post Crescent Post Crescent, May 20, 2001.a cattle herd roughly one-thirtieth the size: Belgium has about 3 million cattle; the United States has about 100 million. See Terry Downs, "Mad Cow Disease Testing Reveals Widespread Infection in Europe," Belgium has about 3 million cattle; the United States has about 100 million. See Terry Downs, "Mad Cow Disease Testing Reveals Widespread Infection in Europe," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, January 22, 2001.leading American manufacturers promise: See Tim Phillips, "Are Pets Being Reccled into Pet Food?" See Tim Phillips, "Are Pets Being Reccled into Pet Food?" Petfood Industry Petfood Industry, March/Aril 1992.40,000 pounds of dead dogs and dead cats: Cited in Patrick White, "Canada Pet Food Firm Turns Back on Dog and Cat Meat," Reuters Reuters, June 5, 2001."This food is healthy and good": Quoted in ibid. Quoted in ibid.

288 the most common source of animal protein in poultry feed: the most common source of animal protein in poultry feed: See Daniel Rosenberg, "Mad Cow Disease Concern Could Change Chicken Feed', See Daniel Rosenberg, "Mad Cow Disease Concern Could Change Chicken Feed', Wisconsin State Journal Wisconsin State Journal, May 5, 2001.

processes about 10 million pounds of chicken parts: Cited in "Multi-million Dollar Facility to Help Tyson Ensure That Nothing Goes to Waste'" Cited in "Multi-million Dollar Facility to Help Tyson Ensure That Nothing Goes to Waste'" M2 Presswire M2 Presswire, June 7, 1996.the export needs of Nestle: See John Vidal and Peter Hethrington, "Foot-and-Mouth Crisis: Food Lobby Forced PM into U-Turn on Plan for Vaccination," See John Vidal and Peter Hethrington, "Foot-and-Mouth Crisis: Food Lobby Forced PM into U-Turn on Plan for Vaccination," Guardian Guardian, September 8, 2001.supplied the milk for McDonald's milkshakes: Cited in Amanda Hall, "Whole-meal Haskins: Chris Haskins, Maverick of Northern Foods and Express Dairies, Mixes a Healthy Serving of Politics with His Business," Sunday Telegraph Sunday Telegraph, June 14,1998.

289 20 percent of its farmland: 20 percent of its farmland: Cited in Paul Geitner, "Scare Helps Europe's Organic Food," Cited in Paul Geitner, "Scare Helps Europe's Organic Food," AP Online AP Online, March 19, 2001.

"Things will no longer be": Quoted in Michael Adler, "Greens Trumpet Their New Star, Agriculture Minister Kuenast," Quoted in Michael Adler, "Greens Trumpet Their New Star, Agriculture Minister Kuenast," Agence France Presse Agence France Presse, March 11, 2001."Our Cows should get only water": Quoted in "Germany Plans Radical Farm Reform - Food Must Be As Pure As Beer, Says Government," Quoted in "Germany Plans Radical Farm Reform - Food Must Be As Pure As Beer, Says Government," Deutsche Presse-Agentur Deutsche Presse-Agentur, February 8, 2001.

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