A Continuation of a Voyage to New Holland Part 7

BABAO BAY.

Wherefore we crowded all the sail we could to get to Babao before night, or at least to get sight of the sandy island at the entrance of the bay; but could not. So we plied all night; and the next morning entered the bay.

There being good ground all over this bay we anch.o.r.ed at 2 o'clock in 30 fathom water, soft oazy ground. And the morning after I sent my boat ash.o.r.e with the seine to fish. At noon she returned and brought enough for all the s.h.i.+p's company. They saw an Indian boat at a round rocky island about a mile from them.

On the 22nd I sent my boat ash.o.r.e again to fish: at noon she returned with a few fish, which served me and my officers. They caught one whiting, the first I had seen in these seas. Our people went over to the rocky island and there found several jars of turtle, and some hanging up a-drying, and some cloths; their boat was about a mile off, striking turtle. Our men left all as they found. In the afternoon a very large shark came under our stern; I never had seen any near so big before. I put a piece of meat on a hook for him but he went astern and returned no more. About midnight, the wind being pretty moderate, I weighed and stood into the bottom of the bay, and ran over nearer the south sh.o.r.e, where I thought to lie and water, and at convenient times get fish for our refreshment. The next morning I sent my pinnace with 2 hogsheads and 10 barrecoes for water; they returned at noon with the casks full of water; very thick and muddy, but sweet and good. We found variation 15 minutes west.

THE ISLAND ROTI.

This afternoon, finding that the breezes were set in here, and that it blew so hard that I could neither fish nor fill water without much difficulty and hazard of the boat; I resolved to be gone, having good quant.i.ty of water aboard. Accordingly at half an hour after 2 in the morning we weighed with the wind at east by south, and stood to sea. We coasted along by the island Roti which is high land, spotted with woods and savannahs. The trees appeared small and shrubby, and the savannahs dry and rusty. All the north side has sandy bays by the sea. We saw no houses nor plantations.

MORE ISLANDS THAN ARE COMMONLY LAID DOWN IN THE CHARTS. GREAT CURRENTS.

The next day we crowded all the sail we could to get to the west of all the isles before night but could not; for at 6 in the evening we saw land bearing south-west by west. For here are more islands than are laid down in any charts that I have seen. Wherefore I was obliged to make a more westerly course than I intended till I judged we might be clear of the land. And when we were so I could easily perceive by the s.h.i.+p's motion.

For till then, being under the lee of the sh.o.r.e, we had smooth water; but now we had a troubled sea which made us dance l.u.s.tily. This turbulent sea was occasioned in part by the current; which, setting out slanting against the wind, was by it raised into short c.o.c.kling seas. I did indeed expect a south-west current here but not so very strong as we found it.

On the 26th we continued to have a very strong current setting southwardly; but on what point exactly I know not. Our whole distance by log was but 82 miles, and our difference of lat.i.tude since yesterday noon by observation 100 miles, which is 18 miles more than the whole distance; and our course, allowing no leeway at all, was south 17 degrees west, which gives but 76 miles difference of lat.i.tude, 24 less than we found by observation. I did expect (as has been said) we might meet a great current setting to the south yesterday, because there is a constant current setting out from among those islands we pa.s.sed through between Timor and the isles to the west of it, and it is probable, in all the other openings between the islands, even from the east end of Java to the end of all that range that runs from thence, both to the east and west of Timor; but, being got so far out to sea as we were, though there may be a very great current, yet it does not seem probable to me that it should be of so great strength as we now found: for both currents and tides lose their force in the open sea where they have room to spread; and it is only in narrow places or near headlands that their force is chiefly felt.

Besides, in my opinion, it should here rather set to the west than south; being open to the narrow sea that divides New Holland from the range of islands before mentioned.

The 27th we found that in the last 24 hours we had gone 9 miles less south than the log gave: so that it is probable we were then out of the southern current which we felt so much before. We saw many tropic-birds about us. And found variation 1 degree 25 minutes west.

WHALES.

On June the 1st we saw several whales, the first we had at this time seen on the coast: but when we were here before we saw many; at which time we were nearer the sh.o.r.e than now. The variation now was 5 degrees 38 minutes west.

COAST OF NEW HOLLAND.

I designed to have made New Holland in about the lat.i.tude of 20 degrees, and steered courses by day to make it, but in the night could not be so bold; especially since we had sounding. This afternoon I steered in south-west till 6 o'clock; then, it blowing fresh and night coming on, I steered west-south-west till we had 40 fathom; and then stood west, which course carries alongsh.o.r.e. In the morning again from 6 to 12 I steered west-south-west to have made the land but, not seeing it, I judged we were to the west of it. Here is very good soundings on this coast. When we pa.s.sed this way to the eastward we had, near this lat.i.tude of 19 degrees 50 minutes 38 fathom, about 18 leagues from the land: but this time we saw not the land. The next morning I saw a great many scuttle-fish bones which was a sign that we were not far from the land.

Also a great many weeds continually floating by us.

We found the variation increase considerably as we went westward. For on the 3rd it was 6 degrees 10 minutes west; on the 4th, 6 degrees 20 minutes, and on the 6th, 7 degrees 20 minutes. That evening we saw some fowls like men-of-war-birds flying north-east, as I was told; for I did not see them, having been indisposed these 3 or 4 days.

THE TRYAL ROCKS.

On the 11th we found the variation 8 degrees 1 minute west; on the 12th, 6 degrees 0 minutes. I kept on my course to the westward till the 15th, and then altered it. My design was to seek for the Tryal Rocks; but, having been sick 5 or 6 days without any fresh provision or other good nourishment aboard, and seeing no likelihood of my recovery, I rather chose to go to some port in time than to beat here any longer; my people being very negligent when I was not upon deck myself; I found the winds variable, so that I might go any way, east, west, north, or south; wherefore it is probable I might have found the said rocks had not sickness prevented me; which discovery (whenever made) will be of great use to merchants trading to these parts.

THE COAST OF JAVA. PRINCES ISLE. STRAITS OF SUNDA. THWART-THE-WAY ISLAND.

From hence nothing material happened till we came upon the coast of Java.

On the 23rd we saw Princes Isle plain, and the mouth of the Straits of Sunda. By my computation the distance between Timor and Princes Isle is 14 degrees 22 minutes. The next day in the afternoon, being abreast of Crockadore Island, I steered away east-north-east for an island that lies near midway between Sumatra and Java but nearest the Java sh.o.r.e; which is by Englishmen called Thwart-the-way. We had but small winds till about 3 o'clock when it freshened, and I was in good hopes to pa.s.s through before day: but at 9 o'clock the wind fell and we got but little. I was then abreast of Thwart-the-way, which is a pretty high long island; but before 11 the wind turned, and presently afterward it fell calm. I was then about 2 leagues from the said island; and, having a strong current against us, before day we were driven astern 4 or 5 leagues. In the morning we had the wind at north-north-west; it looked black and the wind unsettled: so that I could not expect to get through. I therefore stood toward the Java sh.o.r.e, and at 10 anch.o.r.ed in 24 fathom water, black oazy ground, 3 leagues from the sh.o.r.e. I sounded in the night when it was calm, and had 54 fathom, coa.r.s.e sand and coral.

INDIAN PROAS, AND THEIR TRAFFIC.

In the afternoon before we had seen many proas; but none came off to us; and in the night we saw many fires ash.o.r.e. This day a large proa came aboard of us, and lay by our side an hour. There were only 4 men in her, all Javians, who spoke the Malayan language. They asked if we were English; I answered we were; and presently one of them came aboard and presented me with a small hen, some eggs and coconuts; for which I gave some beads and a small looking-gla.s.s, and some gla.s.s bottles. They also gave me some sugarcane, which I distributed to such of my men as were s...o...b..tic. They told me there were 3 English s.h.i.+ps at Batavia.

The 28th at 2 in the afternoon we anch.o.r.ed in 26 fathom water; presently it fell calm and began to rain very violently and so continued from 3 till 9 in the evening. At 1 in the morning we weighed with a fine land-wind at south-south-east; but presently, the wind coming about at east, we anch.o.r.ed; for we commonly found the current setting west. If at any time it turned it was so weak that it did us little good; and I did not think it safe to venture through without a pretty brisk leading gale; for the pa.s.sage is but narrow, and I knew not what dangers might be in the way, nor how the tide sets in the narrow, having not been this way these 28 years, and all my people wholly strangers: we had the opening fair before us.

Pa.s.sAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.

While we lay here 4 Malayan proas came from the sh.o.r.e, laden with coconuts, plantains, bananas, fowls, ducks, tobacco, sugar, etc. These were very welcome, and we purchased much refreshment of them. At 10 o'clock I dismissed all the boats, and weighed with the wind at north-west. At half an hour past 6 in the evening we anch.o.r.ed in 32 fathom water in a coa.r.s.e sort of oaze. We were now past the island Thwart-the-way, but had still one of the small islands to pa.s.s. The tide began to run strong to the west; which obliged me to anchor while I had soundings, for fear of being driven back again or on some unknown sand. I lay still all night. At 5 o'clock the next morning the tide began to slacken: at 6 I weighed with the wind at south-east by east, a handsome breeze. We just weathered the b.u.t.ton; and, sounding several times, had still between 30 and 40 fathom. When we were abreast of the b.u.t.ton, and about 2 leagues from the westermost point of Java, we had 34 fathom, small peppery sand. You may either come between this island and Java, or, if the wind is northerly, run out between the island Thwart-the-way and this last small island.

The wind for the most part being at east and east by south I was obliged to run over towards the Sumatra sh.o.r.e, sounding as I went, and had from 34 to 23 fathom. In the evening I sounded pretty quick, being got near the Sumatra sh.o.r.e; and, finding a current setting to the west between 8 and 9 o'clock, we anch.o.r.ed in 34 fathom. The tide set to the west from 7 in the evening to 7 this morning; and then, having a small gale at west-south-west, I weighed and stood over to the Java sh.o.r.e.

In the evening, having the wind between east-north-east and south-east by east, we could not keep off the Java sh.o.r.e. Wherefore I anch.o.r.ed in 27 fathom water, about a league and a half off sh.o.r.e. At the same time we saw a s.h.i.+p at anchor near the sh.o.r.e, about 2 mile to leeward of us. We found the tide setting to the westward, and presently after we anch.o.r.ed it fell calm. We lay still all night and saw many fires ash.o.r.e. At 5 the next morning, being July the 1st, we weighed and stood to the north for a seabreeze: at 10, the wind coming out, I tacked and had a fine brisk gale. The s.h.i.+p we saw at anchor weighed also and stood after us. While we pa.s.sed by Pulo Baby I kept sounding and had no less than 14 fathom. The other s.h.i.+p, coming after us with all the sail she could make, I shortened sail on purpose that she might overtake us but she did not. A little after 5 I anch.o.r.ed in 13 fathom good oazy ground. About 7 in the evening the s.h.i.+p that followed us pa.s.sed by close under our stern; she was a Dutch fly-boat; they told us they came directly from Holland, and had been in their pa.s.sage six months. It was now dark, and the Dutch s.h.i.+p anch.o.r.ed within a mile of us. I ordered to look out sharp in the morning; that so soon as the Dutchman began to move we might be ready to follow him; for I intended to make him my pilot. In the morning at half an hour after 5 we weighed, the Dutchman being under sail before; and we stood directly after him. At 8, having but little wind, I sent my boat aboard of him to see what news he had brought from Europe. Soon after we spied a s.h.i.+p coming from the east, plying on a wind to speak with us, and showing English colours. I made a signal for my boat, and presently bore away towards her; and, being pretty nigh, the commander and supercargo came aboard, supposing we had been the Tuscany galley which was expected then at Batavia. This was a country s.h.i.+p belonging to Fort St. George, having come out from Batavia the day before, and bound to Bencola. The commander told me that the Fleet frigate was at anchor in Batavia Road, but would not stay there long: he told me also that His Majesty's s.h.i.+ps commanded by Captain Warren were still in India, but he had been a great while from the coast and had not seen them. He gave me a chart of these straits from the b.u.t.ton and Cap to Batavia, and showed me the best way in thither. At 11 o'clock, it being calm, I anch.o.r.ed in 14 fathom good oazy ground.

ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA.

At 2 o'clock we weighed again; the Dutch s.h.i.+p being under sail before, standing close to Mansheters Island; but, finding he could not weather it, he tacked and stood off a little while, and then tacked again. In the meantime I stood pretty nigh the said island, sounding, but could not weather it. Then I tacked and stood off, and the Dutch stood in towards the island; and weathered it. I, being desirous to have room enough, stood off longer and then went about, having the Dutch s.h.i.+p 4 points under my lee. I kept after him; but as I came nearer the island I found a tide setting to the west, so that I could not weather it. Wherefore at 6 in the evening I anch.o.r.ed in 7 fathom oazy ground, about a mile from the island: the Dutch s.h.i.+p went about 2 miles further, and anch.o.r.ed also; and we both lay still all night. At 5 the next morning we weighed again, and the Dutch s.h.i.+p stood away between the island Cambusses and the main; but I could not follow because we had a land-wind. Wherefore I went without the Cambusses, and by noon we saw the s.h.i.+ps that lay at the careening island near Batavia. After the land-wind was spent, which we had at south-east and south-south-east, the seabreeze came up at east. Then we went about; and, the wind coming afterward at east-north-east, we had a large wind to run us into Batavia Road: and at 4 in the afternoon we anch.o.r.ed in 6 fathom soft oaze.

CHAPTER 6.

HOME VOYAGE AND LOSS OF s.h.i.+P.

THE AUTHOR CONTINUES IN BATAVIA ROAD TO REFIT, TO GET PROVISIONS.

We found in Batavia Road a great many s.h.i.+ps at anchor, most Dutch, and but one English s.h.i.+p named the Fleet frigate, commanded by one Merry. We rode a little without them all. Near the sh.o.r.e lay a stout China junk, and a great many small vessels, namely brigantines, sloops and Malayan proas in abundance. As soon as I anch.o.r.ed I sent my boat aboard the Fleet frigate with orders to make them strike their pennant, which was done soon after the boat went aboard. Then my clerk, whom I sent in the boat, went for the sh.o.r.e, as I had directed him, to see if the government would answer my salute: but it was now near night, and he had only time to speak with the s.h.i.+p-bander, who told him that the government would have answered my salute with the same number of guns if I had fired as soon as I anch.o.r.ed; but that now it was too late. In the evening my boat came aboard and the next morning I myself went ash.o.r.e, visited the Dutch general, and desired the privilege of buying such provision and stores as I now wanted; which he granted me.

I lay here till the 17th of October following, all which time we had very fair weather, some tornadoes excepted. In the meantime I supplied the carpenter with such stores as were necessary for refitting the s.h.i.+p; which proved more leaky after he had caulked her than she was before: so that I was obliged to careen her, for which purpose I hired vessels to take in our guns, ballast, provision and stores.

ENGLISH s.h.i.+PS THEN IN THE ROAD.

The English s.h.i.+ps that arrived here from England were first the Liampo, commanded by Captain Monk, bound for China; next the Panther commanded by Captain Robinson; then the Mancel frigate, commanded by Captain Clerk.

All these brought good tidings from England. Most of them had been unfortunate in their officers; especially Captain Robinson, who said that some of them had been conspiring to ruin him and his voyage. There came in also several English country vessels; first a sloop from Benjarr, commanded by one Russel, bound to Bengal, next the Monsoon, belonging to Bengal: she had been at Malacca at the same time that His Majesty's s.h.i.+p the Harwich was there: afterwards came in also another small s.h.i.+p from Bengal.

While we stayed here all the forenamed English s.h.i.+ps sailed hence; the 2 Bengal s.h.i.+ps excepted. Many Dutch s.h.i.+ps also came in here, and departed again before us. We had several reports concerning our men-of-war in India, and much talk concerning rovers who had committed several spoils upon the coast and in the Straits of Malacca. I did not hear of any s.h.i.+ps sent out to quash them. At my first coming in I was told that 2 s.h.i.+ps had been sent from Amboina in quest of me; which was lately confirmed by one of the skippers, whom I by accident met with here. He told me they had 3 protests against me; that they came to Pulo Sabuda on the coast of New Guinea 28 days after my departure thence, and went as far as Schouten's Island and, hearing no further news of me, returned. Something likewise to this purpose Mr. Merry, commander of the Fleet frigate, told me at my first arrival here; and that the general at Batavia had a copy of my commission and instructions; but I looked upon it as a very improbable thing.

While we lay here the Dutch held several consultations about sending some s.h.i.+ps for Europe sooner than ordinary: at last the 16th of October was agreed upon for the day of sailing, which is 2 months sooner than usual.

They lay ready 2 or 3 days before, and went out on the 10th. Their names were the Ostresteen, bound to Zealand; the Vanheusen, for Enchiehoust; and the 3 Crowns, for Amsterdam, commanded by skipper Jacob Uncright, who was commodore over all the rest. I had by this time finished my business here, namely fitted the s.h.i.+p, recruited myself with provision, filled all my water; and, the time of the year to be going for Europe being now at hand, I prepared to be gone also.

DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA.

Accordingly on the 17th of October, at half an hour after 6 in the morning, I weighed anchor from Batavia, having a good land-wind at south, and fair weather: and by the 19th at noon came up with the 3 Dutch s.h.i.+ps before mentioned. The 29th of November in the morning we saw a small hawk flying about the s.h.i.+p till she was quite tired. Then she rested on the mizzen-topsail-yard, where we caught her. It is probable she was blown off from Madagascar by the violent northerly winds; that being the nighest land to us, though distance near 150 leagues.

1701.

TOUCH AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

The 30th December we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope and departed again on the 11th of January, 1701. About the end of the month we saw abundance of weeds or blubber swim by us, for I cannot determine which. It was all of one shape and colour. As they floated on the water they seemed to be of the breadth of the palm of a man's hand, spread out round into many branches about the bigness of a man's finger. They had in the middle a little k.n.o.b, no bigger than the top of a man's thumb. They were of a smoke-colour; and the branches, by their pliantness in the water, seemed to be more simple than jellies, I have not seen the like before.

AND AT ST. HELENA.

The 2nd of February we anch.o.r.ed in St. Helena Road and set sail again from thence on the 13th.

ARRIVAL AT THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION. A LEAK SPRUNG.

On the 21st we made the island of Ascension and stood in towards it. The 22nd between 8 and 9 o'clock we sprung a leak which increased so that the chain-pump could not keep the s.h.i.+p free. Whereupon I set the hand-pump to work also, and by 10 o'clock sucked her: then wore the s.h.i.+p, and stood to the southward to try if that would ease her; and then the chain-pump just kept her free. At 5 the next morning we made sail and stood in for the bay; and at 9 anch.o.r.ed in 10 and a half fathom, sandy ground. The south point bore south-south-west distance 2 miles, and the north point of the bay north-east half north, distance 2 miles. As soon as we anch.o.r.ed I ordered the gunner to clear his powder-room that we might there search for the leak and endeavour to stop it within board if possible; for we could not heel the s.h.i.+p so low, it being within 4 streaks of the keel; neither was there any convenient place to haul her ash.o.r.e. I ordered the boatswain to a.s.sist the gunner; and by 10 o'clock the powder-room was clear. The carpenter's mate, gunner, and boatswain went down; and soon after I followed them myself and asked them whether they could come at the leak: they said they believed they might, but cutting the ceiling; I told the carpenter's mate (who was the only person in the s.h.i.+p that understood anything of carpenter's work) that if he thought he could come at the leak by cutting the ceiling without weakening the s.h.i.+p he might do it, for he had stopped one leak so before; which though not so big as this, yet, having seen them both, I thought he might as well do this as the other. Wherefore I left him to do his best. The ceiling being cut, they could not come at the leak; for it was against one of the foot-hook-timbers which the carpenter's mate said he must first cut before it could be stopped. I went down again to see it, and found the water to come in very violently. I told them I never had known any such thing as cutting timbers to stop leaks; but if they who ought to be best judges in such cases thought they could do any good I bid them use their utmost care and diligence, promising the carpenter's mate that I would always be a friend to him if he could and would stop it: he said by 4 o'clock in the afternoon he would make all well, it being then about 11 in the forenoon. In the afternoon my men were all employed, pumping with both pumps; except such as a.s.sisted the carpenter's mate. About one in the afternoon I went down again and the carpenter's mate was cutting the after-part of the timber over the leak. Some said it was best to cut the timber away at once; I bid them hold their tongue and let the carpenter's mate alone; for he knew best and I hoped he would do his utmost to stop the leak. I desired him to get everything ready for stopping the violence of the water, before he cut any further; for fear it should overpower us at once. I had already ordered the carpenter to bring all the oak.u.m he had, and the boatswain to bring all the waste cloths to stuff in upon occasion; and had for the same purpose sent down my own bedclothes. The carpenter's mate said he should want short stanchions to be placed so that the upper end should touch the deck, and the under-part rest on what was laid over the leak; and presently took a length for them. I asked the master-carpenter what he thought best to be done: he replied till the leak was all open, he could not tell. Then he went away to make a stanchion, but it was too long: I ordered him to make many of several lengths, that we might not want of any size. So once more desiring the carpenter's mate to use his utmost endeavours I went up, leaving the boatswain and some others there. About 5 o'clock the boatswain came to me and told me the leak was increased, and that it was impossible to keep the s.h.i.+p above water; when on the contrary I expected to have had the news of the leak's being stopped. I presently went down and found the timber cut away, but nothing in readiness to stop the force of the water from coming in. I asked them why they would cut the timber before they had got all things in readiness: the carpenter's mate answered they could do nothing till the timber was cut that he might take the dimensions of the place; and that there was a caulk which he had lined out, preparing by the carpenter's boy. I ordered them in the meantime to stop in oak.u.m, and some pieces of beef; which accordingly was done, but all to little purpose: for now the water gashed in with such violence, notwithstanding all our endeavours to check it, that it flew in over the ceiling; and for want of pa.s.sage out of the room overflowed it above 2 foot deep. I ordered the bulkhead be cut open, to give pa.s.sage to the water that it might drain out of the room; and withal ordered to clear away abaft the bulkhead, that we might bail: so now we had both pumps going and as many bailing as could; and by this means the water began to decrease; which gave me some hope of saving the s.h.i.+p. I asked the carpenter's mate what he thought of it; he said "Fear not; for by 10 o'clock at night I'll engage to stop the leak." I went from him with a heavy heart; but, putting a good countenance upon the matter, encouraged my men, who pumped and bailed very briskly; and when I saw occasion I gave them some drams to comfort them. About 11 o'clock at night the boatswain came to me and told me that the leak still increased; and that the plank was so rotten it broke away like dirt; and that now it was impossible to save the s.h.i.+p; for they could not come at the leak because the water in the room was got above it. The rest of the night we spent in pumping and bailing. I worked myself to encourage my men, who were very diligent; but the water still increased, and we now thought of nothing but saving our lives. Wherefore I hoisted out the boat that, if the s.h.i.+p should sink, yet we might be saved: and in the morning we weighed our anchor and warped in nearer the sh.o.r.e; yet did but little good.

WHICH BEING IMPOSSIBLE TO BE STOPPED, THE s.h.i.+P IS LOST, BUT THE MEN SAVED.