Archeological Investigations Part 19

MORRELL CAVE.--On the south side of the Holston River, 2 miles east of Bluff City, lies the farm of E.S. Worley. Except for a narrow strip of river bottom land, the surface is broken and rocky, the highest point being some 400 feet above the stream. Beginning near the brow of the river hill the central portion of the farm is in a depression whose very irregular rim or watershed surrounds an area of more than 100 acres. All the water that falls within this s.p.a.ce drains into a sink hole the bottom of which is but little above flood stage of the Holston. On the south side of this sink is a vertical bluff 120 feet high, from whose foot emerges a stream that after a winding course of 50 or 60 yards disappears in a small opening on the east side of the sink hole, and finally comes to the surface at the foot of the hill, near the river. Its volume is sufficient, even in time of severest drought, to turn the undershot wheel of a large mill. The course of the stream above the point where it is first visible is through a cave which has been traced to the foot of the Holston Mountains, 3 miles away, and there are many unexplored branches. Chambers are known with a cross measure of 100 feet or more, and some of them have a height nearly as great. Stalact.i.tes and stalagmites, some of them possessing unusual size and beauty, are abundant.

The sink hole is due to the falling in of the roof of the cave, which could no doubt be followed to the river if it were free from obstructions in this direction.

North of west from the mouth of the cave is another opening, partly in the same strata but 40 feet higher, the dip of the rock being 10 or 12 degrees to the southeast. This was so blocked with talus which had fallen from the cliff and washed down the side of the sink hole that it was necessary to creep nearly 40 feet from the entrance, down a moderate slope, before coming to a point where it was possible to stand upright. From here progress to the junction of the two caves, about half a mile from the entrance, is easy except where fallen rocks interfere somewhat.

Early in the Civil War a large amount of saltpeter was manufactured here. A dam was constructed just within the mouth of the main cave, and in the pool thus formed boats were used to transport the material from the interior. The workmen not required for handling the craft usually preferred to walk through the upper cave to the place where the earth was procured.

The combination of natural features at this place is unusually favorable to aboriginal habitation. The main cave is excluded from consideration by reason of the stream filling it from wall to wall after very heavy rains. The upper cave, however, showed, beyond the debris choking the entrance, a level floor, c.u.mbered, it is true, by fallen rocks, but apparently quite suitable for a dwelling place were these removed. Although opening toward the north, its position so far below the summits of the surrounding hills protects it from winter winds. The creek a.s.sures an ample supply of clear cold water.

Mountains, refuge for game, are in sight in various directions, while the Holston River is less than a quarter of a mile away.

In order to remove the debris a point 3 feet below the lowest spot on the floor was selected on the slope outside. From here a trench was carried in on a level, the additional depth being taken to facilitate clearing away all material that had acc.u.mulated inside the cavern in comparatively recent time, and thus lighten the task of deeper excavations should these be required. The trench needed to be only wide enough at the bottom to allow room for running a wheelbarrow, but owing to the great amount of broken rock, loosely held together by a small quant.i.ty of earth, the sides continually gave way, so that by the time it was safe to pa.s.s through the trench was 25 feet wide at the top and 24 feet deep at the mouth of the cave. The rocks were of every size from small pebbles to blocks weighing more than a ton each.

Nothing whatever of artificial character, not even a flint chip or fragment of charcoal, was unearthed until at a point 4 feet inside the farthest projecting stratum of the roof. Here was found a prehistoric stone wall whose outer side and top had been entirely concealed by debris. On the inner side the upper portion was visible, owing to the fact that the owner had gathered a quant.i.ty of loose stones to construct a wall farther down the slope. Previous to this the ancient wall was entirely covered by the detritus, and even after this partial exposure its true nature was not suspected. It was about 6 feet high, built up of rocks of various sizes and shapes loosely fitted together, earth from the outside surface being used to level up in places where the stones would not bind properly. The largest rock in the top layer weighed about 800 pounds.

The horizontal distance between the top of the wall as it was when cleared off and the corresponding portion of the cave roof was 4 feet; to the roof directly above it, about 2 feet. Apparently it had at one time entirely closed the entrance; at the western end where it ab.u.t.ted against the solid rock the upper portion was firmly consolidated by travertine. Directly above it, nearly 2 feet higher, a slab and some small irregular fragments were securely attached to the side and roof by the same agency. A crevice in the bedrock just at the end of the artificial wall contained several wagonloads of small rocks which had been thrown into it. These also were united into a solid ma.s.s by the travertine, all of which had been deposited by water flowing through the crevice. It does not follow that the wall was ever higher toward the opposite end than at this time. In the centuries that have elapsed since it was put up, the roof at the front of the cave, being rather thin-bedded, may have disintegrated. It was not possible to uncover the wall in shape for ill.u.s.trating; portions of it continually crumbled as the looser material piled against it was removed.

From the wall inward the foreign material piled against the west side of the cave was composed almost entirely of small rocks, with scarcely any earth, and so compactly bound with travertine and stalagmite as to resist all attempts to remove it by ordinary means. On the east side--the left as the cave is entered--there was a great variation in the size of the stones; they were intermixed with much loose dry earth, and there was scarcely any "drip-formation" in the ma.s.s. The removal of all this disclosed a projection of solid rock forming a shelf from 8 to 12 feet wide, whose top was about 2 feet higher than the bottom of our trench. About 20 feet from the ancient wall the trench reached the original bottom of the cave as the latter was left by the stream to which its origin was due. This was the tough red or yellow clay, filled with water-worn stones such as appear in all gullies or ravines in this region. It contained a small quant.i.ty of stalagmitic material here and there and gradually rose until at 20 feet farther, or 40 feet from the old wall, it terminated against solid bedrock, reaching across the cave, the entire width of which at this point was 26 feet. The shelf on the left belonged to the same stratum.

This brought the work to the terminus that had been the aim from the first, namely, the lowest level of the floor, which was thus shown to be only a foot above the solid rock instead of at least 10 or 12 feet as the general appearance of the entrance and its surroundings had indicated. It was completely cleaned off as far as this was possible, but within 3 feet of the end of the trench began a ma.s.s several feet in thickness of fragmentary rocks of every size up to 20 tons or more which had fallen from the roof and were bound together by stalagmite.

Altogether, more than 300 cubic yards of material were removed. The workmen had been carefully instructed as to what the search was for, and kept a close lookout, as evidenced by the very small objects they were continually offering for inspection. It is safe to say that not a spadeful of earth missed scrutiny; but, aside from the artificial wall, the only traces of human presence were three valves of mussels, a turkey bone rudely pointed for use as a perforator, and three or four bones which seem to have been subjected to fire. Not a chip of flint or other stone showing work, no ashes or charcoal, not a piece of pottery, were discovered. If aboriginal burials were made in the cave--and the wall is almost definite proof of such fact--they are either on the floor under stalagmite or in crevices now concealed by fallen rocks.

Numerous small fragments of animal bones were found scattered singly at all depths in the material removed. Nearly every one showed marks of the teeth of rodents. According to Prof. F.A. Lucas, of the National Museum, they all belong to modern species except one tooth, which is that of the cave tapir, and (possibly) the jaw of an otter.

BLEDSOE COUNTY

COLLEGE CAVE.--About three-fourths of a mile west from the old Sequatchie College is a cave which was described as the largest in the county, and as the only one in which people might ever have lived. The opening is about 5 feet wide and 4 feet high; and from it comes a stream sufficient to run a mill.

No other caves could be located in this county or in the Sequatchie Valley north of it.

SEQUATCHIE COUNTY

LAKEY'S CAVE.--In the foothills of the c.u.mberland Plateau, about 5 miles southeast of Dunlap, the county seat, is the largest cave in the county. A great quant.i.ty of earth and rock has acc.u.mulated in front of the entrance, washed from the mountain side over an area of several acres. Formerly most of the surface drainage carrying this down flowed into the cave, thus keeping a pa.s.sageway open through which a man could crawl. Ditches have recently been cut to turn away the water, the entrance walled up, a solid door hung, and the cave is now used for a storeroom. It was never habitable.

A mile north of the above-mentioned cave, toward Dunlap, is a cave with a very large entrance: a sort of rock-house or half dome. The floor is covered with huge rocks and a constant stream flows out. It is said that a party once entered Lakey's Cave and emerged at this one. There is no dry place in it.

PICKETT'S CAVE.--Seven miles southwest of Dunlap is a cave, described as having an ample entrance, with much room inside, perfectly dry, and opening in a cliff 20 or 30 feet above a large, never-failing spring.

The description is correct as to location, but not as to size. The opening is about 4 feet across each way, with a slight covering of earth on the floor. The cave winds like a flattened corkscrew. At no place near enough to the mouth for a glimmer of light to penetrate is the roof more than 5 feet above the floor or the side walls more than 5 feet apart.

There are two recesses in the cliff on the opposite side of the little creek formed by the spring. They are 40 to 50 feet above the water, each with an irregular floor of 20 by 30 feet under shelter of the rock. No solid rock is visible in front of them, but a projecting ledge, which seems continuous, appears on either side about 6 feet below the present average level of the floor; and this is probably the depth of acc.u.mulation at the front. It may be less toward the rear.

The cavities are in a stratum which is somewhat sh.e.l.ly and crumbles easily.

HIXSON'S CAVE.--Six miles northeast of Dunlap is a cave said to be large, accessible, dry, and well suited for occupancy. It is on the side of Walden's ridge, 400 feet or more above the base, a mile from water, and with an opening in the solid rock that can not be entered except on hands and knees. By the time one can straighten up he is in absolute darkness.

LAND COMPANY'S CAVE.--This is 7 miles northeast of Dunlap. To enter, one must crawl between the rock front and the detritus, descending 10 or 12 feet. The floor is fairly level, where it can be found, but is nearly hidden from sight by rocks of all sizes, over and between which it is necessary to scramble almost from the starting point.

HENSON'S CAVE.--This cave, 9 or 10 miles northeast from Dunlap, and perhaps in Bledsoe County, is somewhere on Racc.o.o.n Mountains, near the head of a valley up which a mountain road winds along in the bed of a stream. It is said to have a dry dirt floor, with an entrance through which one must crawl. After driving until the horses were tired out and being a.s.sured at several scattered cabins that it was "jest a leetle mite furder up thar," search for it was abandoned.

GRUNDY COUNTY

HUBLIN'S OR BAT CAVE.--Numerous caves and rock-shelters are reported in the region about Beersheba Springs. The shelters seem to be shallow with comparatively little earth on the floor. Of the caves, the description given of all but the one named was such as to show them not worth visiting. It is about 10 miles northwest of the springs. Its course is approximately parallel with the mountain ridge, pa.s.sing under two low foothills or spurs separated by a ravine. When the stream flowing through the latter had cut its channel down to the top of the cave it poured into the hole it had worn. Frost and the natural erosion have made an opening more than 60 feet long. Both parts of the cave remain open, being too large at this point to become choked by the small amount of material which the brook had left as a roof. In some places, so far as it was examined, the ceiling is 50 feet or more above the rocks covering the floor; and one end, that into which the ravine drains, has a continuous and rather steep descent, along the natural dip, as far as it could be followed. Where the exploration ended logs, drift, brush, etc., piled 10 or 12 feet high against huge rocks that had tumbled down, proved a current strong enough to wash away any deposits that may ever have existed; consequently the only earth in this end was that brought by floods.

The other end of the cave is large, with an entrance of such size that small print could easily be read 100 feet from the front if the broad fence across it were removed. This fence was made to close the cave against changes of temperature and also against marauders, it having been used until lately as a storage room for fruit, potatoes, etc.

During the Civil War it was worked for saltpeter. All the earth, down to the rock floor, was removed, even in crevices only wide enough for a man to squeeze through. An incline was built so that horses could be brought into the cave, and no earth now remains within reach of daylight. The rock floor is almost as clean as if swept.

Their exhaustive digging extended for about 200 yards from the entrance. The "face" of the earth is here about 15 feet high; for some reason, which could not be learned, the miners continued their work from here by means of a tunnel 4 or 5 feet high and wide, leaving a floor of earth, and a covering of the same nearly 6 feet thick. This tunnel was not followed.

Near the entrance a crevice barely wide enough for a man to walk in and in some places only 4 feet high turns off toward the left and holds practically the same size for about 100 yards. Here it becomes larger and higher. Earth has been carried out of this and its narrow branches wherever there is room to use a shovel. In a large chamber 200 yards from the front, at the end of the crevice, much digging was done; the "face" left is 13 or 14 feet high.

As far as the diggers went, there is nothing left to explore. Beyond that it is not probable any remains can be found, as it is totally dark long before any remaining earth is reached.

FRANKLIN COUNTY

Several caves were reported in the vicinity of Sewanee and Monteagle.

They are objects of curiosity to students and summer residents who frequently visit and make tours through them. They have thus acquired a fame much beyond what is justified by their real interest. They seem to be wet, or with contracted entrances and front chambers, or difficult of access, and, so far as could be judged by the descriptions given, none of them is worth examining.

MARION COUNTY

ACCOUNT'S CAVES.--There are two of these, both with high and large openings, on the right bank of the Tennessee, 2 miles above Sh.e.l.lmound or Nickajack. One is in the face of the bluff, the entrance 50 feet above the river bottom land. Huge rocks lie in front and over nearly all the floor. Surface water flows in at the entrance and after winding its crooked way among the rocks sinks at a point 25 or 30 feet below the top of the debris in front of the entrance. This indicates an open way to the river, so the bottom of the cave is probably down nearly or quite to the water level.

The second cave is 100 yards above the first. A little stream, whose head is in a valley, nearly a mile away, flows around the foot of the bluff and into the mouth of the cave. When the Tennessee rises to flood height the backwater comes into the bed of this stream through the cave before submerging the low ridge between it and the river.

CALDWELL'S CAVE.--This is on the right bank of the Sequatchie River, a mile above its junction with the Tennessee. It is said that formerly a man could walk into it easily for 20 or 30 feet and then crawl 50 or 60 feet farther. This is probably an error of memory. By stooping one can now go in about 10 feet from the edge of the roof, and with a pole feel where the floor and roof come together, nowhere more than 10 or 12 feet beyond. It is said, also, that this acc.u.mulation results from throwing in earth to prevent foxes from having a den in the cave. A small hole might thus be closed, but it is too much to believe that the people now living around here would carry in many hundred cubic yards of earth for any such purpose.

Human bones are reported unearthed near the surface; at least bones of some sort were found which the discoverers supposed were human.

The entrance to the cave is more than 25 feet in width, and about 25 feet above the flood plain of the Sequatchie, or only 15 feet above extreme high water. It is in the only exposure of rock for nearly half a mile along the bluff. On either side of the opening the walls are solid, down to the alluvial earth, but in front of the cavity only detritus can be seen from top to bottom. For this reason it is improbable that any solid bottom could be found above the level of the river. Much of the stone weathers out in small fragments, and the process of disintegration is going on continually, as shown by the fresh appearance of the sheltered fragments. How rapid or how regular it may have been in former time is impossible to guess, so that excavation, to be of any value, would have to begin at the bottom of the slope, with the knowledge that the original floor of the cave may be still lower.

NICKAJACK CAVE.--This is the largest and most widely known cave in Tennessee. It is half a mile from and within plain sight of the railway station of Sh.e.l.lmound, 20 miles west of Chattanooga. The entrance is fully 100 feet wide and 40 feet high; a short distance within the cave enlarges, a little farther it contracts somewhat.

Daylight penetrates, in spite of curves and immense piles of debris, for more than 500 feet. It has been a resort from time out of mind; first, for Indians and pioneers, then for refugees, now for various social gatherings.

All the earth in sight has been worked for saltpeter, leached, and thrown aside. A vastly greater quant.i.ty than now remains has been washed out of the cave by Nickajack Creek, which always has some flowing water and in wet weather rises 5 or 6 feet. Long bridges are required where the highway and railroad cross it.

It takes its name from the Nickajack Indians, who once dwelt here. The field in front is strewn with flint chips and other indications of aboriginal settlement.

There is nothing in the cave to dig for. The saltpeter miners moved all the earth they could reach, while the immense rocks and the creek make any further excavations impossible.

HAMILTON COUNTY

There are many caves in the vicinity of Chattanooga, but all that were visited possess some feature which makes examination appear useless.

Most of them have small, inconvenient entrances; others are subject to overflow or have running water in them. None could be heard of in which conditions were better.