The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa, in the Year 1805 Part 11

[Footnote: There is some mistake here; what Mr. Park calls 71, appears to be no more than 67; and even according to him, the total ought to be 141. The true amount is 67+70=137.]

May 12th.--Had all the a.s.ses loaded by day-break, and at sun-rise, having obtained the King's permission, we departed from Woolli. Shortly after, we pa.s.sed the town of Barraconda, where I stopped a few minutes to pay my respects to Jemaffoo Mamadoo, a very eminent Slatee.

[Footnote: Mentioned in Park's Travels, p. 31.]

We reached the village of Bambakoo at half past ten o'clock. Bought two a.s.ses, and likewise a bullock for the soldiers.

May 13th.--Departed from Bambakoo at sun-rise, and reached Kanipe, an irregular built village, about ten o'clock. The people of the village had heard that we were under the necessity of purchasing water at Madina; and to make sure of a similar market, the women had drawn all the water from the wells, and were standing in crowds, drawing up the water as fast as it collected. It was in vain that the soldiers attempted to come in for their share: the camp kettles were by no means so well adapted for drawing water as the women's calabashes. The soldiers therefore returned without water, having the laugh very much against them.

I received information that there was a pool of water about two miles south of the town; and in order to make the women desist, I mounted a man on each of the horses, and sent them away to the pool, to bring as much water as would boil our rice, and in the afternoon sent all the a.s.ses to be watered at the same place. In the evening some of the soldiers made another attempt to procure water from the large well near the town, and succeeded by the following stratagem. One of them having dropped his canteen into the well, as if by accident, his companions fastened a rope round him, and lowered him down to the bottom of the well, where he stood and filled all the camp kettles, to the great mortification of the women, who had been labouring and carrying water for the last twenty-four hours, in hopes of having their necks and heads decked with small amber and beads by the sale of it. Bought two goats for the soldiers.

May 14th.--Halted at _Kussai_, about four miles east of Kanipe. This is the same village as Seesekunda, but the inhabitants have changed its name. Here one of the soldiers, having collected some of the fruit of the Nitta trees, was eating them, when the chief man of the village came out in a great rage, and attempted to take them from him; but finding that impracticable, he drew his knife, and told us to put on our loads, and get away from the village. Finding that we only laughed at him, he became more quiet; and when I told him that we were unacquainted with so strange a restriction, but should be careful not to eat any of them in future; he said that the thing itself was not of great importance, if it had not been done in sight of the women. For, says he, this place has been frequently visited with famine from want of rain, and in these distressing times the fruit of the Nitta is all we have to trust to, and it may then be opened without harm; but in order to prevent the women and children from wasting this supply, a _toong_ is put upon the Nittas, until famine makes its appearance. The word toong is used to express any thing sealed up by magic.

Bought two a.s.ses. As we entered the Simbani woods from this town, Isaaco was very apprehensive that we might be attacked by some of the Bondou people, there being at this time a hot war between two brothers about the succession: and as the report had spread that a coffle of white men were going to the interior, every person immediately concluded that we were loaded with the richest merchandize to purchase slaves; and that whichever of the parties should gain possession of our wealth, he would likewise gain the ascendency over his opponent. On this account, gave orders to the men not to fire at any deer or game they might see in the woods; that every man must have his piece loaded and primed, and that the report of a musket, but more particularly of three or four, should be the signal to leave every thing and run towards the place.

May 15th.--Departed from Kussai. At the entrance of the woods, Isaaco laid a black ram across the road and cut its throat, having first said a long prayer over it. This he considered as very essential towards our success. The flesh of the animal was given to the slaves at Kussai, that they might pray in their hearts for our success.

The first five miles of our route was through a woody country; we then reached a level plain nearly dest.i.tute of wood. On this plain we observed some hundreds of a species of antelope of a dark colour with a white mouth; they are called by the natives _Da qui_, and are nearly as large as a bullock. At half past ten o'clock we arrived on the banks of the Gambia, and halted during the heat of the day under a large tree called _Teelee Corra_, the same under which I formerly stopped in my return from the interior.

[Footnote: Probably the tree mentioned in Park's Travels, p. 854.]

The Gambia here is about 100 yards across, and, contrary to what I expected, has a regular tide, rising four inches by the sh.o.r.e. It was low water this day at one o'clock. The river swarms with crocodiles. I counted at one time thirteen of them ranged along sh.o.r.e, and three hippopotami. The latter feed only during the night, and seldom leave the water during the day; they walk on the bottom of the river, and seldom shew more of themselves above water than their heads.

At half past three o'clock in the afternoon, we again set forward, and about a mile to the eastward ascended a hill, where we had a most enchanting prospect of the country to the westward; in point of distance it is the richest I ever saw. The course of the Gambia was easily distinguished by a range of dark green trees, which grew on its banks.

The course from Teelee Corra is represented in the following sketch.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

A mile and a half east of Prospect hill, is another on the north side of the road, from the top of which we had a charming view to the south. The course of the river is from the E.S.E.; no hills on the south side of it, the whole country being quite level. About ten miles E.S.E.; the river pa.s.ses near an elevated table land, which looks, like an old fortification. At sun-set reached a watering place called Faraba, but found no water.

While we were unloading the a.s.ses, John Walters, one of the soldiers, fell down in an epileptic fit, and expired in about an hour after. The Negroes belonging to our guide set about digging a well, having first lighted a fire to keep off the bees, which were swarming about the place in search of water. In a little time they found water in sufficient quant.i.ty to cook our suppers, and even supply the horses and a.s.ses in the course of the night.

Being apprehensive of an attack from the Bondou people, placed double sentries, and made every man sleep with his loaded musket under his head.

Lat.i.tude by mer. alt. of the moon, 14 38' 46" N.

About three o'clock buried John Walters, and in remembrance of him wish this place to be called _Walters's Well_.

May 16th.--Departed from the well as soon as day dawned, and reached the Neaulico at half past eight o'clock. This stream is nearly dry at this season, and only affords water in certain hollow places which abound in fish. Saw Isaaco's Negroes take several with their hands, and with wisps of gra.s.s used as a net to frighten the fish into a narrow s.p.a.ce. One of the fish was a new genus.

Saw in the bed of the river some Negroes roasting a great quant.i.ty of flesh on temporary wooden stages erected for the purpose, as represented in the following sketch.

[Ill.u.s.tration:]

This half roasting and smoaking makes the meat keep much longer than it would do without it. The flesh was part of a _Da qui_ which they found on the road; a lion had killed it during the night, and eat one leg of it.

At four o'clock P.M. departed from the Neaulico. At five, pa.s.sed the ruins of Mangelli, where I formerly slept, and at six o'clock halted for the night at Manjalli Tabba Cotta, the ruins of a village so called. The wood during this day's march is in general small, and the road is much interrupted with dry bamboos. Plenty of water at the resting place. After dark took out the telescope in order to observe an immersion of Jupiter's first satellite--

H. M. S.

The satellite immerged by watch 14 10 35 Rate + from London 0 5 48 Too slow by eclipse at Kayee 0 0 5 -------- Mean time by watch 14 16 28

Time by Nautical Almanack 14 16 51 Equation 0 3 58 -------- Mean time at Greenwich 14 12 53 14 12 53 -------- Watch too fast 0 3 35

Longitude by three sets of sights taken next morning in order to find the apparent time at the _place_ 13 9' 45" W.

It is difficult to account for such a difference in the rate of going of the watch in the course of one month; but the excessive heat and the motion of riding may perhaps have contributed to it; for I think my observation of the immersion was correct.

May 17th.--Left Manjalli Tabba Cotta, and after a fatiguing march of twelve miles, reached _Bray_, a watering place. Endeavoured to take the meridional alt.i.tude of the sun, by the back observation with Troughton's pocket s.e.xtant; and after carefully examining his rise and fall, with the intervals betwixt each observation, I was convinced that it can be done with great accuracy, requiring only a steady hand and proper attention. This was a great relief to me; I had been plagued watching the pa.s.sage of the fixed stars, and often fell asleep when they were in the meridian.

We left Bray at three o'clock, P.M. and carried with us as much water as we possibly could, intending to rest at Nillindingcorro till the moon rose; but there being no water, our guide continued our march to the river Nerico, which we reached at eight o'clock, all the people and a.s.ses very much fatigued. Face of the country during this day an open and level plain with bushes and Cibi trees, making the prospect rich, though not grand. Saw plenty of lions' excrement in the wood: they deposit it only in certain places, and like the cats, claw up the ground in order to cover it.

May 18th.--People employed all the morning in transporting the baggage and a.s.ses across the river; and as both men and a.s.ses were very much fatigued, I thought it best to halt on the east side of the river till the afternoon, as it would afford the soldiers an opportunity of was.h.i.+ng their clothes.

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Observed Mer. Alt. Sun 168 35 0 Diameter 0 32 0 --------- 1/2 169 7 0 --------- 84 33 30 Correct for refraction and parallax 4 --------- 84 33 26 --------- Zenith Distance 5 26 34 Declination 19 31 25 --------- Lat.i.tude 14 4 51

The breadth of the stream of the river Nerico is about sixty feet, the depth of water four feet, its velocity is two miles an hour. The heat of the stream at two o'clock 94 Fahrenheit.

Chapter II.

Arrival at Jallacotta--Maheena--Tambico--Bady; hostile conduct of the Faranba, or Chief, and its consequences--Reach Jeningalla --Iron-furnaces.--Mansafara--Attacked by wolves--Enter the Tenda Wilderness--Ruins and Plain of Doofroo--Attacked by a swarm of bees--Astronomical Observations--Arrival at Sibikillin--Shea trees--Badoo; presents made to the King--Tambacunda--Ba Deema River--Tabba Gee--Mambari--Julifunda; unfriendly conduct of its Chief; and presents sent to him and the King--Visit from the latter--Reach Eercella--Baniserile--Celebrate His Majesty's birthday--Mode of fluxing iron--Madina--Falema river--Satadoo--Sickness and death of the Carpenter--Arrival at Shrondo; commencement of the rainy season; and alarming sickness amongst the soldiers--Gold mines; process for procuring the gold--Dindikoo; gold pits--Cultivation--Arrival at Fankia.

CHAPTER II.

May 18th.--We left the Nerico about half past three o'clock, and arrived at Jallacotta, the first town of Tenda, at sun-set. From this place to Simbuni in Bondou, is two days travel.

May 19th.--Halted at Jallacotta in order to purchase corn and recruit the a.s.ses. Bought plenty of onions, which made our rice eat much better.

Town's people fis.h.i.+ng in the woods, where the pools being nearly dry, the fish are easily taken.

May 20.--Left Jallacotta, and about two miles to the east, pa.s.sed the village of Maheena, close to which are the ruins of another village of the same name. It would appear from the number of ruins, that the population of Tenda is much diminished. We reached Tendico or Tambico, about eight o'clock: we could not procure a bullock, the inhabitants having very few cattle. This village belongs to Jallacotta; and the Farbana of Jallacotta is subject to the King of Woolli. About half a mile from Tambico is a pretty large town called _Bady_, the chief of which takes the t.i.tle of Faranba, and is in a manner independent. He exacts very high duties from the coffles, to the extent of ten bars of gunpowder for each a.s.s-load.

We sent a messenger from Tambico to inform the Faranba of our arrival, and he sent his son in the evening with twenty-six men armed with musquets, and a great crowd of people, to receive what we had to give him. Sent him ten bars of amber by our guide; but as he refused to take it, went myself with five bars of coral, which he likewise refused.

Indeed I could easily perceive from the number of armed men, and the haughty manner in which they conducted themselves, that there was little prospect of settling matters in an amicable manner. I therefore tore a leaf from my pocket-book, and had written a note to Lieutenant Martyn to have the soldiers in readiness; when Mr. Anderson, hearing such a hubbub in the village, came to see what was the matter. I explained my doubts to him, and desired that the soldiers might have on their pouches and bayonets, and be ready for action at a moment's notice. I desired Isaaco to inform him that we had as yet found no difficulty in our journey; we had readily obtained the permission of the kings of Kataba and Woolli to pa.s.s through their kingdoms, and that if he would not allow us to pa.s.s, we had then only to return to Jallacotta, and endeavour to find another road; and with this (after a good many angry words had pa.s.sed between the Faranba's people and our guide) the palaver ended.

Matters were in this state, Faranba's son had gone over to Bady with the amber and coral, and we were preparing to return to Jallacotta early next morning, when about half past six o'clock some of Faranba's people seized our guide's horse, as the boy was watering it at the well, and carried it away. Isaaco went over to Bady to enquire the reason of this conduct; but instead of satisfying him on this point, they seized him, took his double barrelled gun and sword from him, tied him to a tree and flogged him; and having put his boy in irons, sent some people back to Tambico for another horse belonging to an old man that was travelling with us to Dentila. I now told two of Isaaco's Negroes, that if they would go with me into the village, and point out the Faranba's people (it being quite dark) who had come to take the old man's horse, I would make the soldiers seize them, and retain them as hostages for Isaaco. They went and told this to the two chief men in the village, but they would not permit it. They were able, they said, to defend their own rights, and would not allow the horse to be taken: so after an immense hubbub and wrangling, the business at last came to blows, and the Faranba's people were fairly kicked out of the village.

I was now a little puzzled how to act; Isaaco's wife and child sat crying with us under the tree, his Negroes were very much dejected, and seemed to consider the matter as quite hopeless. We could have gone in the night and burnt the town. By this we should have killed a great many innocent people, and most probably should not have recovered our guide. I therefore thought it most advisable (having consulted with Mr. Anderson and Lieutenant Martyn) to wait till morning; and then, if they persisted in detaining our guide, to attack them in open day; a measure which would be more decisive, and more likely to be attended with success than any night skirmishes. We accordingly placed double sentries during the night, and made every man sleep with his loaded musquet at hand. We likewise sent two people back to Jallacotta, to inform the Dooty of the treatment we had received from Faranba, though at one of the towns belonging to the King of Woolli.

May 21st.--Early in the morning our guide was liberated, and sent back to us; and about ten o'clock a number of Faranba's people came and told me that Faranba did not wish to quarrel with me, but could not think of allowing a coffle to pa.s.s without paying the customary tribute; but as I had refused to do that the evening before, if I would now carry over to Bady such articles as I meant to give him, every thing would be amicably settled. I told them that, after the treatment my guide had experienced, they could not expect that I would go to Bady alone; that if I went I would take twenty or thirty of my people with me. This seemed not so agreeable; and it was at last determined that the horse, &c. should be brought half way between the two villages, and delivered on receipt of the goods. I accordingly paid at different times goods to the amount of one hundred and six bars, being not quite one-third of what a coffle of Negroes would have paid. Faranba's people still kept our guide's gun and sword; alleging, that they were sent away in the night to Bisra, a town in the neighbourhood, but would be sent after us as soon as the person returned who had gone in quest of them. We accordingly departed from Tambico about three o'clock, and halted for the night at Jeningalla near Bufra, or Kabatenda, where I formerly slept; my former landlord brought me a large calabash of milk.

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