Three Years in Tristan da Cunha Part 10

_Monday, February 4_.--Late on Sat.u.r.day evening we heard a distant whistle which we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down to see them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we had to wait till we saw a light pa.s.sing our way. Most of the people were carrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fine effect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the sh.o.r.e.

Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the light possible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in the darkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling with water in the surf. The moment it touched the sh.o.r.e the women, boys, and girls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled up a steep bank of s.h.i.+ngle. The fire was stirred up and in its light the second boat made a run for the sh.o.r.e. It was a weird scene. The expedition had been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to the s.h.i.+p, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything.

Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flour with a little rice were better than nothing. The s.h.i.+p was bound for Natal, but the captain would not take any pa.s.sengers. We are pleased the letters have gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the s.h.i.+p the captain called out, "The letters are not stamped." Repetto called back, "All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are." We can never stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stamps they would be of no use because we never know where the letters will be posted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep his for the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first.

We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some of the people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, and others have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with which they were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here, and have much enjoyed reading them.

We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almost daily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope in the future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they care for none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars do much damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes are riddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tiny green caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having no insect-eating birds here is a great loss.

We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. At night we have the windows and door of our room, the pa.s.sage window, and sometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door to keep the pigs out.

CHAPTER XVII

_Wednesday, February 6_.--Yesterday when we came back from bathing we heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, but seeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and was hauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about ten miles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descending precipitously to the sh.o.r.e. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were put ash.o.r.e, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left it some months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wild as the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders, and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beach she went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throw a la.s.so over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimming out to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soon as we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from the boats to the sh.o.r.e. The orchards were on the mountain side in a sheltered place. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had to have help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us, was only too pleased to give. We pa.s.sed a very fine vine; the grapes were not yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The gra.s.s was long and rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a time we helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and I found a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and sat near the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perched within a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturb them. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white, and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it.

They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked their beaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way.

Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and then went back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope.

The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on their backs. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were all down. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they are ripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the children munch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach, but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a very plentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and we travelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feeling rather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs.

Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which was most acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto and Sophy Rogers, came up with us from the sh.o.r.e and offered to carry our wraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. They love to help, and come in two and three times a day now.

_Sat.u.r.day, February_ 9.--It is difficult to keep count of dates here, the weeks pa.s.s so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping up suet, Graham repairing boots.

The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some children went by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With some difficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, and brought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and a good deal of driftwood.

Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, and shot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can do to bring up one from the sh.o.r.e slung on her back. Once they nested on the island, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible.

I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She has been months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has picked up one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with better result. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her it is like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by the children. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implant them in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all.

_Monday, February_ 11.--During Lent we are to have daily service at nine o'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on the Holy Communion.

_Friday, February 15_.--The daily services so far are being very well attended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-known hymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour.

I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussock where it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a hen looking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, and usually with a successful result.

The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It was feared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with a fit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of him to Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced their steps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeing no traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they were encountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he was all right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleep there, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in.

The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky, Becky, let me out."

Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get off to the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee, sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap.

We got a good deal of rice from one of the s.h.i.+ps, but bread we had virtually to do without.

The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. I brought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnly clambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful of tea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back to his place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my side without moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He is fair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart.

_Monday, February_ l8.--This morning we had such a delightful bathe. The sea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at one end. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. We often go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; he would not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he is generally here, there, and everywhere.

_Sunday, February_ 24.--John Gla.s.s's son and heir was baptized today and was named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Gla.s.s, his greatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn---

"O Father, Thou who hast created all In wisest love, we pray, Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious call Is entering on life's way; Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness, Thine image on his soul impress; O Father, hear!"

I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here.

_Monday, February_ 25.--I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick them green, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. I have hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on the sitting-room window-sills.

A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being no such thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of s.h.i.+p iron, and called a "tussock-hook." The hay, which is deliciously sweet, was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut any more of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goes against the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut and never used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While I have been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from the children who have been helping Ellen.

_Tuesday, February 26_.--As we were out for a walk this afternoon we saw cart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded with sacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two children seated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women and children the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole.

It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardly be described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs.

_Sat.u.r.day, March 2_.--A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one is running hither and thither.

CHAPTER XVIII

_Monday, March_ 4.--It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts to write. Sat.u.r.day was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon after we had returned from bathing a s.h.i.+p was seen on the horizon. It was coming from the east. This is the first time a s.h.i.+p has come from that direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islanders started forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As we were returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flag on the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We at once decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, for there was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the s.h.i.+p, and to our surprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt sure the s.h.i.+p was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats were getting fairly near the sh.o.r.e we went down. A tremendously heavy shower came on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea had become rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east; they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray was das.h.i.+ng all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the sh.o.r.e. How we scanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we could see there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites, Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green, who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, as they are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a stranger was descried.

The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and I helped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head to foot, but happily he was not _hors de combat_. He introduced the stranger as Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had come partly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting a trade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel had lunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us and to sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interesting man with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers, fis.h.i.+ng, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail was brought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containing a great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders.

What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it was difficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few days almost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, and has received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments which may require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discuss with the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has also had a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department at Cape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which is described as "The Relief Expedition." The Imperial Government has sent the islanders goods to the value of 100. These include one hundred bags of flour, groceries, and a large quant.i.ty of crockery. The stores which we ordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwright of Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for two years. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guest came we were able to bake a loaf.

_7:35_.--We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I had very little mind left.

On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go out to her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distance away, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. They have now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign of them. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugar so that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive.

Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from what the men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so much rain pa.s.ses through it was.h.i.+ng out all the goodness; also, it is in the tussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle or sheep.

_Tuesday, March 5_.--We went down last night to meet the boats. Each brought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on the island for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so that lanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either to haul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was not easy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ash.o.r.e for us a funny little brown puppy.

About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front door saying something about the mail at Gla.s.s's. Graham went to see what it was, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormous budget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up till nearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning.

This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult except two was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham told the people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed the Government could not promise to do anything further for them, and that therefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantage of going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. But notwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or two said they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Gla.s.s said she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr.

Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He is considering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and I hope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for the islanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regular communication. A trade would make them independent of outside help except perhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably the Government will think it has done enough for some time to come.

This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903 Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to the Governor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape, and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with this suggestion in January, 1904, H.M.S. _Odin_ arrived at Tristan having on board Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government to make the following offer to the islanders:--"Should all the inhabitants wish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide them with a free pa.s.sage, purchase their live stock from them and settle them within 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land on rent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They were also told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be able to start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town ... and that in future they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (Blue Book). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn.

_Wednesday, March_ 6.--Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stopped the unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concert at the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as I have this one, more particularly the orchestral part.

We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings this afternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail which is sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fas.h.i.+on--even in the boats. It has been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house.

Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in the presence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that any letters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposed authority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have come to be thought n.o.body's property, and to be appropriated by any one into whose hands they might fall.

Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the island and is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted to talk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongst other points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and that food should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land be railed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won the men's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes if all goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, which will probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town we could not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr.

Keytel promises to yield.

_Thursday, March 7_.--Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. He has now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has still to write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day.

The s.h.i.+p has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business has been done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her.

The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to open our packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come to hand answered first.

_Sat.u.r.day, March 9_.--Yesterday the men went off to the _Greyhound_--I do not think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before--and got back some time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after which they have only to go once more.