Three Years in Tristan da Cunha Part 6

CHAPTER XII

_Friday, August_ 10.--We had a gale last Wednesday. It was with some difficulty we got to the women's meeting which had been postponed the day before on account of the weather; we had to go by a circuitous route. Only three women came, and I was debating whether to have the meeting when I missed my spectacles. I felt sure they had been blown off by the wind.

Mrs. Repetto and Mrs. Hagan went off to search for them, and Ellen and I soon followed. It seemed rather a hopeless task as we had come by such a round-about way. I went home to see if I could possibly have left them behind; but no, they were not there. The loss of them was rather serious, as I had broken my pince-nez the day after landing. I felt sure they would be found if only we searched long enough, and presently I came across one half of them. By this time about fourteen people, men as well as women, were looking for them. The gale was terrific, and when the gusts came the only thing to do was to crouch down. It was a comical sight, and I wish I could have photographed it. I was caught hold of several times by one of the elder girls and held when the gusts came. I promised a pot of jam to the one who should find the other half of the spectacles. We had been out over an hour and were beginning to think we must leave further search till the morning when John Gla.s.s found it. It had been blown some distance from the spot where I had found the first half. Gla.s.s was going to take them home to try to mend them when he was called off to a poor cow that had fallen down. At his suggestion Graham took them to Repetto, who brought them down in the evening. He is going to mend my pince-nez with a watch spring. From what he told us I fear the loss of cattle must be close upon a hundred.

_Monday, August_ 13.--We have been building a most delightful castle in the air to-day. If a man-of-war comes we might go back in it to Cape Town and try to arrange with some enterprising person to come in a schooner and buy up the cattle here at a low price. What commissions we should have to execute for the people!

This has been a full day from morning till evening. I began laundry work at 7.30, made a yeast, then potato-cakes, superintended the planting of peach-slips against the house, paid a visit to Mrs. Henry Green, and entertained about seven visitors--several with requests to be attended to.

Graham was digging all the afternoon.

_Tuesday, August_ 14.--Little Edith Swain, one of the infants, has had a cough, and as her mother said she thought she had not warm enough clothing, I set to and knitted her a vest in two days. This morning Edith appeared alone, and pus.h.i.+ng past Ellen, who opened the door, came and put into my hand something tied up in a pocket-handkerchief, which something proved to be a pair of stockings. Her mother, who came in later, told me that Edith asked if she could not give Mrs. Barrow a present, so she gave her the pair of stockings to bring. She said to her mother, "Did you offer Mrs. Barrow a cup of tea when she came?" She is not a very bright child and cannot learn her ABC, though she learns by heart very nicely.

The Repetto's youngest child, Joe, who is not yet two, asked his father for a book the other day and marched off to school with it. He got across the brook without getting wet, and as he neared the school door was heard singing, "Onward, Christian Soldiers." His sister Martha soon dispatched him home, poor little fellow. Repetto came this afternoon with the pince-nez which he had mended. He stayed supper and gave us further instruction in netting.

_Wednesday, August 15_.--Today I sowed flower seeds; a performance which intensely interested the children who crowded round the front door. I used biscuit-tins for boxes, which William filled with soil. I have planted bulbs of a Mentone creeper, love-in-a-mist, heather, sweet peas and canna seeds. One does sadly miss the spring flowers. Afterwards I went down to the beach with Sophy and the Repetto girls to pick up wood. Rob carried the canvas bag which was rolled up, and it was amusing to see him careering after the sea-hens (skua-gulls) at a tremendous pace with the bag in his mouth. The girls picked up more wood than we could carry home.

We have had some more peach-slips brought, which we have planted under the shelter of the flax, and yesterday William brought more than a dozen apple trees and cuttings, and is going to bring some young fig trees. Thus we shall have quite an orchard, if they grow, but the "if" is a big one. The people do not seem to take any trouble with their fruit trees and hardly ever prune them. Perhaps they are disheartened on account of the rats.

Most of the orchards are a long way off in sheltered ravines round the island.

The men lead fairly busy lives. Last month they were occupied in drawing out manure in the quaint bullock wagons to their potato patches, which are about three miles off. It was no easy business as the bullocks were not up to the work owing to their starved condition. Each man possesses about three pairs of bullocks. This week they will begin planting potatoes, and some of the children will have to be away from school as their help will be needed.

This evening I made the small boys help to gather gra.s.s for the cattle, which we threw to them over the wall. It gave me great satisfaction to see them eating it, and a particularly lean one had quite a good feast. I try to feed them every day, and get the Repetto girls to help.

I feel a little elated as I have made some rather good bread.

There was a thunderstorm to-day. The weather is quite spring-like, the days are warm but the nights cold.

Ellen and I had such an evening yesterday. With much misgiving I determined to try to develop some films--my first attempt. The kitchen was the darkroom. We began operations soon after supper and did not get to bed till nearly midnight. The developing was done under great difficulties.

The candle had to be renewed two or three times, and I was left in total darkness at most critical moments. Notwithstanding, nine out of twelve have come out fairly well. I hope I shall manage better next time.

Repetto has been talking over the cattle question with some of the men, and telling them how much better off they would be if they limited the number of cattle and sheep to be owned by each family, say, to ten cattle and fifty sheep. He pointed out to them what a benefit it would be if a schooner could come yearly to trade. He thinks the cattle ought to sell at 3 a head. If possible Graham would go to the Cape with one of the men chosen by themselves.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE HENRY GREEN FAMILY AT WORK ON A POTATO PATCH]

_Friday, August_ 24.--Yesterday a s.h.i.+p came close in, but the sea was rough and the men were busy at their potato patches.

_Monday, August_ 27.--Sat.u.r.day was very bl.u.s.tery, and the rain came down in torrents. We kept thinking of the poor cattle. Several were sheltering under the wall at the bottom of the garden and looking so miserable. Ellen and I felt sure one or two would be gone by morning; and sure enough they were. Altogether twelve died that night. It really made me feel ill. The number of deaths has now reached to one hundred and eighty-four. Betty's cow that has several times clambered into the garden comes round sometimes in the middle of the night, clattering up the stone pathway to see if it can get in. It has just calved. The men are all very down-hearted, never having had such losses before. Henry Green has lost over forty. Repetto, who does not own many, has lost four, two bullocks and two cows, within a few days. The two cows he had lately kept in his garden. Graham told him that he thought the islanders had brought the loss upon themselves by keeping too many.

_Tuesday, August_ 28.--Yesterday the wind was bitterly cold, to-day we are in the lee and it is quite mild.

We had an early dinner as Graham had promised Rebekah to help her plant potatoes. He went off with spade on shoulder and did not get home till supper-time. Rebekah, accompanied by young Mrs. Swain, brought in some cooked lamb for his supper. Mrs. Swain said Tom was full of his praises because of the way he had worked; "he had done it better than any stranger, and real splendid."

We heard to-day that the number of lost cattle has reached two hundred. A very wet night.

_Wednesday, August_ 29.--To-day we have come across so many dead animals.

This morning close to the school a heifer, then this afternoon when Graham and I went out for a walk we saw near Miss Cotton's field close to the stream a poor dying ox. Graham went in search of some one and met Lavarello coming with a bag of gra.s.s, but the poor beast was too far gone to eat. I told Lavarello I hoped he would kill it, and he said he would fetch a knife. We went on to the sh.o.r.e; there a young heifer lay dying, it had fallen off the cliff. Further on we saw a dead donkey, and coming up the cliff I saw another dead heifer. It makes one feel very sad and very angry.

Ellen, who is anxious to do a little teaching, is taking on Monday and Wednesday afternoons the children who are most backward in reading.

_Sat.u.r.day, September_ 1.--Yesterday just across the watering we came upon a poor cow which was down. I got it some gra.s.s, and the Swain girls coming up helped to heave it up into a better position. Then old Mrs. Gla.s.s brought it some more food, which it ate ravenously. We fed it again in the afternoon. It belongs to the Lavarellos, who in the morning managed to get it home. This is the only case I know of a cow which was down getting better.

_Monday, September_ 3.--Betty's cow that we are so interested in has lost its calf. If more to eat had been given the mother I do not think this would have happened. The cow has been up to the house two or three times to-day, and I have fed her well each time. Poor thing, it is so hungry. We have had better weather the last few days, and are hoping for the animals'

sake this will be a fine month.

_Wednesday, September_ 5.--A most beautiful day. Graham and Repetto have been sowing carrots, onions, lettuce, and parsley. I have put in some flower seeds. I went several times to feed a poor bullock of Henry Green's. It was standing when we first saw it in the morning and was just able to get down to the stream to drink. I fed it frequently in the afternoon, but when I went again at five o'clock it would eat nothing and soon afterwards died.

The men were out fis.h.i.+ng and brought back seven sacks of fish.

_Monday, September 10_.--Yesterday the fowls had a field day in the flower-bed, and scratched up and ate a good many of the sweet peas.

This morning news was brought that "Molly," Betty's sick cow, was down.

Rebekah had found her early with her head caught under her body and too weak to free herself. She was got up, and we have been feeding her on and off all day. She stood in the field at the bottom of this garden until the evening, when to our great surprise she dragged herself to the front of the house where she has been so often fed. It is a wet rough night. I hope she will not succ.u.mb.

_Wednesday, September l2_.--Poor "Molly" died yesterday morning. It had poured hard all night, and she was found lying in Bob Green's yard. They got her up, but she fell, and was pulled up again. Then she ate a little, but again fell down panting, and nothing more could be done for her. I feel very indignant about it, for if she had had shelter and more food, both of which were possible, she would probably not have died. About two hundred and eighty cattle have now died, and each day is adding to the list.

After supper last night the Repettos came in. He was a little anxious about his leg, which he cut just above the knee when skinning an animal.

The cut was rather deep, but it did not bleed. Now there is a lump which seems to be gathering. I bathed it with Condy's fluid then and again next morning, and told him to rest for two or three days.

It has been a lovely day; we have had so few with right suns.h.i.+ne and no wind.

_Thursday, September 13_.--This morning I photographed the Sam Swain family at their special request. Swain wants to send a photograph of the family to his mother at the Cape. There was such an attiring of themselves beforehand, but all the picturesqueness was gone when they appeared, for they had discarded their handkerchiefs. Charlotte wanted to know if they should wear hats instead. I was thankful to be able to say it would not do as they would cast a shadow on their faces.

On Thursdays we have choir practice. It is amusing to see the harmonium being carried up in triumph by two of the elder boys, a bevy of little boys following at their heels, and one proud boy bearing some music. At the end of the practice I have been teaching the children prayers for morning and evening. I told them that as soon as they could say them off by heart they should have the printed card. Last Thursday and to-day the children came up in turn to say them. It took rather a long time, but nearly all have gained the card.

Every afternoon now Graham is very busy building up the wall of the field below our garden as he is anxious to grow a crop of hay. The men are very dubious about it, but he intends to try for the sake of the cows. Tom Rogers took a cow and calf in a boat to the other side of the island where there is plenty of pasture. When he went to look at them yesterday the cow was dead. It had probably been taken too late.

_Friday, September 14_.--Another full day. I have been three times to young Mrs. Rogers to poultice an abscess. I have also been to bathe Repetto's leg. Then old Mrs. Rogers came in for some arrowroot which I had promised her for her daughter, Mrs. Bob Green, who has a baby girl.

We had the sewing-cla.s.s as usual, and after it Ellen and I with a group of children went to gather wood on Big Beach and got back home soon after five o'clock. Graham, helped by Johnny Green, spent the afternoon in building the wall of the field. It is rather heavy work getting large stones up the bank. The other evening while Ellen and I were developing films he was soling a pair of shoes. It was his first attempt at boot-mending, and he has done it remarkably well.

This is the season for penguin eggs, and we have had a number given us. We find them a great help in the daily menu. Milk at present is not obtainable and potatoes are getting very scarce.

_Sat.u.r.day, September 15_.--This morning I photographed the Repetto and the Lavarello families, who want to send photographs to their relatives in Italy.

CHAPTER XIII

_Monday, September 17_.--We are taking a week's holiday, but to-day there has been little rest. I was up by 7.15 to do laundry work, then at 9.30 was with Mrs. Rogers dressing her wound. This afternoon I went to see Mrs.

Bob Green and her baby, also Miss Cotton. The latter seems to think these are the worst times she has known. The people have never been without milk before. The number of cattle that have died has now reached three hundred and fifteen. The cow Bob Green is trying to save is slung in a shed. It is so weak it can hardly walk. Little Charlie frightened it the other day and it fell on its side. On Sunday it fell across the brook, from which position it was extricated with the greatest difficulty. If it had not been discovered it would have died.

_Wednesday, September 19_.--We have had two wet ays and have been very busy in-doors. The people being short of tea and sugar, we thought that on the anniversary of our wedding-day we would give out some we brought with us. Notice having been given, they appeared en ma.s.se at the hour named, but without anything to take provisions away in, so the younger women went back to get tins. Graham gave out the sugar (2 lbs. each), and I the tea (1 lb. each); but only half this quant.i.ty was given to widows and unmarried women. The people were very pleased, and one or two came back with offerings. I should think that in the last ten days we have had one hundred eggs given us. Tom Rogers went to Sandy point and brought back over two hundred penguin eggs. The men when they have spare time hunt for young eaglets, of which they are now bringing in great quant.i.ties. These are sea-birds, and look like grey, fluffy b.a.l.l.s.

We have quite made up our minds to go to Cape Town to see about a schooner. Though there will be no cattle to sell there will be a great number of sheep. We shall take the first vessel we can get after October.

This morning it took me four hours to bake bread in a very hot kitchen.

_Thursday, September 20_.--This afternoon Ellen and I went to look at Mrs.

Hagan's grey cow, which is slowly pulling round. As we were watching it the poor creature tripped going in at the gate, and falling on its side had to be pulled up.