How France Built Her Cathedrals Part 52

[250] _Congres Archeologique_, 1909, p. 183; J. Ch. Roux, _Aigues-Mortes_ (Paris, Bloud et Cie, 1910); F. Em. di Pietro, _Histoire d'Aigues-Mortes_ (Paris, 1849); Marius Topin, _Aigues-Mortes_ (Nimes, 1865); Abbe H. Aigon, _Aigues-Mortes, ville de St. Louis_ (1908); H.

Havard, ed., _La France artistique et monumentale_, vol. 3, p. 145; Ch.

Lentheric, _Le littoral d'Aigues-Mortes au XIIIe et au XIVe siecles_ (Nimes, 1870); Vie. (Dom) et Vaissette (Dom), _Histoire de Languedoc_, vol. 7, p. 107, 3d ed.; Viollet-le-Duc, _Dictionnaire de l'architecture_, vol. 1, pp. 378, 390; vol. 9, p. 182.

[251] Maurice Barres, _Le jardin de Berenice_ (Paris, Charpentier, 1894).

[252] _Congres Archeologique_, 1897, p. 98; and 1909, p. 168, L. H.

Labande; J. Ch. Roux, _St. Gilles, sa legende, son abbaye, ses coutumes_ (Paris, Lemerre, 1910), 4to; J. Hubidos, _Histoire et decoration de l'eglise abbatiale de St. Gilles_ (Nimes, 1906); De Lasteyrie, _etude sur la sculpture francaise au moyen age_ (Paris, 1902); A. Marignan, _L'ecole de sculpture de Provence du XIIe au XIIIe siecle; Histoire litteraire de la France_, vol. 19, p. 268, Clement IV (Paris, 1838); Forel, _Voyage au pays des sculpteurs romans_ (Paris and Geneva, 1913), 2 vols; W. Voge, _Die Anfange des monumentalen Styls_.

[253] Edmond Rostand, "Le nom sur la maison," in _Le vol de la Ma.r.s.eillaise_ (Paris, Charpentier-Fasquelle, 1919).

[254] Les Saintes-Maries is a desolate village of the Camargue, on the sea by the "Rhone of St. Gilles," six miles to the west of the big Rhone. The crenelated fortress-church replaced, in the XII century, one destroyed by Saracens. Its eastern end rises in three stories; below, in the crypt, is the shrine of Sara, the dark handmaiden; above is the high altar; and crowning all is the shrine (placed in St. Michael's care) in which Mary Jacobi and Mary Salome are honored. Their chapel opens on the church over the entrance to the Ma.s.s chapel. The sculpture resembles that of St. Trophime, at Arles; perhaps the much-eroded marble lions came from some monument of antiquity. Twice a year there are popular pilgrimages to Les Saintes-Maries, that of May being frequented by the gypsies. Monseigneur d.u.c.h.esne, "La legende Sainte-Marie-Madeleine," in _Annales du Midi_, 1903, vol. 5; Georges de Manteyer, "Les legendes saintes de Provence," in _Melanges d'archeol. et d'hist.: ecole de Rome_, 1897, vol. 17; Faillon, _L'apostolat des Saintes-Maries en Provence_. (This latter gives the Midi loyalists' point of view.) (1848, 2 vols.)

[255] _Congres Archeologique_, 1897, pp. 95, 291, Tarascon; pp. 92, 333, Beaucaire; and 1909, p. 262, Tarascon. The church of St. Martha at Tarascon was dedicated in 1197, but reconstructed in the XIV century.

The south portal, with its curious little gallery, is of the XIII century. The honored relics are in the crypt in a heavy tomb of 1650.

The simpler sarcophagus that once held them now stands by the side wall.

All over France the defeat of paganism by Christian bishop or saint was symbolized by a dragon, and in the course of time the people often took the symbol for reality. The legend of St. Martha's Tarasque, or dragon, may be of this origin. Louis II d'Anjou began the castle of Tarascon, which was decorated by good King Rene. At Beaucaire, across the Rhone, is a tower built by St. Louis. The international fair of Beaucaire was famous. "Auca.s.sin was of Beaucaire, of a goodly castle there":

"'Tis of Auca.s.sin and Nicolette....

The song has charm, the tale has grace, And courtesy and good address.

No man is in such distress, Such suffering or weariness, Sick with ever such sickness, But he shall, if he hear this, Recover all his happiness, So sweet it is!"

Turn to that cante-fable of the XIII century, and live again the Midi's days of chivalry. Turn to that XIX-century masterpiece of satirical generous humor, _Tartarin de Tarascon_, more likely to survive than many a more pretentious tale, so gay it is.

F. W. Bourillon, ed. and tr. of _Auca.s.sin et Nicolette_ (Oxford, 1896).

[256] _Congres Archeologique_, 1876; and 1909, p. 213, L. H. Labande; L.

H. Labande, "etude historique et archeologique sur St. Trophime d'Arles," in _Bulletin Archeologique_, 1904, p. 459; J. de Louviere, "St. Trophime d'Arles," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1876, vol. 42, p. 741; Abbe Bernard, _La basilique primatiale de St. Trophime d'Arles_, 2 vols., 8vo; Roger Peyre, _Nimes, Arles, Orange_ (Collection, Villes d'art celebres), (Paris, H. Laurens, 1904); Georges de Manteyer, _La Province du Ie au XIIe siecle_ (1908); F. Beissier, _Le pays d'Arles_ (1889); Abbe Pougnet, _etude a.n.a.lytique sur l'architecture de la Provence au moyen age_ (1867); H. Revoil, _L'architecture romane du Midi de la France_ (Paris, Morel et Cie, 1873), 3 vols.; Martin, _L'art roman en France_ (Paris, 1910); Rebatu, _Antiquites d'Arles_ (1876); J.

B. de Rossi, "Le cimetiere des Arlescamps et sa basilique de St.

Pierre," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1875, vol. 41, p. 170; E. Leblant, _Les sarcophages chretien de la Gaule_ (1886); Alexis Forel, _Voyage au pays des sculpteurs romans_, vol. 1, chap. 1, "Arles-la-grecque" (Paris and Geneva, 1913), 2 vols.

[257] "Saint-Trophime, humide et ecrase, dit une louange irresistible a la solitude et s'offre comme un refuge contre la vie.... Arles, ou rien n'est vulgaire."--MAURICE BARReS, _Le jardin de Berenice_ (Paris, Charpentier, 1894).

[258] There is another cloister at Montmajour, four miles from Arles.

Its transverse ribs are caught along the wall on corbels carved with grotesques. Nothing at Montmajour pre-dates A.D. 1000. In the monastery church appeared (in the transept) some early diagonals; the crypt (middle of the XII century) is of a peculiar plan: a circular chapel in the middle of its apse with chapels radiating from the pa.s.sage round it.

From each arm of the transept projects an apse chapel. Under a hillock is a small shrine remade in the XIII century. In 1369 a tower of defense was added to the abbey. The curious chapel of the Holy Cross, in a meadow near by, is not of the time of its foundation, 1019, but a reconstruction of the XII century, probably intended for the chapel of a graveyard. Montmajour once rose from the sea marshes that for centuries came up to the gates of Arles. J. M. Trichaud, _Les ruines de l'abbaye de Montmajour-les-Arles_ (Arles, 1854); _Congres Archeologique_, 1876, p. 362; and 1909, p. 154; Chantelon (Dom), _Histoire de Montmajour_ (1890); L. Royer, _L'abbaye de Montmajour-les-Arles_ (Abbeville, Paillart, 1910).

[259] "Sur cette terre elegante, au dessin si precis et si pur, sous cette lumiere penetrante, sur ces champs rouges ou l'ovilier verse son ombre fine et grise, sur ces bords que la mer antique bat de sa flot court et rythme, subsistent des oeuvres et des souvenirs qui ne depareraient pas la Grece elle-meme, mere de toute beaute. Le Pont du Gard, la Maison Carree, les Arenes de Nimes et d'Arles, Saint Trophime, Montmajour, Les Saintes-Maries, Les Baux, le Chateau des Papes a Avignon, les remparts de Saint Louis a Aigues-Mortes, le Peyrou a Montpellier, le ca.n.a.l du Midi, sont les monuments de cette activite seculaire qui recueillit l'heritage de Rome, et l'entretint tout le long de cette vallee du Rhone qui, a ses deux extremites, comme deux phares, porte deux villes, deux republiques qui n'ont rien de superieur par l'antiquite, l'activite, et l'eclat: Lyon et Ma.r.s.eilles."'--GABRIEL HANOTAUX.

[260] L. Rostan, _Monographie du couvent de St. Maximin_, 1874; Abbe Albanes, _Le courent royal de St. Maximin_; Monseigneur d.u.c.h.esne, "La legende de Ste. Marie Madeleine," in _Annales du Midi_, 1893, vol. 5; L.

G. Pelissier, _La Provence_ (Regions de la France), (Paris, L. Cerf).

[261] _Rationale divinorum officiorum_, translated by Neale and Webb (Camden Society) as _The Symbolism of Churches and Church Ornament_ (Leedes, Green, 1843).

[262] His son, St. Louis d'Anjou, died archbishop of Toulouse, having resigned his heirss.h.i.+ps after captive years in Spain proved to him the futility of grandeur. Giotto painted him on the walls of Santa Croce, Florence. His chasuble, a masterpiece of embroidery, was preserved by the solid wardrobes of St. Maximin's XIV-century sacristy.

[263] L. H. Labande, "St. Sauveur d'Aix-en-Provence," in _Bulletin archeological du comite des travaux historiques et scientifiques_ (Paris, 1912), p. 289; Abbe E. F. Maurin, _Notice historique et description de l'eglise metropolitaine St. Sauveur d'Aix_ (Aix-en-Provence, 1837); Prosper de St. Paul, "La cathedrale d'Aix-en-Provence," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1875, vol. 41, p. 442; J.

Ch. Roux, _Aix-en-Provence_ (Paris, Bloud et Cie, 1907); L. Dimier, _Les primitifs francais_ (Collection, Les Grands Artistes), (Paris, H.

Laurens).

[264] _Congres Archeologique_, 1882; 1897, p. 113; and 1909, L. H.

Labande; Andre Hallays, _Avignon el le Comtat-Venaissin_ (Collection, Villes d'art celebres), (Paris, H. Laurens); F. Digonnet, _Le palais des papes d'Avignon_ (after R. P. Ehrle, S. J.), 1907; L. Duhamel, _Les origines du palais des papes d'Avignon_ (Tours, 1882); L. H. Labande, "L'eglise de N.-D.-des-Doms a Avignon," in _Bulletin Archeologique_, 1906; A. Penjon, _Avignon la ville, et le palais des papes_ (1905); Leon Pal.u.s.tre, "Les peintures du palais des papes a Avignon," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1874, vol. 40, p. 665; Eugene Muntz, "Les tombeaux des papes en France," in _Gazette des Beaux-Arts_, 1887, vol. 36, pp. 275, 367; _ibid._, "Les sources de l'histoire des arts dans la ville d'Avignon pendant le XIVe siecle," in _Bulletin Archeologique_, 1887, p. 249; Verlaque, _Jean XXII, sa vie, ses oeuvres_ (Paris, 1883); Robert Andre-Michel, "Les fresques de la garde-robe au palais des papes a Avignon," in _Gazette des Beaux-Arts_, 1914-16, vol. 56, p. 293. (This study of the frescoes, discovered in 1909, was the author's last work.

He fell in battle at Crouy-sur-Ourcq in 1914); Louis Guerard, R. P., _Les papes d'Avignon_ (Paris, Lecoffre, 1910); Jean Guiraud, _L'eglise et les origines de la Renaissance_ (chap. 2, on the Avignon popes).

(Paris, Lecoffre, 1902).

[265] While the popes ruled in Avignon, churches rose from end to end of the city. In St. Didier (XIV century) is the bas-relief N. D.-du-spasme made for King Rene in 1476 by Francisco Laurana, one of the earliest Renaissance sculptors to work in France. He made the tomb for King Rene's brother in Le Mans Cathedral. The Gothic-Renaissance facade (1512) of St. Pierre is of singular grace; the date of its carved doors is 1551. There is a XV-century pulpit, and a retablo (1461) by Antoine Le Moiturier, born in Avignon, who finished the celebrated tomb of Jean Sans Peur now in Dijon's Museum. _Congres Archeologique_, 1909, p. 17; A. Chaillot, _Les oeuvres d'art dans les eglises et chapelles d'Avignon_; G. Bayle, _Notes historiques sur l'eglise de St. Pierre d'Avignon_ (Avignon, 1899).

[266] _Congres Archeologique_, 1897, p. 280; and 1909, p. 144, Villeneuve-les-Avignon; Jules Formige, _Rapport sur la Chartreuse de Villeneuve-les-Avignon_ (Gard), (Paris, 1909); Robert Andre-Michel, "Le tombeau du Pope Innocent VI a Villeneuve-les-Avignon," in _Revue de l'art chretien_, 1911, p. 204.

[267] _Congres Archeologique_, 1907 and 1913; A. Kleinclausz, _La Bourgogne_ (Collection, Regions de la France), (Paris, L. Cerf, 1905); _ibid._, _Histoire de Bourgogne_ (Paris, 1909); Dom. Urbain Plancher, _Histoire generale de Bourgogne_ (1739-81), 4 vols.; Claude Courtepee, _Description du d.u.c.h.e de Bourgogne_ (1775-85); De Barente, _Histoire des ducs de Bourgogne de la maison de Valois_ (Paris, 1825), 12 vols.; Ernest Pet.i.t, _Histoire des ducs de Bourgogne de la race capetienne_ (Dijon, 1905), 9 vols.; A. de Caumont, "Rapport sur une excursion archeol. en Bourgogne," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1852, vol. 18, p. 225; J. Calmette et H. Drouot, _La Bourgogne_ (Collection, Provinces Francaises), (Paris, H. Laurens); A. Perrault-Dabot, _L'art en Bourgogne_ (1897); J. L. Bazin, "La Bourgogne sous les ducs de la maison de Valois, 1361-1478," in _Memoires de la Soc. eduenne_, 1901, vol. 29, p. 33; Taylor et Nodier, _Voyages pittoresques et romantiques dans l'ancienne France, La Bourgogne_ (Paris, Didot, 1863), 2 vols., folio; W. S. Purchon, "An architectural Tour in Central France and Burgundy,"

in _Journal of the Royal Inst.i.tute of British Architects_, 1913-14, 3d series, vol. 21, p. 557.

[268] From Luxeuil derived Jumieges, St. Wandrille, Fecamp, St. Malo, St. Valery, St. Bertin, Corbie, St. Riquier, Peronne, Lure, Rebais, Jouarre, Faremoutier, Remiremont, Dissentir, St. Gall, and Bobbio. St.

Columba.n.u.s was born in Leinster in 543, the year that St. Benedict died at Monte Ca.s.sino. It is said that there was something supernatural in his appearance. Because of his comeliness he embraced the monastic life to flee temptation, entering the abbey of Bangor, a center of letters in what is now Ulster. All his life Columba.n.u.s was a lover of the cla.s.sics; from his library at Bobbio was recovered Cicero's _De Republica_. At thirty came the call to missionize in Gaul. Ireland, on the outer verge of Europe, had escaped the Barbarian's wrecking so that her culture was intact. With twelve monks, among them his nephew, St. Gall (future founder of the noted Swiss abbey), Columba.n.u.s crossed to France. The king of Burgundy, a grandson of Clovis, gave him the region of Luxeuil, which the late invasions had turned into a desert. In twenty years Columba.n.u.s made it the center of spiritual life in Gaul. He was exiled in 610 because of his strictures on the evil living of Burgundy's rulers. After many wanderings he founded Bobbio, between Genoa and Milan, which abbey became another seat of learning. There he died in 615. Martin, _St. Columban_ (Collection, Les Saints), (Paris, Lecoffre, 1909); Healy, _Ireland's Ancient Schools and Scholars_ (Dublin, 1890); Ch. de Montalembert, _Monks of the West_ (translated, London, 1896); Dalgairns, _Apostles of Europe_ (London, 1876), vol. 1; Besse, _Les moines de l'ancienne France_ (Paris, 1906).

[269] "On peut dire que vers le Xe siecle, le genre humain en Europe, etait devenu fou. Du melange de la corruption romaine avec le ferocite des barbares qui avaient inonde l'empire, il etait enfin resulte un etat de choses que, heureus.e.m.e.nt peut-etre, on ne reverra plus. La ferocite et la debauche, l'anarchie et la pauvrete etaient dans tous les etats.

Jamais l'ignorance ne fut plus universelle. Le chaire pontificale etait opprimee, deshonoree, et sanglante."--JOSEPH DE MAISTRE.

[270] _Congres Archeologique_, 1899, p. 48; 1913, p. 65, Jean Virey; _Millenaire de Cluny_ (Macon, 1910), 2 vols.; Jean Virey, _L'architecture romane dans l'ancien diocese de Macon_ (Paris, 1892), 2 vols.; _ibid._, _L'abbaye de Cluny_ (Collection, Pet.i.tes Monographies), (Paris, H. Laurens); Chanoine L. Chaumont, _Histoire de Cluny_ (Paris, 1911); Migne, _Dictionnaire des abbayes_ (Paris, 1856); Ch. de Montalembert, _Monks of the West_ (trans. London, 1896); H. Pignot, _Histoire de l'ordre de Cluny depuis la fondation de l'abbaye jusqu'a la mort de Pierre le Venerable_ (Autun et Paris, 1868), 3 vols.; F. L.

Bruel, _Cluny_, 910-1910. _Alb.u.m historique et archeologique_ (Macon, 1910), 4to; Ponzet, in _Revue de l'art chretien_, 1912, on the capitals of Cluny's abbatial; David, _Grands abbayes de l'occident_ (Paris, 1909); Lecestre, _Abbayes en France_ (Paris, 1902); G. T. Rivoira, _Lombardic Architecture_, vol. 2, p. 104, Cluny; p. 112, Tournus. Tr. by G. McN. Rushforth (London and New York, 1910); Demimuid, _Pierre le Venerable et la vie monastique au XIIe siecle_ (Paris, 1895); A.

Penjon, _Cluny, la ville et l'abbaye_ (Cluny, 1884); _ibid._, "Abelard et Pierre le Venerable d'apres Dom Gervaise," in _Annales de l'Acad. de Macon_, 1910, p. 393; _Histoire litteraire de la France_, vol. 7, p.

318, "Le bienheureux Guillaume, abbe de St. Benigne"; p. 399, "Raoul Glaber"; p. 414, "St. Odilon" (Paris, 1746); vol. 9, p. 465, "St.

Hugues"; p. 526, "Abbe Jarenton" (Paris, 1750); vol. 14, p. 211, "Pierre le Venerable"; p. 129, "St. Bernard" (Paris, 1764).

[271] Dr. John Mason Neale, ed., _Rhythm of Bernard of Morlaix_ (London, 1858). Dr. Neale has here rendered his translation like the XII-century original, dactylic hexameters divided into three parts.

[272] "Ah! ce Cluny!... ce fut vraiment l'ideal du labeur divin, l'ideal reve! Ce fut, lui, qui realisa le couvent d'art, la maison du luxe pour Dieu."--J. K. HUYSMANS, _L'Oblat_ (Paris, Plon-Nourrit et Cie).

[273] Some of the French houses affiliated with Cluny were Vezelay, the Trinite at Vendome, the Trinite at Fecamp, St. Martin-des-Champs and St.

Germain-des-Pres at Paris, St. Denis, the Caen abbatials, St. Ouen at Rouen, Jumieges, St. Wandrille, St. Remi at Rheims, Notre Dame at Chalons-sur-Marne, St. Benigne at Dijon, Tournus, St. Maixent, St.

Savin, Ste. Foy at Conques, Moissac, St. Sernin at Toulouse, and St.

Eutrope at Saintes.

[274] The church of Notre Dame built in Cluny by St. Hugues was burned in 1233, and immediately reconstructed as Burgundian Gothic; the lower walls and some of the capitals are of St. Hugues' time. Consoles, sculptured with heads, such as those under the lantern, are frequent in the province, but a central tower is exceptional. In the XVIII century the narthex was destroyed. St. Marcel's church was rebuilt after a fire in 1159 by the abbot of Cluny, who was a great-nephew of William the Conqueror. The octagonal tower, capped by a XIII-century spire, is of exceptionally lovely proportions. _Congres Archeologique_, 1913, p. 68.

St. Hugues also founded the Charite-sur-Loire, whose church was dedicated by his pupil. Paschal II, in 1107, at which ceremony a.s.sisted Suger, then a monk at St. Denis. Only the transept and absidioles are of that time, for the choir, nave, and tower are Burgundian Romanesque of the second half of the XII century; the Lady chapel rose two centuries later. Once the abbatial was four hundred feet long, but a fire, in 1559, damaged it and only four bays of the nave remain. _Congres Archeologique_, 1913, p. 374, Louis Serbat; Andre Philippe, "Charite-sur-Loire," in _Bulletin Monumental_, 1905, vol. 69, p. 469.

[275] De Foville, _Pise et Lucques_ (Villes d'art celebres) (Paris, H.

Laurens).

[276] Helose as a girl, in the convent of Argenteuil, studied Greek, Latin, Hebrew, philosophy, and theology; the women of that age were as eager for learning as the men. In 1817 her body and that of Abelard were removed to the cemetery of Pere la Chaise at Paris. Le Roux de Lincy, _Les femmes celebres de l'ancienne France_ (Paris, Leroi, 1848), 2 vols.

For Abelard, see de Remusat (Paris, 1855) and E. Vacandard (Paris, 1881).

[277] _Congres Archeologique_, 1899; and 1913, p. 63, E.

Lefevre-Pontalis; Abbe Cucherat, _Monographie de la basilique du Sacre Coeur a Paray-le-Monial_, 1884; N. de Nicolai, _Generale description du Bourbonnais_.

[278] John Mason Neale, _Collected Hymns, Sequences, and Carols_ (London, Hodden & Stoughton, 1914), p. 199, a translation of the XII-century poem of Bernard de Morlaix.

[279] _Congres Archeologique_, 1899, p. 62; and 1907, p. 32, Joseph Dechelette; also p. 537; H. de Fonteray and A. de Charma.s.se, _Autun et ses monuments_ (1889); Abbe Devoncoux, _Description de l'eglise cathedrale d'Autun_ (1845); Claude Courtepee, _Description de la d.u.c.h.e de Bourgogne_, vol. 6; H. Havard, ed., _La France artistique et monumentale_, vol. 5, p. 49, L. Pate, on Autun; Paul Vitry, in _Revue Archeol._, 1899, p. 188; Montegut, _Souvenirs de Bourgogne_.