Two Years Among the Savages of New Guinea Part 15

Koepina frequently makes a raid on tribes in the adjoining districts and generally returns successful. The natives of this part speak the Motu language. I spent some time on sh.o.r.e and visited several of the villages.

The natives of Moapa, at the instigation of Koepina, have committed many murders, which in their opinion, is something to be proud of.

We then proceeded to Port Moresby, having taken seven days on the trip.

The distance from Samarai is 350 miles. Port Moresby is the headquarters of the London Missionary Society. The site of the mission station was selected by Messrs. Lawes and Macfarlane, the pioneer missionaries of New Guinea, in the year 1873. The Rev. W. G. Lawes had for many years been a missionary in the South Seas, and therefore was well fitted for the work. A few years later the Rev. James Chalmers joined the mission, and at the close of the year 1885 the Rev. Dr.

Macfarlane severed his connection with New Guinea and left for England, where he now resides. The mission has been established sixteen years, and taking into consideration the enormous difficulties of the undertaking, the result may be deemed satisfactory. Whether they have succeeded in making any real converts to Christianity is a question I prefer leaving open. Certain it is that in districts where their influence has extended, the danger from the hostile acts of the natives has been considerably lessened.

In the first years of its existence Port Moresby was very unhealthy, many of those engaged in the work of the mission falling victims to malarial fever. The health of the place has since improved, and at the present time it is one of the healthiest on the coast.

The harbour forms a large bay, at the head of which stands the Mission Station, consisting of numerous buildings: the dwelling-houses of the leading missionaries, school-houses, a large building in which the services are held, and two or three small houses. To the right of the Mission Station, on a prominent rise, is "Government House," the residence of Sir Wm. Macgregor.

On the east side of the bay, and near the entrance, are situated the various Government buildings--the Court House, the Colonial Secretary's Department, and beyond these a general store kept by Mr. Andrew Goldie, a lock-up under the charge of Messrs. Belford and Gleeson, and the dwelling-house of the Judge (Mr. Winter), in which also is the Government Printing Office, where the various official "Gazettes" are published under the superintendence of Mr. J. G. Allen, Government printer.

Below the "Mission Station" stands the native town, "Hanuabada," which contains about 400 inhabitants, and is built in the sea.

The climate of Port Moresby is very dry, and the soil poor. Nothing will grow there, not even yams, so that the natives suffer much from a scarcity of food. The women are very skilful manufacturers of pottery, tastefully ornamented and designed. At certain times of the year they take the pottery in their trading canoes far to the westward, where they exchange it for cargoes of sago.

The back country is very mountainous until the valley of the "Laroki"

is reached, when a decided change for the better is noticeable.

Instead of barrenness there is fertility. Good pasturage is found, and cultivation commences. The Laroki River is about 17 miles from Port Moresby. After crossing the "Laroki" the country again becomes mountainous and rugged, and is inhabited by numerous hill tribes, both fierce and warlike.

A month previous to my arrival in Port Moresby, viz., July 1st, 1889, Sir Wm. Macgregor had returned from his successful ascent of Mount Owen Stanley.

I saw him on board the S.S. _Merrie England_. He had altered somewhat.

He had lost two stone in weight and had a worn appearance; otherwise he was in good health.

As Sir Wm. Macgregor has penetrated further inland than any other white man, and has scaled the highest mountain in British New Guinea, the following abridged extract from his report of the journey will, no doubt, be interesting.

"I left Port Moresby on the 20th April, 1889, in my boat, manned with a native crew, accompanied by my staff, and proceeded along the coast to Manumanu. On the 22nd we entered one of the mouths of the Vanapa River, which opens into Galley Reach on its eastern side, about five miles from Manumanu. We got some seven or eight miles up the river the first day, having the tidal water for three or four miles; but beyond that point the river was swollen and muddy, and the current against us strong.

"On the 23rd we continued our course up the river for about seven miles. During the afternoon we began to approach the first low hills in the river's course, and had to ascend two rapids, the first we had met.

"On the 24th we had much difficulty in poling and dragging the boat up some rapids, the current being very strong, and the river, though falling, still deep. On this day we only accomplished four miles, in spite of our best exertions.

"On the 25th we continued our ascent, poling, pulling, or dragging the boat. We pa.s.sed a number of rapids and by night found ourselves with hills on all sides of us. We pa.s.sed a large rock on the right bank of the river, which seems to be quite exceptional in its formation in this part of the country. It is a grey stone, full of crystalline needles, like manganite.

"After we had pitched camp I went to examine a native-built suspension-bridge, which our hunting party had discovered up stream--a remarkable structure, occurring in such a locality and built by such a primitive people as the inland natives are in this district. At the spot where the bridge stands the river is narrowed by a rocky point that encroaches on the left bank from a steep hill immediately adjoining; advantage has been taken of this in building. The bridge, which is thus only about 70 yards long, is chiefly supported by a large banyan tree, which grows on the rock on the left bank, about 20 feet from the water's edge; it starts from this tree at an elevation of about 50 feet above the pool below, descends in midstream to about 12 or 15 feet from the water, and rises to about 20 feet on the right bank, where it is suspended to a tree not sufficiently large or strong to receive the whole of this end of the bridge, and is therefore supplemented by a post put into the ground, and this again is strengthened by a cross-bar to the live tree and fixed by stays extending backwards to trees behind. The material employed is rattan cane. Of these, fifteen are used to form supports, but as they have not all been long enough to cross the river, some of them have been joined by knotting. The floor of the bridge is formed of four of these canes, but as two appear to have been broken, the second pair have probably been laid down in effecting repairs. About two feet six inches from the floor there are two rattans on each side, and about two feet three inches above these again are three rattans on the lower, and four on the upper side. They are not plaited or twisted, but are kept in position by split cane worked from the floor to the middle and top rattans, which serves the double purpose of connecting the several strands and would probably prevent anyone from falling into the river should one stumble in crossing. A transverse section of the bridge would show it to be nearly V-shaped, but with the sides slightly rounded. The height of the V is about five feet, the width at the top about three feet six inches, and the distance of the middle strands from each other, about two feet. The top strands are kept apart by a cross-stick, the ends of which are tied to the top of each strand.

Suitable platform approaches have been built at the ends, and the whole structure is both strong and graceful. Five of our party crossed it at one time, and from all appearances many more could have done so.

"On the 26th the river had become narrower as we advanced, and we had to contend with strong rapids.

"On the 27th we found the rapids very strong, therefore we decided to discontinue the journey in the boat, and selected a suitable camp on the right bank of the river. This place became our princ.i.p.al depot for the expedition. By our estimate it is 40 miles from Manumanu by water, 35 miles of this being on the Vanapa itself. I sent Mr. Cameron, my private secretary, to Port Moresby to procure carriers, provisions, etc., whilst I remained in charge of the party.

"Everywhere there were traces of natives; none, however, were seen. The furthest distance inland from the camp reached by me, was between six and seven miles. Many of my party suffered from ill-health. All the hills in this district were of a slaty formation with thin veins of white quartz.

"About 2-1/2 miles from our camp we discovered, on the 30th April, a rocky height on the first mountain we traversed (Mount Gleeson), whence a very fine view of all the mountains of the interior, right up to the summit of the Owen Stanley Range, could be seen. It was named, and is known to us as "Jack's Rock," and is strongly recommended to future travellers as an excellent observing-point, although its alt.i.tude is only about 1,000 feet.

"On the 12th May Mr. Cameron arrived with 15 men, carrying supplies.

The whole of the next few days were spent in preparing the packs for the march inland, to commence next morning.

"We left camp on the 17th May. There marched out, all told, forty-two persons, four Europeans, including myself, George Belford (a Samoan half-caste, a man of excellent character and well acquainted with this country), five Polynesians and thirty-two Papuans.

"As the path had been cut for the first day's march, we covered about four miles before we camped in the afternoon at Exton Junction, where the Exton Creek enters the Vanapa River. We left Exton Junction early on the morning of the 18th, and had at the start some very steep ridges to cross. We pa.s.sed several creeks in slate and quartz formation which looked, especially one, very promising for gold. The 20th was memorable as being the first time our native carriers expressed a desire to go no farther. On this occasion Belford, by the exercise of patience, by threats and expostulations, managed to bring the whole company into camp on the north side of Mount Kowald, about 500 feet from the summit.

"We required the whole of the 21st to descend the north side of Mount Kowald, at the foot of which we camped, on the right bank of the Vanapa River. A small native village was seen on a hill five or six miles from us. Mount Kowald was of the usual slaty formation.

"On it we killed three snakes, a matter worthy of mention only because we saw none farther inland. Several people suffered here from fever.

Between one and two o'clock a raft was prepared, and by four o'clock we were all safely encamped on the other side of the river.

"We had only covered two and a quarter miles in two days, although those two days had been most fatiguing. On the 23rd we travelled about three miles, at first along the left bank of the Vanapa, and then up one of the spurs and crests of Mount Belford. As it was desirable to get further east before approaching the main range, it was deemed well to follow further along the crest of Mount Belford, whence it was hoped a spur might be found which might lead us to Mount Musgrave, and our march was therefore continued along the top of Mount Belford during the whole of the 24th. On the 25th we descended Mount Belford and camped in a wet, gloomy gorge at the foot of it. About three-quarters of a mile from our camp of the 25th we came next morning, at an alt.i.tude of 2,635 feet, to the Joseph River,[5] a fine mountain stream about 20 yards broad, running along the southern foot of Mount Musgrave.

[5] Evidently the San Joseph.--_Author._

"In the afternoon we camped on a spur leading us right up towards the crest of Mount Musgrave, at a height of 3,380 feet. At daylight next morning the temperature was 73. On the 27th we continued the ascent of the ridge, following the native path. Fortunately for us the crest we had reached turned round towards the west and north and led us towards the main crest of Mount Musgrave, which was reached on the next day's march. It was determined that we should proceed eastward along the crest of Mount Musgrave until nearly opposite Mount Victoria, and then look for a ridge on the north side of Mount Musgrave, leading down in the desired direction. On our way back to camp we met numbers of natives. We soon became on friendly terms with them and managed to obtain a supply of food. They are physically stronger than the coast men. They do not tattoo, neither do they wear nose and ear ornaments.

The nose is generally of the Semitic type. They always left our camp before nightfall.

"They are fond of, and will give food in exchange for, salt, beads and cutlery. Tobacco they do not prize greatly, as they grow very good tobacco themselves.

"On the 29th we were able to resume the ascent of the crest of Mount Musgrave, along which we proceeded about two miles on this day and camped at an alt.i.tude of 7,180 feet. The temperature was 70 at noon, but at night fell below 60.

"Mount Musgrave does not differ in formation from Mount Belford; but, somewhat to our surprise, we found it to be composed of slate and quartz right to the top. Our path was crossed at several places between 6,000 and 7,000 feet, by well-marked veins of white quartz.

"Finding that there was no prospect of meeting with any spur running towards Mount Victoria (the new name given to Mount Owen Stanley), we determined to descend on the north side of Mount Musgrave. My own party now consisted of Belford, two Polynesians and six Papuans. After a succession of steep cliffs and gorges, we, by ten o'clock, reached a clearing, and after great difficulty in descending the steep rocks at the foot of Mount Musgrave, we reached the Vanapa River at about noon, at the foot of Mount Knutsford. We had considerable difficulty in crossing the Vanapa, on account of the quant.i.ty of water and the rapidity of the current. Immediately on effecting the pa.s.sage we were at the foot of Mount Knutsford, the first mountain we touched connected directly with the Owen Stanley range.

"We ascended about 500 feet, and then camped. On the 2nd of June we continued our ascent. A temperature of 69 F. was marked before sunrise. We camped for the night at an alt.i.tude of 6,500 feet, where the temperature at 6 p.m. was 67.

"Next day, June 3rd, we started at 7.30 a.m., and by noon had travelled one mile, when we were completely enveloped in fog, temperature 64 F.

On the 5th of June we first came into contact, at an alt.i.tude of 9,000 feet, with an undergrowth of bamboo. At 2 p.m. on 6th of June we reached the summit of Mount Knutsford, 11,100 feet high. Here Alpine flowers and plants are met with. The quartz and slate formation extends to the top. The temperature at night and early morning was as low as 45 to 40.

"We were now left with six days' food, and there was no appearance of any more reaching us. It was not without some anxiety that a forward march was ordered on the morning of the 8th. We accomplished fully five miles in a northerly direction along the summit of Mount Knutsford, and camped on a small creek that divides it at its northern end from Mount Griffith. At 9 a.m. next day we crossed the Vanapa for the last time.

The alt.i.tude of this crossing was 10,130 feet, the temperature 59. On crossing we began the ascent of the central ridge of the Owen Stanley Range. Early in the afternoon we reached the top of the great ridge at the point named Winter Height, which has an alt.i.tude of 11,882 feet, and about 5 p.m. we camped on the lowest part of the great central ridge, forming the lowest part of the central portion of the Owen Stanley Range, to which has been given the name of d.i.c.kson Pa.s.s. Its height is 10,884 feet, and it divides Mount Douglas from Winter Height.

In our camp at d.i.c.kson Pa.s.s, the morning temperature before sunrise was 44, and at 8 a.m. 55. The forest here is mainly composed of cypress.

We pa.s.sed over the top of Mount Douglas, 11,796 feet, and had an opportunity of picking strawberries there. They were small, excellent in flavour, but not quite ripe. At 5 p.m. we pitched camp, after a march of about five or six miles, some four hours' march from the top of Mount Victoria, the name I have given to the highest crest of the great Owen Stanley Range.

"At about 11 a.m. of the 11th of June, I reached the top of the north-west peak of Mount Victoria, and I may mention that a few hundred feet from the top of the highest crest I saw the largest vein of quartz I have seen in the 'Possession,' about 15 inches thick. There are no trees on this mountain within 1,500 feet of the top, and but few bushes.

"We were camped two nights on Mount Victoria, the 11th and 12th of June, at an alt.i.tude of 12,452 feet, that is, about 670 feet from the top of the highest peaks. The temperature rose in the middle of the day to 70. In the morning the gra.s.s was quite white with frost until the rays of the sun reached it. Icicles were brought into the camp, the largest one being over an inch in diameter, and seven or eight inches long. Mount Victoria is, during this season at least, emphatically a dry mountain. The crest of Mount Victoria runs from south-east to north-west, and may be described as composed of six different peaks, but they might be divided differently by different observers. The north-west one and the south-east one are a few feet higher than any of the others. The distance between the two is from a mile to a mile and a quarter in a straight line. I ascended to the top of all the peaks, the central ones being most difficult of access, which I climbed only after tremendous exertion. Mount Victoria is far from being the isolated block it has been customary to represent it. It is simply the eastern end of the Owen Stanley Range, which runs without a break, as one continuous whole, from the south-east end of Mount Victoria until the range meets Mount Griffith and Mount Scratchley; the length of this part of the range is about 20 to 25 miles.

"Mr. Cameron's calculations and my observations make the height of Mount Victoria 13,121 feet, an estimate that comes very near to that given on maps and charts, 13,205.

"The north coast was for several hours in the forenoon plainly distinct from the top of Mount Victoria. This mountain is some 15 to 20 miles nearer to the south than to the north coast. The country lying between it and the north coast is far less mountainous than that between it and the south coast.

"Looking from the top of Mount Victoria, only two great mountains are seen between the Owen Stanley Range and the north coast; these two are Mount Gillies and Mount Parkes. They are probably from 7,000 to 8,000 feet high. A valley, some two or three miles long, lies between Mount Parkes on the north, and the ends of Mounts Scratchley and Douglas on the south; this valley widens out and separates Mount Victoria from Mount Parkes.

"Smoke was rising from many points in this valley, which is not less than 30 miles long and will average four or five broad. It appears to carry a considerable population. There is thus north of the Owen Stanley Range, and between it and the north coast, a great extent of comparatively flat country; and there is much more population there than on the south side. It was impossible to see which way the rivers ran. Mr. Belford left a powder-flask on the top of the north-west peak of Mount Victoria, containing a paper, on which he has written that I ascended the mountain on the 11th of June, 1889, and named it Mount Victoria. The return journey from the top of Mount Victoria to the coast was accomplished in twelve days."