How to Enjoy Paris in 1842 Part 8

Amongst the various articles of the above description, none perhaps occupy a more prominent position for beauty, taste, and ingenuity, than the extraordinary variety displayed in what is termed fancy stationary, the fabrication of which is now extended to such a degree, as to have become an important branch of the commerce of Paris. Its introduction is but of recent date, as in the reign of Charles X all the paper required for notes, letters, dispatches, etc., was procured from England, on account of its extreme superiority over that of France; the Court never using any other, the example was followed not only by the major part of the French n.o.bility, but by all foreigners of distinction who happened to be sojourning at Paris, hence the importation of paper from England was to a considerable amount. But when Louis Philippe came to the throne, he with his usual policy observed, that paper of French manufacture was good enough for his purposes, it was therefore adopted at the Court, and the n.o.blesse and gentry, following in the same line, that encouragement was afforded to their countrymen, that engendered the idea of rendering their own paper so tasteful and elegant that now the affair is quite reversed, and England takes from France an immense quant.i.ty of this beautiful manufacture, which employs even artists of talent for designing the elegant and fanciful devices which ornament their envelopes, with their enclosures of various sizes and forms, in which the arts of drawing, painting, gilding, stamping, etc., combine to render them so pretty and so gay, that one feels loath to destroy any of these ornamental epistles, however trifling their import; the subjects of the devices are as various as those which they are intended to ill.u.s.trate, history, the heathen mythology, religion, friends.h.i.+p, a more tender pa.s.sion, etc., are all allegorically or emblematically represented, in the fancy stationary, offering the writer the means of choosing a subject consistent with the text of his letter, as an invitation to dinner is designated by paintings of pheasants, game, etc., to a _soiree dansante_, the note is adorned by couples waltzing, etc., to a whist party, the cards and players are introduced, and if to tea, the cups and saucers of gilded and glowing hue, bedeck the gay margin; so that before a word is written in the letter, it foretells its errand.

There are very many who have gradually contributed their talents to this branch of industry, but it is M. Marion who may be considered the inventor, he having availed himself with the most effect of their abilities, and concentrated their respective merits, in which he has displayed much perseverance, taste, and judgment, as also in the manner in which he has organised this branch of commerce, and promoted its extension. At his establishment at No. 14, Cite-Bergere, will be found a most extensive a.s.sortment of fancy stationary, comprehending every description of variety that the most fertile imagination could depict, the prices of ordinary paper commencing at the very humble price of six sheets for a sou, and according to the degree that it is ornamented, gradually rising to 25 francs a sheet. M. Marion has also an establishment in London, at No. 19, Mortimer Street, Cavendish Square, exactly on a similar plan as that in Paris, containing an equal variety of specimens of this new branch of art.

When the visiter has a half hour to spare, he would not find it thrown away in visiting the establishment of Madame Merckel, she having found the means of applying the phosphorus and chemical matches, which she has invented, to such a number of purposes, and of introducing them in so curious and ingenious a manner into divers articles, calculated both for utility and ornament, that her manufactory might be considered quite a little museum; amongst a variety of pretty things, I was first struck with a time-piece which acts as an alarum, and not only answers the purpose of awakening you at any hour which you may desire, but a little figure representing a magician, at the instant strikes a magic mirror, by which means the taper he holds is ignited, and with all possible grace, he presents you with a light just as you open your eyes. A night lamp next attracted me, which represented Mount Vesuvius, and the means by which it is lighted, proceeds from an enormous dragon emitting fire from his throat; this article is equally useful as a paper press.

Another night lamp I found particularly elegant, though perfectly simple, consisting merely of a gilded branch, gracefully carved into a sort of festoon, from which was suspended a little lamp of most cla.s.sic form. The inkstands consist of an indescribable variety, displaying all kinds of contrivances, some so portable as easily to go into the pocket, and containing instantaneous light on touching a spring, with pens, ink, seal and wax. Amongst the endless number of paper presses is one with a blacksmith, who, when light is required, strikes the anvil and fire appears; abundance of cigar stands with matches are arranged after a variety of whimsical methods, some of them very tasteful, and having quite an ornamental effect. Fortunately, Madame Merckel has in a great degree met with the reward her ingenuity merits, receiving the greatest encouragement from the public, and not only having had a patent granted her to protect her inventions, but she has also been presented with medals from three scientific Societies. As her prices are as various as the objects are numerous, every purse may be accommodated, as there are some as low as a sou, whilst there are others which rise as high as twenty pounds, the charge elevating according to the degree of ornament or utility. It appears surprising that a business which was not known until within the last few years should have risen to such importance, as Madame Merckel not only transmits her merchandise to every town in France, but also to the princ.i.p.al cities throughout Europe. The manufactory is No. 24, Rue du Bouloi, in the Cour des Fermes; there is besides a similar establishment in London, at No. 30, Edmund Place, Aldersgate Street, which is entirely furnished by Madame Merckel, possessing the same varied a.s.sortment, and undertaking to execute the same extent of supply.

How very simple are some descriptions of inventions, and how very simple one is apt to think one's self in not having before thought of that which appears so trifling and easy when once known. So it is with a sort of portable desk, invented by M. Tachet, for which he has procured a patent; it needs no table nor any kind of support, as the student places it under him, and his own weight keeps it perfectly firm and steady; the plane (on which he writes or draws) being attached to the part on which he sits, rises before him, capable of accommodating itself to such elevation as may be desired; its princ.i.p.al utility is for sketching from nature, but as females could not make use of this desk in the same manner as men, M. Tachet has also such as are adapted to their accommodation, the base lying on the lap, and fastened by a band round the waist, which keeps it perfectly firm. M. Tachet has also devoted much time and attention in forming a collection of angular and carved pieces of wood, shaped and finished with extreme neatness, describing almost every form that can well be imagined, and composed of such wood as has been so well seasoned that it can never warp, either ebony, box, pear-tree, or indeed of every different country which produces the hardest woods; they are particularly used by engineers and architects, for drawing plans or elevations of buildings, as every curve or angle of any dimensions which can be required, may be traced by these curved and angular rulers. In French, on account of the form resembling that of a pistol, the curved pieces are called _pistolet_, which comprehends a complete set, and great demands for them come from England. At the establishment of M. Tachet will also be found almost every article that is required by the artist, and it is in fact the only house in Paris where there is any certainty of procuring _real English_ colours, as there are so many counterfeits of them exposed in almost all the colour-shops in Paris, with the names and arms upon them of some of the most eminent English colour manufacturers. But I can a.s.sure my countrymen that those they obtain from M. Tachet are genuine, and that they may deal with him in the same confidence as they would with what we call a true Englishman; he has likewise a most complete collection of mathematical instruments; his shop is situated at No. 274, Rue St.

Honore, at the bottom of the court-yard, and although it has not so brilliant an appearance as many establishments of the same nature, it is not the worse for its quiet exterior, but on the contrary, the same articles will be found with him at a more moderate charge than they ever can be procured of his das.h.i.+ng rivals.

Another branch of industry which has risen into extreme importance latterly is that of producing such exquisitely beautiful objects in cut gla.s.s, for which the establishment of Messrs. Lahoche-Boin and Comp. has for many years been celebrated, and ever conspicuous on account of its gla.s.s staircase, but I should be afraid to trust myself with beginning to describe the mult.i.tude of tasteful and elegant articles a.s.sembled in this exhibition (for it is really much more worthy of being so called than many that bear the name), lest I should be inveigled into too much prolixity. Into many of their richly wrought services of gla.s.s, gold is so happily introduced, that the two brilliant substances seem to sparkle in rivalry of each other, and the deeper tone of bronze sometimes lends its aid and heightens the effect of both. Gla.s.s is now appropriated to a variety of purposes, formerly never thought of, as bal.u.s.trades, the handles of locks and plates to doors, instead of bra.s.s, and a number of other objects; indeed from this establishment there is always emanating something new, and for the beauty of the works which they displayed at a national exhibition of specimens of art and industry, they were awarded the gold medal. Amongst other articles which attract the attention in their splendid collection, are some of the most magnificent china vases, painted by talented artists in that department, also services of Sevres porcelain for the table, in the taste of times past; others of gla.s.s, gilded and elaborately carved, which style was also much in vogue with our ancestors; some likewise of a more simple description but always possessing a degree of elegance which excites admiration. The proprietors of this concern are merchants of respectability, and besides furnis.h.i.+ng the Royal Family of France, and several of the courts of Europe, they have transactions with most parts of the world, charging themselves with the execution of orders for any country, and requiring the remuneration of a very moderate commission.

The establishment of Messrs. Lahoche-Boin and Comp. is at Nos. 152, 153, Palais-Royal, and the carriage entrance, No. 19, Rue de Valois. This is one of those houses in Paris (of which doubtless there are many) where the stranger may feel every confidence that he will meet with none but the most honourable treatment.

For those of my countrymen who like to proceed to the fountain head, and obtain articles from the manufacturer himself, instead of purchasing them of the shopkeeper who vends them at a higher price, I would recommend a visit to the establishment of M. Vincent, which is in fact like a little town, the number of warehouses, workshops, offices, etc., on the premises, amounting to no less than 84. In this manufactory an endless variety of articles are produced, consisting of every description of knick-knackery, if I may be allowed the term, as snuff-boxes, cigar-cases, memorandum books, souvenirs, bon-bon boxes, tablets, tooth-picks, card and needle-cases, pocket mirrors, housewives, paper presses, port-crayons, rulers, seals, musical snuff-boxes, etc., etc. The above articles being executed in every possible variety that can be imagined, of tortoise-sh.e.l.l, ivory, or mother of pearl, inlaid with gold and silver in the richest and most elaborate manner, miniature frames of every description, composed of fancy woods, with chased circles, metal gilt, stamped tortoise-sh.e.l.l, bronze and of every sort of material adapted for the purpose, alb.u.ms and pocket-books in great variety, dressing-cases both for ladies and gentlemen, tea caddies, work-boxes, and an infinity of articles too numerous to recapitulate, for some of which patents have been obtained. It is from this establishment that most of the showy shops in Paris, who deal in articles of the same nature, are provided, hence much economy is effected by purchasing of M. Vincent, the profit of the shopkeeper being saved by procuring the object from the manufacturer. Tradesmen who come to Paris from London, would find their interest in applying to this establishment, where they could obtain the goods they require of the descriptions stated, at considerably more advantageous terms than from other quarters. I will cite one article which will prove how very low are the charges compared to what we are accustomed to in London; the musical mechanism of a snuff-box, 10 francs (eight s.h.i.+llings) playing two airs, rising gradually in price to 90 francs, or about 3_l._ 12_s._ playing six tunes, which of course can be afterwards set in any description of box which the purchaser chooses, of gold, silver, or tortoise-sh.e.l.l, as fancy directs. All other articles sold by M. Vincent are equally reasonable. His residence is No. 4, Rue de Beauce, at the corner of the Rue de Bretagne, near the Temple, certainly not in a very desirable neighbourhood, but manufactories are seldom carried on in the most agreeable vicinities.

An art which has been recently brought to an astonis.h.i.+ng degree of perfection in Paris, is that of dyeing, cleaning, scouring, and restoring almost all descriptions of habiliments; this has been effected by M. Bonneau, but not until he had visited the princ.i.p.al manufacturing towns, and had pa.s.sed many years in studying the art scientifically, aided by persevering researches into the depths of chymistry, to which he is indebted for being able to perform that which has not until now been accomplished. I have seen instances of a soiled, faded, cashmere shawl, almost considered beyond redemption, committed to his charge, and reappear so resuscitated that the owners could scarcely believe it was the same dingy, deplorable-looking affair they had sent a fortnight before. The same power of restoring is effected upon all descriptions of satin, even that of the purest white, which, although so soiled as to be of a dirty yellow colour, is brought forth perfectly clean and with all its original l.u.s.tre; with silks, merinos, gros de Naples of the tenderest tints, the process adopted is equally successful; blonde, guipure, and all descriptions of lace, no matter how discoloured, are restored to their original whiteness. With the apparel of men, the same advantages are obtained, silk, cashmere, velvet, and other waistcoats that many would throw aside as totally spoiled, or too shabby to be worn any longer, by being sent to M. Bonneau, are returned, having the appearance of being quite new. His establishment, at No. 17, Rue Lepelletier, just facing the French Opera, is well known to many English families; but having heard so much of the wonders he performed in reviving the lost colours of the elaborate borders of ladies' cashmeres, and rendering them their pristine brilliance, I determined to visit his premises, upon which he carried on his operations, in the Rue de Bondy, No. 40. I there found everything conducted upon a most methodical system of regularity and order, each room was appropriated to its peculiar department, and heated and ventilated by a certain process, and that which does M. Bonneau much honour, is, that all is so arranged, with the utmost consideration for the health of his work-people, by taking care that they shall be kept as dry as possible, and that a proper degree of warmth and air shall be admitted into every chamber. When required, M.

Bonneau sends his men to clean furniture at persons' houses, which would be rather incommodious to remove. When any article is sent to him, the bearer is informed what day it will be completed, and is sure not to be deceived, and he has an apartment so arranged for preserving whatever is confided to him, from any injury which might be caused by moths or other insects.

Amongst those articles for which France used to depend upon England, but wherein the case is reversed by England taking from France, is that of pencil-cases, in which small pieces of lead are inserted, and emitted or withdrawn at pleasure; numbers of these formerly were sent from London and Birmingham to Paris, but recently M. Riottot has invented and obtained a patent for a pencil-case which has a little elastic tube of tempered steel placed at the end which is used, and into which the lead is inserted, and tightly held within it, so that there is no risk of breaking, either in the act of fixing in the lead, or from its afterwards shaking, the steel tube operating as a spring, retains it so firmly that it remains, even whilst writing with it, perfectly immoveable; these are arranged in gold or silver cases, more or less ornamental as may be required, and are found so infinitely more serviceable than those on the former principle, that as they are becoming more known in England, the demand for them continues to increase. The term by which they are designated, is Porte Crayon a Pince elastique; their advantages are such as tend to economy, as they are neither liable to fall out nor break, besides the convenience of their never moving about whilst one is using them, to which the previous system was constantly liable. M. Riottot has also an a.s.sortment of pens and pen-holders, either plated or of silver or gold, richly chased or simple, with a variety of seals and other articles; he likewise retains a stock of lead, properly prepared for inserting into the pencil-cases.

His address is at No. 27, Rue Phelippeaux, Pa.s.sage de la Marmite, Escalier A, completely in the quarter of Paris inhabited by the operatives, surrounded by workshops of different descriptions, not exactly calculated for very delicate ladies.

For the benefit of a little purer air, we will quit the working mechanics' rendez-vous, and take a lounge in the Palais-Royal, and as soon as we breathe a little freely, we will examine the engraved seals of M. Leteurtre-Maurisset, No. 33, Galerie d'Orleans, which, from the extreme delicacy of the execution, are objects well worth attention; his talents in this department have obtained him the distinction of being engraver to the Chamber of Deputies and to the royal museums; some of his specimens of armorial bearings, his designs for stamping impressions, in relief and heraldric devices, are extremely clever; he engraves on stones of different descriptions, with equal accuracy and on any kind of metal, as plates for visiting cards, etc., and whatever he undertakes he executes in the most perfect manner, that the nature of the work will admit. As he is attached to his profession, however trifling the order he may receive, he enters into it with the same zest as if it were of the first importance, of course it is engraving subjects for seals in which he finds the most pleasure, as it is in those that he has the greatest scope for the display of his abilities, and seldom fails to excel.

Although the progress which France has made in almost every branch of industry is most extraordinary, yet none is so striking as the advance which has been effected in cutlery, as I well remember when I first came to France, it was a common joke amongst the English, when speaking of the rarity of an object, to observe that it was as scarce as a knife in France that would cut, its appearance also was as dull as its edge, soon however their cutlery, with their ideas, began to brighten, and to sharpen; but even as recently as 1830, they were still so outshone by England, that if it was known that you were going from Paris to London, with the intention of returning, every lady asked you to bring her a pair of scissors, every man a pair of razors, and by all medical friends you were a.s.sailed to bring them over lancets or other machines for cutting and maiming human flesh; thanks to the genius, talents, and perseverance of M. Charriere, one is no longer troubled with such commissions, he having improved every description of surgical instruments to such a degree of perfection, that now many of our English surgeons provide themselves from his establishment on returning to England; not only has M. Charriere produced every variety of instrument used by our faculty, but he has invented several others, which have merited and obtained the thanks of his country, with letters and medals from several scientific societies. Even foreigners from all parts of Europe, from America, and from the East, are now becoming acquainted with the utility of his inventions, which are already well known in London and Edinburgh, and will soon be as much in demand in England as they are now in France. Some idea may be formed of how far M. Charriere has raised this branch of industry, when it is stated that but a few years since, the whole number of workmen occupied in this department was but 30 and now he alone employs 150! M. Charriere in fact possesses one quality which generally ensures success, a pa.s.sion for his art; he is not to be regarded simply as a vender of cutlery, but as one possessing a scientific knowledge of his profession, and as a mechanic of considerable talent. To recapitulate all his inventions, with their respective merits, and the approbatory letters that he has received from different academical inst.i.tutions, would half fill my little volume; suffice it to say that he is the only person in his business, to whom has ever been awarded the gold medal; besides which, the Royal Academy of Sciences have presented him with 1800 francs, for the improvement he has effected in surgical instruments. There is scarcely a disease and certainly not a single operation that can be performed on the human frame, for which M. Charriere has not the requisite materials in the utmost perfection, even for the fabrication of artificial noses; and for one invention he merits the grat.i.tude of all mothers, the _biberon_, a machine for the purpose of supplying an infant with milk, when circ.u.mstances prevent the mother from affording that nourishment. This instrument is so contrived that the part which meets the lips is in point of texture exactly the same as that which nature provides, uniting an equal degree of softness and elasticity, that the child takes to the subst.i.tute, with the same zest as if it were the reality. I have known instances where the lives of children have been saved by this machine, the parents declaring to me that such was the case, and that they considered that every mother ought to be provided with so useful an instrument. The address of M. Charriere is No. 9, Rue de l'Ecole-de-Medecine. A variety of cutlery is kept of as perfect a description as those articles for which he has attained so high a celebrity.

It has generally in modern days been a reproach to France, that she has been rather lax in regard of religious matters; what there may be in the hearts of the inhabitants of that or other countries I shall not presume to give an opinion, but can only say that I find the churches in Paris, both protestant and catholic, always during service time nearly full, and many to overflowing. Not only that, but the French are much attached to holy a.s.sociations, hence the prints of our Saviour, the Virgin, and the Saints, have a most inexhaustible sale; I need give my readers no greater proof than recommending them to visit the establishment of M. Dopter, No. 21, Rue St. Jacques, they will there find amongst his immense collection of engravings and lithographies, the portrait of every saint that ever was heard of, an innumerable variety of religious subjects for which there is a most extensive and incessant demand. Some of these are stamped and illuminated in a most splendid manner, and I verily believe there is scarcely a subject connected with the christian religion, of which M. Dopter has not a representation; his establishment is therefore known throughout all France, and many parts of Europe, to which he transmits numbers of his publications.

He likewise has a most useful a.s.sortment of maps and geographical ill.u.s.trations, with portraits of celebrated characters, particularly those connected with the campaigns and adventures of Napoleon, as also his battles, and remarkable events of his life, as well as a great diversity of historical subjects, landscapes, academical studies, etc., etc.; M. Dopter is also the inventor of the new style of covers for binding, of which the present volume is a specimen, having them of an innumerable variety of patterns, and of every size likely to be demanded.

It has often struck me that maps were very incomplete, in consequence of their not being capable of giving the degrees of elevation of hills or mountains except in a very inefficient manner; the same idea, I suppose, actuated M. Bauerkeller, and induced him to invent those maps in relief, which are now becoming so generally demanded, as giving such an accurate ill.u.s.tration of the surface of a country, which is most beautifully exemplified in many of his specimens, but most particularly in that of Switzerland; every object having a degree of elevation proportioned to the reality, and coloured in a great measure similar to the subject intended to be represented, thus the snow-capped mountains of Switzerland have their white summits distinctly expressed, their blue lakes, their green meadows, grey rocks, etc., given with such fidelity, that a person obtains a most perfect notion of regions he may never have an opportunity to visit. This system of forming maps or plans upon embossed paper, is peculiarly applicable to cities, as the public buildings appear to such advantage, and M. Bauerkeller has already executed those of London, Paris, St. Petersburg, Vienna, New York, the city of Mexico, Hamburg, Basle, a Panorama of the Rhine from Coblentz to Mayence, besides several other cities and countries, and there is no doubt that in a short time the whole of Europe and many other distant districts will be ill.u.s.trated in the same manner, as he is constantly adding to his collection which already excites the highest interest. M.

Bauerkeller's plan of executing charts, maps, or views in relief, can be equally produced either upon velvet, silk, or leather, for the ill.u.s.tration of a diversity of subjects which can be applied to an innumerable variety of purposes, as shades for lamps, men's caps, slippers, reticules, stands for decanters, screens, etc., etc.; already he has extended his connexions to such a degree that he receives applications from all parts of Europe and America for different articles in which his invention is introduced. Some of his works which were displayed at the national exhibition excited universal admiration, and obtained him a medal; he has also been granted a patent for fifteen years. This invention is not only valuable in having rendered maps more ornamental, but it a.s.sists the study of geography; by the objects being rendered so much more distinct, it increases the interest and consequently makes a deeper impression on the memory; in fact, the numerous advantages to be derived from this system of giving plans in relief may be easily imagined, but are too long to be described. A specimen of the art will be found at the beginning of this work: M.

Bauerkeller's address is No. 380, Rue St. Denis, Pa.s.sage Lemoine.

Amongst the number of inventions which are constantly emanating from the brain of man, I know of few which unite more ingenuity, utility, and simplicity than that of M. Martin (gun-maker at No. 36, Rue Phelippeaux), relative to the improvement of every description of gun that is impelled by percussion. According to the system he has introduced, and for which he has obtained a patent, all the inconvenience to which the sportsman is subjected in priming is entirely obviated, as instead of having to place the percussion cap with one's fingers, so disagreeable in very cold weather, it is at once effected by the act of c.o.c.king, and the gun may be fired from 80 to 100 times, always as it were priming itself, as the number of percussion caps required are introduced through the b.u.t.t, and conducted to the point desired. The method of inserting the percussion caps is perfectly easy; pressing a little b.u.t.ton or nut at the bottom of the b.u.t.t causes a plate to open, when two spiral wire-springs must be taken out, as also a moveable tube, from the interior of the gun, and the latter filled with percussion caps, which must be poured into fixed tubes which communicate with the anvil; they may contain from 40 to 50 each; when this number is introduced replace the spiral wire-springs which press the percussion caps exactly, regularly and successively as they are needed to the point desired, then fasten in the springs with the little hook attached for that purpose, lastly replace the moveable tube and shut the plate at the bottom of the b.u.t.t. This process is executed in a far shorter time than it can be described. The _immense_ advantage of this invention may not appear at the first view; but when it is considered how much more rapid may be the fire of an army in consequence of the time gained, which would be occupied in priming, the power it will give them over an enemy must be evident, and there is no doubt but that in a very short time they will be universally adopted. All such of my countrymen who come to Paris I would recommend to call on M. Martin; he will give them every possible explanation on the subject in the most obliging manner, and also give them practical evidence of the manner in which it operates.

However deficient the French were until a very few years since in almost every thing which relates to mechanics, yet in some articles they have now made such rapid strides, that it becomes a question whether they will not surpa.s.s us, if we do not exert the same energy in the spirit of improvement with which they have been recently actuated. Formerly the inferiority of French pianos to ours was most evident, and perhaps, generally speaking, I should still say it was the case, but there are a few manufacturers, the tone of whose instruments is superb; of such a description are those of M. Soufleto. It is really surprising how he has been enabled, in a small upright piano, to produce the force and depth of tone which he has found the means of uniting in comparatively so small a volume, the ba.s.s having absolutely the power and roundness of an organ; but that part of an instrument which most frequently fails, is that which is composed of the additional keys or the highest notes, which are apt to be thin and wiry, but with Mr. Soufleto's pianos it is not the case, the tone being soft and full, with a proportionate degree of force with the rest of the instrument. His merit has been duly acknowledged, having not only received the King's patent, but having been twice presented with medals, and appointed manufacturer to the Queen. As most English families who come to Paris for the purpose of residing or sojourning for a certain time, are desirous of hiring or purchasing a _good_ piano, I can a.s.sure them that such they will find at M. Soufleto's, No. 171, Rue Montmartre, and that his terms are extremely moderate in consideration of the excellence of his instruments.

I am sure my readers will approve of my directing their attention to the establishment of M. Richond, styled the Phoenix, No. 17, Boulevard Montmartre, near the Rue Richelieu. They will there find such a splendid a.s.sortment of time-pieces, as const.i.tutes a most beautiful sight, equally gratifying to the artist and the amateur, many of the subjects being perfectly cla.s.sic, and exhibiting the tastes and costumes of different ages; some of these magnificent time-pieces are adorned with figures, either bronze or gilded, representing historical characters, after the designs of the first masters, which are most admirably executed, and indeed there is such a variety of subjects, that one might pa.s.s hours in the shop, deriving the greatest pleasure from the examination of so many interesting subjects. It is also a satisfaction to know that the works of M. Richond's time-pieces are equal to their external beauty. In fact it is a house that has been long established and has ever supported a good name, having a considerable connexion, not only throughout France, but in foreign countries, particularly with England, and is by far the most recommendable of any in Paris in that line of business. Every object has the price marked upon it, which is always adhered to, and the charges are as moderate as could possibly be expected from the superiority of the articles over those which are sold in so many other shops in Paris; some time-pieces there are which of course amount to a high price, consistent with their splendour. There is a stamp fixed by government upon the internal works of each time-piece, to prove that it is verified as being of the best quality. M. Richond undertakes, at his own risk, the conveyance of time-pieces to London which have been purchased at his shop, and warrants them against any accident which may happen to the works in travelling, having a correspondent in London who is in the same business, and is commissioned to execute any repairs which may be requisite.

Amongst other branches of industry which now have risen into considerable importance, is one which at present const.i.tutes an extensive business of itself, although formerly only considered as a minor department of different concerns; that to which I allude is what the French term _chemisier_, which I can translate no otherwise than s.h.i.+rt-maker. There are now many following this business in Paris, but the largest establishment, and from which many others spring, is that of M. Demarne, No. 39, Rue Croix-des-Pet.i.ts-Champs, and he has so exerted his ingenuity in this peculiar line that he has obtained a patent for the perfection to which he has elevated it; he has been twice honourably mentioned in the reports published of two national exhibitions in which he had specimens of his works. His fame has already travelled throughout the Continent, and he is patronised by the princes of several courts of Europe, amongst others Prince Ernest of Cobourg, and noticing the names of several of the English n.o.bility, in a list which he showed me to prove the encouragement he received from my _compatriots_, I remarked that of a n.o.ble lord of sporting notoriety whose s.h.i.+rts were at the price of _only_ 150 fr. (6_l._) each. However, it must not be supposed that M. Demarne is dearer than other people, the price of all his articles are proportioned to the nature of the materials of which they are composed, and many are at the most moderate charges. At his extensive establishment will also be found an a.s.sortment of s.h.i.+rt collars, cravats, braces, silk handkerchiefs, etc., etc., arranged according to the prevailing fas.h.i.+ons. One of the most curious, ingenious and incomprehensible inventions of any I have seen is that of M. Paris, coiffeur to the Princes and Princesses, 25, Pa.s.sage Choiseul, and 22, Rue Dalayrac, near the new Italian Theatre, relating to all descriptions of false hair, which he contrives to arrange in such a manner that the skin of the head is seen through where the hair is parted, and the roots represented as springing from the head in so natural a manner, that the deception cannot be discerned even on the closest inspection; the extreme delicacy of the work in these fronts and toupies is really inimitable, a person may put one on the back of their hand, and the division appears so transparent that the skin is seen under it as clear as if not a single hair crossed it, and yet by some invisible means the parts are held together, which can only be by light transparent hairs which are not discernible to the naked eye. He has obtained a patent for this invention, and although I know my countrywomen have generally very fine heads of hair, yet as from fevers or other causes they are sometimes deprived of it, also that grey hairs will intrude, I cannot too strongly recommend them to patronise the talents of M. Paris, and which under similar circ.u.mstances will be found equally serviceable to gentlemen.

Whilst dilating upon different inventions which either contribute to comfort or convenience, I must not omit that of M. Cazal, who has obtained two patents, and medals for the umbrellas and parasols he has invented, with which he furnishes the Queen and Princesses, and which are entirely superseding all those of any other construction. In such as M. Cazal has brought into vogue, instead of the catches or springs which retain the umbrella when open or shut, being inserted in the stick, which always contributes towards weakening it, they are attached to the wire frame-work, and by merely touching a little b.u.t.ton will slide up or down as required with the greatest facility, without those little annoyances which so frequently happen in the old method, of either pinching one's fingers, or the glove catching in the spring, or the latter breaking or losing its elasticity, etc., etc. The stick by this system, it must also be observed, is stronger, therefore can if desired be thinner, and consequently lighter. Another description, called travelling umbrellas, is also invented by M. Cazal and is particularly convenient, containing a cane inside the stick, by which it may be used as one or as the other, according as the weather or caprice may require; these are extremely desirable for lame persons who require a stick, as the umbrella when closed answers the purpose, and if required to be opened the cane drawing out equally affords support. M. Cazal has an a.s.sortment of canes and whips the most varied that can be imagined; it would be difficult to fancy any pattern or form that is not to be found in his numerous collection. His establishment is No. 23, Boulevard Italien, where there is always some one in attendance who speaks English. Whilst so near, I cannot resist mentioning so respectable a tradesman as M. Froge, tailor, with whom the fas.h.i.+onable Englishmen sojourning at Paris have dealt for above twenty years, and ever found him so honourable in his transactions that they still continue to afford him their patronage; his address is No. 3, Boulevard des Capucines.

CHAPTER IX.

To the ladies.

As I have set out with professing to render my work of as much utility as possible, I am desirous of giving my fair countrywomen the benefit of my own experience in Paris, by indicating to them those establishments wherein they may abstract a portion of the contents of their purse, without having cause to think that it has been recklessly dissipated, as no one more than myself would regret to see their "glittering money fly like chaff before the wind," so am I extremely tenacious that they should only barter it for its full value, and as I know ladies must and will have perfumes, however superfluous in most instances, for it is but adding "sweets to the sweets," I shall conduct them to the emporium of delicious odours, appertaining to M. Blanche, whose dealings I can a.s.sure them are as pure as his name; he has besides the merit of being an excellent chymist, and the still greater merit of having devoted his talents to the fair s.e.x, and in that point which they appreciate most highly, the embellishment and preservation of their personal attractions; he has therefore invented a peculiar description of vegetable soap, called _Savon Vegetal de Guimauve_, which is so renowned amongst the Paris belles, that I should not be surprised at their forming themselves into a committee, and voting an address of thanks to M. Blanche for the signal services he has rendered to the cause of beauty, as not only are the medicinal powers attributed to this _savon_, of removing any impurities and softening the skin, but also that of giving it a smooth satiny l.u.s.tre, which may be compared to adding the last _coup de grace_ to the female charms. In addition to these advantages it possesses that of having the most agreeable scent; its merits have in fact obtained it a patent and it is only sold at the establishment of M. Blanche, No. 48, Pa.s.sage Choiseul, where also may be procured every description of perfumery and a variety of other articles, all good of their kind, as the proprietor would consider the vending of an inferior quality as a stain upon his character and upon his _fair_ name.

Formerly the English ladies were very _sharp_ and _pointed_ in their reflexions upon French needles, much more so indeed than the objects to which their sarcasms were directed, which in fact were but blunt and brittle ware, and the consequence was that they not only tried all their own little arts to smuggle over as many as they could when they came from England, but they exacted the same pecadillo from their unfortunate friends; now of all things I most hate smuggling, princ.i.p.ally I admit from the fear of being caught; which I think excessively disagreeable.

Judge then how rejoiced I was when informed by some of my fair friends that there were as good needles to be had at the Maison Bierri, a la Ville de Lille, 32, Faubourg St. Honore, as any that could be procured in London, and one respectable matron insisted that it was a moral duty inc.u.mbent upon me to mention an establishment so exceedingly useful to my countrywomen, not only because it contains so many articles which females are constantly requiring, but that every thing they have is of so superior a quality; in fact nothing would satisfy the good lady but my going myself to see how it was crowded with purchasers.

I obeyed, and in good truth found the shop quite like a fair, but the most perfect order and arrangement prevailing, the proprietor constantly upon the watch to see that the young people were civil and attentive to the customers, who were purchasing a variety of articles and particularly ribbands; of which there appeared a most brilliant a.s.sortment, and I heard it observed that in that department the Maison Bierri had a celebrity _unique_. There were also as great diversity of fringe, net, blonde, muslin, mercery, lace, jaconas, linings, worsteds, all kinds of haberdashery, etc., etc. I also remarked that in every drawer, containing the different articles which were produced, the prices were marked, so that in case of the least demur regarding the charge, a reference to the label decides the affair. By the excellence of his goods, the regular system upon which the business is conducted, and the a.s.siduity of all concerned in the Maison Bierri, he has attracted numbers of the English, and amongst the rest the Amba.s.sadress, and there is always some person attending who speaks their language. In the exterior there is no attempt at display; like many of the most respectable establishments, it depends so entirely on its extensive connexions, as not to need any efforts to promote publicity, and every one residing at Paris must have heard of the reputation of the Maison Bierri; it is particularly convenient for the English, being in the quarter in which they mostly dwell.

As there is no department of the toilet by which ladies either so disfigure or embellish themselves, as the hat, bonnet, or cap, I must beseech my fair countrywomen to procure those articles from such persons alone who have as it were obtained a diploma for good taste; as I am most anxious that when Englishwomen are in France, that they should in every respect appear to the best advantage; now as I consider that which adorns the head as having so important a bearing upon the beauty of a female, deep and frequent were my cogitations upon the subject, before I could make up my mind what _modiste_ I should recommend to the patronage of my countrywomen, as I would not have the sin upon my head, for all the mines of Golconda, of having been accessary to an Englishwoman putting on a hat or bonnet that did not become her; therefore, after mature deliberation, I determined to call a council of all my female acquaintances, and beg of them to hold a debate upon this knotty point; the result was most satisfactory, the question being carried without a division, in fact there was not one dissentient voice, the name of Madame de Barenne being p.r.o.nounced by one and all at the same moment; it being observed that there were several persons who had attained a certain degree of celebrity as _modistes_, but for uniting grace, elegance and simplicity with an artistical _gusto_, there were none in Paris who surpa.s.sed Madame de Barenne (14 place Vendome). I have before alluded to this lady, and certainly have observed that her manners, her apartments, and every thing around her has an air _distingue_, and although I would never have the presumption of giving an opinion upon articles so far above my judgment, yet I can record the opinion of those who are considered true connaisseurs, from whom I learn that at Madame de Barenne's, hats, bonnets, caps, and turbans, of every variety, are arranged with the utmost perfection, the materials being of the most superior description consistent with the season of the year, adorned with marabouts, bird of paradise feathers, aigrettes, flowers from the celebrated Constantin, all selected from those houses which have the most renown for the respective articles in which they deal, but which are introduced with so much taste and judgment, that besides her ingenuity, having obtained a patent, she has been specially appointed modiste to the Queen of Belgium, the Princess Clementine, and the d.u.c.h.ess de Nemours.

Not far from the English Amba.s.sador's, in the centre as it were of what may be termed the English quarter, is an establishment styled _La Tentation_, which from the variety and excellence of its goods operates on the visiter consistently with its t.i.tle. It is a _Magasin de Nouveautes_, containing almost every article appertaining to the toilet, as linen, drapery, hosiery, fancy goods, etc., and is on that extensive scale, that their a.s.sortment possesses every diversity that can be desired, whilst even the most fastidious cannot fail of meeting that which must suit their taste. This establishment is not like many in the same way of business, who spend a little fortune in advertising their goods, incurring tremendous expenses in obtruding themselves and their merchandise before the public, and then making that public pay the outlay they have made upon newspapers, pamphlets, etc., by either charging higher prices, or laying in stock of inferior quality, thereby even at an apparently moderate price they are enabled to obtain higher profits, whilst by continuing their puffing advertis.e.m.e.nts, they hope constantly to attract a new supply of dupes.

_La Tentation_, on the contrary, calculate only upon obtaining and retaining connexion, by keeping none but good articles, and selling them at a small profit; strict attention and civility to their customers, and having a stock ever consistent with the changes of the fas.h.i.+ons and seasons, by a constant adherence to these objects a durable success has been effected. The progress of this establishment has been worthy of remark, commencing under a humble roof upon a modest scale, until with the process of time the proprietors were emboldened to enlarge their premises when at length it increased to its present magnitude, occupying a considerable portion of a n.o.ble mansion This has been achieved by a judicious selection of stock, with constant perseverance, and conducting their business on honourable principles, it is just such an establishment as is calculated to please the English, where great neatness and cleanliness is observed, and everything conducted in a quiet and una.s.suming manner. The charges on each article are fixed at a price that will admit of no diminution, and the English have the satisfaction of knowing that they pay no more than the French, which perhaps is not the case in all houses in Paris; persons wis.h.i.+ng to view the goods are not pressed to purchase unless they feel disposed to do so, and however trifling may be the amount, they are not tormented, as in too many shops, to buy more than they wish. Whatever articles are selected are sent punctually to the residence of the parties at the time required, and orders, whether personally or by letter, meet with the strictest attention. There is always some person belonging to the establishment who speaks English. La Tentation is situated No. 67, Rue Faubourg St. Honore, at the corner of the Avenue de Marigny.

Perhaps there is no branch of the arts which has been wrought to so high a perfection as that of making artificial flowers, and no place in the world where it is practised to such an extent as Paris, or with so high a degree of talent; but although it has been long and justly celebrated for the exquisite taste developed in forming bouquets, wherein all the varieties of colour are so a.s.sembled as to display each other to the best advantage, yet so arranged that a certain harmony should pervade the whole; still M. Constantin has discovered the means of availing himself of the abilities of the Parisians in this department of the art, that he has elevated it to a degree of alt.i.tude it had never before attained, and in fact his flowers have become so exclusively the mode, that if a lady wear any whatever, it would be offending her to suppose that they were any other than those of M. Constantin. Indeed, it is impossible to enter his apartments without feeling a thorough conviction of the elegance of his taste, first pa.s.sing through a long corridor between two rows of real flowers, proving that he fears not the rivality of nature, conscious that his own works unite the same beauties of tints and colours which her highest powers can produce, and one room into which his customers are introduced, unites a degree of taste in the richness and splendour of its ornamental objects, with that proper tone of keeping which is pleasing to the eye; but it is at his little boudoir that the beholder is astonished, such luxuriant magnificence as is therein displayed can only be imagined from a description presented in the Arabian Nights! in fact the Dutch Amba.s.sador was so delighted with the exquisite arrangement of this superb specimen of sumptuous decoration, that he requested permission to bring an artist to take an exact copy of the elegant little chamber and its contents, to form a similar boudoir for the Queen of Holland. As M. Constantin is now arrived at the summit of his profession, he is enabled to command prices commensurate with his talents, and has some bouquets as high as 1000 francs, but there are articles which may be purchased at the moderate charge of 10 francs; his residence is No. 37, Rue Neuve St.

Augustin. M. Constantin possesses the recommendation of being extremely particular as to the morality and propriety of conduct with his young persons, and that degree of decorum is constantly preserved, that any ladies visiting his apartments will find the same order and discipline maintained as in the strictest boarding-schools.

I know not whether it is the case with all men, but I believe it is, that the first time I see a lady, I naturally look in her face, then my next impulse is to look at her foot; now as I have already done my utmost for my countrywomen for the ornamenting of the former, in recommending them to Madame de Barenne, I must now endeavour to serve them in respect to the latter, reminding them that in Lord Normandy's novel of "Yes and No," he observes, speaking of the feet of Parisian females, "How exquisitely they decorate that part of the person," and as I have already remarked that I do not wish English ladies in any one particular to yield to Parisian or any other ladies, I must request that they will, as soon as possible after they arrive at Paris, apply to M.

Hoffman, No. 8, Rue de la Paix, who will fit them in such a light and elegant manner, giving such a "_jolie tournure_" to the foot, that they will scarcely know their own feet again, after having been accustomed to be shod in the English fas.h.i.+on; for although I have a very exalted idea of the transcendant talents of my countrymen, I do not consider that the vein of their abilities at all runs in the shoemaking line. M. Hoffman's residence is at the end of a court-yard, almost as quiet and as retired as if it were in a convent; his articles will be found of the best quality, both he and Madame speak English, and rival each other in attention and civility to their customers; they have an a.s.sortment of the different specimens of their work, consisting of every variety which is worn, according with the fas.h.i.+on and season.

I believe every lady before she quits England with the intention of visiting Paris, has already made up her mind to make some purchase of lace pretty soon after her arrival; to prevent them therefore from falling into bad hands, I recommend them to go at once to one of the most extensive and respectable establishments in that department of any in Paris, indeed I believe I may truly add the most so. It is one of those large wholesale houses of the French metropolis that transact business with all parts of the world in lace, ribbands, and silks; it is situated at No. 2ter, Rue Choiseul, the firm is Messrs. Bellart, Louys and Delcambre, where every description of blonde and lace, in all its mult.i.tudinous variety, from the most simple to the richest, rarest and most costly, will be found, and at extremely reasonable prices, as so many retail dealers furnish themselves from this establishment; besides which, they are themselves manufacturers of black Chantilly lace and white blonde. This concern has the character of being solely wholesale, but they make an exception with regard to lace. Their collection of ribbands is unrivalled both for the beauty and extent. They have also a most valuable a.s.sortment of silks, satins, velvets, stuffs, brocade, embroidery of gold and silver, etc., etc., selected with extreme taste and judgment, and indeed Mme de Barenne owes a great portion of her success to having supplied herself from this house with the material which she required, as being of so very superior a quality, it gave great vogue to whatever was produced by her ingenuity, to which certainly her own talents contributed in the taste displayed in the disposition and arrangement of the different articles, independent of their own excellence.

Whatever rivalry there may be between different countries, respecting their divers produce and manufactures, with regard to gloves none would have the audacity to cast the gauntlet at France, which has ever held the supremacy over other nations in that department, yet it has recently been elevated a step higher by an invention of M. Mayer, of No. 26, Rue de la Paix, for which he has been granted a king's patent, consisting in what are termed ball gloves, which are so made as to b.u.t.ton and lace about half way up the arm, which prevents them from slipping down upon the wrist, they are besides furnished with tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs also invented by M.

Mayer, which may either be of the utmost simplicity, or of the richest description, and may be composed of either satin, velvet, lace, gold, or even pearls and diamonds may be and are frequently introduced; they may be also furnished with ta.s.sels which may be formed of materials equally costly, thus the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of these gloves may either be had for four francs or may cost twenty guineas and upwards, according to the desires of the wearers. In fact M. Mayer has introduced a degree of luxury and splendour in the decorations of gloves, which has given them an importance in the toilet which they never before possessed, and have become so much the vogue with ladies of the highest distinction, that they have obtained for M. Mayer the privilege of furnis.h.i.+ng the royal family of France, the Empress of Russia, the Queens of Naples, Spain, Belgium, etc. M. Mayer also occupies himself with gentlemen's gloves, and has just invented a peculiar description, without gussets between the fingers, by which means they set closer to the hand, and are not so liable to be come unsewed as by the former method; he has them likewise so arranged as to b.u.t.ton at the side instead of the middle, which always left an unsightly aperture. Now I think of it, these last few lines had no business in the ladies' chapter, as they allude to that which are worn solely by gentlemen, but I dare say that my fair readers, if they find M. Mayer's gloves merit my commendations, will be equally anxious that their husbands, brothers, or sons should furnish themselves at the same place and excuse the intrusion. M. Mayer has a private apartment tastefully fitted up, appropriated for the ladies, where they can make their selections as uninterrupted and un.o.bserved as at their own homes.

Next door to M. Mayer's, at No. 28, is an establishment which has received very distinguished and extensive patronage, known by the appellation of La Maison Lucy Hocquet, not only for hats, bonnets, capotes and turbans, but also for pelerines, fichus a la paysanne, _canzous_, chemisettes, collars, habit s.h.i.+rts, parures de spectacles, etc.; in these articles they have been so celebrated for the taste and elegance with which they are arranged, that the fame of their talents has attracted around them many of the most influential ladies in Paris, as also several of the most celebrated _artistes_ whose good taste and jugement are proverbial; amongst others may be cited Mlle Rachel. La Maison Lucy Hocquet likewise furnishes several crowned heads, as the Empress of Russia, Queen of Portugal, etc., and amongst the leading personages of Paris, the Princess Demidoff, the d.u.c.h.esses d'Eckmuhl, de Montebello, de Valmy, Marquise d'Osmond, etc. To the above list might be added many names of the English n.o.bility, who still continue to be supplied from this establishment, which independent of the merit which is displayed in the arrangement of every article which it produces, is also highly recommendable on account of the attentive civility which they extend to all who may have occasion to apply to them.

CHAPTER X.

The present artists in France and their productions, improvements in Paris, fortifications, humanity to animals, education of females, personal appearance of the French, army and navy, scientific Societies, and commercial enterprises.

Never perhaps at any period was there so much encouragement given to the arts and sciences in general in France as at the present, nor ever was there a monarch who reigned over the French, who so much endeavoured to promote every object which tended to usefulness, or to the advancement of the fine arts. No country in the world has such advantages as France for nurturing talent, and giving it the opportunity of developing itself, so numerous are the societies and inst.i.tutions where lectures and instruction are afforded gratuitously, hence the great a.s.sistance to young artists; without any expense or trouble, they are admitted into a drawing academy, where they may acquire the fundamental principles of the graphic art; afterwards there are other different establishments which they can enter as their studies progress, and when they attain any degree of proficiency, they have a chance of being sent at the expense of government to Rome, to complete their studies, and if they excel to a moderate degree, are sure to be employed by the King, or some member of the royal family, or by the nation. With all these immense advantages, how much might be expected of the French artists, but the fact does not realise those hopes that might be justly formed from the solid rudimental education which they have the power of receiving. The exhibition this year at the Louvre of the paintings of the living artists was a complete ill.u.s.tration of what I have stated, as every one allows that it was far inferior to that of last year, which was considered much worse than those of former years.

At the same time it must be admitted that several of the best artists have not sent any pictures for the last few years, and particularly the present, when amongst the absentees might be cited Ingres, Horace Vernet, Ary Scheffer, Delaroche, etc., who it appears were all employed by the King or government; the consequence was, although there was an immense ma.s.s of large historical and scriptural subjects, it was what might have been called a most sorry display. Amongst the number one alone evinced a superiority of talent, and that was the taking of Mazagran by Phillippoteaux, which really had considerable merit, and the artist it appears pa.s.sed some time in Algiers, and therefore was enabled to give a faithful representation of the inhabitants of the country. Of miscellaneous subjects, or what the French call _tableau de genre_, there were many most exquisite pictures, amongst the rest, the Miller, his Son and his a.s.s, by H. Bellange, which was so full of character and expression, that it needed not language to tell the tale; there were also several other pieces by the same artist, possessing equal merit.

An a.s.sembly of Protestants surprised by Catholic Troops, by Karl Girardet, was a most superior picture in Wilkie's best style; Reading the Bible, by Edward Girardet, also exceedingly clever; but one of the most delightful pictures in the exhibition was by Gue, of Raymond of Toulouse reconciling himself to the Church; I never yet saw any performance of that artist but evinced some great merit, either the finest imagination, the most beautiful execution, or the utmost truth to nature, according to the subject he undertakes. I should certainly p.r.o.nounce Gue as one of the best artists who now send their pictures to the Louvre; one he had two years since of the Crucifixion, at the annual Exhibition, which certainly was a most sublime composition, the approach of night, with a slight glare of parting light, was most admirably represented, and gave a sort of wild gloom which so beautifully harmonised with the nature of the subject; he had also introduced the dead rising from their tombs, which contributed to augment the solemn tone which pervaded the whole picture. However lightly or frivolously the mind might be engaged, one glance at this exquisite painting must at once strike awe into the beholder; it was true that there was a great similarity with one on the same subject, in the Louvre, by Karel Dujardin, but not sufficiently so to say it was borrowed, or to detract from its merit. T. Johanot had but one picture this year, which was very clever, as his always are; his subjects are mostly historical, and his ill.u.s.trations of Walter Scott are universally known and admired.

Schopin is another of the French artists whose pictures will always live, his females are so truly graceful, such sweetness of expression in their countenances; this year he did not s.h.i.+ne so much as he has before, having but one picture, which was from Ruth and Boaz, and the latter was made to appear too old. A paralyzed old Man on an a.s.s, which his son was leading, was a true picture of nature, by Leleux; the vigour of the one and the feebleness of the other were admirably contrasted, although rather flat from wanting more shade.

Of this description there were far too many pictures possessing merit than I can afford room to cite, but amongst the portraits there were some such wretched daubs, that they would have been a disgrace to any country; in fact this is a branch in which the French are peculiarly deficient, and in which we far surpa.s.s them. The portrait painter who has now the greatest vogue is Winterhatter, who certainly has a great degree of merit, but rather sacrifices the face to the drapery; his picture of the Queen was very justly admired in many respects, but the laboured accuracy with which the lace was given, was rendered so conspicuous, that the eye fell upon the costume before it lighted upon the features; this pleases the ladies, I am aware, who like to have an exact map of their blonde and guipure, and it certainly is too much the case that an artist is obliged to be more or less the slave of his sitters and their friends; his miscellaneous pieces, where his pencil roves freely, are all that is delightful. His portrait of the Comte de Paris and the d.u.c.h.ess de Nemours, certainly display considerable talent.

Two favourite and fas.h.i.+onable portrait painters are Dubuffe and Court, the works of the former are well known in England, they