The South of France-East Half Part 26

[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN.]

_Toulon Omnibuses._--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are to +Hyeres+ (p. 133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a stream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S.

side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The road eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence commanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +La Valette+, pop. 1700, is 3 m. E. from Toulon and 7 W. from Hyeres by the omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft., in about 2 hours. "From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all directions. I have sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet bold indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon." --_George Sand._ A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite the Hotel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves.

The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste.

Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the Place d'Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of it is seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste.

Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village a little to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke.

[Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyeres]

[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER.]

The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3 m. E., behind Fort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours Lafayette.

_Diligence Drives._--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19 m. N. by diligence from the Place d'Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2 frs. (see map, p. 117).

The diligence, after pa.s.sing through La Valette, Farlede 4 m., and Sollies-Ville, arrives at Sollies-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and 10 m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where pa.s.sengers from Hyeres can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles pa.s.ses by the same way, but at an earlier hour. From Sollies-Pont commences the beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Sollies-Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12 m. from Toulon, is Belgentier (p.r.o.nounced Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after pa.s.sing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best headquarters in the valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent of the Gapeau, 3 m. N. from Belgentier, 8 m. N. from Sollies-Pont, 6 m. E.

from Signes, 4 m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp, 5 m. S. from Gareoules, and 7 m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map, p. 123).

[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX.]

The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the words "Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of sinners, pray for us." On the fourth side "June 1870." Eastward is a great circular ma.s.s of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern.

Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively stony.

Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian Monastery of Montrieux (p.r.o.nounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft.

above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1 m. to a bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased, along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Gren.o.ble. The Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps and feeds by himself. Both affirm: "Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes d'entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le prophete, ni le juge, ni l'hote de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni meme le premier modele sorti de ses mains, n'ont pu echapper aux caresses ou aux tromperies des femmes." A nearer but very stony path, commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent.

Through Meounes pa.s.s the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Gareoules, and the Toulon coach to Gareoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.)

[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIeRES.]

+Toulon to Collobrieres.+--From the Place d'Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrieres, 25 m. N.E. by E., pa.s.sing through La Valette 3 m., La Garde with its castle 5 m., and +La Crau+ 7 m. _Inn:_ H. de France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyeres and La Crau.

From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrieres, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2 frs.; time, 4 hrs. Excursionists from Hyeres should await the diligence at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 P.M.; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station, and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for Collobrieres, pa.s.sing through Pierrefeu (p. 142).

From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyeres with water, is crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the princ.i.p.al affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop.

4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley of the Real-Collobrier to +Collobrieres+, pop. 3600, on an eminence rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the princ.i.p.al street, near the Post and the Hotel de Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the princ.i.p.al industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured.

A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.

[Headnote: ISLES D'OR. PORQUEROLLES.]

+The Islands of Hyeres, or the Iles d'Or.+

Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare 2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins of Hyeres to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros.

The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the ma.s.sive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyeres is afterwards seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the steamer sails closely along the southern sh.o.r.e of the peninsula of Giens (see p. 140, and map, p. 123).

Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingita.n.u.s, Alkanna lutea, Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus...o...b..ensis.

The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N.

side of the island, exactly opposite Hyeres, and 9 m. from Les Salins.

The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor alongside. In the "Place," quite close to the pier, are the church, the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two inns, of which the H. du Progres is the larger of the two. Above the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.

There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. coast westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N.

coast eastward the +Chemin des Medes+, and the road up the centre of the island, from N. to S., the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road commences at the N.W. corner of the "Place" and terminates at the lighthouse on Cap d'Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210 ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-cla.s.s, is ascended by 70 steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.

The first road right from the N.W. corner of the "Place" is the Chemin du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie, a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea.

The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Medes, traverses the most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it pa.s.ses round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaph.o.r.e or signal-station, commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyeres, and of the coast to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Medes terminates at a farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Medes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft. high.

[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT.]

+Port-Cros.+--11 m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12 m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor's house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2 m.

from S.W. to N.E., and 1 m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres.

The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fis.h.i.+ng may be had at all times.

About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1 from N. to S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea.

Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.

+Toulon to Hyeres.+

+Toulon to Hyeres.+--Pa.s.sengers at Toulon for Hyeres, 11 m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyeres, 13 miles by rail from Toulon.

[Headnote: HOTELS.]

HYeRES,

pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the nearest to England, and only 18 hours from Paris. It is not so gay as Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.

The hotel omnibuses await pa.s.sengers at the station. The station is m.

S. from Hyeres, and m. N. from the Hermitage.

_Hotels._--At the west of the town are the Hotel des Palmiers, below the Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d'Or, with garden off the main road; the H. Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d'Or. These three are first-cla.s.s houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs., including bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea in the morning. Next the Iles d'Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the main street are the Amba.s.sadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12 frs., frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At the east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-cla.s.s house, the H. Iles d'Hyeres, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, is the Mediterranee, third-cla.s.s. The princ.i.p.al hotel on the east side of Hyeres is the H. Orient, 10 to 13 frs., a comfortable and old-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, and off the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Sejour, from 12 to 15 frs.

Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. des etrangers, 10 to 13 frs., in a sunny situation. About 1 m. S. from Hyeres, near the Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmest and most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hotel and Pension de l'Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs., retired and comfortable, and frequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest of pines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with those of Hyeres. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnished apartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French and an English bank. Both exchange money. In the same "Place" is the Temple Protestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal chapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west end of the town.

There are several clubs; the best are the Siecle and the Progres, which take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations on the Riviera, all the first-cla.s.s clubs or "cercles" have large gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.

_Cab fares._--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2 horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.

[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES.]

_Drives._--A 3 to 4 hours' drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand.

The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day's excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, Sollies-Pont (a railway station), and Belgentier (p.r.o.nounced Belgensier). (For description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back.

The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Bregancon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, pa.s.sing by Les Vieux Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St.

Tropez road, pa.s.sing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyeres) amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La Plage Largentiere, in which is situated the Chateau de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7 m. E. from Hyeres). A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the chateaux of Leoubes (11 m.) and Bregancon; and, on the western point of Cap Benat, Fort Bregancon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the Vallee de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road pa.s.ses by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as some parts of the roads are not good.